JP2022023593A - Woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide a woven fabric that has high air permeability and causes less down leakage.SOLUTION: A down-proof fabric has a long fiber yarn with fineness of 66 dtex or less. Air permeability is 1.0 cc/cm2 sec or higher and 50 cc/cm2 sec or less. The down-proof fabric is evaluated as acceptable or good based on determination method of EN13186 in a down leakage test based on EN12132-1.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 3

Description

The present invention relates to a down proof woven fabric that can be preferably used for feather products such as outdoor clothing such as down jackets.

Down feathers, sleeping bags, and other down feathers that use feathers are lightweight and have high heat retention. High-density fabrics are used for the sides of such products so that feathers do not leak to the outside.

As a technique for producing a high-density woven fabric suitable for the side of a feather product, for example, Patent Document 1 proposes a woven fabric having high tear strength and excellent waterproof performance despite being thin and light. This woven fabric is a high-density woven fabric in which long-fiber threads having a total fineness of 120 denier or less are arranged on the warps and wefts, respectively, and has the cross-sectional overlap of the warps and wefts constituting the woven fabric. When the surface of the woven fabric is viewed from directly above, the warp and weft are designed to have a high density so that adjacent threads overlap each other at the top and bottom, so that moisture permeability and waterproof performance and downproof performance are achieved. To get.

Further, in Patent Document 2, as a woven fabric having excellent thinness, lightness, low air permeability and high tear strength, both the tear strength in the warp cutting direction and the tear strength in the weft cutting direction by the Pendulum method are 10 to 10 to 2. A woven fabric having a grain size of 50 G / m ² or less and an air permeability of 1.5 cm ³ / cm ² · s or less has been proposed.

International Publication No. 1994/021848 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2005-048298

However, in a woven fabric such as Patent Document 1, the density is increased so that there are overlapping portions in the adjacent threads, and the air permeability is suppressed to be very low. There was a problem that the stuffy feeling became strong at the time of use and there was a problem that the texture of the woven fabric became hard. Further, the woven fabric of Patent Document 2 is a woven fabric that is thin and has a very soft texture, but the woven fabric also has a very low air permeability in order to have a downproof property.

As described above, woven fabrics for down proofing are designed to keep the air permeability of the fabric very low in order to prevent feathers from leaking. However, as an adverse effect, there is a problem that the inside of clothes becomes extremely stuffy when worn for a long time during exercise such as mountain climbing. In addition, since it is difficult for the air inside the clothes to escape, it takes a lot of time and effort to remove the air from the down wear, fold it into small pieces, and store it in a backpack or the like.

The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric having high air permeability and less likely to cause down leakage.

As a result of diligent studies on whether or not a woven fabric that maintains down proofness can be produced without making the woven fabric so dense that the yarns overlap with each other, the size of the weaving crimps of the warp and weft is the down proof of the woven fabric. I noticed that it has a great effect on sex. In other words, by enlarging the weaving crimps of both the warp and weft, the warp and weft are greatly curved when the tip of the down or feather feather branch enters the inside of the woven fabric along the thread of the woven fabric. It has been found that the tip of the feather branch of the feather does not easily penetrate into the deep part of the woven fabric and the feather can be prevented from penetrating the woven fabric.

The present invention has the following configuration in order to solve the above problems.
[1] A down proof woven fabric composed of long fiber threads having a fineness of 66 dtex or less, having a breathability of 1.0 cc / cm ² · sec or more and 50 cc / cm ² · sec or less, and according to EN12132-1. Based on the down leakage test, the woven fabric is characterized in that the evaluation based on the determination method of EN13186 is acceptable or good.
[2] In a cross section perpendicular to at least one of the warp and weft in the longitudinal direction, the yarn having the higher single yarn fineness among the warp and weft and the yarn adjacent to the yarn are expressed by the following formula (2). There is a gap between the yarn that satisfies 1) and has the higher single yarn fineness among the warp and weft and the yarn adjacent to the yarn, and is arranged on both sides of the gap. The woven fabric according to [1], wherein the ratio between the average value of the maximum diameters of the single fibers of each of the yarns and the length of the gap is the same as that of the following formula (2).
0 <L ₁ / L ₀ ≤ 1 (1)
(In the formula, L ₀ indicates the maximum thickness of the thread in the thickness direction of the woven fabric, and L ₁ is the overlapping portion of the thread in the thickness direction of the woven fabric and the thread adjacent to the thread. Indicates the length of the thickness of.)
1 <W ₀ / W ₁ ≤ 60 (2)
(In the formula, W ₀ indicates the average value of the maximum diameters of the single fibers of the threads arranged on both sides of the gap, and W ₁ indicates the length of the gap.)
[3] The woven fabric according to [1], wherein the warp and weft each have threads having a weaving crimp coefficient of 1.3 or more and 10.0 or less calculated by the following formula (3).
Woven crimp coefficient = R ₀ / R ₁ (3)
(In the formula, R ₀ indicates the height from the upper end to the lower end of the yarn at the bent portion of the yarn in the thickness direction of the woven fabric, and R ₁ indicates the bending of the yarn in the thickness direction of the woven fabric. The height of the portion from the point A where the vertical line passing through the upper end of the thread and the surface of the thread contact is to the point B where the vertical line passing through the lower end of the thread and the surface of the thread meet. .)
[4] In a cross section perpendicular to one of the warp and weft in the longitudinal direction, 1 μm between the warp and weft, whichever has the higher single yarn fineness, and the yarn adjacent to the warp. The woven fabric according to any one of [1] to [3], which has a gap of 40 μm or less.
[5] The fineness of the single yarn possessed by either one of the warp and the weft is 4 dtex or more and 15 dtex or less, and the fineness of the single yarn possessed by either the warp and the weft is 0. The woven fabric according to any one of [1] to [4], which is 1 dtex or more and 2.5 dtex or less.
[6] The woven fabric according to any one of [1] to [5], wherein at least one of the front surface and the back surface is subjected to calendar processing.
[7] A down product using the woven fabric according to any one of [1] to [6] as a side fabric.

The woven fabric of the present invention is a down proof woven fabric composed of long fiber threads having a fineness of 66 dtex or less, and has a breathability of 1.0 cc / cm ² · sec or more and 50 cc / cm ² · sec or less, and is EN12132. In the down leakage test based on -1, the evaluation based on the determination method of EN13186 is acceptable or good. Since the woven fabric has the above structure, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric having high air permeability and less likely to cause down leakage.

The photograph of the cross section of the warp and weft of the conventional woven fabric is shown. The photograph of the cross section of the warp of a conventional woven fabric is shown. A photograph of a cross section of a warp and weft according to an embodiment of the present invention is shown. A photograph of a cross section of a warp in an embodiment of the present invention is shown. The schematic diagram about the weaving crimp of the yarn extracted from the woven fabric in embodiment of this invention is shown. The photograph of the weaving crimp of the warp (thread B) extracted from the woven fabric in Example 1 of this invention is shown. A schematic diagram of a cross section of a warp and weft according to an embodiment of the present invention is shown. An explanatory diagram schematically illustrating the taffeta weave structure of the woven fabric is shown. An explanatory diagram schematically illustrating the ripstop weave structure of the woven fabric is shown.

Hereinafter, the woven fabric according to the present invention will be specifically described with reference to the drawings. In addition, it is possible to carry out, and all of them are included in the technical scope of the present invention.

First, the features of the woven fabric of the present invention will be described below.

FIG. 3 shows a photograph of a cross section of the weft 20 of the woven fabric 1 according to the embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 4 shows a photograph of the cross section of the warp thread 10. As shown in FIGS. 3 and 4, in the woven fabric 1 of the present invention, the weaving crimps of both the warp 10 and the weft 20 have a specific size.

