JP2009074218A - Stretchable warp knitted fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a stretchable warp knitted fabric of high stretchability and suitable for innerwear and sportswear with good wearing comfortableness, and to provide a method for producing the same. <P>SOLUTION: The stretchable warp knitted fabric knitted from stretchable yarns and non-stretch yarns has island regions having a tightening force different from that of surrounding sea regions, when the fabric is in a tensionless condition, wherein, in the warp direction, each of the island regions includes knit yarns 4 knitted in such a manner that the knitting length of the same stretchable yarn per cm of knitted fabric length 5%-300% differs from that in the sea regions. In making this stretchable warp knitted fabric, each of the stretchable yarns is directly unreeled from a corresponding pirn, and the thus unreeled stretchable yarns are each passed through a yarn tension regulator 2 to vary their knitting tensions longitudinally, thereby conducting a knitting operation while forming an island shaped tightening regions knitted so as to differ in tightening force by the stretchable yarns from that of the surrounding sea regions. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2009,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a stretch warp knitted fabric and a method for producing the same.

  In particular, the present invention relates to a stretch warp knitted fabric suitably used for innerwear such as lingerie and foundation, and sportswear such as active wear and leotard, and a method for producing the same.

  For innerwear such as lingerie and foundation, and sportswear such as active wear and leotard, a stretchable fabric imparted with stretchability by knitting stretchable yarn such as polyurethane elastic yarn is used. As this stretchable fabric, a knitted fabric such as a warp knitted fabric or a circular knitted fabric is generally used.

  Stretch warp knitted fabric is usually used with tricot knitting machine or raschel knitting machine, non-stretching yarn such as nylon yarn, polyester yarn, cotton yarn, polyurethane elastic fiber yarn, polyester composite processed yarn, crimped yarn etc. Knitted with elastic yarn.

  Also, in recent years, especially girdle and shorts wear has partially increased the tension of the thighs and lower groin area to improve the warping of the hem and the fit to the body while wearing, In order to reduce the sense of incongruity, seamlessness has been pursued. For this reason, in stretch warp knitted fabrics used as materials, strong and weak parts are formed in one piece of fabric, and the appearance changes due to the pattern, etc. Is required (Patent Document 1).

  As a method for changing the power of a part of the fabric, a method of increasing the fineness or increasing the number of stretchable yarns at the portion where the power is increased is used. The yarn used from the structure of the warp knitting machine is wound into a multiple yarn in the previous process and aligned with the beam. The beam is stabbed into the shaft, attached to the warp knitting machine and driven to drive the shaft. The multi-threads are unwound and fed to the warp knitting machine.

  Therefore, when making a region with strong power in the width direction of the fabric, increase the fineness of the stretch yarn fed to that part, that is, in the warping process as the previous process, at the appropriate position of the beam Set up so that a thick, fine yarn can be wound. Alternatively, a method is used in which only the necessary number of stretch yarns with a large fineness are wound on another beam, and the beam is pierced into another shaft and fed as another drive shaft of the warp knitting machine.

  However, this method can change the power partially in the width direction of the fabric, that is, a so-called stripe-like power change, but cannot change the power partially in the longitudinal direction of the fabric. .

  In short, in order to change the power partially in the longitudinal direction of the fabric, temporarily change the knitting tension of the stretch yarn during knitting, or connect it with stretch yarns with different fineness and stretch characteristics during the knitting. Need to change. The latter is extremely low feasibility in terms of efficiency when implemented in a mass production process. As for the former, a mechanism for adjusting the knitting tension of the stretchable yarn is required first, but the conventional method is intended to make the tension of all the yarns uniform and always uniform. It is not possible to change the tension or to change the tension of the yarn at a specific position.

Therefore, it is impossible to arbitrarily change the power partially in the longitudinal direction of the fabric, and it is impossible to change the power in an island shape to the desired position in the fabric fabric. there were.
JP 2000-303209 A

  The object of the present invention is to provide an elastic warp knitted fabric suitable for innerwear, sportswear and the like, which is excellent in stretchability and wear comfort, and a method for manufacturing the same, in view of the above points. An object of the present invention is to provide innerwear and sportswear that are excellent in stretchability using the stretchable knitted fabric and have good wearing comfort.

