JP2020525088A - Footwear article incorporating an embroidery element and associated manufacturing method - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to embroidery material (200, 45, 55) portions for incorporation into footwear articles, and systems and methods for their manufacture. More specifically, the present invention relates to a footwear article having an upper (310, 315, 605, 705, 960) with a sole (320) structure, wherein the upper (310, 315, 605, 705, 960). A first structural layer comprising a base layer (205, 395, 610) and at least one first fiber embroidered on the outer surface of the base layer (205, 395, 610), at least one first. The fiber comprises a first structural layer that forms a plurality of first elongated structural elements extending over the outer surface of the base layer (205, 395, 610) and provides discrete localized structure support to the base layer. Includes 1 upper element.

Description

The present invention relates generally to the field of footwear textiles, and more specifically to portions of footwear articles incorporating embroidery portions and systems and methods relating to the manufacture of such embroidery portions. The embroidered portion may be useful in creating selective areas of support and elasticity, for example, in components of the shoe upper.

The incorporation of textiles with different structural properties in different areas of the textile can be important in some industries and products. For example, footwear, and more specifically, athletic footwear, often includes an upper with different stretch and support characteristics required in different areas of the upper. Traditionally, uppers for athletic footwear are formed from a number of different material parts that are installed in different areas of the footwear upper and/or within an area of the footwear. Layered over each other to provide the desired structural and performance characteristics for the shoe. However, while forming footwear from these multiple material parts is both labor-intensive and expensive, it also potentially contributes to the weight and construction and performance capabilities of the footwear. Negative structural limits of

Improved, in some embodiments, automatable and/or customizable, subject to the complexity, cost, and structural limitations associated with forming textile elements with complex and varying structural properties through traditional methods It is desirable to provide improved methods and processes for standard textiles that allow the provision of complex structural and/or decorative features on footwear through the methods and systems. Thus, the systems and methods described herein, for example, for creating unique structural and aesthetic features on and within fabric elements for use in forming uppers for footwear articles. Providing innovative methods.

A first aspect of the present invention includes a footwear article having an upper and a sole structure fixed to the upper. The upper includes a first upper element, the first upper element including a base layer, the base layer having an inner surface and an opposing outer surface, the inner surface facing the interior of the footwear article. The first upper element further includes a first structural layer including at least one first fiber embroidered on the outer surface of the base layer, the at least one first fiber extending across the outer surface of the base layer. Forming a plurality of first elongate structural elements and providing discrete localized structural support to the substrate. The first elongate structuring element includes a longitudinal direction, a lateral width, a stitch density, and a stitch angle relative to the longitudinal direction, respectively, and a longitudinal axis, a lateral direction, in at least one of the first elongate structuring elements. At least one of the directional width, stitch density, and stitch angle varies over the length of the first elongate structuring element.

In one embodiment, the longitudinal and lateral widths of at least a portion of the first group of first elongate structural elements vary over the length of those first elongate structural elements. In one embodiment, at least one of the longitudinal and transverse widths varies smoothly over a section of the length of the first group of first elongate structuring elements. The longitudinal direction of the plurality of first elongate structural elements can be different from that of their adjacent first elongate structural elements. The first structural layer may reduce stretch of a portion of the base layer in a direction that is substantially aligned with a longitudinal direction of the first elongate structural element extending across that portion of the base layer. The amount of stretch reduction of a portion of the base layer may be positively related to the lateral width of the first elongate structural element extending across that portion of the base layer.

At least a portion of the at least one first fiber embroidered on the outer surface of the base layer may be at least partially fused to the outer surface of the base layer through the application of at least one of heat and pressure. Each elongate structural element may be formed from a different first fiber portion, or may be formed from a different region of the same first fiber portion. The first fibers may include or consist essentially of at least one of threads, filaments, cords, laces, strands, ribbons, and bands. The first fibers may comprise, or consist essentially of, thermoplastic polyurethane, polyester, nylon, and/or natural fibers, for example. The first fibers may be mechanically embroidered on the substrate or manually embroidered. In one embodiment, the first fiber is securely embroidered on the base layer by at least one bobbin thread extending on the inner surface of the base layer adjacent the first fiber, the bobbin thread being a thermoplastic polyurethane, polyester, nylon. , And may comprise or consist essentially of a material selected from the group consisting of: The bobbin may be at least partially fused to the inner surface of the substrate through the application of at least one of heat and pressure.

In one embodiment, at least a portion of the plurality of first elongate structural elements extends in a direction generally parallel to at least one predominant direction of strain that the final footwear article will experience during the first athletic movement. Exists The stitch density may be 10-30 stitches per centimeter, or 15-25 stitches per centimeter, or about 20 stitches per centimeter. The stitch angle is 30 to 60 degrees from the vertical direction, and may be, for example, about 45 degrees from the vertical direction.

The footwear article further includes a second structural layer including at least one second fiber embroidered on the outer surface of the base layer, the at least one second fiber extending from the outer surface of the base layer. A second elongate structural element can be formed to provide localized structural support to the substrate. The second elongate structuring elements may each comprise a longitudinal direction, a lateral width, a stitch density, and a stitch angle relative to the longitudinal direction, wherein the longitudinal direction in at least one of the second elongate structuring elements. At least one of the axis, the lateral width, the stitch density, and the stitch angle can vary over the length of the second elongate structuring element. The array of second elongate structuring elements can be different than the array of first elongate structuring elements.

The longitudinal and lateral widths of at least a portion of the first group of second elongate structuring elements can vary over the length of those second elongate structuring elements. At least one of the longitudinal and transverse widths can vary smoothly over a section of the length of the first group of second elongate structuring elements. The longitudinal direction of the plurality of second elongate structuring elements can be different than that of their adjacent second elongate structuring elements. The second structural layer may reduce stretch of a portion of the base layer in a direction that is substantially aligned with a longitudinal direction of a second elongate structural element extending across that portion of the base layer. The amount of reduction in stretch of a portion of the base layer may be positively related to the lateral width of the second elongate structural element extending across that portion of the base layer.

In one embodiment, at least a portion of the at least one second fiber embroidered on the outer surface of the base layer is at least partially fused to the outer surface of the base layer through the application of at least one of heat and pressure. Each elongate structural element can be a different second fiber portion or can be formed from different regions of a single fiber. The second fibers can include or consist essentially of at least one of yarns, filaments, cords, laces, strands, ribbons, and bands. The second fiber can be the same material as the first fiber or a different material. At least a portion of the plurality of second elongate structural elements may extend in a direction generally parallel to at least one secondary direction of strain that the final footwear article will undergo during the second athletic movement. it can. At least one of the color, material, and diameter of the first fiber can be different than that of the second fiber. The second structural layer can include a first region extending over the outer surface of the base layer and at least a portion of the first structural layer. The second structural layer can further include a second region extending over a portion of the outer surface of the base layer, on which the first structural layer is absent. The first structural layer can also include a region extending over a portion of the outer surface of the base layer, on which the second structural layer is absent.

The footwear article, in one embodiment, can include an inner liner having an inner surface and an opposing outer surface, the outer surface of the inner liner positioned adjacent the inner surface of the base layer, the inner surface of the inner liner comprising: Enclosed therein is a gap in which the wearer's foot of the footwear article can be positioned. The footwear article includes a third structural layer having at least one third fiber embroidered on an outer surface of the base layer over the first structural layer, the at least one third fiber including at least one lace. At least one of a hole boundary and an indicia can be formed.

Another aspect of the invention includes a method of forming at least a portion of an upper for a footwear article. The method includes providing a base layer having an inner surface and an opposing outer surface, and at least one of the strains the base layer will undergo during a first athletic movement in response to incorporation into a footwear article. Identifying the first direction. The method further includes embroidering a first structural layer on the outer surface of the base layer, the first structural layer including at least one first fiber, the at least one first fiber extending over the outer surface of the base layer, and Forming a plurality of first elongate structural elements extending in a direction substantially parallel to the at least one first direction and providing localized structural support to the substrate. The first elongate structuring elements can each include a longitudinal direction, a lateral width, a stitch density, and a stitch angle relative to the longitudinal direction, wherein the longitudinal direction in at least one of the first elongate structuring elements. At least one of the axis, the lateral width, the stitch density, and the stitch angle can vary over the length of the first elongate structuring element. The method further includes incorporating the base layer and the embroidered first structural layer into the upper of the footwear article.

In one embodiment, the method also includes identifying at least one second direction of strain that the base layer will undergo during a second athletic movement, in response to being incorporated into the footwear article, and the base layer. Embroidering a second structural layer comprising at least one second fiber on an outer surface of the at least one second fiber in a direction substantially parallel to the at least one second direction of strain. Forming a plurality of second elongate structural elements extending across the outer surface of the substrate to provide localized structural support to the substrate. The second elongate structuring elements may each include a longitudinal direction, a lateral width, a stitch density, and a stitch angle relative to the longitudinal direction, the longitudinal direction in at least one of the second elongate structuring elements. At least one of the axis, the lateral width, the stitch density, and the stitch angle can vary over the length of the second elongate structuring element. In addition, the arrangement of the second elongate structural elements can be different than the arrangement of the first elongate structural elements.

In one embodiment, identifying a first direction of strain includes empirical strain data at multiple locations on a footwear article (and, for example, on an outer surface of the footwear article) during a first athletic movement. Including analysis of. The lateral width of the first and second elongate structural elements at a given location on the substrate can be substantially related to the amount of strain at that location.

