JP2009226086A - Method for evaluating softened degree of hair and its treatment method - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for evaluating the softened degree of hair and its treatment method, where the softened degree of hair is objectively and reliably determined without relying on the technique of a skilled practitioner. <P>SOLUTION: The softened degree of hair is evaluated from the information of the ratio of hair diameter measured in substantially non-pressured conditions to that measured in pressured conditions. The method of removing the hair treatment agent containing a reducing agent from the hair after the treatment is that if the ratio of hair diameter measured in substantially non-pressured conditions to that measured in pressured conditions is in the range of a prescribed value, the treatment is regarded as complete and the hair treatment agent is removed from the hair. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2010,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a technique for determining a desired softened state of hair when the hair is reduced with a first agent in a permanent treatment or the like.

  For example, in the permanent treatment (wave treatment), a first agent containing a reducing agent is applied to the hair, the disulfide bond of the hair is cut to soften the hair (hereinafter referred to as softening), and then washed with water. Arrange hair shape. And the 2nd agent containing an oxidizing agent is apply | coated to hair, and the shape of the hair prepared by fixing the disulfide of hair is fixed. The same process is performed in the curly hair straightening process (straight process).

In these treatments, in order to obtain a preferable hair shape (hairstyle), it is important to determine an optimum softened state of the hair. At this time, if the judgment is mistaken and the first agent is applied to the hair without being washed for a long time without washing with water for a long time, the hair may become too soft and may cause significant damage to the hair when treated with the second agent. There is. At this time, it is also known that the degree of softening and the speed of softening differ depending on the original damage degree, hair quality, or type of the first agent used. It is said that the higher the degree, the faster the hair softening speed.
At present, the optimum softening state of hair is determined by skilled techniques of practitioners who are familiar with these circumstances.

Therefore, it is desirable that an inexperienced practitioner can determine an optimum softening state of hair by using any technique without relying on the skill of the practitioner. This also makes it possible to perform treatments such as permanent processing more accurately.
However, even if the Japanese patent application data was examined, there were hardly any examples of such examinations, and only the following examples were found.

That is, a measuring instrument that measures the expansion and contraction of hair using the repulsive force of an elastic body has been proposed. However, in this proposal, it is stated that the length of hair growth is expressed as a numerical value, and that value is used as a guideline for hair softening and damage state, but there is no further explanation and how it is specifically determined. There is no description about whether to do it (refer patent document 1). For this reason, it is difficult to make a concrete evaluation of the significance as a determination means such as the degree of softening.
JP 2003-126065 A

  The problem to be solved by the present invention is that the determination of the degree of softening of hair depends on the skill of the practitioner and there is no objective and reliable determination method.

  That is, an object of the present invention is to provide a method for evaluating the degree of softness of hair and a method for treating hair that can objectively and reliably determine the degree of softening of hair without depending on the skill of the practitioner.

  The method for evaluating the degree of softening of hair according to the present invention is characterized in that evaluation is performed based on information on a hair diameter obtained by measuring hair in a pressurized state.

  In addition, the method for evaluating the softness of hair according to the present invention preferably further adds information on the diameter of the hair obtained by measuring the same part of the hair measured in a pressurized state in a substantially non-pressurized state. It is characterized by evaluating.

  In addition, the method for evaluating the degree of softening of hair according to the present invention is preferably information on the ratio of the hair diameter dimension obtained by measurement in a substantially non-pressurized state to the hair diameter dimension obtained by measurement in a pressurized state. It is characterized by evaluating based on.

  In addition, the method for evaluating the degree of softening of hair according to the present invention is preferably characterized by evaluating the degree of softening of hair when it is treated with a hair treatment agent containing a reducing agent.

  In addition, the method for evaluating the degree of softening of hair according to the present invention is preferably characterized in that the hair diameter is measured using a fine dimension measuring instrument equipped with a pressure measurement / adjustment mechanism.

Further, the hair treatment method according to the present invention is a hair treatment method for removing the hair treatment agent from the hair after treatment with a hair treatment agent containing a reducing agent.
Using the hair softening degree evaluation method described above, the ratio of the hair diameter obtained by measuring in a substantially non-pressurized state to the hair diameter obtained by measuring in a pressurized state falls within a predetermined numerical range. At this point, it is judged that the treatment with the hair treatment agent containing the reducing agent is completed, and the hair treatment agent is removed from the hair.