The stretchable knitted fabric of the present invention that achieves the above-described object has the following configuration (1).
(1) An elastic warp knitted fabric knitted from stretchable yarn and non-stretchable yarn, having an island region having a contraction force different from that of the surrounding sea region when the fabric is in a tensionless state, The region includes knitting yarns knitted in the warp direction of the knitted fabric, with the knitting length of the same stretch yarn per centimeter of the knitted fabric having a difference of 5% or more and 300% or less from that of the sea region. A stretch warp knitted fabric characterized in that it is a configured region and there is at least one warp knitted fabric length of 200 cm.

In the stretch warp knitted fabric of the present invention, more preferably, the elastic warp knitted fabric has a specific configuration of any one of the following (2) to (3).
(2) The stretch warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the area of the island region having a contraction force different from that of the surrounding sea region is 1 cm ² or more.
(3) The stretch warp knitted fabric according to claim 2, wherein the island region having an area of 1 cm ² or more is present in an area of 1 to 400 islands / m ^{2 in the} knitted fabric area.

Moreover, the manufacturing method of the stretchable warp knitted fabric of this invention which achieves the objective mentioned above consists of the following structures (4).
(4) When a stretch warp knitted fabric is knitted using stretch yarns and non-stretch yarns, the rolls are directly formed from the wound bodies of the stretch yarns without forming the stretch yarns into a warp beam. The thread is taken up and unwound in the axial direction of the thread body, and the unstretched stretched yarn is passed through a thread tension adjusting device for each stretchable yarn, so that the length of the stretchable yarn is Production of a stretch warp knitted fabric characterized by knitting while forming a tight region where the tightness of the stretch yarn is knitted differently from the surrounding sea region in an island shape. Method.

Moreover, in the manufacturing method of this elastic knitted fabric, More preferably, it has the specific structure of following (5).
(5) The above (4), characterized in that the knitting tension in the length direction of the stretchable yarn is knitted while varying at least 5% to 300% during knitting at least a warp knitted fabric length of 1 cm. The manufacturing method of the elastic warp knitted fabric of description.

Moreover, the sportswear or innerwear of the present invention that achieves the above-described object has any one of the following configurations (6) to (9).
(6) Sportswear characterized by being formed using the elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (3) above.
(7) The above-mentioned (6), wherein the area of the island region having a contraction force different from that of the surrounding sea region is 1 cm ² or more, and the island region is present in 1 to 400 islands / m ² in the knitted fabric area. ) Sportswear as described.
(8) An innerwear formed by using the elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (3) above.
(9) The above-mentioned (6), wherein the area of the island region having a contraction force different from that of the surrounding sea region is 1 cm ² or more, and the island region is present in 1 to 400 islands / m ² in the knitted fabric area. ) Innerwear as described.

  ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, while being excellent in a stretching property, the elastic warp knitted fabric suitable for innerwear, sportswear, etc. with favorable wearing comfort, and its manufacturing method are provided.

  In addition, using the stretch warp knitted fabric of the present invention, there are provided innerwear and sportswear that are excellent in stretchability and have good wearing comfort.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the drawings.

  FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram schematically showing a knitting method of a stretchable warp knitted fabric according to the present invention.

  FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing an example of an existence state of an island region having a contracting force different from that of the surrounding sea region in the stretch warp knitted fabric according to the present invention.

  The stretchable knitted fabric of the present invention is a stretchable warp knitted fabric knitted from stretchable yarns and non-stretchable yarns, and when the fabric is in a non-tensioned state, the island has a contraction force different from that of the surrounding sea region. The island region is knitted with a difference in the knitting length of the same stretch yarn per 1 cm of the knitted fabric length of 5% to 300% in the knitted fabric warp direction with that of the sea region. And at least one region having a warp knitted fabric length of 200 cm.

