JP2019142982A - Composition for caring keratin fiber, and use of the same for cleansing and conditioning keratin fiber - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide a hair-care cosmetic, more specifically a new composition with improved cleansing and conditioning characteristics.SOLUTION: There are provided a composition and keratin fiber for caring keratin fiber, particularly use thereof for cleansing and conditioning hair, in which the composition contains: A) at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactant, nonionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, cationic surfactant or a mixture thereof; B) at least one type of cationic polymer whose electric charge density is more than 4 meq/g, preferably more than 5 meq/g; C) at least one type of aminated silicone; and D) at least one type of insoluble non-aminated silicone.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

  The present invention relates to the field of hair care cosmetics and, more particularly, the present invention relates to new compositions with improved cleansing and conditioning properties.

  In the art, detergents and conditioning hair care compositions based essentially on surfactants, in particular anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric type surfactants, more particularly anionic surfactants. Or the use of shampoos in combination with conditioning agents is known.

  Surfactants for cleansing and washing hair, especially anionic type surfactants, are known to have good detergency because of their ability to remove various stains present on the hair initially. ing. However, this surfactant, along with this property, can cause damage to the hair due to the strong nature of these cleansing treatments, which is conspicuous damage to the hair, for example contained in or on the hair surface. Causes removal of lipids or proteins.

  More particularly, the above-described cleaning composition has been damaged or weakened through the chemical action of sensitive hair, i.e. especially environmental substances and / or hair treatments such as permanent waves, dyeing or bleaching. In order to improve the cosmetic properties of cleaning compositions for application to the hair, it is known to introduce conditioning agents into these compositions. The main purpose of these conditioning agents is to correct or limit undesired effects induced by various treatments or some type of adhesion to which the hair fibers are repeatedly exposed to varying degrees, of course, They can also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.

  The conditioning agents most commonly used in shampoos to date are cationic polymers, silicones and / or silicone derivatives, which are significantly enhanced compared to those obtained with corresponding cleansing compositions that do not contain them. It imparts entanglement, softness and smoothness to washed dry or wet hair.

  Moreover, it is also known to combine two or more conditioning agents in a shampoo in order to achieve a better conditioning effect on the hair, especially sensitive hair. The most commonly combined to achieve this goal are various types of silicones and their derivatives.

  Despite current advances in the field of shampoos based on combinations of specific and appropriately selected types of silicones and / or their derivatives and cationic polymers, they are not entirely satisfactory. It was found. Accordingly, there remains a need for new products that exhibit improved performance with respect to one or more of the cosmetic properties listed above.

  The present invention aims to meet this need.

U.S. Patent No. A-4874554 U.S. Patent No. A-4137180 French Patent No. 2320330 French Patent No. 2270846 French Patent No. 2316271 French Patent No. 2336434 French Patent No. 2413907 U.S. Pat.No. 2,273,780 U.S. Pat. No. 2,378,583 U.S. Pat.No. 2,388,614 U.S. Pat.No. 2,454,547 U.S. Pat.No. 3206462 U.S. Patent 2,226,002 U.S. Pat. No. 2,271,378 U.S. Pat. No. 3,874,870 U.S. Patent No. 4001432 U.S. Pat.No. 3,929,990 U.S. Pat.No. 3,966,904 U.S. Patent No. 4005193 U.S. Patent No. 4025617 U.S. Patent No. 4025627 U.S. Patent No. 4025653 U.S. Patent No. 4026945 US Patent No. 4027020 French Patent No. 2080759 French Patent No. 2190406 EP-A-122324 U.S. Patent No. 4185087 EP-A-0530974

CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 ASTM 445 Appendix C

  One of the objectives of the present invention is in particular to make it less tangled and to impart volume, tension, smoothness, softness and suppleness, and also to impart foam volume. It is to obtain a composition for cleansing and simultaneously conditioning keratin fibres, in particular the hair, which has a remarkable treatment effect which it exhibits.

  This object of the invention is at least selected from the group consisting of A) anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, or mixtures thereof in an aqueous medium. One surfactant, B) at least one cationic polymer with charge density greater than 4 meq / g, preferably greater than 5 meq / g, C) at least one aminated silicone, and D) at least one Achieved by a hair care composition comprising a seed insoluble non-aminated silicone.

  Another object of the present invention is a method for washing and conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising applying an effective amount of the above composition to the wet fibers, followed by an optional exposure period. And subsequent rinsing with water.

  Yet another subject of the present invention is the use of the above composition in cleansing and conditioning keratin fibers, especially hair.

  The present invention thus makes it possible to obtain a composition having good cleansing and conditioning properties and at the same time stable over a long period of time. These characteristics are: improved foam volume, good entanglement, and good volume, tightness, smoothness, softness and suppleness.

  As used herein, the term “at least one” is synonymous with “one or more”.

  Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following description and examples.

  As mentioned above, the essential components of the composition according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of A) anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, or mixtures thereof. At least one surfactant, B) at least one cationic polymer with charge density greater than 4 meq / g, preferably greater than 5 meq / g, C) at least one aminated silicone, D) at least one Insoluble non-aminated silicone.

A) Surfactant The hair shampoo composition according to the present invention is an interface selected from the group consisting of a cationic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, or a mixture thereof. Contains an active agent.

i) Anionic Surfactant According to one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one surfactant is selected from an anionic surfactant or “surface active agent”.

