JP2012211102A - Aqueous eye makeup cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a solid cosmetic in aqueous eye makeup cosmetic that is excellent in dissolving properties in water, has good color development, is smooth and easy to draw and has uniform finishing and further has good cosmetic durability.SOLUTION: In the cosmetic obtained by adding a solvent to a cosmetic substrate containing a powder ingredient and an oily ingredient to slurry, filling a container with the same and then removing the solvent, the aqueous eye makeup cosmetic is made by combining following ingredients (A)-(D) into the cosmetic substrate: ingredient (A): 0,1-5 mass% of nonionic surfactants with an HLB of 10-15 in a total of one or two or more of them, ingredient (B): 2-15 mass% of silicic anhydride and/or crystalline cellulose of which particle size is 1-100 μm, ingredient (C): powder which is subjected to the hydrophobic treatment, and ingredient (D): a nonvolatile ingredient.

Description

  The present invention relates to a water-soluble eye makeup cosmetic that is used while dissolving the surface of the cosmetic with water, and more specifically, because of its excellent water solubility, the makeup film is uniform and easy to draw, and the makeup of the eye makeup is good. Regarding fees.

  Conventionally, water-only solid cosmetics (for example, Patent Documents 1 to 3) for the purpose of refreshing feeling and makeup sustainability when using cosmetics are known. The use of water refers to a method of use in which an applicator containing water is used when the cosmetic is used, or water drops are dropped on the surface of the cosmetic and mixed with the applicator. However, these water-only solid cosmetics tend to lack adhesion to the skin and makeup sustainability when emphasizing cosmetic removal (familiarity with water) etc., conversely, Considering the sustainability, it is liable to become lumpy when using water and has the disadvantage that it does not adhere uniformly. There are also water-drying solid cosmetics (for example, Patent Documents 4 to 6), but the surface of the cosmetic is highly hydrophobic and does not wet with water, so there is a tendency to lack dust and adhesion and color development. It was in.

  On the other hand, examples of eye makeup cosmetics include eye shadow, eyeliner, eyebrow, and the like, which are applied to a narrow space such as the eyelid with a relatively weak force. It is also required to draw a clear line. Here, in order to apply solid cosmetics dedicated to water use, it is necessary that water and cosmetics be included in the applicator as a more uniform mixture, so that water and cosmetics are quickly familiar and free of lumps and aggregates. Cosmetics with better water solubility have been demanded.

Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-316537 JP 2001-114649 A JP 2001-220319 A JP 59-36881 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 07-138130 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-182354

  Therefore, the present invention provides a solid cosmetic which is excellent in water solubility, smooth and easy to draw, has a uniform finish, and has good makeup sustainability as a water-soluble eye makeup cosmetic.

  In view of such circumstances, the present inventor has intensively studied to make use of the advantages of water-soluble eye makeup cosmetics to compensate for the defects, and as a result, a surfactant with a specific HLB, silicic anhydride and / or crystalline cellulose having a specific particle size, By obtaining a solid cosmetic comprising a hydrophobized powder and an oily component, it was found that a solid cosmetic excellent in portability can be used by dissolving in water, and the present invention was completed. .

That is, the present invention
(1) In a cosmetic obtained by adding a solvent to a cosmetic base material containing a powder component and an oily component to form a slurry, filling this into a container, and then removing the solvent, the cosmetic In the substrate, the following components (A) to (D);
(A) Nonionic surfactant whose HLB which combined 1 type, or 2 or more types is 10-15 0.1-5 mass%
(B) Silicic anhydride and / or crystalline cellulose having a particle size of 1 to 100 μm 2 to 15% by mass
(C) Hydrophobized powder (D) A water-soluble eye makeup cosmetic comprising a non-volatile oil component,
(2) The water-soluble eye makeup cosmetic according to (1), further comprising a film-forming silicone resin,
(3) The water-based eye makeup cosmetic according to (1) or (2), wherein the eye makeup cosmetic is an eyeliner or eyebrow.

  The water-soluble eye makeup cosmetic of the present invention is a compact type (solid cosmetic) excellent in portability, excellent in water solubility, easy to draw, with a uniform finish, good color development, and excellent makeup sustainability. It is a thing.

Below, the structure of this invention is explained in full detail.
The nonionic surfactant of component (A) used in the present invention suppresses the hydrophobicity of the cosmetic surface and improves water solubility. Any one can be used as long as it is usually used in cosmetics, but the total HLB is 10-15, more preferably 11-14, combined with one or more. Selected. If the HLB is less than 10, the water-solubility deteriorates, and if it exceeds 15, the makeup sustainability deteriorates and the usability and the makeup effect are impaired.
The compounding amount of the component (A) in the present invention is 0.1 to 5% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”), preferably 1 to 3%. If the blending amount is less than 0.1%, the water solubility is poor, and if it is 5% or more, the makeup persistence is poor.