  In the present invention, the no-tension state refers to a state when the knitted fabric is freely contracted in a standard state for 24 hours or more.

  In the present invention, the island region refers to a region that has a contracting force different from that of the surrounding sea region, and when the knitted fabric is observed with the naked eye, a polygonal shape such as a circle, an ellipse, a triangle, a quadrangle, or the like, It refers to a portion that exhibits an outline shape in which an ellipse and a polygon are combined and can be observed with a different knitted fabric property from its surroundings.

Further, the area of the island region is defined as (A) by dividing the knitted fabric into squares of 1 cm square when the fabric is in an unstrained state, and counting the number of squares inside the island region. Next, for the cells partially exceeding the outer periphery of the island region, the ratio of the portion corresponding to the inner side of the outer periphery of the island region to the first cell is determined by the division amount (for example, 1/2, 1 / 3, 2/3, etc.), a value obtained by multiplying the number of each square by the ratio is obtained for each square, and the sum of the values is (B), where (A) + (B) × 1 cm ² = The area of the island region.

  In the present invention, the term “stretchable yarn” generally refers to a yarn having a property of expanding and contracting, such as a so-called spandex yarn, and a commercially available yarn includes “Lycra” (registered trademark, manufactured by Operontex). ).

  In the present invention, the “non-stretchable yarn” refers to a yarn that does not have stretch properties, and typically includes polyamide fiber, polyester fiber, cotton yarn, and the like.

  The stretch warp knitted fabric according to the present invention has an island region having a contraction force different from that of the surrounding sea region when the fabric is in an unstrained state, and the island region is knitted in the knitted fabric warp direction. The knitted length of the same stretch yarn per 1 cm length is a region knitted with a difference of 5% or more and 300% or less from that of the sea region, and the warp knitted fabric length is 200 cm (in the knitting direction). At least one in a straight line having a length of 200 cm), and as shown in FIG. 2, the surrounding sea region 9 and the island region 10 having a contracting force are different from each other. Both regions give design effects and design effects to the knitted fabric 11 of the present invention.

  In the island region, the knitting length of the same stretch yarn per centimeter of the knitted fabric has a difference of 5% or more and 300% or less from that of the sea region.

The difference in the knitting length of the same stretch yarn is based on the following mathematical formula.
Difference in knitting length (%) = (knitting yarn length in island region / knitting yarn length in sea region) × 100

In the stretch warp knitted fabric of the present invention, preferably, the area of the island region having a contracting force different from that of the surrounding sea region is 1 cm ² or more. The area of the island region, in terms of design effect and design effect, preferably at 1 cm ² or more, since the obscuring their effect as too large, it is preferable to be about 3000 cm ² or less.

  The island region is preferably formed so that the region outline has at least a curve, and can freely exhibit design effects and design effects that cannot be obtained with a straight contour.

  The shape of the island area can be appropriately adopted as shown in FIG. 2, such as a rectangular shape, a polygon, a circle, an ellipse, a crescent, a belt, etc. A pattern, paisley pattern, donut-shaped pattern or the like is preferable.

It is preferable that the island region having an area of 1 cm ² or more exists in an area of 1 to 400 islands / 1 m ² in the knitted fabric area. For example, in relatively small inner uses such as for brassiere, it is preferable that 200 to 400 islands / m ² exist, and in relatively large wear uses such as long tights, 1 to 10 islands / m. ² is preferably present, but is not particularly limited.

  The mixture ratio (weight ratio) of the stretchable yarn and the non-stretchable yarn is preferably stretchable yarn / non-stretchable yarn = 10/90 to 50/50, more preferably stretchable yarn / non-stretchable yarn = 20 / 80-40 / 60.

  The stretch warp knitted fabric of the present invention can be produced by the following method.

