JP2005082589A - Cosmetic makeup composition for thickening and/or separating keratin fiber - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a makeup composition for making up a keratin fiber, for example, eyelashes, eyebrows and hair, especially, the eyelashes. <P>SOLUTION: This cosmetic composition for making up the keratin fiber has a solid content of 45.5 wt% or more, has a horizontal modulus of rigidity G<SB>p</SB>of 5,500 Pa or more and less than 60,000 Pa, and is obtained by combining at least one ionic surfactant and at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 8 or more at 25°C. It is possible in the composition to markedly increase the solid content of the composition for making up the keratin fiber, especially, a wax content thereof and, on the other hand, to simultaneously maintain satisfactory rheological characteristics, especially, characteristics related to deformation possibility and consistency in a static state on condition that a specified emulsifying system is selected. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to makeup of keratin fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows and hair, in particular eyelash makeup.

Eye makeup compositions, also known as eyelash mascara or eyelid eyeliner, generally consist of a wax or mixture of waxes dispersed in an aqueous phase using at least one surfactant, and further comprising a water-soluble polymer. And pigments.
The desired application properties for the makeup composition, such as its flowability, covering power and / or curling power, are generally adjusted by selecting the quality and quantity of wax and polymer. In this way, various compositions can be produced that induce various effects, such as stretching, curling and / or thickening action (thickening action), especially when applied to eyelashes.
The present invention is particularly directed to proposing a composition useful for producing a thick cosmetic effect on keratin fibers, particularly eyelashes, which is also known as a concentrated makeup. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin fibers” includes hair, eyelashes and eyebrows and extends to artificial wigs and false eyelashes.
For currently available makeup compositions, this effect is generally obtained by overlaying several coatings of the makeup composition on keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes. Furthermore, in the specific case of eyelashes, it is very often associated with the eyelashes being assembled together, i.e. the unindividualization of the eyelashes.

For obvious reasons, it is advantageous to obtain this thickening effect in a single application while at the same time obtaining a good separation of the eyelashes.
To do so, a makeup composition is provided that allows the dry matter to concentrate sufficiently from the very first contact with the makeup composition to significantly thicken the eyelashes and to separate and coat the individual eyelashes. It is particularly advantageous to be available.
Standard eye makeup compositions conventionally have a solids content of 10% to 40% by weight. If it is desired to increase this solid content beyond this value, the problem of lack of fluidity is quickly encountered. When applied, the makeup composition becomes too thick and no longer has the deformability necessary for it to be uniformly applied to the entire surface of the eyelashes.

The inventors have unexpectedly increased the solids content of makeup compositions for keratin fibers, in particular their wax content, while at the same time satisfying rheological properties, in particular deformability and resting consistency. It has been found that it is possible to retain the properties with respect to the selection of a specific emulsification system.
Advantageously, the claimed composition can be applied with keratin fibers, particularly eyelashes with a brush or comb, despite the increased amount of dry matter compared to conventional compositions. composition horizontal shear modulus G _p suitable for modification necessary to uniformly apply hold.

Thus, in accordance with an aspect of the present invention, the subject of the present invention is a solid content of 45.5% by weight or higher and a horizontal stiffness G _p not exceeding 55,000 Pa and greater than 60,000 Pa. A composition for making up keratin fibers, characterized in that the composition combines at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant having a HLB of 8 and greater .
The present invention is further directed to a makeup method for the fibers, characterized in that the composition according to the invention is applied to keratin fibers.
The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention to obtain a thickening and, where appropriate, a separate make-up effect, on keratin fibres, in particular eyelashes and eyebrows.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “densification” is intended to mean the concept of dark eye makeup.
By using a specific emulsification system in these compositions, a large horizontal rigidity, ie 5,500 Pa or higher, in particular 7,000 Pa or higher and 45.5% by weight or higher, Furthermore, it was found that it was possible to produce a makeup composition having a solids content of 48% by weight or higher, which was unexpected.
In particular, the composition according to the invention has a horizontal modulus of less than 60,000 Pa, which gives the composition sufficient deformability to apply the composition to the surface to be made up.

Characteristics of solid inclusions Solid contents, ie non-volatile inclusions, can be measured in various ways; examples that may be mentioned include: oven drying methods, drying methods by exposure to infrared radiation, and Chemical method by titration of water according to Calf Fisher.
The solid content, what is commonly referred to as the “dry extract” of the composition according to the invention, is measured by heating the sample with infrared radiation, preferably having a wavelength of 2 μm to 3.5 μm. By the action of this irradiation, the substance having a high vapor pressure contained in the composition of the present invention evaporates. By measuring the decrease in the mass of the sample, the “dry extract” of the composition can be determined. These measurements are performed using a commercially available infrared desiccator LP16 from Mettler. This technology is fully described in the instrument documentation provided by METTLER.
The measurement procedure is as follows:
Spread about 1 g of the composition into a metal crucible. The crucible is introduced into a desiccator and then placed at a specified temperature of 120 ° C. for 1 hour. The wet mass of the sample corresponding to the initial mass and the dry mass of the sample corresponding to the mass after irradiation are measured using a precision balance.
The solids content is calculated as follows:
Dry extract = 100 × (dry mass / wet mass)
The composition according to the invention is characterized by a solids content of 45.5% by weight or more, in particular 48% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention is further characterized by a solids content of 85% by weight or less, in particular 75% by weight or less, even 65% by weight or less.

Rheological properties The compositions according to the invention are characterized by viscoelastic behavior.
In general, a substance is viscous under the action of shear deformation when it has both the properties of a pure elastic body, i.e. the ability to store energy and the characteristic of a pure viscous body, i.e. the ability to disperse energy. It is said to be elastic.
More particularly, the viscoelastic behavior of a composition according to the invention can be characterized by its modulus G, its elasticity δ and its critical flow τ _c ; these parameters are “Initiation a la rheologie” , G. Couarraze and JL Grossiord, 2nd edition, 1991, Lavoisier-Tec 1 Doc.
These parameters were determined by measurements made using a Haake RheoStress 600® stress-controlled rheometer from ThermoRheo at 25 ° C. ± 0.5 ° C., the rheometer being a plate / plate structure Stainless steel rotor, which has a diameter of 20 mm and a gap of 0.3 mm (distance between a lower plate known as the stator plate and an upper plate known as the rotor plate). The two plates are narrowly grooved to limit the sliding phenomenon to the plate walls.