Another aspect of the present invention relates to a footwear article having an upper and a sole structure fixed to the upper. The upper includes a first upper element, the first upper element including a base layer, the base layer having an inner surface and an opposing outer surface, the inner surface facing the interior of the footwear article. The first upper element further includes a first structural layer including a plurality of first embroidered elongate elements extending over at least a portion of an outer surface of the base layer, the first embroidered elongate element including: Each includes a vertical direction, a horizontal width, a stitch density, and a stitch angle with respect to the vertical direction. At least one of the longitudinal axis and the lateral width of at least one of the first embroidered elongate elements varies over the length of the first embroidered elongate element. At least a portion of the at least one first embroidered elongate element is at least partially fused to the outer surface of the substrate through the application of at least one of heat and pressure. At least a portion of the plurality of first embroidered elongate elements extends in a direction generally parallel to at least one predominant direction of strain that the final footwear article will undergo during the first athletic movement.

The first upper element further includes a second structural layer including a plurality of second embroidered elongate elements extending over at least a portion of an outer surface of the base layer, the second embroidered elongate element including: Each includes a vertical direction, a horizontal width, a stitch density, and a stitch angle with respect to the vertical direction. At least one of the longitudinal axis and the lateral width of at least one of the second embroidered elongate elements varies over the length of the second embroidered elongate element. At least a portion of the at least one second embroidered elongate element is at least partially fused to the outer surface of the substrate through the application of at least one of heat and pressure. At least a portion of the plurality of second embroidered elongate elements extends in a direction substantially parallel to at least one secondary direction of strain that the final footwear article will undergo during the second athletic movement. .. Additionally, the second array of embroidered elongate elements is different from the first array of embroidered elongate elements.

In the drawings, like reference characters generally refer to the same parts throughout the different views. Also, the drawings are not necessarily to scale and, instead, generally focus on exemplifying the principles of the invention. In the following description, various embodiments of the present invention will be described.

1A-1C are schematic diagrams of exemplary stretch embroidery elements, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

FIG. 2A is a schematic illustration of another exemplary stretch embroidery element, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

2B is a schematic view of the elongated embroidery element of FIG. 2A after fusing the embroidery thread to the base material.

FIG. 3A is a schematic illustration of another exemplary stretch embroidery element, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

3B is a schematic view of the elongated embroidery element of FIG. 3A after fusing the embroidery thread to the base material.

FIG. 4A is a schematic illustration of another exemplary stretch embroidery element, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

4B is a schematic view of the elongated embroidery element of FIG. 4A after fusing the embroidery thread to the base material.

FIG. 5A is a schematic illustration of a material incorporating multiple elongate embroidery elements, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

FIG. 5B is a schematic illustration of another material incorporating a plurality of stretch embroidery elements, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

FIG. 6A is a schematic illustration of several test specimens of a material incorporating a plurality of stretch embroidery elements, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

6B is a chart showing resistance to stretching of the test sample of FIG. 6A under laboratory conditions.

FIG. 7A is a schematic illustration of paths and contours of an exemplary stretch embroidery element, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

7B and 7C are exemplary stretch embroidery elements that follow the paths and contours of FIG. 7A. 7B and 7C are exemplary stretch embroidery elements that follow the paths and contours of FIG. 7A.

FIG. 8A is a schematic illustration of paths and contours of another exemplary stretch embroidery element, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

8B is an exemplary stretch embroidery element that follows the path and contour of FIG. 8A.

FIG. 9 is a schematic illustration of an embroidery eyelet for a racing element, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

FIG. 10 is a schematic illustration of an exemplary stretch embroidery element, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

FIG. 11 is a schematic illustration of another exemplary stretch embroidery element, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

FIG. 12 is a schematic illustration of a material incorporating a plurality of embroidery patterns, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

FIG. 13 is a side view of a footwear article incorporating a plurality of embroidery patterns, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

14 and 15 are medial and lateral side views of another footwear article incorporating multiple embroidery patterns, according to some embodiments of the present invention. 14 and 15 are medial and lateral side views of another footwear article incorporating multiple embroidery patterns, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

16A-16D depict a method of creating an embroidery pattern, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

FIG. 17A is a top view of an upper incorporating a first embroidery pattern, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

FIG. 17B is a top view of an upper incorporating a second embroidery pattern, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

17C is a top view of a shoe incorporating the embroidery pattern of FIGS. 17A and 17B.

FIG. 18A is a top view of another upper incorporating a first embroidery pattern, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

FIG. 18B is a top view of another upper incorporating a second embroidery pattern, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

FIG. 18C is a top view of a shoe incorporating the embroidery pattern of FIGS. 18A and 18B.

19A-21B illustrate a method of determining a plurality of embroidery patterns for a footwear upper based on experimental data, according to some embodiments of the present invention. 19A-21B illustrate a method of determining a plurality of embroidery patterns for a footwear upper based on experimental data, according to some embodiments of the present invention. 19A-21B illustrate a method of determining a plurality of embroidery patterns for a footwear upper based on experimental data, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

FIG. 22A is a top view of a footwear upper shell incorporating two embroidery patterns, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

FIG. 22B is a top view of another footwear upper shell incorporating two embroidery patterns, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

FIG. 22C is a top view of another footwear upper shell that incorporates two embroidery patterns, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

FIG. 22D is a top view of another footwear upper shell that incorporates two embroidery patterns, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

23A-23D are top views of multiple layers of a multi-layered embroidered footwear upper shell, according to some embodiments of the present invention. 23A-23D are top views of multiple layers of a multi-layered embroidered footwear upper shell, according to some embodiments of the present invention. 23A-23D are top views of multiple layers of a multi-layered embroidered footwear upper shell, according to some embodiments of the present invention. 23A-23D are top views of multiple layers of a multi-layered embroidered footwear upper shell, according to some embodiments of the present invention.

23E is a top view of an assembled multi-layered embroidered footwear upper shell incorporating the layers of FIGS. 23A-23D.

24 is a perspective view of a footwear article incorporating the multi-layered embroidered footwear upper shell of FIG. 23E.

These and other objects, along with advantages and features of the invention disclosed herein, will be more apparent through reference to the following description, accompanying drawings, and claims. Further, it is to be understood that the features of the various embodiments described herein are not mutually exclusive and may exist in various combinations and permutations.

The invention described herein relates generally to methods and systems for providing fabrics with improved performance and/or aesthetic properties, and products incorporating such fabrics. More specifically, the invention described herein has structural elements embroidered to provide structural and/or aesthetic benefits to fabrics for use in, for example, athletic footwear. , Regarding fabric material parts.

The present invention eliminates the need to incorporate a plurality of additional materials into the textile during formation of the textile to provide the desired structural and/or aesthetic properties, and other materials to be sewn or sewn onto the textile. Allows the processing of fabrics/textiles (eg, standard knit, woven, non-woven textiles, mesh, sheets, laminates, etc.) through the application of embroidery threads without the need for bonding. Rather, the method described herein allows a standard untreated off-the-shelf fabric to be customized to provide a final material element with a variety of complex structural properties, thereby reducing material costs. , A method capable of simplifying the manufacturing process is provided. Engineering design materials made by this specification include, but are not limited to, footwear (and, for example, athletic footwear), apparel, sports equipment (eg, lacrosse stick nets, protective sports equipment, etc.), and complex It can be utilized in any number of products and industries, including other products that require flexible textile construction. In addition to use within the sports and fashion industries, such structures may also be useful in the automotive, aerospace, and consumer goods industries, for example.

More specifically, the methods and systems described herein can be applied to fabrics/textiles, and to one of the textiles within the embroidered area without substantially changing the nature of the textile within the non-embroidered area. Provided are one or more embroidery patterns that can selectively and discretely change one or more properties. As a result, a single textile can be modified to provide a variety of complex structural properties with minimal added embroidery thread (which limits the additional weight of the material, Reduce the manufacturing steps and effort required to create the required complex structural properties). In operation, the addition of an elongated embroidery element (i.e., an embroidery element having a length substantially greater than its width) onto one or more base materials of the shoe upper, with limited additional weight, And in the area where the embroidery is added and without the embroidered elongate element being substantially apart from the embroidery element or substantially affecting the structural properties of the base material in a direction substantially different from the longitudinal direction of the embroidery element In the longitudinal direction across the base material, the base material can be provided with structural stability, reduced stretch, increased stiffness, increased strength, and other structural benefits. This provides a mechanism for adding controlled structural benefits to the base material without having to add additional material or structural elements onto the base material.

The embroidery process can be performed manually or, preferably, using a mechanical embroidery machine. Using a mechanized embroidery process allows efficient and accurate embroidery of structural elements in an automated fashion. Embroidery can be performed using standard embroidery processes, as appropriate. In one embodiment, embroidery is performed using a mechanical embroidery process that utilizes a bobbin thread that extends onto the inner surface of the substrate adjacent the first fiber to hold the embroidery thread in place. It The bobbin thread can include or consist essentially of materials such as thermoplastic polyurethane, polyester, nylon, and/or natural fibers. In one embodiment, the bobbin is at least partially fused to the inner surface of the substrate through the application of at least one of heat and pressure (either indirectly through the outer surface or directly to the inner surface). You can This can be beneficial, for example, in providing a smoother surface on the inside of the substrate and providing a more reliable and stable stitch for embroidery.

In various embodiments, the material for the substrate comprises other fabrics, such as textile or knitted materials, woven materials, non-woven materials, scrims, or any other suitable fabric material, or essentially It can consist of it. Alternatively, the base layer can be formed from a film or sheet or polymer substrate (eg, TPU film) or any other material that can provide structural stability to the embroidery thread. In some embodiments, the base material can be formed from multiple layers of material. The base layer or layers include, but are not limited to, polyester, nylon, spandex or other elastic material, natural fibers (eg, cotton or wool), natural or synthetic leather, blends thereof, thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), Or it can be made from materials such as any other suitable material for use in the construction of footwear uppers. In some embodiments, a layer of material can be positioned over the embroidery layer or a portion thereof, in addition to, or instead of, the base layer below the embroidery portion. The cover layer or layers are formed from a transparent or opaque material (which may be the same as or different from the base material) depending on whether the embroidery fibers are desired to be visible below the cover layer. be able to.

