JP2017511433A - Process for improving the chemical and / or physical properties of yarns or fabrics - Google Patents

Abstract

The process of improving the chemical and / or physical properties of the yarn comprises the steps of applying a chitosan-based reinforcement product, a subsequent step of crosslinking the chitosan, and a partially tailored desizing step to remove the crosslinked chitosan The desizing step is performed by mechanical means.

Description

  The present invention relates to yarns or fabrics, preferably fine yarns or thin fabrics made from natural animal fibers, plant fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and / or artificial natural polymer fibers, used pure or blended together. It relates to a process for improving chemical and / or physical properties.

  As used herein, the term weaving is intended to encompass both warp and weave and knitting.

As used herein, for example:
The fine yarn is intended to include a yarn having a yarn count in the range of 50-200 Nm;
Animal fibers are intended to include fibers obtained from insects (eg silkworms) or coats (eg wool, alpaca, vicuña, cashmere, etc.);
-Plant fibers are intended to include all fibers obtained from plants, shrubs, flower bunches, leaves (eg, ramie, bamboo, cotton, hemp, etc.).

  It is known that the above-mentioned types of fine yarn are difficult to weave together because they are easily broken during weaving due to their thinness.

  For this reason, for example from WO 2013/057723, a step of applying a reinforcing solution consisting of chitosan and / or a derivative thereof to the fiber of the yarn, for example a step of crosslinking chitosan and / or a derivative thereof by exposure to ultraviolet light And a weaving technique comprising a desizing step for removing chitosan and / or its derivatives and a partially tailored desizing step for removing both chitosan and / or its derivatives after crosslinking. Known in the technical field.

  In this regard, since chitosan and / or its derivatives are soluble under appropriate conditions, chitosan and / or its derivatives are easily removed, such removal being one of the washing or normal finishing steps on yarns or fabrics, It is noted that this is easily obtained, for example, by performing a dyeing step obtained by dipping the fibers in a suitable dyeing solution at a temperature above 60 ° C.

  Conversely, cross-linked chitosan and / or cross-linked chitosan derivatives are water-insoluble cross-linked polymers that remain permanently affixed to the fiber after multiple successive washing steps with hot water and / or soapy water, or after heat dyeing steps. Is generated.

In particular, cross-linking of chitosan and / or its derivatives can increase its binding to yarn fibers. In particular, cross-linked polymers resulting from cross-linking of chitosan and / or derivatives thereof are substantially insoluble and durable applied to the treated fibers. The presence of this crosslinked polymer resulting from crosslinking of chitosan and / or its derivatives is:
-Give the yarn considerable physical-mechanical resistance;
- sterilizing the fibers, resulting in an anti-rolling action and antibacterial effect; and - especially with respect to reactive dyes which react with -OH and -NH ₂ group, finishing affinity substantially improve the dyeing and printing affinity particular be able to.

  In order to obtain yarns or fabrics with fibers having the above advantages and optionally both initial flexibility, high volume, gloss and light weight, such cross-linked polymers resulting from cross-linking of chitosan and / or derivatives thereof on the fibers The amount should not exceed an amount strictly sufficient to obtain the necessary benefits. Thus, for example, any excess of such crosslinked polymer on the fiber results in the disadvantage that yarns and fabrics are highly resistant but also exhibit excessive stiffness.

  Thus, there is a need for a partially tailored desizing step to remove cross-linked polymers resulting from cross-linking of chitosan and / or its derivatives from yarn or textile fibers.

According to the prior art, these desizing steps are:
An enzymatic desizing step, preferably using amylase and / or cellulase enzymes, within the pH, temperature and activity ranges specific for the enzyme and related substances, or for example hydrolyzed acids, preferably diluted hydrochloric acid and / or Alternatively, it may be a chemical desizing step using sulfuric acid.

  With respect to these desizing techniques for the partial and controlled removal of cross-linked polymer yarns or textile fibers resulting from cross-linking of chitosan and / or its derivatives, preliminary tests have been conducted for each different type of fiber to be treated. It should be noted that it cannot be easily implemented. Furthermore, the possibility of performing such partially tailored desizing steps by enzymatic or chemical procedures necessitates the introduction of special equipment or parts typically not provided in spinning and / or weaving lines. In other words, it is noted that these technologies require the preparation of a special production line.

