JP2016180685A - Evaluation method of 'moist feeling' in powder cosmetic - Google Patents
Evaluation method of 'moist feeling' in powder cosmetic Download PDFInfo
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- 230000000875 corresponding effect Effects 0.000 description 2
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- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
Description
本願発明は、粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料における感触特性の一因子である「しっとり感」を客観的に評価するための方法に関する。 The present invention relates to a powder cosmetic and a method for objectively evaluating “moist feeling” which is a factor of touch characteristics in a powder raw material for cosmetics.
スキンケアやメイクアップ化粧料は、ユーザーが容器から手にとって直接肌に塗布し使用することが一般的である。そして、化粧料は毎日使用するものであることから、化粧効果において、その機能性は勿論のこと、使用感（感触）も極めて重要な要素と言える。 In general, skin care and makeup cosmetics are applied by the user directly to the skin from the container. And since cosmetics are used every day, it can be said that not only the functionality but also the feeling of use (feel) are extremely important factors in the makeup effect.
化粧料、及び原料の感触特性の評価方法には、大きく分けて官能評価と物性評価がある。官能評価は、実使用に近い評価であるというメリットがある一方で、主観的評価であることから、評価者の感性による個人差に加えて肌状態や心理状態にも大きく影響されるものである。このため、官能試験のみに頼らず物理機器を用いた客観的指標による評価方法や表示方法等の技術が強く望まれていた。 Methods for evaluating the feel characteristics of cosmetics and raw materials are roughly classified into sensory evaluation and physical property evaluation. While sensory evaluation has the merit that it is an evaluation close to actual use, it is a subjective evaluation, so it is greatly influenced by skin condition and psychological state in addition to individual differences due to evaluator's sensitivity. . For this reason, there has been a strong demand for techniques such as evaluation methods and display methods based on objective indices using physical equipment without relying solely on sensory tests.
従来、化粧料、及び原料の感触特性を評価する手法の一つとして、表面摩擦測定による客観的指標に基づいた評価方法が検討されている。例えば、クリーム等の乳化型化粧料、及び油性原料においては「のび」、「なめらかさ」、「しっとり感」といった官能評価から得られる感触特性と、表面摩擦測定から得られる平均摩擦係数（ＭＩＵ）、及び／又は平均摩擦係数の変動係数（ＭＭＤ）といった摩擦特性との相関性について検討されている（特許文献１、非特許文献１、２参照）。一方で、パウダーファンデーション等の粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料においては、「のび」や「なめらかさ」といった所謂「すべり性」の評価に焦点が当てられることが多く、「しっとり感」との相関性を言及した例はない。 Conventionally, as one of methods for evaluating the feel characteristics of cosmetics and raw materials, an evaluation method based on an objective index by surface friction measurement has been studied. For example, in emulsified cosmetics such as creams, and oily raw materials, feel characteristics obtained from sensory evaluation such as “nobi”, “smoothness”, “moist feeling”, and average friction coefficient (MIU) obtained from surface friction measurement And / or correlation with friction characteristics such as coefficient of variation (MMD) of the average friction coefficient has been studied (see Patent Document 1, Non-Patent Documents 1 and 2). On the other hand, in powder cosmetics such as powder foundations and powder raw materials for cosmetics, the focus is often on the evaluation of so-called “slipperiness” such as “nobi” and “smoothness”. There is no example mentioning the correlation.
クリーム等の乳化型化粧料、及び油性原料は水分や油分を含有することで、直接的に「しっとり感」を感じることは想像しやすい。一方で、パウダーファンデーション等の粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料は、それ自体が水分や油分に含浸されていないにも関わらず、しばしば「しっとり感」が感触特性の一因子として挙げられる。 It is easy to imagine that emulsified cosmetics such as cream, and oily raw materials contain moisture and oil, and thus directly feel “moist”. On the other hand, powder cosmetics such as powder foundations and powder raw materials for cosmetics often have “moist feeling” as one factor of touch characteristics, although they are not impregnated with moisture or oil.
粉末化粧料の製法のひとつに、粉末と溶剤とを混合しスラリー化した後、プレス・乾燥させる湿式充填成型法がある。この湿式充填成型法によって成型された粉末化粧料は、一般的に非常になめらかでしっとりとした使用感であると言われている。 One method for producing a powder cosmetic is a wet filling molding method in which a powder and a solvent are mixed to form a slurry, and then pressed and dried. The powder cosmetics molded by this wet filling molding method are generally said to have a very smooth and moist feeling.