FIG. 1 shows a photograph of a cross section of the weft 120 of the conventional woven fabric 100, and FIG. 2 shows a photograph of the cross section of the warp thread 110. As shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, in the conventional woven fabric 100, the size of the weaving crimp of either the warp 110 or the warp 120 is reduced. For example, in the case of a high-density plain weave or ripstop woven fabric in which the warp and weft have the same fineness, the weft weft crimp is large, but the warp weft crimp is not so large. As a result of diligent research by the present inventors, if a yarn having a large single yarn fineness, which is not usually used in downproof woven fabrics, is used for a yarn orthogonal to the yarn having a smaller woven crimp, the woven crimp is originally large. It was found that the weaving crimp of the thread that does not become can be increased, and as a result, the weaving crimp can be enhanced in both the warp and the weft.

In the present invention, the raw machine woven in this way is compressed in the vertical direction in a subsequent step. When the compression operation is performed, if the single yarn fineness is small and the number of filaments is large, the individual fibers move so as to release the pressure in the direction perpendicular to the compression direction, and the yarn as a whole becomes flat. transform. However, the yarn having a large single yarn fineness does not easily deform, and instead, the yarn having a small single yarn fineness orthogonal to the yarn having a large single yarn fineness becomes flat, but the single yarn fineness is large. By deforming along the thread cross section to form a large woven crimp, it became possible to increase the woven crimp in both the warp and weft.

As a result of observing the situation when the feathers, which are the inner cotton of the feather product, pop out from the side area, the feathers adhere in parallel along the warp or weft of the fabric, and the feathers are attached during exercise or during washing. Due to misalignment and vibration between the feather and the side, it gradually enters the texture point of the fabric along the fiber axis of the thread, and eventually the tip of the feather branch of the feather is exposed from the texture point of the fabric. Then, when the surface of the side land rubbed against another object, it was observed that the tip of the feather branch of the protruding feather was pulled out and the feather was blown out.

In the conventional woven fabric 100, as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, at least one of the warp yarns 110 and the weft yarn 120 is woven at a high density so that adjacent yarns are in contact with each other when viewed from the thickness direction of the woven fabric. By applying calendar processing to the woven fabric, the woven fabric has a high density so that 140 can be formed by overlapping the adjacent threads when the cross section of the woven fabric is viewed from above. By constructing the conventional woven fabric 100 in this way, the distance from the tip of the feather branch of the feather 200 to the inside of the woven fabric 100 from the back surface 100a of the woven fabric 100 to reach the surface 100b of the woven fabric 100 is lengthened. It is probable that the feathers 200 were prevented from being blown out from the woven fabric 100. Specifically, as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, the tip of the feather branch of the feather 200 comes into contact with the back surface 100a of the conventional woven fabric 100, and the tip of the feather branch of the feather 200 invades the inside of the woven fabric 100. The feathers 200 move along the surface of the single fibers of the threads constituting the woven fabric 100, and the tips of the feather branches of the feathers 200 reach the surface 100b of the woven fabric 100, so that the feathers 200 are blown out. By increasing the density, the distance that the tip of the feather branch of the feather 200 must move from the back surface 100a of the woven fabric 100 to the front surface 100b is increased. However, in the present invention, as shown in FIG. 3, in the warp and weft, a plurality of yarns are not arranged so as to be in contact with each other and overlap each other when viewed from the thickness direction of the woven fabric, and even after the calendar, between the adjacent yarns. There is no overlap in the cross section, but rather wide gaps are observed, but no feather blowouts are seen. The reason for this is that by increasing the weaving crimps of the warps and wefts, the curvature of both the warps and wefts in the weave is increased so that the tips of the feather branches easily follow the yarn fiber axis. It is immobile, and it is speculated that the tip of the feather branch is preventing it from penetrating deep into the fabric. Note that FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional photograph of the woven fabric to show the feathers 200 and the like in order to explain the mechanism of blowing out the feathers 200 in the conventional woven fabric 100, and the relatives of the woven fabric 100 and the feathers 200 are shown. The scale is different from the real thing.

Next, the structure of the woven fabric of the present invention will be described.

The woven fabric of the present invention is a down proof woven fabric composed of long fiber threads having a fineness of 66 dtex or less. Since the woven fabric is composed of long fiber threads having a fineness of 66 dtex or less, the weight can be reduced while the strength of the woven fabric is sufficient.

The fineness of the long fiber threads constituting the woven fabric may be 66 dtex or less, preferably 60 dtex or less, more preferably 56 dtex or less, and further preferably 44 dtex or less. By setting the upper limit of the fineness of the long fiber yarns constituting the woven fabric within the above range, the basis weight of the woven fabric is less likely to increase, and the woven fabric can be made lightweight. Further, the fineness of the long fiber yarns constituting the woven fabric is preferably 5 dtex or more, more preferably 8 dtex or more, and further preferably 11 dtex or more. By setting the lower limit of the fineness of the long fiber yarns constituting the woven fabric within the above range, the strength of the woven fabric can be increased.

The long fiber threads constituting the woven fabric are preferably synthetic fibers. Examples of the synthetic resin constituting the long fiber filaments include polyester resins such as polyethyle terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and borobutylene terephthalate, nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 46, nylon 12, nylon 610, nylon 612, or Examples thereof include polyamide resins such as these copolymers. Among them, the synthetic resin constituting the long fiber yarn is preferably polyethylene terephthalate, nylon 6, nylon 66, or nylon 610. When the synthetic resin constituting the long fiber yarn is polyethylene terephthalate, nylon 6, nylon 66, or nylon 610, the strength of the woven fabric is increased and it becomes easier to handle. Further, as the raw material constituting these long fiber yarns, a recycled raw material obtained by recovering the lint generated in the factory can also be used.

<Draftness>
The air permeability of the woven fabric is 1.0 cc / cm ² · sec or more and 50 cc / cm ² · sec or less. By setting the air permeability of the woven fabric to the above range, even if a feather product having a woven fabric such as a down jacket is worn during exercise such as mountain climbing, the inside of the clothes does not get stuffy and it is possible to make the clothes comfortable to wear. In addition, since the air inside the feather product is easily released, the feather product can be easily folded when the feather product is stored. In the conventional downproof woven fabric, in order to prevent down leakage, the threads are arranged without gaps and arranged so that the threads are in contact with each other in the thickness direction of the woven fabric to cause overlap, and the air permeability is 1.0 cc / cm. It is generally designed to be less than ² · sec, but with the technology of the present invention, down leakage is prevented by increasing the weaving crimp of the warp and weft, so that the down leakage prevention effect is achieved. It is possible to significantly increase the air permeability of the woven fabric and prevent it from getting stuffy while having sufficient air permeability.

The air permeability of the woven fabric may be 1.0 cc / cm ² · sec or more, preferably 1.1 cc / cm ² · sec or more, and more preferably 1.3 cc / cm ² · sec or more. It is preferably 1.5 cc / cm ² · sec or more, and more preferably 1.5 cc / cm 2 · sec or more. By setting the lower limit of the air permeability of the woven fabric to the above range, the woven fabric can sufficiently allow air to pass through, and the wearing feeling and foldability of the feather product having the woven fabric can be enhanced. The upper limit of the air permeability of the woven fabric may be 50 cc / cm ² · sec or less, but may be, for example, 40 cc / cm ² · sec or less and 30 cc / cm ² · sec or less.