  In anionic surfactants, the hydrophobic portion generally retains an anionic hydrophilic group together with a metallic cationic counterion (an alkali metal such as Na or K) or ammonium, so that the hydrophilic group is polar. It is understood to mean an amphiphilic compound that can dissociate in an aqueous solution to give an anion.

More specifically, the anionic portion of the anionic surfactants, -C (O) OH, -C (O) O -, -SO 3 H, -S (O) 2 O -, -OS (O _{) 2 OH, -OS (O)} 2 O -, -P (O) OH 2, -P (O) 2 O -, -P (O) O 2 -, -P (OH) 2, = P (O ) OH, -P (OH) O -, = P (O) O -, = POH, = PO - belong to a group selected from, the anionic moiety, cationic counter anion, such as alkali metal or alkaline earth Metal or an organic cationic counter anion such as ammonium. Anionic surfactants include carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, sulfoacetate, sulfosuccinate, phosphate, isethionate, sarcosine, glutamate, lactate or taurate. Mention may be made of surface-active agents, including anionic groups, fatty acid salts, galactoside uronic acid salts, ether carboxylic acid salts, and mixtures thereof.

More specifically, the anionic surfactant according to the present invention is selected from:
- (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl ether sulfates, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ sulfuric acid alkylamide ether, alkylaryl polyether or monoglyceride sulfate-sulfuric acid (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfonates, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkylamide sulfonates, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkylaryl sulfonates, sulfonic acid α- olefin, paraffin sulfonic acid · (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl phosphate · (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ sulfosuccinate alkyl, (C _{6 ~C 30)} sulfosuccinic acid alkyl ethers or (C _{6 ~C 30)} sulfosuccinic acid alkyl amide, (C _{6 ~C 30)} sulfoalkyl acetate (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) acyl sarcosinates · (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ acyl glutamates · (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic acid ether, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfosuccinate polyglycoside · (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ Alkyl sulfosuccinate (C ₆ ~ C ₂₄ ) acyl isethionate / tauric acid N-[(C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) acyl]
A salt of a fatty acid, a salt of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) acyl lactate, a salt of (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acid, a salt of (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acid, A salt of (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkylaryl polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acid, or a salt of (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkylamide polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

  These anionic surfactants are advantageously used in the compositions according to the invention in the form of salts, in particular in the form of salts of alkali metals such as sodium; for example of salts of alkaline earth metals such as magnesium. Forms; ammonium salt forms; amine salt forms or amino alcohol salt forms. They may also occur in these acid forms depending on the conditions.

  It should be noted that the alkyl or acyl groups of these various compounds preferably contain 12 to 20 carbon atoms. Preferably, the aryl group represents a phenyl group or a benzyl group.

  Furthermore, the polyoxyalkylenated anionic surfactant preferably comprises 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, or sulfates.

  According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant is selected from fatty acid salts.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant of the present invention is a sulfate, and more specifically, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl sulfate, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) sulfate alkyl ether, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) Sulfuric acid alkylamide ethers, sulfuric acid alkylaryl polyethers and sulfuric monoglycerides, their salts such as alkali salts such as sodium, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the anionic surfactant of the present invention is an (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl sulfate such as (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl sulfate, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) sulfate alkyl ether, especially lauryl sulfate. Selected from ethers, their salts, such as sodium laureth sulfate.

ii) Nonionic surfactant According to one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one surfactant is selected from nonionic surfactants.

Among the nonionic surfactants according to the invention, mention may be made of fatty alcohols, α-diols and alkylphenols, alone or as a mixture, these three types of compounds being oxyalkylated, for example polyethoxyl. , Polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, for example containing fatty chains containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, the number of alkylene oxides such as ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide groups in particular from 2 to 50 Probably in the range and / or the number of glycerol groups is in particular in the range 2-30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, on average 1 to 5 Specific polyglycerolated fatty amides containing 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkylpoly Glycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ ) alkylamine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from:
(Poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols / glycerolated fatty alcohols / alkyl polyglycosides where the “fatty chain” is linear or branched, containing 6-30 carbon atoms, preferably 8-30 carbon atoms Mean, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain.

  With regard to alkylpolyglycosides or APG, these compounds are well known to those skilled in the art.

  These compounds are more specifically represented by the following general formula:

[In the formula (I),
R ₁ represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl group or alkylphenyl group containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, wherein the linear or A branched alkyl group contains 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
-R ₂ represents an alkylene group containing about 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
-G represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms;
-a represents a value in the range 0-10, preferably 0-4,
-b represents a value in the range 1-15].

Preferred alkyl polyglucosides useful in the compositions of the present invention are compounds of formula (I), wherein R ₁ more particularly contains 8 to 18 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated. A represents a linear or branched alkyl group, a represents a value ranging from 0 to 3, even more particularly equal to 0, G is glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose It is the said compound which can show.

  The degree of polymerization, ie the value of b in formula (I), can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2, and even more preferentially between 1.1 and 1.5.

  The glycosidic bond between the sugar units is of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type.

  The compounds of formula (I) are marketed in particular by the company COGNIS under the name Plantaren® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or the name Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000). Represented by the product. Also used may be products sold under the name Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 [or Oramix® NS 10] by Seppic, the name Lutensol GD 70 by BASF. Products sold under the name AG10 LK by Chem Y.

Also may be used, for example, C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl 1,4-polyglucoside, which is a 53% aqueous solution sold by Cognis under the reference name Plantacare® 818 UP.

  With respect to mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants, on average they preferably contain 1 to 30 glycerol groups, more particularly 1 to 10 glycerol groups, in particular 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups.

