JP2014224057A - Cosmetic composition for keratin fiber - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a cosmetic composition for a keratin fiber in foam state prepared by mixing (i) an alkali-containing composition, and (ii) a developer composition at the time of use and used to depigment or pigment hair.SOLUTION: The invention relates to a cosmetic composition which comprises (a) at least one fatty material, (b) at least one surfactant, (c) at least one non-volatile alkali component, and (d) at least one oxidation component, wherein both (i) an alkali-containing composition and (ii) a developer composition contain (a) the fatty material, and (ii) the developer composition comprises, except a surfactant (b), an emulsifying agent less than 4% by weight based on the weight of the developer and having HLB of preferably at least 7.

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, in particular in the form of a foam.

  In addition to improving the performance of products that decolorize or color hair, consumers of such products are becoming increasingly sensitive to the quality of use of the product. From a use quality point of view, for example, malodor from ammonia typically contained as an alkaline agent in conventional hair bleaching or coloring products; conventional hair bleaching or coloring product self in the form of a liquid, gel or cream Difficulties in handling; risk of dripping of the product when applied to the hair can be considered as a serious drawback.

  To alleviate the problems caused by the pungent odor of ammonia, it has been proposed to replace this alkaline agent in whole or in part with another such as monoethanolamine. However, this causes decolorization of the composition or a decrease in coloring efficiency. As a result, the odor problem due to the presence of ammonia has not been solved.

  Recently, compositions containing large amounts of fatty materials have been proposed as an alternative to hair dyeing or bleaching compositions based on ammonia as the alkaline agent. Such compositions usually contain or do not contain oxidation dyes and contain more than 20% fatty material in combination with an oxidant. Such compositions provide a high decolorizing or coloring ability with relatively little alkaline agent, advantageously free of ammonia.

  Recently, foam-like structures have been recognized in the market as providing significant improvements, particularly in terms of ease of self-handling, in order to enhance the quality of use of hair bleaching or colored products. Currently commercially available hair bleaching or coloring products applied in the form of foam generally contain foaming surfactants, oxidizing agents and alkaline agents, with or without oxidizing dyes. Ammonia is commonly used as an alkaline agent in such products in order to achieve sufficient bleaching or coloring properties comparable to conventional hair bleaching or coloring products.

  So far, since it is believed that a large amount of fatty material inhibits or breaks down the foam, in order to obtain a composition in the form of a foam, a composition containing a large amount of a fatty compound is proposed. There wasn't. On the other hand, it has two separate phases, an aqueous phase and a hydrophobic phase, used as a developer preparation for oxidative dyes or lighteners to reduce hair damage under oxidative strong alkaline conditions A cosmetic preparation has been proposed (see Patent Document 1). However, this type of product is still in liquid or cream form and its quality of use is still unsatisfactory.

US Patent Publication No. US2012 / 0312318

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Accordingly, one object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, which is in the form of a foam and contains a large amount of fatty material, but is still good. It is to provide a cosmetic composition that has foaming performance and can exhibit good stability of the resulting foam as well as good decolorization or dyeing ability.

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have conducted intensive research to prepare a liquid developer as an oil / water two-phase, without losing foaming performance. Preferably, it has been found that liquid fatty materials such as mineral oil can be added to the cosmetic composition, and this fact has led to the completion of the present invention.

Accordingly, in one embodiment of the present invention, a cosmetic for keratin fibers in the form of a foam, prepared by mixing (i) an alkali-containing composition and (ii) a developer composition at the time of use. A composition is provided, the cosmetic composition comprising:
(A) at least one fatty material;
(B) at least one surfactant;
(C) at least one non-volatile alkaline component, and (d) at least one oxidizing component,
Here, (i) the alkali-containing composition or decoloring composition and (ii) the developer composition both include (a) a fatty material, and (ii) the developer composition has a surface active property. Apart from agent (b), it comprises an emulsifier having an HLB of less than 4% (by weight), preferably at least 7, relative to the weight of the developer.

(Ii) the developer composition is a two-phase consisting of an aqueous phase and a fatty phase before forming the foam (ie, before shaking), and the developer composition comprises:
(1) preferably 10 to 50% (weight) of fatty material, based on the total weight of the developer composition;
(2) water and an oxidizing component; and (3) at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants. An agent, preferably a nonionic surfactant, and (4) Apart from surfactant (b), it has an HLB of less than 4% (by weight), preferably at least 7, relative to the weight of the developer. emulsifier,
It is preferable to contain.

  The two-phase composition of the present invention means a composition composed of two separated phases, in particular an aqueous phase and a fatty phase, which are visually distinct at rest. The two phases are separated by a single interface at rest, but in an emulsion, one of the phases is dispersed in the form of a number of droplets in the other phase, so there are multiple interfaces. .

  Among the nonionic surfactants according to the invention, mention may be made of aliphatic alcohols, α-diols and alkylphenols alone or as a mixture, these three types of compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated And / or polyglycerolated and, for example, an aliphatic chain containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular an ethylene oxide or propylene oxide group which can be a number in the range 2-50, and in particular in the range 2-30. Containing glycerol groups, which can be Also, copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide and aliphatic alcohols; preferably polyethoxylated fatty acid amides having 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, on average 1 to 5, in particular, Polyglycerolated fatty acid amide containing 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid ester of sorbitan containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, fatty acid ester of sucrose, fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol, alkylpolyglycoside, N- Mention may be made of amine oxides such as alkylglucamine derivatives, (C10-C14) alkylamine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. Preferably, the surfactant is selected from nonionic surfactants, specifically selected from (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols; glycerolated fatty alcohols; alkyl polyglycosides (APGs) and mixtures thereof. The

In particular, (ii) the surfactant (b) contained in the developer composition is preferably APG, more particularly the formula:
R ¹ O— (R ² O) _t (G) _v
[Where:
R ¹ is 1 to 30, preferably 6 to 28, more preferably a linear or branched alkyl radical containing 8 to 26 carbon atoms, or 7 to 30, preferably 7 to 28, more. Preferably represents an aralkyl radical containing 7 to 26 carbon atoms;
R ² represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
G represents a reducing sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms;
t represents 0 to 10; preferably 0 to 4, particularly 0 to 4; and v represents an integer of 1 to 15]
It is a glucoside type | mold surfactant represented by these.

Preferred alkyl polyglycosides of the invention are those in the formulas herein above, wherein R ¹ more particularly represents a straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, A compound in which t represents a value in the range 0-3, more particularly equal to 0, and G may represent glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v in the formula, may range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4. More specifically, the average degree of polymerization is from 1 to 2, and even more preferably from 1.1 to 1.5.

  The glycosidic bond between sugar units is a 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably 1-4 type glycoside bond.

  The APGs represented by the formulas herein above are sold in particular under the names Plantaren® (600CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000) by Cognis. It corresponds to the product. Also, products sold under the names Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix (registered trademark) NS 10) by SEPPIC, and Lutensol GD 70 by BASF. It is also possible to use a product or a product sold under the name AG10 LK from Chem Y.

  For example, it is also possible to use a 53% aqueous solution of (C8-C16) alkyl-1,4-polyglucoside sold by Cognis under the reference name Plantacare (registered trademark) 818 UP. is there.

  The glucoside surfactant is more preferably selected from the group consisting of caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside and oleyl glucoside.

  (A) The fatty material may preferably be in liquid form at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.

  (A) The amount of the fatty material is 20% (weight) or more, preferably 30% (weight) or more, more preferably 40% (weight) or more with respect to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is preferable.

  The cosmetic composition preferably further contains a polyol such as glycerol.

  (D) The oxidizing component may preferably be selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromate, ferricyanide, perbromate and persulfate.

  The cosmetic composition preferably further comprises (e) at least one coloring substance selected from the group consisting of direct dyes and oxidation dyes, more preferably from oxidation dyes.

In another aspect of the present invention, a method for producing a cosmetic for keratin fibers is provided, the method comprising:
(A) forming a foam by mixing or shaking the cosmetic composition of the present invention; and (b) applying the foam to keratin fibers.

The production method of the cosmetic is preferably after (b) of the production method,
(C) maintaining the keratin fibers for 0.5 to 60 minutes, preferably 1 to 30 minutes, more preferably 2 to 20 minutes; and (d) rinsing and / or drying the keratin fibers. .

  Non-aerosol devices or aerosol devices can be used to form the foam.

Accordingly, in a particular embodiment of the invention, a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers in the form of a foam, prepared by mixing (i) an alkali-containing composition and (ii) a developer composition at the time of use. Product is provided, the cosmetic composition comprising:
(A) preferably at least one fatty material in an amount greater than 20% (by weight) relative to the total weight of the composition;
(B) at least one amphoteric surfactant, and preferably at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkylpolyglucosides,
(C) at least one non-volatile alkaline component, and (d) at least one oxidizing component,
Wherein (i) the alkali-containing composition and (ii) developer composition both comprise (a) a fatty material, and (ii) the developer composition comprises surfactant (b) and Apart from that, it comprises an emulsifier having an HLB of less than 4% (by weight), preferably at least 7, relative to the weight of the developer.