In one embodiment, the upper can further include one or more inner liner layers positioned between the inner surface of the base layer and the wearer's foot of the shoe. The present inner liner may be fully attached (eg, joined, sewn, etc.) to the substrate, locally attached to it at distinctly different locations, or not attached to it. In addition, one or more cover layers can be similarly positioned across the base layer and embroidery layer on the outer surface of the upper.

In one embodiment, the embroidered portion can be incorporated into non-slip footwear such as soccer or football boots. In alternative embodiments, other types of competitive footwear such as track spikes, trail shoes, running shoes, training shoes, tennis shoes, golf shoes, etc. may also incorporate one or more embroidery portions. In further alternative embodiments, other types of footwear, such as safety footwear, fashion footwear, etc., may also be formed, at least in part, from the embroidery structure.

The thread may be embroidered on the substrate while holding it flat or substantially flat, after which the embroidery material can be incorporated into a footwear article or other structure. For example, one or more threads can be embroidered on a sheet of material that is held securely within the embroidery machine during the embroidery process. After embroidering the required pattern on the sheet, the footwear shell pattern, or a portion thereof, can be cut from the sheet for incorporation into the footwear article. Alternatively, the material substrate can be removably placed on the footwear last or other three-dimensional mounting element and the thread can then be directly embroidered on the molded material on the mounting element.

1A-1C show a stretched embroidery element 10 formed from threads 15 extending along a stretch axis “x”. The thread 15 is embroidered on a base material (not shown) in a zigzag stitch, and a first plurality of stitches 20 crosses the elongate embroidery element 10 at a _first angle (α ₁ ) with respect to the transverse axis “y”. A second plurality of stitches 25 extending across the directional width “w” crosses the width “w” of the elongated embroidery element 10 at a _second angle (α ₂ ) with respect to the lateral axis “y”. And extend to return. In one embodiment, the average angle (α ₃ of each zigzag stitch that can be used to define the angle of embroidery stitching with respect to the transverse axis “y” at a given position along the extension axis of the extension embroidery element 10. ) Is therefore (α ₁ +α ₂ )/2. In an alternative embodiment, the angle of the first stitch 20 (α ₁ ) or the angle of the second stitch 25 (α ₂ ) is at a given position along the stretch axis of the stretch embroidery element 10 at a stretch axis “x”. Or it can be used to define the general angle of embroidery stitching with respect to the lateral axis "y". The angle can be calculated relative to the lateral axis "y" or the extension axis "x", as appropriate.

The stretchable embroidery element 10 is formed from a plurality of first stitches 20 and second stitches 25 extending across a width "w" in a zigzag pattern, the width "w" being at a given location. Is determined in the direction perpendicular to the longitudinal extension axis "x" of. The resulting structural properties of the stretch embroidery element 10 are: embroidery stitching angles (α ₁ , α ₂ , α ₃ ), stitching width “w”, (first angle (α ₁ ) And a second angle (α ₂ ), which may be defined by the number of stitches per centimeter), and the density of the stitches, and used to form the stretchable embroidery element 10. It can be controlled through the selection of several parameters associated with embroidery stitching, including the structure and performance properties of the thread 15 or threads.

For example, changes in the stitch angle (α ₁ , α ₂ , α ₃ ) of the embroidery stitch with respect to the stretch axis “x” and the transverse axis “y” may affect both the aesthetic and/or structural properties of the stretch embroidery element 10. Varying and increasing the average angle of embroidery stitching can change the density of thread material in the resulting stretch embroidery element 10. For example, FIG. 2A, while showing a part of the extension embroidered element 10 having a stitch angle alpha ₃ of 0 °, Fig. 3A shows a portion of the elongated embroidered element 10 having a 55 ° stitch angle alpha ₃ (where , The distance between each first stitch 20 and second stitch 25 remains the same). In alternative embodiments, 0° up to 75° or more, or about 20° to about 70°, or about 30° to about 60°, or about 40° to about 50°, or, for example, 45°. Any suitable embroidery angle may be utilized, such as the angle (α ₁ , α ₂ , or α ₃ ). Any other suitable angle or range of angles may be utilized depending on the particular construction and aesthetic properties required.

The stitch configuration of FIG. 3A, when compared to FIG. 2A, results in a more densely sewn stretch embroidery element 10 with more thread material incorporated into a given area of the embroidery element. Providing a longer stitch length across the width "w". This in turn will increase the structural effect of the stretch embroidery element 10 on the underlying base material, while also providing the stretch embroidery element 10 with a different aesthetic appearance.

In one embodiment, changing the dimensions of the thread 15 changes the structure and/or aesthetic properties of the resulting stretch embroidery element 10, and larger thread diameters result in thread material in the resulting stretch embroidery element 10. Can result in increased density. FIG. 4A shows, for example, an embroidery pattern similar to that of FIG. 3A, but the thread 15 has twice the diameter of that of thread 15 of FIG. 3A, thereby providing a closer or continuous material appearance and A stretched embroidery element 10 having a structure is provided.

The thread 15 or threads used to form the stretchable embroidery element 10 can be monofilament type threads, multifilament threads, wound multi-component threads (eg, fusible strands wound with non-fusible strands). Associated) and/or coated yarns. Exemplary materials that may be used for the yarn include, but are not limited to, natural fibers, synthetic fibers, and/or thermoplastics (eg, TPU, polyester, nylon, etc.). In one embodiment, the yarn is a TPU monofilament or multifilament yarn. In another embodiment, the yarn is formed as a monofilament or multifilament core coated, sheathed, or otherwise surrounded by a thermoplastic (eg, TPU) coating.

In one embodiment, depending on the embroidery in which the thread is sewn to the base material, the thread may be heat treated to fuse or partially fuse the thread to the base material. The extent to which the yarn is fused to the base material can be controlled through the choice of temperature, time of exposure, and pressure applied to the yarn during fusion. Fusion of the yarn to the base material can be applied through a plate or other element that applies heat and pressure to the entire base layer or a portion thereof. Alternatively, the thread may be localized heat/pressure that may be associated with the embroidery machine, for example, such that the fusing element follows the stitch head to fuse the thread to the base material immediately or substantially immediately after sewing. It can be fused to the substrate through the use of an application mechanism. If the yarn comprises or consists essentially of thermoplastic monofilament or multifilament yarn, the yarn material will melt and bond to the base material to form the final stretched embroidery element. In one embodiment, if the thread comprises or consists essentially of an inner core surrounded by a thermoplastic coating, the thread leaves the inner core substantially unchanged as an elongated thread embroidered into the base material, The outer coating may be melted, solidified and heat fused in such a way as to form a protective cover over the embroidery core that holds the thread in place on the surface of the base material. In one embodiment, the base material may include a material or treatment adapted to bond or otherwise adhere the embroidery thread to the base material upon application. In one embodiment, an outer skin may be laid (and, for example, bonded or otherwise laminated over) over the embroidery and base material to provide a protective cover for the embroidery.

Upon application, the heat of melting the thread 15 is associated with the stretchable embroidery element 10, for example when further securing the thread to the base material, providing a protective cover over the thread to reduce damage to the embroidery through attrition. It may be beneficial in joining adjacent threads together to provide a more uniform structure and/or in modifying the aesthetics of the embroidery thread. In one embodiment, the entire embroidery thread can be fused or partially fused to the base material. In an alternative embodiment, only selective portions of the yarn are fused or partially fused to the substrate.

Controlling thread fusing and melting, along with thread diameter and stitch angle selection, allows for fully closed/continuous closure of material from open and clearly sewn through through a partially fused embroidery pattern. A wide range of structural properties and aesthetic appearance can be created, spanning blocks. For example, FIG. 2B shows stretched embroidery element 10 of FIG. 2A after application of heat and pressure to fuse thread 15 to the base material. In this embodiment, the embroidery pattern created by the first stitch 20 and the second stitch 25 of the fused thread 15 is still clearly visible.

FIG. 3B shows the elongated embroidery element 10 of FIG. 3A after application of heat and pressure to fuse the threads 15 to the base material. In this embodiment, the effect of the increased stitch angle (α ₃ =55 ^o ) is effective such that the first stitch 20 and the second stitch 25 are partially blended together depending on the bond. To bring the first stitch 20 and the second stitch 25 closer together.

FIG. 4B shows the elongated embroidery element 37 of FIG. 4A after application of heat and pressure to fuse the threads 30 to the base material. In this embodiment, the effect of stitch angle (α ₃ ) and thread thickness is that the first stitch 20 and the second stitch 25 are both substantially completely compounded, depending on the bond, and substantially in appearance. Effectively bringing the first stitch 20 and the second stitch 25 together close enough to form a stretch element 37 that is uniform. In embodiments where the thread is formed of a completely meltable and fusible material, the structure of the present elongate element 37 may be homogeneous or substantially homogeneous in form. In the embodiment in which the thread is formed from an outer coating of fusible and fusible material surrounding a core, which has a melting point such that it does not melt at the temperature required to melt the outer coating, the resulting elongate element 37. Has a uniform or substantially uniform outer structure appearance, but the core of the thread 15 will be oriented according to the embroidery pattern in the uniform outer layer.

In an alternative embodiment, the embroidery material can be replaced with ink or other treatment to provide a purely aesthetic treatment to the material. In another embodiment, the embroidery material can be replaced with a laid fiber, film, foam (puff) print, laminate, or other structural material to provide both structural and aesthetic treatment to the material. ..