  The hair treatment method according to the present invention is preferably characterized in that the predetermined numerical range is set according to the degree of damage to the hair to be treated, the type of the hair treatment agent, or the hair quality.

Since the method for evaluating the softness of hair according to the present invention is evaluated based on information on the hair diameter obtained by measuring the hair under pressure, the softness of the hair depends on the skill of the practitioner. It can be judged objectively and reliably.
In addition, the hair treatment method according to the present invention uses the hair softening degree evaluation method described above, and the hair diameter obtained by measuring in a substantially non-pressurized state with respect to the hair diameter obtained by measuring in a pressurized state. When the ratio of dimensions falls within the specified numerical range, it is judged that the treatment with the hair treatment agent containing the reducing agent is completed, and the hair treatment agent is removed from the hair. The effect of the method can be suitably obtained, and the treatment with the hair treatment agent can be appropriately performed.

  Embodiments of the present invention will be described below.

  As a result of earnestly examining the method for evaluating the degree of softening of the hair that enables objective and reliable judgment without depending on the skill of the practitioner, the present inventors have measured the hair under pressure. The present inventors have found that the hair diameter information obtained in this way can be used as an indicator of the degree of softening, and have reached the present invention.

Using a micrometer (PEACOCK Model G manufactured by Ozaki Mfg. Co., Ltd.), a micro-dimension measuring instrument equipped with a force measurement / adjustment mechanism, when treated with the first permanent solution (hair treatment containing a reducing agent) An example of the dimensional change of the hair diameter (here, the diameter) is shown in FIG. Here, the number of repetitions of the experiment is N = 3, and the non-pressurized condition at the time of dimension measurement is substantially non-pressurized with a contact pressure (pressurizing force) on the hair of 0.01 kg / cm ² G (gauge pressure). The pressure state condition is when the contact pressure (pressing force) is pressurized at 2.5 kg / cm ² G (gauge pressure). The dimension measurement under the non-pressurized condition and the pressurized condition was performed on the same portion (part) of the hair.
In the present embodiment, the substantially non-pressurized condition means that the contact pressure on the hair is 0.02 kg / cm ² G or less. Further, the contact pressure (pressurizing force) under the pressurized condition is not particularly limited, but is data on changes in hair diameter due to the difference in contact pressure shown in FIG. 8 (data of 2.5 kg / cm ² G). As is clear from the above, the data of 3.0 kg / cm ² G are completely overlapped), and 2.5 kg / cm ² G (gauge pressure) is sufficient to obtain the effect of the present invention.

As can be seen from FIG.
(1) After treatment with the first agent of the permanent liquid, the hair diameter size under the non-pressurized state condition is once larger than the hair diameter size before the start of treatment, and finally before the start of treatment. Slightly smaller than the diameter of the hair.
This phenomenon is thought to be due to the fact that the hair swells in the radial direction immediately after treatment with the first permanent solution, and then the hair swells in the length direction and contracts in the radial direction. is not. In any case, the softening phenomenon of hair is considered to be due to the fact that the degree of softening (softening degree) of hair increases monotonically with the passage of time after treatment with the first agent of permanent solution, and the amount of change in the hair diameter dimension with time is From the viewpoint of being too small, it is not appropriate to use at least the hair diameter dimension or the change under these conditions as an indicator of the degree of softening.

(2) The hair diameter dimension under the pressurized condition is almost monotonically smaller from the hair diameter dimension before the treatment start with the passage of time after the treatment with the first agent of the permanent solution, It is about 23% smaller than the hair diameter before the start of treatment.
This phenomenon coincides with an assumed mechanism in which the hair is softened and has elasticity, so that the diameter of the hair when measured by pressurization contracts and becomes smaller. In addition, the phenomenon that the hair diameter dimension decreases substantially monotonically with the passage of time after the treatment starts corresponds to the above-described hair softening mechanism. Further, the amount of change with time of the hair diameter dimension is sufficiently larger than at least the hair diameter dimension under the non-pressurized condition.