The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated surfactant is preferably selected from compounds of the following formula:
RO [CH ₂ CH (CH ₂ OH) O] _m H
RO [CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ O] _m H, or
RO [CH (CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ O] _m H
(Where
R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms,
M is an integer between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10 and more particularly between 1.5 and 6;
R may optionally contain heteroatoms, for example oxygen and nitrogen. In particular, R may optionally contain one or more hydroxyl and / or ether and / or amide groups. R is mono - preferably a or polyhydroxylated C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ alkyl and / or alkenyl group).

  The polyglycerolated (3.5 mol) hydroxy lauryl ether sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane® NF, for example, may be used.

  (Poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols suitable in the practice of the present invention are more particularly selected from alcohols containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

  (Poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols more particularly comprise 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more (especially 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups, Contains a plurality of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups. If they are unsaturated, the compounds can contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

  The (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohol preferably has the following formula (II):

(Where
R ₃ is a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ alkyl group or alkenyl group, preferably a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group or alkenyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups And
c is an integer between 1 and 200, including upper and lower values, preferentially an integer between 2 and 50, more particularly an integer between 8 and 30, for example 20.

  (Poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly (1-30 OE) fatty alcohols containing 8-22 carbon atoms and oxyethylenated with 1-30 mol ethylene oxide. Among these, more specifically, 2 OE lauryl alcohol, 3 OE lauryl alcohol, 3 OE decyl alcohol, 5 OE decyl alcohol, and 20 OE oleyl alcohol can be mentioned.

  Mixtures of these (poly) oxyethylenated fatty alcohols may also be used.

Of the nonionic surfactants, C _{6 to} C ₂₄ alkyl polyglucosides and (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols are preferably used, and more particularly C _{6 to} C ₁₆ alkyl polyglucosides are used. The

iii) Amphoteric surfactants According to one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one surfactant is selected from amphoteric surfactants.

  Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that may be used in the present invention contain at least one anionic group, such as a carboxylic acid group, a sulfonic acid group, a sulfuric acid group, a phosphoric acid group or a phosphonic acid group, It may be a quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivative, wherein the aliphatic group, or at least one of the aliphatic groups, contains 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Including straight or branched chain.

Specifically, (C ₈ -C ₂₀₎ alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂ -C ₈ alkyl) betaines and (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂ ~ C ₈ alkyl) sulfobetaines.

  Among the optionally defined quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives defined above, the compounds of the following structural formulas (III) and (IV) are also mentioned: Can:

[In the formula (III),
R ₄ preferably represents a C _{10 to} C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from the acid R ₄ —C (O) —OH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group. ,
R ₅ represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,
R ₆ represents a carboxymethyl group]
as well as

[In the formula (IV),
A represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX '
A ′ represents — (CH ₂ ) z—Y ′, where z = 1 or 2;
X ′ is —CH ₂ —C (O) —OH, —CH ₂ —C (O) —OZ ′, —CH ₂ CH ₂ —C (O) —OH, —CH ₂ —CH ₂ —C ( O) -OZ ′ group or a hydrogen atom,
Y ′ is —C (O) —OH, —C (O) —OZ ′, or —CH ₂ —CH (OH) —SO ₃ H group or —CH ₂ —CH (OH) —SO ₃ Z ′ Represents a group,
Z ′ is an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as an ion derived from sodium, potassium or magnesium; or an ammonium ion; or an organic amine, in particular an amino alcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, Represents ions derived from di- or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane,
R ₇ is preferably a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of the acid R ₇ C (O) -OH present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, in particular those of C ₁₇ and its isoforms. Represents a type or unsaturated C ₁₇ group].

  A compound corresponding to the formula (IV) is preferable. These compounds can also be found in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, in disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphopropionate, lauroampho They are also classified under the names of disodium propionate, disodium caprylamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphonpropionate, lauroamphopropionic acid, cocoamphopropionate.

  Examples include N-cocoylamidocarboxymethyl glycinate, an alkali metal such as sodium, or cocoamphodiacetic acid sold, for example, under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia.

  Of all the iii) amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants listed above, preferably used are N-cocoylamidocarboxymethyl glycinates of alkali metals such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, cocoylbetaine, and sodium. is there.

  According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the iii) amphoteric surfactant listed above is cocoyl betaine.

i) Cationic surfactant According to one embodiment of the invention, the at least one surfactant is selected from cationic surfactants. Mention may be made, for example, of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be specifically mentioned include:
a) Equivalent to the following general formula (V):

[In the formula (V), the groups R _{8 to} R ₁₁ may be the same or different, and are linear or branched aliphatic groups containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or aromatic Represents a group, for example aryl or alkylaryl, wherein at least one of the R _{8 to} R ₁₁ groups comprises 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Aliphatic groups may contain heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen.

Aliphatic groups, e.g., C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxy (C ₂ -C ₆₎ alkylene, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl amide, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂₎ alkylamido (C ₂ -C ₆₎ alkyl is selected (C ₁₂ ~C ₂₂₎ alkyl acetate, a C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydroxyalkyl, X ^- is a halide ion, phosphate ion, acetate ion, lactate ion, (C ₁ ~ An anionic counterion selected from C ₄ ) alkyl sulfate ions and (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl- or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylarylsulfonate ions.

