JP2005179796A - Double woven denim - Google Patents

Double woven denim Download PDF

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Publication number
JP2005179796A
JP2005179796A JP2003418822A JP2003418822A JP2005179796A JP 2005179796 A JP2005179796 A JP 2005179796A JP 2003418822 A JP2003418822 A JP 2003418822A JP 2003418822 A JP2003418822 A JP 2003418822A JP 2005179796 A JP2005179796 A JP 2005179796A
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lining
denim
double woven
warp
weft
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JP3891983B2 (en
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Masami Seki
正美 関
Etsuji Katayama
悦二 片山
Wataru Sugitani
亘 杉谷
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NISSHIN DENIM KK
Nisshinbo Holdings Inc
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NISSHIN DENIM KK
Nisshinbo Industries Inc
Nisshin Spinning Co Ltd
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Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a warp-weft double woven denim which has an excellent heat-insulating property and has a lining having characteristics different from those of the face side denim. <P>SOLUTION: This double woven denim is a warp-weft double woven fabric which is made by intermittently binding a face side denim 20 to a lining 30 with warps 21, 31 and/or wefts 22, 32 and has portions where the face side denim is separated from the lining, and bound portions Δ where the face side denim is bound to the lining is characterized in that the face side denim and the lining comprise different fibers, respectively, and the face side denim comprises spun cotton yarns and is dyed with indigo. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

本発明はデニムに関し、特に、表地と裏地とを接結した二重織物に関するものである。   The present invention relates to denim, and more particularly, to a double woven fabric in which a surface and a lining are joined.

従来の一般的なデニムは、綿100%のスパン糸で、2/1又は3/1綾織りの組織で構成された一重の織物である。経糸にインジコ染めした先染め糸を用い、緯糸に晒糸を用いた先染めのデニムや、製織後にインジコ染めしたデニムの双方がある。また、一部使用糸に高強度再生セルロース繊維(たとえば、商品名「テンセル」)やウーリーナイロンを用いたデニムや、起毛したソフトデニムなどがある。   Conventional common denim is a single woven fabric composed of a 2/1 or 3/1 twill structure with 100% cotton spun yarn. There are both pre-dyed denim using indigo-dyed yarn for warp and bleached yarn for weft, and indigo-dyed after weaving. In addition, there are denims using high-strength regenerated cellulose fibers (for example, trade name “Tencel”) and wooly nylon as partially used yarns, and raised soft denims.

デニムは厚手の織物なので、非常に丈夫で、繰り返し洗濯にも耐えるため作業服、子ども服、室内装飾などに用いられる。また、若者を中心としたファッション文化の一翼を担ってもいる。   Denim is a thick fabric, so it is very durable and can withstand repeated washing, so it is used for work clothes, children's clothing, and interior decoration. He is also a part of fashion culture with a focus on youth.

このようにデニムは、ファッション性があり、引き裂き強度や摩擦強度は強いのであるが、その反面、重く、硬く、ストレッチ性がないという特性を有する。   Thus, denim is fashionable and has high tear strength and friction strength, but on the other hand, it is heavy, hard and has no stretch properties.

そこで、特許文献1(特開2003−113549号)では、デニムにストレッチ性を付与するものとして、経二重織デニムを提案している。これは、経糸を表裏二重にし、緯糸を一重にしたもので、緯糸にポリウレタン系の弾性繊維を用いたものである。緯糸の弾性によって、ストレッチ性が生じるようになっている。   Therefore, Patent Document 1 (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2003-113549) proposes a warp double woven denim to impart stretch properties to the denim. This is a double warp and a single weft, and polyurethane elastic fibers are used for the weft. Stretch is generated by the elasticity of the weft.

しかしながら、前記特許文献1記載のものは、ストレッチ性は向上するが、デニムの有する次のような問題は解決することはできない。   However, although the thing of the said patent document 1 improves stretchability, the following problems which denim has cannot be solved.