粉末原料において、表面処理剤の配合量や種類等を検討することで「しっとり感」を付与した例が報告されている（特許文献２、３参照）。 In the powder raw material, there has been reported an example in which a “moist feeling” is given by examining the blending amount and type of the surface treatment agent (see Patent Documents 2 and 3).
香粧品分野において、一般に「しっとり感」を付与した粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料は、基礎化粧品の美容液、乳液、クリーム等の使用感を連想させるような好ましい使用感であることから非常に市場価値が高い。 In the field of cosmetics, powder cosmetics that have been given a “moist feeling” and powder raw materials for cosmetics generally have a preferable feeling of use that is reminiscent of the feeling of use in cosmetics, emulsions, creams, etc. of basic cosmetics. Very high market value.
これらの背景に基づき、粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料においても、物理機器を用いた「しっとり感」の客観的指標が求められている。 Based on these backgrounds, an objective index of “moist feeling” using physical equipment is demanded also in powder cosmetics and powder raw materials for cosmetics.
本願発明は、上記事情に鑑みてなされたもので、粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料における「しっとり感」を、物理機器を用いて客観的に評価するための方法を提供することを目的とする。 The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object thereof is to provide a method for objectively evaluating “moist feeling” in powder cosmetics and powder raw materials for cosmetics using physical equipment. And
かかる実情において、本願発明者らは上記課題を解決すべく鋭意研究を重ねた結果、特定の粉体層せん断力測定から得られる破壊包絡線（Ｐｏｗｄｅｒ ｙｉｅｌｄ ｌｏｃｕｓ：以下ＰＹＬ）の曲線度と、官能評価から得られる「しっとり感」との間に高い相関性があることを見出し、本願発明を完成するに至った。 Under such circumstances, the inventors of the present application have made extensive studies to solve the above problems, and as a result, the degree of curve of the fracture envelope (PYL) obtained from a specific powder layer shear force measurement, It has been found that there is a high correlation with the “moist feeling” obtained from the evaluation, and the present invention has been completed.
すなわち本願発明は、粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料において、感触特性の一因子である「しっとり感」を、特定の方法による粉体層せん断力測定（垂直応力σ、及びせん断応力τが定常状態に達した後、定容積状態にて連続的に垂直応力を減衰した時に同時に得られるせん断応力をプロットする方法）から得られる破壊包絡線ＰＹＬの曲線度を物性指標として関連付けて評価する方法を提供するものである。 That is, according to the present invention, in powder cosmetics and powder materials for cosmetics, “moisture sensation”, which is a factor of touch characteristics, is measured by measuring a powder layer shear force by a specific method (normal stress σ and shear stress τ are Method of plotting shear stress obtained simultaneously when normal stress is attenuated continuously in a constant volume state after reaching a steady state) Is to provide.
本願発明は、本来ならば「しっとり感」は水や油等に濡れているものを触ることで感じるが、実際には濡れていないにも関わらず表現される粉末の「しっとり感」を客観的に評価するため、特定の方法による粉体層せん断力測定から得られる破壊包絡線ＰＹＬの曲線度を物性指標として関連付けるものである。 In the present invention, the “moist feeling” is originally felt by touching something wet with water or oil, but the “moist feeling” of the powder expressed even though it is not actually wet is objective. Therefore, the degree of curving of the fracture envelope PYL obtained from the powder layer shear force measurement by a specific method is correlated as a physical property index.
以下本願発明の粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料の使用感の評価方法を、その好ましい実施形態に基づいて説明する。本願発明によれば、粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料を肌に塗布した際の使用感のひとつである「しっとり感」を客観的に評価することが出来る。ここで、粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料に対する「しっとり感」とは、肌が潤うような保湿感を感じる感覚、粉末が水分や油分で軽く湿り気を含んでいるような感覚を言う。 Hereinafter, the evaluation method of the feeling of use of the powder cosmetic of the present invention and the powder raw material for cosmetics will be described based on preferred embodiments thereof. According to the present invention, it is possible to objectively evaluate “moist feeling” which is one of the feeling of use when the powder cosmetic and the powder raw material for cosmetics are applied to the skin. Here, “moist feeling” with respect to the powder cosmetic and the powder raw material for cosmetics refers to a feeling of moisturizing feeling that moisturizes the skin and a feeling that the powder is lightly moist with moisture and oil.