Of the quaternary ammonium salts of the formula (V), the following are preferred: First, tetraalkylammonium halides, such as tetraalkylammonium chloride, such as tetraalkylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium halides. E.g. dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chloride (wherein the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms), in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Halides such as benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, and secondly, alkoxy sulfate, especially distearoyl ethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium sulfate , Dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or the like, or finally, palmitoylamidopropyltrimethylammonium halide, specifically the name Ceraphyl (registered trademark) by Van Dyk ) Stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold at 70;
-b) quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, for example of the following formula (VI):

[In the formula (VI)
R ₁₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as tallow fatty acid derivatives;
- R ₁₃ represents an alkenyl group or an alkyl group containing a hydrogen atom, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, or 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
- R ₁₄ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group,
- R ₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom, or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group,
- X ^- is specifically halide ions, phosphate ions, acetate, lactate, (C ₁ ~C ₄₎ alkyl sulfate ion, (C ₁ ~C ₄₎ alkyl - or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) represents an anionic counterion selected from alkylarylsulfonate ions,
R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ here preferably represent a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, eg derived from tallow fatty acids, R ₁₄ preferably represents a methyl group, R ₁₅ preferably represents a hydrogen atom. Such products are sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo];
-c) quaternary diammonium salts or quaternary triammonium salts, specifically those of the following formula (VII):

[In the formula (VII),
R ₁₆ represents an alkyl group containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms;
-R ₁₇ is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a-(CH ₂ ) ₃ -N ⁺ (R _16a ) (R _17a ) (R _18a ) group, R _16a , R _17a , R _18a , R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- X ^- is specifically a halide ion, acetate ion, phosphate ion, nitrate ion, (C ₁ ~C ₄₎ alkyl sulfate ion, (C ₁ ~C ₄₎ alkyl - or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) Represents an anionic counterion selected from alkylarylsulfonate ions, especially methylsulfate ions and ethylsulfate ions, such compounds include, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quotanium 89), available from Finetex, and Finetex Finquat CT (Quotanium 75) available from the company];
-d) quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functional groups, for example of the following formula (VIII):

[In the formula (VIII),
- R ₂₂ is selected from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group or dihydroxyalkyl group,
-R ₂₃ is selected from:
-Group

- linear or branched, C ₁ saturated or unsaturated -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based group R ₂₇
-Hydrogen atom R ₂₅ is selected from:
-Group

- linear or branched, C ₁ saturated or unsaturated -C ₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals R ₂₉
-Hydrogen atom
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different and are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C _{7 to} C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups;
-r, s and t may be the same or different and are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
-r1 and t1 may be the same or different and are equal to 0 or 1, where r2 + r1 = 2r, t1 + t2 = 2t;
-y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
-x and z may be the same or different and are integers ranging from 0 to 10;
- X ^- represents an anionic counterion, organic or inorganic,
However, the sum x + y + z is 1 to 15, and when x is 0, R ₂₃ represents R _27, and when z is 0, R ₂₅ represents R ₂₉ ].

The alkyl group R ₂₂ may be linear or branched, more specifically linear.

Preferably, R ₂₂ represents a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.

  Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is 1-10.

When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon group R ₂₇ , it may be long and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be short and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon-based group R ₂₉ , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different and are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C _{11 to} C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups. And more particularly selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

  Preferably x and z may be the same or different and are equal to 0 or 1.

  Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

  Preferably, r, s and t may be the same or different and are equal to 2 or 3, even more particularly equal to 2.

The anionic counter ion X ⁻ is preferably a halide ion, preferably for example a chloride ion, bromide ion or iodide ion, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl sulfate ion or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl- Or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylaryl-sulfonate ions. Provided that anion derived from methanesulfonate ion, phosphate ion, nitrate ion, tosylate ion, organic acid, such as acetate ion or lactate ion, or any other anion compatible with ammonium containing ester functional group May be used.

The anionic counter ion X ⁻ is even more specifically chloride ion, methyl sulfate ion or ethyl sulfate ion.

More particularly usable in the composition according to the invention are ammonium salts of the formula (VIII):
[In the formula (VIII),
-R ₂₂ represents a methyl group or an ethyl group,
-x and y are equal to 1,
-z is equal to 0 or 1,
-r, s and t are equal to 2,
-R ₂₃ is selected from:
-Group

- methyl, ethyl or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based group
-The hydrogen atom R ₂₅ is selected from:
-Group

-Hydrogen atom
-R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different and are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C _{13 to} C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based groups, more particularly Selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups].

  Advantageously, the hydrocarbon group is linear.

  Of the quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functional groups of formula (VIII), examples include diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, Mention may be made of acyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts, in particular chloride or methyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Acyl groups preferably contain from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and more specifically are obtained from vegetable oils such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

  These products, for example, directly esterify triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with a fatty acid or a mixture of fatty acids of plant or animal origin. Or by transesterification of their methyl esters. After this esterification, an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin Quaternization using an alkylating agent such as

  Such compounds are, for example, under the name Dehyquart® by Henkel, under the name Stepanquat® by Stepan, under the name Noxamium® by Ceca, or under the name Rewoquat® by Rewo-Witco. ) Sold at WE 18.

  The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of mono-, di- and triester quaternary ammonium salts, with the diester salt occupying the majority of the mass.

  It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function as described in US Pat. No. 4,874,554 and US Pat. No. 4,137,180.

  Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 by Kao Corporation may be used.

  Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group contains two ester functional groups.

  Of the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to select cetyltrimethylammonium salt, behenyltrimethylammonium salt and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt, and Mixtures thereof, more specifically behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the surfactant is selected from an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant. Based on this particular embodiment, the surfactant useful in the present invention is a combination of an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant.