<Down proof performance>
The evaluation of feather leakage is carried out by the EN121321 method performed by the IDLF organization. The EN121321 method is often used in Japan, Europe and the like. In the United States and Canada, the IDFL20-1 method used by IDFL institutions is often used. The woven fabric of the present invention is evaluated in a down leakage test filled with 90% down and 10% feather mixture by the EN121321 method, and acceptable or good is obtained in the judgment criteria of EN13186. In the evaluation of the woven fabric of the present invention filled with 75% down and 25% feather mixture by the IDFL20-1 method, grades 3 to 5 can be obtained.

<Structure of thread>
Hygroscopic substances, antioxidants, matting agents, ultraviolet absorbers, antibacterial agents and the like may be added to the long fiber yarns constituting the woven fabric individually or in combination, if necessary. Further, the boiling water shrinkage rate, thermal stress, birefringence rate, thickness unevenness, etc. of the long fiber yarns constituting the woven fabric may be appropriately set according to the use of the woven fabric and the like.

The breaking strength of the long fiber yarns constituting the woven fabric is preferably 3.3 cN / dtex or more, more preferably 3.6 cN / dtex or more, and preferably 4.0 cN / dtex or more. More preferred. By setting the lower limit of the breaking strength of the long fiber yarns constituting the woven fabric within the above range, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric having high tear strength. Further, the upper limit of the breaking strength of the long fiber yarn constituting the woven fabric can be, for example, 10 cN / dtex or less.

The breaking elongation of the long fiber threads constituting the woven fabric is preferably 30% or more, more preferably 35% or more, and further preferably 40% or more. By setting the lower limit of the breaking elongation of the yarn in the above range, yarn breakage is less likely to occur in the warping process, which is the process before forming the yarn into the woven fabric and is the process of aligning the warp. Become. The breaking elongation of the long fiber threads constituting the woven fabric is preferably 55% or less, more preferably 50% or less, and further preferably 45% or less. By setting the upper limit of the breaking elongation of the yarn in the above range, the yarn becomes difficult to stretch and the durability of the woven fabric can be improved.

<Overlap coefficient of thread cross section in the thickness direction of the woven fabric>
As shown in FIG. 7, the woven fabric 1 has a cross section perpendicular to at least one of the warp 10 and the warp 20 in the longitudinal direction, and the warp 10 and the warp 20 having the larger single yarn fineness, and the yarn. It is preferable that the adjacent threads satisfy the following formula (1).
0 <L ₁ / L ₀ ≤ 1 (1)
(In the formula, L ₀ indicates the maximum thickness of the thread in the thickness direction of the woven fabric, and L ₁ is the thickness of the overlapping portion of the thread in the thickness direction of the woven fabric and the thread adjacent to the thread. Indicates the length of.)
As shown in FIG. 7, the overlap between the yarn in the thickness direction of the fabric and the yarn adjacent to the yarn is the single fiber of the warp 10 and the weft 20 having the larger single yarn fineness. In the cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the yarns composed of, the yarns and the yarns adjacent in parallel with the yarns with a gap, in the thickness direction of the fabric, these yarns. Indicates the length of the thickness of the overlapping portion of the threads.

That is, in the woven fabric 1, the overlap coefficient (L ₁ / L) between the yarns composed of the single yarn having the larger single yarn fineness among the warp yarns 10 and the weft yarns 20 and the yarns adjacent to the yarns is It is preferable that ₀ ) is more than 0 and is 1 or less. By setting the value of the overlap coefficient in the above range, the positions of the yarns composed of the single fiber having the larger single yarn fineness among the warp yarn 10 and the weft yarn 20 are close to each other in the thickness direction of the fabric. As a result, the weft crimp of the yarn made of the single fiber having the smaller single yarn fineness, which is in contact with the yarn made of the single fiber having the larger single yarn fineness, can be increased. .. Specifically, in the weft 20 which is the thread A composed of the single fiber having the larger single yarn fineness among the warp 10 and the weft 20 shown in FIG. 7, the overlap coefficient between the adjacent yarns is It is preferable that 0 <L ₁ / L ₀ ≦ 1 is satisfied. Of the warp and weft 20, the yarn composed of the single fiber having the larger single yarn fineness is configured in this way, so that the yarn is composed of the single fiber having the smaller single yarn fineness. The strips are greatly curved and the woven crimps are large, so that down leakage of the woven fabric 1 can be sufficiently prevented. The thread having an overlap coefficient (L ₁ / L ₀ ) of more than 0 and not more than 1 preferably contains 50% or more of at least one of the warp and weft 20 and 65% or more. It is more preferable that it is contained, and it is further preferable that it is contained in an amount of 80% or more.

The overlap coefficient (L ₁ / L ₀ ) between the yarn composed of the single fiber having the larger single yarn fineness among the warp 10 and the weft 20 and the yarn adjacent to the yarn is 0. It is preferably more than, more preferably 0.1 or more, further preferably 0.2 or more, and even more preferably 0.3 or more. By setting the lower limit of the overlap coefficient (L ₁ / L ₀ ) in the above range, the weaving crimp of the yarn can be increased, and the woven fabric 1 with less down leakage can be obtained. Further, the overlap coefficient (L ₁ / L ₀ ) between the yarn composed of the single fiber having the larger single yarn fineness among the warp yarn 10 and the weft yarn 20 and the yarn adjacent to the yarn is determined. It is preferably 1 or less, more preferably 0.95 or less, further preferably 0.9 or less, and even more preferably 0.85 or less. By setting the upper limit of the overlap coefficient (L ₁ / L ₀ ) in the above range, the weaving crimp of the yarn composed of the single fiber having the smaller single yarn fineness is enhanced, so that the feather blowout can be prevented. It will be easier to prevent.

<Void ratio>
As shown in FIG. 7, the fabric 1 is a fabric perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of a yarn (weft 20 in FIG. 7) composed of a single fiber having a higher single yarn fineness among the warp 10 and the weft 20. In the cross section, there is a gap between the yarn composed of the single fiber having the larger single yarn fineness and the yarn adjacent to the yarn, and the yarns are arranged on both sides of the gap. It is preferable that the ratio between the average value of the maximum diameters of the single fibers of each yarn and the length of the gap satisfies the following formula (2).
1 <W ₀ / W ₁ ≤ 60 (2)
(In the formula, W ₀ indicates the average value of the maximum diameters of the single fibers of the threads arranged on both sides of the gap, and W ₁ indicates the length of the gap.)

That is, in the woven fabric 1, the ratio of the average value of the maximum diameters of the single fibers of the yarns composed of the single fibers having the larger single yarn fineness arranged on both sides of the gap to the length of the gap. It is preferable that (W ₀ / W ₁ ) is more than 1 and 60 or less. By setting the value of the ratio of the average value of the maximum diameter of the single fiber to the length of the gap in the above range, the size of the gap between the threads becomes appropriate compared to the diameter of the single fiber. , The air can sufficiently pass through the gap, and the woven fabric 1 can be made into a woven fabric 1 which has air permeability and does not easily leak down.

In the woven fabric 1, the ratio (W ₀ / W ₁ ) between the average value of the maximum diameters of the single fibers of the threads arranged on both sides of the gap and the length of the gap is preferably more than 1. It is more preferably 2 or more, and further preferably 3 or more. By setting the lower limit of the ratio of the average value of the maximum diameter of the single fiber to the length of the gap in the above range, the gap between the two threads becomes an appropriate size, and the air permeability of the woven fabric 1 is increased. The feeling of stuffiness can be reduced. Further, in the woven fabric 1, the ratio (W ₀ / W ₁ ) between the average value of the maximum diameters of the single fibers of the threads arranged on both sides of the gap and the length of the gap is 60 or less. It is preferably 55 or less, more preferably 50 or less, and even more preferably 50 or less. By setting the upper limit of the ratio between the average value of the maximum diameters of the single fibers and the length of the gaps in the above range, it is difficult for the feathers to pass through the woven fabric, and down leakage can be effectively prevented.