第1に、従来のデニムは、経緯に太い糸を使用するので重くなり、細い糸にすると、保温性に欠ける。また、第2に夏期に汗をかくとデニムが汗を吸収するが、生地が皮膚に密着して、不快な感じを与える。第3に、コットン製のデニムは清涼感があるが、冬季には、これが逆に作用して温かさに欠ける。   First, conventional denim is heavy because thick threads are used for the background, and lacks heat retention when thin threads are used. Second, when sweat is sweated in summer, denim absorbs sweat, but the fabric adheres to the skin and gives an unpleasant feeling. Thirdly, cotton denim has a refreshing sensation, but in winter, it acts in reverse and lacks warmth.

特開2003−113549号JP 2003-113549 A

本発明は、このような事実に基づいてなされたもので、保温性に優れたデニムを提供することを目的としている。また、併せて、表地のデニムと異なる特性を有する裏地を持った二重織りのデニムを提供することを目的としている。   This invention is made | formed based on such a fact, and it aims at providing the denim excellent in heat retention. In addition, another object of the present invention is to provide a double woven denim having a lining having characteristics different from those of the outer denim.

前記の目的を達成するために本願の第1の発明の二重織デニムは、表地と裏地とを表地と裏地の経糸及び緯糸で間欠的に接結し、表地と裏地とが離反した部分と、表地と裏地とが結合した接結部分とを有する経緯二重織であって、表地と裏地が異なる繊維からなり、表地が綿のスパン糸からなりインジコ染めされたことを特徴としている。   In order to achieve the above-mentioned object, the double woven denim of the first invention of the present application is formed by intermittently connecting the outer material and the lining material with the warp and weft of the outer material and the lining material, and the portion where the outer material and the lining material are separated. This is a double weaving fabric having a connecting portion in which the outer material and the lining are joined, characterized in that the outer material and the lining material are made of different fibers, and the outer material is made of cotton spun yarn and dyed indigo.

本願の第2の発明の二重織デニムは、前記裏地が合成繊維のフィラメント糸又はスパン糸からなることを特徴としている。   The double woven denim of the second invention of the present application is characterized in that the lining is made of a filament yarn or a spun yarn of a synthetic fiber.

本願の第3の発明の二重織デニムは、前記裏地が綿より保水性の低い繊維であることを特徴としている。   The double woven denim of the third invention of the present application is characterized in that the lining is a fiber having a lower water retention than cotton.

本願の第4の発明の二重織デニムは、前記裏地が経糸、緯糸ともにポリエステル糸であることを特徴としている。   The double woven denim of the fourth invention of the present application is characterized in that the lining is a polyester yarn for both warp and weft.

本願の第5の発明の二重織デニムは、前記表地と裏地の各経糸と緯糸とを合計した重量比が、1:1〜3:1であることを特徴としている。   The double woven denim according to the fifth invention of the present application is characterized in that the weight ratio of the warp and the weft of the surface and lining is 1: 1 to 3: 1.

本願の第1の発明の二重織デニムによれば、表地は、従来と同じデニムであり、表地と裏地との間に空間が形成されるので、この空間に空気が入り、保温性に優れたデニムとなる。また、裏地を表地とは異なる繊維とすることで、汗や雨等で濡れても肌にくっつきにくくしたり、発熱性の機能を得たり、逆に冷感素材を用いたりするなど多様な機能を得ることが可能となる。   According to the double woven denim of the first invention of the present application, the outer material is the same denim as before, and a space is formed between the outer material and the lining material, so that air enters the space and is excellent in heat retention. Denim. In addition, by making the lining different from the outer fabric, various functions such as making it difficult to stick to the skin even when wet with sweat, rain, etc., obtaining a heat generating function, and conversely using a cold feeling material Can be obtained.

本願の第3及び第4の発明によれば、裏地が綿より保水性が低いポリエステルなので、水分が拡がり易く、肌への付着力が小さくなって濡れた感じを和らげ、かつ、早く乾燥させることができる。   According to the third and fourth inventions of the present application, since the lining is a polyester having a lower water retention than cotton, the moisture spreads easily, the adhesion to the skin is reduced and the wet feeling is relieved and dried quickly. Can do.