  More preferably, the surfactant of the present invention contains a combination of a sulfate anionic surfactant and a betaine surfactant, preferably a combination of sodium laureth sulfate and cocoyl betaine.

  Advantageously, the content of the at least one surfactant is 4% to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably 6% to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, more preferably It occupies 10% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 12% to 16% by weight.

B) Cationic polymer with a charge density of more than 4 meq / g The hair shampoo composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer with a charge density of more than 4 meq / g, preferably more than 5 meq / g.

  For the purposes of the present invention, it is first noted that the term “cationic polymer” refers to any polymer containing a cationic group and / or a group that can be ionized into a cationic group.

  In view of the present invention, the charge density of the cationic polymer according to the present invention is greater than 4 meq / g, even more preferentially greater than 5 meq / g.

  This charge density is particularly determined by the Kjeldahl method.

  This charge density can also be calculated from the polymer chemistry.

  These polymers preferably have a number average molecular mass generally between 1,000 and 100,000,000.

  This type of polymer includes French Patent No. 2320330, French Patent No. 2270846, French Patent No. 2316271, French Patent No. 2336434, French Patent No. 2413907, US Patent No. 2273780, US Patent No. No. 2375853, U.S. Pat.No. 2,388,614, U.S. Pat.No. 2,454,547, U.S. Pat.No. 3206462, U.S. Pat.No. 2,261,002, U.S. Pat.No. 2,271,378, U.S. Pat.No. 3,874,870, U.S. Pat. No. 3,966,904, U.S. Pat. No. 4,005,193, U.S. Pat. No. 4025617, U.S. Pat. No. 4025627, U.S. Pat. No. 4025653, U.S. Pat. No. 4026945, and U.S. Pat.

More particularly, the cationic polymer is selected from:
a) Cationic cyclopolymer of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium The cationic cyclopolymer is a homopolymer or copolymer containing a unit corresponding to the following formula (IX) or (X) as a main component of the chain: Good:

(Wherein d and e are equal to 0 or 1, the sum d + e is equal to 1, R ₃₂ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, and R ₃₀ and R ₃₁ are independently of each other C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl group, hydroxyalkyl group (wherein the alkyl group is C ₁ -C ₅ alkyl group), or an amide group (wherein the alkyl group is C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group), R _It can also represent a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl together with the nitrogen atom to which ₃₀ and R ₃₁ are bonded, and R ₃₀ and R ₃₁ preferably independently of each other represent a C _{1 to} C ₄ alkyl group. shows, Y is ^- is bromide ion, chloride ion, acetate ion, borate ion, citrate ion, tartrate ion, hydrogen sulfate ion, hydrogen sulfite ion, an anion of an organic or inorganic, such as sulfate ion or phosphate ion is there). These polymers are described in detail in French Patent No. 2080759 and French Patent No. 2190406.

  The cationic cyclopolymer of the present invention is a water-soluble polymer having a charge density of more than 4 meq / g. From the viewpoint of smoothness during foaming and smoothness during rinsing, the charge density is preferably greater than 5 meq / g. The charge density of the water-soluble cationic cyclopolymer can be measured by a colloid titration method using, for example, potassium polyvinyl sulfate as a titration solution.

  Among the polymers defined above, more specifically, homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (and its homologues having a low mass average molecular weight) sold, for example, by the company Nalco under the name `` Merquat 100 '', and the name Merquat Mention may be made of the copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold at 550.

b) polyquaternary ammonium polymers composed of units of the formula (XI):

[Where
R ₃₃ , R ₃₄ , R ₃₅ and R ₃₆ may be the same or different and are a hydrogen atom or methyl, ethyl, propyl, b-hydroxyethyl, b-hydroxypropyl or CH ₂ CH ₂ ( OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) pOH group, where p is equal to 0 or equal to an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R ₃₃ , R ₃₄ , R ₃₅ and R ₃₆ simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom Not,
f and g may be the same or different and are integers between 1 and 6;
h is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34;
X ⁻ represents an anion such as halide ion,
P represents a dihalide group, or preferably —CH ₂ —CH ₂ —O—CH ₂ —CH ₂ —]. Such compounds are described in detail in patent application EP-A-122324.

  Among these, mention may be made, for example, of the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1 and Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol. is there.

  Advantageously, the cationic cyclopolymer used in the present invention is in the composition from 0.01% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, More preferably, it is present at 0.3% to 1% by weight.

C) Aminated silicone According to the invention, the term "aminated silicone" or aminosilicone represents at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine, or at least one quaternary ammonium, and more Specifically, any silicone containing at least one primary amine is indicated. Aminosilicones do not contain any quaternary ammonium groups.

  The aminated silicone used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is selected from the following silicones of formula (XII):

{Where
D is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl group, preferably methyl group, or a C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy group, preferably methoxy group,
i represents the number 0 or an integer of 1 to 3, preferably 0,
k represents 0 or 1, specifically 1;
j and l are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range in particular from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, and n is from 0 to 1999, specifically from 49 to It is possible to indicate a number of 149, m is a number from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
R ₃₇ is a monovalent group of formula -C _q H _2q L:
[Where
Q is a number from 2 to 8, and one or more hydrogen atoms can be replaced by a hydroxyl group;
L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the following groups:
-N (R ₃₈ ) -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R _'38 ) ₂
-N (R ₃₈ ) _{2
^{- N + (R 38) 3}} Q -
_{^{- N + (R 38) (}} H) 2 Q -
^{_{- N + (R 38) 2}} HQ -
_{- N (R 38) -CH 2} -CH 2 -N + (R '38) (H) 2 Q -
(Wherein R ₃₈ and R ′ ₃₈ can represent a hydrogen atom, phenyl, benzyl or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon group such as a C _{1 to} C ₂₀ alkyl group, and Q and Q ⁻ are, for example, Represents anions such as fluoride ion, chloride ion, bromide ion or iodide ion)]}.