  The present invention is therefore based on the problem of conceiving and providing a process for improving the chemical and / or physical properties of yarns or fabrics in order to meet the above needs while eliminating the disadvantages of the prior art.

  This problem is solved by a process for improving the chemical and / or physical properties of a yarn, in particular a fine yarn, or a fabric as defined in claim 1.

  In a further aspect, the present invention also relates to the use of a reinforcing product comprising a composition of chitosan and / or derivatives thereof as defined in claim 15.

  According to the invention, the yarn, preferably a fine yarn, is used in a pure state or blended together, natural animal fibers and / or plant fibers, and / or artificial natural polymer fibers and / or artificial natural crosslinks Made of polymer fiber.

Example 1
The process of the present invention for improving the chemical and / or physical properties of yarns made from natural animal fibers, plant fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and / or artificial natural polymer fibers, either pure or blended together:
a) providing a yarn made of natural animal fiber, plant fiber, synthetic polymer fiber and / or artificial natural polymer fiber, pure or blended together;
b) providing a gluing solution comprising a composition of chitosan and / or a derivative thereof as a reinforcing product;
c) gluing the yarn with the gluing solution to apply the reinforcing product of chitosan and / or its derivative to the yarn fibers by at least partial dipping and / or coating;
d) At least partially cross-linking the chitosan and / or derivative thereof of the reinforcing product applied to the fibers by the gluing step c) to obtain a cross-linked reinforcing polymer from the chitosan and / or derivative thereof, and the polymer to the yarn And e) partial and coordinated removal of the cross-linked reinforcing polymer derived from chitosan and / or derivatives thereof and anchored to the yarn fibers from such fibers of the yarn Including a step of performing a desizing step.

  Advantageously, the desizing step e) for the partial and controlled removal of the cross-linked reinforcing polymer derived from chitosan and / or derivatives thereof from these fibers of the yarn is carried out by mechanical means. Is called.

  The yarns obtained by the process steps b), c), d) and e) described above have improved mechanical strength, outstanding sterilization, antibacterial and anti-shrink properties and excellent finish affinity (eg dyeing and printing affinity). ) And a partially adjusted desizing for the removal of the cross-linked polymer is advantageously obtained simply and quickly by mechanical means.

Example 2
Processes that improve the chemical and / or physical properties of fabrics or knitted fabrics made of yarn made from natural animal fibers, plant fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and / or artificial natural polymer fibers, either pure or blended together, Including the warp and weft steps of the yarn or the knitting step of the yarn, and at least one or both of the warp and the weft, preferably the warp alone, or the yarn used in the knitting step, used in the weaving step, The following process steps:
a) providing a yarn made of natural animal fiber, plant fiber, synthetic polymer fiber and / or artificial natural polymer fiber, pure or blended together;
b) providing a gluing solution comprising a composition of chitosan and / or a derivative thereof as a reinforcing product;
c) gluing the yarn with the gluing solution to apply the reinforcing product comprising chitosan and / or derivatives thereof to the yarn fibers by at least partial dipping and / or coating; and d) Chitosan and / or derivatives thereof of the reinforcing product applied to the fibers by the gluing step c) are at least partially cross-linked to obtain a cross-linked reinforcing polymer from the chitosan and / or derivatives thereof, and the polymer into the yarn fibers A yarn that is permanently fixed.

  After the bridging step d), the yarn is subjected to a warp and weaving step of the yarn or a knitting step f) of the yarn, and one or both of the warp and weft used in this weaving step or in the knitting step, Preferably the warp yarn only is the yarn on which the process steps b), c) and d) are carried out.

  After said weaving or knitting step f), the woven fabric or knitted fabric thus obtained has a partially conditioned removal of said cross-linked reinforcing polymer derived from chitosan and / or its derivatives from the fabric or knitted fibers. The desizing step g) at is performed.

  Advantageously, said desizing step g) with partial controlled removal of said cross-linked reinforcing polymer derived from chitosan and / or derivatives thereof from such fibers of said yarn is applied to said fibers by mechanical means. This is done at least in part by acting.

