JP2012031079A - Makeup method, and foundation and makeup base used for the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a makeup method capable of providing an excellent transparent feeling while hiding a defect on skin.SOLUTION: In this makeup method, (A) a makeup base is applied to skin, and (B) foundation is applied to the skin. In the makeup method, saturation C of (A) and saturation C of B are ≥3.5 and 4.9-5.9, respectively; and pigment-class titanium dioxide/black iron oxide is ≥10,000 by a mass ratio in a composition when (A) and (B) are mixed with each other at 1:1.

Description

  The present invention relates to a makeup method, and more particularly to a makeup method capable of realizing a skin having excellent transparency and unevenness concealment.

In general, in the case of makeup, the skin is treated with a lotion, milky lotion, etc., then a foundation for adjusting the color of the skin is applied, and point makeup such as blusher is performed.
At this time, the foundation is required to have a high hiding power in order to make various wrinkles on the skin, such as spots, freckles, or irregularities, inconspicuous.
For this reason, pigment grade titanium dioxide and zinc oxide having a high refractive index and high hiding power may be blended in large quantities.

On the other hand, when the hiding power depends on high refractive index powder of titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, light scattering occurs in the visible light region, and the appearance of the skin causes so-called “whitening”. Therefore, normally, black iron oxide or the like is blended together with the titanium dioxide or the like to suppress whitening.
However, according to such a foundation, since the hiding power is high, the wrinkles on the skin are concealed, the skin-specific transparency is lost, an unnatural matte feeling is generated, and the unevenness of the skin is rather noticeable. Sometimes it stands up.

In recent years, there has been known a foundation that realizes not only unevenness concealment but also transparency by adjusting saturation using optical characteristics (Patent Document 1).
However, although the foundation is excellent in color tone when applied to the skin, there is a concern that the user may feel uncomfortable when using it because of its high appearance color saturation.

JP 2008-285429 A

  The present invention has been made in view of the prior art, and the problem to be solved is a makeup that can hide wrinkles on the skin and achieve excellent transparency while the makeup cosmetic has a natural appearance color. It is to provide a method.

  As a result of the inventors' diligent research to solve the above-mentioned problem, in the makeup method, a makeup base having a specific saturation is combined with a foundation having a specific saturation, and further, pigment grade titanium dioxide / black oxide By adjusting iron, it discovered that the skin excellent in transparency and uneven | corrugated concealment degree was realizable, and came to complete this invention.

That is, in the makeup method according to the present invention, (A) a makeup base is applied to the skin, and (B) a foundation is applied to the skin.
The saturation C of (A) is 3.5 or more, and the saturation C of (B) is 4.9 to 5.9,
In the composition when (A) and (B) are mixed at a ratio of 1: 1, the pigment grade titanium dioxide / black iron oxide is 10,000 or more in mass ratio.
In the makeup method, the pigment grade titanium dioxide is preferably 5 to 20% by mass in (B).
In the makeup method, it is preferable that (A) and / or (B) contain red iron oxide and / or yellow iron oxide.
In the makeup method, it is preferable that (A) and / or (B) contain extender pigment having a refractive index of 1.7 or less and / or titanium dioxide having an average particle size of less than 0.1 μm.

The makeup base according to the present invention has a saturation C of 3.5 or more and is used in the makeup method.
The foundation according to the present invention has a chroma C of 4.9 to 5.9 and a pigment grade titanium dioxide / black iron oxide having a mass ratio of 10,000 or more, and is used in the makeup method.
The makeup cosmetic kit according to the present invention comprises (A) a makeup base having a saturation C of 3.5 or more,
(B) a foundation having a saturation C of 4.9 to 5.9,
In the composition when (A) and (B) are mixed at a ratio of 1: 1, the pigment grade titanium dioxide / black iron oxide is 10,000 or more in mass ratio.

  According to the makeup method according to the present invention, the combination of a specific makeup base, the amount of black iron oxide used is low and the foundation color is high, but the applied color when applied to the skin is the skin color. It is possible to provide a make-up method using a make-up cosmetic that can make the unevenness inconspicuous and make the appearance color natural.

It is explanatory drawing of the effect | action which makes the unevenness | corrugation by skin inconspicuous. It is a relationship diagram of the color of the bare skin created based on the coating color calculated by Kubelka-Munk theory, the foundation appearance color, and the coating color. It is a correlation diagram of the ratio of a white pigment (pigment grade titanium dioxide) and a black pigment (black iron oxide), and the light propagation distance by skin. It is a relationship diagram of the color of the bare skin created based on the coating color calculated by Kubelka-Munk theory, foundation | substrate appearance color, foundation | substrate coating color, foundation appearance color, and foundation coating color. It is a correlation diagram of incident light wavelength and light propagation distance.

In the makeup method according to the present invention, (A) a makeup base is applied to the skin, and (B) a foundation is applied to the skin.
The saturation C of (A) is 3.5 or more, and the saturation C of (B) is 4.9 to 5.9,
In the composition when (A) and (B) are mixed at a ratio of 1: 1, the pigment grade titanium dioxide / black iron oxide is 10,000 or more in mass ratio. Hereinafter, each makeup cosmetic used in the present method will be described in detail.

(A) Makeup base A makeup base is a makeup cosmetic applied on the skin before applying the foundation.
The saturation C of the makeup base according to the present invention is 3.5 or more. When the saturation C is less than 3.5, it is necessary to increase the saturation C of the component (B) used in combination in order to obtain a sufficient unevenness concealment degree, resulting in the appearance color of the component (B). It may give a sense of incongruity.

(B) Foundation In the present invention, the foundation is a makeup cosmetic applied on the skin after applying a makeup base on the skin.
The saturation C of the foundation according to the present invention is 4.9 to 5.9. When the saturation C is less than 4.9, a sufficient unevenness concealment degree tends not to be obtained. If the saturation C exceeds 5.9, the appearance color of the product (foundation) may be uncomfortable.

  In addition, in the composition when the component (A) and the component (B) are mixed at a ratio of 1: 1, the blending amount of the pigment grade titanium dioxide with respect to the blending amount of the black iron oxide, that is, the pigment grade titanium dioxide / black iron oxide is mass. The ratio must be 10,000 or more. When the mass ratio of pigment grade titanium dioxide / black iron oxide is less than 10,000, shadows due to unevenness on the skin may be noticeable.

  In the present invention, pigment grade titanium dioxide refers to titanium dioxide having an average particle diameter of 0.1 to 0.5 μm and giving a white appearance color by light scattering. The pigment grade titanium dioxide used in the present invention may be coated. Examples of the treatment method include hydrophobic treatment such as silicone treatment, but are not particularly limited.

  The pigment grade titanium dioxide is preferably 5 to 20% by mass in the component (B). When the blending amount of the pigment grade titanium dioxide in (B) is less than 5% by mass, the uneven concealing power may be insufficient and it may be difficult to adjust the skin tone. If the blending amount of pigment grade titanium dioxide in (B) exceeds 20% by mass, whitening may occur.

In the present invention, black iron oxide is magnetite and is iron oxide represented by the chemical formula Fe ₃ O ₄ . The black iron oxide used in the present invention may be coated. Examples of the treatment method include hydrophobic treatment such as silicone treatment, but are not particularly limited.
When black iron oxide is not blended in the makeup cosmetic used in the present invention, the appearance color may become too white.

In the makeup method of the present invention, it is preferable that component (A) and / or component (B) contain red iron oxide and / or yellow iron oxide.
In the present invention, red iron oxide is bengara or hematite, and the chemical formula is iron oxide represented by Fe ₂ O ₃ .
In the present invention, yellow iron oxide is goethite, and the chemical formula is iron oxide represented by FeOOH.

In the makeup method of the present invention, the component (A) and / or the component (B) preferably contains extender pigment having a refractive index of 1.7 or less and / or titanium dioxide having an average particle size of less than 0.1 μm. It is.
An extender pigment is a pigment that does not significantly affect the color tone of the composition and can function as a bulking agent. Specific examples include talc and mica, but fine particles having an average particle size of less than 0.1 μm. An ultraviolet shielding powder such as titanium dioxide may also be included.

