JP2005248401A - Yarn, fabric or textile product and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Yarn, fabric or textile product and method for producing the same Download PDF

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JP2005248401A
JP2005248401A JP2004063314A JP2004063314A JP2005248401A JP 2005248401 A JP2005248401 A JP 2005248401A JP 2004063314 A JP2004063314 A JP 2004063314A JP 2004063314 A JP2004063314 A JP 2004063314A JP 2005248401 A JP2005248401 A JP 2005248401A
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fabric
textile product
particles
yarn
colored
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JP3855201B2 (en
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Hiroo Kubokawa
久保川博夫
Masato Shinohara
篠原正人
Hajime Shinoda
篠田一
Mitsuo Kobayashi
小林光男
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Marunaka Co Ltd
Gunma Prefecture
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Gunma Prefecture
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Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a textile product having a worn-out color, an uneven dyeing color or an iridescent color without damaging a soft and delicate material and to provide a method for producing the same. <P>SOLUTION: Particles of colored natural fibers and a yarn, a fabric or a textile product are ionized as a pair of positive and negative ions in a water bath and the particles are attracted to the yarn, fabric or textile product by Coulomb attractive force and subsequently fixed with a binder. The attracted particles are partially washed off or the yarn, fabric or textile product is subjected to a nonuniform ionization treatment to thereby impart the worn-out or uneven dyeing color expression to the textile product. Furthermore, the colored particles are nonuniformly fixed in the thickness direction of the fabric or textile product. Thereby, the fabric or textile product is made to assume the iridescent color providing an appearance of different colors or three-dimensional colors of definite shadow by a difference in viewing angle. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

本発明は、着色された天然繊維の粒子が固着されていることによって色彩を帯びている繊維製品及びその製造方法に属する。   The present invention belongs to a textile product colored by the colored natural fiber particles fixed thereto and a method for producing the same.

これまで外衣のファッション性を高めるために様々な工夫が行われてきたが、近年では着古し調、むら染め風、玉虫色調などの変わった見え方の色彩が消費者の人気を得ている。着古し調の布帛および製品を得る代表的な方法としては、ストーンウォッシュやサンドウォッシュといった物理的方法により部分的に脱色する方法や、微生物や酵素の働きを利用して色褪せや触感変化を生じさせるバイオウォッシュなどがある。むら染めの方法としては、伝統的な籠染めや細かく折り畳んで袋に詰めて染色する方法などの様々な方法があり、一度糸や布帛を染色した後に薬液で部分的に脱色するような方法も行われている。玉虫色調の布帛を製造する方法としては、特許文献1記載の織物の経糸と緯糸を異なる色に染色する方法や、特許文献2記載の第一染色工程、バイオ処理、脱色工程、第二染色工程等からなる後加工による方法がある。
特開平8−60563 特開平10−280276
Various attempts have been made to enhance the fashionability of outer garments, but in recent years, the appearance of clothes such as old-fashioned, uneven dyeing, and iridescent colors has gained popularity among consumers. Typical methods for obtaining old-fashioned fabrics and products include a method of partially decoloring by physical methods such as stone wash and sand wash, and a bio that causes fading and tactile changes using the action of microorganisms and enzymes. There is a wash. There are various methods for uneven dyeing, such as traditional koji dyeing and the method of finely folding and packing in a bag and dyeing, including dyeing yarn and fabric once and then partially decolorizing with chemicals. Has been done. As a method for producing an iridescent-colored fabric, a method of dyeing warp and weft of a woven fabric described in Patent Document 1 into different colors, a first dyeing process, a bio-treatment, a decoloring process, and a second dyeing process described in Patent Document 2 There is a method by post-processing consisting of, and the like.
JP-A-8-60563 JP-A-10-280276

着古し調の色彩を得るための従来のストーンウォッシュなどの洗い加工は、丈夫なデニム素材等には有効であるが、布帛に物理的ダメージを与えてしまうために柔軟でデリケートな素材に応用することは困難であった。むら染めに関しては、従来の方法では大まかなむら模様になりやすく、一見均一に見えるような微細なむら染め効果を再現性良く得ることが難しかった。玉虫色調の異色効果を得る従来法は、経糸と緯糸を異なる色に染色する方法では織物設計の段階から製品企画に大きな制約を伴い、また、後加工による方法でも多段階の煩雑な工程が必要であった。   Washing process such as traditional stone wash to obtain an old-fashioned color is effective for durable denim materials, etc., but it should be applied to flexible and delicate materials to physically damage the fabric. Was difficult. With regard to uneven dyeing, it has been difficult to obtain a fine uneven dyeing effect with good reproducibility, which is likely to be a rough uneven pattern with the conventional method and looks uniform at first glance. The conventional method of obtaining an iridescent tone effect is different in the method of dyeing warp and weft yarns in different colors, which entails great restrictions on product planning from the stage of fabric design, and requires many complicated steps in the post-processing method. Met.

本発明は、上記の従来の事情に鑑み、柔軟でデリケートな素材に対しても繊維を傷めることなく、着古し調、むら染め風、玉虫色調の色彩や陰影の明瞭な立体的な色彩を得るために、色素で着色された天然繊維の粒子を固着した糸、布帛又は繊維製品とその製造方法を提供することを目的としている。 In view of the above-described conventional circumstances, the present invention is to obtain a three-dimensional color with a clear and shaded tone, shaded tone, iridescent tone, and shading without damaging the fibers even for flexible and delicate materials. Furthermore, it aims at providing the thread | yarn, the fabric, or textiles which fixed the particle | grains of the natural fiber colored with the pigment | dye, and its manufacturing method.