The present invention also relates to a multi-compartment system or kit comprising at least two separation compartments, wherein the first compartment of the separation compartment comprises (a) at least one fatty material and (c) at least one non-volatile alkaline component. And optionally (e) a composition comprising at least one coloring substance, and the second compartment comprises (a) at least one fatty material and (d) at least one oxidizing component. Including
Here, (b) the surfactant is present in the first compartment, the second compartment, or other compartment (s).

  Multi-compartment systems or kits may include non-aerosol devices or aerosol devices for forming foam.

In yet another aspect of the present invention, a developer composition (ii) is provided for treating keratin fibers in combination with an oxidative dye precursor (oxidized base and potentially a coupler), the composition comprising water Exists in a two-phase form consisting of a phase and a fat phase,
Wherein the aqueous phase comprises (d) an oxidizing agent and a foaming surfactant, and the fatty phase comprises fatty material in an amount of 10% to 50% (weight) relative to the total weight of the composition. And (ii) the developer composition comprises, apart from the surfactant (b), an emulsifier having an HLB of less than 4% (by weight), preferably at least 7, relative to the weight of the developer. .

  The foaming surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.

EFFECT OF THE INVENTION It has been unexpectedly found that the cosmetic composition of the present invention provides higher hair bleaching performance and sufficient foaming performance, and that the two-phase structure can also stabilize the developer.

DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS The cosmetic composition of the present invention is in the form of a foam and is prepared by mixing (i) an alkali-containing composition and (ii) a developer composition at the time of use. Features. In the present invention, the terms “foam” and “mousse” are used interchangeably.

  The foam or mousse of the present invention is a mixture of a gas, preferably air, and preferably a composition in the form of a liquid, cream or gel, and the mixture (expanded or aerated composition) is at room temperature ( Preferably, it can have a density of less than 0.5, more preferably less than 0.3, and better still less than 0.2. The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be an aerated composition.

  In the following description of the present invention, first, (i) each of the alkali-containing composition and (ii) the developer composition, and then the general components will be described in detail.

(I) Alkali-containing composition The alkali-containing composition comprises at least (a) a fatty material, preferably a liquid fatty material such as mineral oil, (b) a surfactant, (c) a non-volatile alkaline agent, and (e ) Coloring materials, which are described in detail herein below.

(A) Fatty Material The alkali-containing composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty material and may be used in combination of two or more fatty materials. Thus, a single type of fatty material or a combination of different types of fatty material may be used.

  The term “fatty material” is insoluble (5%, preferably 1%, even more preferably less than 0.1% solubility) in water at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). An organic compound is meant. The fatty material may contain in its structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least two consecutive siloxane groups or at least six carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances can be soluble in organic solvents such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane under the same temperature and pressure conditions.

Within the scope of the present invention, fatty materials (s), it should be noted that it does not contain nor polyglycerolated units any C ₂ -C ₃ oxyalkylene units.

  The fatty material may be in liquid or solid form. Here, “liquid” and “solid” means that the fatty material is in the form of liquid or paste (non-solid) or solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa), respectively. Means. The fatty material is preferably in the form of a liquid or paste, more preferably in the form of a liquid, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

  The fatty material consists of oils of animal or vegetable origin, mineral oils, synthetic glycerides, fatty alcohols and / or fatty acid esters other than animal or vegetable oils and synthetic glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, silicone oils and aliphatic hydrocarbons You may select from a group. These fatty materials may be volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the fatty material (s) are selected from aliphatic hydrocarbons, vegetable oils, fatty alcohols, animal or vegetable oils and fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than synthetic glycerides, or mixtures thereof.

  Examples of aliphatic hydrocarbons include, for example, mineral oil (eg, liquid paraffin), linear or branched hydrocarbons such as paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene (such as pearl reamer) ) And decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

As examples of other aliphatic hydrocarbons, mention may also be made of linear or branched or possibly cyclic C ₆ -C ₁₆ lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffin (such as isohexadecane and isodecane).

  Examples of synthetic glycerides include, for example, caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Sterineries Dubois or sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel. be able to.

  Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes (dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc.); cyclic organopolysiloxanes (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl) Cyclohexasiloxane etc.); and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, southern oil, castor Mention may be made of oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene, perhydrosqualene, and squalane.

Advantageously, as examples of esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols apart from the aforementioned animal or vegetable oils and synthetic glycerides, in particular saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic mono -Or poly-acid esters and saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic mono- or poly-alcohol esters (the ester has a total carbon number of 10 or more) be able to.

Among the monoesters, dihydroabietyl behenate; behenate octyldodecyl; behenate isocetyl; cetyl lactate; lactic C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; lactic linoleyl; lactic oleyl; octoate (iso) Stearyl; Isocetyl octanoate; Octyl octanoate; Cetyl octanoate; Decyl oleate; Isocetyl isostearate; Isocetyl laurate; Isocetyl stearate; Isodecyl octanoate; Isononyl oleate; Acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyl erucate Decyl; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitate; 2-ethylhexyl palmitate; 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristate (isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, etc.), myristyl or stearyl myristate, stearic acid Examples include hexyl, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Furthermore, within the framework of this variant, esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids and esters of C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols, and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri- An ester of-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohol may be used.

  The following may be mentioned in particular: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylate; Octyldodecyl stearoyl; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; Tridecyl acid; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; Kuchirudodeshiru; citric trioleyl; propylene glycol dioctanoate; diheptanoate neopentyl glycol; Jiisononan diethylene; and polyethylene glycol distearate.

  Among the above-mentioned esters, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristate (isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, etc.) or 2-octyldodecyl myristate Hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate are preferably used.

Alkaline-containing composition also contains as fatty acid _esters, C 6 _{-C 30, preferably,} may comprise sugar esters and diesters of C 12 _{-C 22} fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means an oxygen-supported hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions with or without aldehyde or ketone functions and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. Is done. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

  Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fructose, maltose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives (particularly alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, For example, methyl glucose) is included.

The sugar esters of fatty acids are in particular the esters or mixtures of sugars mentioned above and mixtures of esters or esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids. You may select from the group containing. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

  The esters of this variant may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri-, tetraesters and polyesters and mixtures thereof.

  These esters include, for example, oleic acid ester, lauric acid ester, palmitic acid ester, myristic acid ester, behenic acid ester, coconut fatty acid ester, stearic acid ester, linoleic acid ester, linolenic acid ester, capric acid ester and arachidonic acid ester. Or a mixture thereof (especially a mixed ester of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, etc.).

  It is more particularly preferred to use monoesters and diesters, in particular mono- or dioleic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleopalmitic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and soleose oleostearate, glucose or methylglucose.

  An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is methyl glucose dioleate.

Examples of sugar and fatty acid esters or mixtures of esters that may be mentioned include the following:
-Products sold by Crodesta under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40 (73% monoester and 27% diester and triester, 61% monoester and 39% diester and triester, respectively) And tetraesters, 52% monoesters and 48% diesters, triesters and tetraesters, 45% monoesters and 55% diesters, triesters and tetraesters, 39% monoesters and 61% diesters, triesters and tetraesters Represents sucrose palmitostearate formed from esters, as well as sucrose monolaurate);
A product sold under the name Ryoto sugar ester, for example corresponding to the reference name B370 and sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-, triester-polyester;
-Mono-dipalmito-sucrose stearate sold under the name Tegosoft® PSE by the company Goldschmidt.

  The fatty material may be at least one fatty acid and may use more than one fatty acid. Fatty acids should be in the acid form (ie, non-salted to avoid alkali salts) and may be saturated or unsaturated, and have 6 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly May contain from 9 to 30 carbon atoms, especially substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups (especially 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. These are more particularly selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid. Preferably the fatty material is not a fatty acid.

  The fatty material may comprise at least one fatty alcohol and may use more than one fatty alcohol.

The term “fatty alcohol” is used herein to mean any saturated or unsaturated straight or branched chain, in particular optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups (especially 1 to 4). C ₈ -C ₃₀ means an aliphatic alcohol. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Among C ₈ -C ₃₀ aliphatic alcohols, for example, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ aliphatic alcohols are used. Among these, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl Mention may be made of alcohols as well as mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof (eg, cetearyl alcohol) as well as myristyl alcohol can be used as the solid fatty material. In another embodiment, isostearyl alcohol can be used as the liquid fatty material.