  That is, when a stretch warp knitted fabric is knitted using stretch yarns and non-stretch yarns, the wound yarns are directly formed from wound bodies of the stretch yarns without forming the stretch yarns into a warp beam. The yarn is taken up and unwound in the axial direction of the body, and the stretched yarn is passed through a yarn tension adjusting device for each stretch yarn in the length direction of the stretch yarn. A method for producing a stretchable warp knitted fabric, characterized in that knitting is performed while varying the knitting tension and knitting while forming a tight region that is knitted differently from the surrounding sea region by an elastic yarn. It is.

  In this method, more preferably, the knitting tension in the length direction of the stretchable yarn is knitted while varying at least 5% to 300% during knitting at least a warp knitted fabric length of 1 cm.

  This method will be described with reference to FIG. 2. 1 is a wound body of stretchable yarn, 2 is a yarn tension adjusting device, 3 is a guide rod, 4 is a knitting yarn (stretchable yarn), 5 is a knitting needle, 6 is a stitch, 7 Is a trick plate, and 8 is a yarn convergence guide.

  As shown in FIG. 2, the elastic yarn is pulled out from the wound yarn body 1 in the axial direction by a so-called warp removing method, and the stitch loop is controlled by the yarn tension adjusting device 2 while controlling the tension at the time of knitting. 6 is formed and the knitted fabric is knitted. 4 is a knitting yarn of a stretchable yarn whose tension is controlled. For example, when knitting with a large tension, the loop formed by the stretchable yarn has a strong shrinking force, and when knitting with a small tension, the loop The warp knitted fabric has an effect of arbitrarily forming in the knitting direction a place where the shrinking force is weak and the place where the shrinking force is strong and the shrinking force is weak in the fabric.

  Control of the tension at the time of knitting by the yarn tension adjusting device 2 is, as described above, at least a warp knitted fabric length of 1 cm so that there is a difference in the length of the stretchable yarn to be knitted in the knitted fabric. During knitting, knitting is performed with a variation of 5% or more and 300% or less, and a plurality of adjacent stretch yarns in the knitting structure are controlled at the same level so as to form a region. . For example, 20 to 700 knitted adjacently are basically designed so as to receive the same control, and after knitting a desired number of loops according to the pattern, the end of the pattern Alternatively, the thread tension is gradually returned to the same level as the sea area thread from the center.

  The reason why the warp removing method is used instead of the conventional beam feeding method is to allow the yarn to be unwound freely in accordance with the tension. The beam feeding method is not suitable for the present invention because the beam must be actively rotated so that the yarn is fed out.

  In the above description, the “non-tensioned state” means a state where no external force is applied, and when knitted fabric means a state where it is left in a standard temperature / humidity environment for at least 24 hours. In this case, the thread is unwound from the wound body (bobbin) and left in a standard temperature and humidity environment for at least 24 hours.

  When measuring the knitting length of the same stretch yarn, the stretch yarn on the same wale is disassembled from the knitted fabric, and the disassembled disassembled yarn is left in a standard temperature and humidity environment for 24 hours.

  With the knitting structure shown in FIG. 3, a knitted fabric according to the present invention (Example 1) and a knitted fabric not according to the present invention (Comparative Example 1) were prepared.

Example 1 and Comparative Example 1
Both Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were knitted using stretch yarns and non-stretch yarns as knitting yarns as follows. (1) 筬 1 (non-stretch yarn, ground texture): polyamide yarn, 44 dtex (Toray Industries, Inc.) ) Made)
(2) 筬 2 (stretchable yarn, first elastic yarn): spandex yarn “Lycra” (registered trademark) T-127C, 310 dtex (manufactured by Operontex Co., Ltd.)
(3) 筬 3 (stretchable yarn, second elastic yarn): Spandex yarn “Lycra” (registered trademark) T-127C, 44 dtex (manufactured by Operontex Co., Ltd.)

  As for the knitting structure, in both Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, 筬 1 is 23/21/12/10/12/21 /, 筬 2 is 00/11 / × 3, 筬 3 is 00/11/00/33 / 22/33 /.

  In Example 1, the runner had a total of 3600 yarns in the sea and 100 yarns forming the islands.