上記目的を達成するために、本発明では従来から用いられている染料や顔料による着色方法とは異なり、色素を吸着した天然繊維の粒子と糸、布帛又は繊維製品を水浴中で正負の対としてイオン化させ、クーロン引力によって粒子を糸、布帛又は繊維製品に吸着させ、続いてバインダーで固着した。また、吸着した粒子を部分的に洗い落としたり、糸、布帛又は繊維製品のイオン化を不均一に処理することによって、繊維製品に着古し調、むら染め風、玉虫色調の色彩や陰影の明瞭な立体的な色彩を与えた。   In order to achieve the above object, in the present invention, unlike conventional coloring methods using dyes and pigments, natural fiber particles adsorbed with dyes and yarns, fabrics or textile products are paired as positive and negative in a water bath. Ions were ionized and the particles were adsorbed onto yarns, fabrics or textiles by Coulomb attraction and subsequently fixed with a binder. In addition, the adsorbed particles are partially washed away, or the ionization of the yarn, fabric, or textile product is processed unevenly, so that the fabric is worn, unevenly dyed, iridescent, and three-dimensional with clear colors and shades. Gave a different color.

天然繊維の粒子としては、麻やケナフなどのセルロース繊維や絹や羊毛などのタンパク質繊維を微粉砕して得られる粒子の他、カニの甲殻などの繊維質であるキチンを処理して得られるキトサンの粒子も用いることができた。天然繊維の粒子径は着古し感やむら染め効果を得るためには適度に大きい方が良いが、大き過ぎると水浴中で沈殿しやすくなり吸着処理の効率が低下する。そのため、粒子径1〜20μm程度の適度に粉砕された粒子を用いた。   Natural fiber particles include cellulosic fibers such as hemp and kenaf, and particles obtained by finely pulverizing protein fibers such as silk and wool, as well as chitosan obtained by treating fiber such as crab shells. Particles could also be used. The particle diameter of the natural fiber is preferably appropriately large in order to obtain an old feeling and uneven dyeing effect, but if it is too large, it tends to precipitate in a water bath and the efficiency of the adsorption treatment decreases. Therefore, moderately pulverized particles having a particle diameter of about 1 to 20 μm were used.

天然繊維の粒子の着色に使用する色素は、粒子の素材の性質、色調、染色堅ろう性などを製品の用途と要求される消費科学的性能とともに検討して、通常の染色に用いられる合成染料および天然色素の中から選択して用いた。天然色素の吸着量を増加させ且つ染色堅ろう性を向上させるためには、必要に応じて色素吸着の前に天然繊維の粒子をカチオン化やアニオン化処理した。また、通常の天然染料による染色と同様に、金属媒染によって色相を変化させたり、染色堅ろう性を向上させることもできた。   The pigments used for coloring natural fiber particles are the synthetic dyes used for normal dyeing, considering the nature of the material of the particles, color tone, dyeing fastness, etc. together with the product's use and required consumption scientific performance. Selected from natural pigments. In order to increase the amount of natural pigment adsorbed and to improve dyeing fastness, the natural fiber particles were cationized or anionized before dye adsorption, if necessary. In addition, as in the case of dyeing with ordinary natural dyes, it was possible to change the hue or improve dyeing fastness by metal mordanting.

着色粒子の布帛や繊維製品への吸着は、水浴中に両者を共存させて撹拌しながら行った。効率良く粒子を繊維又は布帛に吸着させるためには両者の間に引力が必要であり、本発明ではこの引力としてクーロン力を利用した。水中で正負の対としてイオン性を帯びる着色粒子と糸、布帛又は繊維製品を同浴中で撹拌することによって、粒子を繊維間に吸着させた。着色粒子と糸、布帛又は繊維製品がイオン性を有さない場合には、それぞれを反対の電荷を帯びるようにアニオン化又はカチオン化する必要があった。しかし、例えば、絹のように素材自体がイオン性を有する場合には、イオン化処理をしなくても着色粒子の吸着処理を行うこともできた。   The colored particles were adsorbed on the fabric or the textile product while both were present in a water bath with stirring. In order to efficiently adsorb the particles to the fiber or fabric, an attractive force is required between them, and in the present invention, a Coulomb force is used as the attractive force. The particles were adsorbed between the fibers by stirring colored particles and yarns, fabrics or textiles that are ionic in positive and negative pairs in water in the same bath. If the colored particles and the yarn, fabric or fiber product are not ionic, they had to be anionized or cationized so as to have opposite charges. However, for example, when the material itself has ionicity, such as silk, it was possible to perform the adsorption treatment of the colored particles without performing the ionization treatment.

