JP2010133052A - Light-weight woven fabric and clothing material - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a light-weight woven fabric and a clothing material having excellent water repellency, high tearing strength and light weight. <P>SOLUTION: The light-weight woven fabric has a fabric weight of ≤90 g/m<SP>2</SP>, includes a composite yarn obtained by using a polyester filament A having a single fiber fineness of ≥0.8 dtex and a polyester filament B having a single fiber fineness of ≤0.6 dtex and has a yarn length difference defined below of ≥8%. A composite yarn is extracted from the woven fabric, a weight of 0.1 cN (0.1 g)×(total fineness (dtex) of the composite yarn) is attached to the yarn, the yarn is cut to 5 cm long, the polyester filament A (single yarn) and the polyester filament B (single yarn) are taken out from the cut composite yarn, a weight of 0.1 cN (0.1 g)×(single fiber fineness (dtex)) is applied to each filament, the length of the filament is measured, and the yarn length difference (%) is calculated by the following formula: (yarn length difference (%))=(LB-LA)/LA×100 wherein LA is the yarn length (cm) of the polyester filament A, and LB is the yarn length (cm) of the polyester filament B. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2010,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a lightweight fabric and apparel having excellent water repellency and high tear strength despite being a lightweight fabric.

Conventionally, fabrics having water repellency have been demanded for uses such as sports clothing, casual clothing, and umbrella fabrics, and methods for applying water repellency treatment to fabrics, forming fabrics with polyester fibers, and making the surface of the fabric an uneven structure Have been proposed (see, for example, Patent Documents 1 and 2).
However, the conventional water-repellent fabric has a large basis weight and is heavy and insufficient in terms of light weight. Further, if the basis weight is reduced to reduce the weight, there is a problem that water repellency and tear strength are impaired.

JP 60-94645 A JP 61-70043 JP

  The present invention has been made in view of the above background, and an object of the present invention is to provide a lightweight fabric and apparel having excellent water repellency, high tearing strength, and light weight.

  As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventor has produced excellent repellency by producing a woven fabric using a composite yarn containing two kinds of polyester filaments having a specific single yarn fineness and hot water shrinkage. The present inventors have found that a lightweight woven fabric having all of water, high tearing strength, and light weight can be obtained, and further intensively studied to complete the present invention.

Thus, according to the present invention, “a lightweight woven fabric having a basis weight of 90 g / m ² or less, a polyester filament A having a single yarn fineness of 0.8 dtex or more and a polyester filament B having a single yarn fineness of 0.6 dtex or less is used. A lightweight woven fabric comprising a composite yarn obtained as described above and having a yarn foot difference defined below of 8% or more.

Pull out the composite yarn from the woven fabric, apply a load of 0.1 cN (0.1 g) x total fineness (dtex) of the composite yarn, cut it to a length of 5 cm, and from the cut composite yarn, polyester filament A (single yarn) And polyester filament B (single yarn) are taken out, each is subjected to a load of 0.1 cN (0.1 g) × single yarn fineness (dtex), and the length is measured. Is calculated.
Yarn foot difference (%) = (LB−LA) / LA × 100
However, LA is the yarn length (cm) of the polyester filament A, and LB is the yarn length (cm) of the polyester filament B.

  In that case, it is preferable that the number of filaments of the said polyester filament A exists in the range of 5-25. Moreover, it is preferable that the number of filaments of the said polyester filament B exists in the range of 45-200. The total fineness of the composite yarn is preferably 56 dtex or less.

In the lightweight fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the fabric is dyed. Moreover, it is preferable that the fabric is subjected to water-repellent processing and / or calendar processing. Moreover, it is preferable that the cover factor CF of the textile fabric defined below is in the range of 1400 to 3000.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) ^1/2 × MWp + (DWf / 1.1) ^1/2 × MWf
However, DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weave density (main / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weave density (main / 2.54 cm).

Moreover, it is preferable that the tear strength in the warp and weft directions of the fabric is 7N or more. The air permeability of the fabric is preferably 10 cc / cm ² · sec or less. In addition, the water pressure resistance of the fabric is preferably 200 mmH ₂ O or more. Moreover, it is preferable that the water-repellent rolling angle of the fabric is 25 degrees or less.
However, the water-repellent rolling angle is defined as when 0.2 cc of water is gently dropped onto a flat sample to be measured mounted on a horizontal plate, and the flat plate is gently tilted at a constant speed so that the water droplets begin to roll. Is an angle.
Moreover, according to this invention, the clothing using the said lightweight fabric is provided.

  ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the lightweight fabric and clothing which have the outstanding water repellency, high tearing strength, and lightweight property are provided.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
The lightweight fabric of the present invention is a lightweight fabric having a basis weight of 90 g / m ² or less, and is obtained using a polyester filament A having a single yarn fineness of 0.8 dtex or more and a polyester filament B having a single yarn fineness of 0.6 dtex or less. Containing composite yarns.

Here, it is important that the polyester filament A used in the present invention has a single yarn fineness of 0.8 dtex or more (preferably 0.8 to 3.0 dtex, more preferably 0.8 to 1.5 dtex). When the single yarn fineness is less than 0.8 dtex, the tear strength of the resulting lightweight fabric is lowered, which is not preferable.
The number of filaments of the polyester filament A is preferably in the range of 5 to 25.

  The type of polymer forming the polyester filament A is not particularly limited as long as it is a polyester-based polymer. Polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polylactic acid, stereocomplex polylactic acid, and a third component are copolymerized. Preferred examples include polyester. Such polyester may be material recycled or chemically recycled polyester. Furthermore, the polyester obtained using the catalyst containing the specific phosphorus compound and titanium compound which are described in Unexamined-Japanese-Patent No. 2004-270097 and 2004-2111268 may be sufficient. In particular, in order to obtain the hot water shrinkage as described later, a dicarboxylic acid (for example, naphthalene) different from the normal dicarboxylic acid component as the third component is added to the normal dicarboxylic acid component and alkylene glycol component of the fiber-forming polyester. A copolymer polyester obtained by copolymerizing one or more of dicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid), a glycol component different from the normal alkylene glycol component (for example, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol), bisphenol A and bisphenol sulfone, preferable.

  In the polymer, a fine pore forming agent, a cationic dye dyeing agent, an anti-coloring agent, a heat stabilizer, a fluorescent whitening agent, a matting agent, a coloring agent may be added as necessary within the range not impairing the object of the present invention. 1 type (s) or 2 or more types of an agent, a hygroscopic agent, and inorganic fine particles may be contained.

  In the said polyester filament A, the cross-sectional shape of a single fiber is not specifically limited, Any, such as a round, a triangle, a flat, a flat with a constriction, may be sufficient. The fiber form is not particularly limited, and any of spun yarn and long fiber (multifilament) may be used. Furthermore, even if false twist crimping processing or air processing is performed, it does not matter.

  On the other hand, it is important that the polyester filament B used in the present invention has a single yarn fineness of 0.6 dtex or less (preferably 0.00001 to 0.6 dtex, more preferably 0.00001 to 0.4 dtex). When the single yarn fineness is larger than 0.6 dtex, the water repellency of the resulting lightweight fabric is lowered, which is not preferable.

  The type of the polymer that forms the polyester filament B is not particularly limited as long as it is a polyester polymer. Polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polylactic acid, stereocomplex polylactic acid, and a third component are copolymerized. Preferred examples include polyester. Such polyester may be material recycled or chemically recycled polyester. Furthermore, the polyester obtained using the catalyst containing the specific phosphorus compound and titanium compound which are described in Unexamined-Japanese-Patent No. 2004-270097 and 2004-2111268 may be sufficient. In particular, polyethylene terephthalate is preferable in obtaining a hot water shrinkage as described later.

  In the polymer, a fine pore forming agent, a cationic dye dyeing agent, an anti-coloring agent, a heat stabilizer, a fluorescent whitening agent, a matting agent, a coloring agent may be added as necessary within the range not impairing the object of the present invention. 1 type (s) or 2 or more types of an agent, a hygroscopic agent, and inorganic fine particles may be contained.

  In the said polyester filament B, the cross-sectional shape of a single fiber is not specifically limited, Any may be round, a triangle, a flat, a flat with a constriction. The fiber form is not particularly limited, and any of spun yarn and long fiber (multifilament) may be used. Furthermore, even if false twist crimping processing or air processing is performed, it does not matter.

  The lightweight woven fabric of the present invention includes a composite yarn obtained by using the polyester filament A and the polyester filament B, and a yarn foot difference defined below is 8% or more (preferably 8 to 20%). It is the lightweight textile characterized by this. Here, when the above-described difference in the thread length is smaller than 8%, it is not preferable because sufficient water repellency cannot be obtained.