The structural properties of the embroidery material according to the invention can be controlled both by the properties of the individual elongate embroidery elements themselves and the arrangement and density of groups of elongate embroidery elements with respect to one another on the base material. For example, reducing the distance or gap (“g”) between adjacent stretch embroidery elements 10 and thus increasing the density of stretch embroidery elements 10 within a set area of embroidery material is a function of the nature of the embroidery material. It will increase the effectiveness of the group of stretch embroidery elements 10. By way of example, the base material 40 of FIG. 5A incorporates a plurality of discrete discrete elongate embroidery elements 10 having a width “w” and a gap “g ₁ ”, thereby providing four discrete within a given area. Resulting in embroidery material 45 having spaced apart elongated embroidery elements 10 (each spaced apart elongated embroidery element 10 has a zigzag type stitch pattern having a defined stitch angle and stitch length, thereby distinctly different). While the base material 40 of FIG. 5B incorporates a plurality of elongate embroidery elements 10 having a width “w” and a gap “g ₂ ”(g ₂ is greater than g ₁ ), Thereby, an embroidery material 55 having only two elongate embroidery elements 10 in the same area is provided. As a result, the properties of each discrete individual stretch embroidery element 10 are the same, and the embroidery material 45 of FIG. 5A is more resistant to stretching along the x-axis than the embroidery material 55 of FIG. 5B. And potentially will be more resistant to flexion. However, both the embroidery material 45 of FIG. 5A and the embroidery material 55 of FIG. 5B do not have a continuous element that limits extension along its axis, but rather a plurality of discrete elements with an elastic base material unmodified therebetween. Due to the fact that the element is present, it will retain a reasonable degree of stretch and flexibility along the y-axis (i.e., at an angle substantially perpendicular to the direction of extension of the stretch embroidery element 10). Any reduction in stretch along the y-axis will depend on at least one of the respective density, width “w”, stitch angle, and material properties of the stretch embroidery element 10. In one embodiment, the resistance to stretching of the embroidery material at an angle between the x-axis and the y-axis is smoothed from a maximum resistance to stretching (along the x-axis) to a minimum resistance to stretching (along the y-axis). The specific resistance to expansion and contraction at any given angle varies with at least one of the density, width "w", stitch angle, and material properties of the stretchable embroidery element 10, as well as the expansion and contraction properties of the base material itself. Will depend. In various embodiments, the elongate structuring element is adapted to reduce stretch to different extents in different directions relative to the elongate axis, depending on factors such as width, stitch angle, yarn properties, and/or stitch density. be able to.

In one embodiment, the base material may be manufactured prior to embroidery so that it has the same or substantially the same resistance to stretching in all directions. Thus, the variation in resistance to stretching of the embroidery material depends entirely or substantially entirely on the nature of the stretchable embroidery element 10. In an alternative embodiment, the base material, or a portion thereof, has different resistance to stretching at different angles, and embroidery of the stretchable embroidery element 10 on the base material causes those variations in resistance to stretching to be demanded. Can be manufactured to modify.

An example of the effect of positioning elongated embroidery element 10 on the base material can be seen in FIGS. 6A and 6B. FIG. 6A shows three variations of test samples of embroidery material (“A”, “B”, and “C”), each test sample having four stretched embroidery elements 10 of TPU yarns spaced above it. It is formed from a base material 40 (in this case a synthetic leather material) that has been embroidered apart by "g". Each elongated embroidery element 10 has a stitch density of 20 stitches per centimeter and a stitch angle (α ₁ ) of 45 degrees with respect to the transverse axis. The stretched embroidery element 10 of sample "A" has a width "w" of 1.5 mm, the stretched embroidery element 10 of sample "B" has a width "w" of 4 mm, and the stretched sample "C". The embroidery element 10 has a width "w" of 8 mm.

FIG. 6B stretches the test samples by 20% over their unstretched length for each of the test samples (“A”, “B”, and “C”) and in addition for the sample of non-embroidered base material. 3 shows a graph 60 of average force (in pounds) required to force. As can be seen, the addition of stretch embroidery elements 10 of any width to the base material significantly increases the resistance of the embroidery material to stretching compared to a comparable sample of non-embroidered material. In addition, if all other factors remain constant, the resistance to stretching of the embroidery material is directly related to the width "w" of the stretchable embroidery element 10, and increasing width "w" is the resistance to stretching. Correlates with an increase. In the embodiment shown, the relationship between stretched embroidery element width and embroidery material resistance to stretch is somewhat logarithmic/nearly logarithmic in form, and resistance to stretch with respect to the base material covered by a single layer of the embroidery element. Reaches a maximum when the width "w" of each embroidery element is equal to the gap "g" between the elements, which results in the entire embroidery material being covered in the embroidery. In some embodiments, the resistance to stretching of the embroidery material is increased by overlapping additional adjacent layers of embroidery elements, and/or by increasing the width "w", and/or It can be further increased by reducing the gap “g”.

In one embodiment, as shown in FIG. 6A, the embroidery material is formed from one or more base layers on which a plurality of elongate embroidery elements 10 are embroidered as straight parallel elements in a regularly distributed array. This allows an embroidery material to be created that has consistent or substantially consistent properties in a set direction across the entire area of the embroidery material. In an alternative embodiment, the stretch properties of different portions of embroidery material vary by varying the properties of the single discrete stretch embroidery elements 10 along their length and/or adjoining within different regions of the embroidery material. By varying the relationships between the stretch embroidery elements 10, they can be controlled and differentiated.

In one embodiment, as shown in FIGS. 7A-7B, stretch embroidery element 100 changes direction along its length, thereby changing the primary direction of resistance to stretching along the length of the element. It can be formed by using a stretching axis. FIG. 7A shows a dimensional schematic representation of a stretch embroidery element 100 having a primary stretch axis 105, a first side edge 110, and a second side edge 115. The embroidery stitch angle (α) is locally calculated as the angle between the direction of the embroidery stitch 120 and the direction of the lateral axis at each location along the extension axis 105. In the embodiment of FIGS. 7A and 7B, the direction of the primary stretch axis 105 varies smoothly along the length of the stretch embroidery element 100. This can be advantageous, for example, in preventing high stress and/or strain points in the material (which can result from sudden changes in stretch over short distances), during which the embroidery process is It may be able to be performed more rapidly (without the time delay associated with rapidly reorienting the embroidery machine to account for abrupt changes). In an alternative embodiment, one or more abrupt/significant changes in direction at a point (or a very short distance) may be primary if the abrupt change in direction may be beneficial for structural and/or aesthetic reasons. In addition to, or instead of, a smooth change in the direction of extension axis 105, it can be incorporated into extension embroidery element 100.

As a result of variations in the orientation of the elongate embroidery element 100 along its length, the primary direction of resistance to expansion and contraction in a particular portion of embroidery material will be different for objects (eg, shoe uppers) into which the embroidery material is incorporated. The moieties can be controlled to provide targeted and customized structural properties. In addition, the amount of stretch resistance can be varied along the length of the stretch embroidery element 100 by changing the width "w" of the embroidery at different locations along the stretch axis. For example, as shown in FIG. 7B, stretchable embroidery element 100 has embroidery having a relatively narrow portion 120 that provides a first degree of elasticity and a relatively wide portion 125 that provides a second degree of elasticity. The second stretch may be less than the first stretch and the width, and thus the stretch, may vary smoothly from a relatively narrow portion 120 to a relatively wide portion 125. In one embodiment, the relatively narrow portion 120 can have a width "w" of less than about 4 mm or even less than about 2 mm, while the relatively wide portion 125 has a width of greater than about 4 mm. be able to. In some embodiments, the relatively narrow portion 120 has a width "w" that is less than about 75%, or less than about 50%, or even less than about 30% of the width "w" of the relatively wider portion 125. Can have

In addition to the change in the direction of the primary stretch axis 105 and the width "w" of the stretch embroidery element 100, other physical properties of the stretch embroidery element 100 also locally change the structural and aesthetic properties of the material. It can be varied along the length of the stretch embroidery element 100. For example, FIG. 7C illustrates first and third regions (102 and 103) having a first stitch density (and including a relatively narrow portion 120) and a second stitch density above the first stitch density. A second region 104 having (and including a relatively wide portion 125). The effect of the reduced stitch density in the first region 102 and the third region 103 reduces the resistance of those regions to stretching to an extent greater than that provided by the reduced width "w", This is to increase the difference in stretching resistance between the first region 102 and the third region 103 on the one hand and the second region 104 on the other hand.

In the embodiment of FIGS. 8A and 8B, the stretch embroidery element 100 is configured to vary stitch angle from region to region. In this embodiment, the stretchable embroidery element 100 has a relatively narrow portion 106 having a first lower stitch angle "α _low "and a relatively wider portion having a second higher stitch angle "α _high ". 107, the stitch angle smoothly transitions between “α _low ”and “α _high ”in the transition region 108. The effect of this variation in stitch angle exceeds the resistance to stretch from region to region, in one embodiment, that provided by variation in width "w" alone with increasing stitch angle towards the primary extension axis 105. Further variation to the extent, thereby aligning the yarn with the primary stretch axis 105 to a greater extent, increasing resistance to stretching along the primary stretch axis 105 in the region of higher stitch angle.