In a cross section perpendicular to at least one of the warp 10 and the warp 20 in the longitudinal direction, 1 μm between the warp 10 and the weft 20 having the higher single yarn fineness and the yarn adjacent to the warp 10. It is preferable to have a gap of 40 μm or less. When the length of the gap is 1 μm or more and 40 μm or less, the air permeability of the woven fabric 1 can be sufficiently ensured.

The length of the gap between the warp and weft 20 having the larger single yarn fineness and the yarn adjacent to the warp is preferably 1 μm or more. It is more preferably 3 μm or more, and further preferably 5 μm or more. By setting the lower limit of the gap length within the above range, the air permeability of the woven fabric 1 is enhanced, and it is possible to reduce the stuffiness of the feather product using the woven fabric 1 and improve the foldability. Further, the length of the gap between the warp and weft 20 having the larger single yarn fineness and the yarn adjacent to the warp is 40 μm or less. It is more preferably 38 μm or less, and even more preferably 35 μm or less. By setting the upper limit of the length of the gap in the above range, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric 1 in which feathers are less likely to leak from the gap and down is less likely to leak. In some cases, the length of the gap can be set to 50 μm or more while maintaining the down proof property.

<Woven crimp coefficient>
FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram illustrating a weaving crimp of a thread extracted from a woven fabric, and FIG. 6 is a photograph of a weaving crimp of a warp (thread B) extracted from a woven fabric in Example 1 of the present invention described later. As shown in FIGS. 5 and 6, the warp and weft preferably have a yarn 30 having a weaving crimp coefficient calculated by the following formula (3) of 1.3 or more and 10.0 or less.
Woven crimp coefficient = R ₀ / R ₁ (3)
(In the formula, R ₀ indicates the height from the upper end 31 to the lower end 32 of the thread 30 at the bent portion of the thread 30 in the thickness direction of the woven fabric, and R ₁ indicates the height of the thread 30 in the thickness direction of the woven fabric. From the point A where the vertical line passing through the upper end 31 of the thread 30 and the surface of the thread 30 contact at the bent portion of the thread 30, to the point B where the vertical line passing through the lower end 32 of the thread 30 and the surface of the thread 30 contact. Indicates the height of.)

That is, it is preferable that the woven fabric has threads 30 in which both the warp and weft have a weaving crimp coefficient (R ₀ / R ₁ ) of 1.3 or more and 10.0 or less. By setting the numerical value of the weaving crimp coefficient (R ₀ / R ₁ ) of the warp and weft threads 30 of the woven fabric in the above range, the threads 30 have a greatly bent shape, and the tips of the feathers of the woven fabric are formed. It becomes difficult to invade the inside. Therefore, it becomes a woven fabric in which feathers do not easily come off, and the effect of preventing down leakage can be enhanced.

The weaving crimp coefficient (R ₀ / R ₁ ) of the yarn 30 of the warp and weft of the woven fabric is preferably 1.3 or more, more preferably 1.4 or more, and more preferably 1.5. The above is more preferable. By setting the lower limit of the weaving crimp coefficient of the yarn 30 of the warp and weft of the woven fabric to the above range, the weaving crimp shape of the yarn 30 can be made into a shape in which the feathers are hard to come off. It is possible to enhance the effect of preventing down leakage of the woven fabric. The weaving crimp coefficient (R ₀ / R ₁ ) of the warp and weft threads 30 of the woven fabric is preferably 10.0 or less, more preferably 9.5 or less, and 9.0 or less. It is more preferable to have. By setting the upper limit of the weaving crimp coefficient of the warp and weft threads 30 of the woven fabric within the above range, the texture of the woven fabric is softened and the comfort is improved when the feather product is clothing such as a down jacket. be able to.

<Single yarn fineness of warp and weft>
In a woven fabric, the single yarn fineness of one of the warp and weft (the fineness of one fiber) is 4 dtex or more and 15 dtex or less, and the single yarn fineness of either the warp or the weft is 0. It is preferably 1 dtex or more and 2.5 dtex or less. By setting the single yarn fineness of each of the warp and weft of the woven fabric to the above range, the yarn having a large single yarn fineness and little deformation of the cross-sectional shape, and the yarn having a small single yarn fineness and a large single yarn fineness. The woven fabric has both threads whose cross-sectional shape is easily deformed along the threads, and the weaving crimp of the warp and weft is increased, so that the woven fabric can have both breathability and down leakage prevention performance.

Hereinafter, a yarn having a single yarn fineness of 4 dtex or more and 15 dtex or less may be referred to as "thread A", and a yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.1 dtex or more and 2.5 dtex or less may be referred to as "thread B".

<Single thread fineness of thread A>
The single yarn fineness of the yarn A is preferably 4 dtex or more, more preferably 4.5 dtex or more, further preferably 5 dtex or more, and preferably 15 dtex or less, and 14 dtex or less. It is more preferable that there is, and it is further preferable that it is 13 dtex or less. By setting the lower and upper limits of the single yarn fineness of the yarn A in the above range, the cross-sectional shape of the yarn A is less likely to be deformed when an external force is applied to the yarn A during calendar processing or the like. , The other thread B (specifically, if thread A is warp, thread B is weft, and if thread A is weft, thread B is warp) maintains an appropriate woven crimp shape. Since it becomes easier, both the breathability of the fabric and the down leakage prevention performance can be improved.

<Diameter of single fiber of thread A>
The diameter of the single fiber of the yarn A as the original yarn before making into a woven fabric is preferably 18 μm or more, more preferably 21 μm or more, and further preferably 23 μm or more. By setting the lower limit of the diameter of the single fiber of the yarn A to the above range, the cross-sectional shape of the yarn A becomes larger when an external force is applied to the woven fabric, such as when the yarn A is made into a woven fabric and then subjected to calendar processing. It is hard to be crushed, and the thread B is easily deformed along the thread A, so that an appropriate woven crimp shape can be easily obtained. The diameter of the single fiber of the yarn A is preferably 45 μm or less, more preferably 40 μm or less, and further preferably 38 μm or less. By setting the upper limit of the diameter of the single fiber of the thread A in the above range, the woven fabric becomes soft, and it becomes possible to make the woven fabric suitable for feather products of clothing such as down jackets.

<Cross section of thread A>
The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber constituting the thread A should be, for example, a shape having a large diameter and not easily crushed even when stress is applied. Specifically, as the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber constituting the thread A, a polygon such as a circle, an ellipse, a rhombus or a quadrangle can be mentioned. Above all, the single fiber constituting the thread A preferably has a round cross section.

For example, when the woven fabric is subjected to calendar processing, the cross section of the single fiber constituting the yarn A of the woven fabric is deformed by being crushed by the yarn. Specifically, the diameter of the single fiber constituting the yarn A after the calendar processing of the woven fabric changes from the diameter (original diameter) of the single fiber of the yarn A after the silk reeling. That is, the diameter of the single fiber constituting the thread A after the finished woven fabric is larger than the original diameter of the single fiber of the thread A after the yarn is made in the longitudinal direction (in the cross section of the single fiber of the thread A). It is deformed so as to be short in the thickness direction of the woven fabric and long in the lateral direction (width direction or length direction of the woven fabric). The diameter of the single fiber of the yarn A of the woven fabric in the longitudinal direction is preferably 17 μm or more, more preferably 20 μm or more, further preferably 22 μm or more, and preferably 37 μm or less. , 35 μm or less, more preferably 34 μm or less. On the other hand, the lateral diameter of the single fiber of the yarn A of the woven fabric is preferably 19 μm or more, more preferably 22 μm or more, further preferably 24 μm or more, and 42 μm or less. Is more preferable, 38 μm or less is more preferable, and 36 μm or less is further preferable. By setting the diameters of the single fibers constituting the yarn A of the woven fabric in the above range in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction, it becomes easy to make the woven crimp shape of the yarn B an appropriate shape. Further, in the finished woven fabric, each single fiber of the thread A is preferably arranged in a row along the cloth surface, and the maximum thickness of the thread A and the single fiber contained in the thread A It is preferable that the maximum value of the diameter in the thickness direction is the same value. In addition, since the staple fibers of the yarn A are not easily deformed, the yarn A does not spread flat even after calendar processing. Therefore, even if the yarn density and the cover factor are close to those of the conventional downproof woven fabric, the upper surface of the woven fabric is used. It is possible to have a configuration in which a gap can be seen between the threads A when viewed from the above.