Pull out the composite yarn from the woven fabric, apply a load of 0.1 cN (0.1 g) x total fineness (dtex) of the composite yarn, cut it to a length of 5 cm, and from the cut composite yarn, polyester filament A (single yarn) And polyester filament B (single yarn) are taken out, each is subjected to a load of 0.1 cN (0.1 g) × single yarn fineness (dtex), and the length is measured. Is calculated.
Yarn foot difference (%) = (LB−LA) / LA × 100
However, LA is the yarn length (cm) of the polyester filament A, and LB is the yarn length (cm) of the polyester filament B.

The lightweight fabric of the present invention can be produced, for example, by the following method. First, a polyester filament A (single yarn fineness of 0.8 dtex or more) and a polyester filament B (single yarn fineness of 0.6 dtex or less) having a hot water shrinkage ratio of the both are prepared as follows.
FSA (%)-FSB (%) ≧ 8 (%) (preferably 20 (%) ≧ FSA (%)-FSB (%) ≧ 8 (%))
However, FSA is the hot water shrinkage (%) of the polyester filament A, and FSB is the hot water shrinkage (%) of the polyester filament B.

  As described above, when the hot water shrinkage rate of the polyester filament A is larger than the hot water shrinkage rate of the polyester filament B, the yarn of polyester filament A and polyester filament B is obtained when heat treatment such as dyeing is performed on the resulting lightweight fabric. An excellent difference in water repellency can be obtained when a difference in foot is developed and minute protrusions made of polyester filament B appear on the surface of the fabric.

  Here, the hot water shrinkage of the polyester filament A is preferably in the range of 12 to 40%. On the other hand, the hot water shrinkage of the polyester filament B is preferably in the range of 1 to 10%. In addition, the polyester filament which has this hot water shrinkage rate can be easily obtained by spinning and extending | stretching by the conventional method using the above polyesters.

  In the present invention, the composite yarn includes the polyester filament A and the polyester filament B. The composite yarn is most preferably composed only of the polyester filament A and the polyester filament B, but 40% by weight or less of other fibers may be contained with respect to the composite yarn weight.

  The composite method of the composite yarn is not particularly limited, and suitable examples include air mixing using a known interlace nozzle, composite false twist, double twist yarn, and covering. Of these, air mixing using a known interlace nozzle is preferred.

In the composite yarn, when obtaining a woven fabric having a basis weight of 90 g / m ² or less, the total fineness of the composite yarn is preferably 56 dtex or less (more preferably 20 to 46 dtex). If the total fineness is larger than 56 dtex, a fabric having a basis weight of 90 g / m ² or less may not be obtained.

Next, a fabric having a basis weight of 90 g / m ² or less is woven using the composite yarn. At that time, it is most preferable to weave the woven fabric using only the above-mentioned composite yarn, but other fibers may be used as long as they are 50% by weight or less based on the weight of the woven fabric.

  Here, the structure of the woven fabric is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include a three-layer structure such as plain weave, twill weave and satin weave, a change structure, a single double structure such as a vertical double weave and a horizontal double weave, and a vertical velvet. Illustrated. The number of layers may be a single layer or a multilayer of two or more layers. The weaving method may be a normal weaving method using a normal loom (for example, a normal water jet loom or an air jet loom).

  In the present invention, it is preferable to carry out a dyeing process after producing the woven fabric as described above. When the woven fabric is dyed, the polyester filament A and the polyester filament B are thermally contracted due to heat during the dyeing processing, and a difference in thread length is developed. Appearance of water gives excellent water repellency.

  Further, when the water-repellent processing and / or calendering (preferably water-repellent processing and calendering) is performed after the dyeing processing, the woven fabric preferably has further excellent water repellency and water resistance. At that time, the calendering conditions are preferably a temperature of 130 ° C. or higher (more preferably 140 to 195 ° C.) and a linear pressure of 200 to 20000 N / cm. Further, the water repellent finish may be a normal one. For example, the methods described in Japanese Patent No. 3133227 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 4-5786 are suitable. That is, a commercially available fluorine-based water repellent (for example, Asahi Guard LS-317, manufactured by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd.) is used as the water repellent, and the concentration of the water repellent is adjusted by mixing melamine resin and catalyst as necessary. In this method, the surface of the woven fabric is treated with the processing agent at a pickup rate of about 50 to 90% with a processing agent of about 3 to 15% by weight. Examples of the method for treating the surface of the woven fabric with the processing agent include a pad method and a spray method. Among them, the pad method is most preferable for allowing the processing agent to penetrate into the woven fabric. In addition, the said pick-up rate is the weight ratio (%) with respect to the textile fabric (before processing agent provision) weight of a processing agent.