Dynamic measurements are made by applying coordinated changes in stress. In these experiments, the magnitude of the shear force, shear rate and stress is small (conditions for evaluating the rheological properties of the composition at rest) so that the material stays within the limits of the linear viscoelastic region.
The linear viscoelastic region is generally defined by the fact that the response (ie, deformation) of a material is directly proportional to the value of applied force (ie, stress) at any point in time. In this region, the applied stress is small and the material is deformed without changing its microscopic structure. Under these conditions, the material is tested “at rest” and non-destructively.
The composition is subjected to a harmonic shear force according to a stress τ (t) that varies in the form of a sine wave according to the pulse ω (ω = 2Πν, where ν is the frequency of the applied shear force). A composition subjected to a shearing force in this way receives a stress τ (t) and responds according to a deformation γ (t) corresponding to a microdeformation, and the rigidity changes slightly as a function of the stress applied to the microdeformation. To do.

Stress τ (t) and deformation γ (t) are respectively defined by the following relational expressions:
τ (t) = τ ₀ cos (ω · t) γ (t) = γ ₀ cos (ω · t−δ)
τ ₀ is the maximum amplitude of stress and γ ₀ is the maximum amplitude of deformation. δ is an angle out of phase between stress and deformation.
The measurement is performed at a frequency of 1 Hz (ν = 1 Hz).
This as a function of applied stress τ (t) as a function of changes in stiffness G (corresponding to the ratio of τ ₀ to γ ₀ ) and elasticity δ (corresponding to the angle of the applied stress to the measured deformation out of phase) Measure as follows.
The deformation of the composition is measured in particular for a stress region (minor deformation zone) where the change in the modulus G and elasticity δ is less than 7%, thus determining the “horizontal” parameters G _p and δ _p . The critical stress τ _c (corresponding to the minimum force applied to cause the composition to flow) is determined from the curve of δ = f (τ) and this is δ (τ _c ) = 1 corresponds to the value of .05δ _p become τ.

The viscoelastic behavior of the composition according to the invention is characterized by a horizontal stiffness G _p of 5,500 Pa or greater, which may in particular be 7,000 Pa or greater.
In particular, the composition according to the invention has a horizontal stiffness G _p of 60,000 Pa or less, even 50,000 Pa or less, in particular 40,000 Pa or less, and even 30,000 Pa or less. .
Furthermore, the composition according to the invention can have a horizontal elasticity δ _p which can be in the range of 1 ° to 45 °, even 5 ° to 30 °.
The composition according to the invention can further have a limiting flow τ _c in the range of 5 Pa to 3,500 Pa, preferably 20 Pa to 1,000 Pa, which means that the composition according to the invention does not flow under its own weight. , Meaning that it is necessary to apply minimal stress to the composition in order to make it flow.

Wax Compositions according to the invention include those in the form of waxes or wax mixtures, especially aqueous suspensions of wax particles.
For the purposes of the present invention, the wax or wax mixture present in the composition according to the invention is referred to as the general term “wax phase”.
The waxes of interest in accordance with the present invention are generally fat-soluble compounds, which are solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and are capable of reversible state change of solids / liquids, 30 ° C. or higher Having a melting point, which can be up to 120 ° C.
By making the wax in liquid form (melting), the wax can be mixed with the oil and a microscopically uniform mixture can be formed, but by cooling the mixture to room temperature, the wax in the oil mixture Recrystallization is obtained.
In particular, waxes suitable for the present invention can have a melting point above about 45 ° C, in particular above 55 ° C.

The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.
The measurement procedure is as follows:
A sample of 15 mg of product placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase in the range from 0 ° C. to 120 ° C. at a heating rate of 10 ° C./min and then from 120 ° C. to 0 ° C. at a cooling rate of 10 ° C./min. And a second temperature increase is finally performed in the range from 0 ° C. to 120 ° C. at a heating rate of 5 ° C./min. During the second temperature rise, the change in the difference between the energy absorbed by the empty crucible and the energy absorbed by the crucible containing the product sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of a compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the curve peak representing the change in the difference in energy absorbed as a function of temperature.
The wax that can be used in the composition according to the invention is selected from waxes solid and solidified at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and mixtures thereof.

The wax may further have a hardness in the range of 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, preferably 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive strength measured at 20 ° C. using a texturometer, which is sold under the name TA-XT2i by Rheo and It has a 2 mm diameter stainless steel tube that moves at a measuring speed of 1 mm / s and penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
The measurement procedure is as follows:
Melt the wax at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 ° C. The molten wax is cast into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours and then stored at 20 ° C. for at least 1 hour before taking hardness measurements. The hardness value is the measured compressive strength divided by the area of the technometer cylinder in contact with the wax.
The following can be used in particular: waxes based on hydrocarbons such as beeswax, lanolin wax and owl; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax espal Esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, wax and mole; montan wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin and ozokerite; polyethylene wax, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropish synthesis and waxy copolymers, and their ester.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.
Among these oils, mention may be made in particular of: hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil, eg trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, Iso-Jojoba-50 (registered) Manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade name of Trademark), hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, bis (1,1 , 1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate marketed under the name “Hest 2T-4S” by Heterene and bis (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate. And marketed under the name Hest 2T-4B by Heterene.
Mention may also be made of silicone waxes and fluoro waxes.
Wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol marketed under the name “Phytowax Olive 18 L 57” by the company Sophim or marketed under the name “Phytowax Ricin 16L64 and 22L73” Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol. These waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190.
The composition according to the invention generally comprises from 0.1% to 40% by weight of one or more waxes, in particular from 5% to 40%, in particular from 20% to 40%, based on the total weight of the composition. It is possible to include 30% by mass to 40% by mass.
The wax or wax mixture is present in the composition according to the invention in particular in the form of an aqueous suspension, and the size of these wax particles is expressed as the average “effective” diameter D [4.3] according to the volume defined below. Expressed advantageously, it is 1 μm or less.
Wax particles have various forms. These can in particular be spherical.

式中、Ｖ_iは有効直径ｄ_iを有する粒子の容量を表す。このパラメーターは特に粒度分析器の技術文書に記載されている。 Particle size characteristics Particle size can be measured by various techniques; in particular, light scattering technology (dynamic and static), Coulter counter method, sedimentation velocity measurement method (measurement related to the Stokes law size) ) And microscopy. These techniques make it possible to measure the particle diameter and in some cases the particle size distribution.
The particle size and particle size distribution of the composition according to the invention is preferably measured by static light scattering using a commercially available granulometer such as Malvern's MasterSizer 2000. Data is processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory is for isotropic particles, which allows the “effective” particle size in non-spherical particles to be determined. This theory is described in particular in the Van de Hulst, HC publication “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
The composition is characterized by an average “effective” diameter D [4.3] with a volume defined as follows:

Where V _i represents the volume of particles having an effective diameter d _i . This parameter is described in particular in the technical documentation of the particle size analyzer.