着色粒子を吸着させた布帛又は繊維製品に着古し調、むら染め風、玉虫色調の色彩や陰影の明瞭な立体的な色彩を付与するためには、以下のような手法によって行った。微細なむら状の仕上がりを得るには、布帛や繊維製品のイオン化処理を均一に行い、適度に調整された撹拌状態で着色粒子の吸着を行った。着古し調の色彩を得るためには、バインダーによる固着を行う前の段階で、布帛や繊維製品に吸着した着色粒子を部分的に洗い落とした。模様状のむらを表現するためには、布帛又は繊維製品のイオン化処理を不均一に行って、予めデザインされたパターンを得た。不均一に処理する方法としては、絞り、捺染、スプレーによる吹き付けといった従来の技法を用いることができた。玉虫色調の色彩や陰影の明瞭な立体的な色彩は、着色粒子が吸着されて保持されやすい繊維束内部に高濃度で局在することによって得られた。異なる色の2種類以上の着色粒子を吸着させたり、通常の染色と着色粒子による着色を組み合わせることによって、より効果的に玉虫色調の色彩や陰影の明瞭な立体的な色彩が得られた。   In order to impart a three-dimensional color with a clear, shaded, shaded tone or shade on a fabric or textile product on which colored particles are adsorbed, the following method was used. In order to obtain a fine uneven finish, the ionization treatment of the fabric and the fiber product was performed uniformly, and the colored particles were adsorbed in an appropriately adjusted stirring state. In order to obtain an old-fashioned color, the colored particles adsorbed on the fabric and the textile product were partially washed away before the fixing with the binder. In order to express the pattern unevenness, the ionization treatment of the fabric or the textile product was performed unevenly to obtain a pre-designed pattern. Conventional methods such as squeezing, textile printing, and spraying by spraying could be used as a method for nonuniform treatment. A clear three-dimensional color of iridescent tones and shades was obtained by localizing the colored particles at a high concentration inside the fiber bundle where the colored particles are easily adsorbed and held. By adsorbing two or more kinds of colored particles of different colors or by combining ordinary dyeing and coloring with colored particles, three-dimensional colors with iridescent tones and clear shadows were obtained more effectively.

クーロン引力によって吸着された着色粒子を糸、布帛又は繊維製品上に十分な堅ろう性をもって固着させるためには、バインダーによる処理を行った。バインダー処理は粒子の糸、布帛又は繊維製品への吸着後、又は着古し調やむら染め風の効果を付与する工程後に、バインダーを含有する溶液に浸漬した後に乾燥又は加熱処理して行った。   In order to fix the colored particles adsorbed by the Coulomb attractive force on the yarn, fabric or fiber product with sufficient firmness, a treatment with a binder was performed. The binder treatment was carried out by drying or heat treatment after the particles were adsorbed onto yarns, fabrics or textile products, or after the step of imparting the effect of an aging tone or uneven dyeing, and immersed in a solution containing the binder.

本発明は、以上説明したように構成されているので、以下に記載されるような効果を奏する。 Since the present invention is configured as described above, the following effects can be obtained.

粒子径1〜20μm程度の天然繊維の粒子をクーロン力によって吸着させて着色することによって、着古し調、むら染め風、玉虫色調の色彩や陰影の明瞭な立体的な色彩を付与できる。糸、布帛又は繊維製品のアニオン化又はカチオン化を均一に処理して着色粒子を吸着させた場合では、天然繊維の粒子が染料や顔料より非常に大きいために、一見、均一に見えながら微細なむら染め風の仕上がりを再現性良く得ることができる。 By adsorbing and coloring natural fiber particles having a particle diameter of about 1 to 20 μm by Coulomb force, it is possible to impart a three-dimensional color with an antique tone, uneven dyeing style, iridescent tone, and shading. When colored particles are adsorbed by uniformly treating anion or cationization of yarns, fabrics or textile products, natural fiber particles are much larger than dyes or pigments. Uneven dyed finish can be obtained with good reproducibility.

布帛又は繊維製品にクーロン力で吸着させた着色粒子は、強力に固着していないので、部分的に洗い落とすことによって着古して色褪せた感じが表現できる。本方法は従来の洗い加工とは異なり、繊維素材を傷める程の物理的力を与えることがないので、ニットなどの柔軟でデリケートな素材でも色褪せたような独特の色彩表現を付与できる。   Since the colored particles adsorbed to the fabric or the textile product by the Coulomb force are not firmly fixed, it is possible to express a feeling of wear and fading by partially washing off. Unlike the conventional washing process, this method does not give a physical force enough to damage the fiber material, so that it can give a unique color expression that fades even with a soft and delicate material such as knit.

着色粒子を吸着させる糸、布帛又は繊維製品の前処理としてアニオン化又はカチオン化を、予めデザインされたパターンに従って絞り、捺染、スプレーによる吹き付けといった従来の技法を用いて不均一に処理することにより、粒子の吸着をデザイン通りのむら染め風に仕上げることができる。 As a pretreatment of yarns, fabrics or textiles that adsorb colored particles, anionization or cationization is treated non-uniformly using conventional techniques such as drawing, printing, spraying according to a pre-designed pattern, Particle adsorption can be finished in an uneven dyeing style as designed.

着色された天然繊維の粒子を布帛の表層と内部で濃度差のある不均一な状態で固着させることによって、見る角度の違いで異なる色に見える玉虫色調や陰影の明瞭な立体的な色彩を帯びさせることができる。従来法では、織物設計の段階から製品企画に大きな制約が伴ったり、多段階の煩雑な後加工の工程が必要であったが、本発明の方法では簡単な工程で同様の効果を得ることができる。 By fixing the colored natural fiber particles in a non-uniform state with a density difference between the surface layer and the inside of the fabric, it has a three-dimensional color with iridescent tones and shadows that look different colors depending on the viewing angle. Can be made. In the conventional method, there is a great restriction on the product planning from the fabric design stage, and a complicated multi-step post-processing process is required. However, the method of the present invention can obtain the same effect with a simple process. it can.

