JP2010194267A - Distinguish method for sensitive skin - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a technique for objectively and highly accurately estimating the degrees of sensitive skins using horny layer cells and a technique for selecting cosmetics based on the estimated degrees of the sensitive skins. <P>SOLUTION: The degrees (healthy indices) of the sensitive skins are estimated based on the correlation of the arrangement regularity of the horny layer cells and the degrees (the healthy indices) of the sensitive skins in every season. The degrees (healthy indices) of the sensitive skin are estimated based on the correlation of the yearly fluctuation of the arrangement regularity of the horny layer cells and the degrees (the healthy indices) of the sensitive skin. The method for selecting the cosmetics uses the estimated degrees (healthy indices) of the sensitive skins as marks. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2010,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a method for distinguishing sensitive skin, and more particularly to a method for distinguishing sensitive skin using the arrangement regularity of stratum corneum cells and a method for selecting a cosmetic using the method.

  Skin discrimination is indispensable for accurately selecting cosmetics and performing appropriate skin treatment, and various techniques for skin discrimination including questionnaires have been developed. As such discrimination, for example, a means for preparing a stratum corneum cell specimen, distinguishing damage using the stratum corneum peeling state as an index, measuring moisture permeability and conductance, and evaluating skin function And so on. However, among such skin discrimination, the discrimination of skin quality, in other words, skin sensitivity, is the most important issue. Although this is the basis for satisfying the need for cosmetics, “I want to have beautiful skin!”, The discrimination method is “Have you ever had trouble using cosmetics? Relying on questionnaires such as “?”, The objective discrimination method is not yet sufficient, and such technological development has been strongly desired.

  Under such circumstances, technical development focusing on the morphology and characteristics of the stratum corneum cell itself has been made, for example, a skin quality measurement method using an average value of the stratum corneum cell area and its coefficient of variation (for example, Patent Document 1), skin quality discrimination method using difference between standard stratum corneum cell area relative to age and stratum corneum cell area of subject as an index (for example, Patent Document 2, Patent Document 3), face and number of exposure less Skin quality discrimination method using the ratio of the size of the horny layer cells to the site as an index (see, for example, Patent Document 4), skin horny layer moisture content, transepidermal water transpiration (hereinafter abbreviated as TEWL), stratification A sensitive skin classification method using, for example, the amount of peeling, the thickness of the skin epidermis, the sensitivity to electrical stimulation, and the like (see, for example, Patent Document 5) is disclosed. In addition, as a method for distinguishing related barrier functions, a method for distinguishing skin barrier functions using the arrangement regularity and area of stratum corneum cells and the presence of nucleated cells as indices (for example, see Patent Document 6) is also known. . Such technology is surely improving the accuracy of discrimination of sensitive skin, but in order to answer the needs for cosmetics, further improvement in objectivity and accuracy has been eagerly desired.

  As a method of overcoming these problems, it is considered necessary to construct and analyze a considerable database such as annual variation and seasonal variation of stratum corneum cell arrangement regularity and sensitive skin. It is considered extremely difficult. On the other hand, it is not known at all that the degree of sensitive skin can be accurately estimated by using the arrangement regularity of stratum corneum cells as an index, and the selection of cosmetics based on the degree of sensitive skin thus estimated Nor was it known to provide a method.

JP-A-10-142224 JP-A-11-304798 JP 2000-116623 A JP 2001-108674 A JP 2004-097436 A JP 2001-013138 A

The present invention provides a technology for objectively, accurately, and accurately estimating the degree of sensitive skin using stratum corneum cells, and a technology for selecting a cosmetic based on the differentiated sensitive skin level. Let it be an issue.

