JP2010091390A - Method for determining pigment paste mixture composition - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for executing simply color matching for keeping the same color as makeup cosmetics. <P>SOLUTION: When determining a composition to original cosmetics for performing color matching of at least one pigment or new cosmetics having a different pigment paste to the original cosmetics, an optical spectrum (called as a target optical spectrum) of a pigment paste mixture in the original cosmetics, and an optical spectrum (hereafter called as a toning start optical spectrum) of a toning pigment paste mixture acquired by blending a pigment or a pigment paste used for new cosmetics based on a composition of an original pigment paste mixture are measured, and when a difference therefrom exceeds a prescribed range, an optical spectrum (hereafter called as a pigment paste optical spectrum) of the pigment or the pigment paste used for the new cosmetics is measured, and the composition of the pigment paste mixture having the target optical spectrum is calculated based on the target optical spectrum, and the pigment paste optical spectrum. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2010,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a method for color-matching cosmetics by preparing a pigment paste to be blended.

  For makeup cosmetics such as lipsticks, color is an important product performance. In many cases, a consumer looks at a sample or sample and specifies the color to purchase by a number or symbol. Therefore, the cosmetics of products with the same numbers and symbols are required to be maintained in the same color.

  Therefore, conventionally, in order to maintain the color of the cosmetics within a predetermined range, a sampling inspection is performed, and a comparison between the inspection product and the limit sample is made with the naked eye, and color measurement is performed using various measuring instruments.

  Normally, no abnormalities are observed in the sampling inspection.However, if abnormalities are observed due to changes in the bulk lot of raw materials or changes in product numbers, etc. An operation of re-determining a new composition by repeating the color until the cosmetic becomes a target color is performed. Therefore, it may be necessary to suspend production of the product for several hours to several days until a new formulation composition is determined.

  On the other hand, as seen in Patent Document 1 and the like, CCM (Computer Color Matching) for obtaining a ratio of each component from the color of each component as a raw material and a target color is attempted by an electronic computer.

  CCM is a method for obtaining the blending ratio of each component for generating a target color from simultaneous colors using the color of each component as a raw material and the target color, and certain results have been given for paints and inks.

JP 2001-258640 A

  However, in makeup cosmetics such as lipsticks, when color matching is performed using CCM in order to prevent color blurring, for example, when the lot or product number of the pigment paste is changed, a subtle difference in color gloss is also a problem. Therefore, not only color materials such as pigments but also all raw material components including oils and waxes are taken individually, and color measurement data is also taken for actual makeup cosmetic products, and these are taken as colorimetric data. A lot of time is spent on the basis of color matching.

  In addition, even if the product can be color-matched, if it is actually applied to the skin, the color development at that time may be different. In this case, it is necessary to repeat trial and error again. . Therefore, there has been a demand for a new method that can perform color matching more easily.

  The present invention provides a new color matching technique that makes it possible to more easily perform color matching for maintaining the same color as a makeup cosmetic product, and makes it difficult for color differences to occur when actually applied. The purpose is to do.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention is a method for determining a composition for color-matching an original cosmetic with a new cosmetic different in at least one pigment or pigment paste from the original cosmetic,
Measure the optical spectrum (hereinafter referred to as the target optical spectrum) of a pigment paste mixture prepared from multiple types of pigments or pigment pastes used in raw cosmetics,
A pigment or pigment paste used in a new cosmetic is prepared based on the composition of the original pigment paste mixture to obtain a toning pigment paste mixture, and the optical spectrum of the toning pigment paste mixture (hereinafter referred to as the toning start optical spectrum) Measure)
When the difference between the toning start optical spectrum and the target optical spectrum is within a predetermined range, the composition of the toning pigment paste mixture is set as the composition of a new cosmetic pigment paste mixture,
When the difference between the toning start optical spectrum and the target optical spectrum exceeds a predetermined range, the optical spectrum of each pigment or pigment paste used in the new cosmetic (hereinafter referred to as pigment paste optical spectrum) is measured, Based on the target optical spectrum and each pigment paste optical spectrum, the composition of the toning pigment paste mixture is calculated so that the toning pigment paste mixture has the target optical spectrum, and the composition of the obtained toning pigment paste mixture is calculated. A method for preparing a composition of a pigment paste mixture with a new cosmetic is provided.

  According to the present invention, the color of the cosmetic material itself and the color when the cosmetic material is applied to the skin, etc. are kept the same by a simple method regardless of changes in the bulk lot or product number of the pigment component that is the raw material. can do.

  Hereinafter, the embodiment of the present invention will be specifically described by taking as an example the case of adjusting the color of the lipstick.

  As shown in FIG. 1, the lipstick shown in this example is a pigment paste mixture obtained by mixing a plurality of pigment pastes (pigment paste 1, pigment paste 2,..., Pigment paste 6) as pigment oil dispersions with a mixer. The pigment paste mixture, and oil and pearl agent added as necessary are added to the heated and melted wax, poured into a mold and cooled. Here, as each pigment paste, a pigment and oil dispersed in advance by a premixer are used.