  Specifically, the aminated silicone corresponding to the definition of formula (XII) is selected from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (XIII):

Wherein R ₃₉ , R ₄₀ and ₄₁ may be the same or different and are C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, preferably CH ₃ ; C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy groups, preferably methoxy; or Represents OH, E represents a linear or branched C _{3 to} C ₈ , preferably C _{3 to} C ₆ alkylene group, m and n are integers depending on the molecular weight, and their sum is 1 Between 2000 and 2000).

According to a first possibility, R ₃₉ , R ₄₀ and R ₄₁ may be the same or different and represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, preferably a methyl group or a hydroxyl group, E being , C ₁ -C ₈ , preferably a C ₃ -C ₄ alkylene group, and m and n are integers such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between about 5000 and 500,000. This type of compound is called “aminodimethicone” in the CTFA dictionary.

According to a second possibility, R ₃₉ , R ₄₀ and R _{41, which} may be the same or different, represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy group or a hydroxyl group, and represent an R ₃₉ group or an R ₄₁ group. At least one of them is an alkoxy group, and E represents a C ₃ alkylene group. The molar ratio of hydroxy / alkoxy is preferably between 0.2 / 1 and 0.4 / 1, advantageously equal to 0.3 / 1. Further, m and n are integers such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More specifically, n is between 0 and 999, m is between 1 and 1000, and the sum of n and m is between 1 and 1000.

  Of particular mention in this category of compounds is the product Belsil® ADM 652, sold by Wacker.

According to a third possibility, R ₃₉ or R ₄₁ are each different and represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy group or a hydroxyl group, at least one of the R ₄₀ or R ₄₁ groups being an alkoxy group , R ₄₀ represents a methyl group, and E represents a C ₃ alkylene group. The molar ratio of hydroxy / alkoxy is preferably between 1 / 0.8 and 1 / 1.1, advantageously equal to 1 / 0.95. Further, m and n are values such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200,000. More specifically, n is between 0 and 999, m is between 1 and 1000, and the sum of n and m is between 1 and 1000.

  More specifically, the product Fluid WR (registered trademark) 1300 sold by Wacker and the product Xiameter (registered trademark) MEM-8299 Emulsion sold by Dow Corning can be mentioned.

  The aminosilicone used in the composition according to the invention preferably has the following general formula (XIV):

[Where
F represents a linear or branched alkylene group of C _{2 to} C ₈ , preferably C _{2 to} C ₆ , and even better C ₃ ,
R ₄₂ and R ₄₃ independently of each other represent a C _{1 to} C ₄ alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, or a C _{1 to} C ₄ alkoxy group, preferably a methoxy group, or a hydroxyl group,
m and n are numbers such that the mass average molecular weight (Mw) is greater than or equal to 75,000].

Preferably the R ₄₂ groups are identical and represent a hydroxyl group.

Preferably, the viscosity of the aminosilicone according to the invention is greater than 25,000 mm ² / s measured at 25 ° C. More preferentially, the viscosity of the aminosilicone is between 30,000 mm ² / s at 25 ° C. of 200,000 mm ² / s, and more preferentially than measured at 25 ° C. from 50,000 mm ² / s 150,000 is between mm ² / s, still even in better is between 70,000mm ² / s of 120,000mm ² / s. The viscosity of the silicone is measured, for example, according to the standard “ASTM 445 Appendix C”.

  Preferably, the cationic charge of the aminated silicone according to the present invention is 0.5 meq / g or less, preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.1 meq / g, and even better in the range of 0.03 to 0.06 meq / g. To do.

  Preferably, the aminosilicones according to the invention have a weight average molecular weight (Mw) in the range from 75,000 to 1,000,000, and even more preferentially in the range from 100,000 to 200,000.

  The mass average molecular weight of the aminosilicones according to the invention is measured as polystyrene equivalent at ambient temperature by gel filtration chromatography (GPC). The column used is a μ styragel column. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 μl of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF is injected. Detection is performed by refractive index measurement and UV measurement.

  A particularly preferred aminosilicone corresponding to formula (XIV) is, for example, Dow Corning 2-8299 Cationic Emulsion from Dow Corning.

  The product corresponding to the definition of formula (XII) is specifically a polymer called `` trimethylsilylamodimethicone '' in the CTFA dictionary and corresponds to the following formula (XV):

[Where
N and m have the meaning given above for formula (XIII)].

  Such compounds are described, for example, in EP95238, and the compound of formula (XIV) is sold, for example, by the company OSI under the name Q2-8220.

Other aminosilicones according to the present invention are quaternized aminosilicones, specifically:
(a) Compound corresponding to the following formula (XVI):

(Where
R ₄₃ represents a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, for example methyl,
R ₄₄ represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, specifically a C _{1 to} C ₁₈ alkylene group,
Q ^- is an anion, especially a chloride ion,
o represents an average statistic of 2-20, specifically 2-8,
r represents an average statistic of 20 to 200, specifically 20 to 50).

  Such compounds are described in more detail in US Pat. No. 4185087.

  The compounds included in this class are products sold under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56 by Union Carbide.