The diluted particle dispersion obtained from the composition is measured at 25 ° C. as follows: 1) dilute 100 times with water, 2) homogenize the solution, 3) leave the solution for 18 hours. 4) Collect a slightly white uniform supernatant.
By taking a refractive index of 1.33 for water and an average refractive index of 1.42 for the particles, an “effective” diameter is obtained.
The wax particles of the wax phase in the composition according to the invention, expressed in terms of the average “effective” diameter D [4.3] by volume, have a size of 1 μm or less, in particular 0.75 μm or less, Characterized by 0.55 μm or smaller.
The size of the particles is mainly related to the nature of the emulsification system used to produce the dispersion.

Emulsifying system According to the present invention, an emulsifier appropriately selected to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion is generally used. Specifically, an emulsifier having an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) at 25 ° C. of 8 or more, as used in Griffin, is used.
The HLB value by Griffin is specified in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (Vol. 5), pages 249-256.
The composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifying surfactant which is present in particular in a ratio in the range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, furthermore from 0.5% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In particular it can be included.
These surfactants can be selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants or emulsifying surfactants. “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer” 3rd edition, 1979, Vol. 22, pp. 333-432, Wiley, literature on surfactant properties and (emulsification) function. With regard to the definition, mention may be made in particular of this document of pages 347 to 377 regarding anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.
In accordance with the present invention, the emulsification system comprises at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant having an HLB of 8 or greater at 25 ° C. and, where appropriate, at least one gel. In combination with a polymerizable polymer.

Nonionic surfactants having an HLB of 8 or greater As examples of nonionic surfactants having an HLB of 8 or greater at 25 ° C. that can be used alone or as a mixture in a makeup composition according to the present invention: May include, but is not limited to:
-Oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers of glycerol (can contain 1-150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups);
Oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers of fatty alcohols (especially C8-C24, preferably C12-C18 alcohols), which can contain 1 to 150 oxyethylene groups and / or oxypropylene groups), For example, an oxyethylenated cethearyl alcohol ether containing 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name “Ceteareth-30”) and an oxyethylenated ether of a C12-C15 fatty alcohol mixture containing 7 oxyethylene groups (Shell Chemical Chemicals), the CTFA name “C12-15 Pareth-7” marketed under the name “Neodol 25-7®”);

-Fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol (which can contain from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units) (especially C8 to C24, preferably C16 to C22 acids), for example sold under the name Myrj 52P by the company ICI Uniqema. PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate;
-Fatty acid esters (especially C8-C24, preferably C16-C22 acids) of oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glyceryl ethers (which can contain 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups), for example PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name “Simulsol 220 ™”; glyceryl stearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, eg marketed by the company Goldschmidt Product Tagat S, glyceryl oleate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Tagat O marketed by Goldschmidt, Inc., glyceryl cocoate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as shellet Products Varionic LI 13, marketed by the company Shex, glyceryl isostearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Tagat L marketed by the company Goldschmidt and 30 ethylene oxide groups Polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate, for example the product Tagat I marketed by the company Goldschmidt;

-Fatty acid esters (especially C8-C24, preferably C16-C22 acids) of oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which can contain 1-150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups), for example Polysorbate 60 sold under the name “Tween 60” by the company Uniqema;
A dimethicone copolyol, for example the product marketed under the name “Q2-5220” by the company Dow Corning,
-Dimethicone copolyol benzoate (Finesolv SLB 101 and 201 by Finetex),
-Copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, also known as EO / PO polycondensates,
-And mixtures thereof.

The EO / PO polycondensate is more particularly a copolymer composed of polyethylene glycol blocks and polypropylene glycol blocks, for example polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates. These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure:
_{H- (O-CH 2 -CH 2} ) a - (O-CH (CH 3) -CH 2) b - (O-CH 2 -CH 2) a -OH
In the formula, a is in the range of 2 to 120, and b is in the range of 1 to 100.
The EO / PO polycondensate preferably has a weight average molecular weight in the range of 1,000 to 15,000, even 2,000 to 13,000. Advantageously, the EO / PO polycondensate has a cloud point of 20 ° C. or higher, preferably 60 ° C. or higher, at a concentration of 10 g / l in distilled water. The cloud point is measured according to ISO standard 1065. The EO / PO polycondensates that can be used according to the invention include the following: marketed by ICI under the name “Synperonic”, for example “Synperonic PE / L44” and “Synperonic PE / F127” A polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensate.

One or more nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25 ° C. can be combined with nonionic surfactants with an HLB of 8 or greater, where appropriate.
Examples of these agents with an HLB less than 8 at 25 ° C. may include, but are not limited to, the following:
-Saccharide esters and ethers such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate and sorbitan stearate, and mixtures thereof such as Arlatone 2121 marketed by the company ICI;
-Fatty acid esters of polyols, especially glycerol or sorbitol (especially C8-C24, preferably C16-C22 acids), such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate, such as marketed under the name Tegin M by the company Goldschmidt Products, glyceryl laurate, for example the product sold under the name Imwitor 312 by the company Huels, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate or glyceryl ricinolate;
A mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol marketed under the name “Q2-3225C” by Dow Corning.
The amount of nonionic surfactant is generally adjusted so as to obtain a composition having the parameters defined above. It is within the ability of one skilled in the art to determine this amount.
As an illustration of the scope of the present invention, this amount of nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 8 or greater is 0.01% to 40% by weight, in particular 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It is within the range of ˜25% by mass, further 0.5% by mass to 15% by mass, and 0.5% by mass to 10% by mass, but is not limited thereto.

Ionic Surfactants The ionic surfactants used in the context of the present invention can be anionic or cationic. However, it is generally preferred to select at least one anionic surfactant.
As examples of anionic surfactants suitable for the present invention, the following may be mentioned in more detail:
C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acid salts, in particular those derived from amines, such as triethanolamine stearate;
-Polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts, especially those derived from amines or alkali metal salts, and mixtures thereof;
-Phosphate esters and their salts, such as "DEA oleth-10 phosphate" (Crodafos N 10N from Croda);
-Sulfosuccinates such as "disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate" and "disodium ricinoleamide MEA sulfosuccinate";
-Alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;
-Isethionate;
-Acyl glutamate, for example "disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (Amisoft HS-21 R marketed by Ajinomoto), and mixtures thereof.