  The fatty material may be wax. Here, “wax” means that the fatty material is in a substantially solid form at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and generally has a melting point of 35 ° C. or higher. To do. As the waxy fatty material, waxes generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

For example, waxes include carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite, hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyethylene wax (eg, the wax sold under the name “Performalene 400 Polyethylene” by New Phase Technologies), silicone wax, eg, (C ₂₄ -C ₂₈ ) alkylmethyldimethylsiloxane (for example, a product sold under the name “Abil Wax 9810” by Goldschmidt), palm butter, sold under the name “Kester Wa K82H” by Kester Keunen stearate _C 20 _{-C 40} alkyl are, stearyl benzoate, may be selected from shellac, and mixtures thereof. For example, a wax selected from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ozokerite, hydrogenated jojoba oil and polyethylene wax is used. In at least one embodiment, the wax is preferably selected from candelilla wax and ozokerite and mixtures thereof.

  According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty material is different from the aliphatic alcohol.

  The cosmetic composition of the present invention is more preferably a straight chain or branched chain hydrocarbon of more than 16 carbon atoms of linear or branched C6-C16 lower alkane, mineral, animal or synthetic origin as the fatty material. For example, liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, squalane, liquid fatty alcohol and liquid fatty acid ester, more preferably liquid paraffin and liquid petrolatum.

  Mineral oil is preferred as the fatty material.

  (A) The amount of the fatty material (s), preferably the liquid fatty material, is preferably 20% (by weight) or more, preferably 30%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention. (Weight) or more, more preferably 40% (weight) or more, and still more preferably 50% (weight) or more.

  (A) The fatty material (s), preferably the liquid fatty material is 20% to 90% (by weight), preferably 25% to the total weight of the dyeing composition or developer composition Present in an amount ranging from 80% (weight), more preferably in an amount ranging from 30% to 70% (weight), even more preferably in an amount ranging from 35% to 70% (weight). Good.

(B) Surfactant The alkali-containing composition (i) of the present invention contains at least one surfactant.

  Any surfactant can be used in the present invention. The surfactant used in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a cationic surfactant and a nonionic surfactant. Two or more surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants may be used. Preferably, according to the present invention, the “surfactant” is capable of forming a foam using water without the addition of additives.

(B-1) Anionic surfactant According to the present invention, the type of the anionic surfactant is not limited. Anionic surfactants, sulfate _(C 6 _{-C 30)} alkyl sulfate _(C 6 _{-C 30)} alkyl ether sulfate _(C 6 _{-C 30)} alkylamido ether, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; Sulfonic acid (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl, sulfonic acid (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkylamide, sulfonic acid (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkylaryl, α-olefin sulfonic acid, sulfonic acid paraffin; phosphoric acid (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkyl; sulfosuccinates _(C 6 _{-C 30)} alkyl, sulfosuccinic acid _(C 6 _{-C 30)} alkyl ether sulfosuccinic acid _(C 6 _{-C 30)} alkylamide; sulfoacetate _(C 6 _{-C 30)} alkyl; sarcosinates _(C 6 _{-C 24)} acyl; glutamate _(C 6 _{-C 24)} acyl _(C 6 _{-C 30)} alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic acid ether; sulfosuccinates _(C 6 _{-C 30)} alkylpolyglycoside; sulfosuccinates _(C 6 _{-C 30)} alkyl; isethionate _(C 6 _{-C 24)} acyl; taurine acid _N- (C 6 _{-C 24) acyl;} C 6 _{-C 30} fatty acid salts; coconut oil acid salts or hydrogenated coconut oil acid salts; acid _(C 8 _{-C 20) acyl;} (C 6 _{-C 30)} alkyl -D- galactosiduronic salts; polyoxyalkylenated _(C 6 _{-C 30)} alkyl ether carboxylates; polyoxyalkylenated _(C 6 _{-C 30)} alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts; and polyoxyalkylenated (C Preferably it is selected from the group consisting of _{6- C30} ) alkylamide ether carboxylates.

More preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from a salt of a sulfuric acid (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl or a polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ether carboxylate.

  In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt such as an alkali metal, such as a sodium salt; an alkaline earth metal, such as a magnesium salt; an ammonium salt; an amine salt; and an amino alcohol salt. It is. Depending on the conditions, these may be in the acid form.

(B-2) Amphoteric Surfactant According to the present invention, the type of amphoteric surfactant is not limited. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be, for example (to name non-limiting examples), amine derivatives, such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, The aliphatic radical is a straight or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble negative group (eg, carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid or phosphonic acid). is there.

  The amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaine and amidoamine carboxylated derivatives.

Betaine type amphoteric surfactant, preferably, alkyl betaines, alkyl amido alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines and alkyl amidoalkyl sulfobetaines, in _particular, (C 8 _{-C 24) alkylbetaines, (C} 8 -C ₂₄₎ alkylamido _(C 1 -C ₈₎ alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines and _(C 8 _{-C 24)} alkylamido _(C 1 -C ₈₎ is selected from the group consisting of alkyl sulfobetaines. In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylbetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamides (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkylsulfobetaines, sulfobetaines and phosphobetaines. Selected.

  Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned are cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco / oleamidopropylbetaine, cocoamidopropylbetaine, palmitoamidopropylbetaine, stearamidepropyl in the CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002 Included are the compounds classified under the names betaine, cocoamidoethylbetaine, cocoamidopropyl hydroxy sultain, oleamido propyl hydroxy sultain, coco hydroxy sultain, lauryl hydroxy sultain and coco sultain alone or as a mixture.

  The betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are preferably alkylbetaines and alkylamidoalkylbetaines, in particular cocobetaine and cocoamidopropylbetaine.

Among the amidoamine carboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of products sold under the name Miranol, which are described in US Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354, the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 (the disclosure is , Incorporated herein by reference), are classified under the names amphocarboxyglycinate and amphocarboxypropionate, respectively:
R ¹ —C (O) —N (H) —CH ₂ —CH ₂ —N ⁺ (R ² ) (R ³ ) —CH ₂ COO ⁻
[Where:
R ¹ represents an alkyl radical, heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical of the acid R ¹ —COOH present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, R ² represents a β-hydroxyethyl group, and R ³ represents a carboxymethyl group And the formula:
R ^{1 ′} —C (O) —N (H) —CH ₂ —CH ₂ —N (B) —C
[Where:
B _represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ -OX ',
C _{is, - (CH 2) z -Y} ' represents (z = 1 or 2),
X _{'is, -CH 2 -CH 2 -C (O} ) OH _{group, -CH 2 -C (O) OZ} ', - CH 2 -CH 2 -C (O) OH, -CH 2 -CH 2 -C (O) represents OZ ′ or a hydrogen atom,
Y ′ represents —C (O) OH, —C (O) OZ ′, —CH ₂ —CH (OH) —SO ₃ Z ′ or —CH ₂ —CH (OH) —SO ₃ H radical;
Z ′ represents an ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal ion such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an organic amine, and R ^{1 ′} represents an acid R ^{1 ′} —C present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil. (O) represents an OH alkyl radical, an alkyl radical, such as a C ₇ , C ₉ , C ₁₁ or C ₁₃ alkyl radical, a C ₁₇ alkyl radical and its isoform, or an unsaturated C ₁₇ radical]
It has the structure represented by these.

Amphoteric surfactants, Anhomono acetate _(C 8 _{-C 24)} - alkyl, Anhoji acetate _(C 8 _{-C 24)} alkyl, amphoacetates mono acid _(C 8 _{-C 24)} alkyl and amphodicarboxylic acid _{(C 8} - Preferably it is selected from C ₂₄ ) alkyl.

  These compounds are listed in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, in the disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphopropionate, capryl They are classified under the names of disodium amphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

  As an example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia Chimie under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate.

(B-3) Cationic Surfactant According to the present invention, the type of the cationic surfactant is not limited. The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof. .

Examples of the quaternary ammonium salts that can be cited include, but are not limited to, the following general formula (I):

[Where:
R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ may be the same or different and contain 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally contain heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen. Selected from linear and branched aliphatic radicals. Aliphatic radical is, for example, alkyl, _alkoxy, C 2 -C ₆ polyoxyalkylene, _alkylamido, (C 12 _{-C 22)} alkylamido _(C 2 -C _{6) alkyl,} (C 12 _{-C 22)} alkyl acetate and hydroxyalkyl radicals; may be selected from and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and, X ^- is a halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, sulfate (C 2 _{-C 6)} alkyl alkyl and sulfonic acid or Selected from alkylaryl]
Represented by:
A quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline, for example the following formula (II):

[Where:
R ⁵ is selected from alkenyl and alkyl radicals containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as tallow or coconut fatty acid derivatives;
R ⁶ is selected from hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
R ⁷ is selected from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals;
R ⁸ is selected from hydrogen and a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical; and X ^— is selected from halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, alkyl sulfate, alkyl sulfonate and alkylaryl sulfonate. In one embodiment, R ⁵ and R ⁶ are, for example, a mixture of radicals selected from alkenyl and alkyl radicals containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as tallow fatty acid derivatives, and R 7 is methyl. And R8 is hydrogen]
(Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA) sold by Witco under the names “Rewoquat®” W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG. 1997) and Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997));
Formula (III):

[Where:
R ⁹ is selected from an aliphatic radical containing 16 to 30 carbon atoms;
R ¹⁰ is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or the group (R ^16a ) (R ^17a ) (R ^18a ) N ⁺ (CH ₂ ) ₃ ;
R ¹¹ , R ¹² , R ¹³ , R ¹⁴ , R ^16a , R ^17a and R ^18a may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and X ^-, a halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, is selected from ethyl sulfate and methyl sulfate]
The diquaternary ammonium salt represented by these is contained.