  In addition, before and / or after the dyeing process and / or water-repellent process and / or calendar process, a conventional alkali weight reduction process, raising process, ultraviolet shielding or antibacterial agent, deodorant, insect repellent, phosphorescent agent Various processings that provide functions such as a retroreflective agent and a negative ion generator may be additionally applied.

  Since the polyester filament B has a bulge (convex portion) on the surface of the woven fabric thus obtained and an air layer is formed there, it exhibits excellent water repellency due to the presence of air when water droplets are deposited. In that case, as water repellency, it is preferable that the water-repellent rolling angle of the fabric is 25 degrees or less.

  However, the water-repellent rolling angle is defined as when 0.2 cc of water is gently dropped onto a flat sample to be measured mounted on a horizontal plate, and the flat plate is gently tilted at a constant speed so that the water droplets begin to roll. Is an angle.

  Further, since the woven fabric includes polyester filament A having a single yarn fineness of 0.8 dtex or more, it has an excellent tear strength. At that time, the tear strength in the warp and weft directions of the fabric is preferably 7N or more.

Moreover, in such a woven fabric, it is preferable that the woven fabric has a cover factor CF in the range of 1400 to 3000 because excellent windproof properties and water pressure resistance are obtained.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) ^1/2 × MWp + (DWf / 1.1) ^1/2 × MWf
However, DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weave density (main / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weave density (main / 2.54 cm).
At that time, the air permeability of the fabric is preferably 10 cc / cm ² · sec or less. The water pressure resistance is preferably 200 mmH ₂ O or more.

Next, the garment of the present invention is a garment made of the above-mentioned fabric. Since the garment of the present invention uses the woven fabric, it has excellent water repellency, high tearing strength, and light weight.
In addition, since the said woven fabric has excellent water repellency, high tearing strength, and light weight, it is suitably used not only for clothing but also for umbrellas, raincoats, and the like.

  Next, although the Example and comparative example of this invention are explained in full detail, this invention is not limited by these. In addition, each measurement item in an Example was measured with the following method.

(1) Hot water shrinkage rate The test filament yarn is wound around a measuring machine with a circumference of 1.125 m 10 times to prepare a skein, and this skein is suspended from a hanging nail on a scale plate, A load of 1/30 of the total mass of the skein was applied to the lower end of the hanging skein, and the length L1 of the skein before the shrinkage treatment was measured.
Remove the load from this skein, put the skein into a cotton bag, take out the cotton bag containing this skein from boiling water, take out the skein from this cotton bag, absorb the water contained in the skein with filter paper, This was air-dried at room temperature for 24 hours. The air-dried skein is hung on a hanging nail of the scale plate, and the lower part of the skein is applied with a load of 1/3 of the total mass of the skein, and the length of the skein after the shrinkage treatment is applied. L2 was measured. And the boiling water shrinkage | contraction rate (FS) of a test filament yarn is computed by a following formula.
FS (%) = ((L1-L2) / L1) × 100

(2) Thread foot difference (%)
Pull out the composite yarn from the woven fabric, apply a load of 0.1 cN (0.1 g) x total fineness (dtex) of the composite yarn, cut it to a length of 5 cm, and from the cut composite yarn, polyester filament A (single yarn) And polyester filament B (single yarn) are taken out, each is subjected to a load of 0.1 cN (0.1 g) × single yarn fineness (dtex), and the length is measured. Is calculated.
Yarn foot difference (%) = (LB−LA) / LA × 100
However, LA is the yarn length (cm) of the polyester filament A, and LB is the yarn length (cm) of the polyester filament B.

(3) Cover factor CF
The cover factor CF of the woven fabric was calculated from the following formula.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) ^1/2 × MWp + (DWf / 1.1) ^1/2 × MWf
However, DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weave density (main / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weave density (main / 2.54 cm).

(4) Water pressure resistance The water pressure resistance was measured according to JIS L1092B.

(5) Air permeability It measured by JISL1096-8.27.1A method.

(6) Water repellency (water repellent rolling angle)
0.2 cc of water was gently dropped on a flat sample to be measured mounted on a horizontal plate, and this flat plate was gently tilted at a constant speed, and the angle at which the water droplets began to roll was defined as the water repellent rolling angle. In addition, water repellency is so favorable that a water-repellent rolling angle is small, and 25 degrees or less is set as a pass.