<Number of filaments of thread A>
By increasing the single yarn fineness of the yarn A and reducing the number of filaments, the cross-sectional shape of the yarn A is less likely to be deformed by an external force, and the weaving crimp of the yarn B can be enhanced by that amount. The number of filaments of the thread A is preferably 2 filaments or more and 10 filaments or less, more preferably 5 filaments or less, and further preferably 4 filaments or less. When the number of filaments of the yarn A is set to one filament, the weaving crimp of the yarn B becomes high, but the gap between the yarns A becomes too large and feathers are likely to be ejected. Further, when the number of filaments of the thread A exceeds 10 filaments, the deformation of the cross-sectional shape of the thread A becomes large when an external force is applied to the thread A by calendar processing, and the cross-sectional shape of the thread B changes. The effect of increasing the woven crimp may be reduced.

<Filamentous A ST10: Strong when stretched by 10%>
The strength of the yarn A at 10% elongation is preferably 1.2 cN / dtex or more, more preferably 1.4 cN / dtex or more, and even more preferably 1.6 cN / dtex or more. By setting the lower limit of the strength of the yarn A at 10% elongation in the above range, the yarn A can easily form a woven crimp having an appropriate shape. Further, the strength of the yarn A at 10% elongation is preferably 3.5 cN / dtex or less, more preferably 3.3 cN / dtex or less, and further preferably 3.0 cN / dtex or less. preferable. By setting the upper limit of the strength of the yarn A at 10% elongation to the above range, it is easy to form a woven crimp when the woven fabric is dyed or processed, and the shape of the woven crimp is also caused by an external impact. Is less likely to collapse.

<Viscosity of synthetic resin constituting thread A>
For example, in the case of nylon, the relative viscosity of the synthetic resin constituting the thread A is preferably 2.0 or more, more preferably 2.5 or more, still more preferably 3.0 or more. .. By setting the lower limit of the relative viscosity of the synthetic resin constituting the thread A to the above range, the thread A is less likely to be deformed when the woven fabric is subjected to calendar processing and compressed, and the woven crimp shape is easily maintained. .. Further, the upper limit of the relative viscosity of the synthetic resin constituting the thread A is not particularly limited, but is usually 4.5 or less. By setting the upper limit value of the relative viscosity of the synthetic resin constituting the yarn A to the above value, the flexibility of the yarn A is increased and the texture of the woven fabric can be improved.

In the case of polyester, for example, the ultimate viscosity of the synthetic resin constituting the thread A is preferably 0.5 or more, more preferably 0.55 or more, still more preferably 0.58 or more. .. By setting the lower limit of the ultimate viscosity of the synthetic resin constituting the thread A to the above range, the shape of the thread A does not change easily when the woven fabric is calendar-processed, and the woven crimp shape of the thread A is maintained. It will be easier. Further, the upper limit of the ultimate viscosity of the synthetic resin constituting the thread A is not particularly limited, but can usually be 1.5 or less. By setting the upper limit value of the ultimate viscosity of the synthetic resin constituting the yarn A to the above value, the yarn A becomes flexible and the flexibility of the woven fabric is enhanced.

<Single thread fineness of thread B>
The single yarn fineness of the filament B is preferably 0.1 dtex or more, more preferably 0.2 dtex or more, further preferably 0.3 dtex or more, and more preferably 2.5 dtex or less. It is preferable that it is 2.3 dtex or less, and more preferably 2.0 dtex or less. By setting the lower limit value and the upper limit value of the single yarn fineness of the yarn B in the above range, the cross-sectional shape of the yarn B is easily deformed along the yarn A, and the weaving crimp can be increased. In addition, it is possible to prevent the texture of the woven fabric from becoming soft and the air permeability of the woven fabric from becoming excessively high to reduce the downproof performance.

<Number of filaments of thread B>
The number of filaments of the thread B is preferably 5 filaments or more and 100 filaments or less. By setting the number of filaments of the yarn B to 5 filaments or more and 100 filaments or less, the cross-sectional shape of the yarn B is more easily deformed than the cross-sectional shape of the yarn A, and the woven crimp can be increased. When the number of filaments of the yarn B is less than 5, the deformation of the cross section of the yarn is small, and it tends to be difficult to increase the weaving crimp. Further, if the number of filaments of the yarn B exceeds 100 filaments, the bending hardness in the warp direction and the weft direction of the woven fabric may be extremely different, which makes it difficult to use the woven fabric for the side of the feather product. It may be easy to make a woven fabric that is vulnerable to friction.

<Single yarn fineness ratio of yarn A and yarn B>
The fineness ratio between the single fiber possessed by the thread A and the single fiber possessed by the thread B (single thread fineness of the thread A / single thread fineness of the thread B) is 0.05 or more. It is preferably 0.08 or more, more preferably 0.09 or more, and even more preferably 0.09 or more. The single yarn fineness ratio between the yarn A and the yarn B is preferably 0.9 or less, more preferably 0.7 or less, and further preferably 0.5 or less. By setting the single yarn fineness ratio between the yarn A and the yarn B within the above range, the weaving crimp shape of the warp and weft of the woven fabric tends to be appropriate, and it is possible to enhance the effect of preventing feather leakage. Become.

<Total fineness ratio of thread A and thread B>
In order to enhance the weaving crimp of both the warp and the weft, it is preferable not to make the difference in fineness between the warp and the weft too large. The ratio of the total fineness of the thread A to the total fineness of the thread B (total fineness of the thread A / total fineness of the thread B) is preferably 0.2 or more, and is 0.3 or more. Is more preferable, and 0.4 or more is further preferable. By setting the lower limit of the total fineness ratio of the yarn A and the yarn B within the above range, both the yarn A and the yarn B can easily form an appropriate woven crimp shape. The ratio of the total fineness of the thread A to the total fineness of the thread B is preferably 2.0 or less, more preferably 1.8 or less, and further preferably 1.5 or less. preferable. By setting the upper limit of the total fineness ratio of the thread A and the thread B to the above range, it is possible to prevent the fineness of the thread A from becoming too large with respect to the fineness of the thread B, and to prevent the fineness of the thread A and the thread B from becoming too large. Both woven crimp shapes of strip B can be enhanced.

<Woven fabric structure>
As the structure of the woven fabric, for example, a taffeta as shown in FIG. 8, a ripstop taffeta as shown in FIG. 9, a twill structure and the like can be arbitrarily used. Above all, the structure of the woven fabric is preferably taffeta or ripstop taffeta. Since the structure of the woven fabric is taffeta or ripstop taffeta, many intersections of warp and weft are formed, so that the effect of preventing feather leakage of the woven fabric can be enhanced.