Triethanolamine stearate is most suitable for the present invention. The surfactant is generally obtained by simply mixing stearic acid and triethanolamine.
Examples of cationic surfactants that may be specifically mentioned include the following:
-Alkyl imidazolidinium, such as isostearylethyliminium ethosulphate,
An ammonium salt, such as N, N, N-trimethyl-1-docosaminium chloride (behentrimonium chloride).
The composition according to the invention further comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acyl amino acids such as N-alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide or silicone surfactants such as Dimethicone copolyol phosphate may include, for example, the product marketed under the name “Pecosil PS 100” by the company Phoenix Chemical.
In general, the composition according to the invention is 0.01% to 30% by weight, in particular 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Ionic surfactants can be included.

Gelling polymer The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one gelling polymer.
According to the present invention, the term “gelling polymer” means a polymer capable of gelling the continuous phase, generally the aqueous phase, of the composition according to the present invention.
Gelable polymers that can be used according to the invention can form gels in water above a certain concentration C ^* , characterized by vibrational rheology (ν = 1 Hz) with a critical flow τ _c equal to at least 10 Pa. It can be particularly characterized by being. This concentration can vary widely depending on the nature of the gelling agent of interest.
By way of example, this concentration is between 1% and 2% by weight for an acrylamide / sodium 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonate copolymer as a 40% inverse emulsion in polysorbate 80 / I-C16, for example this product is Sepic ( About 0.5% by weight for the AMPS / ethoxylated (25EO) cetearyl methacrylate copolymer cross-linked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA), marketed by the company SEPPIC) under the name “Simulgel 600” .

The gelling polymer can be a water-soluble polymer and therefore exists in dissolved form in the aqueous phase of the composition.
This gelling polymer can be selected in more detail from:
-Homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or salts or esters thereof, in particular the product marketed under the names "Versicol F" or "Versicol K" by the company Allied Colloid, Ciba-Geigy ) A product marketed by the company under the name “Ultrahold 8”, and Synthalen K-type polyacrylic acid;
-A copolymer of acrylic acid and acrylamide in the form of a sodium salt marketed under the name "Reten" by Hercules, sodium marketed under the name "Darvan 7" by Vanderbilt Polymethacrylate and sodium salt of polyhydroxycarboxylic acid marketed under the name “Hydagen F” by the company Henkel;
A Pemulen type polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymer;
-AMPS (polyacrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid highly crosslinked and partially neutralized with ammonia) marketed by the company Clariant;
-AMPS / acrylamide copolymers of the Sepigel or Simulgel type marketed by the company SEPPIC and-AMPS / polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymers (cross-linked or non-cross-linked) , And mixtures thereof.

Other examples of water-soluble gelling polymers include:
-Proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as wheat or soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins such as keratin hydrolysates and sulphonic keratins;
An anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymer;
-Cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, further quaternized cellulose derivatives;
-Vinyl polymers such as polyvinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;

-Polymers of natural origin which may optionally be modified, for example:
-Gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives and karaya gum;
-Alginate and carrageenan;
-Glycosaminoglycans, and hyaluronic acid and its derivatives;
-Shellac resin, sandalak gum, dammer resin, elemi gum and copal resin;
-Deoxyribonucleic acid;
-Mucopolysaccharides, such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
The gelling polymer is generally present in the composition in an amount sufficient to adjust the stiffness to a value of 5,500 Pa or greater, or 7,000 Pa or greater.
In this case, the gelling polymer is 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, as solids content in the composition according to the invention. It can be present in the range of mass%, more preferably 1 mass% to 30 mass%, and still more preferably 5 mass% to 20 mass%.
This amount varies further as a function of the amount of ionic and nonionic surfactants, and the polymer is combined with a film forming agent that itself can also affect the consistency of the composition. It should be understood that there is a tendency to change further according to whether or not.

Film former The composition according to the present invention may further comprise a film former.
According to the present invention, the term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film that adheres to a support, in particular to a keratin material, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent. .
Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of: free radical or polycondensation type synthetic polymers, and polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
The free radical type film-forming polymer can in particular be a vinyl polymer or copolymer, in particular an acrylic polymer.
Vinyl-based film-forming polymers, ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers, for example α, β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids, For example, it can be obtained from the polymerization of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or itaconic acid.
The vinyl-based film-forming polymer is further homopolymerized with monomers selected from vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate and styrene monomers such as styrene and α-methylstyrene or It can be obtained from copolymerization.
Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethane, polyester, polyesteramide, polyamide and polyurea.

Polymers of natural origin that may be optionally modified can be selected from the following: shellac resin, sandalak gum, dammer resin, elemi gum, copal resin and cellulose based polymers, and mixtures thereof.
The film-forming polymer can be present in the form of particles in an aqueous dispersion and these are generally known as latex or pseudolatex. Techniques for making these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
Aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymers that can be used include: Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090® by Avecia-Neoresins. ), Neocryl BT-62 (registered trademark), Neocryl A-1079 (registered trademark) and Neocryl A-523 (registered trademark), and Dow Latex 432 (registered trademark) by Dow Chemical Company. Acrylic dispersion marketed under the name and marketed by Daito Kasey Kogyo under the name Daitosol 5000 AD®; Neorez R-981® by Avecia-Neoresins ) And Neorez R-974 (registered trademark), and sold by Goodrich, Avalure UR-405 (registered trademark), Avalure UR-410 (registered trademark), Avalure UR-425 (registered trademark), Avalure UR-450 (registered trademark), Sancure 8 75 (registered trademark), Sancure 861 (registered trademark), Sancure 878 (registered trademark) and Sancure 2060 (registered trademark), marketed under the name Impranil 85 (registered trademark) by the company Bayer, An aqueous dispersion of polyurethane marketed under the name Aquamere H-1511® by Hydromer; a sulfopolyester marketed under the name Eastman AQ by Eastman Chemical Products .
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise an auxiliary film forming agent that promotes the formation of the film with the film forming polymer.