[Example 1]
A copolyester composed of terephthalic acid / isophthalic acid and ethylene glycol having a molar ratio of 93/7 was spun and drawn by a conventional method to produce a copolyester multifilament 16 dtex / 12 fil (polyester filament A, single yarn fineness 1.33 dtex). , Hot water shrinkage 20%) was obtained.
On the other hand, polyethylene terephthalate was spun and drawn by a conventional method to obtain polyethylene terephthalate multifilament 22 dtex / 72 fil (polyester filament B, single yarn fineness 0.31 dtex, hot water shrinkage 7%).

Subsequently, the polyester filament A and the polyester filament B were aligned and air-mixed at a yarn speed of 600 m / min using a known interlace nozzle to obtain an interlaced mixed yarn 38 dtex / 84 fil (composite yarn). .
Next, using a normal water jet loom, the interlaced mixed yarn 38dtex / 84fil was arranged on the warp and the weft to obtain a living machine with a plain structure.
Next, after dyeing in the usual dyeing process, normal water-repellent processing is carried out, dried at 130 ° C. for 3 minutes, heat-treated at 170 ° C. for 45 seconds, and then subjected to normal calendering at a roll temperature of 150 ° C. A lightweight fabric was obtained.

In the obtained lightweight woven fabric, the cover factor (CF) is 2090, the difference in the foot between the polyester filament A and the polyester filament B is 13.2% weft, 12.9% weft, and the tear strength is 9.6 N / weft. 3N, water repellent rolling angle was 9 degrees / 11 degrees in latitude and was very excellent in water repellency, and the basis weight was 69 g / m ² and very light. The water pressure resistance was 470 mmH ₂ O, and the air permeability was 0.5 cc / cm ² · sec.

[Comparative Example 1]
In Example 1, it carried out like Example 1 except having made polyester filament B 22 dtex / 36fil (single yarn fineness 0.61).
In the obtained woven fabric, the cover factor (CF) is 2150, the difference in the foot length between the polyester filaments A and B is 12.8% warp 13.0%, the tear strength is 10.2N / wet 10.1N, basis weight Although it was very light as 69 g / m ² , it was inferior in water repellency, with a water repellent rolling angle of 34 degrees / 40 degrees. The water pressure resistance was 490 mmH ₂ O, and the air permeability was 0.7 cc / cm ² · sec.

  According to the present invention, a lightweight woven fabric and apparel having excellent water repellency, high tearing strength, and light weight can be obtained, and its industrial value is extremely large.

Claims (12)

A lightweight fabric with a basis weight of 90 g / m ² or less,
Including a composite yarn obtained using a polyester filament A having a single yarn fineness of 0.8 dtex or more and a polyester filament B having a single yarn fineness of 0.6 dtex or less, and the yarn foot difference defined below is 8% or more A lightweight fabric characterized by being.
Pull out the composite yarn from the woven fabric, apply a load of 0.1 cN (0.1 g) x total fineness (dtex) of the composite yarn, cut it to a length of 5 cm, and from the cut composite yarn, polyester filament A (single yarn) And polyester filament B (single yarn) are taken out, each is subjected to a load of 0.1 cN (0.1 g) × single yarn fineness (dtex), and the length is measured. Is calculated.
Yarn foot difference (%) = (LB−LA) / LA × 100
However, LA is the yarn length (cm) of the polyester filament A, and LB is the yarn length (cm) of the polyester filament B.   The lightweight fabric according to claim 1, wherein the number of filaments of the polyester filament A is in the range of 5 to 25.   The lightweight fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the number of filaments of the polyester filament B is within a range of 45 to 200.   The lightweight fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the total fineness of the composite yarn is 56 dtex or less.   The lightweight fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the fabric is dyed.   The lightweight woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the woven fabric is subjected to water-repellent processing and / or calendar processing. The lightweight fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the fabric has a cover factor CF as defined below within a range of 1400 to 3000.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) ^1/2 × MWp + (DWf / 1.1) ^1/2 × MWf
However, DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weave density (main / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weave density (main / 2.54 cm).   The lightweight fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the tear strength in the warp direction and the weft direction of the fabric is 7N or more. The lightweight fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the air permeability of the fabric is 10 cc / cm ² · sec or less. Water pressure resistance of the fabric is 200 mm ₂ O or more, lightweight fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9. The lightweight fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the water-repellent rolling angle of the fabric is 25 degrees or less.
However, the water-repellent rolling angle is defined as when 0.2 cc of water is gently dropped onto a flat sample to be measured mounted on a horizontal plate, and the flat plate is gently tilted at a constant speed so that the water droplets begin to roll. Is an angle.   The clothing which uses the lightweight fabric in any one of Claims 1-11.