  Examples of the nonionic surfactant include sorbitan fatty acid ester, glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, propylene glycol fatty acid ester, polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxypropylene alkyl ether. , Polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether, polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene propylene glycol fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene castor oil, poly Oxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil fatty acid ester, poly Xylethylene phytostanol ether, polyoxyethylene phytosterol ether, polyoxyethylene cholesterol ether, polyoxyethylene cholesteryl ether, polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane, polyoxyalkylene / alkyl co-modified organopolysiloxane, alkanolamide, sugar ether, Examples thereof include sugar amides and are not particularly limited.

The component (B) silicic acid anhydride and / or crystalline cellulose used in the present invention facilitates the permeation of water droplets on the cosmetic surface and enhances the water solubility, which is the component (B) water. It derives from its good soaking property and its lack of cohesion after drying using water. Any particles having a particle diameter of 1 to 100 μm, preferably 3 to 50 μm, can be used regardless of the shape. Particularly preferably, the particle shape is spherical or porous. If the particle shape is less than 1 μm, the solid cosmetic is difficult to loosen, and if it exceeds 100 μm, it tends to be lumpy when using water.
The compounding quantity of the component (B) in this invention is 2 to 15%, Preferably it is 3 to 10%. If the blending amount is less than 2%, the water solubility is inferior, for example, lumps are generated.

The component (C) hydrophobized powder used in the present invention may be any powder as long as it is coated with a known surface treatment agent and exhibits hydrophobicity. Specific examples of the surface treatment agent include fluorine compounds such as perfluoroalkyl phosphate esters and perfluoroalkylalkoxysilanes, silicone compounds such as methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, one-end or both-end trialkoxy group-modified organopolysiloxane, and the like. , Metal soaps such as aluminum stearate and zinc stearate, amino acid compounds such as lauroyl lysine, waxes, oil agents, polymer compounds, resins and the like, and one or more of these can be used.
The coating amount varies depending on the chemical composition of the powder to be surface treated, its particle diameter, presence or absence of porous property, oil absorption, water absorption, specific surface area, but 0.5 to 10% with respect to the original powder. Is preferable, and 1 to 5% is particularly preferable. If it is this range, sufficient covering effect, ie, hydrophobicity will be expressed, and it will be excellent in adhesion to skin and makeup sustainability when blended in cosmetics.

As the powder to be surface-coated, other than the component (B), as long as it is usually used in cosmetics, shapes such as spheres, plates, needles, fumes, fine particles, pigment grades, etc. There are no particular restrictions on the particle size of the particles, the particle structure such as porous or nonporous, and inorganic powders, glitter powders, organic powders, pigment powders, composite powders, etc. are used. it can.
Specifically, the following are mentioned, for example, These can be used 1 type, or 2 or more types.
Inorganic powders: Titanium oxide, black titanium oxide, conger, ultramarine, bengara, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide , Carbon black, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, mica, synthetic mica, sericite, talc, kaolin, silicon carbide, barium sulfate, bentonite, smectite, boron nitride and the like.
Bright powders: bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide coated mica, iron oxide coated mica, iron oxide coated mica titanium, organic pigment coated mica titanium, aluminum powder, and the like.
Organic powders: nylon powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, acrylonitrile-methacrylic acid copolymer powder, vinylidene chloride-methacrylic acid copolymer powder, polyethylene powder, polystyrene powder, organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, polymethylsilsesquioxane Powder, polyurethane powder, wool powder, silk powder, N-acyl lysine powder, etc.
Dye powders: organic tar pigments, lake pigments of organic dyes, etc.
Composite powders: fine particle titanium oxide coated mica titanium, fine particle zinc oxide coated mica titanium, barium sulfate coated mica titanium, titanium oxide containing silica, zinc oxide containing silica and the like.
Among these, particularly preferred are inorganic powders such as iron oxide, and composite powders composed of inorganic powders.
The amount of component (C) in the present invention is preferably 30 to 65%. If it is this range, the thing excellent in usability, such as water solubility, smoothness, and the lightness of elongation, and makeup sustainability will be obtained.