(b) Quaternary ammonium silicone of formula (XVII):

(Where
R ₄₅ may be the same or different and represents a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular a C _{1 to} C ₈ alkyl group, for example methyl,
R ₄₇ is a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene group, or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ , for example C ₁ -C ₈ , linked to Si via a SiC bond. Represents an alkyleneoxy group
R ₄₆ may be the same or different and is a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, particularly a C _{1 to} C ₁₈ alkyl group, C _{2 to} C _18. Represents an alkenyl group or a -R ₄₇ -NHCOR ₄₅ group,
X ⁻ is an anion such as halide ion, in particular chloride ion, or organic acid salt (acetate, etc.)
r represents an average statistic of 2 to 200, specifically 5 to 100).

  These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A-0530974.

  (c) Aminated silicone of formula (XVIII):

(Where
R ₄₈ , R ₄₉ , R ₅₀ and R ₅₁ may be the same or different and each represents a C _{1 to} C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl group,
- R ₅₂ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
-r is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;
-s is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;
Where t is selected so that the amine number is between 0.01 meq / g and 1 meq / g).

  Preferably, the aminosilicones of the present invention are dequaternized, i.e. they do not contain nitrogen atoms with a permanent charge.

  Particularly preferred silicones according to the invention are aminosiloxane-containing polysiloxanes, such as amodimethicone or trimethylsilylamodimethicone, in particular compounds of the formulas (XIII), (XIV) and (XV).

  When the aminated silicones of the present invention are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment is to use them in conjunction with cationic and / or nonionic surfactants.

  By way of example, it is possible to use a product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC 929 by the company Dow Corning, which, besides amodimethicone, contains a mixture of products corresponding to the following formula: Contains surfactants:

[Where
R ₅₃ is a C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ alkenyl group and / or alkyl group whose CTFA name is known as tallow fat trimonium urochloride derived from tallow fatty acid, and the formula C ₉ H whose CTFA name is known as nonoxynol 10 _{19 -C 6 H 4 - (OC} 2 H 4) shows a combination of a nonionic surfactant of ₁₀ -OH.

Also used may be, for example, a product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC 939 by the company Dow Corning, in addition to amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant which is trimethylcetylammonium chloride, and Contains a nonionic surfactant of the formula C ₁₃ H ₂₇ — (OC ₂ H ₄ ) ₁₂ —OH (known by the CTFA name Trideces-12).

  When these aminosilicones are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment consists of using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

  The oil-in-water emulsion may contain one or more surfactants. The surfactant may be of any nature, but is preferably cationic and / or nonionic.

  The silicone particles in the emulsion have a volume average diameter [D4.3] of 10 to 1000 nanometers, preferably 50 to 800 nanometers, more particularly 100 to 600 nanometers, and even more particularly 200 to The general range is 500 nanometers. Specifically, these particle sizes can be determined using a laser granulometer, such as a Malvern Mastersizer 2000 granulometer.

  According to the invention, all silicones can also be used in the form of emulsions or microemulsions.

  According to the present invention, the aminated silicone of the present invention is 0.01% to 7% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, more specifically 0.4% by weight to the total weight of the composition. It can account for 2% by weight.

D) Insoluble non-aminated silicone In the context of the present invention, the term “insoluble” is understood to mean insoluble in the final composition.

In the context of the present invention, the term “silicone” is a variable molecular weight, linear or cyclic, branched, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of appropriately functionalized silanes according to generally accepted definitions. Is intended to mean all organosilicon polymers or oligomers having a shape or a cross-linked structure, which essentially consists of main units whose siloxane atoms are bonded to one another by oxygen atoms (siloxane bonds ≡Si-O-Si An optionally substituted hydrocarbon group consisting of repeating ≡) is directly bonded to the silicon atom via a carbon atom. The most common hydrocarbon groups are alkyl groups, especially C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl groups, especially methyl groups, fluoroalkyl groups and aryl groups, especially phenyl.

According to the invention, a silicone of suitable viscosity is preferably selected from:
(i) Polydialkylsiloxane
(ii) polydiarylsiloxane, and
(iii) Polyalkylaryl siloxane.

  Among the polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may preferably be made of linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilyl groups, for example, without implied limitation, the 70047 series of SILBIONE oil marketed by RHONE-POULENC A linear polydimethylsiloxane containing terminal hydroxydimethylsilyl groups, such as the 48V series oil from RHONE-POULENC, the product Xiameter® PMX-200 silicone fluid 60000CS sold by Dow Corning, or A mixture of them.

More preferred among this class of polydialkylsiloxanes are the polyalkylsiloxanes sold under the trade names ABILWAX 9800 and ABILWAX 9801 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, which are poly (C ₁ -C ₂₀ ) alkylsiloxanes. It is.

  Among the polyalkylaryl siloxanes which can be preferably mentioned are linear or branched polydimethylmethylphenyl siloxanes or polydimethyldiphenyl siloxanes, for example the product DC 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID from DOW CORNING.

  Preferably, the insoluble non-aminated silicone according to the present invention is polydimethylsiloxane.

  Advantageously, the amount of the insoluble non-aminated silicone of the present invention is from 0.01% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to the total weight of the composition. It is 3% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 2% by mass.

  In addition to these, the compositions according to the invention may naturally also contain all standard adjuvants encountered in the field of shampoos, for example perfumes, preservatives, sequestering agents, thickeners. , Wettable powder, anti-dandruff agent or anti-seborrheic agent, vitamin, sunscreen agent, suspension agent and the like.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will carefully examine these possible supplemental compounds and / or their amounts so that the advantageous properties according to the invention are not impaired at all or substantially not by the envisaged addition. Would choose to.