  FIG. 2 shows a lipstick that exhibits a target color, and when a lipstick using a pigment paste as a coloring material exists as an original product, a new lipstick in which at least one pigment paste is different from the lipstick that is the original product, It is a flowchart of the determination method of a compounding composition in the case of manufacturing by color-matching with an original product by the method of this invention.

  The target color for the initial product design of this lipstick is the color of the lipstick itself and the color actually extended by applying the lipstick to the artificial skin by repeatedly preparing a prototype with the composition of the pigment paste and other components changed as appropriate. Determine specific colors by examining them.

  For this target color, it is preferable to prepare a limit sample or to measure and record Lab or the like so as to obtain a color difference ΔE from a subsequent product.

  In addition, in order to maintain the color identity of the product by the method of the present invention, separately from the optical spectrum of the product, the optical spectrum of the pigment paste mixture (target optical spectrum) when the target color is obtained is measured in advance. Keep it.

  That is, first, the pigment paste when the target color is obtained (that is, the pigment paste 1, the pigment paste 2,..., The pigment paste 6) is the composition when the target color is obtained (hereinafter referred to as the original pigment paste mixture composition). (Hereinafter referred to as “pigment paste mixture”). In this case, each pigment paste is in the same lot as when the target color was obtained. Further, this pigment paste mixture does not contain a wax that is not a component of the pigment paste mixture.

  In the preparation of the pigment paste mixture, the pigment paste may be mixed manually using a glass plate or a mortar so that the pigment is uniformly dispersed. However, since it takes time, it takes 60 seconds or more with a planetary stirring mixer. It is preferable to knead.

  Next, an optical spectrum of the obtained pigment paste mixture is measured, and the measurement result is set as a target optical spectrum. More specifically, for example, the pigment paste mixture is put in a predetermined column and measured with a spectrometer, and the reflectance (Ref) and the absorption rate (Abs) at each wavelength are 350 nm to 700 nm at a total of 36 wavelengths every 10 nm. measure. A set of 72 numerical values obtained in this way is set as a target optical spectrum. The target optical spectrum is a vector quantity having a 36 × 2 dimensional array.

  When continuing to manufacture lipstick, if all the pigment pastes (pigment paste 1, pigment paste 2,..., Pigment paste 6) are obtained from the same lot (production lot) as the original lot, According to the composition of Therefore, whether the product is in the target color range is verified by sampling. In the sampling inspection, it is preferable to measure a color difference (ΔE) or the like.

  Abnormality does not usually appear in the sampling inspection, but a large deviation may occur for some reason even in the same bulk. Also, abnormalities may occur when the bulk lot of any pigment paste is changed or the product number is changed.

  As an example, it is assumed that there is a change in the bulk lot of the pigment paste 2, and the pigment paste 2 is changed to the pigment paste 2 '. The blending composition at the start of toning of the new lipstick after the bulk change is determined based on the original lipstick composition, and first, the pigment paste 2 is replaced with the pigment paste 2 'in the original lipstick composition. And Then, in order to examine the identity between the new lipstick color and the original lipstick color in this composition, the pigment paste 1, the pigment paste 2 ′,. A mixed toning pigment paste mixture is prepared. At this stage, it is not necessary to add a wax other than the pigment paste to prepare the lipstick.

  Next, the optical spectrum of the prepared toning pigment paste mixture is measured in the same manner as when the optical spectrum of the pigment paste mixture is measured. Specifically, the toning pigment paste mixture is measured for reflectance (Ref) and absorption rate (Abs) at a total of 36 wavelengths every 10 nm from 350 nm to 700 nm to obtain a toning start optical spectrum.

  Then, the toning start optical spectrum and the target optical spectrum are compared, and if the color difference is within ΔE1.0, preferably within 0.5, they are substantially the same and the toning is unnecessary. . Therefore, the composition of the pigment paste in the toning pigment paste mixture is maintained as a new lipstick pigment paste composition.

  If the difference between the toning start optical spectrum and the target optical spectrum data exceeds the above range, it cannot be said that they substantially match. Therefore, the optical spectrum of each pigment paste used for the preparation of the toning pigment paste mixture was measured in the same manner as when the optical spectrum of the pigment paste mixture was measured to obtain the pigment paste optical spectrum, and the target optical spectrum data and the pigment paste were obtained. Based on the optical spectrum, the blending composition of each pigment paste is calculated so that the optical spectrum of the toning pigment paste mixture becomes the target optical spectrum, and the composition of the obtained pigment paste mixture is changed to the pigment paste mixture in a new lipstick. The composition of a new lipstick is determined. In this new lipstick composition, the pigment paste mixture (total amount of each pigment paste), and the blending ratio of oil, pearl agent and wax added as needed are maintained as the original lipstick.

  A lipstick is prepared with the composition thus determined, and whether or not the color of the lipstick is a target color is checked, and it is confirmed that the color difference (ΔE) is 1.0 or less.