The oil component of the component (D) used in the present invention is usually a non-volatile oil component used in cosmetics, such as animal oil, vegetable oil, synthetic oil, solid oil, semi-solid oil, liquid oil. Such as hydrocarbons, fats and oils, ester oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, lanolin derivatives, oily gelling agents, oils, etc. Soluble resin etc. are mentioned. Specifically, for example, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, squalane, petrolatum, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, ethylene / propylene copolymer, montan wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, Oils and fats such as mole, olive oil, castor oil, mink oil, macadamian nut oil, waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, gallow, cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, myristic acid Octyldodecyl, glyceryl trioctanoate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, cholesterol fatty acid ester, di (N-lauroyl-L-glutamate) Lil, behenyl, octyldodecyl), ester oils such as jojoba oil, fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, Higher alcohols such as isostearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, high degree of polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane, silicones such as fluorine-modified polysiloxane, perfluorodecane, perfluorooctane, perfluoropoly Fluorine oils such as siloxane, Lanolin, Lanolin acetate, Lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, Lanolin derivatives such as Lanolin alcohol, Dextrin fatty acid ester, Sucrose fatty acid ester 12-hydroxystearic acid, starch fatty acid esters, aluminum isostearate, oily gelling agents such as calcium stearate, and the like. One or more of these can be used.
The blending amount of component (D) in the present invention is preferably 3 to 35%. Within this range, it is possible to obtain a product excellent in usability such as ease of drawing and good color development, finish such as uniformity of a coating film, and makeup sustainability. If the amount of component (D) is too large, the lipophilicity of the surface becomes too high and the water solubility is poor, which is not preferable.

Moreover, it is preferable that the water-soluble eye makeup cosmetic of the present invention further contains a film-forming silicone resin that is an oil-soluble film forming agent. Examples of the film-forming silicone resin include trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, polymethylsilsesquioxane, acrylic-silicone graft copolymer, long-chain alkyl-modified acrylic-silicone graft copolymer, and polyvinylpyrrolidone-modified methylpolysiloxane. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
The blending amount of the film-forming silicone resin in the present invention is preferably 0.5 to 5%.

The water-soluble eye makeup cosmetic of the present invention is obtained by adding a solvent to a cosmetic base material containing a powder component and an oily component to form a slurry, filling the container, and then removing the solvent. Molded. The cosmetic base material here is a mixture of components (A) to (D), and the mixing method is not particularly limited, and may be a generally known mixing method. Further, for example, the components (A) and (D) may be heated and dissolved, and the mixture of the components (B) and (C) may be added in advance to a place where the solvent is added and mixed to form a slurry.
The molding method is not particularly limited, but in consideration of the amount of solvent remaining in the cosmetics, the ease of solvent recovery, etc., pressurizing after filling and removing the solvent through the absorber or the discharge hole It is preferable to adopt the method.

  The solvent used in the present invention preferably has a boiling point at room temperature of 200 ° C. or lower. Specific examples include water or low-boiling alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, n-butanol, low-boiling hydrocarbons, low-boiling chain or cyclic silicones, low-boiling fluorine compounds, and the like. Used as a mixture of two or more. Moreover, the emulsion which mix | blended these volatile solvents can also be used, especially when using an oil-in-water emulsion, it is the effect of this invention that component (D) is emulsified in an inner oil phase. It is preferable at the point which exhibits. The amount used is not particularly specified, but is preferably in the range of 10 to 150% with respect to the cosmetic base material in order to obtain an appropriate fluid slurry. If the amount of the solvent is too large, the slurry viscosity becomes low and it becomes difficult to sufficiently recover the solvent component, which is not preferable because the drying property is remarkably lowered.

  In the preparation of the water-soluble eye makeup cosmetic of the present invention, a combined molding agent can be blended for the purpose of imparting shape retention and strength of the cosmetic after molding. Any binder molding agent that can be blended can be used as long as the desired effect can be obtained. Specifically, clay minerals such as organically modified smectite and organically modified benton, gypsum, water-soluble A functional polymer. These bond molding agents can be used singly or in combination as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.

  In addition to the above-described components, the water-soluble eye makeup cosmetic of the present invention can be appropriately blended with components that are usually blended in cosmetics as needed within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. Powder components other than components (B) and (C), polyhydric alcohols, water-soluble polymers, paraoxybenzoic acid derivatives, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, ultraviolet absorbers, moisturizers, antibacterial agents, perfumes, salts, oxidation Examples thereof include an inhibitor, a pH adjuster, and a chelating agent.

  Examples of the water-soluble eye makeup cosmetics of the present invention include eye shadows, eye liners, and eyebrow, with eye liners and eyebrows being particularly preferred. The method of use is not particularly limited, but it is usually used by adding water to a commercially available eye shadow chip or other applicator, or by applying water drops to the solid cosmetic of the present invention. By melting and using a brush or the like, a clear fine line can be drawn.