Through careful selection of orientation, width, stitch density, and/or stitch angle of elongated embroidery element 100, and variation of one or more of these structural features along the length of elongated embroidery element 100, the embroidery material Localized strength, stretch resistance, attrition properties (ie, more embroidery material in an area contributes to more attrition resistance for materials in that area), and aesthetic properties determine materials with unique structural properties. Can be carefully controlled and adapted to provide. These structural features can be modified smoothly from region to region or can change rapidly from one place to the next, depending on the specific structural requirements of each region of the material. The ability to modify and control material performance characteristics through careful selection of embroidery patterns on the base material is also efficient in a single embroidery process without the need for additional complexity, costly and time consuming manufacturing steps. And enables the rapid production of unique engineering design materials. Embroidery is applied over a large portion of the base material to affect the structural properties of large areas of the final material, and/or to provide specific localized structural benefits, a limited area of the base material. Can be applied locally to. FIG. 9 shows an embroidery element 150 formed, for example, as a closed loop for forming an eyelet through which a lacing element may be located, wherein an elongated embroidery element 100 causes the lacing element to tear the material when tightened. To provide strength to the eyelet to prevent

An exemplary stretch embroidery element 100 having abrupt changes between stitch properties in different regions of the stretch embroidery element 100 is shown in FIG. In this embodiment, the stretch embroidery element 100 includes a first region 160 having a first width, a first stitch angle, and a first stitch density, a second width, a second stitch angle, and a second stitch angle. A second region 165 having a stitch density of 2 and a third region 170 having a third width, a third stitch angle, and a third stitch density. In alternative embodiments, any suitable set of stitch properties and threads can be used in any localized portion of the stretch embroidery element 100, with abrupt or smooth transitions between regions as desired. ..

In addition to varying the stitching arrangement and properties of the stretchable embroidery element 100, the embroidery threads sewn on the base material change the stretchable embroidery element 100 to change the structure and/or aesthetic properties of the embroidery material. Can be varied along the length of. In one embodiment, different regions of stretch embroidery element 100 may use different colored threads. FIG. 8B shows, for example, stretched embroidery element 100 with different thread colors corresponding to different stitch angles (high stitch angle “α _high ”region 107 has first color 130 and low stitch angle “α _low ”. Area 106 has a second color 135 and transition area 108 has a third color 140). In various embodiments, different thread colors can be associated with different structural features and/or simply used to create a unique aesthetic for the embroidery material. In a further embodiment, threads with different materials and/or structural properties can have different colors.

The threads can be dyed or otherwise treated to the appropriate color prior to embroidery. Alternatively, the threads can be embroidered on the base material and then dyed, screen printed, or otherwise colored to create the final color pattern. For example, a thread adapted to receive a coloring material (eg, a type of dye or pigment) may be created on the embroidery thread after embroidery without a pattern affecting the color of the base material itself. In addition, it can be embroidered on a base material that is not affected by the coloring material.

In one embodiment, the stretch embroidery element 172 can be formed from two or more threads that are embroidered over one another to create the final structure. These two or more threads may have the same color (to create a unique aesthetic and/or structural effect for the layered embroidery area), thread material and properties, and/or stitch properties, or different colors, It may have yarn material and properties, and/or different stitch properties. FIG. 11 shows an elongate embroidery element 172 having, for example, a first thread 175 having a first stitch angle and stitch density with a smoothly varying primary elongation axis and a smoothly varying stitch width. A second thread 180 is embroidered over the first thread 175 so that the second thread 180 follows the same primary extension axis 105 and has the same smoothly varying stitch width but different colors, stitch angles. , And stitch density. Forming an embroidery element from layered embroidery threads can, for example, increase the strength and other structural properties of the final stretch embroidery element 100, while also providing unique aesthetics for the final embroidery.

One embodiment of the present invention includes embroidery material that incorporates two or more different embroidery patterns, each embroidery pattern including one or more distinctly distinct elongated embroidery elements. These different embroidery patterns are laid separately, one pattern at a time, or one or more embroidery machine heads are used, so that subsequent patterns are embroidered over underlying patterns to create a multi-element embroidery material. And can be embroidered at the same time. Creating an embroidery material using more than one embroidery pattern has localized directional structural properties (eg, resistance to stretching) in multiple directions at different locations, and different resistances in each direction. Allows the formation of materials with properties. This can allow the formation of a material that stretches differently at different locations on the material when subjected to stretching forces in any given direction along the surface plane of the material.

One exemplary embroidery material that incorporates multiple embroidery patterns can be seen in FIG. In this embodiment, the embroidery material 200 has a first embroidery pattern 210 (including a plurality of first elongate embroidery elements 215) and a second embroidery pattern 220 (a plurality of second elongate embroidery elements 225) thereon. (Including) is added to the base layer 205. The first embroidery patterns 210 are different from each other in terms of the precise path of their primary extension axes and the variation of width over the length of those paths, but are generally oriented in a first primary direction 230, Generally, a first elongate embroidery element 215 is associated with the adjacent elongate embroidery element 215 in form. Similarly, the second embroidery patterns 220 differ from each other in terms of the precise path of their primary extension axes and the width variation over the length of those paths, but generally in the second primary direction 235. Included is a second stretch embroidery element 225 that is oriented and generally associated with the stretch embroidery element 225 in a configuration adjacent thereto. The second stretch embroidery elements 225 of FIG. 12 diverge relative to one another as they traverse the first stretch embroidery elements 215 and traverse the adjacent first stretch embroidery elements 215.

In alternative embodiments, the first embroidery pattern 210 and the second embroidery pattern 220 each include any suitable arrangement and orientation of elongate embroidery elements, and the physical properties of each discrete elongate embroidery element (eg, thread material, The relationship between thread color, primary stretch axis direction, stitch angle, stitch density, and stitch width) and adjacent stretch embroidery elements can vary depending on the specific performance requirements of the embroidery material. For example, the density of a group of stretch embroidery elements within a given area of the base material (which is inversely proportional to the size of the gap between adjacent stretch embroidery elements) causes a greater change in structural properties (such as increased resistance to stretching). Can be increased within the required area (ie, by reducing the gap/space between adjacent elements). Conversely, stretched embroidery elements can be further spaced in areas where smaller changes in structural properties are required.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the embroidery material is incorporated into and forms at least a portion of an upper for footwear articles, such as athletic shoes, and the specific structure and arrangement of the embroidery is athletic for wearing the shoe. Can be adapted to benefit the person. For example, the embroidery upper element may include running shoes (such as track shoes, road running shoes, or cross-country running shoes) and/or the particular type of athletic activity to be performed (eg, sprint, medium distance, long distance). , Off-road running, etc.) and specifically configured to provide performance properties and benefits. Embroidery uppers are primarily used for straight line competition activities and movements (eg running) and/or competition activities requiring significant cutting or other competition movements (eg basketball, baseball, softball, soccer, American football, field). Hockey, ice hockey, ice skating, speed skating, rugby, tennis, squash, racquetball, skateboarding, cycling, etc.). Other athletic movements such as jumping, chewing, kicking, throwing, turning, turning, etc. are also considered in creating an embroidery upper that enhances or supports a unique combination of performance characteristics of a particular athlete and/or activity. Can be done. In addition, embroidery uppers may be associated with individual athletes or a subset of athletes (eg, defenders, midfielders, or attackers in soccer, or with specific positions in the sport such as pitchers, catchers, or fielders for baseball). , Or athletes with common physical characteristics such as weight) can be customized to provide support and other performance benefits specifically associated with them.

An exemplary competition shoe 300, in this case a soccer spike shoe, incorporating an embroidery upper portion 310 is shown in FIG. The shoe 300 includes an upper 315 and the sole 320 is attached to its bottom portion 325. The shoe 300 includes a forefoot region 330, a midfoot region 335, a heel region 340, and an opening 345 in which the foot can be received. The shoe further includes an outer side 350 and an inner side (not shown). Sole 320 includes an elastic plate (eg, TPU, nylon, and/or EVA plate) that includes an array of non-slip static friction elements 355. In an alternative embodiment, sole 320 is formed from a material (eg, grounded EVA) that has suitable performance, traction, wear, and durability properties that allow it to be used as the grounding surface of a shoe sole. May include a midsole. In alternative embodiments, one or more outsole elements (eg, rubber outsole elements) may be attached to the underside of the midsole to provide suitable grounding characteristics for shoe 300.

The shoe 300 also includes a shoe closure system 332 in the midfoot region 335 at the top of the instep 337, which includes lacing elements 338 extending through a plurality of lace holes 339. In alternative embodiments, any suitable shoe closure system such as, but not limited to, a hook and loop closure system, a strap-type closure system, or any other suitable footwear closure system as known in the art. May be used. In one embodiment, the upper 315 may be a slip-on construction, for example, within the wearer's midfoot region 335 to retain the foot within the shoe without the need for a separate closure system. A bootie-type structure may be included that extends elastically over the top of the foot.

Here, the embroidery upper portion 310 forms a localized portion of the midfoot region 335 of the upper 315 of the athletic shoe 300 and the remaining uppers 315 are non-embroidered. In alternative embodiments, the upper 315 has one or more localized embroidery upper portions 310 within any suitable portion of the shoe 300, or embroidery covering all, substantially all, or most of the upper 315. It may have an upper portion 310. The embroidery upper portion 310 includes a first embroidery pattern 360 and a second embroidery pattern 365. The first embroidery pattern 360 includes four elongate embroidery elements 370 extending along a smoothly curving primary elongation axis from a region of the upper 315 proximate the bottom portion 325 to a region of the upper closure 332. Thereby, it provides additional strength and resistance to stretching around the upper around the midfoot 335, ensuring a tight and stable fit with the upper within that area, depending on the tightening of the shoe 300 against the foot. The second embroidery pattern 365 traverses the first embroidery pattern 360 and extends through the midfoot region 335 in a diverging pattern in a direction that extends substantially from the forefoot 330 to the heel 340 of the shoe 300 to provide five extensions. Embroidery elements 375 are included, and these elongated embroidery elements 375 provide resistance to support and stretching with respect to the upper substantially in the direction of the longitudinal axis of the shoe.