Based on the above findings, the method for evaluating the degree of softening of hair according to the first example of the present embodiment evaluates based on the information on the hair diameter obtained by measuring the hair in a pressurized state.
Correlation (or regression relationship) data of the hair diameter size obtained by measuring this hair under pressure and the softness evaluation (sensory evaluation) obtained by touching the hair with the skill of the practitioner is obtained in advance. Thus, it is possible to objectively and reliably determine the degree of softening of the hair without depending on the skill of the practitioner based on the information on the diameter of the hair.
Here, from FIG. 1, without using such an evaluation index, the elapsed time is used as an index, that is, it is determined that the degree of softening has become appropriate after a predetermined time has elapsed after processing with the first permanent liquid agent. However, as explained earlier, the degree of softening and the speed of softening vary greatly depending on the original damage level of hair, the quality of the hair, and the type of first agent used. It is clear that this is not possible, and it is the actual situation that a practitioner who has skilled skills does not judge the degree of softening based only on the passage of time.
In addition, although the softening degree evaluation method of the hair which concerns on the 1st example of this Embodiment can be used suitably when evaluating the softening degree of the hair when processing with the hair processing agent containing a reducing agent. Needless to say, the present invention is not limited to this, and can be used, for example, when evaluating indices and characteristics correlating with the degree of softening such as the degree of hair damage and wave efficiency.

Examining FIG. 1 in more detail, the hair diameter under the pressurized condition tends to be monotonously decreasing macroscopically, but the treatment is continued for 15 minutes after the treatment with the first permanent liquid. It is almost the same as the hair diameter before the start, and temporarily, a tendency to become larger than the hair diameter before the start of treatment is also seen.
This phenomenon can be considered as not corresponding to the softening mechanism of hair. Alternatively, this phenomenon can be considered to be caused by the same cause as the change with time of the hair diameter under the non-pressurized condition.
Therefore, in addition to the information on the hair diameter obtained by measuring the same portion of the hair measured in the pressurized state in a substantially non-pressurized state, for example, the hair diameter obtained by measuring in the pressurized state Looking at the change over time in the hair diameter dimension bias (difference in numerical values) obtained by measuring in a substantially non-pressurized state, the hair diameter dimension bias increased monotonically over time, and this composite index It can be seen that the use is significant as a method for evaluating the degree of softening.

Based on the above knowledge, the hair softening degree evaluation method according to the second example of the present embodiment uses the hair diameter measurement information obtained by measuring the hair in a pressurized state to measure the hair in the pressurized state. In addition, information on the hair diameter obtained by measuring the same portion in a substantially non-pressurized state is further evaluated.
Thereby, the softening degree evaluation of hair can be performed more objectively and reliably.

  Next, the hair softening evaluation method according to the third example of the present embodiment is a hair diameter obtained by measuring in a substantially non-pressurized state with respect to the hair diameter obtained by measuring in a pressurized state. Evaluation is based on information on the ratio of dimensions. Specifically, {(hair diameter size obtained by measuring in a substantially non-pressurized state) − (hair diameter size obtained by measuring in a pressurized state)} / (obtained by measuring in a pressurized state) Hair diameter dimension) × 100 is evaluated as a softness index (unit:%).

The softening index is obtained from the data of FIG. 1, and the change of the value over time is shown in FIG.
According to FIG. 2, the value of the softening degree index is a beautiful monotonically increasing curve, although it is a curve having an inflection point with time. Therefore, it turns out that it is significant as an evaluation method of a softening degree.

Next, the hair softening degree evaluation method according to the fourth example of the present embodiment measures the hair diameter using a fine dimension measuring instrument equipped with a pressure measurement / adjustment mechanism.
Since such a fine dimension measuring instrument is widely marketed as a micrometer, a caliper, a thickness caliper or the like, it can be easily obtained and the hair diameter dimension of the present embodiment can be measured easily and accurately.

Next, a hair treatment method according to a fifth example of the present embodiment relates to the hair treatment method in which the hair treatment agent is removed from the hair after being treated with the hair treatment agent containing the reducing agent. The ratio of the hair diameter obtained by measuring in a substantially non-pressurized state to the hair diameter obtained by measuring in a pressurized state using a method for evaluating the softness of hair (the value of the softening index) is predetermined. When entering the numerical range, it is judged that the treatment with the hair treating agent containing the reducing agent is completed, and the hair treating agent is removed from the hair.
Here, the hair treatment agent containing a reducing agent is a first part of a quasi-drug permanent wave agent or a first part of a quasi-drug curly hair straightener, or a chemical class wave agent or curling. Agent or straightener.
After removing the hair treatment agent from the hair, for example, by washing with water, an appropriate treatment according to the treatment (prescription) purpose is performed.