本願発明の粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料の「しっとり感」の評価方法は、評価の対象となる粉末を用いて粉体層せん断力測定を実施し、垂直応力σに対応するせん断応力τをプロットして得られる破壊包絡線ＰＹＬの曲線度により、前記粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料の「しっとり感」を評価する。 The method for evaluating the “moist feeling” of the powder cosmetic of the present invention and the powder raw material for cosmetics is to measure the shear force of the powder layer using the powder to be evaluated, and to determine the shear stress corresponding to the normal stress σ. The “moist feeling” of the powder cosmetic and the powder raw material for cosmetics is evaluated based on the curve of the fracture envelope PYL obtained by plotting τ.
本願発明の実施形態においては、下記手順に従った粉体層せん断力測定から得られる破壊包絡線ＰＹＬの曲線度を物性指標として評価する。
（１）円柱状のセル（上部固定セル、下部可動セル）内部に粉末を充填し、垂直応力を一定の速度で徐々に負荷する。
（２）垂直応力の規定値に達した後、垂直応力の負荷を停止し定容積状態で粉体層の緩和時間を設ける。
（３）十分に応力緩和が起こった後に、セルに一定速度で水平方向の外力を負荷する。
（４）せん断が定常状態（垂直応力とせん断応力の値がそれぞれ一定となる状態）に達した後、水平方向の外力を保持したまま垂直応力を徐々に減衰させていく。
（５）前記減衰過程で、垂直応力とせん断応力を検知して得られた各垂直応力σ（横軸：ｘ軸）に対応するせん断応力τ（縦軸：ｙ軸）をプロットし、破壊包絡線ＰＹＬを得る。
（６）下記式で定義した破壊包絡線ＰＹＬの曲線度を算出する。
In the embodiment of the present invention, the degree of curving of the fracture envelope PYL obtained from powder layer shear force measurement according to the following procedure is evaluated as a physical property index.
(1) Powder is filled inside a cylindrical cell (upper fixed cell, lower movable cell), and vertical stress is gradually applied at a constant rate.
(2) After reaching the specified value of the normal stress, the normal stress load is stopped and a relaxation time of the powder layer is provided in a constant volume state.
(3) After sufficient stress relaxation has occurred, a horizontal external force is applied to the cell at a constant speed.
(4) After the shear reaches a steady state (a state in which the values of the vertical stress and the shear stress are constant), the vertical stress is gradually attenuated while maintaining the external force in the horizontal direction.
(5) Plotting the shear stress τ (vertical axis: y-axis) corresponding to each vertical stress σ (horizontal axis: x-axis) obtained by detecting the vertical stress and shear stress in the damping process, and breaking envelope A line PYL is obtained.
(6) The curving degree of the fracture envelope PYL defined by the following formula is calculated.
上記手順に従って算出した破壊包絡線ＰＹＬの曲線度を相対比較して、その値が大きいほど「しっとり感」が高いと判断する。 The degree of curve of the fracture envelope PYL calculated according to the above procedure is relatively compared, and it is determined that the “moist feeling” is higher as the value is larger.
化粧料を指先で塗布する動作では、繊細な力が指先に加わっているので、指先の垂直応力も低いものとなっている。このため、測定を正確に行うため、粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料の使用感の評価では、負荷する垂直応力は、実際にセル内部の粉末を押し込んだ押し込み荷重ではなく、押し込まれたことにより粉末にかかる正味の荷重である底面荷重をロードセルで制御することが好ましい。底面荷重で検知すれば、セル壁面摩擦による圧力欠損の影響を無くし、粉体層にかかる実荷重を規定することが出来る。 In the operation of applying the cosmetic with the fingertip, since a delicate force is applied to the fingertip, the vertical stress of the fingertip is also low. For this reason, in order to accurately measure, in the evaluation of the feeling of use of the powder cosmetic and the powder raw material for cosmetics, the vertical stress to be applied was not the indentation load that actually pushed the powder inside the cell, but was indented. Thus, it is preferable to control the bottom load, which is the net load applied to the powder, by the load cell. If it is detected by the bottom surface load, it is possible to eliminate the influence of the pressure deficiency due to the cell wall friction and to define the actual load applied to the powder layer.
粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料の使用感の評価において、手順（１）で負荷する垂直応力の規定値は、特に限定されないが２０〜１２５ｋＰａの範囲であることが好ましい。垂直応力が２０ｋＰａ以下では粉体層の形成が十分でない場合があり、また１２５ｋＰａ以上では実際に人が粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料を官能評価する時の指先の圧力に比べて非常に高圧力下での測定となるため、相関性が低くなる場合がある。 In the evaluation of the feeling of use of the powder cosmetic and the powder raw material for cosmetics, the specified value of the vertical stress applied in the procedure (1) is not particularly limited, but is preferably in the range of 20 to 125 kPa. When the vertical stress is 20 kPa or less, the formation of the powder layer may not be sufficient, and when it is 125 kPa or more, it is very much compared to the fingertip pressure when humans actually perform sensory evaluation of powder cosmetics and powder raw materials for cosmetics. Since the measurement is performed under high pressure, the correlation may be low.
粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料の使用感の評価において、手順（２）で設ける緩和時間は、特に限定されないが５０〜１００ｓｅｃの範囲であることが好ましい。緩和時間が５０ｓｅｃ以下では、応力緩和が十分でない場合があり、正確な測定が出来ない場合がある。緩和時間が１００ｓｅｃ以下であれば、十分な応力緩和を得ることが出来る。 In the evaluation of the feeling of use of the powder cosmetic and the powder raw material for cosmetics, the relaxation time provided in step (2) is not particularly limited, but is preferably in the range of 50 to 100 sec. If the relaxation time is 50 sec or less, stress relaxation may not be sufficient, and accurate measurement may not be possible. If the relaxation time is 100 sec or less, sufficient stress relaxation can be obtained.
粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料の使用感の評価において、手順（３）で負荷する水平方向の外力の進行速度は、特に限定されないが１０〜１００μｍ／ｓｅｃの範囲であることが好ましい。進行速度が１００μｍ／ｓｅｃ以上では、せん断速度が速すぎて適切な粉体層面積を保持出来ず正確な測定が出来ない場合がある。速度が１０μｍ／ｓｅｃ以上であれば、適切な粉体層面積を十分保持したまま効率良く粉体層をせん断出来る。 In the evaluation of the feeling of use of the powder cosmetic and the powder raw material for cosmetics, the traveling speed of the external force applied in the horizontal direction in step (3) is not particularly limited, but is preferably in the range of 10 to 100 μm / sec. When the traveling speed is 100 μm / sec or more, there are cases where the shear rate is too high to maintain an appropriate powder layer area and accurate measurement cannot be performed. If the speed is 10 μm / sec or more, the powder layer can be efficiently sheared while maintaining an adequate powder layer area.
粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料の使用感の評価において、円柱状セル（円柱状上部固定セル、及び円柱状下部可動セル）の内径は、特に限定されないが３〜４３ｍｍの範囲であることが好ましい。円柱状セルの内径が３ｍｍ以下では、せん断時に適切な粉体層面積を保持出来ない場合があり、４３ｍｍ以上では使用するサンプル量が増える上、粉体層面積の保持に関してそれ以上の効果は見込めない。 In the evaluation of the feeling of use of the powder cosmetic and the powder raw material for cosmetics, the inner diameter of the columnar cell (columnar upper fixed cell and columnar lower movable cell) is not particularly limited, but should be in the range of 3 to 43 mm. Is preferred. If the inner diameter of the cylindrical cell is 3 mm or less, an appropriate powder layer area may not be maintained during shearing. If it is 43 mm or more, the amount of sample to be used increases, and further effects on the maintenance of the powder layer area can be expected. Absent.
粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料の使用感の評価において、円柱状下部可動セルの深さは、特に限定されないが１〜５ｍｍの範囲であることが好ましい。円柱状下部可動セルの深さが１ｍｍ以下では、せん断時に適切な粉体層面積を保持出来ない場合があり、５ｍｍ以上では使用するサンプル量が増える上、粉体層面積の保持に関してそれ以上の効果は見込めない。 In the evaluation of the feeling of use of the powder cosmetic and the powder raw material for cosmetics, the depth of the cylindrical lower movable cell is not particularly limited, but is preferably in the range of 1 to 5 mm. If the depth of the cylindrical lower movable cell is 1 mm or less, an appropriate powder layer area may not be maintained at the time of shearing. If the depth is 5 mm or more, the amount of sample to be used increases and the powder layer area is further maintained. The effect is not expected.
粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料の使用感の評価において、粉体層せん断帯厚み（円柱状上部固定セルと円柱状下部可動セルの間隙）は、特に限定されないが０．１〜０．３ｍｍの範囲であることが好ましい。粉体層せん断帯厚みが０．３ｍｍ以上では、一定の粉体層せん断帯を保持したまません断出来ない場合があり、０．１ｍｍ以下では粉体層せん断帯の保持に関してそれ以上の効果は見込めない。 In the evaluation of the feeling of use of the powder cosmetic and the powder raw material for cosmetics, the thickness of the powder layer shear zone (the gap between the cylindrical upper fixed cell and the cylindrical lower movable cell) is not particularly limited, but is 0.1 to 0.00. A range of 3 mm is preferable. If the thickness of the powder layer shear band is 0.3 mm or more, it may not be possible to shear while maintaining a certain powder layer shear band. If the thickness is 0.1 mm or less, further effects on the retention of the powder layer shear band can be expected. Absent.
粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料の使用感の評価において、各応力のデータ取り込み速度は、特に限定されないが１〜５００ｍｓｅｃの範囲であることが好ましい。データ取り込み速度が５００ｍｓｅｃ以上では、十分なプロット数が得られない場合がある。データ取り込み速度が１ｍｓｅｃ以上であれば、十分なプロット数を得ることが出来る。 In the evaluation of the feeling of use of the powder cosmetic and the powder raw material for cosmetics, the data acquisition speed of each stress is not particularly limited, but is preferably in the range of 1 to 500 msec. When the data acquisition speed is 500 msec or more, a sufficient number of plots may not be obtained. If the data acquisition speed is 1 msec or more, a sufficient number of plots can be obtained.
粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料の使用感の評価において、破壊包絡線ＰＹＬの曲線度を算出する際のプロット数ｎは、特に限定されないが１５〜２５点の範囲であることが好ましい。さらに好ましくは１８〜２２点の範囲である。プロット数ｎが１５点以下では、十分なプロット数が得られず、正確な回帰直線を得ることが出来ない場合がある。また、プロット数ｎが２５点以上では、範囲が広すぎて回帰直線の傾き（イ）、及び（ロ）がそれぞれ近づき、適切な破壊包絡線ＰＹＬの曲線度を得ることが出来ない場合がある。 In the evaluation of the feeling of use of the powder cosmetic and the powder raw material for cosmetics, the number of plots n for calculating the degree of curve of the fracture envelope PYL is not particularly limited, but is preferably in the range of 15 to 25 points. More preferably, it is the range of 18-22 points. When the number of plots n is 15 points or less, a sufficient number of plots cannot be obtained, and an accurate regression line may not be obtained. In addition, when the number of plots n is 25 or more, the range is too wide and the slopes (b) and (b) of the regression line approach each other, and it may not be possible to obtain an appropriate degree of destructive envelope PYL. .
破壊包絡線ＰＹＬは、図１に示すような粉体層せん断力測定装置を用いて測定出来る。この装置では、前述のように垂直応力を底面荷重で検知しているのが特徴である。本装置以外にも例えば、市販品である粉体層せん断力測定装置ＮＳ−Ｓ５００（ナノシーズ社製）を用いても測定出来る。粉体層せん断力測定を実施するときの室内温度及び相対湿度は、化粧料使用時の環境を考慮すると、１０〜３５℃、及び３０〜６５％ＲＨが好ましい。 The fracture envelope PYL can be measured using a powder layer shear force measuring apparatus as shown in FIG. As described above, this apparatus is characterized in that the vertical stress is detected by the bottom load. In addition to this apparatus, for example, measurement can also be performed using a commercially available powder layer shear force measuring apparatus NS-S500 (manufactured by Nano Seeds). The room temperature and relative humidity when the powder layer shear force measurement is performed are preferably 10 to 35 ° C. and 30 to 65% RH in consideration of the environment when the cosmetic is used.
以下実施例により本願発明をさらに詳細に説明する。尚、これらは本願発明を何ら限定するものではない。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. In addition, these do not limit this invention at all.