<Lip organization>
In the ripstop structure, it is common to use a thread having a large fineness for the lip portion. In the present invention, as the thread of the lip portion, two or more wefts of a plain weave are aligned, or one thread having a fineness of about 1.8 to 4.2 times that of a weft of a plain weave is used. can do. That is, when the lip portion is "two lips", two weft threads may be aligned and driven into the lip portion, or one thread having twice the thickness of the weft thread may be driven into the lip portion. Similarly, when the lip part is "three lips", it is possible to pull three wefts together and drive them into the lip part, or to drive one thread that is three times as thick as the weft. When the lip portion is "four lips", four weft threads may be aligned and driven into the lip portion, or one thread having a thickness four times that of the weft thread may be driven into the lip portion.

<How to count the density of lip tissue>
In the present invention, for example, in the case of two lips, the density is such that even if two wefts are aligned and driven, or one thread that is twice as thick as the weft is driven, two ground threads are driven. It is regarded as two and counted as two. Similarly, in the case of three lips, it is possible to pull three wefts together and drive them into the lip part, or to drive one thread that is three times as thick as the wefts. Is counted as three, assuming that three are typed in. Both warp and weft are counted in the same way.

<Cover factor of woven fabric warp density>
The coverage factor of the warp density of the woven fabric is preferably 600 or more, more preferably 650 or more, and further preferably 700 or more. By setting the lower limit of the cover factor of the warp density of the woven fabric in the above range, the woven fabric is less likely to leak down. The coverage factor of the warp density of the woven fabric is preferably 1600 or less, more preferably 1550 or less, and further preferably 1500 or less. By setting the upper limit of the cover factor of the warp density of the woven fabric in the above range, the air permeability of the woven fabric can be increased and the texture of the woven fabric can be softened.

<Cover factor of weft density of woven fabric>
The coverage factor of the weft density of the woven fabric is preferably 500 or more, more preferably 550 or more, and further preferably 600 or more. By setting the lower limit of the cover factor of the weft density of the woven fabric within the above range, gaps are less likely to occur between the threads constituting the woven fabric, and the effect of preventing down leakage is enhanced. The coverage factor of the weft density of the woven fabric is preferably 1500 or less, more preferably 1450 or less, and further preferably 1400 or less. By setting the upper limit of the cover factor of the weft density of the woven fabric to the above range, it is possible to prevent the weft density of the woven fabric from becoming too high, and fluffing is less likely to occur during the warping process.

<Total cover factor>
The total cover factor of the woven fabric is preferably 1300 or more, more preferably 1400 or more, and further preferably 1500 or more. By setting the lower limit of the total cover factor of the woven fabric in the above range, the woven fabric has high breathability and the structure of the woven fabric does not easily collapse, so that the durability can be improved. The total cover factor of the woven fabric is preferably 2500 or less, more preferably 2450 or less, and further preferably 2400 or less. By setting the upper limit of the total cover factor of the woven fabric within the above range, the flexibility of the woven fabric can be improved.

<Density of woven fabric>
The warp density and weft density of the woven fabric are preferably 50 pieces / inch or more, more preferably 60 pieces / inch or more, and further preferably 70 pieces / inch or more. By setting the lower limit values of the warp density and the weft density of the woven fabric in the above range, the number of intersections between the warp and weft of the woven fabric becomes sufficient, and the woven fabric is less likely to be misaligned. The warp density and weft density of the woven fabric are preferably 400 pieces / inch or less, more preferably 380 pieces / inch or less, and further preferably 360 pieces / inch or less. By setting the upper limit values of the warp density and the weft density of the woven fabric in the above range, the air permeability of the woven fabric is enhanced and the woven fabric becomes flexible.

<Calendar processing>
It is preferable that at least one of the front surface and the back surface of the woven fabric is subjected to calendar processing. By calendar processing, the weaving crimp of the yarn B having a small single yarn fineness can be made larger. More preferably, both the front and back surfaces of the woven fabric are calendared. The temperature of the calendar processing is not particularly limited, but is preferably 80 ° C. or higher, more preferably 120 ° C. or higher, higher than the glass transition temperature of the material used for the yarn constituting the woven fabric. Further, it is preferably 20 ° C. or higher, more preferably 30 ° C. or higher, lower than the melting point of the material used for the yarn constituting the woven fabric. By setting the temperature of the calendar processing in the above range, it is possible to keep the woven crimp shape of the threads constituting the woven fabric in an appropriate shape. For example, when the yarn constituting the woven fabric is made of polyamide, the calendar processing temperature is preferably 120 ° C. or higher, more preferably 125 ° C. or higher, still more preferably 130 ° C. or higher. Further, it is preferably 200 ° C. or lower, more preferably 195 ° C. or lower, and even more preferably 190 ° C. or lower.

The calendar processing pressure is preferably 0.98 MPa (10 kgf / cm ² ) or more, more preferably 1.47 MPa (15 kgf / cm ² ) or more, and 1.96 MPa (20 kgf / cm ² ) or more. It is more preferable to have. By setting the lower limit of the calendering pressure within the above range, the woven crimp shape of the threads constituting the woven fabric can be easily maintained in an appropriate shape. The calendar processing pressure is preferably 5.88 MPa (60 kgf / cm ² ) or less, more preferably 5.39 MPa (55 kgf / cm ² ) or less, and 4.90 MPa (50 kgf / cm ² ). The following is more preferable. By setting the upper limit of the calendering pressure in the above range, the fibers constituting the woven fabric are appropriately compressed, and the woven fabric having high tear strength can be obtained.

<Tear strength>
The tear strength of the woven fabric by the pendulum method is preferably 5N or more, more preferably 6N or more, and even more preferably 7N or more in both the warp direction and the weft direction. By setting the lower limit of the tear strength of the woven fabric in the above range, the durability of the woven fabric is increased. Further, the tear strength of the woven fabric by the pendulum method is preferably 50 N or less, more preferably 40 N or less, and further preferably 30 N or less in both the warp direction and the weft direction. By setting the upper limit of the tear strength of the woven fabric to the above range, it is possible to prevent the woven fabric from becoming excessively thick and to make the woven fabric lightweight.

<Metsuke>
The basis weight of the woven fabric is preferably 80 g / m ² or less, more preferably 70 g / m ² or less, and even more preferably 60 g / m ² or less. By setting the upper limit of the basis weight of the woven fabric in the above range, the breathability of the woven fabric is enhanced, and the woven fabric becomes flexible and lightweight. Further, the lower limit of the basis weight of the woven fabric can be, for example, 20 g / m ² or more, 25 g / m ² or more, and 30 g / m ² or more.

<Dyeing / Processing>
The woven fabric can be refined, water repellent, and softened, resin processed, and silicone processed to adjust the texture and strength of the woven fabric using a general thin fabric processing machine. For example, as the softener, amino-modified silicone, polyethylene-based, polyester-based, paraffin-based softener and the like can be used. Further, in the resin processing, for example, various resins such as melamine resin, glyoxal resin, urethane type, and polyester type can be used as the resin processing agent.

The woven fabric of the present invention is preferably used as a side material for down products. Among the down products, it is more preferable to use them for down wear such as down jackets for outdoor activities and sports, and sleeping bags.

Next, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto, and all changes are made without departing from the spirits of the above and the following. It is included in the technical scope of the present invention. The measuring method used in the present invention is as follows.

<Fineness>
The total fineness (dtex) of the yarn was determined by preparing three 100 m long yarn skeins, measuring the mass (g) of each, calculating the average value, and multiplying by 100. The single yarn fineness was obtained by dividing the fineness of the yarn by the number of filaments.