Example 3
Chemical and / or physical properties of woven, knitted or garment made of at least one yarn made from natural animal fiber, plant fiber, synthetic polymer fiber and / or artificial natural polymer fiber, pure or blended together The process of improving:
h) providing a final woven fabric, knitted fabric or garment consisting of at least one yarn made of natural animal fibers, plant fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and / or artificial natural polymer fibers, either pure or blended together;
b) providing a gluing solution comprising a composition of chitosan and / or a derivative thereof as a reinforcing product;
i) to apply the reinforcing product comprising chitosan and / or its derivatives to the fibers of the fabric, knitted fabric or garment by at least partial dipping and / or coating, Gluing step;
l) After the gluing step i), the chitosan and / or derivative thereof of the chitosan composition is crosslinked to obtain a crosslinked polymer from the chitosan and / or derivative thereof, which is permanently applied to the fibers of the woven fabric, knitted fabric or clothes And m) derived from chitosan and / or derivatives thereof from the textile, knitted or garment fibers after said step l) at least partially cross-linking chitosan and / or derivatives thereof of said composition Performing a desizing step with partial controlled removal of the crosslinked polymer.

  Advantageously, said desizing step m) in the partially conditioned removal of said cross-linked reinforcing polymer derived from chitosan and / or derivatives thereof from said textile, knitted or garment fibers is by mechanical means This is done at least in part by acting on the fibers.

  Thus, according to the present invention, in all the above examples, a partially conditioned desizing step (ie a gluing step that does not involve complete removal of the cross-linked polymer applied on the fibers) is a mechanical glue. Fiber that is at least partially done by punching and thereby desizing so as to remove some of the crosslinked chitosan and / or chitosan derived polymer from the fiber, such as ablation, rubbing, brushing and / or sonication It is physically acted upon by the process configured as described above.

  Advantageously, the mechanical ablation and / or rubbing treatment for the partially conditioned removal of the crosslinked chitosan and / or chitosan-derived polymer contacts the yarn during weaving, for example the yarn contacts a special rigid surface Then, it may be performed by sliding. These rigid surfaces are the surface of the roller that is touched by the thread sliding during weaving, the rivet, through-hole, that is, the heald or jacquard heald blade surface, through which the thread slides during weaving , Brush hair, etc.

  These mechanical ablation and / or rubbing treatments may be performed on the yarn fibers after the weaving or knitting step, i.e. by acting directly on the final fabric or knitted fabric. In this case, these mechanical treatments are preferably carried out by brushing the woven or knitted fabric.

  According to an alternative embodiment, a partially tuned mechanical desizing step for removing cross-linked chitosan and / or chitosan-derived polymers from yarn, woven or knitted fibers is performed by sonication of such fibers. Also good. Conveniently this may be done, for example, by immersing the yarn, woven or knitted fiber in a liquid into which the ultrasound probe is introduced.

  Advantageously, the sonication of the fibers may be carried out simultaneously with the weaving or finishing step in which the fibers are already immersed in the bath, for example during the washing or dyeing step of the fabric or knitted fabric.

  From the above, if there is a possibility of performing a desizing step by mechanical means, no additional processing steps are added to those necessary to produce yarns, fabrics or knitted fabrics, and the removal of crosslinked chitosan and / or chitosan-derived polymers It is understood that no additional special equipment is added to what is particularly necessary for the partial adjusted desizing.

The possibility of performing a partially tailored mechanical desizing for removal of the cross-linked polymer on the fiber before or after such a partially tailored desizing step:
An enzymatic desizing step, preferably using amylase and / or cellulase enzymes, within the pH, temperature and activity ranges specific for the enzyme and related substances, or for example hydrolyzed acids, preferably diluted hydrochloric acid and The possibility of performing as a chemical desizing step using / or sulfuric acid is not excluded.

  In particular, the partially adjusted mechanical desizing step may be performed in addition to the chemical or enzymatic desizing step.

  Partially adjusted desizing steps using ultrasound may be performed simultaneously with the partially adjusted chemical or enzymatic desizing step using the same bath, which is synergistic between different desizing steps. Bring effect.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the cross-linked chitosan and / or chitosan-derived polymer applied to the yarn, woven or knitted fiber and the yarn, woven or knitted fabric is applied after the gluing step and before the step of cross-linking the chitosan and / or derivative thereof. A drying step is performed, which facilitates the subsequent chitosan crosslinking step.