Examples of such diquaternary ammonium salts include FINNETT FINQUAT CT-P (Quaternium-89) or FINNETEX FINQUAT CT (Quaternium-75); and a quaternary ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group For example, the following formula (IV):

[Where:
R ²² is selected from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radicals and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
R ²³ is:

Selected from the radicals represented by: straight chain and branched chain saturated and unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon radicals R ²⁷ , and hydrogen;
R ²⁵ is:

Selected from the radicals represented by: straight chain and branched chain saturated and unsaturated C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon radicals R 29, and hydrogen;
R ²⁴ , R ²⁶ and R ²⁸ may be the same or different and are selected from linear and branched saturated and unsaturated C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon based radicals;
r, s and t may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 2 to 6;
each of r1 and t1 may be the same or different and is 0 or 1, and r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + 2t = 2t;
y is selected from an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
x and z may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
X ⁻ is selected from organic and inorganic simple and complex anions;
However, the sum of x + y + z is in the range of 1-15, when x is 0, R ²³ represents R ²⁷ and when z is 0, R ²⁵ represents R ²⁹ . R ²² may be selected from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R ²² is selected from a linear alkyl radical. In another embodiment, R ²² is selected from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl and dihydroxypropyl radicals such as methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum of x + y + z ranges from 1-10. If R ²³ is a hydrocarbon-based radical R ^27, which may comprise 1 to 3 carbon atoms has a well, or short chain contains 12-22 carbon atoms in length chain. When R ²⁵ is a hydrocarbon radical R ²⁹ it may contain, for example, 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R ²⁴ , R ²⁶ and R ²⁸ may be the same or different and are linear and branched saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon systems. radicals, for example, are selected from linear and branched saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radicals. In another embodiment, x and z may be the same or different and are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1]
It is represented by

In another embodiment, r, s and t may be the same or different and are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X ⁻ may be selected from, for example, halides such as chloride, bromide and iodide; and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl sulfates such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, anions derived from organic acids (such as acetate and lactate), and any other anions compatible with ammonium containing ester functional groups may be used in accordance with the present invention. Other non-limiting examples of anions that may be suitable.

In one embodiment, the anion X ⁻ is selected from chloride and methyl sulfate.

In another embodiment,
R ²² is selected from methyl and ethyl radicals;
x and y are equal to 1;
z is equal to 0 or 1;
r, s and t are equal to 2;
R ²³ is:

A radical represented by the formula: methyl, ethyl, and a C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon radical, hydrogen;
R ²⁵ is:

Selected from the radicals represented by
R ²⁴ , R ²⁶ and R ²⁸ may be the same or different and are straight and branched chain saturated and unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon radicals, for example, straight and branched chain saturated and it is selected from unsaturated _C 13 _{-C 17} alkyl and alkenyl radicals,
An ammonium salt of the formula (IV) may be used.

  In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon radical is a straight chain.

  Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (IV) that may be mentioned include, for example, diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethyl-methylammonium chloride and methyl sulfate. , Triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium salts and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radical may contain 14-18 carbon atoms and may be derived from vegetable oils such as, for example, palm oil and sunflower oil. If the compound contains several acyl radicals, these radicals may be the same or different.

  These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or Can be obtained by transesterification of their methyl esters. Following this esterification, alkyl halides such as methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates such as dimethyl sulfate and diethyl; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl paratoluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin It may be quaternized using an alkylating agent selected from:

  Such compounds include, for example, Dehyquart® from Cognis, Stepanquat® from Stepan, Noxamium® from Ceca, and “Rewoquat® WE 18” from Rewo-Goldschmidt. It is sold under the name.

  Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that may be used in the compositions of the present invention include ammonium salts containing at least one ester functionality as described in US Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.

  Among the aforementioned quaternary ammonium salts that may be used in the composition of the present invention, those not particularly limited include those corresponding to formula (I), such as tetraalkylammonium chloride, such as dialkyldimethylammonium chloride and chloride. Alkyltrimethylammonium (the alkyl radical of which contains about 12-22 carbon atoms), such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyl chloride Trimethylammonium; and stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride (sold under the name “Ceraphyl® 70” by Van Dyk).

  According to one embodiment, cationic surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the invention are quaternary ammonium salts such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quaternium-83, Quaternium- 87, Quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

(B-4) Nonionic surfactants Nonionic surfactants are compounds that are well known per se ("Handbook of Surfactants" by MR Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991). , pp.116-178). They are therefore, for example, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated, for example alcohols, α-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acids having at least one fatty chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms. The number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups can range from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups can range from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of maltose derivatives. Also, as non-limiting examples, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and aliphatic alcohols; for example, polyethoxylated fatty acid amides containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; Polyglycerolated fatty acid amides containing 1 to 5 (such as 1.5 to 4) glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of plant origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose Fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; fatty acid mono- or diesters of glycerol; (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) alkylpolyglycosides; N- (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides, for example (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ ) Al Le amine oxides or _N- (C 10 _{-C 14)} acyl aminopropyl morpholine oxide; as well as mixtures thereof.

  The nonionic surfactant may preferably be selected from monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. More specifically, the oxyalkylene unit is an oxyethylene or oxypropylene unit or a combination thereof, preferably an oxyethylene unit.

Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned, in particular, oxyalkylenated (C 8 _{-C 24)} alkylphenols, linear saturated or unsaturated or branched chain oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ amides of saturated or unsaturated esters of linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids and polyethylene glycols, saturated or unsaturated, linear, saturated or unsaturated polyoxyalkylenated esters of chain or branched-chain C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids and sorbitol, oxyalkylenated plant oils, saturated or unsaturated, condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide are contained alone or as a mixture.

  The surfactant may contain 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant does not contain any oxypropylene units.

According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, it oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols or ethoxylated fatty acid esters.

Examples of ethoxylated fatty alcohols (or C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols) that may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide and lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing 9-50 oxyethylene groups, more particularly , Containing 10 to 12 oxyethylene groups (CTFA names: Laureth-10 to Laureth-12); adducts of ethylene oxide and behenyl alcohol, especially containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups (CTFA) Names: Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-50); adducts of ethylene oxide and cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing 10-30 oxyethylene groups (as CTFA names, Ceteareth -10 to Ceteareth-30); adducts of ethylene oxide and cetyl alcohol, in particular 10 to Those containing 0 oxyethylene groups (CTFA names, Ceteth-10 to Ceteth-30); Adducts of ethylene oxide and stearyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA names) , Steareth-10 to Steareth-30); adducts of ethylene oxide and isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups (CTFA names Isosteareth-10 to Isosteareth-50); and their A mixture is included.

  Examples of ethoxylated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned are adducts of ethylene oxide and esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid and mixtures thereof, in particular those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups For example, lauric acid PEG-9 to PEG-50 (CTFA name: lauric acid PEG-9 to lauric acid PEG-50); palmitic acid PEG-9 to PEG-50 (CTFA name: palmitic acid PEG-9 to Palmitic acid PEG-50); stearic acid PEG-9 to PEG-50 (as CTFA names: stearic acid PEG-9 to stearic acid PEG-50); palmitostearic acid PEG-9 to PEG-50; behenic acid PEG- 9 to PEG-50 (as CTFA names: behenic acid PEG-9 to behenic acid EG-50); and mixtures thereof.

  Moreover, you may use the mixture of the oxyethylenated derivative of these aliphatic alcohol and fatty acid ester.

  According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one ethoxylated fatty alcohol.

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, it monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated _C 8 _{-C 40} alcohols, the following formula:
_{RO- [CH 2 -CH (CH 2} OH) -O] m -H or _{RO- [CH (CH 2 OH)} -CH 2 O] m -H
[Wherein R represents a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ , preferably a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m is in the range of 1-30, preferably 1-10. Represents the number of
It corresponds to.

  Examples of suitable compounds within the framework of the invention are lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl containing 4 mol of glycerol. Alcohol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol glycerol Mention may be made of olecetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol. In particular, lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerol, lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 10 mol glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol glycerol, 2 mol Cetearyl alcohol containing 6 glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol glycerol, behenyl alcohol containing 10 mol glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 mol glycerol and mixtures thereof Selected from.

  More preferably, it is selected from lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 10 mol glycerol, behenyl alcohol containing 10 mol glycerol and mixtures thereof.

  Alcohol may mean a mixture of alcohols as well, so that the value of m represents a statistic, which means that in the commercial product several types of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols coexist in the form of a mixture. It means to go.