The present inventors examined the hiding power required for makeup cosmetics (especially makeup bases and foundations) and the transparency of the skin.
That is, the conventional general makeup cosmetics form a film having a high hiding power on the skin, that is, a low visible light transmittance, thereby hiding wrinkles on the skin. This state is shown in FIG. 1A, and the reflected light is emitted from substantially the same position as the light irradiation site. For this reason, if the skin is flat as shown in FIG. 1A, the skin tone cannot be expected, but the color tone can be regulated by the color tone of the makeup cosmetic. However, when there is unevenness on the skin as shown in FIG. 1 (B), even if a uniform makeup cosmetic film can be formed on the uneven surface, light and darkness occurs depending on the light irradiation angle, and the shadow causes the skin. The irregularities on the top are rather noticeable.

  On the other hand, the skin makes a certain amount of light enter and produces a sense of transparency of the skin by the return light from the inside, but at the same time, the propagation of the return light in the skin causes a certain distance from the light irradiation position. Return light is also generated (FIG. 1C). For this reason, as shown in FIG. 1 (D), even when light is applied to uneven skin, shadows are hardly generated and the wrinkles of the skin can be made inconspicuous.

That is, when skin wrinkles to be concealed by makeup cosmetics are classified into color wrinkles (mole, aza, etc.) and uneven wrinkles, the uneven wrinkles form a very thick foundation film to form the unevenness itself. This is alleviated depending on whether the film is eliminated or the foundation film is made to transmit light.
Of course, if a makeup cosmetic film having a low visible light permeability is formed thickly on the skin, a so-called “thick makeup” state is obtained, which is not preferable.

On the other hand, if visible light is transmitted and a diffusion effect by the skin is expected, wrinkles on the skin color cannot be concealed.
In order to satisfy these conflicting demands, the present inventors examined the relationship between the brightness and saturation of makeup cosmetics (foundation) and the brightness and saturation when applied to the skin. Here, high brightness means that the amount of light absorbed by the makeup cosmetic is small, and is an indicator that the amount of light transmitted through the makeup cosmetic coating layer is large.

FIG. 2 shows the relationship between the appearance color of the bare skin and the foundation created based on the coating color calculated by the Kubelka-Munk theory, and the coating color after the foundation is applied to the bare skin.
As is clear from the figure, when the saturation of the foundation appearance color (●) and the skin color (☆) is adjusted to be almost the same, increasing the brightness increases the application amount at the standard application amount. The saturation of the color (◯) is much lower than the bare skin color. As a result, a so-called “white floating” state is obtained.
If the saturation of the coating color is made to match the saturation of the bare skin color while maintaining the brightness of the foundation appearance color high, the saturation of the foundation appearance color is extremely high compared to the bare skin color. And shall be.

That is, in order to increase the saturation of the coating color and eliminate white floating, a foundation having a very high appearance color is required. However, when a user sees a foundation having a very high-saturation appearance color as a product, there is a concern that the user may feel discomfort or resistance. Thus, when it is going to implement | achieve the application color of high saturation with a high brightness foundation, it will affect an external appearance color.
Therefore, based on the above knowledge, the present inventors have examined not only the foundation but also the makeup method using natural makeup cosmetics by toning the makeup base, and as a result, the above identification The combination of makeup base and foundation of the saturation of.

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Unless otherwise specified, the blending amount is expressed in mass% with respect to the system in which the component is blended.
Prior to the description of the examples, the evaluation method of the test used in the present invention will be described.

Evaluation (1): Appearance color Ten professional panels evaluated the appearance color of the sample.
○: Nine or more of the 10 panelists answered that the color was easy to adjust to the skin.
○ Δ: 7 or more of the 10 panelists and less than 9 panelists answered that the color was easy to adjust to the skin.
Δ: 5 or more and less than 7 out of 10 panelists answered that the color was easy to adjust to the skin.
X: Less than 5 out of 10 panelists answered that it was a color that was easy to adjust to the bare skin.

Evaluation (2): Application Color Ten professional panels applied the sample to a face of 5 × 5 cm so as to be 1.0 mg / cm ² and evaluated the application color.
○: Nine or more of the 10 panelists answered that they had no whitening and were familiar with the skin color.
○ Δ: 7 or more of the 10 panelists and less than 9 panelists answered that they had no whitening and were familiar with the skin color.
Δ: 5 or more and less than 7 out of 10 panelists answered that they had no whitening and were familiar with the skin color.
×: Less than 5 out of 10 panelists answered that they had no whitening and were familiar with the skin color.