In view of such a situation, the present inventors have made intensive research efforts in search of a technique for objectively, accurately and accurately estimating the degree of sensitive skin, and as a result, the stratum corneum for each year or season. Based on the correlation between the regularity of cells and the degree of sensitive skin, the inventors have found that the degree of sensitive skin can be estimated objectively and with high accuracy, and have completed the invention. That is, this invention relates to the technique shown below.
(1) A method for distinguishing sensitive skin, characterized in that the degree of sensitive skin (health index) is estimated using the arrangement regularity of the collected stratum corneum as an index.
(2) Estimating the degree of sensitive skin (health index) based on the correlation between the regularity of stratum corneum cells and the degree of sensitive skin (health index) for each season (1 ) For sensitive skin.
(3) The estimation of the degree of sensitive skin (health index) based on the correlation is calculated by the following formula in the four seasons of spring, summer, autumn, and winter: Sensitive skin discrimination method according to 1) or (2).
<Spring: March to May> (Health index) = 0.0217 * (Sequence regularity) + 2.4511
<Summer: June to August> (health index) = 0.0345 * (regularity of arrangement) +2.4689
<Autumn: September to November> (Health index) = 0.0381 * (regularity of arrangement) +2.4524
<Winter: 12-February> (Health index) = 0.0275 * (Sequence regularity) +2.4676
(4) The method according to (1), wherein the degree of sensitive skin (health index) is estimated based on a correlation between the annual variation in the regularity of stratum corneum cells and the degree of sensitive skin (health index). The sensitive skin discrimination method described.
(5) A method for selecting a cosmetic, characterized by using the degree of sensitive skin (health index) identified by (1) to (4) as an index.

  ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the technique which estimates the extent of sensitive skin objectively and with high precision can be provided.

(1) Sensitive skin discrimination method of the present invention The sensitive skin discrimination method of the present invention is characterized by estimating the degree of sensitive skin using the regularity of stratum corneum cells. In order to perform the discrimination, a relationship between the degree of sensitive skin and the arrangement regularity of the stratum corneum cells is clarified, and a regression equation or the like indicating the relationship is prepared and used for the discrimination. The details are described below.

  The general perception of sensitive skin is skin that is prone to skin problems with a few triggers, the barrier function of the skin is reduced, the ability to retain moisture in the stratum corneum is reduced, and it is very sensitive to external irritation It is in a weak state. Such sensitive skin is often predisposed to genetic constitutions such as allergies, and human bodies with allergic constitutions such as atopy have excessive immune functions when stimulating substances enter the stratum corneum. As a defense reaction, it tends to irritate the skin. In addition, a person who does not respond to a healthy person, a person with sensitive skin has a characteristic of being sensitive to a stimulus or a change, and the like. Since sensitive skin is extremely diverse, it is considered indispensable to collect a history of skin conditions by a questionnaire method or the like in order to estimate the degree of sensitive skin.

Based on the results of comprehensive analysis of accumulated data such as information on sensitive skin so far, patch tests, practical tests, various interviews, etc., the present inventors have used the following three questions to obtain extremely sensitive skin that is extremely satisfactory. It is confirmed that the degree of can be grasped. Here, the expression of the degree of sensitive skin produces a negative image, so the “health index” which means the opposite direction is used in actual calculation and display, but is defined as follows: .
Healthy index = (Sum of answers to Q1-3 questions) / 3
<Question>
Q1. Have you ever had a red skin when you massaged or rubbed a towel or puff?
Q2. Have you ever had an itchy or reddish face?
Q3. Have you ever irritated your skin with cosmetics?
<Answer>
1. Often 2. 2. Sometimes rare

  Evaluation of the regularity of the stratum corneum cells may be performed according to a standard method as follows. That is, the stratum corneum cells are collected by stripping from an area such as the cheek of the face by stripping, and then stained with a stain such as gentian violet, or unstained with a digital microscope or digital After capturing as an enlarged image using a commercially available device such as a camera, the arrangement regularity is evaluated. The arrangement regularity means that the stratum corneum cells are uniform in size and have little variation, and the hexagonal structure in which the shape of each cell is not collapsed is firmly maintained, and the arrangement of stratum corneum cells is regular. It is defined by how much it satisfies. In order to evaluate the arrangement regularity, the level of arrangement regularity is set in advance, a standard set in which a plurality of standard images of various levels are arranged is prepared, and, for example, the arrangement regularity is good by comparing with these ( It can be ranked as (score 4) to poor array regularity (score 1) (see FIG. 1). In order to produce such a standard set, data of at least 1000 people, preferably 10,000 or more, are collected in consideration of variations in each age, gender, season, and prefecture. It is desirable to be based on keratinocytes.