Among the mono- or polyglycerolated alcohols, _C 8 _{/ C 10} alcohol containing glycerol 1mol, the _{C 12} alcohol containing glycerol _C 10 _{/ C 12} alcohol and 1.5mol containing glycerol 1mol It is more particularly preferable to use it.

  Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 8-18. HLB is the ratio of hydrophilic to lipophilic moieties in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described in "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to emulsifier selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).

  According to one embodiment of the invention, the amount of surfactant (s) is 0.1-20% (weight), preferably 0. 0%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition of the invention. It may be in the range of 5-15% (weight), more preferably 1-10% (weight).

(C) Nonvolatile alkaline agent According to one embodiment of the present invention, the alkali-containing composition (i) comprises at least one nonvolatile alkaline agent and uses two or more nonvolatile alkaline agents. It's okay. Thus, a single type of non-volatile alkaline agent or a combination of different types of non-volatile alkaline agents may be used.

  The term “non-volatile alkaline agent” means that the alkaline agent does not correspond to volatile ammonia. Nonvolatile agents within the scope of the present invention mean that their vapor pressure is generally below 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) at room temperature.

  The non-volatile alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. The inorganic alkaline agent is an alkali metal hydroxide salt; and an alkaline earth metal hydroxide salt; an alkali metal (hydrogen-containing) carbonate; an alkaline earth metal (hydrogen-containing) carbonate; and an alkali metal metasilicate. Preferably it is selected.

  Examples of the inorganic alkaline agent include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, potassium hydrogen carbonate and sodium metasilicate.

  The non-volatile alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. Organic alkaline agents are monoamines and their derivatives (such as alkanolamines); diamines and their derivatives (such as alkanolamines); polyamines and their derivatives; amino acids, preferably basic amino acids and their derivatives; amino acids, preferably It is preferably selected from the group consisting of: oligomers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; amino acids, preferably polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; ureas and their derivatives; and guanidines and their derivatives.

As examples of organic alkaline agents, mention may be made of alkanolamines, for example mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamines containing _{1 to} 3 hydroxyalkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) groups. In particular, alkanolamines are monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N, N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2- It may be selected from amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris (hydroxymethylamino) methane.

Organic alkaline agents are also urea, guanidine and their derivatives; amino acids such as alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine , Proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine; basic amino acids such as lysine, histidine, ornithine, citrulline or arginine; and diamines such as the following structures:

Wherein W represents an alkylene (such as propylene) optionally substituted with a hydroxyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd are independently a hydrogen atom, an alkyl to a radical or _C 1 -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radical]
May be selected from the group consisting of those described in (which may be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof).

  Among the amino acids, basic amino acids such as lysine, histidine, ornithine, citrulline or arginine are preferable.

  It is preferred that the non-volatile alkaline agent is selected from alkanolamines, specifically monoethanolamine.

  The non-volatile alkaline agent (s) is 0.01 to 15% (weight), preferably 0.1 to 10% (weight), more preferably, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention. It may be used in a total amount of 1-5% (weight).

(E) Coloring substance The alkali-containing composition (i) of the present invention may contain a coloring substance. Thus, a single type of colored material or a combination of different types of colored materials may be used.

  The coloring substance is preferably an oxidation dye. The oxidative dye is selected from oxidised bases, oxidised couplers and their acid addition salts.

  Oxidized bases are those conventionally known in oxidative dyeing, preferably the group consisting of ortho- and para-phenylenediamines, double bases, ortho- and para-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their acid addition salts. More can be selected.

  Among para-phenylenediamines, more particularly, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl -Para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N , N-dipropyl-paraphenylenediamine, 4-amino-N, N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -paraphenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis (β- Hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino 2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-paraphenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) -paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl -Para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methylparaphenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl-β-hydroxyethyl) -paraphenylenediamine, N- (β, γ-dihydroxypropyl) -para-phenylene Diamine, N- (4′-aminophenyl) -para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylamino-ethyloxy-para-phenylene Diamine, N- (β-methoxy Ethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 2-methyl-1-N-β-hydroxyethyl-paraphenylenediamine, N- (4-aminophenyl) -3-hydroxy-pyrrolidine, 2-[{2-[(4- Mention may be made of aminophenyl) amino] ethyl} (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -ethanol and their addition salts with acids. The most specific preferred bases are para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -paraphenylenediamine, 2 -Chloro-para-phenylenediamine and their addition salts with acids.

  Among the double bases, the following bases can be mentioned: N, N′-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N′-bis (4′-aminophenyl) -1,3-diaminopropanol, N, N′-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N′-bis (4′-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N′-bis (4-aminophenyl) -tetramethylenediamine, N, N′— Bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N′-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N′-bis (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N′-bis (ethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) ethylene-diamine, 1,8-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -3,5-dioxaoctane and their acids With Salt.

  Para-aminophenols that can be used are para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2. -Methylphenol, 4-amino-2-26hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol And their addition salts with acids.

  Ortho-aminophenols that can be used as oxidizing bases within the framework of the invention are, in particular, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-1-hydroxy-5-methylbenzene, 2-amino-1-hydroxy- Selected from 6-methylbenzene, 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and their addition salts with acids.

  Among the heterocyclic bases that can be used as the oxidizing base in the dyeing composition according to the invention, more particularly mention may be made of pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives and their addition salts with acids.

  Among the pyridine derivatives, more particularly, for example, compounds described in patents GB 1,026,978 and GB 1,153,196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-aminopyridine, Mention may be made of 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2- (β-methoxyethyl) amino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine and their addition salts with acids.

  Among the pyrimidine derivatives, more particularly, for example, compounds described in patent DE 2 359 399; JP 88-169571; JP 91-10659 or patent application WO 96/15765, for example 2, 4, 5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2 , 5,6-triamino-pyrimidine and pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives such as those described in patent application FR-A-2 750 048, and among others pyrazolo [1,5-a] -pyrimidine 3,7-diamine; 2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] -pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; Dimethylpyrazolo [1,5 a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol; 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol; 2- (3-amino-pyrazolo -[1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol, 2- (7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) ethanol, 2-[(3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5 -A] pyrimidin-7-yl)-(2-hydroxy-ethyl) amino] -ethanol, 2-[(7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] -pyrimidin-3-yl)-(2-hydroxyethyl) Amino] ethanol, 5,6-dimethylpyrazolo- [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo- [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-dia 2,5, N7, N7-tetramethyl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 3-amino-5-methyl-7-imidazolylpropyl-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] Mention may be made of pyrimidines, their addition salts and their tautomeric forms (if a tautomeric equilibrium exists) and their addition salts with acids.

  Among the pyrazole derivatives, more particularly, patents DE 3 843 892, DE 4 133 957 and published patent publications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 Compounds described in No. 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4′-chlorobenzyl) -pyrazole, 4,5- Diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5 -Hydrazino-pyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3 -Methylpyrazole, 4 5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) -3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4 , 5-Diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4′-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methyl Pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropyl-pyrazole, 4-amino-5- (2′-aminoethyl) amino- 1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triamino-pyrazole, 3,5- Amino-1-methyl-4-methylamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4- (beta-hydroxyethyl - ethyl) addition salts of amino-1-methylpyrazole and their acid.

  Among the heterocyclic bases that can be used as oxidizing bases, more particularly diaminopyrazolopyrazolones, in particular 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H- [pyrazolo1,2, a And pyrazol-1-one (IV) and addition salts of these diaminopyrazolopyrazolones with acids.

  The oxidative dye is preferably selected from the group consisting of meta-phenylenediamine, meta-aminophenol, meta-diphenol, naphthol, heterocyclic couplers and acid addition salts thereof from those conventionally known in oxidative dyeing. It can be an oxidized coupler.

  Heterocyclic couplers include indole derivatives, indoline derivatives, sesamol and derivatives thereof, pyridine derivatives, pyrazolotriazole derivatives, pyrazolone, indazole, benzimidazole, benzothiazole, benzoxazole, 1,3-benzodioxole, quinoline and their You may select from the group which consists of an addition salt with an acid.

  These couplers are more particularly 2,4-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2- Methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 2-chloro-3-amino-6-methylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-4- (β-28hydroxyethylamino) -1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 1,3 -Bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, sesamol, 1-amino-2-methoxy-4,5-methylene Dioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 6-hydroxy-indoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3- Methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,6-dimethylpyrazolo [3,2-c] -1,2,4- Selected from triazole, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-b] -1,2,4-triazole and their addition salts with acids.

  In general, the acid addition salts of oxidized bases and coupler acids are specifically selected from the hydrochloride, hydrobromide, sulfate, tartrate, lactate and acetate salts.

  The cosmetic composition of the present invention is 0.0001-20% (weight), preferably 0.0005-15% (weight), more preferably 0.005-10, based on the total weight of the composition. A% (weight) amount of oxidation dyes may be included.