（実施例１）
［物性評価］
表１に示す化粧料用粉末原料Ａ、及びＢについて、下記のようにして粉体層せん断力測定を実施して、破壊包絡線ＰＹＬの曲線度を算出した。
測定装置：粉体層せん断力測定装置（ナノシーズ社製 試作機）
測定条件：室内温度２５℃、相対湿度５０％ＲＨ
円柱状上部固定セル（内径４３ｍｍ）
円柱状下部可動セル（深さ５ｍｍ）
粉体層せん断帯厚み０．２ｍｍ
垂直方向進行速度２００μｍ／ｓｅｃ
水平方向進行速度１０μｍ／ｓｅｃ
データ取り込み速度１００ｍｓｅｃ
手順（１）で負荷した初期垂直応力１２０ｋＰａ
緩和時間１００ｓｅｃ
プロット数ｎ＝２０
［官能評価］
表１に示す化粧料用粉末原料Ａ、及びＢの「しっとり感」について、専門パネル８名による使用テストを行い、パネル各人が下記絶対評価にて５段階に評価し評点を付け、サンプル毎にパネル全員の評点合計から、その平均値を官能評価値として算出した。
１：非常に低い
２：低い
３：標準
４：高い
５：非常に高い
Example 1
[Evaluation of the physical properties]
About the powder raw materials A and B for cosmetics shown in Table 1, the powder layer shear force measurement was implemented as follows, and the curve degree of the fracture envelope PYL was calculated.
Measuring device: Powder layer shear force measuring device (prototype manufactured by Nano Seeds)
Measurement conditions: indoor temperature 25 ° C., relative humidity 50% RH
Cylindrical upper fixed cell (inner diameter 43mm)
Cylindrical lower movable cell (depth 5mm)
Powder layer shear zone thickness 0.2mm
Vertical traveling speed 200μm / sec
Horizontal traveling speed 10μm / sec
Data capture speed 100msec
Initial vertical stress of 120 kPa applied in step (1)
Relaxation time 100 sec
Number of plots n = 20
[sensory evaluation]
About the “moist feeling” of powder raw materials A and B for cosmetics shown in Table 1, a use test is conducted by 8 specialist panels, and each panel member evaluates it according to the following 5 absolute ratings and gives a score. The average value was calculated as a sensory evaluation value from the total score of all the panels.
1: very low 2: low 3: standard 4: high 5: very high
（表１）
(Table 1)
上記表１において、粉体層せん断力測定から得られた破壊包絡線ＰＹＬの曲線度と官能評価で得られた「しっとり感」との間に高い相関性が認められた。 In Table 1 above, a high correlation was recognized between the degree of curve of the fracture envelope PYL obtained from the powder layer shear force measurement and the “moist feeling” obtained by sensory evaluation.
（実施例２）
［物性評価］
表２に示す粉末化粧料モデルＣ、及びＤについて、下記のようにして粉体層せん断力測定を実施して、破壊包絡線ＰＹＬの曲線度を算出した。
測定装置：粉体層せん断力測定装置（ナノシーズ社製 試作機）
測定条件：室内温度２５℃、相対湿度５０％ＲＨ
円柱状上部固定セル（内径４３ｍｍ）
円柱状下部可動セル（深さ５ｍｍ）
粉体層せん断帯厚み０．２ｍｍ
垂直方向進行速度２００μｍ／ｓｅｃ
水平方向進行速度１０μｍ／ｓｅｃ
データ取り込み速度１００ｍｓｅｃ
手順（１）で負荷した初期垂直応力６０ｋＰａ
緩和時間１００ｓｅｃ
プロット数ｎ＝２０
［官能評価］
表２に示す粉末化粧料モデルＣ、及びＤの「しっとり感」について、上記と同様にして専門パネル８名による使用テストを実施して官能評価値を算出した。
(Example 2)
[Evaluation of the physical properties]
For the powder cosmetic models C and D shown in Table 2, the powder layer shear force measurement was performed as follows, and the degree of curving of the fracture envelope PYL was calculated.