  Although there is no clear knowledge about the relationship between sensitive skin and arrangement regularity, it can be inferred that the arrangement regularity is a component of the barrier function since the arrangement regularity is a component of the barrier function. In order to clarify such a relationship, 544,053 people were extracted from a database composed of women aged 20-40 for 36 months in 46 prefectures, 2005-2007, and sensitive skin was extracted by the questionnaire. At the same time, the arrangement regularity was calculated from the stratum corneum cells collected from the cheek by a conventional method. After dividing into 4 groups according to the degree of sensitive skin (health index), when the annual change in arrangement regularity (average value) was examined, the arrangement regularity became good in the summer of July to September, and 12 to 1 It showed a clear monthly change that would worsen in the winter months of the moon (see Figure 2). Furthermore, for each healthy index, a significant difference in the ordering regularity was recognized among the four groups at all months, indicating that the degree of sensitive skin (health index) and the ordering regularity are correlated.

In the monthly change, since the degree of sensitive skin (health index) and the arrangement regularity are correlated, further, the correlation between the degree of sensitive skin (health index) and the arrangement regularity of stratum corneum for each season. When analysis and regression analysis are performed, it can be seen that a significant correlation (correlation coefficient = 0.90 to 0.99 (p> 0.001)) is exhibited in any season (see FIG. 3). Therefore, it can be understood that the degree of sensitive skin (health index) can be estimated with high accuracy from the arrangement regularity by using the regression equation calculated as described above.
<Spring: March to May> (Health index) = 0.0217 * (Sequence regularity) + 2.4511
<Summer: June to August> (health index) = 0.0345 * (regularity of arrangement) +2.4689
<Autumn: September to November> (Health index) = 0.0381 * (regularity of arrangement) +2.4524
<Winter: 12-February> (Health index) = 0.0275 * (Sequence regularity) +2.4676

Focusing on the change in the monthly change, a significant correlation (correlation coefficient = 0.990 (p> 0. 0) is obtained from the correlation between the annual difference in arrangement regularity and the degree of sensitive skin (health index). 001)) (see FIG. 4). Therefore, it can be understood that the degree of sensitive skin (health index) can be estimated with high accuracy from the annual difference in arrangement regularity by using the regression equation calculated as described above.
(Health index) = − 2.771154 * (annual difference in arrangement regularity) +30.766923

  The correlation analysis, regression analysis, and the like can be executed using free software or commercially available general-purpose multivariate analysis software. Examples thereof include SPSS series manufactured by SPSS and JMP manufactured by SAS.

  Thus, it can be seen that the degree of sensitive skin (health index) can be estimated with high accuracy from the regularity of the stratum corneum cells, but the characteristic value of other stratum corneum cells related to sensitive skin, for example, the stratum corneum cell area And variability thereof, detachment of horny layer cells (stratified detachment), presence or absence of nucleated cells, or microvillous-like processes, or physiological values of horny layer cells such as TEWL, sebum amount, skin moisture content, etc. It can also be used. That is, as with the arrangement regularity, by incorporating these into explanatory variables to create a multiple regression analysis formula, it is possible to contribute to improvement in the estimation accuracy of the degree of sensitive skin (health index). Such a range also belongs to the technical category of the present invention.

(2) Method for selecting cosmetics of the present invention The method for selecting cosmetics of the present invention is characterized in that cosmetics are identified based on the degree of sensitive skin (health index) identified as described above. . The ranking of the degree of sensitive skin (health index) is not particularly limited, but in reality it is preferably 3 or 4 ranks. For example, normal cosmetics are selected for subjects identified as having a health index of 2.5 or higher, and less stimuli are selected for subjects identified as having a health index of 1.5 or less. Even if it can be used without problems, it is prone to problems in people with sensitive skin, and refrains from preservatives such as surfactants, alcohols, parabens, sulfated trehalose sodium, sodium hyaluronate, heparin analogues, It is preferable to select a cosmetic containing a component having moisturizing properties such as burdock corn extract, birch extract, mulberry extract and the like, and having an irritation suppressing action. In the past, because sensitive skin and normal skin were identified by self-reports or by interviews, the health index as in the present invention may diverge, and appropriate cosmetics are not always selected. There was never. Since the differentiation method of the present invention is based on the essence of arrangement regularity of horny layer cells, it is highly objective and can select cosmetics that match physiological characteristics. In addition, the selection of cosmetics thus obtained and the degree of sensitive skin (health index) can also be used as advice and counseling for customers.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples, but it goes without saying that the present invention is not limited to these examples.