以下に本発明の実施例を、図面を用いて説明する。   Embodiments of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings.

図1は本発明の経緯二重織デニムの組織図であり、図2は、経緯二重織デニムの断面図である。図2に示す経緯二重織デニム10は、表地20と裏地30とからなる接結二重織構造である。接結二重織とは、表地20と裏地30の2枚の織物を重ねて織り、同時に表地と裏地の経糸と緯糸とを部分的に交差させて結合したものである。基本的には2枚の織物として分離しているが、所々で表地と裏地とが結合していて、離れることがない。図2において、表地の緯糸22は図1のAに示す緯糸22で、裏地の緯糸32は図1のBに示す緯糸32である。   FIG. 1 is a structure diagram of a background double woven denim according to the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view of the background double woven denim. The background double woven denim 10 shown in FIG. 2 has a bonded double woven structure composed of a surface material 20 and a lining material 30. The binding double weave is obtained by weaving two woven fabrics of the outer material 20 and the lining material 30, and simultaneously joining the warp yarns and the weft yarns of the outer material and the lining material. Basically, they are separated as two woven fabrics, but the outer and lining are joined in some places, so they will not leave. In FIG. 2, the surface weft 22 is the weft 22 shown in FIG. 1A, and the back weft 32 is the weft 32 shown in FIG.

すなわち、図1に示すように、表地20は、経糸21と緯糸22とから構成され、裏地30は経糸31と緯糸32とから構成されている。表地20、裏地30は共に3/1綾織りで、表地20は、経糸21・緯糸22共に10番手の綿100%のスパン糸を用いている。経糸31はインジコによる先染糸で、緯糸22は晒し糸とした。   That is, as shown in FIG. 1, the outer material 20 is composed of warps 21 and wefts 22, and the backing 30 is composed of warps 31 and wefts 32. Both the outer material 20 and the lining material 30 are 3/1 twill weaves, and the outer material 20 uses tenth-numbered 100% cotton spun yarn for both the warp yarn 21 and the weft yarn 22. The warp 31 was pre-dyed by Indico, and the weft 22 was a bleached yarn.

裏地30は、経糸31・緯糸32共に、1.5〜2.5デニールの細いフィラメントを多数引き揃えて500デニールの太さにしたポリエステルフィラメントで、200回/mの撚りを加えたものを用いている。このフィラメント糸は、無撚りでもよいが、100〜800回/mの撚りを加えた糸の方が、製織性が向上する。撚りを加えることによって、糸の毛羽立ちが減り、織機のヘルド等を通過し易くなるからである。撚りが100回/m未満では毛羽立ちが増え、800回/mを越えると、撚りが強すぎて風合いが悪化するので前記の範囲としている。   The lining 30 is a polyester filament in which warps 31 and wefts 32 are both made of polyester filaments having a thickness of 500 denier by drawing a large number of thin filaments of 1.5 to 2.5 denier, and using a twist of 200 times / m. ing. The filament yarn may be untwisted, but the weaving property of the yarn added with 100 to 800 turns / m is improved. This is because by adding the twist, the fuzz of the yarn is reduced and it becomes easy to pass through the heald or the like of the loom. When the twist is less than 100 times / m, the fluffing increases, and when it exceeds 800 times / m, the twist is too strong and the texture is deteriorated.

図1において、縦線の入ったマスは表地の経糸21が表面(表地の表側)に出ている所である。白いマスは表地の緯糸22が表面に出ている所である。丸印のマスは裏地の緯糸32が表面に出ている所で、×印のマスは裏地の経糸31が表面に出て、緯糸が裏地の緯糸32の所で、△印のマスは、裏地の経糸31が表面に出て緯糸が表地の緯糸22の所で、接結部である。すなわち、ここの接結部で表地20と裏地30が結合している。   In FIG. 1, a square with a vertical line is a place where the warp 21 of the outer surface is on the surface (the outer side of the outer surface). The white square is where the surface weft 22 is on the surface. Circles marked with circles are where the weft 32 of the lining is on the surface, squares marked with x are where the warp 31 of the lining is on the surface, wefts are where the weft 32 is on the lining, and triangles marked with △ are the lining The warp 31 comes out on the surface and the weft is the connecting portion at the surface weft 22. That is, the outer material 20 and the lining material 30 are joined at the connecting portion.