Measuring device: Powder layer shear force measuring device (prototype manufactured by Nano Seeds)
Measurement conditions: indoor temperature 25 ° C., relative humidity 50% RH
Cylindrical upper fixed cell (inner diameter 43mm)
Cylindrical lower movable cell (depth 5mm)
Powder layer shear zone thickness 0.2mm
Vertical traveling speed 200μm / sec
Horizontal traveling speed 10μm / sec
Data capture speed 100msec
Initial vertical stress 60 kPa applied in step (1)
Relaxation time 100 sec
Number of plots n = 20
[sensory evaluation]
With respect to the “moist feeling” of the powder cosmetic models C and D shown in Table 2, a use test was conducted by eight professional panels in the same manner as described above, and sensory evaluation values were calculated.
（表２）
(Table 2)
上記表２においても、イソノナン酸イソトリデシルを含有する粉末化粧料モデルＤの方が、「しっとり感」が高いという官能評価結果が得られ、破壊包絡線ＰＹＬの曲線度もそれに対応して高い値となった。よって、破壊包絡線ＰＹＬの曲線度と「しっとり感」との間に相関性が認められた。 Also in Table 2, the sensory evaluation result that the powder cosmetic model D containing isotridecyl isononanoate has a higher “moisture feeling” is obtained, and the curve degree of the fracture envelope PYL is a correspondingly high value. became. Therefore, a correlation was recognized between the degree of curving of the fracture envelope PYL and “moist feeling”.
本願発明の評価方法は、粉末化粧料、及び化粧料用粉末原料における感触特性の一因子である「しっとり感」を、粉体層せん断力測定から得られる破壊包絡線ＰＹＬの曲線度を物性指標として関連付けて評価出来るものである。本願発明の評価方法を用いれば、粉末化粧料の効率的効果的な開発、好適な化粧料の提供やそのアドバイスに利用出来る。 In the evaluation method of the present invention, “moist feeling”, which is a factor of touch characteristics in powder cosmetics and powder raw materials for cosmetics, is used as a physical property index, the degree of curve of the fracture envelope PYL obtained from powder layer shear force measurement. Can be evaluated in association with each other. If the evaluation method of this invention is used, it can utilize for the efficient and effective development of powder cosmetics, provision of suitable cosmetics, and the advice.
Claims (2)
（１）円柱状のセル（上部固定セル、下部可動セル）内部に粉末を充填し、垂直応力を一定の速度で徐々に負荷する。
（２）垂直応力の規定値に達した後、垂直応力の負荷を停止し定容積状態で粉体層の緩和時間を設ける。
（３）十分に応力緩和が起こった後に、セルに一定速度で水平方向の外力を負荷する。
（４）せん断が定常状態（垂直応力とせん断応力の値がそれぞれ一定となる状態）に達した後、水平方向の外力を保持したまま垂直応力を徐々に減衰させていく。
（５）前記減衰過程で、垂直応力とせん断応力を検知して得られた各垂直応力σ（横軸：ｘ軸）に対応するせん断応力τ（縦軸：ｙ軸）をプロットし、破壊包絡線ＰＹＬを得る。
（６）下記式で定義した破壊包絡線ＰＹＬの曲線度を算出する。
In powder cosmetics and powder materials for cosmetics, “moistness”, which is a factor of touch characteristics, is used as a physical property index with the degree of curve of the fracture envelope PYL obtained from powder layer shear force measurement according to the following procedure. How to evaluate. Relative comparison is made between the calculated curve degrees of the fracture envelope PYL, and the greater the value, the higher the “moist feeling” is determined.
(1) Powder is filled inside a cylindrical cell (upper fixed cell, lower movable cell), and vertical stress is gradually applied at a constant rate.
(2) After reaching the specified value of the normal stress, the normal stress load is stopped and a relaxation time of the powder layer is provided in a constant volume state.
(3) After sufficient stress relaxation has occurred, a horizontal external force is applied to the cell at a constant speed.
(4) After the shear reaches a steady state (a state in which the values of the vertical stress and the shear stress are constant), the vertical stress is gradually attenuated while maintaining the external force in the horizontal direction.
(5) Plotting the shear stress τ (vertical axis: y-axis) corresponding to each vertical stress σ (horizontal axis: x-axis) obtained by detecting the vertical stress and shear stress in the damping process, and breaking envelope A line PYL is obtained.
(6) The curving degree of the fracture envelope PYL defined by the following formula is calculated.
2. The evaluation method according to claim 1, wherein the range of the normal stress applied in (1) of the procedure is 20 to 125 kPa.
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