  According to another embodiment of the invention, the coloring substance may be a direct dye or a mixture thereof. The direct dye may be a synthetic dye or a natural dye. The direct dye is more particularly selected from ionic and nonionic species, preferably cationic or nonionic species.

  Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include the following direct dyes: azo dyes; methine dyes; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro (hetero) aryl dyes; tri (hetero) arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; And natural direct dyes, alone or as a mixture.

  More specifically, the azo dye comprises a —N═N— functional group (the two nitrogen atoms of which are not simultaneously incorporated into the ring). However, one of the two nitrogen atoms of the sequence —N═N— shall be incorporated into the ring.

  The methine family of dyes is more particularly a compound comprising at least one sequence selected from> C = C <and -N = C <(the two nitrogen atoms are not simultaneously incorporated into the ring) It is.

  However, it should be noted that one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the sequence can be incorporated into the ring. More particularly, this family of dyes includes methine, azomethine, mono- and diarylmethane, indoamine (or diphenylamine), indophenol, indoaniline, carbocyanine, azacarbocyanine and their isomers, diazacarbocyanine. And their isomers, tetraazacarbocyanine and hemicyanine types of compounds.

  Examples of carbonyl family dyes that may be mentioned include acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthrone, pyrantron, pyrazole anthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavantron, indanthrone, flavone, (iso) Includes dyes selected from violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigoid, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole and coumarin .

  With respect to the dyes of the cyclic azine family, mention may be made in particular of azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluoridine, acridine, (di) oxazine, (di) thiazine and pyronin.

  Nitro (hetero) aromatic dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or nitropyridine direct dyes.

  For porphyrin or phthalocyanine type dyes it is possible to use cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally including one or more metals or metal ions, for example alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, zinc and silicon. is there.

  Examples of particularly suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include: nitrobenzene dyes; azo direct dyes; azomethine direct dyes; methine direct dyes; azacarbocyanine direct dyes such as tetraazacarbocyanine (tetraazapentamethine); quinones, Specific include anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone direct dyes; azines; xanthenes; triarylmethanes; indamines; indigoids; phthalocyanine direct dyes, porphyrins and natural direct dyes, alone or as a mixture thereof.

  Among the natural direct dyes that may be used in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made of Lawson, Juguron, Alizarin, Purpurin, Carminic Acid, Kermesic Acid, Purprogalin, Protocatechualdehyde, Indigo, Isatin, Curcumin, Spinulosin, Apigenin and Orcein. it can. It is also possible to use extracts or leachates containing these natural dyes, in particular henna-based poultices or extracts.

  When present, the direct dye (s) is more particularly 0.0001-10% (by weight), preferably 0.005-5% (by weight), based on the total weight of the composition. Equivalent to.

(Ii) Developer Composition The developer composition (ii) of the present invention preferably exists in two phases consisting of an aqueous phase and a fatty phase.

  The aqueous phase contains at least one oxidizing agent and one effervescent surfactant, and the fatty phase contains at least one fatty material as defined herein above. The fatty material is essentially the same as that contained in the above-mentioned (i) alkali-containing composition, but the content thereof is 10% to 50% with respect to the total weight of the developer composition. %, Preferably 15% to 40%, more preferably 20% to 30% (weight).

(D) Oxidizing agent The developer composition (ii) of the present invention contains at least one oxidizing agent in the aqueous phase, and two or more oxidizing agents may be used. Thus, a single type of oxidant or a combination of different types of oxidants may be used.

  The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, peroxygenated salts and compounds capable of generating hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent can be selected from aqueous hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromate and ferricyanide and peracid group salts such as perborate and persulfate.

  The oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide. The concentration of the oxidizing agent is 0.1 to 15% (weight), preferably 0.5 to 10% (weight), more preferably 1 to 5 based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention. % (Weight).

  In one embodiment, when the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, the composition may be, for example, alkali metal pyrophosphate and alkaline earth metal salts, alkali metal stannate and alkaline earth metal salts, phenacetin and acid. And at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizer, which may be selected from oxyquinoline salts (eg, oxyquinoline sulfate). In another embodiment, at least one stannate is used, optionally in combination with at least one pyrophosphate.

  It is also possible to use salicylic acid and their salts, pyridinedicarboxylic acid and their salts and paracetamol.

  In the cosmetic composition, the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide stabilizer is 0.0001-5% (weight), for example, 0.01-2% (weight), based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention. Range.

  In a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, the concentration ratio of hydrogen peroxide to stabilizer is 0.05: 1 to 1,000: 1, such as 0.1: 1 to 500: 1, more preferably 1: 1. It may be in the range of ~ 300: 1.

(B) Surfactant The developer composition (ii) of the present invention comprises at least one surfactant as defined hereinbefore in the aqueous phase. More specifically, the surfactant is preferably from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants, all of which are described above. Is selected from nonionic surfactants. (Ii) The surfactant contained in the composition is preferably an effervescent surfactant which is at least one glucoside surfactant and used in combination of two or more glucoside surfactants You can do it. Thus, a single type of glucoside surfactant or a combination of different types of glucoside surfactants may be used.

(B-5) Glucoside surfactant The glucoside surfactant may be preferably selected from the group consisting of alkyl glucoside and alkyl polyglucoside.

The glucoside surfactant is preferably the following general formula:
R ¹ O— (R ² O) _t (G) _v
[Where:
R ¹ is 1 to 30, preferably 6 to 28, more preferably a linear or branched alkyl radical containing 8 to 26 carbon atoms, or 7 to 30, preferably 7 to 28, more. Preferably, it represents an aralkyl radical containing 7 to 26 carbon atoms; R ² represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G contains 5 or 6 carbon atoms Represents a reducing sugar; t represents a value in the range of 0-10, preferably 0-4; and v represents a value in the range of 1-15, preferably 1-4.
Can be represented by

  The reducing sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms represented by G in the above formula may be selected from the group consisting of glucose, fructose and galactose.

  The glucoside-type surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.

Examples of alkyl polyglucosides may be mentioned, decyl glucoside (alkyl -C 9 _{/ C} 11 _- polyglucoside (1.4)), such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10 from Kao Chemicals, Inc., Henkel Products sold under the names Plantaren 2000 UP and Plantacare 2000 UP by the company, and products sold under the name Oramix NS10 by SEPPIC; capryl / caprylglucoside, for example, sold under the name Oramix CG110 by SEPPIC Products sold by BASF under the name Lutensol GD70; lauryl glucosides, for example products sold by Henkel under the names Plantaren 1200 N and Plantacare 1200; and cocoglucosides, for example by Henkel Includes products sold under the name Plantacare 818 / UP, as well as mixtures thereof.

  According to one embodiment of the present invention, the amount of (b) glucoside type surfactant (s) is 0.1-15% (weight) based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, Preferably, it may be in the range of 0.5 to 10% (weight), more preferably 1 to 5% (weight).

Emulsifier The developer composition may also contain at least one emulsifier having an HLB of at least 7, for example 7 to 13, apart from the surfactant (b), said emulsifier being the weight of the developer In an amount of 4% or less, ie 0 to 4% (weight).

  This emulsifier may be present in an amount of 3% (weight) or less, preferably 2% (weight) or less, more preferably 1% (weight) or less, relative to the total weight of the developer composition. .

  These emulsifiers may be selected from the nonionic surfactants described above, and preferably from ethoxylated fatty alcohols containing 2 to 20 ethylene oxide. Emulsifiers that may be used in the compositions of the present invention include adducts of ethylene oxide and lauryl alcohol, particularly those containing 3 to 5 oxyethylene groups (CTFA names Laureth-3 to Laureth-5); ethylene oxide And behenyl alcohol adducts, especially those containing 9 to 20 oxyethylene groups (CTFA names Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-20); and ethylene oxide and oleyl alcohol adducts, especially 9 to 15 Those containing an oxyethylene group (CTFA names Oleth-9 to Oleth-15) can be mentioned.

  These emulsifiers can control the stability of the emulsion after mixing the developer composition originally present in two phases. However, by adding these emulsifiers, the developer composition can be present in the emulsion state for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes after shaking of the composition.

  Being in the form of an emulsion for a period of time is particularly useful for measuring a specific amount of developer composition from a two-phase stock solution just before use.

Other Components The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises (i) an alkali-containing composition and (ii) a developer composition as defined hereinbefore, and optionally other components described later. Other compositions can be prepared by mixing. That is, the other components may be contained in either or both of (i) the alkali-containing composition and (ii) the developer composition, or other composition optionally included.

  Such other components of the present invention have been previously known in other parts of oxidative dyeing, such as various common auxiliaries such as ammonia, sequestering agents (such as EDTA and etidronic acid), UV blocking agents, silicones other than those listed above, such as organically modified silicones (such as those having amine groups), preservatives, ceramides, pseudoceramides, vitamins or provitamins such as panthenol, opacifiers, etc. It's okay.