着色粒子を吸着させた糸、布帛又は繊維製品は、着色粒子が染料や顔料に比べて非常に大きいにも拘わらず、その粒子が天然繊維を粉砕したものであるために、吸着した布帛や繊維製品の風合いを大きく変えることがない。また、粒径が大きくても軽いため、水中での撹拌によって簡単に浮遊させることができ、効率的且つ再現性の良い処理ができる。 Threads, fabrics, or textiles that have colored particles adsorbed on them are made by pulverizing natural fibers even though the colored particles are much larger than dyes or pigments. The texture of the product will not change significantly. Moreover, since it is light even if the particle size is large, it can be easily suspended by stirring in water, and an efficient and reproducible treatment can be performed.

本発明で利用する天然繊維の粒子としては、麻やケナフなどのセルロース繊維や絹や羊毛などのタンパク質繊維を微粉砕して得られる粒子の他、カニの甲殻などの繊維質であるキチンを処理して得られるキトサンの粒子も用いることができる。天然繊維の粒子径は着古し調やむら染め効果を得るためには適度に大きい方が良いが、大き過ぎると水浴中で沈殿しやすくなるために繊維や布帛への吸着に不都合が生じる。水浴中で軽く撹拌して浮遊できるためには、5〜15μm程度の粒子径に粉砕されたものが好ましい。化粧品や食品の用途として市販されている(株)トスコ中央研究所製のセルロースパウダー、シルクパウダー、キトサンパウダーは、平均粒子径10μm前後に粉砕されているため、そのまま用いることができる。   As natural fiber particles used in the present invention, cellulose fibers such as hemp and kenaf, and particles obtained by pulverizing protein fibers such as silk and wool, as well as chitin which is a fiber such as crab shells are treated. It is also possible to use chitosan particles obtained as described above. The particle diameter of the natural fiber is preferably appropriately large in order to obtain an effect of aging and uneven dyeing, but if it is too large, it tends to precipitate in a water bath, causing inconvenience in adsorption to the fiber or fabric. In order to float by stirring lightly in a water bath, those pulverized to a particle size of about 5 to 15 μm are preferred. Cellulose powder, silk powder, and chitosan powder manufactured by Tosco Central Laboratory, which are commercially available for cosmetics and food use, can be used as they are because they are ground to an average particle size of about 10 μm.

本発明で用いる天然繊維の粒子の着色に利用する色素としては、粒子素材の性質に応じて、合成染料や天然色素の中から染着性の良好なものが選択されて用いられる。合成染料を用いて染色する場合には、セルロース繊維やタンパク質繊維を染色する場合と同様に、直接染料、反応染料、酸性染料などを用いることができる。天然色素を吸着させる場合には、アントシアニン色素、フラボノイド色素、キノン系色素、ジフェニル系色素、ベンゾピラン系色素、タンニン類、インジゴ、貝紫、カルタミン、ハーブ植物に含有される色素などの中から選ぶことができる。通常の天然染料染色の場合と同様に、金属媒染によって天然色素の色相を変化させたり、染色堅ろう性を向上させることもできる。   As the pigment used for coloring the natural fiber particles used in the present invention, those having good dyeability are selected from synthetic dyes and natural pigments according to the properties of the particle material. When dyeing using a synthetic dye, direct dyes, reactive dyes, acid dyes, and the like can be used as in the case of dyeing cellulose fibers and protein fibers. When adsorbing natural pigments, select from among anthocyanin pigments, flavonoid pigments, quinone pigments, diphenyl pigments, benzopyran pigments, tannins, indigo, shell purple, carthamin, pigments contained in herb plants, etc. Can do. As in the case of normal natural dye dyeing, the hue of natural pigments can be changed or dyeing fastness can be improved by metal mordanting.

本発明で着色粒子を吸着させる糸、布帛又は繊維製品を構成する繊維素材としては、カチオン化又はアニオン化されて着色粒子を吸着できるものであれば、特に制限されることなく使用できる。具体的には、綿、麻、レーヨン、キュプラ、和紙などのセルロース繊維、絹、毛などのタンパク質繊維、ジアセテート、トリアセテートなどの半合成繊維、ポリエステル、ナイロン、アクリル、ポリ乳酸などの合成繊維及びそれらの混用素材の中から選ぶことができる。 The fiber material constituting the yarn, fabric or fiber product that adsorbs the colored particles in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it can be cationized or anionized to adsorb the colored particles. Specifically, cellulose fibers such as cotton, hemp, rayon, cupra and Japanese paper, protein fibers such as silk and hair, semi-synthetic fibers such as diacetate and triacetate, synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, acrylic and polylactic acid, and You can choose from these mixed materials.