Physiologically Acceptable Medium The composition according to the invention is generally based on water or an aqueous medium, ie a mixture of at least one organic solvent and water.
Thus, the aqueous medium of the composition is a water-miscible organic solvent, such as lower monoalcohols containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, can contain a mixture of C ₃ -C ₄ ketones and C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes and water. The aqueous medium (water and any water miscible organic solvent) may actually be present from 5% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the additive claim may further comprise components commonly used in the field of keratin fiber makeup.
The composition according to the invention can in particular comprise one or more oils.
The oil can be selected from volatile and / or non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof. The composition advantageously comprises at least one volatile oil.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “volatile oil” means an oil that can evaporate in less than one hour when in contact with the skin or keratinous fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent and volatile oil of the present invention are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly in the range of 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^{−3 to} 300 mmHg), A volatile organic solvent and cosmetic oil having a vapor pressure in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), more preferably in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). is there.
The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and in particular has a vapor pressure lower than 0.13 Pa (10 ⁻³ mmHg).
These oils can be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils or fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

  The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally containing oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus atoms. Oils based on volatile hydrocarbons can be selected from the following: oils based on hydrocarbons containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C8 to C16 alkanes such as C8 to C16 of petroleum origin Commercially available under the trade name isoalkane (also known as isoparaffin), for example isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for example Isopar or Permetyl Oils, branched C8-C16 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by the Shell company, can also be used. The volatile solvent is preferably selected from oils based on volatile hydrocarbons containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

Further volatile oils that can be used include: volatile silicones, such as volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ≦ 8 × 10 ⁻⁶ m ² / s (8 centistokes). Those containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones can optionally contain alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples of volatile silicones that can be used in the present invention include the following: octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl. Trisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
Volatile fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane can also be used.
Volatile oil is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Can do.
The composition may further comprise at least one non-volatile oil specifically selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and / or silicone oils and / or fluoro oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be mentioned in particular include:
-Oils based on plant-derived hydrocarbons, for example triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, where the fatty acids can have a variable chain length of C4 to C24, these chains being linear or branched And may be saturated or unsaturated, and these oils are especially wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, karate oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean Oil, lentil oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, mallow oil, black currant oil, oat evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye Oil, safflower oil, cedar oil, passiflora oil and musk rose oil; or cap Lylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Sterineries Dubois or Dynamite Nobel, marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818,
-Synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
-Linear or branched hydrocarbons of inorganic or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as pearl lam and squalene, and mixtures thereof;

Synthetic esters, for example oils of the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , wherein R ₁ represents a straight-chain or branched fatty acid residue containing ₁ to 40 carbon atoms, and R ₂ is especially branched containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms. In which R ₅ + R ₆ ≧ 10, such as perserine oil (cetostearyl octanote), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, hexyl laur Rate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoate, dodecanoate or ricinoleate, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated ester, such as iso Stearyl lactate and di Isostearoyl allyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;
A fatty alcohol which is liquid at room temperature, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, containing branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chains containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;
-Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; and-mixtures thereof.

Non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the composition according to the invention can be: non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups, in which case these Are groups branched from the silicone chain and / or their end groups, each of which contains 2 to 24 carbon atoms and is phenylsilicone such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl Siloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate.
The fluoro oils that can be used in the present invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers or fluorosilicones, which are described in document EP-A-847 752.
The non-volatile oil is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Can exist.

The composition can further comprise other ingredients commonly used in cosmetics. These components can be in particular the following well known in the prior art: coalescers, fillers, dyes such as pigments, nacres or fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes, goniochromatic coloring agents, preservatives, oils, Wetting agents and fragrances, and mixtures thereof.
The pigments may be white or colored and may be inorganic and / or organic; they are insoluble in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition. Among the inorganic pigments, mention may be made of: titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide which may optionally be surface treated, iron oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydration And ferric blue, and mixtures thereof. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of: carbon black, D & C type pigments, lakes based on cochineal carmine or barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum, and mixtures thereof. It is further possible to use glass particles coated with pigments having a specific optical action, such as metals, in particular gold, silver and platinum.

Nacres or pearl pigments are nacreous particles, made or synthesized specifically in some mollusc shells and insoluble in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition. Mica coated with white pearl pigments such as titanium oxychloride or bismuth, colored pearl pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxide, in particular titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium with organic pigments of the above type It can be selected from mica, pearl pigments mainly composed of bismuth oxychloride, and mixtures thereof. Interference pigments, in particular liquid crystals or multilayer interference pigments, can also be used.
The staining agent can be present in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 25% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Fillers can be selected from those well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The filler is inorganic or organic and can be lamellar or spherical. The following may be mentioned: talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powder, such as nylon® (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene Polymer powders such as Teflon powder, lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industry Industry)), acrylic powders such as Polytrap® (Dow Corning), polymethylmethacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads (eg Tospearls® from Toshiba), precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonic acid Magnesi And magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Maprecos Silica Beads®), glass or ceramic microcapsules, 8-22 carbon atoms, preferably 12-18 Metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.
The filler can be present in an amount of 0.1% to 25% by weight, and further 1% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention can further comprise fibers that allow an improved stretch effect.
The term “fiber” should be understood to mean an object having a length L and D that are much larger than the diameter D, where D is the diameter of the circle in which the cross section of the fiber is inscribed. is there. In particular, the L / D ratio (or shape factor) is selected from the range of 3.5 to 2,500, in particular 5 to 500, and further 5 to 150.
The fibers that can be used in the composition of the invention can be inorganic or organic fibers of synthetic or natural origin. These may be short or long, may be individual or grouped, for example knitted, and may be hollow or solid. These can take any form and in particular have a circular or polygonal (square, hexagonal or octagonal) cross section, depending on the specific application intended. In particular, their ends are rounded and / or polished to avoid danger.
In particular, the fibers have a length of 1 μm to 10 mm, preferably 0.1 mm to 5 mm, more preferably 1 mm to 3.5 mm. The cross section can be in a circle having a diameter in the range of 2 nm to 500 μm, preferably 100 nm to 100 μm, more preferably 1 μm to 50 μm. The mass or count of the fiber is often expressed in denier or decitex, which represents the mass per 9 km of yarn. In particular, the fibers can have a count selected from the range of 0.15 to 30 denier, more preferably 0.18 to 18 denier.