  The composition according to the invention may take the form of a thickened liquid, cream or gel. They may also take the form of a lotion to be rinsed.

  Another aspect of the present invention is a method for washing and conditioning keratin fibers, particularly hair, wherein the effective amount of the composition is applied to the wet fibers and then after an optional exposure period. Rinsing with water.

  Yet another aspect of the present invention is the use of the above composition of the present invention for cleansing and conditioning keratin fibers, particularly hair.

  Non-limiting examples illustrating the invention will now be described.

  Three types of hair shampoos were prepared, one type according to the present invention (invention A) and two types as comparative examples (comparative examples B and C).

  All examples are evaluated using wet combing and dry combing methods.

Wet combing after rinsing A 0.4 g sample of Invention A and Comparative Examples B and C were each applied onto 1 g of Chinese bleached hair. The conditioning composition was then placed on the hair for 5 minutes. Rinse hair with warm water for 10 seconds. The frictional force between the hair and the comb is measured with a meter named Texture Analyzer provided by Texture Technologies (Scarsdale, USA).

  The combing power of the hair is listed below.

  The combing power of the hair when using the sample of the present invention A was significantly reduced as compared with the cases where Comparative Examples B and C were used.

Dry combing after rinsing
A 0.4 g sample of A and Comparative Examples B and C is applied on Chinese natural black hair and 6 g Chinese damaged hair, respectively. The conditioning composition is then placed on the hair for 5 minutes. The hair is then rinsed with warm water for 10 seconds and left at room temperature overnight. After repeated application 5 times using the method described herein, the combing force between hair stress and comb is measured by a device named Combing Tester JC45A-001 sold by JAU CHUNG. . The reduction in combing force is measured based on the following formula:

  Reduction of combing force (%) = [combing force of control (9% sodium laureth sulfate) −combing force of example / combing force of 9% sodium laureth sulfate] × 100%

  The dry combing power of the hair when using the example of the present invention A was significantly reduced.

Panel test Shampooing was carried out by applying approximately 10 g of compositions A, B and C to the previously wetted hair. Foam was applied with shampoo and the hair was then rinsed extensively with water.

  Six skilled panels evaluated the tangling resistance of wet hair, the ease of shaping, the softness, smoothness and suppleness of the hair. Each performance is sorted by levels 0-5, where 0 represents poor performance and 5 represents good performance. The larger the number, the better the performance.

  The evaluation results are listed.

  Based on the evaluation made by the panel, the present invention is significantly improved over all of these properties compared to Comparative Examples B and C.

Claims (14)

In the aqueous phase
A) at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, or mixtures thereof;
B) at least one cationic polymer having a charge density of greater than 4 meq / g, preferably greater than 5 meq / g;
C) at least one aminated silicone;
D) A composition for caring for keratin fibers comprising at least one insoluble non-aminated silicone.   The surfactant according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, or mixtures thereof, preferably selected from anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants. Composition.   The surfactant is a combination of an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant, preferably a sulfate surfactant and a betaine surfactant, more preferably sodium laureth sulfate and cocoyl betaine. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, which is a combination.   In the composition, the at least one surfactant is 4% by mass to 50% by mass, preferably 6% by mass to 40% by mass, more preferably 10% by mass to 20%, based on the total mass of the composition. 4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, present in a mass%, even more preferably 12 to 16 mass%.   The at least one cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of alkyl diallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cationic cyclopolymers, diquaternary ammonium cationic polymers, polyquaternary ammonium polymers, or mixtures thereof. Item 5. The composition according to any one of Items 1 to 4. A cationic cyclopolymer of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium is of formula (IX) or (X):

[In the formulas (IX) and (X),
d and e are the same or different and are equal to 0 or 1,
d + e = 1,
R ₃₂ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
R ₃₀ and R _31, independently of one another, C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl group, hydroxyalkyl group (wherein the alkyl group is C ₁ -C _5), an amide group (wherein alkyl is C ₁ -C ₄ Or a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl together with the nitrogen atom to which R ₃₀ and R ₃₁ are bound,
Y ⁻ is an organic or mineral anion such as bromide ion, chloride ion, acetate ion, borate ion, citrate ion, tartrate ion, bisulfate ion, bisulfite ion, sulfate ion or phosphate ion,
Preferably, R ₃₀ and R ₃₁ preferably independently of each other represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group,
Y ^- is preferably a chloride ion]
Have units of
Here, the cationic cyclopolymer of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium having the unit of the formula (IX) or (X) is a charge density of more than 4 meq / g, preferably more than 5 meq / g, more preferably more than 6 meq / g. 6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein:   7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cationic cyclopolymer is preferably polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride.   The amount of the cationic cyclopolymer is 0.01% to 3% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of 1 to 7.   9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one aminated silicone is preferably polydimethylsiloxane.   The amount of aminated silicone is 0.01% to 7% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.4% to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of 1 to 9.   11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the at least one insoluble non-aminated silicone is selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, or mixtures thereof. object.   The amount of insoluble non-aminated silicone is 0.01% to 7% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 3% by weight, even more preferably, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein is 1% by mass to 2% by mass.   A method for washing and conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair, applying an effective amount of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 to the wet fibers, and then optionally Rinsing with water after the exposure period.   Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims for caring for keratin fibers, for example for cleansing and conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair.