JP2011038959A - Cosmetic effect evaluation method and cosmetic design method using the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a technique for objectively evaluating and displaying cosmetic effects and designing cosmetics in the evaluation of cosmetic effects for evaluating a sensation when a cosmetic is used, a sensation after its use, and a sensation in the first morning after its use. <P>SOLUTION: In the evaluation of cosmetic effects for evaluating a sensation when a cosmetic is used, a sensation after its use, and a sensation in the first morning after its use, the method for evaluating cosmetic effects; a cosmetic effect mapping method; and a cosmetic design method use two types or more of evaluation items selected from a rich sensation; a permeating sensation; a soft sensation; a firm sensation; and a moist sensation created by a multi-variate analysis and/or statistic technique. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2011,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a makeup effect evaluation method, a makeup effect display method, and a cosmetic design method.

  In general, skin care and makeup cosmetics are applied to the skin directly by the user from the container. And since cosmetics are used every day, it can be said that not only the functionality but also a feeling of use (feel) is a very important factor in the makeup effect. However, since the feeling of use is determined by the human sense, in addition to individual differences, it is greatly influenced by the skin condition and psychological condition. For this reason, the feeling of use of cosmetics is very easy to vary, and there has been a strong demand for technologies that can satisfy users, such as objective evaluation methods and display methods.

  Under such circumstances, various techniques for the feeling of use, which is one of the cosmetic effects, have been studied. For example, in order to provide an appropriate make-up cosmetic, a technique for setting a coloring effect scale based on a statistical survey method and presenting the quality (see Patent Document 1), a clean base makeup cosmetic can be provided. In addition, a method for selecting a suitable base makeup cosmetic based on the correspondence between the pore characteristics of the skin and the base makeup (see Patent Document 2), as an alternative to sensory evaluation, AE produced from cosmetics and its raw materials ( Technology that evaluates quality using the characteristic value of acoustic emission (see Patent Document 3), a method for predicting the feel during application of stick-shaped cosmetics using strain dependence of dynamic viscoelasticity as an index (patent) Reference 4), in powder cosmetics, a method of estimating the sensory evaluation value of powder cosmetics applied from the image optical quantity characteristics of the skin replica coated with the powder cosmetics (Patent Literature) See), or techniques such as a method (see Patent Document 6) for estimating the feeling of a cosmetic from migrating shear stress cosmetics is disclosed by an external force. These are methods for estimating the feeling of use mainly for makeup cosmetics or using the correlation between cosmetics and rheology. On the other hand, there has been an event in which a user changes an important factor when using cosmetics over time. In other words, there are three types of “feeling of use”, “feeling of use”, “feeling of use after use”, and “feeling of the next morning after use”. In the sense of penetration, feeling after use, or feeling in the morning after use, “feeling of tension”, “moist feeling” and “feeling of softness” are considered important. It is well known that important evaluation items for cosmetic use change over time, and that such use evaluation items can be objectively evaluated by multivariate analysis and statistical methods. There wasn't.

JP 2001-097821 A JP 2001-190525 A JP 2002-071652 A JP 2003-038773 A JP 2006-290745 A JP 2008-064722 A

  The present invention relates to a technique for objectively evaluating and displaying a cosmetic effect, and thereby designing a cosmetic in the evaluation of the cosmetic effect for evaluating the feeling when using the cosmetic, the feeling after use, and the morning feeling after use. The issue is to provide.

In view of such a situation, the present inventors have made intensive research efforts for a technique for objectively and accurately evaluating the feeling of use of cosmetics, and as a result, have been created by multivariate analysis or statistical methods. In addition, it was found that the feeling of use of cosmetics, the feeling of use after use, and the feeling of the next morning after use can be evaluated using evaluation items and / or evaluation scales, and the present invention has been completed. That is, this invention relates to the technique shown below.

(1) Evaluation made by multivariate analysis and / or statistical methods in the evaluation of the cosmetic effect for evaluating the “feel when used”, “feel after use” and “morning feeling after use” of cosmetics. A method for evaluating a makeup effect, characterized by using an item and / or an evaluation scale.
(2) The evaluation item is characterized by using two or more kinds selected from “Body feeling”, “Penetration feeling”, “Soft feeling”, “Hari feeling” and “Moist feeling” (1 ) Method for evaluating the makeup effect.
(3) The cosmetic effect evaluation method according to (1) or (2), wherein the cosmetic is a skin care cosmetic.
(4) A cosmetic effect display method, wherein the cosmetic effect is mapped using the evaluation method according to any one of (1) to (3).
(5) A cosmetic design method, wherein the cosmetic is designed using the evaluation method according to any one of (1) to (3).

  According to the present invention, it is possible to objectively evaluate and display the cosmetic effect of the cosmetic when used, the feeling after use, and the morning feeling after use, and design cosmetics using them. it can.

(1) Evaluation Method for Makeup Effect of the Present Invention As for the evaluation items and scaling required for the evaluation of the makeup effect, a “study method for evaluating makeup effect” in accordance with the user's actual situation is desirable. The manufacturing process is shown below. When the target user is surveyed, the user feels that the “feeling when using”, “feeling after use” and “feeling after morning after use” are the feelings of use at each step of the time course of cosmetic use. It became clear that the element judged to be the most important was changed. That is, in each step of the cosmetic, evaluation terms used when using the cosmetic or evaluating the quality were collected. The evaluation terms were organized and scaled by a statistical analysis method to create a practical “sensory evaluation profile”. Using the sensory evaluation profile, a plurality of cosmetics such as commercial and trial creams were evaluated by a plurality of trained evaluation panelists. The evaluation value was analyzed again by the statistical analysis method to analyze the interrelationship of the sensory terms, and a more practical “method for evaluating makeup effect” was prepared by narrowing down the evaluation items. Examples of the evaluation method of the cosmetic effect are preferably “bumpy feeling” and “penetration feeling” at the time of use of the cosmetics, “soft feeling”, “feel of firmness” and “moist feeling” in the morning after use or after use. It was. Further details are described below.

  In each step of the cosmetics, the collected cosmetics may be evaluated in terms of “in use”, for example, oily feeling, not bulky, not creased, rich, sticky, not stiff, not rough, and smooth. , Feeling of disappearing immediately, smoothness, smoothness, softness, smoothness, thickness, familiarity, smoothness, unsmoothness, ease of spreading, pashapasha, mild, mellowness, freshness, softness, richness , Uniform spread, light stretch, light blend, thickness, natural feeling, natural blend, speed of penetration, penetrating feeling, feeling that the applied thing is lost, feeling absorbed by the skin, feeling deep inside the skin, crumble A feeling or a close feeling can be illustrated. Similarly, the evaluation term of “after use” or “next morning after use” is, for example, moist, lack of bulkiness, textured, crisp, dull, not stiff, refreshing, smooth, refreshing, Moist, supple, refreshing, smooth, soft, unsatisfactory, glossy, smooth, smooth, moist, plump, pre-feel, non-sticky, mild, mellow, mellow, fresh, fluffy , Glutinous feeling, softness, tightness, sticky feeling, lingering feeling, lingering feeling, no feeling of lingering feeling, natural feeling, refreshing feeling, elasticity, transparency, elasticity from the inside, evenness of skin, lack of film feeling, A moisturizing feeling or adhesion feeling can be exemplified.

  It is more desirable that the above evaluation terms are arranged and scaled by a statistical analysis method to create and use a practical “sensory evaluation profile”. As the statistical analysis method, for example, factor analysis, principal component analysis, cluster analysis, quantification theory class 3 or quantification theory class 4 can be suitably exemplified, and commercially available software including correlation regression analysis, Free software can be used. Thus, as an evaluation item of the practical “sensory evaluation profile” thus produced, for example, in use, in the initial stage of elongation, middle period of elongation, thickness, adhesion, smoothness, richness, oily feeling, familiarity Well, you can present a familiar sense of resistance or permeation, with an evaluation scale of 3-9, preferably 5 or 7, and an odd scale of ± 2 or ± 3 left and right with the center at 0 (neither) It is preferable to write an adjective that is arranged and represents the degree corresponding to the evaluation item.