The fibers can be those used for the production of textiles, in particular the following: silk fibers, cotton fibers, wool fibers, flax fibers, in particular cellulose fibers extracted from wood, plants or algae, rayon fibers, polyamides ( Nylon (R) fiber, viscose fiber, acetate fiber, especially rayon acetate fiber, poly (p-phenylene terephthalamide) (or aramid) fiber, especially Kevlar (R) fiber, acrylic polymer fiber, especially Polymethylmethacrylate fiber or poly (2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) fiber, polyolefin fiber and especially polyethylene or polypropylene fiber, glass fiber, silica fiber, carbon fiber, especially fiber in the form of graphite, polytetrafluoroethylene (eg Teflon®) )) Fiber, insoluble coller Fiber, polyester fiber, polyvinyl chloride fiber or polyvinylidene chloride fiber, polyvinyl alcohol fiber, polyacrylonitrile fiber, chitosan fiber, polyurethane fiber, polyethylene phthalate fiber, fiber made from a mixture of polymers as described above, eg polyamide / polyester fiber.
Fibers used in surgery, such as: Resorbable synthetic fibers made from glycolic acid and caprolactone (Monocryl from Johnson &Johnson); copolymers of lactic acid and glycolic acid Types of resorbable synthetic fibers (Vicryl from Johnson &Johnson); polyterephthalate fiber (Ethibond from Johnson & Johnson) and stainless steel threads (Johnson & Johnson ( Johnson & Johnson) Acier).

Further, the surface of the fiber may or may not be treated, and the fiber may or may not be coated.
In particular, fibers of synthetic origin, in particular organic fibers, such as those used in surgery, are used. Fibers that are insoluble in water can be advantageously used.
The fibers that can be used in the composition according to the invention are in particular polyamide fibers, cellulose fibers, poly (p-phenylene terephthalamide) fibers or polyethylene fibers. Their length (L) can be from 0.1 mm to 5 mm, in particular from 0.25 mm to 1.6 mm, and the average diameter can be from 1 μm to 50 μm. In particular, Establishment P. Polyamide fibers marketed by Etablissements P. Bonte under the name “Polyamide 0.9 Dtex 3 mm” can be used, which have an average diameter of 6 μm, a count of about 0.9 dtex and a range of 0.3 mm to 5 mm Has a length of Cellulose (or rayon) fibers having an average diameter of 50 μm and a length in the range of 0.5 mm to 6 mm can also be used, for example, “Natural rayon flock fiber RC1BE-N003 by Claremont Flock. -M04 ”is commercially available. Polyethylene fibers such as those sold under the name “Shurt Stuff 13 099 F” by the company Mini Fibers can also be used.

The composition according to the invention can further comprise “hard” fibers as opposed to the fibers described above that are not hard fibers.
Stiff fibers are initially substantially straight and do not undergo substantial morphological changes when placed in a dispersion medium.
The stiff fibers can be selected from synthetic polymer fibers selected from polyesters, polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, polyolefins, polyamides, in particular non-aromatic polyamides, and aromatic polyimide amides.
Examples of stiff fibers that can be mentioned include:
-Polyester fibers, such as those obtained by chopping yarn, sold under the following name by DuPont de Nemours: Fiber 255-100-R11-242T Taille 3 MM (8-leaf section), Fiber 265-34-R11-56T Taille 3 MM (round section) and Fiber Coolmax 50-34-591 Taille 3 MM (four-leaf section);
-Polyamide fibers, such as: those sold under the names Trilobal Nylon 0.120-1.8 DPF, Trilobal Nylon 0.120-18 DPF, Nylon 0.120-6 DPF by the company Cellusuede Products; or Dupont de Obtained by chopping a yarn sold under the name Fiber Nomex Brand 430 Taille 3 MM by the company Nemours;

-Polyimide amide fibers, such as those marketed under the names "Kermel" and "Kermel Tech" by the company RHODIA;
-Poly (p-phenylene terephthalamide) (or aramid) sold under the name Kevlar (R) by the company DuPont de Nemours;
-Fibers having a multilayer structure comprising alternating layers of polymers selected from polyesters, acrylic polymers and polyamides, for example in documents EP-A-6 921 217, EP-A-686 858 and US-A-5,472,798 What is listed. These fibers are marketed under the names "Morphotex" and "Teijin Tetron Morphotex" by Teijin.
A particularly advantageous stiff fiber is an aromatic polyimideamide fiber.
Polyimide amide yarns or fibers that can be used in the composition according to the invention are described, for example, in the following literature: R. Pigeon and P. Allard, Chimie Macromoleculaire Appliquee, 40 / 41 (1974), pages 139-158 (No. 600), or US-A-3,802,841, FR-A-2 079 785, EP-A1-0 360 728 and EP-A-0 549 494.

In particular, the aromatic polyimideamide fiber can be a polyimideamide fiber comprising a repeating unit of the following formula obtained by polycondensation of tolylene diisocyanate and trimellitic anhydride:

The fibers can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
It goes without saying that the person skilled in the art takes care to add one or more of these components and / or amounts thereof so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not adversely affected or substantially affected by the intended addition. Will choose.
The composition according to the invention can further comprise, for example, the following general auxiliaries: fragrances, preservatives, basifying or acidifying agents, texturing agents, spreading agents, plasticizers and keratin fibers Water-soluble active ingredient commonly used in cosmetic formulations.