着色粒子を糸、布帛又は繊維製品に吸着させるために前処理として行うイオン化処理は、着色粒子と被吸着物の水中でのイオン性が正負の対になるように行う。着色粒子と糸、布帛又は繊維製品のイオン性は、正負の対であれば、いずれが正でいずれが負であっても良い。使用する薬剤には特に制限はなく、通常のアニオン化又はカチオン化処理に利用される薬剤の中で、着色粒子および糸、布帛又は繊維製品の素材に適した種類のものを選択して用いることができる。カチオン化剤としては、第4級アンモニウム塩、多官能第4級アンモニウム塩、グリシジルトリメチルアンモニウムクロライド、カチオン性界面活性剤などの反応性含窒素化合物を利用できる。また、アニオン化剤としては、サンドスペースR(クラリアントジャパン(株)製)などのトリアジン誘導体、EMACOL CT AGENT TR Conc 20(山陽色素(株)製)などの市販のアニオン化処理剤、ポリアクリル酸、ポリメタクリル酸などのポリアニオン化合物およびこれらのアルカリ金属塩、1,4−ブタンサルトンなどのスルホン化剤が使用可能である。また、処理を行わなくてもイオン性を帯びている繊維および粒子は、前処理を省略して吸着処理を行うこともできる。 The ionization treatment performed as a pretreatment for adsorbing the colored particles to the yarn, fabric, or textile product is performed so that the ionicity of the colored particles and the adsorbed material in water becomes a positive / negative pair. As long as the ionicity of a colored particle and a thread | yarn, a fabric, or a textile product is a positive / negative pair, either may be positive and which may be negative. There are no particular restrictions on the chemicals used, and among the chemicals used for normal anionization or cationization treatment, select one that is suitable for the colored particles and the material of the yarn, fabric or textile product. Can do. As the cationizing agent, reactive nitrogen-containing compounds such as quaternary ammonium salts, polyfunctional quaternary ammonium salts, glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride, and cationic surfactants can be used. Examples of the anionizing agent include triazine derivatives such as Sandspace R (manufactured by Clariant Japan Co., Ltd.), commercially available anionizing agents such as EMACOL CT AGENT TR Con 20 (manufactured by Sanyo Dyeing Co., Ltd.), and polyacrylic acid. Polyanionic compounds such as polymethacrylic acid, and alkali metal salts thereof, and sulfonating agents such as 1,4-butanesultone can be used. Further, the fibers and particles having ionicity can be subjected to an adsorption treatment without performing the pretreatment without any treatment.

天然色素の吸着量を増加させ、且つ染色堅ろう性を向上させるために、色素吸着の前に天然繊維の粒子をカチオン化やアニオン化処理を行うこともできる。カチオン化及びアニオン化処理は、前記の着色粒子を吸着させるための前処理として行うイオン化処理と同様に行うことができる。 In order to increase the amount of natural pigment adsorbed and to improve dye fastness, natural fiber particles may be subjected to cationization or anionization treatment before dye adsorption. The cationization and anionization treatment can be performed in the same manner as the ionization treatment performed as a pretreatment for adsorbing the colored particles.

着色粒子の糸、布帛又は繊維製品への吸着は、水浴中に両者を共存させて撹拌しながら吸着させる方法で行う。浴の種類としては、通常、糸染め、布染めおよび製品染めの浸染法に用いられる染色機を利用できる。浴比は染色機に合わせて適当な条件に設定できるが、クーロン引力によって吸着速度が高まるため、通常の染色条件より高い浴比でも効率的な処理ができる。着色粒子の使用量は多すぎるとバインダーによる固着が困難になるため、最大でも被吸着物の重量の20%を限度とし、好ましくは0.1〜10%の範囲で処理を行う。均一な吸着処理を行うためには、着色粒子を水浴に分割投与してもよい。助剤として、通常の染色に使用される酢酸などの酸性助剤、ソーダ灰などのアルカリ性助剤、非イオン系界面活性剤などを浴中に投入することもできる。吸着処理を行う際の処理液の温度は室温でも可能であり、季節間の温度変動に影響されることなく処理の再現性を高く保つために40℃以上の温度に昇温しても良い。   Adsorption of the colored particles to the yarn, fabric or textile product is carried out by adsorbing both particles in a water bath with stirring. As the type of bath, a dyeing machine which is usually used for the dyeing method of yarn dyeing, cloth dyeing and product dyeing can be used. The bath ratio can be set to an appropriate condition according to the dyeing machine, but since the adsorption speed is increased by the Coulomb attractive force, an efficient treatment can be performed even at a bath ratio higher than the normal dyeing condition. If the amount of the colored particles used is too large, fixing with the binder becomes difficult. Therefore, the maximum amount is 20% of the weight of the object to be adsorbed, and the treatment is preferably performed in the range of 0.1 to 10%. In order to perform uniform adsorption treatment, the colored particles may be divided and administered to a water bath. As an auxiliary agent, an acidic auxiliary agent such as acetic acid used for normal dyeing, an alkaline auxiliary agent such as soda ash, a nonionic surfactant, and the like can be added to the bath. The temperature of the treatment liquid during the adsorption treatment can be room temperature, and the temperature may be raised to a temperature of 40 ° C. or higher in order to keep the reproducibility of the treatment high without being influenced by seasonal temperature fluctuations.