In the embodiment of FIG. 13, the embroidery upper portion 310 does not extend to the edge of the upper 315 (ie, it is the lower edge 380 and the shoe closure system 332 and the foot opening at the bottom portion 325 of the upper proximate the sole 320). Localized in the region of upper 315 away from both upper edges 385 proximate section 345). In an alternative embodiment, the one or more embroidery patterns may include one or more elongate embroidery elements that extend to one or more edges of upper 310, and in some embodiments, in one or more embroidery patterns. Each elongate embroidery element may include one or both distal ends 390 terminating at an edge of upper 315.

The shoe 300 of FIG. 13 includes two embroidery patterns 360, 365 that are embroidered on the base material 395 of the upper 315 one layer at a time in an overlaid arrangement. In alternative embodiments, the embroidery upper may include only a single embroidery pattern, or may include three or more embroidery patterns that are placed over each other, or may be located in different regions of upper 315 and partially over each other. A plurality of different embroidery patterns can be included, either placed or separated and not placed on top of each other.

An exemplary shoe 400 having a first embroidery pattern 405 and a second embroidery pattern 410 overlying the base layer 395 of the upper 315 and extending over substantially all of the upper 315 is shown in FIGS. 14 and 15. Be done. In this embodiment, the shoe 400 includes a shoe closure system 332 that includes a lace 338 that extends across the bootie type collar 415 within the leg opening area 345. The bootie type collar 415 can be formed of an elastic or non-elastic material, for example, an expandable knit material or a synthetic leather material.

The first embroidery pattern 405 extends upwardly from the lower edge 380 of the upper 315 and is adjacent to the shoe closure system 332 and the foot opening 345 (in the rear portion of the heel area 340 or the midfoot area 335). 385 (between the main body of the upper 315 and the booty type collar 415) or over the top of the shoe 400, thus lower edge 380 on the inner side 425 to lower on the outer side 430. Includes a plurality of first elongate embroidery elements 420 that either extend as a single element to the lateral edge 380 (in the anterior portion of the midfoot area 335 and within the forefoot area 330). Each of the first elongate embroidery elements 420 is oriented generally perpendicular to the longitudinal axis 432 of the shoe 400, and the specific direction of the primary elongate axis of each first elongate embroidery element 420 is along its length. It changes smoothly. The local width "w" of each first stretch embroidery element 420 also varies smoothly along its length. The exact direction of the primary stretch axis of each first stretch embroidery element 420 is such that the embroidery pattern 405 forms an ordered group of discrete stretch embroidery elements 420, but different structural properties may result from embroidery in different regions of the upper 315. As created, there is a difference between each adjacent first elongate embroidery element 420.

In one embodiment, one or more embroidery patterns can extend into at least a portion of bootie type collar 415. In some embodiments, the base material can be formed from a single piece of unitary material. In an alternative embodiment, the base material is formed from a plurality of material portions that are sewn, joined, or otherwise connected together and the embroidery may extend over at least some of the plurality of material portions. it can.

The second embroidery pattern 410 includes a plurality of second elongated embroidery elements 435 that extend across the upper 315 to the first embroidery pattern 405 in different patterns and directions. More specifically, the second embroidery pattern 410 extends across the top of the shoe 400, and thus the lower edge 380 on the inner upper 425 to the lower edge 380 on the outer 430 (in front of the midfoot region 335). A plurality of second elongate embroidery elements 435, which extend as a single element (into the part and forefoot area 330) and extend around the upper 315 in a closed loop without extending to the edges of the upper 315. A second stretchable embroidery element 440 to In alternative embodiments, any combination of closed-loop extension elements and open-loop elements extending or not extending to one or more edges of the upper can be used.

The second elongate embroidery element 440 extends within the heel region 340 in a path generally parallel to the longitudinal axis of the shoe 400, thereby providing resistance to stretching around the heel in that direction. On the other hand, the second elongate embroidery element 435 extends more vertically over the top of the shoe 400, thereby providing resistance to stretching around the midfoot region 335 to assist in a secure fit of the shoe 400. To do.

The second stretch embroidery element 435 has an average width that is smaller than the average width of the first stretch embroidery element 420 and has a maximum width that is smaller than the maximum width of the first stretch embroidery element 420. As a result, the second embroidery pattern 410 has a smaller effect on the stretchability of the upper 315 than the first embroidery pattern 405.

In an alternative embodiment, one or more of the elongate embroidery elements in the embroidery pattern may be curved along at least a portion of their primary elongate axis, while one or more of the embroidery elements. May be straight or substantially straight along the entire length of its primary extension axis. In one embodiment, some adjacent or non-adjacent stretch embroidery elements have the same direction of their primary stretch axis along their length or a portion thereof, while other stretch embroidery elements within the embroidery pattern. Can have different primary extension axis directions.

The shoe 400 also includes a third embroidery pattern 450 on the outer side 430 within the midfoot region 335 of the upper 315. More specifically, the third embroidery pattern 450 is a localized brand logo/identification mark. In alternative embodiments, any graphical and/or alphanumeric brand identification marks, aesthetic features, and/or other structural elements may be formed from the embroidery pattern on upper 315.

A defined structure, each of which includes a primary stretch axis with potentially varying direction along its length, potentially varying width, and consistent or potentially varying stitch density and stitch angle. By forming the embroidery pattern from a plurality of discrete, discrete, spaced apart elongate elements, the embroidery pattern substantially retains the structural properties of the upper material in different directions of stretch and in different portions of the material. It can be configured to provide highly directional and highly localized structural support and elasticity to the shoe upper without change. In contrast, traditional embroidery, whether or not used to provide unique aesthetics to the material and/or more comprehensive structural support for the material, is described herein. It cannot provide customized, uniquely localized structural benefits that can be achieved through the application of one or more embroidery patterns.

In one embodiment, the one or more embroidery patterns match, assist with, and/or stabilize one or more structural and/or performance characteristics of the footwear article during a particular athletic movement. It may be patterned to allow. By utilizing two or more distinctly different embroidery patterns on the upper of the footwear article, the upper can thus be used with minimal added material to create areas and areas other than those targeted by the embroidery pattern. It can be configured to support more than one specific athletic movement without substantially limiting the stretch and flexibility of the material in a direction. For example, physical and/or optical measurements of stresses and/or strains in various parts of the shoe upper during a specific athletic movement provide optimal areas and orientations for the positioning and orientation of material parts, such as patterns of discrete embroidery elements. The direction and magnitude of the force that is used to determine the, and measured in each part of the upper, is the direction of the primary stretch axis, the width of each embroidery element, the area (controlled by the gap between adjacent elements). The density of the group of discrete embroidery elements within, and also the stitch angle and stitch density at each localized region of the upper can be determined.

16A-16D show experimental or theoretical modeling of materials when subjected to specific physical effects (such as some of the upper materials for shoes being stressed/strained during athletic movements). 6 illustrates an exemplary method for identifying and designing an embroidery pattern based on digitized force or strain data. FIG. 16A shows a grid 500 that maps material portions, where the measured or calculated force vector 505 mapped onto the grid 500 shows the force applied to the material during a physical event at each location within the grid 500. Or identify the magnitude of the distortion (indicated by the length of vector 505) and the direction (indicated by the direction of vector 505). The force vector can be a force over a period of time, a single force value at a single point in time, or a specific sample over a period of time (e.g., the maximum measured force, depending on the specific requirements of the modeled result). (Samples associated with) and the average of the directions.

This map of force vector 505 is then used to calculate and create a map for a plurality of discrete contours 510, which contour 510 traces the path of force vector 505 across grid 500, as shown in FIG. 16B. Can be traced. The thickness of the contour line 510 at a particular location along its length is calibrated for the magnitude of the force vector proximate to the contour line 510 and the wider/thicker contour line 510 along the contour line 510. Corresponding to a larger force vector 505 closer to a particular region, and a narrower/thinner contour line 510 may correspond to a smaller contour line 510 near another particular region along contour line 510. it can. In addition, the density of contours 510 in a given area (or the gap between adjacent contours 510 in a given area) also depends on the magnitude of the force vector 505 in proximity to those contours 510. A controlled, higher density of contours 510 (ie, with smaller gaps between contours 510) may correspond to a region of greater magnitude of force vector 505.