  Suitably, the chitosan cross-linking step is performed by a UV exposure step of yarn, fabric, knitted or garment fibers, optionally including chemical cross-linking.

  Preferably, the step of gluing the final fabric, knitted fabric or garment is performed by fouling and / or dipping the final woven fabric, knitted fabric or garment in a gluing solution.

Preferably, these fiber gluing steps are:
-Low molecular weight chitosan;
An aqueous acid solution;
-It is carried out using a gluing solution consisting of a radical photoinitiator.

  Preferably, the chitosan used has a low molecular weight, for example about 150,000 Da. In particular, this is a degree of deacetylation of 75 ÷ 85%; 0.5 ÷ 10 w / v, preferably 0.8 ÷ 3% w / v, more preferably 20 ÷ in a concentration range of 1% w / v. Chitosan having a viscosity of 200 cps.

  Preferably, the aqueous acid solution has a concentration of 1.5 ÷ 3.8% v / v, preferably 1.8 ÷ 2.22% v / v, more preferably 2% v / v. Consists of a concentration of acetic acid.

  Preferably, the step of gluing yarn, woven, knitted or garment fibers with the gluing solution has a bath ratio in the range of 1 ÷ 7 to 1 ÷ 35, preferably in the range of 1 ÷ 10 to 1 ÷ 30. More preferably, it is carried out at a bath ratio in the range of 1 ÷ 16 to 1 ÷ 24.

  Preferably, the step of gluing the final fabric, knitted fabric or garment with the gluing solution has a bath ratio in the range of 1 ÷ 7 to 1 ÷ 35, preferably in the range of 1 ÷ 10 to 1 ÷ 30. The ratio is more preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1/16 to 1 ÷ 24.

  Preferably, the step of desizing in the partially conditioned removal of the crosslinked chitosan derived reinforcing polymer from the fibers of the yarn comprises the step of gluing the crosslinked chitosan derived reinforcing polymer to the yarn subjected to the gluing step. Leave on the fiber in an amount of 0.3 ÷ 9% w / w based on the dry weight of the yarn after the gluing step.

  The above disclosure is susceptible to numerous modifications and variations within the scope of the inventive concept, as outlined by the appended claims.

Thus, for example, the yarn, preferably a fine yarn, consists of an aligned yarn with a monofilament containing chitosan or a multifilament yarn or a yarn made with discontinuous fibers containing chitosan. Also good.

Claims (15)