着色粒子を吸着させる布帛又は繊維製品は、以下のような手法とそれらを組み合わせた手法によって、着古し調、むら染め風、玉虫色調の色彩や陰影の明瞭な立体的な色彩を得ることができる。微細なむら状の仕上がりは、布帛や繊維製品のアニオン化又はカチオン化処理は均一に行い、適度に調整された撹拌状態で着色粒子を吸着させ、着色粒子が従来の染料や顔料に比べて大きいことで生じる微妙なむら効果を利用することで得られる。着古し調の色彩は、クーロン引力による着色粒子の布帛への吸着は完全な接着ではないことを利用し、バインダーによる固着を行う前の段階で布帛や繊維製品に吸着した着色粒子を部分的に洗い落とすことによって得られる。模様状のむら染め風の色彩は、布帛又は繊維製品のアニオン化又はカチオン化処理を、予めデザインされたパターンに従って行うことによって得られる。デザインされたパターンに従ってイオン化処理する方法としては、従来から行われている様々な捺染技法を応用することができ、絞り染めの技法、のりやろうを用いた防染手法、スプレーによる吹き付けといった方法で行うことができる。玉虫色調の色彩や陰影の明瞭な立体的な色彩は、着色粒子が繊維の密集領域に吸着されやすく、布帛又は繊維製品の表層と内部において濃度差のある不均一な状態で固着することによって得られる。異なる色の2種類以上の着色粒子を吸着させたり、通常の染色と着色粒子による着色を組み合わせることによって、より効果的に玉虫色調の色彩や陰影の明瞭な立体的な色彩を得ることができる。 Fabrics or textiles that adsorb colored particles can obtain three-dimensional colors with clear and shaded colors such as antique, uneven dyeing, iridescent tones, and the like in combination with the following methods. The fine uneven finish has a uniform anionization or cationization treatment for fabrics and textiles, adsorbs colored particles in a properly adjusted stirring state, and the colored particles are larger than conventional dyes and pigments. It can be obtained by using the subtle uneven effect that occurs. The color of the old-fashioned color uses the fact that the colored particles adsorbed to the fabric by the Coulomb attractive force are not completely adhered, and the colored particles adsorbed to the fabric and textiles are partially washed away before fixing with the binder. Can be obtained. The pattern-like uneven dyeing color can be obtained by performing anionization or cationization treatment of a fabric or fiber product according to a pre-designed pattern. As a method of ionization treatment according to the designed pattern, various conventional printing techniques can be applied, such as tie-dyeing technique, anti-dyeing technique using glue and wax, and spraying by spraying. be able to. Clearly three-dimensional colors with iridescent tones and shades can be obtained by coloring particles adhering to the dense areas of the fibers and sticking in a non-uniform state with a concentration difference between the surface layer and the inside of the fabric or textile product. It is done. By adsorbing two or more kinds of colored particles of different colors or by combining ordinary dyeing and coloring with colored particles, it is possible to more effectively obtain iridescent tones and shaded three-dimensional colors.

バインダー処理は、着色粒子の糸、布帛又は繊維製品への吸着後、あるいは着古し調やむら染め風効果を付与する工程の後に、バインダーを含有する溶液中で処理した後に脱水、自然乾燥又は加熱処理して行う。バインダーとしては、顔料捺染で顔料を繊維に接着させるために使用されるもので、適当な硬さ、柔軟性、接着力、各種耐久力や安定性があるものであれば、特に制限されることなく使用できる。具体的な組成は一概にはいえないが、アクリル系樹脂、アクリル酸エステル樹脂、エポキシ系樹脂、ウレタン樹脂などが挙げられる。 In the binder treatment, after the colored particles are adsorbed on yarns, fabrics or textile products, or after the step of imparting the effect of aging and uneven dyeing, treatment in a solution containing a binder is followed by dehydration, natural drying or heat treatment. And do it. The binder is used for adhering the pigment to the fiber in pigment printing, and is particularly limited as long as it has appropriate hardness, flexibility, adhesive strength, various durability and stability. Can be used without Although a specific composition cannot be generally stated, acrylic resins, acrylic ester resins, epoxy resins, urethane resins, and the like can be given.

以下に、発明の実施の形態を実施例に基づき、図面を参照して説明する。ただし、本発明は以下の実施例に限定されるものではない。(株)トスコ中央研究所製の平均粒子径10μmのセルロースパウダーの着色は、セルロースパウダー100重量部に対して住友化学工業(株)製の反応染料スミフィックス・スプラ・レッド3BF20重量部を用いて、浴比1:10、炭酸ナトリウム40g/L、硫酸ナトリウム80g/Lの条件で、60℃で45分の染色を行い、続いて水洗、脱水、乾燥によって着色粒子を得た。着色粒子のアニオン化は、クラリアントジャパン(株)製のサンドスペースRの50g/L水溶液中、浴比1:20で、100℃で20分の処理を行った。セルロース生地のカチオン化は、生地100重量部に対してセンカ(株)製のカチオン化剤KZ−76を10重量部用いて、浴比1:20、100℃で20分の処理を行った。アニオン化した着色粒子のカチオン化生地への吸着処理は、生地100重量部に対して着色粒子5重量部を用いて、浴比1:40、室温で軽く撹拌しながら10分の処理を行った。続いて全体を軽く水洗し、部分的に強く洗って着色粒子を脱落させた。バインダー処理は、生地100重量部に対して大和化学工業(株)製のアクリル系樹脂であるファイコート100Tを7重量部用いて、浴比1:40、80℃で20分の処理を行った後、110℃で乾燥して着色粒子を固着させた。繊維間に固着した着色粒子の様子を、布帛の拡大断面図として図1に示す。得られた布は、強く洗浄した部分は着古して色褪せたような感じの色合いとなり、着色粒子が均一に固着した他の部分は微妙なむら状に仕上がった。 Embodiments of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings based on examples. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples. Cellulose powder with an average particle size of 10 μm manufactured by Tosco Central Laboratory Co., Ltd. is colored by using 20 parts by weight of the reactive dye Sumifix Supra Red 3BF manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd. with respect to 100 parts by weight of cellulose powder. Dyeing was performed at 60 ° C. for 45 minutes under the conditions of a bath ratio of 1:10, sodium carbonate of 40 g / L, and sodium sulfate of 80 g / L, followed by washing with water, dehydration, and drying to obtain colored particles. Anionization of the colored particles was performed in a 50 g / L aqueous solution of Sandspace R manufactured by Clariant Japan Co., Ltd. at a bath ratio of 1:20 at 100 ° C. for 20 minutes. The cationization of the cellulose dough was carried out at a bath ratio of 1:20 at 100 ° C. for 20 minutes using 10 parts by weight of a cationizing agent KZ-76 manufactured by Senka Co., Ltd. with respect to 100 parts by weight of the dough. The adsorption treatment of the anionized colored particles on the cationized dough was performed using 5 parts by weight of the colored particles with respect to 100 parts by weight of the dough for 10 minutes with a bath ratio of 1:40 and light stirring at room temperature. . Subsequently, the whole was lightly washed with water, and then partly washed strongly to remove the colored particles. The binder treatment was performed for 20 minutes at 80 ° C. with a bath ratio of 1:40 using 7 parts by weight of phicoat 100T, which is an acrylic resin manufactured by Daiwa Chemical Industries, Ltd. with respect to 100 parts by weight of the dough. Thereafter, the colored particles were fixed by drying at 110 ° C. The state of the colored particles fixed between the fibers is shown in FIG. 1 as an enlarged cross-sectional view of the fabric. In the obtained cloth, the strongly washed portion was worn and faded, and the other portion where the colored particles were uniformly fixed was finished in a subtle uneven shape.