Once the appropriate contour 510 has been created based on the measured or calculated force vector 505, the embroidery pattern 515 is designed and manufactured with the discrete stretch embroidery elements 520 mapped to the generated contour 510. You can When applied to the base material 525, the present embroidery pattern 515 provides precisely targeted performance properties (eg, structural support and resistance to stretch) to the final embroidery material, which is a minimal additional material. Is optimized to provide support and stretch resistance in the required directions without adversely affecting the properties of the material in other directions and other areas of the material. In various embodiments, any suitable experimental data set and/or theoretically modeled data set determines the nature of the discrete stretch embroidery elements 520 that form the embroidery pattern 515, and may be used for specific sports or competitive movements. , And/or can be used to form customized materials for an athlete (or a group of athletes). Exemplary methods of capturing and processing data for use in generating optimized structural and performance properties for embroidery materials for incorporation into racing shoes are disclosed in US Patent Publications US 2014-0182170 and US Pat. No. 2005-0351493, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

In one embodiment of the invention, as shown in FIGS. 17A-17C, competition shoe 600 has a base layer 610 with two distinct embroidery patterns that are embroidered on base layer 610 to form final upper 605. It can be formed using the upper 605. As shown in FIG. 17A, the first embroidery pattern 615 defines the orientation of the athlete prior to the first competitive movement, in this case, the athlete lowering their feet and lowering their feet. Calculated and designed from force/stress/strain data for a cutting movement that moves substantially laterally and rapidly changes direction by leaving in substantially or at least partially opposite directions. The first embroidery pattern 615 extends in the direction substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal axis 640 of the shoe 600, and extends in the midfoot portion 625 of the shoe 600 on both the inner side 630 and the outer side 635 to provide a plurality of smoothly curved. An elongated embroidery element 620 is included, thereby providing structural stability and support for the lacing area 643 of the shoe 600. The first embroidery pattern 615 further includes a plurality of smoothly curved elongate embroidery elements 645 extending into and around the heel portion 650 of the shoe 600 on both the inner side 630 and the outer side 635, the elongate embroidery element 645. At least one of the 645 extends around the heel portion 650 and provides support for the heel portion 650. The first embroidery pattern 615 further includes a plurality of smoothly curved elongate embroidery elements 655 extending into the forefoot portion 660 of the shoe 600 on both the inner side 630 and the outer side 635, of the elongate embroidery elements 655. At least one of which extends from the outer edge 665 of the upper 605 to both ends 662 and the forefoot extension embroidery element 655 is adapted to provide directional resistance to support and stretching on the forefoot region 660. ..

The average and maximum widths of the stretch embroidery elements vary between the forefoot region 660, the metatarsal region 625, and the heel region 650, with the largest maximum width and the largest average width found in the metatarsal region 625. In an alternative embodiment, the average and/or maximum width of any one or more of the medial and/or lateral forefoot region, the metatarsal region, and/or the heel region is greater than that in other regions of the upper. An elongated embroidery element having a can be incorporated. In addition, some embodiments extend from the medial to lateral edges of the upper, or from the medial or lateral edges of the upper to the lacing/foot opening edges, or medial, lateral, forefoot, or heel edges. One or more elongate embroidery elements can be included having both ends extending to either Certain elongate embroidery elements can also extend in an open or closed loop that extends or does not extend to the edges of the upper. In one embodiment, each discrete stretch embroidery element in the embroidery pattern is separate, uncrossed, or otherwise untouched. In an alternative embodiment, two or more of the stretch embroidery elements may branch away from a single stretch embroidery element to form a branched web-like structure.

The shoe 600 further includes a second embroidery pattern 670, as shown in Figure 17B. The second embroidery pattern 670 is a second competitive movement different from the first competitive movement, in this case the athlete moves substantially forward in a sprint, lowers his foot, and then stops rapidly. Calculated and designed from force/stress/strain data for braking movements during straight running. The second embroidery pattern 670 differs from the elongated embroidery elements of the first embroidery pattern 615 in their arrangement and physical properties due to the difference in force/stress/strain considered by the second embroidery pattern 670. , A plurality of smoothly curved elongate embroidery elements 675. In various embodiments, any two or more competitive exercises may be supported by two or more distinct embroidery patterns, depending on the particular sport, competitive exercise, athlete (or group of athletes), etc. be able to.

The first embroidery pattern 615 and the second embroidery pattern 670 are combined on the upper 605 to form the final shoe 600, one of the first embroidery pattern 615 and the second embroidery pattern 670 being laid first. And the other pattern is embroidered over it. In an alternative embodiment, the first embroidery pattern 615 and the second embroidery pattern 670 are combined using two embroidery heads or allowing the formation of the two patterns as a single web-like structure. Can be embroidered at the same time, either by creating a pattern.

In one embodiment, the one or more first embroidery patterns can be formed only within a limited area or a plurality of limited areas of the shoe upper, while one or more second embroidery patterns. Are formed in different regions that overlap or do not overlap with the first embroidery pattern, or that extend or do not extend over the entire upper or substantially the entire upper. For example, FIGS. 18A-18C show a first embroidery pattern 710 formed from a plurality of first elongate embroidery elements 715 positioned within an inner metatarsal region 720 and an outer metatarsal region 725 and substantially the upper 705. 2 shows an upper 705 of an exemplary shoe 700 including a second embroidery pattern 730 formed from a plurality of second elongate embroidery elements 735 positioned all over. The resulting shoe 700 thereby has the generally directional customized support provided by the second embroidery pattern 730, and the inside of the shoe 700 as provided by the first embroidery pattern 710. An upper 705 with additional targeted support at the foot is provided.

An exemplary system for forming a shoe having a plurality of distinctly different directional embroidery patterns thereon is shown in FIGS. 19A-21B. In this embodiment, experimental data is collected from athletes wearing test shoes using sophisticated data collection techniques and equipment. The data can be used, for example, to capture and analyze material and component behavior of shoe uppers during dynamic athletic activities, such as those of digital image correlation systems (eg, Plymouth Meeting, PA, USA). It can be captured by a 3D measurement tool such as the ARAMIS(R) Digital Image Correlation System) provided by Trilion Quality Systems LLC. The Digital Image Correlation System is a non-contact and material independent measurement system that provides high resolution images and highly accurate information about the 3D shape of a component, and strain and deformation response for a test article under load or force, It provides a contour map of strain and deformation information for the material being inspected. In alternative embodiments, experimental data may be captured by strain gauges, extensometers, accelerometers, LVDTSs, laser trackers, laser scanning devices, scanning laser vibrometers, and/or other deformation tools.

In operation, the athlete performs a first athletic exercise (eg, a cutting exercise), because the experimental data provides a map of the magnitude and direction of the strain over the surface of the athlete's test shoe during the athletic exercise. Captured and analyzed by. FIG. 19A shows a strain magnitude and direction contour and vector map on the inside 805 of the shoe 800, while FIG. 19B shows the data captured for the outside 810 of the shoe 800 during the same exercise. The data includes a color scale 815 that indicates the magnitude of the measured strain at all measured locations on the shoe 800, with the highest magnitude being indicated by the first color 802 (eg, red) and the highest magnitude. The lower magnitude is indicated by the second color 803 (eg, blue) with a range of different colors and tints in between. In addition, vector 820 indicates the direction of the measured strain in a grid of locations (either regular or irregular grid) across shoe 800. The data for medial side 805 and lateral side 810 can then be combined to provide a complete data map 825 of strain magnitude and direction as measured during the first competitive movement.

Similarly, the surface of the athlete's test shoe during a second competitive exercise (eg, a braking exercise, i.e., an exercise in which the athlete lowers his or her feet to stop quickly when running forward). A strain magnitude and direction data map 830 across the strain magnitude and direction on the inner side 805 of the shoe 800 (as shown in FIG. 20A) and the outer side 810 of the shoe 800 (as shown in FIG. 20B). The resulting data map 830, generated from the contours and vector maps of the, can provide an indication of the magnitude and direction of the distortion as measured during the second athletic movement. In various embodiments, the data can be processed from a single representative data sample, or from a group of averaged or otherwise processed samples. In addition, data can be captured and processed for a single player or a group of players.

Once the data maps have been calculated for both athletic movements, these maps are global maps of the magnitude and direction of strain applied to the shoe during a representative athletic movement for a particular sport or other athletic activity. 836 can be combined (as shown in FIG. 21A). As shown in FIG. 21B, the two separate contour maps 825, 830 are then used to create distinctly different overlaid embroidery patterns for the shoe 800, with the first embroidery pattern 840 being the first. The second embroidery pattern 845 can be created based on the first data map 825, and can be formed based on the second data map 830. Other structural elements such as lace loop support holes 850 can also be designed and embroidered into the upper of shoe 800.

In various embodiments, the specific athletic activity or exercises considered and assisted by the layer or layers of patterned embroidery elements are performed by the athlete during any particular sport or sports. Can be selected to represent the most important and/or the most impactful movements. These movements may include various cutting movements, braking movements, accelerating/leaving movements, turning movements, stepping movements, jumping movements, or other movements primarily used in one or more sports. The resulting pattern of embroidery on a given shoe will therefore potentially vary significantly depending on the specific data captured for a given sport.

An exemplary arrangement of suitable embroidery patterns for different sports can be found in FIGS. 22A-22D, which shows a first embroidery pattern 965 (having a first color) and a second embroidery pattern 970 (first). 22A shows an example embroidery arrangement for football, FIG. 22B shows an example embroidery arrangement for tennis, and FIG. 22C shows training. An exemplary embroidery arrangement for shoes can be shown. As can be seen in FIGS. 22B and 22C, depending on the particular sport and athletic movement being addressed, some embroidery arrangements span most of the upper 960, but some areas (eg, the rear center of the toe area 980). It can have patterns 965, 970 that leave the forefoot region 975) substantially free of embroidery. FIG. 22D shows an embroidery arrangement for a trail running shoe, where a first embroidery pattern 965 addresses a first athletic movement (in this case, a foot strike during trail running) and a second embroidery pattern. Pattern 970 provides lace loop support.

Exemplary upper structures for soccer spike shoes incorporating multiple embroidery patterns associated with different athletic movements (cutting and braking) are shown in FIGS. 23A-23E. The upper structure includes a base layer shell 1000 on which a first embroidery pattern 1005 is sewn. A second embroidery pattern 1010 having a different configuration can also be added to the base layer shell 1000 and a third embroidery pattern with a plurality of lace eyelet support holes 1015 can also be added. The resulting upper shell 1020 having an inner side 1035 and an outer side 1040 is shown in FIG. 23E. The first embroidery pattern 1005 and the second embroidery pattern 1010 each include a discrete single stretch embroidery element 1025 and a branch stretch embroidery element 1030. A shoe 1050 incorporating the upper shell 1020 is shown in FIG.