  筬 1 (non-stretchable yarn, ground texture) is 1100mm / R, 筬 2 (stretchable yarn, first elastic yarn) is 100mm / R at the island portion, 140mm / R at the sea portion, 筬 3 (stretchable yarn, second elastic yarn) ) Was 300 mm / R.

  In addition, after the (650) course was set to 100 mm / R, the island portion was repeatedly switched and knitted so that the (650) course was 140 mm / R (reference: equivalent to a length of 10 cm for a finished fabric).

  In the runner of Comparative Example 1, 筬 1 (non-stretchable yarn, ground texture) and 筬 3 (stretchable yarn, second elastic yarn) are the same as those in Example 1, and 筬 2 (stretchable yarn, first elastic yarn) is No island and sea were the same as in Example 1.

  In Example 1, the density of the sea part was 55 wales / inch and the course was 150 pcs / inch, and the island part was 57 wales / inch and the course was 150 pcs / inch. In Comparative Example 1, the sea part was the same as in Example 1 (the sea part was absent).

  In Example 1, the austerity was 10 CN in the sea and 30 CN in the island, and 9 CN in the comparative example 1 and no island.

  The difference in the braided length was 30% shorter in the island portion than in the sea portion in Example 1, and there was no significant difference in Comparative Example 1.

In Example 1, the area of the island region was 5 cm wide × 10 cm long = 50 cm ² (comparative example 1 was not provided).

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram schematically showing a knitting method of a stretchable warp knitted fabric according to the present invention. FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing an example of an existence state of an island region having a contracting force different from that of the surrounding sea region in the stretch warp knitted fabric according to the present invention. FIG. 3 is a knitting structure diagram of the knitted fabric knitted in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1.

Explanation of symbols

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Winding body of elastic thread 2 Yarn tension adjusting device 3 Guide rod 4 Knitting yarn (expandable thread)
5 Knitting Needle 6 Stitch 7 Trick Plate 8 Yarn Convergence Guide 9 Surrounding Sea Area 10 Island Area 11 with Different Tension Forces Knitted Fabric

Claims (9)

  An elastic warp knitted fabric knitted from stretch yarns and non-stretch yarns, and when the fabric is in a non-tensioned state, has an island region having a contracting force different from the surrounding sea region, The knitting length of the same stretch yarn per 1 cm of the knitted fabric length in the knitted fabric warp direction includes a knitted yarn knitted with a difference of 5% or more and 300% or less from that of the sea region. A stretchable warp knitted fabric characterized in that at least one warp knitted fabric is present at a length of 200 cm. The stretch warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the area of the island region having a contraction force different from that of the surrounding sea region is 1 cm ² or more. The area is an island region is 1 cm ² or more, stretchable warp knitted fabric according to claim 2, wherein the present knitted fabric area in 1-400 Island / m ^2.   When knitting a stretch warp knitted fabric using stretch yarn and non-stretch yarn, without forming the stretch yarn into a warp beam, directly from the wound yarn body of the stretch yarn, The yarn is taken up and unwound in the axial direction, and the unwound stretch yarn is passed through a yarn tension adjusting device for each stretch yarn, and the knitting tension is stretched in the length direction of the stretch yarn. A method for producing a stretchable warp knitted fabric, characterized in that knitting is performed while forming an island-like tightness region that is knitted by varying the tension of the elastic yarn and different from the surrounding sea region.   The stretchability according to claim 4, characterized in that the knitting tension in the length direction of the stretchable yarn is varied by 5% or more and 300% or less during knitting at least a warp knitted fabric length of 1 cm. Manufacturing method of warp knitted fabric.   A sportswear formed by using the elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3. 7. The sport according to claim 6, wherein the area of the island region having a contraction force different from that of the surrounding sea region is 1 cm ² or more, and the island region is present in an area of 1 to 400 islands / m ² in the knitted fabric area. Wear.   The innerwear formed by using the elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3. 7. The inner region according to claim 6, wherein the area of the island region having a contraction force different from that of the surrounding sea region is 1 cm ² or more, and the island region is present in an area of 1 to 400 islands / 1 m ² in the knitted fabric area. Wear.

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