Method of preparation The compositions according to the invention are generally obtained in a conventional manner by high temperature formation of emulsions.
More particularly, one or more surfactants and waxes of interest with HLB ≦ 8 are heated to a temperature above the melting point of the wax but not higher than 100 ° C. to completely melt the wax, then suitable In some cases, water is added and a gelling polymer and / or a surfactant with HLB> 8 is gradually added to bring it to a temperature at least equal to said temperature and stirred until it reaches room temperature.
A fat-soluble component, such as ceramide, is generally added to the wax before the emulsion is made.
Water soluble components can be added to the water used to make the emulsion, or to the finally obtained emulsion.
Similarly, secondary components, optionally present in the composition, are optionally added to either the starting material or the finished composition.
The composition of the present invention can be applied to the eyelashes using a brush or a comb.
The thickening action desired in the present invention can be further enhanced by specifically selecting the device to which the composition is applied.
In this case, applying the composition with a makeup brush described in patents FR 2 701 198, FR 2 605 505, EP 792 603 and EP 663 161 is particularly advantageous when making up the eyelashes.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention and do not limit the invention.
The amounts shown are mass percentages unless otherwise indicated and are expressed relative to the total mass of the composition.
Rheological measurements were performed using a Haake RheoStress 600 stress controlled rheometer under the following conditions:
Measuring temperature 25 ° C,
Leave at steady state for 180 seconds at 25 ° C before starting the measurement,
Stress sweep 1 to 10,000 Pa,
Measurement frequency: 1Hz.
The gelling polymers and surfactants used were as follows:
Hydroxyethyl cellulose quaternized with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, marketed under the name “Ucare Polymer JR 400” by Amerchol (Dow Chemical),
Hydroxyethyl cellulose sold under the name “Cellobond HEC 5000 A” by Brenntag,
25% aqueous solution of unstabilized sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name “Darvan 7” by the company Vanderbilt,
50% aqueous dispersion of ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate cross-linked copolymer (80/20) marketed by the company Daito under the name “Daitosol 5000 AD”
Polysorbate 80 / I-C16 40% inverse emulsion of acrylamide / sodium 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonate copolymer, marketed under the name “Simulgel 600” by SEPPIC,
Oxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate (200 EO), marketed under the name “Simulsol” by SEPPIC
Oxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate (30 EO) marketed under the name “Tagat S” by the company Degussa / Goldschmidt,
AMPS / ethoxylated (25 EO) cetearyl methacrylate copolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).
Triethanolamine stearate is prepared in situ by mixing stearic acid and 99% triethanolamine.

The following mascara formulations were prepared:
Formula A:
2-Amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol 0.21
Stearic acid (C16-18: 50/50) 2.49
Carnauba wax 5.77
D-Panthenol 0.50
Black iron oxide (CI: 77499) 3.00
Ultra Marine Blue (CI: 77007) 4.14
Hydroxyethylcellulose quaternized with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.10
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.88
Mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and hydrated silica 0.15
25% aqueous solution of unstabilized sodium polymethacrylate 5.00
Gum arabic; polysaccharides;
Arabinose / galactose / rhamnose / glucuronic acid 3.38
Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20
Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.25
99% triethanolamine 1.02
Oxyethylation (20 EO) Oxypropylation (20 PO)
Polydimethylsiloxane (DP: 170-viscosity: 1000cSt) 0.20
50% aqueous dispersion of ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate cross-linked copolymer (80/20) 4.00
Acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymer polysorbate 80 / I-C16 40% inverse emulsion 2.00
Oxyethylenated (200 EO) glyceryl monostearate 3.00
Trans-isomerized jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis) with melting point 45 ° C. 15.77
Sterilized demineralized water Appropriate amount 100%
The resulting formulation has a smooth texture and is well applied to eyelashes. This further has good dark makeup and separation properties in eyelashes.

Formula B:
2-Amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol 0.21
Stearic acid (C16-18: 50/50) 2.49
Carnauba wax 3.00
D-Panthenol 0.50
2-phenoxyethanol 0.50
Black iron oxide (CI: 77499) 3.00
Ultra Marine Blue (CI: 77007) 4.14
Hydroxyethylcellulose quaternized with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.10
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.88
Mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and hydrated silica 0.15
25% aqueous solution of unstabilized sodium polymethacrylate 5.00
Gum arabic; polysaccharides;
Arabinose / galactose / rhamnose / glucuronic acid 3.38
Pure white beeswax 2.50
Glycerol 3.00
Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20
Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.25
99% triethanolamine 1.02
Oxyethylene (20 EO) Oxypropylene (20 PO)
Polydimethylsiloxane (DP: 170-viscosity: 1000cSt) 0.20
Hydrogenated jojoba oil 6.27
50% aqueous dispersion of ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate cross-linked copolymer (80/20) 4.00
Acrylamide / sodium 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonate copolymer polysorbate 80/40% inverse emulsion of I-C16 2.00
Oxyethylenated (200 EO) glyceryl monostearate 3.00
Trans-isomerized jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis) with melting point 45 ° C. 6.27
Sterilized demineralized water Appropriate amount 100%
This formulation allows for a deep make-up of the eyelashes and a good separation of the eyelashes.

Formula C:
2-Amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol 0.21
Stearic acid (C16-18: 50/50) 2.49
Carnauba wax 3.00
D-Panthenol 0.50
2-phenoxyethanol 0.50
Black iron oxide (CI: 77499) 3.00
Ultra Marine Blue (CI: 77007) 4.14
Hydroxyethylcellulose quaternized with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.10
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.88
Mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and hydrated silica 0.15
25% aqueous solution of unstabilized sodium polymethacrylate 5.00
Gum arabic; polysaccharides;
Arabinose / galactose / rhamnose / glucuronic acid 3.38
Pure white beeswax 6.50
Glycerol 2.00
Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20
Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.25
99% triethanolamine 1.02
Oxyethylene (20 EO) Oxypropylene (20 PO)
Polydimethylsiloxane (DP: 170-viscosity: 1000cSt) 0.20
Hydrogenated jojoba oil 6.27
50% aqueous dispersion of ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate cross-linked copolymer (80/20) 4.00
Acrylamide / sodium 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonate copolymer polysorbate 80/40% inverse emulsion of I-C16 2.00
Oxyethylenated (200 EO) glyceryl monostearate 3.00
Trans-isomerized jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis) with melting point 45 ° C. 6.27
Sterilized demineralized water Appropriate amount 100%
The formulation has a creamy texture that is particularly suitable for application with a brush, and it is possible to obtain a dark eyelash makeup (dense mascara).

Formula D:
2-Amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol 0.21
Stearic acid (C16-18: 50/50) 2.49
Carnauba wax 3.00
D-Panthenol 0.50
2-phenoxyethanol 0.50
Black iron oxide (CI: 77499) 3.00
Ultra Marine Blue (CI: 77007) 4.14
Hydroxyethylcellulose quaternized with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.10
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.88
Mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and hydrated silica 0.15
25% aqueous solution of unstabilized sodium polymethacrylate 5.00
Gum arabic; polysaccharides;
Arabinose / galactose / rhamnose / glucuronic acid 3.38
Pure white beeswax 5.50
Glycerol 3.00
Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20
Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.25
99% triethanolamine 1.02
Oxyethylation (20 EO) Oxypropylation (20 PO)
Polydimethylsiloxane (DP: 170-viscosity: 1000cSt) 0.20
Hydrogenated jojoba oil 6.27
50% aqueous dispersion of ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate cross-linked copolymer (80/20) 4.00
Acrylamide / sodium 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonate copolymer polysorbate 80/40% inverse emulsion of I-C16 2.00
Oxyethylenated (200 EO) glyceryl monostearate 3.00
Trans-isomerized jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis) with melting point 45 ° C. 6.27
Sterilized demineralized water Appropriate amount 100%
The formulation has good thickening properties (dark makeup) and separation properties for eyelashes. This has a smooth texture, which is particularly suitable for application to eyelashes.