<Test example>
<Method>
For 60 volunteers aged 20 to 40 years old, two groups of 30 people in Group A and 30 people in Group B are set according to the following skin quality classification method. A cosmetic use test was conducted for two months. As for the use of cosmetics, the cosmetics currently in use were used for normal skin, and the following cosmetics for sensitive skin (skin lotion, emulsion) were used for sensitive skin. After the period of use, we investigated the occurrence of skin problems and skin improvements.
<Result>
Among the 15 sensitive skins of Group A classified by the discrimination method of the present invention, there were 0 skin troubles, and all 15 responded that the skin was improved. On the other hand, in 18 sensitive skins of Group B classified by self-report, there were 0 skin troubles, but 13 people answered “Skin improved” and 3 out of 12 normal skins in Group B Name reported skin trouble. This is presumed to be due to insufficient skin improvement and skin trouble because the skin classification by self-reporting was not accurate. From this, it can be seen that the method for distinguishing sensitive skin and the method for selecting a cosmetic using the same of the present invention have objectivity, high accuracy, and accuracy.

<Skin classification method>
Group A: After collecting stratum corneum cells by a conventional method, the sequence regularity was evaluated, and “<Spring: March to May> (health index) = 0.0217 * (sequence regularity) described in paragraph 0014” The health index was calculated using the formula of “+2.4511”. A healthy index of 2.0 or higher was classified as normal skin, and less than that was classified as sensitive skin (15 normal skin and 15 sensitive skin).
Group B: Based on self-report, the skin was divided into normal skin (12 people) and sensitive skin (18 people in total, including slightly sensitive skin).
<Cosmetics prescription>
(Cosmetic for sensitive skin: lotion)
1,4-pentanediol 5 parts by weight Glycerin 3 parts by weight Ethanol 5 parts by weight Sulfated trehalose sodium 0.1 part by weight Heparin-like substance 0.1 part by weight Kuki ethanol extract 0.1 part by weight Birch ethanol extract 0.1 Parts by weight burdock corn ethanol extract 0.1 parts by weight water remaining amount (cosmetics for sensitive skin: emulsion)
1,4-pentanediol 5 parts by weight Glycerin 3 parts by weight Ethanol 5 parts by weight
Sulfated trehalose sodium 0.1 part by weight Heparin analog 0.1 part by weight Koki ethanol extract 0.1 part by weight Birch ethanol extract 0.1 part by weight Burdock corn ethanol extract 0.1 part by weight Acrylic acid / methacrylic acid Alkyl (C10-30) copolymer 0.2 parts by weight Potassium hydroxide 0.2 parts by weight Water remaining amount Squalane 5 parts by weight Undecylenic acid monoglyceride 3 parts by weight Behenyl alcohol 2 parts by weight Glycerin monooleyl ether 1 part by weight

  The present invention can provide a technique for objectively and accurately estimating the degree of sensitive skin using stratum corneum cells. As a result, it can be used for advice such as counseling on customers' sensitive skin and selection of cosmetics suitable for the skin at department stores and stores.

It is a figure which shows the standard photograph used for evaluation of the arrangement | sequence regularity of a horny layer cell (drawing substitute photograph). It is a figure which shows the monthly change of arrangement regularity for every healthy index. It is a figure which shows the correlation of arrangement regularity and a healthy index in every season. It is a figure which shows the correlation with the annual difference of arrangement regularity, and a healthy index.

Claims (5)

A method for distinguishing sensitive skin, characterized in that the degree of sensitive skin (health index) is estimated using the arrangement regularity of the collected stratum corneum as an index. The degree of sensitive skin (health index) is estimated based on the correlation between the regularity of stratum corneum cells and the degree of sensitive skin (health index) for each season. To distinguish sensitive skin. The estimation of the degree of sensitive skin (health index) based on the correlation is calculated by the following equation in four seasons: spring, summer, autumn, and winter. 2. Sensitive skin discrimination method according to 2.
<Spring: March to May> (Health index) = 0.0217 * (Sequence regularity) + 2.4511
<Summer: June to August> (health index) = 0.0345 * (regularity of arrangement) +2.4689
<Autumn: September to November> (Health index) = 0.0381 * (regularity of arrangement) +2.4524
<Winter: 12-February> (Health index) = 0.0275 * (Sequence regularity) +2.4676 2. The sensitivity according to claim 1, wherein the degree of sensitive skin (health index) is estimated based on the correlation between the annual variation in the regularity of stratum corneum cells and the degree of sensitive skin (health index). Skin discrimination method A method for selecting a cosmetic, characterized by using the degree of sensitive skin (health index) identified by claims 1 to 4 as an index.

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