  More specifically, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a prepared composition. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “prepared” composition is defined herein as a composition that is readily applied to keratin fibers such as hair. The “prepared” composition can be, for example, (i) an alkali-containing composition and (ii) a developer composition, and any optional ingredient (s) prior to application on keratin fibers, if necessary. May be prepared by mixing or shaking.

  The pH of the cosmetic composition of the present invention applied to keratin fibers may generally be, for example, 4-12. The pH may range from 6 to 12, preferably from 7 to 11, and may be adjusted to the desired value using at least one acidifying agent well known in the prior art.

  The acidifying agent can be, for example, a mineral acid or an organic acid such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acid such as tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid or sulfonic acid.

  The composition of the present invention may also contain a propellant. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “propellant” is any compound that is gaseous at a temperature of 20 ° C. and atmospheric pressure and that can be stored in liquid or gaseous form in an aerosol container under pressure. Means.

  The propellant may be selected from optionally halogenated volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane or halogenated hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen or compressed air may also be used as a propellant. A mixture of propellants may also be used. Dimethyl ether and / or non-halogenated volatile hydrocarbons are preferably used.

  The propellant (s) is contained in the composition at a content of 1% to 15%, preferably 2% to 10%, more preferably 3% to 8% (weight) relative to the total weight of the composition. May be present.

  The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be formulated into a multi-compartment system or kit comprising at least two separate compartments, wherein the first compartment comprises at least one fatty material (component (a)) and at least A non-volatile alkaline agent (component (d)) and optionally a composition comprising at least one coloring substance (direct dye and / or oxidative dye (component (e)), and the second compartment A composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent (component (d)); and optional optional component (s) in at least one of the first compartment and the second compartment or other compartment (s) Present separately or together; wherein the surfactant is present in either or both of the first compartment and the second compartment, or in the other compartment (s).

  A multi-compartment system may comprise means for mixing and / or applying the composition, such as valves and nozzles.

  The composition in the form of a foam of the present invention can be formed from the composition described above and air, an inert gas or a mixture thereof.

  According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention has the form of a temporary foam that is produced just before use.

  According to this embodiment, the composition can be packaged in a foam dispenser. It is dispensed from the pressurized container by a propellant gas and thereby dispensed from the container by a product called an “aerosol” that forms a foam upon dispensing, or by a mechanical pump connected to the dispensing head Any of the compositions can be produced by passing through a dispensing head, which is finally converted to foam at the outlet portion of such a head.

  According to the first variant, the dispenser is generally divided into two parts, one containing the developer composition and the other containing the alkali-containing composition and propulsion The aerosol may further contain an agent gas. In such a configuration, the two parts are generally stored separately in one pressurized container. Thus, the propellant gas selected for each container can be adapted to the parts of the composition being mixed together.

  Propellant gases that can be used are, among others, carbon dioxide, nitrogen, nitric oxide, dimethyl ether, volatile hydrocarbons (such as butane, isobutane, propane and pentane) and their You may choose from a mixture.

  In fact, for this variant, aerosol packaging can use a single container with two pouches inside. What the dispensing head sprays in the form of a foam is a composition according to the invention, which means a mixture of a developer composition and an alkali-containing composition.

  According to another embodiment, the composition may be in a “pump bottle” type foam dispenser. These dispensers include a dispensing head for delivering the composition, a pump, and a plunger tube that transports the composition from the container to the head for dispensing the product. The foam is formed by passing the composition through a material containing porous material (such as a sintered material), a plastic or metal filter grid or similar structure.

  Such dispensers are known to those skilled in the art and are patented: US Pat. No. 3,709,437 (Wright), US Pat. No. 3,937,364 (Wright), US Pat. No. 4,022,351 (Wright), US Pat. No. 4,1147,306. (Bennett), US Pat. No. 4,184,615 (Wright), US Pat. No. 4,598,862 (Rice), US Pat. No. 4,615,467 (Grogan et al.) And US Pat. No. 5,364,031 (Tamiguchi et al.). .

  According to this variant, the developer composition is packaged in a first container with a cap, and the alkali-containing composition is separate from the first container and sealed by a closure unit. Packaged in a second container. The closure unit may be in a pump dispense mode. Next, the composition of the present invention is formed before use by mixing the developer composition and the alkali-containing composition. For this purpose, and to limit the number of containers provided, one of the first or second containers has sufficient internal capacity to receive all of both compositions therein. Have. The container can then be closed and the composition mixture can be homogenized by shaking the container. Advantageously, the container is in direct contact with the dispensing head. The dispensing head includes a mechanical pump held in a snap-in or screw-in assembly ring on the neck of the container containing the mixture. The pump includes a pump body connected to a plunger tube for dispensing all of the mixture. The pump also includes a push button for actuating the pump body so that for each actuation, a dose of the composition is aspirated from within the plunger tube and discharged in foam form at the dispensing head opening. The

  Preferably, the container is made of a thermoplastic material and is produced by an extrusion blow molding or injection blow molding process. In particular, the container for packaging the composition with the colored substance (s) may be made from a material containing a non-zero proportion of EVOH. For example, the pump is a standard “F2-L9” model sold by REXAM.

  According to this preferred embodiment, the object of the invention is a non-aerosol device comprising the composition of the invention.

  The present invention also relates to a method for producing a cosmetic for keratin fibers such as hair, the method comprising the step of forming a foam by mixing or shaking the cosmetic composition of the present invention; Applying to the fiber. Mixing or shaking can be performed by any means such as a spoon and a whisk to aerate the cosmetic composition.

  In another embodiment, mixing or shaking is performed by using a device for dispensing foam, aerosol or non-aerosol, as described above.

In one embodiment of a method for producing a cosmetic, the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used for the treatment (eg, coloring or decoloring) of keratin fibers such as hair, and the treatment is, for example, wet. Or a cosmetic in the form of a foam prepared by mixing or shaking (i) the alkali-containing composition and (ii) the developer composition of the present invention with dry keratin fiber immediately before application to keratin fiber. Applying the composition;
Maintaining the keratin fibers for about 0.5-60 minutes, more preferably 1-30 minutes, more preferably 2-20 minutes;
Rinsing the fibers; and optionally washing them with a shampoo, rinsing them again and then drying them.

  Application of the cosmetic composition may be achieved using a warming device capable of heating at room temperature or in a temperature range of 40-220 ° C, preferably 40-80 ° C.

  It should be noted that the cosmetic composition of the present invention is in the form of a foam. The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be provided to the user in a foam-like structure when applied to keratin fibers and in a cream-like structure when spread on keratin fibers. Therefore, the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be easily handled without the need to reduce the risk of dripping, and can provide a good feeling of use.

  The invention will be described in detail by way of examples, which, however, should not be construed as limiting the invention.

Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-5
1. (I) Preparation of alkali-containing composition

  PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, cocobetaine, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium metabisulfite and EDTA were dissolved in water and mineral oil was added at 40 ° C. The mixture was stirred at 40 ° C. and more guar gum and 2-hydroxypropyl ether were added. After mixing, the mixture was cooled to room temperature. Ascorbic acid dissolved in water (and for Example 6 and the dye) and MEA were added to the mixture with stirring (the alkali-containing composition was mixed with the developer composition (ii) in a 1: 1 ratio). .

2. (Ii) Preparation of developer composition

Examples 1-6
Glycerin, caprylyl / caprylglucoside, etidronate tetrasodium, pyrosodium pyrophosphate, sodium salicylate, hydrogen peroxide and POLYQUATERNIUM-22 were dissolved in water at room temperature. The pH of the mixture was adjusted to 2.2 with phosphoric acid. In order to control the rate at which the fat component (mineral oil) is added to the aqueous phase and then the two phases are recovered after mixing the two phases, the following surfactants pre-dissolved in mineral oil at 70 ° C. To the mixture at room temperature.

Reference example 1
Glycerin, caprylyl / caprylglucoside, etidronate tetrasodium, pyrosodium pyrophosphate, sodium salicylate, hydrogen peroxide and POLYQUATERNIUM-22 were dissolved in water at room temperature. The pH of the mixture was adjusted to 2.2 with phosphoric acid.

Reference Examples 2-5
BEHENETH-10 or OLETH-10 was dissolved in mineral oil at 80 ° C. Glycerin, caprylyl / caprylglucoside, etidronate tetrasodium, pyrosodium pyrophosphate, and sodium salicylate were pre-dissolved in water at 80 ° C. and added to the fatty phase. After mixing at 80 ° C., the mixture was cooled to below 40 ° C., and then hydrogen peroxide and POLYQUATERNIUM-22 were added. The pH of the mixture was adjusted to 2.2 with phosphoric acid.

  Various compositions of the mixtures of Examples 1 to 6 and Reference Examples 1 to 5 are mixed with the components of both (i) the alkali-containing composition and (ii) the developer composition shown in Tables 1 and 2. It was prepared by.