Evaluation (3): Concavity and convexity concealment degree Ten professional panels applied a sample to the face and evaluated the concavity and convexity concealment degree during application.
A: Nine or more of 10 panelists answered that they had a concavity and convexity concealment degree.
○ Δ: 7 to less than 9 out of 10 panelists answered that there was a concavity and convexity concealment degree.
Δ: 5 or more and less than 7 out of 10 panelists answered that they had a concavity and convexity concealment degree.
X: Less than 5 out of 10 panelists answered that there was an unevenness concealment degree.

Evaluation (4): Coating color (superposition)
Ten professional panels applied a sample (makeup base) to the face, then applied a sample (foundation), and evaluated the coating color.
○: Nine or more of the 10 panelists answered that they had no whitening and were familiar with the skin color.
○ Δ: 7 or more of the 10 panelists and less than 9 panelists answered that they had no whitening and were familiar with the skin color.
Δ: 5 or more and less than 7 out of 10 panelists answered that they had no whitening and were familiar with the skin color.
×: Less than 5 out of 10 panelists answered that they had no whitening and were familiar with the skin color.

First, the present inventors examined a method for adjusting the brightness and saturation of makeup cosmetics.
In general, pigment grade titanium dioxide and black iron oxide are commonly used when adjusting brightness and saturation with makeup cosmetics (especially foundations). Since titanium dioxide has a high refractive index, non-selective scattering of visible light occurs and the appearance color is white. Further, black iron oxide has a substantially black appearance color that is not wavelength-dependent.
The effects of these components for adjusting lightness and saturation on light propagation in the skin were examined using the simple formulation shown in Table 1.

(Table 1)
Test example
1-1 1-2 1-3 1-4 1-4
Pigment grade titanium dioxide 0 5 4.875 4.75 4.5
Black iron oxide 0 0 0.125 0.25 0.5

Test Example 1-1 was applied to the bare skin as a control, and Test Examples 1-2 to 1-5 were each applied to a forearm inner part 5 × 5 cm so as to be 3 mg / cm ^2, and irradiated with a red light beam (640 nm). The relationship between the intensity of the feedback light from the skin and the distance from the distance was measured. The results are shown in FIG.

As is clear from FIG. 3, the presence of pigment-grade titanium dioxide itself does not significantly affect the return light from the skin, but black iron oxide rapidly decreases the return light due to the presence of a small amount.
Therefore, it is understood that the amount ratio of titanium dioxide and black iron oxide is extremely important in adjusting the amount of light transmitted.

  Therefore, the inventors changed the amount ratio of titanium dioxide and black iron oxide, manufactured a foundation having the composition shown in Table 2 below by the following manufacturing method, and measured the saturation and brightness. The brightness and saturation were measured with a spectrocolorimeter CM-2600d (manufactured by Minolta). And each sample was evaluated on the above-mentioned scoring criteria about evaluation items (1) to (3). The results are shown in Table 2.

-Manufacturing method of foundation To each place where the powder components were mixed and pulverized, a mixture obtained by heating and mixing the other components was added, stirred and mixed, and the pulverized product was molded into a container to obtain a powder cosmetic.

* 1: CR-50 (Ishihara Sangyo Co., Ltd.)
* 2: MT-014V (Taika)
* 3: R-516P (Titanium Industry Co., Ltd.)
* 4: Bengala No.216P (Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.)

According to Table 2, the unevenness concealment degree was excellent in Test Example 2-1 to Test Example 2-4 in which the brightness was high and the ratio of the pigment grade titanium dioxide was high with respect to black iron oxide.
On the other hand, in Test Examples 2-5 and 2-6 where the brightness was high and the ratio of black iron oxide was high, the shadows were slightly conspicuous and the degree of concavity and convexity was slightly inferior. This is presumably because the return light decreased due to the presence of black iron oxide as described above.
Therefore, the makeup cosmetic used in the present invention is required to have a pigment-grade titanium dioxide / black iron oxide having a mass ratio of 10,000 or more.