  The softening degree index is obtained by obtaining correlation data (or regression relation data) with the evaluation (sensory evaluation) of the softening degree obtained by touching the hair with the skill of the practitioner in advance. The value in can be determined.

Here, the degree of hair damage and hair shape (straight or curl) before treatment of the subject undergoing hair treatment are the values of the hair diameter value, the hair diameter change over time, the softness index value, and the softness index value. Examine the effect on aging.
The data shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 described above are obtained when hair treatment was performed on a straight hair test subject judged by a practitioner having skill in the art that hair was not damaged. In this case, a practitioner who has a skilled technique has determined that the degree of softening when touching the hair is determined to be appropriate between about 20 minutes and 30 minutes after the start of treatment. According to this, the value of the softening index is in the range of approximately 10-15%.

On the other hand, FIG. 3 and FIG. 4 show the hair under the same treatment conditions as those in FIG. 1 and FIG. 2 to the curly hair subject judged by a practitioner having skill in the art that the hair is not damaged. This is when processing is performed. In this case, since the hair of the subject is curly hair, it can be said that the hair is actually damaged compared to the subject of straight hair.
The time-dependent changes in the hair diameter obtained by measurement in a substantially non-pressed state, the time-dependent changes in the hair diameter obtained by measuring in the pressurized state, and the time-dependent change in the value of the softness index are shown in the figure. A tendency similar to that of FIG. 1 and FIG. 2 is shown. However, the specific numerical values obtained in the same elapsed time are different from those in FIGS. 1 and 2, and a practitioner having a skillful technique determined that the softening degree was appropriate when viewed from the softening degree index. The value of the softness index at the time is in the range of 15 to 20%, and is shifted to a value larger by 0.05 than in the case of FIG.
Next, FIGS. 5 and 6 are obtained when a curly hair subject who clearly shows that the hair is damaged is subjected to hair treatment under the same treatment conditions as in FIGS. 1 and 2. is there.
The changes over time in the hair diameter obtained by measurement in a substantially non-pressurized state, the changes over time in the hair diameter obtained by measurement in the pressurized state, and the change over time in the softening index are both macroscopic. Shows the same tendency as in FIG. 1 and FIG. However, the point that these values change greatly in a short time is significantly different from FIGS. 1 and 2 and also different from FIGS. 3 and 4. When looking at the softening degree index, the value of the softening degree index when the practitioner having a skilled technique judges that the softening degree is appropriate is in the range of 15 to 20%, as in FIG. It is shifted to a value larger by 0.05 than in the case of FIG.

Therefore, the predetermined numerical range of the softness index in the hair treatment method according to the fifth example of the present embodiment is, for example, 10 to 20% in consideration of the shift of the numerical value due to the difference in the hair state described above. Can do.
Furthermore, at this time, if the predetermined numerical range is set to an appropriate different range according to the degree of damage to the hair to be treated, the type of hair treatment agent, or the hair quality, an appropriate softening degree corresponding to a different softening tendency depending on these conditions. Can be evaluated. Thereby, the treatment with the hair treatment agent can be performed more appropriately.

(Verification of validity of softness index: consistency with evaluation by practitioner)
When the same practitioner performs the treatment with the hair treatment agent containing the reducing agent on the same conditions for 37 subjects, and the softening index value falls within the range of 10 to 20%, washing with water, etc. The post-treatment was performed, and the wave treatment or the hair straightening treatment was performed.
At this time, when the value of the softening degree index falls within the range of 10 to 20%, the result of the determination by the practitioner is that “softening degree is appropriate” for 28 persons, and “softening degree is almost appropriate. "Is for 9 people, and there is no" softening degree is not appropriate ".

(Verification of the effectiveness of the softness index 1: Finishing satisfaction)
In the above hair treatment, each subject evaluated the degree of satisfaction of the finished state. As a result, “as desired” was 29 people, “almost as desired” was 6 people, “slightly different” was 2 people, “Different” was 0 people.