The present invention may be embodied in other specific forms without departing from its spirit or essential characteristics. The embodiments described above are therefore to be regarded in all respects as illustrative rather than restrictive to the invention described herein. The scope of the invention is, therefore, indicated by the appended claims rather than by the foregoing description, and all changes that come within the meaning and range of equivalency of the claims are intended to be embraced therein. doing.

Claims (35)

A footwear article, wherein the footwear article has an upper and a sole structure fixed to the upper, the upper includes a first upper element, and the first upper element includes:
A base layer, the base layer having an inner surface and an opposing outer surface, the inner surface facing the interior of the footwear article, a base layer,
A first structural layer, the first structural layer comprising at least one first fiber embroidered on an outer surface of the base layer, the at least one first fiber being an outer surface of the base layer. Forming a plurality of first elongate structural elements extending over and providing discrete localized structural support to the substrate, each of the first elongate structural elements having a longitudinal direction, a lateral width, and a stitch density. And a stitch angle relative to the machine direction, at least one of a machine direction axis, a cross direction width, the stitch density, and the stitch angle in at least one of the first elongate structuring elements. A first structural layer that varies over the length of the first elongate structural element. The longitudinal and lateral widths of at least a portion of a first group of first elongate structuring elements vary over the length of a first group of first elongate structuring elements. The footwear article described. The footwear article according to claim 2, wherein at least one of the longitudinal and lateral widths varies smoothly over a section of length of the first group of first elongate structuring elements. The footwear article of claim 1, wherein the longitudinal direction of a plurality of first elongate structural elements is different than that of their adjacent first elongate structural elements. The first structural layer reduces stretch of a portion of the base layer in a direction substantially aligned with a longitudinal direction of the first elongate structural element extending across that portion of the base layer. Footwear article according to 1. The footwear of claim 5, wherein the amount of reduction in stretch of a portion of the base layer is positively related to a lateral width of the first elongate structural element extending across that portion of the base layer. Goods. The at least a portion of the at least one first fiber embroidered on the outer surface of the base layer is at least partially fused to the outer surface of the base layer through the application of at least one of heat and pressure. Footwear article according to 1. The footwear article according to claim 1, wherein each first elongate structural element comprises a different first fiber portion. The footwear article according to claim 1, wherein the first fibers include at least one of a yarn, a filament, a cord, a lace, a strand, a ribbon, and a band. The footwear article of claim 1, wherein the first fiber comprises a material selected from the group consisting of thermoplastic polyurethane, polyester, nylon, and natural fiber. At least a portion of the plurality of first elongate structural elements extends in a direction generally parallel to at least one predominant direction of strain that the final footwear article will experience during the first athletic movement. Item 1. The footwear article according to item 1. The footwear article according to claim 1, wherein the stitch density is 10 to 30 stitches per centimeter. 13. The footwear article according to claim 12, wherein the stitch density is 15 to 25 stitches per centimeter. The footwear article according to claim 1, wherein the stitch angle is 30 to 60 degrees from the longitudinal direction. Further comprising a second structural layer, the second structural layer comprising at least one second fiber embroidered on an outer surface of the base layer, the at least one second fiber being an outer surface of the base layer. Forming a plurality of second elongate structural elements extending across and providing localized structural support to the base layer, each of the second elongate structural elements having a longitudinal direction, a lateral width, and a stitch density. , A stitch angle relative to the machine direction, and at least one of a machine axis, a transverse width, the stitch density, and the stitch angle in at least one of the second elongate structuring elements. The footwear article of claim 1, wherein the footwear article varies over the length of the second elongate structural element and the arrangement of the second elongate structural elements is different from the arrangement of the first elongate structural elements. 16. The longitudinal and lateral widths of at least a portion of the first group of second elongate structuring elements vary over the length of the first group of second elongate structuring elements. The footwear article described. 16. The footwear article of claim 15, wherein at least one of the longitudinal and lateral widths varies smoothly over a section of the length of the first group of second elongate structuring elements. 16. The footwear article of claim 15, wherein the longitudinal direction of a plurality of second elongate structural elements is different than that of their adjacent second elongate structural elements. The second structural layer reduces stretch of a portion of the base layer in a direction substantially aligned with a longitudinal direction of the second elongate structural element extending across that portion of the base layer. Item 15. The footwear article according to Item 15. 20. Footwear according to claim 19, wherein the amount of stretch reduction of a portion of the base layer is positively related to the lateral width of the second elongate structuring element extending across that portion of the base layer. Goods. The at least a portion of the at least one second fiber embroidered on the outer surface of the base layer is at least partially fused to the outer surface of the base layer through the application of at least one of heat and pressure. Item 15. The footwear article according to Item 15. 16. The footwear article according to claim 15, wherein each second elongate structural element comprises a different second fiber portion. 16. The footwear article of claim 15, wherein the second fibers include at least one of yarns, filaments, cords, laces, strands, ribbons, and bands. 16. The footwear article according to claim 15, wherein the second fibers comprise the same material as the first fibers. At least a portion of the plurality of second elongate structuring elements extends in a direction generally parallel to at least one secondary direction of strain the final footwear article will undergo during a second athletic movement. The footwear article according to claim 15. 16. The footwear article of claim 15, wherein at least one of the color, material, and diameter of the first fiber is different than that of the second fiber. 16. The footwear article of claim 15, wherein the second structural layer comprises a first region extending over an outer surface of the base layer and at least a portion of the first structural layer. 28. The second structural layer further comprises a second region extending over a portion of an outer surface of the base layer, wherein the first structural layer is absent on the second region. Footwear items. 28. The footwear article of claim 27, wherein the first structural layer further comprises a region extending over a portion of an outer surface of the base layer, the second structural layer being absent thereon. Further comprising a third structural layer comprising at least one third fiber embroidered on the outer surface of the base layer over the first structural layer, the at least one third fiber of at least one lace hole The footwear article of claim 1, forming at least one of a border and an indicia. A method of forming at least a portion of an upper for a footwear article, the method comprising:
Providing a base layer, the base layer having an inner surface and an opposing outer surface;
Identifying at least one first direction of strain that the substrate will undergo during a first athletic movement in response to being incorporated into a footwear article;
Embroidering the first structural layer, said first structural layer comprising at least one first fiber on an outer surface of said base layer, said at least one first fiber being of said base layer. Forming a plurality of first elongate structural elements extending over an outer surface and extending in a direction substantially parallel to at least one first direction of the strain, providing localized structural support to the base layer; Each of the first elongate structuring elements comprises a longitudinal direction, a lateral width, a stitch density, and a stitch angle with respect to the longitudinal direction, the longitudinal direction in at least one of the first elongate structuring elements. At least one of an axis, the lateral width, the stitch density, and the stitch angle varies over the length of the first elongate structuring element;
Incorporating the base layer and the embroidered first structural layer into the upper of the footwear article. Identifying at least one second direction of strain that the base layer will undergo during a second athletic movement in response to being incorporated into the footwear article;
Embroidering a second structural layer, said second structural layer comprising at least one second fiber on an outer surface of said base layer, said at least one second fiber being Forming a plurality of second elongate structural elements extending across the outer surface of the base layer in a direction substantially parallel to at least one second direction to provide localized structural support to the base layer, and the second elongate structure. Each of the structural elements comprises a longitudinal direction, a lateral width, a stitch density, and a stitch angle relative to the longitudinal direction, the longitudinal axis in at least one of the second elongate structural elements, the lateral direction. At least one of a directional width, the stitch density, and the stitch angle varies over the length of the second elongate structuring element, and the array of second elongate structuring elements includes the first elongate structure. 32. The method of claim 31, further comprising: different from the array of elements. 32. The method of claim 31, wherein identifying the first direction of strain comprises analyzing experimental strain data at multiple locations on the outer surface of the footwear article during a first athletic movement. 32. The method of claim 31, wherein the lateral width of the first and second elongate structural elements at a given location on the substrate is substantially related to the magnitude of strain at that location. A footwear article, wherein the footwear article has an upper and a sole structure fixed to the upper, the upper includes a first upper element, and the first upper element includes:
A base layer, the base layer having an inner surface and an opposing outer surface, the inner surface facing the interior of the footwear article, a base layer,
A first structural layer, the first structural layer comprising a plurality of first embroidered extension elements extending over at least a portion of an outer surface of the base layer, the first embroidered extension. Each of the elements comprises a machine direction, a machine direction width, a stitch density, and a stitch angle relative to the machine direction, and (i) the machine direction in at least one of the first embroidered elongate elements. At least one of an axis and the lateral width varies over the length of the first embroidered elongate element, and (ii) at least a portion of at least one first embroidered elongate element, At least partially fused to the outer surface of the base layer through the application of at least one of heat and pressure, and (iii) at least a portion of the plurality of first embroidered elongate elements is provided in the final footwear article. A first structural layer extending in a direction substantially parallel to at least one predominant direction of strain that will be experienced during one competitive movement;
A second structural layer, the second structural layer comprising a plurality of second embroidered elongate elements extending over at least a portion of an outer surface of the base layer, the second embroidered elongate layer. Each of the elements comprises a machine direction, a machine direction width, a stitch density, and a stitch angle relative to the machine direction, (i) the machine direction in at least one of the second embroidered elongate elements. At least one of an axis and the lateral width varies over the length of the second embroidered elongate element, and (ii) at least a portion of at least one second embroidered elongate element, At least partially fused to the outer surface of the base layer through the application of at least one of heat and pressure, and (iii) at least a portion of the plurality of second embroidered elongate elements is provided with a final footwear article. (Iv) the array of second embroidered elongate elements extends in a direction substantially parallel to at least one secondary direction of strain that will be experienced during two competitive movements; A second structural layer different from the array of stretched elements described above.