<Relative viscosity>
A sample solution was prepared by dissolving the sample in 96.3 ± 0.1% by mass of the reagent special grade concentrated sulfuric acid so that the polymer concentration was 10 mg / ml. Using an Ostwald viscometer with a water drop time of 6 to 7 seconds at a temperature of 20 ° C ± 0.05 ° C, a drop time of 20 ml of the prepared sample solution at a temperature of 20 ° C ± 0.05 ° C T ₁ (seconds). The drop time T ₀ (seconds) of 20 ml of the special grade concentrated sulfuric acid of 96.3 ± 0.1% by mass used for dissolving the sample was measured. The relative viscosity (RV) of the material used was calculated by the following formula.
RV = T ₁ / T ₀

<Breaking strength>
For the breaking strength of the thread, a 4301 type universal material tester manufactured by Instron Japan Co., Ltd. was used, and a load of 33 g was applied to 1 denier with a sample length of 20 cm and a tensile speed of 20 cm / min, and the thread broke. The strength at the time was measured, and the average value of the three measurements was taken as the breaking strength.

<Elongation at break>
The breaking elongation of the yarn was determined by the same operation as the above-mentioned method for measuring the breaking strength, the elongation when the yarn was broken was measured, and the average value of the three measurements was taken as the breaking elongation.

<Breaking strength at 10% elongation>
For the breaking strength of the thread at 10% elongation, a 4301 type universal material tester manufactured by Instron Japan Co., Ltd. was used, and a sample length of 20 cm, a tensile speed of 20 cm / min, and a load of 33 g per 1 denier were applied. The breaking strength when stretched by 10% from the length was measured, and the average value of the three measurements was taken as the breaking strength when stretched by 10%.

<Metsuke>
The basis weight of the woven fabric was measured according to the mass per unit area specified in JIS L 1096 8.4.

<Cover factor>
The total cover factor (CF) of the woven fabric was calculated by the following formula.
CF = T × (DT) ^1/2 + W × (DW) ^1/2
In the formula, T and W indicate the warp and weft density (book / 2.54 cm) of the woven fabric, and DT and DW indicate the warp and weft thickness (dtex) constituting the woven fabric.

<Strong tearing>
The tear strength of the woven fabric was measured in both directions according to the tear strength D method (Pendulum method) specified in JIS L 1096 8.15.5.

<Draftness>
The air permeability of the woven fabric was measured according to the air permeability A method (Frazil type method) specified in JIS L 1096 8.27.1.

<Layer overlap coefficient in the thickness direction of the woven fabric>
The overlap coefficient of the yarns in the thickness direction of the woven fabric is such that the cross section is perpendicular to the yarns (thick single yarn fineness yarns) composed of the single yarn having the larger single yarn fineness among the warp and weft. Cut and shoot so that multiple threads are included. When cutting a woven fabric, a yarn composed of a single yarn having a smaller single yarn fineness among warp and weft (fine single yarn fineness yarn; yarn orthogonal to a thick single yarn fineness yarn). Aim at the center of the thickness of the fabric and cut the fabric vertically along the thread. By doing so, the adjacent thick single yarn fineness yarn can cut the thick single yarn fineness yarn aiming at the highest part and the lowest part of the vertical position of the fine single yarn fineness yarn, and the cross section of the thick single yarn fineness yarn can be cut. Is easier to observe. Further, in order to cut the yarn neatly, it is preferable to freeze the textile with a liquid nitrogen while placing it on the measurement sample table and cut it with a sharp blade such as a disposable safety razor. The photograph was taken at 300 times using an S-3500N scanning electron microscope (SEM) manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd. As shown in FIG. 7, the overlap L ₁ and the thickness L ₀ of the threads seen in the height direction of the adjacent threads are measured from the obtained photograph, and the overlap coefficient of the cross section of the threads is calculated. The average value measured at any three points of the woven fabric was used as the thread overlap coefficient.
Thread overlap coefficient = L ₁ / L ₀ (see Fig. 7)

<Woven crimp coefficient>
Gently unravel the weaving crimps of the threads that make up the woven fabric, remove the warps and wefts from the woven fabric, and place them on a horizontal table at an angle perpendicular to the weaving crimps (the weaving crimps). Take a picture at 100x using a VH-Z450 type microscope (manufactured by KEYENCE) at the maximum visible angle). As shown in FIGS. 5 and 6, R ₀ and R ₁ are measured from photographs to calculate the weaving crimp coefficients of the warp and weft, respectively. Three warp and weft threads were extracted from the woven fabric at arbitrary locations and measured, and the average value was used as the weaving crimp coefficient.
Thread weaving crimp coefficient = R ₀ / R ₁ (see Fig. 5 and Fig. 6)

<Gap and void ratio between adjacent thick single fiber yarns>
The air gap ratio of the threads is the same as the above <thread overlap coefficient in the thickness direction of the woven fabric>.
The cross section of the woven fabric (the cross section of the thick single yarn fineness yarn) is photographed. The maximum diameter of the single fiber of the thick single yarn fineness yarn and the gap between the thick single yarn fineness yarns are measured at any three points on the woven fabric cross section, and the ratio between the maximum diameter of the single yarn and the gap between the yarns is calculated. The average value was taken as the void ratio. The observation was performed with an S-3500N scanning electron microscope (SEM) manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd. The spun yarn was straightened on the SEM sample table, fixed with a double-sided tape dedicated to SEM, and then cut in the longitudinal direction of the spun yarn and perpendicular to the sample table using a disposable safety razor. After that, pretreatment and photography of SEM photography were carried out by a usual method, and a cross-sectional photograph of a spun yarn was obtained. The shooting magnification was set to 300 times.
Thread void ratio = W ₀ / W ₁ (see Fig. 7)

<Down leak test>
The down leak test of the woven fabric was carried out in the IDFL or Q-TEC organization according to the EN121321 method, and it was confirmed whether the evaluation based on the determination method of EN13186 was good or acceptable.

Example 1
Nylon 6 polymer chips having a relative viscosity of 3.5 were melt-spun at a spinning temperature of 288 ° C. from a spinneret having two discharge holes (diameter: 0.30 mm, slit length 0.55 mm). Of the two godet rollers, the speed of the first godet roller was set to 2400 m / min and the speed of the second godet roller was set to 3600 m / min for stretching. The take-up speed was set to 3545 m / min to obtain 11 dtex, 2-filament yarn. This thread was designated as thread A.

Next, a nylon 6 polymer chip having a relative viscosity of 3.5 was melt-spun at a spinning temperature of 288 ° C. from a spinneret having 20 discharge holes (diameter: 0.20 mm, slit length 0.45 mm). Of the two godet rollers, the speed of the first godet roller was set to 2450 m / min and the speed of the second godet roller was set to 3500 m / min for stretching. The winding speed was set to 3345 m / min to obtain 22 dtex, 20 filament yarns. This thread was designated as thread B.

The above-mentioned thread A, 11 dtex, and 2-filament thread are used as weft threads, and the above-mentioned thread B, 22 dtex, and 20 filament threads are used as warp threads, and the loom warp density is 180 threads / 2.54 cm. Was set to 235 lines / 2.54 cm and woven with a water jet loom with a taffeta structure (hereinafter, 2.54 cm may be referred to as an inch).

The obtained dough is scoured using an open soaper according to a conventional method, preset at 190 ° C. for 30 seconds using a pin tenter, and turned blue with an acid dye using a liquid flow dyeing machine (manufactured by Hisaka Works: Circular NS). After dyeing, an intermediate set was performed at 180 ° C. × 30 seconds. After that, calender processing (processing conditions: cylinder processing, temperature 150 ° C., pressure 2.45 MPa (25 kgf / cm ² ), speed 20 m / min) is applied twice to one side of the woven fabric, and then flexible finishing processing is performed to obtain a density. A woven fabric having 206 lines / 2.54 cm in the warp direction and 247 lines / 2.54 cm in the weft direction, a cover factor of 1785, and a grain size of 33 g / m ² was obtained. Although there is a gap of 20μ between the weft and the adjacent yarn of the yarn A, the value of the cover factor is 819, which is not much different from that of the conventional woven fabric. For the obtained woven fabric, the overlapping state of the monofilaments in the multifilament, the texture by the cantilever, the tear strength, and the air permeability were measured. The results are shown in Table 1.