  As described above, according to this method, when the bulk lot of the pigment paste 2 is changed or the product number is changed, the pigment paste 2 ′ after the change is not used to manufacture the lipstick. Since color matching is performed at the stage of the pigment paste mixture, color matching can be easily performed. In addition, the ingredients of the original cosmetic are used as they are for the raw material components other than the pigment paste 2 ', and the composition of the ingredients other than the pigment paste is not changed from that of the original cosmetic. Therefore, it is easy to adjust each raw material on the production line, and the coloring state when the lipstick is actually applied to the lips is the same as that of the original lipstick.

  If the individual pigment paste used in the production of the raw cosmetic contains a wax in addition to the pigment and oil, it is a pigment paste mixture that also contains the wax derived from the pigment paste. Color matching with the charge.

  In addition, in the production process of raw cosmetics, when a pigment paste mixture is obtained by mixing a plurality of types of pigments and oil, or by adding wax if necessary, without mixing a plurality of types of pigment pastes For the pigment paste mixture thus obtained, the original cosmetic and the new cosmetic are color-matched.

  Cosmetics to which the method of the present invention is applied include makeup cosmetics in which colors such as foundation, teak, and eye shadow are important product performances in addition to lipstick.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described based on examples.

  By kneading the raw material components in Table 1 with the blending composition based on the toning standard in Table 2, a lipstick exhibiting the target color was obtained.

  Next, a pigment paste mixture was prepared by mixing Pigment Paste 1 to Pigment Paste 6 prepared by changing only the bulk of the pigment used in Pigment Paste 1 from Bulk a to Bulk b (Tone 1). The color difference between this pigment paste mixture and the lipstick pigment paste mixture used as the toning standard was measured and found to be 2.92. Further, the appearance color of the pigment paste mixture was evaluated by visual observation according to the following criteria, and was evaluated as “x”.

That is, when the four lipstick toning engineers evaluated each of the following four levels, the most numerous evaluation levels were used as the evaluation results.
◎: Difference from tonal reference lipstick cannot be discriminated ○: Difference from tonal reference lipstick is recognized, but color tone is not different and acceptable △: Tonal difference from lipstick standard Is rejected ×; obviously different color

  Next, reflection at every 10 nm at a wavelength of 350 to 700 nm for each of the optical spectrum (target optical spectrum) of the lipstick pigment paste mixture as the toning standard and the optical spectrum (pigment paste optical spectrum) of the pigment paste of Toning 1 The ratio (Ref) and the absorption rate (Abs) are measured with a spectrocolorimeter, and based on those measured values, the composition of the pigment paste for calculating the target optical spectrum by mixing each pigment paste is calculated, The blending ratio of each pigment paste in the blending composition was Toning 2.

  The color difference between the pigment paste mixture of Toning 2 and the lipstick pigment paste mixture as a toning standard was measured and found to be 0.61, and the visual appearance color was also evaluated as “」 ”.

  Therefore, except that the composition of the pigment paste is the Toning 2 pigment paste composition, a lipstick of Toning 2 is produced in the same manner as the lipstick used as the toning standard, The color difference of was measured to be 0.79. Moreover, when the appearance color of each lipstick product and the application color when each lipstick was applied to the lips were evaluated according to the same criteria as described above, both were evaluated as “◎”.

  As described above, according to the method of the present invention, it is possible to produce a lipstick having the same appearance color and coating color by adjusting the composition of the pigment paste without changing the composition of oil, wax and pearl. it can.

  INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The present invention is useful as a technique for producing makeup cosmetic colors such as lipstick, foundation, teak, and eye shadow while maintaining the same color.

It is a flowchart of the manufacturing method of a lipstick. It is a flowchart of the determination method of a composition.

Claims (3)

A method for determining a composition for color-matching a new cosmetic with different at least one pigment or pigment paste to the original cosmetic,
Measure the optical spectrum (hereinafter referred to as the target optical spectrum) of a pigment paste mixture prepared from multiple types of pigments or pigments used in raw cosmetics,
A pigment or pigment paste used in a new cosmetic is prepared based on the composition of the original pigment paste mixture to obtain a toning pigment paste mixture, and the optical spectrum of the toning pigment paste mixture (hereinafter referred to as the toning start optical spectrum) Measure)
When the difference between the toning start optical spectrum and the target optical spectrum is within a predetermined range, the composition of the toning pigment paste mixture is set as the composition of a new cosmetic pigment paste mixture,
When the difference between the toning start optical spectrum and the target optical spectrum exceeds a predetermined range, the optical spectrum of each pigment or pigment paste used in the new cosmetic (hereinafter referred to as pigment paste optical spectrum) is measured, Based on the target optical spectrum and each pigment paste optical spectrum, the composition of the toning pigment paste mixture is calculated so that the toning pigment paste mixture has the target optical spectrum, and the composition of the obtained toning pigment paste mixture is calculated. A method of making a composition of a pigment paste mixture with a new cosmetic.   The method according to claim 1, wherein the pigment paste is an oil dispersion of pigment.   The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the pigment paste is obtained by kneading pigment and oil with a planetary stirring mixer.

Images