However, as in Test Examples 2-1 and 2-2, in a foundation with high brightness, the ratio of pigment-grade titanium dioxide is high with respect to black iron oxide, or the presence of other components makes the saturation very high. In this case, the coating color of the sample was very excellent, but the appearance color became white.
Such a high-saturation foundation has an appearance color that is far from the saturation of the bare skin, and the appearance color feels uncomfortable, as is not seen in conventional general foundations.

Therefore, the present inventors have examined a makeup base that can be realized when a desired foundation coating color is combined with a makeup base.
The color of the skin created based on the coating color calculated by the Kubelka-Munk theory, the base appearance color, the coating color after applying the base to the bare skin (base coating color), and the coating color after applying the foundation to the skin or the base The relationship between (FD coating color) and the appearance color of the foundation (FD appearance color) is shown in FIG.

According to FIG. 4, in order to finally realize the FD coating color (I, II) of makeup skin with high brightness, when only the foundation is used as described above, the foundation of the appearance color with very high saturation is used. It is necessary to apply (I).
On the other hand, when the base color of the base appearance color II is applied to the bare skin, and the color of the bare skin is adjusted to the base coat color II, the brightness of the foundation color to be applied is low even if the saturation of the appearance color II of the foundation is low. High makeup skin FD coating color (I, II) can be realized.
FIG. 4 suggests that it is necessary to select an appearance color (background appearance color) of such a makeup base that is higher in saturation than the bare skin.

  Next, the inventors manufactured a makeup base having the composition shown in Table 3 below, which actually has various saturations and brightnesses, by the following manufacturing method, and measured the saturation and brightness as described above. It was. And each sample was evaluated on the above-mentioned scoring criteria about evaluation items (1) and (2). The results are shown in Table 3.

-Manufacturing method of makeup base While stirring and mixing each component of the aqueous phase with a homogenizer, the heat-mixed oil phase component was added and mixed to obtain an emulsified composition.

* 5: MT-100TV (Taika)

  Next, the makeup base manufactured in Test Example 2 and Test Example 3 and then the foundation were applied to the face, and the evaluation items (3) and (4) were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 4. In addition, the result of Table 4 is shown by the result of evaluation (4) / result of evaluation (3).

According to Table 4, for example, when the foundation of Test Example 2-3 was used, the evaluation of the coating color when the makeup base was not used (applied to the bare skin) was ◯ △, but Test Examples 3-2 to 3 It turns out that evaluation goes up when it combines with makeup base of -4.
Therefore, in consideration of Table 4 and the appearance color of the foundation (Table 2), the makeup base of Test Examples 3-2 to 3-4, the foundation of Test Example 2-3, and the makeup base of Test Examples 3-2 and 3-3 When the combination of the foundation of Test Example 2-4 was applied, it was revealed that not only the appearance color of the foundation was excellent, but also a very excellent unevenness hiding effect could be realized.
That is, in the makeup method according to the present invention, it is necessary to use (A) a makeup base having a saturation of 3.5 or more and (B) a foundation having a saturation of 4.9 to 5.9.

Furthermore, the present inventors examined the relationship between the wavelength of light and the degree of concavity and convexity.
FIG. 5 shows the results of measuring the separation distance from the irradiation position and the intensity of the feedback light by irradiating the skin with light beams of various wavelengths.
As is clear from FIG. 5, it is understood that the longer the wavelength, the less the intensity of the feedback light decreases even if the distance is increased, that is, the longer the propagation distance of the long wavelength light.
Therefore, it is preferable that the makeup cosmetic (makeup base, foundation) used in the makeup method of the present invention contains red iron oxide and / or yellow iron oxide having low absorbance in the long wavelength region.

  Below, the formulation example of the makeup cosmetics used for the makeup method of this invention is given. The present invention is not limited by this formulation example.