この△の接結部は二重織デニム10の縦方向、横方向に点々と存在することとなり、表地20は、綿の3/1綾織りが主体で接結部に裏地30のポリエステルが点々と入った生地となり、裏地30はポリエステルの平織りで、点々と表地20の綿が入った生地となる。表地20と裏地30とは、それぞれ独立した布地を構成するとともに、多数の接結部で一体的に結合していることになる。     This Δ connecting portion will be dotted in the vertical and horizontal directions of the double woven denim 10, and the outer fabric 20 is mainly made of 3/1 twill of cotton and the polyester of the lining 30 in the connecting portion. The lining 30 is a plain weave of polyester, and is a cloth containing cotton of the outer material 20 in various places. The outer material 20 and the lining material 30 constitute an independent fabric, and are integrally joined by a large number of connecting portions.

前記実施例の二重織デニム10は、表地20と裏地30とが分離しているので、両者の間に空気層が形成され、保温に優れたものとなる。この特性は、冬季には非常に具合がよい。
また、通常の木綿のデニムでは、吸水性がよく、保水性がよいので乾きにくい。そのため、雨で外側から濡れたり、夏期には汗で内側から濡れたりすると、いずれも肌に達し、肌に密着して不快な感じが長く続く。これに対し、本発明の実施例の二重織デニム10では、表地20が雨等で濡れた場合でも、裏地30との間に空気層があるので、水分が裏地30に達しにくくなる。また、汗をかいた場合でも、裏地30がポリエステルで疎水性なので、付着した汗は裏地30の広範囲に拡がって、肌への付着力も小さくなり、濡れた生地に触れたときの感触もやわらぐ。また、裏地30はポリエステルなので乾きも早くなり、不快な感じが軽く、かつ短くなる。
In the double woven denim 10 of the above embodiment, the outer layer 20 and the lining 30 are separated from each other, so that an air layer is formed between them, and the heat retention is excellent. This characteristic is very good in winter.
Also, ordinary cotton denim has good water absorption and water retention, so it is difficult to dry. Therefore, when wet from the outside due to rain or wet from the inside during sweat in summer, both reach the skin, and the skin feels uncomfortable for a long time. On the other hand, in the double woven denim 10 of the embodiment of the present invention, even when the outer surface 20 gets wet due to rain or the like, there is an air layer between the outer layer 30 and the moisture hardly reaches the inner layer 30. Even when sweat is applied, since the lining 30 is polyester and hydrophobic, the attached sweat spreads over a wide area of the lining 30 and the adhesion to the skin is reduced, and the touch when touching wet fabric is soft. . Moreover, since the lining 30 is polyester, it dries quickly, and unpleasant feeling is light and short.

前記の実施例では、表地20が経糸・緯糸共に10番手、裏地30が経糸・緯糸共に、表地より若干細い500デニールで、かつ、裏地と表地との組織が同じだったので、表地と裏地との経緯本数も重量もほぼ2:1となっている。デニムとしては、裏地の方が表地より重くなるのは全体の重さが重すぎることになるので、望ましくなく、裏地の方が軽い方がよい。しかし、あまり軽くし過ぎると、空気層の確保ができなくなることから、表地:裏地の比率は重量比で、1:1から3:1の範囲と考えられる。   In the above embodiment, the outer material 20 was 10th for both warp and weft, the lining 30 was 500 denier for both the warp and weft, slightly thinner than the outer material, and the structure of the outer material and the outer material was the same. The number and weight of this are almost 2: 1. As for denim, it is not desirable that the lining is heavier than the outer material because the overall weight is too heavy, and the lining is preferably lighter. However, if the surface is too light, the air layer cannot be secured, so the ratio of the outer material to the inner material is considered to be in the range of 1: 1 to 3: 1.