3. Evaluation The foaming characteristics of the compositions of Examples 1 to 6 and Reference Examples 1 to 5 were measured and evaluated as follows. All numerical values are based on the “% (weight)” of the active ingredient relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Examination of foaming effect 30 g of colored cream and 30 g of developer were placed in a 350 ml shaker and the mixture was shaken 30 times. The foaming effect was visually scored according to the following criteria.

  The lightening effects of the compositions of Examples 1 to 5 and Reference Examples 1 to 4 were measured and evaluated as follows.

Examination of lightning effect Color base and developer were mixed in a shaker and shaken until a foam was formed. The foam was immediately applied to natural Japanese hair samples. The applied hair sample was left on a hot plate at 27 ° C. for 20 minutes. Next, this was rinsed, washed with a hair washing solution and dried. The hair color was examined with KONICAMINOLTA SPECTROPHOTOMETER CM-3600d. The lightning effect was scored according to the following criteria.

4). Results of foaming performance and lightning performance As shown in Tables 3 and 4 below, the cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 6 exhibited good foaming performance and high lightening performance. In contrast, the cosmetic composition of Reference Example 1 (the developer composition is in the form of a solution that does not contain any fat component) showed a lightening performance lower than that of Examples 1-5. .

  Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions of Reference Examples 2 to 5 were prepared by using an emulsion developer. The cosmetic compositions of Reference Examples 2 to 4 showed high lightening performance, but Reference Examples 2 to 5 did not form a foam. It was found that Reference Examples 2-5 had lower self-handling performance (eg, almost no dripping) than Examples 1-6, and required more time to apply to the entire hair. It was.

5. Comparison of speed of recovery to two phases and foam quality The speed of recovery of the developer compositions of Examples 1-5 and the foam quality of the mixtures with the alkali-containing compositions of Examples 1-5 were measured.

Examination of Recovery Rate The oil phase and the aqueous phase of each developer composition were mixed by shaking the sample bottle. The sample was left on the table. The time until the surface between the oil phase and the water phase could be visually observed was measured.

Examination of foam quality 30 g of the alkali-containing composition and 30 g of developer were placed in a 350 ml shaker and the mixture was shaken 30 times. Foam quality was visually scored according to the following criteria:

a) Standard of foam capacity

b) Standard of foam thickness

Among the examples in Table 5, Examples 2 and 3 are preferred because the two-phase developer maintained the emulsion state for longer than 1 minute (both bottles while maintaining an appropriate ratio of water phase to oil phase). Is considered to be enough time to pour into a shaker). In contrast, Example 1 showed good foaming performance, but the emulsion state after shaking to form the emulsion was not maintained long enough to be poured (less than 30 seconds). Furthermore, Examples 2 and 3 showed better foaming performance than Example 4.

Claims (21)

A cosmetic composition for keratin fibers in the form of a foam, prepared by mixing (i) an alkali-containing composition and (ii) a developer composition at the time of use,
The cosmetic composition is
(A) at least one fatty material;
(B) at least one surfactant;
(C) at least one non-volatile alkaline component, and (d) at least one oxidizing component,
Wherein (i) the alkali-containing composition and (ii) the developer composition both comprise (a) a fatty material, and (ii) the developer composition comprises a surfactant. Apart from agent (b), a cosmetic composition comprising an emulsifier having an HLB of less than 4% by weight, preferably at least 7, relative to the weight of the developer. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty material is a liquid, preferably mineral oil, at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 ⁵ Pa). The fatty material is a linear or branched C ₆ -C ₁₆ lower alkane, a linear or branched hydrocarbon of more than 16 carbon atoms of mineral, animal or synthetic origin, eg liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene A cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, selected from hydrogenated polyisobutylene, squalane, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty acid esters, more preferably liquid paraffin and liquid petrolatum.   More preferably, the fatty material is in an amount ranging from 25% to 90% (weight), preferably from 30% to 80% (weight), relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition or developer composition. Is present in an amount ranging from 35% to 70% (by weight).   (A) The amount of the fatty material is 20% (weight) or more, preferably 30% (weight) or more, more preferably 40% (weight) or more with respect to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4. (Ii) The developer composition is a two-phase consisting of an aqueous phase and a lipid phase before forming the foam, and the developer composition is
(1) preferably 10 to 50% by weight of at least one fatty material, based on the total weight of the developer composition;
(2) water and oxidizing components,
(3) At least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of a nonionic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant, preferably a nonionic surfactant Preferably, the surfactant is selected from nonionic surfactants, in particular (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols, glycerolated fatty alcohols, alkyl polyglycosides (APG) and mixtures thereof, and (4) A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising, separately from surfactant (b), an emulsifier having an HLB of less than 4% by weight, preferably at least 7, with respect to the developer weight. object. The surfactant has the following formula:
R ¹ O— (R ² O) _t (G) _v
[Where:
R ¹ is 1 to 30, preferably 6 to 28, more preferably a linear or branched alkyl radical containing 8 to 26 carbon atoms, or 7 to 30, preferably 7 to 28, more. Preferably represents an aralkyl radical containing 7 to 26 carbon atoms;
R ² represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
G represents a reducing sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms;
t represents 0 to 10; preferably 0 to 4, particularly an integer of 0 to 4; and v represents an integer of 1 to 15];
Preferably, the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside and oleyl glucoside. The cosmetic composition according to Item. The surfactant is a (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohol;
Following _{formula: RO- [CH 2 -CH (CH} 2 OH) -O] m -H, or _{RO- [CH (CH 2 OH)} -CH 2 O] m -H
[Wherein R represents a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ , preferably a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m is in the range of 1-30, preferably 1-10. Of glycerolated fatty alcohols;
In particular, lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerol, lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 10 mol glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol glycerol, 2 mol Cetearyl alcohol containing 6 glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol glycerol, behenyl alcohol containing 10 mol glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 mol glycerol, more preferably Lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 10 mol glycerol, behenyl alcohol containing 10 mol glycerol Rabbi mixtures thereof, the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7.   Furthermore, the cosmetic composition as described in any one of Claims 1-8 containing polyol, such as glycerol.   Monoamines and their derivatives (such as alkanolamines); diamines and their derivatives (such as alkanolamines); polyamines and their derivatives; amino acids, preferably basic amino acids and their derivatives; oligomers of amino acids, preferably basic Oligomers of amino acids and their derivatives; amino acids, preferably polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; urea and their derivatives; and guanidine and their derivatives, preferably the alkaline agent is mono The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising (c) a non-volatile alkaline component selected from alkanolamines such as ethanolamine.   (D) The oxidizing component is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromate, ferrocyanide salt, and persulfate. Cosmetic composition.   12. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the emulsifier having an HLB of at least 7 is selected from ethoxylated fatty alcohols containing 2 to 20 ethylene oxide. The alkali-containing composition is at least
(A) The fatty material according to any one of claims 1 to 5,
(B) the surfactant according to claim 1, 7 or 8,
(C) the non-volatile alkaline component according to claim 10, and (d) an oxidizing component,
The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising (e) at least one coloring substance selected from the group consisting of a direct dye and an oxidation dye, preferably an oxidation dye. (A) a step of mixing or shaking the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to form a foam; and (b) a step of applying (applying) the foam to keratin fibers. A cosmetic method for keratin fibers, especially for human keratin fibers such as hair. After step (b), (c) a step of holding the keratin fiber for 0.5 to 60 minutes, preferably 1 to 30 minutes, more preferably 2 to 20 minutes, and (d) the keratin fiber The cosmetic method for keratin fibers according to claim 15, comprising the step of rinsing and / or drying.   17. A cosmetic method according to claim 15 or 16, wherein a non-aerosol device or an aerosol device is used to make the foam. A multi-compartment system or kit comprising at least two separate compartments,
The first compartment comprises (a) at least one fatty material according to any one of claims 1 to 5 (c) a composition comprising at least one non-volatile alkaline component according to claim 1 or 10. And the second compartment comprises (a) at least one fatty material according to any one of claims 1-5, and (d) at least one oxidizing component according to claim 1 or 11. Including a composition,
The at least one coloring substance according to claim 1, 13 or 14 is present in the first compartment or in the third compartment, and (b) according to claim 1, 6-8. A multi-compartment system or kit wherein at least one surfactant is present in either or both of the first and second compartments, or in other compartments.   14. A multi-compartment system or kit according to claim 13 comprising a non-aerosol device or an aerosol device to make a foam. A developer composition for treating keratin fibers present in a two-phase state consisting of an aqueous phase and a lipid phase,
The aqueous phase comprises at least one oxidizing agent according to any one of claims 1 to 11 and at least one foamable surfactant,
The lipid phase comprises 10-50% by weight of at least one fatty material according to any one of claims 1-3, based on the total weight of the composition;
(Ii) The developer composition comprises, apart from the surfactant (b), a developer comprising an emulsifier having an HLB of less than 4% (by weight), preferably at least 7, relative to the weight of the developer Agent composition.   21. The makeup of claim 20, wherein the foaming surfactant is selected from the group consisting of caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. Composition.