Example 2
In the spinning method described in Example 1, melt spinning was performed from a spinneret having seven discharge holes (diameter: 0.30 mm, slit length 0.55 mm). Of the two godet rollers, the speed of the first godet roller was set to 2400 m / min and the speed of the second godet roller was set to 3600 m / min for stretching. The winding speed was set to 3545 m / min to obtain 11 dtex, 7 filament yarns. This thread was designated as thread B. The same thread A as in Example 1 was used. The thread of the thread A was used as the weft and the thread of the thread B was used as the warp, and the woven structure was the lip structure shown in FIG. The fabric was obtained in the same way. Although there is a gap of 8μ between the weft and the adjacent yarn of the thread A, the value of the cover factor of the weft is 955, which is not much different from that of the conventional woven fabric and is high. Table 1 shows the results of various measurements.

Example 3
The number of discharge holes in the spinneret was set to 3, and 22 dtex and 3 filament yarns were obtained by the spinning method described in Example 1. This thread was designated as thread A. The raw machine warp density was set to 180 lines / inch. As the yarn B, 44 dtex and 34 filament yarns were obtained by the same spinning method as the warp yarn described in Example 1. The weft density of the raw machine was set to 120 lines / inch. A woven fabric was obtained by the same method as in Example 1 using the yarn of the yarn A as the warp and the yarn of the yarn B as the weft. Although there is a gap of 9μ between the adjacent yarns of the warp and weft A, the value of the cover factor of the warp and weft is 862, which is not much different from that of the conventional woven fabric and is high. The results are shown in Table 1.

Example 4
The discharge amount at the time of spinning was adjusted so that the total fineness was 38 dtex, the number of discharge holes was set to 3, and the yarn A was obtained by spinning by the same method as in Example 1. On the other hand, the discharge amount at the time of spinning was adjusted so that the total fineness was 56 dtex, the number of discharge holes of the spinneret was 48, and the yarn B was obtained by the same method as in Example 1. The woven fabric is processed with the same formulation as in Example 1 except that the yarn A is used as a weft and the yarn B is used as a warp, the raw machine warp density is set to 140 threads per inch, and the raw machine weft density is set to 135 threads per inch. ·evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.

Example 5
Thread A was obtained by the same method as in Example 1 except that the yarn was changed to 11dtex and 2-filament yarn. The yarn B was spun by the same method as in Example 1 by adjusting the discharge amount at the time of spinning so that the total fineness was 22 dtex, and making the number of discharge holes of the spinneret 48. Processing and evaluation using the same formulation as in Example 1 except that the yarn A is used as a weft and the yarn B is used as a warp, the raw machine warp density is set to 180 threads per inch, and the raw machine weft density is set to 235 threads per inch. did. The results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 1
Nylon 6 polymer chips having a relative viscosity of 3.5 were melt-spun from a spinneret having 48 discharge holes (diameter 0.15 mm, slit length 0.45 mm) at a spinning temperature of 288 ° C. to obtain yarn B. Examples except that the yarn B was used for the warp and weft, the raw machine warp density was set to 180 lines / 2.54 cm, the raw machine weft density was set to 190 lines / 2.54 cm, and the plain weave was woven by a water jet loom. Processed with the same formulation as 1. In the obtained fabric, the threads adjacent to each other did not overlap each other in the thickness direction of the woven fabric, the value of the void ratio of the threads was small, and the weaving crimp coefficient of the threads was also small. Moreover, since the air permeability of the woven fabric was low, the feeling of stuffiness was strong. The results are shown in Table 1. The weaving crimp coefficient of the yarn B was measured with the yarn used for the weft.

Comparative Example 2
Thread A was obtained by producing with the same spinning method as in Example 1 except that the ejection amount of the extrusion was 22 dtex and the number of ejection holes of the spinneret was 3 to make 3 filaments. The yarn A of Comparative Example 2 was used as the warp, and the yarn A of Example 1 was used as the weft, and the yarn A alone was woven in a plain weave with the same warp and weft density as in Example 1. Then, it was processed with the same prescription as in Example 1. The obtained dough had a large gap between the threads and had too high air permeability, and as a result, there was a lot of feather leakage and the fabric did not pass the feather leakage test. The results are shown in Table 1. The length of the gap between the yarns A and the void ratio of the single fibers of the yarns A are measured by the yarn having the larger single yarn fineness used for the warp, and the yarns A overlap. The coefficient was measured with the yarn having the smaller single yarn fineness used for the weft.

1: Woven fabric 10: Warp 20: Weft 30: Thread 31: Upper end of thread 32: Lower end of thread 100: Conventional woven fabric 100a: Back surface of conventional woven fabric 100b: Surface of conventional woven fabric 110: Of conventional woven fabric Warp 120: Weft of conventional woven fabric 140: Overlap of adjacent threads 200: Feather A: Point A
B: Point B

Claims (7)

A down proof woven fabric composed of long fiber threads with a fineness of 66 dtex or less.
The air permeability is 1.0 cc / cm ² · sec or more and 50 cc / cm ² · sec or less.
A woven fabric characterized in that the evaluation based on the determination method of EN13186 is acceptable or good in the down leakage test based on EN12132-1. In a cross section perpendicular to at least one of the warps and wefts in the longitudinal direction
The warp and weft, whichever has the higher single yarn fineness, and the yarn adjacent to the warp satisfy the following formula (1).
There is a gap between the warp and weft, whichever has the higher single yarn fineness, and the yarn adjacent to the warp.
The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the ratio of the average value of the maximum diameters of the single fibers of the threads arranged on both sides of the gap to the length of the gap is the ratio of the following formula (2).
0 <L ₁ / L ₀ ≤ 1 (1)
(In the formula, L ₀ indicates the maximum thickness of the thread in the thickness direction of the woven fabric, and L ₁ is the overlapping portion of the thread in the thickness direction of the woven fabric and the thread adjacent to the thread. Indicates the length of the thickness of.)
1 <W ₀ / W ₁ ≤ 60 (2)
(In the formula, W ₀ indicates the average value of the maximum diameters of the single fibers of the threads arranged on both sides of the gap, and W ₁ indicates the length of the gap.) The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the warp and weft have threads having a weaving crimp coefficient of 1.3 or more and 10.0 or less calculated by the following formula (3).
Woven crimp coefficient = R ₀ / R ₁ (3)
(In the formula, R ₀ indicates the height from the upper end to the lower end of the yarn at the bent portion of the yarn in the thickness direction of the woven fabric, and R ₁ indicates the bending of the yarn in the thickness direction of the woven fabric. The height of the portion from the point A where the vertical line passing through the upper end of the thread and the surface of the thread contact is to the point B where the vertical line passing through the lower end of the thread and the surface of the thread meet. .) In a cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of either the warp or the warp
Any one of claims 1 to 3 having a gap of 1 μm or more and 40 μm or less between the warp and weft yarn having the higher single yarn fineness and the yarn adjacent to the warp yarn. The woven fabric described in the section. The fineness of the single yarn possessed by either the warp and the weft is 4 dtex or more and 15 dtex or less.
The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the fineness of the single yarn possessed by either the warp and the weft is 0.1 dtex or more and 2.5 dtex or less. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein at least one of the front surface and the back surface is subjected to calendar processing. A down product using the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6 as a side land.

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