前記実施例では、表地20の経糸21と緯糸22は、10番手であったが、5〜20番手の糸を使用することができる。デニム生地の特徴とする引き裂き強度や摩擦強度や生地厚みなどの感触から、糸は5番手〜20番手がより好ましい。   In the above embodiment, the warp yarn 21 and the weft yarn 22 of the outer material 20 were 10th, but 5th to 20th yarns can be used. The yarn is more preferably 5th to 20th from the feel such as tear strength, friction strength, and fabric thickness, which are characteristic of denim fabric.

裏地30の経糸31・緯糸32としては500デニールの糸を使用したが、150から800デニールの太さの糸を使用することができる。糸の太さが太いときは、経緯の糸の本数を減らし、糸が細いときは、本数を増やすことで、前記の1:1から3:1の範囲内に保つことができる。また、フィラメント糸に代えてスパン糸としてもよい。   As the warp 31 and the weft 32 of the lining 30, a 500 denier yarn is used, but a yarn having a thickness of 150 to 800 denier can be used. When the yarn thickness is thick, the number of warp yarns is reduced, and when the yarn is thin, the number can be increased to maintain the range from 1: 1 to 3: 1. Further, a spun yarn may be used instead of the filament yarn.

本発明の経緯二重織デニムの組織図である。It is an organization chart of the background double woven denim of the present invention. 本発明の経緯二重織デニムの断面図である。It is sectional drawing of the background double woven denim of this invention.

符号の説明Explanation of symbols

10 二重織デニム
20 表地
21 (表地の)経糸
22 (表地の)緯糸
30 裏地
31 (裏地の)経糸
32 (裏地の)緯糸
10 Double Woven Denim 20 Surface 21 (Outer) Warp 22 (Outer) Weft 30 Lining 31 (Lined) Warp 32 (Lined) Weft

Claims (5)

表側組織と裏側組織とを経糸及び緯糸で間欠的に接結し、表地と裏地とが離反した部分と、表地と裏地とが結合した部分とを有する経緯二重織であって、表地と裏地が異なる繊維からなり、表地が綿のスパン糸からなり経糸と緯糸の少なくとも一方がインジコ染めされたことを特徴とする二重織デニム。   A warp double weave having a portion where the front side and the back side are intermittently joined with warps and wefts, a portion where the front and the back are separated, and a portion where the front and the back are combined. Is a double woven denim characterized in that it is made of different fibers, the outer surface is made of spun yarn of cotton, and at least one of warp and weft is indigo dyed. 前記裏地が合成繊維のフィラメント糸又はスパン糸からなることを特徴とする請求項1記載の二重織デニム。   2. The double woven denim according to claim 1, wherein the lining is made of synthetic filament yarn or spun yarn. 前記裏地が綿より保水性の低い繊維であることを特徴とする請求項1又は2記載の二重織デニム。   The double woven denim according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the lining is a fiber having a lower water retention than cotton. 前記裏地が経糸、緯糸ともにポリエステル糸であることを特徴とする請求項3記載の二重織デニム。   4. The double woven denim according to claim 3, wherein the lining is a polyester yarn for both warp and weft. 前記表地と裏地の各経糸と緯糸とを合計した重量比が、1:1〜3:1であることを特徴とする請求項1から4のいずれかに記載の二重織デニム。   The double woven denim according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein a total weight ratio of the warp and weft of the outer material and the lining material is 1: 1 to 3: 1.
JP2003418822A 2003-12-17 2003-12-17 Double woven denim Expired - Fee Related JP3891983B2 (en)

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CN107460604A (en) * 2017-08-31 2017-12-12 钱逍敏 Jacquard weave clipping and carving denim fabric
JP2020152039A (en) * 2019-03-22 2020-09-24 株式会社アン・ドゥー Cool feeling fabric and cloth product
CN114044261A (en) * 2021-12-02 2022-02-15 广东溢达纺织有限公司 Degradable environment-friendly shopping bag and manufacturing method thereof

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