Next, an example will be further described. Note that these do not limit the present invention in any way.
Examples 1 to 10 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8: Water-soluble eyeliner A water-soluble eyeliner having the composition shown in Table 1 was prepared. About water-solubility, ease of drawing, good color development, finished film uniformity, and makeup durability. Sensory evaluation was performed and judged. The results are also shown in Table 1.

* 1 Silicia 550 (Fuji Silysia Chemical Co., Ltd.): particle size 3.9 μm
* 2 Theolas PH-101 (Asahi Kasei Chemicals Corporation): particle size 50 μm
* 3 Zinc laurate 6% treatment * 4 SR1000 (Momentive Performance Materials Japan): 60% light liquid isoparaffin solution

(Production method)
Ingredients 1-9 were mixed with a Henschel mixer and added to ingredients 10-18 and 19 previously heated and mixed. After that, they were press-molded into a metal pan and dried in an air blow dryer at 80 ° C for one day. Thus, a solid water-soluble eyeliner was obtained.

〔Evaluation methods〕
For evaluation items 1 to 6, a 20 person evaluation panel performs a usage test, and each panel member evaluates it according to the following evaluation criteria in 7 stages and gives a score. The average value is calculated from the total score of all panel members for each sample. The determination was made according to the following criteria. As for “water-solubility”, when water drops are applied to the surface of the cosmetic and the cosmetic brush is used to mix water and cosmetics, the familiarity of water and cosmetics, the penetration rate of water drops, Judging comprehensively from the presence or absence.
(Evaluation item)
1. 1. Water solubility Easy to draw 2. 3. Good color development 4. Uniformity of coating film Makeup sustainability (evaluation criteria)
(Score): (Evaluation)
6: Very good 5: Good 4: Somewhat good 3: Normal 2: Somewhat bad 1: Bad 0: Very bad (Criteria)
◎: 5.0 to 6.0 points ○: 3.5 points to less than 5.0 points △: 1.0 points to less than 3.5 points ×: Less than 1.0 points

  As is clear from the results in Table 1, the eye liners of Examples 1 to 10 of the present invention were superior in water solubility, usability and makeup sustainability compared to Comparative Examples 1 to 8.

Example 11: Water-soluble eyebrow (component) (%)
1. Silicic anhydride * 5 2
2. Crystalline cellulose * 6 3
3. Silicone-treated black iron oxide * 7 15
4). Silicone-treated Bengala * 7 5
5. Silicone-treated yellow iron oxide * 7 5
6). Silicone-treated titanium oxide * 7 5
7). Metal soap treated talc * 3 25
8). Mica 14.8
9. PEG-40 1 stearate
10. Polysorbate 85 2.5
11. Sorbitan sesquiisostearate 0.5
12 Diglyceryl triisostearate 4
13. Mineral oil 4
14 Vaseline 3
15. Candelilla Row 1
16. Dimethicone (10mm ² / s) 3
17. Polymethylsulfesquioxane * 8 6
18. Preservative appropriate amount 19. Perfume appropriate amount 20. Solvent: Light liquid isoparaffin 15 (Not prescribed)
* 5 Sunsphere H-121 (manufactured by AGC S-Itech): particle size 12 μm
* 6 Theolas PH-F20JP (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Chemicals): particle size 20 μm
* 7 Dimethicone 2% treated product (manufactured by Miyoshi Kasei)
* 8 SILFORM FLEXIBLE RESIN (Momentive Performance Materials Japan): 50% light liquid isoparaffin solution

(Production method)
Ingredients 1-8 are mixed with a Henschel mixer and added to ingredients 9-19 and 20 previously heated and dissolved and mixed uniformly. Drying gave a solid powder eyebrow.
The eyebrow of the present invention has good water solubility, good usability and feel, and excellent makeup sustainability.

Claims (3)

In a cosmetic obtained by adding a solvent to a cosmetic base material containing a powder component and an oily component to form a slurry, filling this into a container, and then removing the solvent, the cosmetic base material contains And the following components (A) to (D);
(A) Nonionic surfactant whose HLB which combined 1 type, or 2 or more types is 10-15 0.1-5 mass%
(B) Silicic anhydride and / or crystalline cellulose having a particle size of 1 to 100 μm 2 to 15% by mass
(C) Hydrophobized powder (D) A water-soluble eye makeup cosmetic comprising a non-volatile oil component.   The water-based eye makeup cosmetic according to claim 1, further comprising a film-forming silicone resin.   The water-based eye makeup cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the eye makeup cosmetic is an eyeliner or eyebrow.