(Verification of effectiveness of softness index part 2: Satisfaction of finish in cases with different hair damage levels)
The results of the verification test for the validity of the softness index are stratified according to the degree of hair damage determined by the practitioner. Three subjects with a large degree of hair damage, 19 subjects with a degree of hair damage and Each subject evaluated the degree of satisfaction of the finish state of the permanent treatment for each of 15 subjects with small hair damage. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Verification of effectiveness of softness index Part 3: Satisfaction of finishing in different cases of hair treatment)
The results of the verification test of the softness index validity are stratified in the case of hair treatment, that is, wave treatment and curly hair treatment, and finished for 16 wave treatment subjects and 21 hair treatment subjects, respectively. Table 2 shows the results of each subject's evaluation of the degree of satisfaction with the state.

(Verification of the effectiveness of the softness index Part 4: Wave efficiency)
The relationship between the softness index value and wave efficiency was investigated. The examination conditions are as follows.
<Preparation of hair sample>
Healthy hair sample: A sample of 20 hair bundles Damaged hair sample: A healthy hair sample was treated as follows to obtain a damaged hair sample
Cream Lightner: 2nd hair dyeing agent (hydrogen peroxide 6%) = 1: 1
35 ° C, left for 30 minutes, washed with water, dried <Wave efficiency measurement>
The following permanent wave agents were used.
First agent: ammonium thioglycolate 6.5%, pH 9
Second agent: Sodium bromate 6.5%, pH6
Measurement was performed by the Kilby method according to the following procedure using the above-described permanent wave agent.
(1) After setting the hair on the jig, apply about 1 ml of the first agent.
(2) The softness index is measured at the same time as the application, and promptly when the softness index values (0.95, 0.90, 0.85, 0.80, 0.75, 0.70) are reached. After washing the hair with running water, apply the second agent to the hair.
(3) Allow the second agent to act for 15 minutes, then wash the hair with running water and measure the wave efficiency. The wave efficiency is a value obtained by the Kilby method.
FIG. 7 shows the relationship between the obtained softness index value and the wave efficiency.

It is a figure which shows an example of a time-dependent change of the hair diameter dimension when the test subject of straight hair is processed with the 1st permanent liquid. It is a figure which shows the time-dependent change of the value of the softening degree parameter | index calculated | required from the data of FIG. It is a figure which shows an example of a time-dependent change of the hair diameter dimension when treating the test subject of curly hair judged by the practitioner who has the skill that it is not damaged to hair with the first permanent liquid. It is a figure which shows the time-dependent change of the value of the softening degree parameter | index calculated | required from the data of FIG. It is a figure which shows an example of a time-dependent change of the hair diameter dimension when the test subject of curly hair who understands that the hair is damaged is treated with the first permanent liquid. It is a figure which shows the time-dependent change of the value of the softening degree parameter | index calculated | required from the data of FIG. It is a figure which shows the relationship between the value of a softening degree parameter | index, and wave efficiency. It is a figure which shows the change of the diameter of the hair by the difference in contact pressure.

Claims (7)

  A method for evaluating the degree of softness of hair, comprising evaluating hair based on information on a hair diameter obtained by measuring hair under pressure.   The evaluation of softness of hair according to claim 1, wherein the evaluation is performed by further adding information on the hair diameter obtained by measuring the same portion of the hair measured in a pressurized state in a substantially non-pressurized state. Method.   3. The hair according to claim 2, wherein the evaluation is based on information on a ratio of a hair diameter dimension obtained by measurement in a substantially non-pressurized state to a hair diameter dimension obtained by measurement in a pressurized state. Softening degree evaluation method.   The method for evaluating the degree of softness of hair according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the degree of softening of the hair when treated with a hair treatment agent containing a reducing agent is evaluated.   The method for evaluating the softness of hair according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the hair diameter is measured using a fine dimension measuring instrument equipped with a pressure measurement / adjustment mechanism. In a hair treatment method for removing a hair treatment agent from hair after treatment with a hair treatment agent containing a reducing agent,
The ratio of the hair diameter dimension obtained by measuring in a substantially non-pressurized state to the hair diameter dimension obtained by measuring in a pressurized state using the method for evaluating the softness of hair according to claim 4 is within a predetermined numerical range. A hair treatment method characterized in that, when it enters the hair, it is judged that the treatment with the hair treatment agent containing the reducing agent is completed, and the hair treatment agent is removed from the hair.   7. The hair treatment method according to claim 6, wherein the predetermined numerical range is set according to the degree of damage to the hair to be treated, the type of the hair treatment agent, or the hair quality.

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