Formulation Example 1 Powdered solid foundation (saturation: 5.4)
Dimethylpolysiloxane 5% by mass
Isostearic acid 0.5
Diisostearyl malate 1
Tri-2-ethylhexanesanglyseryl 3
Sorbitan sesquiisostearate 1
Spherical PMMA-coated mica 4
Fine zinc oxide 1
Fine particle titanium oxide 3
Synthetic phlogopite 20
Metal soap treated talc Residual spherical silica 3
DL-α-tocopherol acetate 0.1
D-δ-tocopherol 0.1
Ethylparaben Appropriate amount Methyl bis (trimethylsiloxy) silylisopentyl trimethoxycinnamate
0.1
2-methoxyhexyl paramethoxycinnamate 3
Spherical polyalkyl acrylate powder 2
Liquid paraffin-containing polyalkyl acrylate powder 4
Methyl hydrogen polysiloxane coated talc 20
Methyl hydrogen polysiloxane-coated barium sulfate 5
Methyl hydrogen polysiloxane coated pigment grade titanium dioxide 10
Methyl hydrogen polysiloxane / dimethylpolysiloxane coated iron oxide Mapico Red 516L 0.1
Methyl hydrogen polysiloxane coated Bengala 0.5
Methyl hydrogen polysiloxane coated yellow iron oxide 2.5
Methyl hydrogen polysiloxane coated black iron oxide 0.0005

Formulation Example 2 Water-in-oil emulsification foundation (saturation: 5.1)
Dimethylpolysiloxane 15% by mass
Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 20
Polyoxyethylene / methylpolysiloxane copolymer 5
High molecular weight amino-modified silicone 0.1
Glycerin 5
1,3-butylene glycol 10
Palmitic acid 0.5
Macadamia nut oil fatty acid cholesteryl 0.1
Distearyldimethylammonium chloride 0.2
Alkyl-modified silicone resin coated yellow iron oxide 2
Alkyl-modified silicone resin coated iron oxide Mapico Red 516L 0.2
Alkyl modified silicone resin coated bengara 1
Alkyl modified silicone resin coated black iron oxide 0.00025
Alkyl-modified silicone resin coated pigment grade titanium dioxide 10
Alkyl modified silicone resin coated talc oxide 1.5
Silicone coated spindle-shaped titanium oxide 3
Sodium L-glutamate 0.5
DL-α-tocopherol acetate 0.1
P-Hydroxybenzoate ester Methyl bis (trimethylsiloxy) silylisopentyl trimethoxycinnamate
0.1
Dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite 1.5
Spherical nylon powder 1
Purified water Residual fragrance Appropriate amount

Formulation Example 3 Makeup Base (Saturation: 3.7)
Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 18% by mass
Dimethylpolysiloxane (6 cps) 1
Dimethylpolysiloxane (1 million cps) 3
Methyl hydrogen polysiloxane coated talc 2
Methyl hydrogen polysiloxane coated pigment grade titanium dioxide 3
Methyl hydrogen polysiloxane / dimethylpolysiloxane coated iron oxide Mapico Red 516L 0.05
Methyl hydrogen polysiloxane-coated yellow iron oxide 0.1
Nylon powder 2
Ion exchange water Residual 1,3-butylene glycol 5
Sodium L-glutamate 2
Methylparaben 0.1

Claims (7)

(A) In a makeup method in which a makeup base is applied to the skin, and (B) a foundation is applied to the skin,
The saturation C of (A) is 3.5 or more, and the saturation C of (B) is 4.9 to 5.9,
A makeup method characterized in that pigment grade titanium dioxide / black iron oxide is 10,000 or more in mass ratio in the composition when (A) and (B) are mixed at 1: 1.   The makeup method according to claim 1, wherein the pigment grade titanium dioxide is 5 to 20% by mass in (B).   The makeup method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (A) and / or (B) contains red iron oxide and / or yellow iron oxide.   The makeup method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein (A) and / or (B) is an extender having a refractive index of 1.7 or less and / or titanium dioxide having an average particle size of less than 0.1 µm. A makeup method comprising the steps of:   A makeup base characterized by having a chroma C of 3.5 or more and being used in the makeup method according to any one of claims 1 to 4.   The chroma C is 4.9 to 5.9, and the pigment grade titanium dioxide / black iron oxide is 10,000 or more in mass ratio, and is used in the makeup method according to any one of claims 1 to 4. And the foundation. (A) a makeup base having a saturation C of 3.5 or more;
(B) a foundation having a saturation C of 4.9 to 5.9,
A makeup cosmetic kit characterized in that pigment grade titanium dioxide / black iron oxide is 10,000 or more in mass ratio in the composition when (A) and (B) are mixed at 1: 1.