本発明の実施例2を以下に示す。(株)トスコ中央研究所製の平均粒子径10μm以下のシルクパウダーのアニオン化は、山陽色素(株)製のEMACOL CT AGENT TR Conc 20の10g/L水溶液中、浴比1:10、70℃で20分の処理を行った。続いてパウダーの着色は、シルクパウダー100重量部に対してキリヤ化学(株)製のムラサキイモ色素、キリヤスレッドPSPを5重量部を用いて、浴比1:10、pH2、70℃で20分の処理を行い、水洗、脱水、乾燥によって着色粒子を得た。ナイロン編物のカチオン化は、むら状にカチオン化するためにナイロン編物を部分的に紐で括って絞り、編物100重量部に対してカチオン化剤KZ−76を7重量部用いて、浴比1:20、70℃で20分の処理を行った。着色粒子のカチオン化生地への吸着処理は、生地100重量部に対して着色粒子10重量部を用いて、浴比1:40、室温で軽く撹拌しながら10分の処理を行った。バインダー処理は、生地100重量部に対してファイコート100Tを7重量部用いて、浴比1:40、80℃で20分の処理を行った後、110℃で乾燥して着色粒子を固着させた。着色されたナイロン編物は、桃色の模様状むら染め風の仕上がりとなった。 Example 2 of the present invention is shown below. Anionization of silk powder having an average particle diameter of 10 μm or less manufactured by Tosco Central Research Laboratory Co., Ltd. was carried out in a 10 g / L aqueous solution of EMACOL CT AGENT TR Conc 20 manufactured by Sanyo Dyeing Co., Ltd., bath ratio 1:10, 70 ° C. The treatment for 20 minutes was performed. Subsequently, the powder was colored using 100 parts by weight of silk powder, 5 parts by weight of Murasaki potato pigment and Kiriya thread PSP manufactured by Kiriya Chemical Co., Ltd., at a bath ratio of 1:10, pH 2, 70 ° C. for 20 minutes. The colored particles were obtained by washing with water, dehydration and drying. In order to cationize the nylon knitted fabric, the nylon knitted fabric is partially squeezed and squeezed with a string in order to cationize unevenly, and a cationizing agent KZ-76 is used in an amount of 7 parts by weight with respect to 100 parts by weight of the knitted fabric. : Treated at 20, 70 ° C. for 20 minutes. The adsorption treatment of the colored particles on the cationized dough was carried out using 10 parts by weight of the colored particles with respect to 100 parts by weight of the dough for 10 minutes with a bath ratio of 1:40 and light stirring at room temperature. The binder treatment uses 7 parts by weight of FICOAT 100T with respect to 100 parts by weight of the dough, and after processing at a bath ratio of 1:40 and 80 ° C. for 20 minutes, it is dried at 110 ° C. to fix the colored particles. It was. The colored nylon knitted fabric has a pink-patterned pattern-dyed finish.