Process for improving the chemical and / or physical properties of yarns made from natural animal fibers, plant fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and / or artificial natural polymer fibers, pure or blended together, said process But:
a) providing a yarn made of natural animal fiber, plant fiber, synthetic polymer fiber and / or artificial natural polymer fiber, pure or blended together;
b) providing a gluing solution comprising a composition of chitosan and / or a derivative thereof as a reinforcing product;
c) gluing the yarn with the gluing solution to apply the reinforcing product of chitosan and / or its derivative to the yarn fibers by at least partial dipping and / or coating;
d) At least partially cross-linking the chitosan and / or derivative thereof of the reinforcing product applied to the fibers by the gluing step c) to obtain a cross-linked reinforcing polymer from the chitosan and / or derivative thereof, and the polymer to the yarn And e) partial and coordinated removal of the cross-linked reinforcing polymer derived from chitosan and / or derivatives thereof and anchored to the yarn fibers from such fibers of the yarn A desizing step for partially conditioned removal of the cross-linked reinforcing polymer derived from chitosan and / or derivatives thereof from such fibers of the yarn ) Is performed by mechanical means. In a process that improves the chemical and / or physical properties of fabrics or knitted fabrics made of yarn made from natural animal fibers, plant fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and / or artificial natural polymer fibers, either pure or blended together And the process is:
a) providing a yarn made of natural animal fiber, plant fiber, synthetic polymer fiber and / or artificial natural polymer fiber, pure or blended together;
b) providing a gluing solution comprising a composition of chitosan and / or a derivative thereof as a reinforcing product;
c) gluing the yarn with the gluing solution to apply the reinforcing product of chitosan and / or its derivative to the yarn fibers by at least partial dipping and / or coating;
d) At least partially cross-linking the chitosan and / or derivative thereof of the reinforcing product applied to the fibers by the gluing step c) to obtain a cross-linked reinforcing polymer from the chitosan and / or derivative thereof, and the polymer to the yarn Permanently fixing to the fibers of
f) a step of performing the warp and weft step of the yarn or the knitting step of the yarn, and one or both of the warp and the weft, preferably only the warp, used in this weaving step or the knitting step, A step in which the process steps b), c) and d) are performed;
g) performing a desizing step for partial and controlled removal of the cross-linked reinforcing polymer derived from chitosan and / or its derivatives from the fabric or knitted fibers, The desizing step g) in the partially conditioned removal of the cross-linked reinforcing polymer derived from chitosan and / or its derivatives from the fiber is carried out at least partly by acting on the fiber by mechanical means. Process characterized by Chemical and / or physical properties of woven, knitted or garment made of at least one yarn made from natural animal fiber, plant fiber, synthetic polymer fiber and / or artificial natural polymer fiber, pure or blended together A process for improving the process, wherein:
h) providing a final woven fabric, knitted fabric or garment consisting of at least one yarn made of natural animal fibers, plant fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and / or artificial natural polymer fibers, either pure or blended together;
b) providing a gluing solution comprising a composition of chitosan and / or a derivative thereof as a reinforcing product;
i) to apply the reinforcing product comprising chitosan and / or its derivatives to the fibers of the fabric, knitted fabric or garment by at least partial dipping and / or coating, Gluing step;
l) crosslinking the chitosan and / or derivative thereof of the chitosan composition to obtain a crosslinked polymer from the chitosan and / or derivative thereof, which is permanently affixed to fibers of the woven, knitted or garment; and m ) Performing a desizing step with partial controlled removal of the cross-linked polymer derived from chitosan and / or derivatives thereof from the fabric, knitted or garment fibers, The desizing step m) in the partially conditioned removal of the cross-linked reinforcing polymer derived from chitosan and / or its derivatives from garment fibers acts at least in part by acting on the fibers by mechanical means. A process characterized by being performed on.   Said partially conditioned desizing step is at least partially performed by mechanical desizing, whereby the fibers to be desizing are ablated, rubbed, brushed and / or one of the crosslinked chitosan and / or chitosan derived polymer from the fibers. 4. A process according to claim 1, 2 or 3 that is physically acted upon by a process configured to remove parts.   5. A dependent claim according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the mechanical desizing step for physically acting on the fibers to be desizing by ablation and / or rubbing is performed on the yarn during the weaving step. Process.   3. A dependent claim as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein the mechanical desizing step for physically acting on the fibers to be desizing by ablation and / or rubbing is performed by sliding the yarn in contact with the rigid surface. The process of claim 4, wherein:   7. The rigid surface is comprised of a wing, a surface of a through hole, a surface of a roller contacted by the yarn and / or brush bristles through which the yarn slides during weaving. Process.   5. A dependent claim according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the mechanical desizing step for physically acting on the fibers to be desizing by ablation and / or rubbing is performed on a fabric, knitted fabric or garment. Process.   9. The mechanical desizing step by ablation and / or rubbing is performed by brushing the fabric, knitted fabric and / or garment or by sliding the fabric in contact with a rigid surface. process.   The partially conditioned mechanical desizing step to remove cross-linked chitosan and / or chitosan-derived polymer from the fiber is preferably sonicated while the fiber is immersed in the bath The process according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein   11. A process according to claim 10, wherein the sonication of the fibers is performed simultaneously with a weaving or finishing step wherein the fibers are already immersed in the bath.   12. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the partially conditioned mechanical desizing step is performed in addition to a chemical or enzymatic desizing step.   The partially conditioned mechanical desizing step by sonication of the fibers to which the cross-linked chitosan and / or chitosan-derived polymer is applied uses the same bath and the partially tuned chemical or enzymatic desizing 12. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the process is performed substantially simultaneously with the steps.   Prior to the step of cross-linking the reinforced product chitosan applied to the fiber, a step of drying the fiber of the yarn and the chitosan of the reinforced product applied to the fiber of the yarn is performed, whereby a subsequent chitosan cross-link is performed. A process for improving the chemical and / or physical properties of a yarn according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the step is facilitated.   Use of a reinforcing product comprising a composition of chitosan and / or a derivative thereof in the process according to any of claims 1 to 14 for improving the chemical and / or physical properties of the yarn.