  The “sensory evaluation profile” can be realized as a “practical evaluation method for cosmetic effect” of the present invention by a technique as described below. That is, 5 to 20 cosmetics with different feelings of use are prepared commercially or with trial creams, and evaluated by 10 to 30 trained evaluation panelists using the sensory evaluation profile. The evaluation value is analyzed by the statistical analysis method to evaluate the mutual relationship between the evaluation items and cosmetics, and the evaluation items are extracted and carefully selected. Using the extracted evaluation items, it is possible to map the feeling of use of the cosmetic, and using the mapping, it is possible to suitably select the cosmetic that the user wants. As the method for extracting the evaluation items, hierarchical cluster analysis or principal component analysis is preferable, and as a result, “bumpy feeling” and “penetration feeling” at the time of use, “soft feeling” after use or the next morning after use, “ “Hari feeling” and “moist feeling” are extracted and classified. As will be described in detail in the examples described later (see FIGS. 1 to 3), such evaluation items are interrelated with the evaluation items of the sensory profile, and items that are important in the user's cosmetics are separately described. This is consistent with the results of the questionnaire survey and depth survey conducted.

  The items obtained as the “evaluation method of cosmetic effect” are “brightness”, “penetration”, “soft”, “feel” and “moist” as follows. It is defined. That is, the “bright feeling” means the degree of rich feeling in the early to middle stages of the skin, fingers, and eyes that are felt from the start of spreading to the skin with the finger until the end. “Penetration” refers to the degree of loss of thickness. “Softness” refers to the absence of resistance when the application site is lightly pressed with a fingertip, which is felt with the skin, fingers, palms, and eyes after having been extended to the skin with fingers. “Feeling” refers to the degree of force when the application site is lightly pressed with the palm and returned. “Moist feeling” refers to the degree of moistness at the application site. By defining, standardizing, and matching the standards in this way, it can be used as a method for evaluating makeup effects with high reproducibility and accuracy. Such an evaluation method can be applied to skin care cosmetics other than cream if set according to the above method, and can also be applied to makeup cosmetics, but it is more useful in skin care cosmetics where the feeling of use is more important. It is.

(2) Method of displaying cosmetic effect of the present invention If the cosmetic evaluation items are set as two axes and the cosmetic feel is mapped, the desired cosmetic can be easily selected using the mapping. . That is, when using, two items selected from “bumpy feeling” and “penetration feeling”, and after use or the next morning after use are selected from “soft feeling”, “harsh feeling” or “moist feeling”. The sensory evaluation data of various creams are mapped as in the examples described later (see FIG. 4). By using this mapping, you can check the evaluation items of the feeling of use of the cream that the user is using in any situation such as at the time of use, after use or the next morning after use, and easy to use and products that the user wants Can be pointed out and provided.

(3) Method for designing cosmetics according to the present invention The method for evaluating cosmetic effects is extremely useful and efficient for designing cosmetics. That is, each evaluation item, including “bumpy feeling”, “penetration feeling”, “soft feeling”, “harshness” and “moist feeling”, empirically and theoretically, components of cosmetics and their amounts Or it is closely related to the dosage form. Therefore, the cosmetic can be designed in the direction of the desired evaluation item by adjusting the components, the amount, or the dosage form of the cosmetic based on this relationship. As a method of using such a relationship for cosmetics design, for example, to increase the “richness”, to increase the solid fat, higher alcohol and / or oil phase, etc., and to deepen the “penetration” , Adoption of W / O agent type and / or increase of alcohol, increase of “moist feeling”, increase of oil phase and / or polyol, increase of “softness”, liquid oil, polar oil In addition, if the amount of semi-solid fat is increased and “feeling firm”, an increase or blending of solid fat, higher alcohol and / or film-forming polymer can be exemplified.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples, but it goes without saying that the present invention is not limited to these examples.

<Production of evaluation method for makeup effect>
With 10 trained evaluation panelists, 9 commercial creams were subjected to sensory evaluation at the time of use, after use, and the next morning after use, using the “sensory evaluation profile” (7-step evaluation). In order to clarify the important evaluation items at each step, the results of the analysis using the hierarchical cluster analysis software made by SPSS, the result is that “bumpy feeling” and “penetration feeling” at the time of use, as well as after use The “softness”, “harshness” and “moistness” in the next morning after use could be extracted as the upper cluster analysis. This result is consistent with the results of questionnaires and depth surveys conducted separately on items that the user thinks are important in cosmetics, and was found to be an extremely valid “method of evaluating makeup effects”. Further, the validity of such extracted evaluation items and other evaluation items of the sensory profile was confirmed from the Spearman rank correlation analysis result (p <0.01) manufactured by SPSS (FIG. 1). To 3).