本発明の実施例3を以下に示す。 (株)トスコ中央研究所製の平均粒子径10μm以下のシルクパウダーの着色は、シルクパウダー80重量部に対して住友化学工業(株)製の反応染料スミフィックス・スプラシリーズの3原色、イエロー3RF、レッド3BF、ブルーBRFをそれぞれ20重量部ずつ用いて、浴比1:20、炭酸ナトリウム20g/L、ボウ硝80g/Lの条件で、60℃で60分の染色を行い、続いて水洗、脱水、乾燥によって3原色の着色粒子を得た。綿のTシャツのカチオン化は、Tシャツ100重量部に対してセンカ(株)製のカチオン化剤KZ−76を7重量部用いて、浴比1:20、70℃で20分の処理を行った。3原色の着色粒子のアニオン化処理は行わず、シルクパウダーが本来有するアニオン性を利用してカチオン化されたTシャツに吸着させた。吸着処理は、Tシャツ100重量部に対して着色粒子のイエロー3重量部、レッド2.5重量部、ブルー3重量部、炭酸ナトリウム2重量部を用いて、浴比1:20、60℃で40分の処理を行った。バインダー処理は、生地100重量部に対してファイコート100Tを7重量部用いて、浴比1:40、80℃で20分の処理を行った後、脱水、自然乾燥して着色粒子を固着させた。得られたTシャツは、見る角度によって微妙に異なる色に見える玉虫色調で陰影の明瞭な色彩に仕上がった。 Example 3 of the present invention is shown below. Silk powder with an average particle size of 10 μm or less manufactured by Tosco Central Laboratory Co., Ltd. is colored with 3 primary colors of the reactive dye Sumifix Spula series manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., yellow 3RF for 80 parts by weight of silk powder. , Red 3BF and Blue BRF were each used in 20 parts by weight, and dyeing was performed at 60 ° C. for 60 minutes under a bath ratio of 1:20, sodium carbonate 20 g / L, and bow glass 80 g / L, followed by washing with water. Three primary color particles were obtained by dehydration and drying. The cationization of the cotton T-shirt is carried out by using a cationizing agent KZ-76 manufactured by Senka Co., Ltd. for 7 parts by weight per 100 parts by weight of the T-shirt, with a bath ratio of 1:20 at 70 ° C. for 20 minutes. went. The colored particles of the three primary colors were not subjected to anionization treatment, and were adsorbed on a T-shirt that was cationized using the anionic nature of silk powder. The adsorption treatment uses 3 parts by weight of yellow, 2.5 parts by weight of red, 3 parts by weight of blue, and 2 parts by weight of sodium carbonate with respect to 100 parts by weight of T-shirt at a bath ratio of 1:20 and 60 ° C. Processing for 40 minutes was performed. The binder treatment uses 7 parts by weight of FICOAT 100T with respect to 100 parts by weight of the dough, and after 20 minutes of treatment at a bath ratio of 1:40 and 80 ° C., dehydration and natural drying are performed to fix the colored particles. It was. The obtained T-shirt was finished in a clear shade with an iridescent tone that looks slightly different depending on the viewing angle.

本発明の着色された天然繊維の粒子を固着させる繊維の着色方法は、柔軟でデリケートな素材に対しても、繊維を傷めることなく着古し調、むら染め風、玉虫色調の色彩や陰影の明瞭な立体的な色彩を付与できる。このようにして得られる新規な色彩の繊維素材や繊維製品は、様々な種類の素材に応用可能であることから、衣料用途における高感性なファッション素材あるいは製品として、またインテリア用途の繊維素材として広く利用される可能性がある。 The fiber coloring method for fixing the colored natural fiber particles according to the present invention can be applied to a soft and delicate material without damaging the fiber, such as old-fashioned, uneven dyeing, iridescent tones and shading. A three-dimensional color can be given. The new color fiber materials and fiber products obtained in this way can be applied to various types of materials, so they are widely used as high-sensitivity fashion materials or products in clothing and as interior materials. May be used.

着色粒子を繊維間に固着させた布帛の拡大断面図Enlarged sectional view of a fabric in which colored particles are fixed between fibers

符号の説明Explanation of symbols

1 布帛を構成する単繊維の断面
2 色素で着色された天然繊維の粒子
3 バインダー
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Section of single fiber constituting fabric 2 Natural fiber particles colored with pigment 3 Binder

Claims (4)

着色された天然繊維の粒子が固着していることによって色彩を帯びていることを特徴とする糸、布帛又は繊維製品。 A yarn, fabric or textile product characterized by being colored by the particles of colored natural fibers adhering thereto. 着色された天然繊維の粒子が、布帛又は繊維製品の平面上に不均一に固着されることによって、着古し調又はむら染め風の色彩が表現されていることを特徴とする布帛又は繊維製品。 A fabric or textile product characterized in that colored natural fiber particles are non-uniformly fixed on the plane of the fabric or textile product, thereby expressing an antique or uneven dyed color. 着色された天然繊維の粒子が、布帛又は繊維製品の表層と内部において濃度差のある不均一な状態で固着することによって、見る角度の違いで異なる色に見える玉虫色調の色彩又は陰影の明瞭な立体的な色彩を帯びていることを特徴とする布帛又は繊維製品。 The colored natural fiber particles adhere to the surface of the fabric or textile product in a non-uniform state with a concentration difference between them, so that the iridescent tone color or shading that appears to be different colors at different viewing angles A fabric or textile product characterized by having a three-dimensional color. 着色された天然繊維の粒子と、糸、布帛又は繊維製品を水浴中で正負の対としてイオン化し、クーロン引力によって粒子を糸、布帛又は繊維製品に吸着させ、続いてバインダーで固着させることを特徴とする糸、布帛又は繊維製品の製造方法。   It is characterized by ionizing colored natural fiber particles and yarn, fabric or textile product as a positive / negative pair in a water bath, adsorbing the particles to the yarn, fabric or textile product by Coulomb attraction, and subsequently fixing with a binder. A method for producing a yarn, fabric or textile product.
JP2004063314A 2004-03-08 2004-03-08 Method for producing yarn, fabric or textile Expired - Lifetime JP3855201B2 (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106283317A (en) * 2016-07-27 2017-01-04 巴彦淖尔金天阳纺织科技有限公司 Fine hair dotting machine and the technique utilizing the standby color point of fine hair dotting mechanism

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106283317A (en) * 2016-07-27 2017-01-04 巴彦淖尔金天阳纺织科技有限公司 Fine hair dotting machine and the technique utilizing the standby color point of fine hair dotting mechanism

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