<How to display cosmetic effects>
The evaluation values of the nine creams of Example 1 were mapped to a two-dimensional coordinate system for “bumpy feeling” and “penetration feeling” at the time of use of the cream, and “soft feeling” and “harness feeling” in the next morning after use. (See FIG. 4). Using FIG. 4, at the time of use requested by the user or at the next morning after use, etc., confirmation of the evaluation items of the feeling of use of the cream used by the user, suitable presentation of the feeling of use of the cream desired by the user, Provision can be made.

<Cosmetics design method>
From FIG. 4 obtained in Example 1, the relative positions of evaluation values such as the feeling of use of various creams can be understood. Using FIG. 4, a prototype cream P, in which the evaluation of “bumpy feeling” and “penetration feeling” when using the cream is significantly different from nine commercially available products, was designed as follows. That is, in order to increase the “bright feeling”, the amount of solid fat, higher alcohol and oil phase was increased, and in order to deepen the “penetration feeling”, a W / O agent type was used and the amount of alcohol was increased. The formulation of Cream P is shown in Table 1. As a result of evaluating the obtained cream P in the same manner as in Example 1, almost the estimated value was shown (indicated by P in the left side view of FIG. 4). It can be seen that such a design method can suitably present and provide a feeling of use and a product that the user desires.

<Cream P preparation method>
Cream P was produced according to the method shown below. That is, each of the ingredients i, b, and c is heated to 80 ° C., and b is gradually added to a while stirring to form a primary emulsified oil-in-water emulsion. In addition, secondary emulsification was carried out to obtain a diversified dispersion diversification type composite emulsifier type in which oil-in-water / water-in-oil mixed. This was stirred and cooled to obtain Cream P.

<Cream P prescription>
Ingredient Mass%
Ibatyl alcohol 1.6
Tri (capryl / caprin / myristin / stearic acid) glyceryl 1
Soy lecithin 0.2
Behenyl alcohol 1
Cetyl alcohol 1
N-lauroyl glutamate di (phytosteryl octyldodecyl) 4.5
Rape seed oil 1
Stearic acid 1.5
Dimer linoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl /
Stearyl / behenyl) 2.5
Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate 4
Cyclopentasiloxane 4.5
Meadow Foam Oil 5
1,1′-methylene-bis (4-isocyanatocyclohexane)
・ Polypropylene glycol copolymer 1
Glycerin fatty acid ester adipic acid condensate 1
Potassium hydroxide 0.2
1,3-butanediol 9
Xanthan gum 0.1
Lecithin hydroxide 0.3
Glycerin 4.5
Diglycerin 1.5
PEG400 1
Water 35
Hapolyoxyethylene (150) monostearic acid 1
1,3-butanediol 2
Intermediate oil-in-water emulsion 1 * 10
Water 5.6
Total 100
* Water-in-oil emulsion 1
Isho sugar fatty acid ester 0.3
Glyceryl triisooctanoate 3
Phenoxyethanol 0.5
Polyether-modified silicone 5
Cyclomethicone 42
Dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride modified hectorite 1
1,3-Butanediol 7
Glycerin 4
Diglycerin 2
Polyglucosyloxyethyl methacrylate 1
Polymethacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine 1
Water remaining

  By using the objective evaluation method of the cosmetic effect of the present invention, the display method thereof, and the technology for designing the cosmetics, the use of the cosmetics having the feeling of use and feel required by the user at the time of use, after use and the next morning after use It can be used for effective development, provision of suitable cosmetics and advice.

It is a figure which shows the correlation between the evaluation method items at the time of cream use. It is a figure which shows the correlation between the evaluation method items after cream use. It is a figure which shows the correlation between the evaluation items of the next morning after cream use. It is a scatter diagram of the feeling of use of various creams.

Claims (5)

In the evaluation of the cosmetic effect for evaluating the “feel when used”, “feel after use” and “morning feeling after use” of cosmetics, the evaluation items and / or created by multivariate analysis and / or statistical methods Or the evaluation method of a makeup effect characterized by using an evaluation scale. 2. The evaluation item according to claim 1, wherein two or more kinds selected from “bright feeling”, “penetration feeling”, “soft feeling”, “smooth feeling”, and “moist feeling” are used as the evaluation items. Method for evaluating the makeup effect of the skin. The cosmetic effect evaluation method according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic is a skin care cosmetic. A cosmetic effect display method, wherein the cosmetic effect is mapped using the evaluation method according to claim 1. A cosmetic design method, wherein the cosmetic is designed using the evaluation method according to claim 1.

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