Formula E:
2-Amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol 0.21
Stearic acid (C16-18: 50/50) 2.49
Carnauba wax 3.00
D-Panthenol 0.50
2-phenoxyethanol 0.50
Black iron oxide (CI: 77499) 5.07
Ultra Marine Blue (CI: 77007) 2.07
Hydroxyethylcellulose quaternized with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.10
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.88
Mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and hydrated silica 0.15
25% aqueous solution of unstabilized sodium polymethacrylate 5.00
Gum arabic; polysaccharides;
Arabinose / galactose / rhamnose / glucuronic acid 3.38
Pure white beeswax 5.50
Glycerol 3.00
Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20
Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.25
99% triethanolamine 1.02
Oxyethylation (20 EO) Oxypropylation (20 PO)
Polydimethylsiloxane (DP: 170-viscosity: 1000cSt) 0.20
Hydrogenated jojoba oil 6.27
Cellulose (rayon) fiber 0.10
50% aqueous dispersion of ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate crosslinked copolymer (80/20) 2.00
Acrylamide / sodium 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonate copolymer polysorbate 80/40% inverse emulsion of I-C16 2.00
Oxyethylenated (200 EO) glyceryl monostearate 3.00
Trans-isomerized jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis) with melting point 45 ° C. 6.27
Sterilized demineralized water Appropriate amount 100%
The corresponding formulation has a cream-like texture and can give a concentrated makeup of eyelashes.
For purposes of clarity, the emulsifying system and the amount of wax used in each formulation is specifically identified in Table I below.
Each formulation was examined for rheological parameters and solids content characteristics. These are shown in Table II.

表Ｉ（続き）

Table I

Table I (continued)

Table II

Claims (27)

The composition has a solids content of 45.5% by weight or higher and a horizontal modulus G _p of 5,500 Pa or higher and not exceeding 60,000 Pa, and the composition at 25 ° C. Cosmetic composition for making up keratin fibers, characterized in that it is combined with at least one nonionic surfactant having at least 8 HLB and at least one ionic surfactant. Shear modulus G _p is equal to or 7,000Pa or greater than, the composition of claim 1.   3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 8 or greater is selected from: oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated fatty alcohol ether, polyethylene Fatty acid esters of glycols, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers, fatty acid esters of oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers, copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.   Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the surfactant is selected from the following: oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol containing 30 oxyethylene groups, C12-containing 7 oxyethylene groups C15 fatty alcohol mixture oxyethylenated ether, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-200 glyceryl stearate, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, 30 ethylene oxide groups Glyceryl oleate polyethoxylated with, glyceryl cocoate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, glyceryl isostearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, glyceryl lath polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups Urate, dimethicone copolyol, dimethicone copolyol benzoate, and mixtures thereof.   A nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 8 or more is present in a proportion of 0.01% to 40% by weight, in particular 0.1% to 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition, A composition according to any one of the preceding claims.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ionic surfactant is at least one anionic surfactant.   7. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from the following: C16-C30 fatty acid salt, polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salt, phosphate ester and salt thereof, alkyl ether sulfate Sulfosuccinate, isethionate and acyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof;   8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ionic surfactant comprises at least triethanolamine stearate.   9. The ionic surfactant is present in a proportion of 0.01% to 30% by weight, in particular 0.1% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to claim 1.   10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular 0.5% to 20% by weight of a surfactant. Composition.   11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further comprises at least one gelling polymer.   12. A composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the gelling polymer is selected from the following: A homopolymer or copolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and its salts and esters; polyacrylic acid; acrylic acid and acrylamide Salt of copolymer; sodium salt of polyhydroxycarboxylic acid; polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymer; AMPS; AMPS / acrylamide copolymer; AMPS / polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymer (cross-linked or non-cross-linked); protein Proteins of plant or animal origin; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulose polymers; vinyl polymers; polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.   13. A composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the gelling polymer is selected from the following: homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or salts and esters thereof, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide, polyacrylic Acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, AMPS (polyacrylamide methyl propane sulfonic acid), AMPS / acrylamide copolymers and AMPS / polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymers, and mixtures thereof.   The gelling polymer is present in a range of 0.1% to 60% by weight, in particular 0.5% to 40% by weight of the total weight of the composition as a solids content 14. The composition according to 13.   15. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further comprises a film-forming polymer.   16. A composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is selected from free radical or polycondensation type synthetic polymers, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.   17. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises a wax phase comprising an aqueous dispersion of at least one wax particle.   18. Composition according to claim 17, characterized in that the wax is selected from waxes of animal and plant origin solid and hard at room temperature and mixtures thereof.   19. A composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the wax has a melting point above about 45 [deg.] C, in particular above 55 [deg.] C.   20. A composition according to any one of claims 17 to 19, characterized in that the wax is selected from the following: waxes based on hydrocarbons such as beeswax, lanolin wax and owl; rice wax , Carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, wallow and molasses; montan wax; microcrystalline wax, paraffin and ozokerite; polyethylene wax Waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; waxy copolymers, and their esters; waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, such as hydrogenated Bar oil, isomerized jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, bis (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate and bis (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate.   21. The wax phase according to claim 17, 18, 19 and 20, characterized in that the wax phase is present in a proportion of 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular 5% to 40% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Composition.   Characterized in that the wax phase is in the form of a dispersion of particles having an average “effective” diameter D [4.3] by volume of 1 μm or less, in particular having a particle size of 0.75 μm or less The composition according to any one of claims 17 to 21.   23. Any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition has a limiting flow in the range of 5 to 3,500 Pa, in particular 20 to 1,000 Pa, measured by vibrational rheology (ν = 1 Hz). The composition according to item.   24. Any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises 0.01% to 30% by weight of at least one colorant and / or 0.1% to 25% by weight of filler. 2. The composition according to item 1. 25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition has a horizontal elasticity [delta] _p in the range of 1 [deg.] To 45 [deg.], In particular 5 [deg.] To 30 [deg.].   26. Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims to obtain keratin fibres, in particular dark eyelashes and eyebrows make-up.   A method for making up keratin fibers, characterized in that the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 25 is applied to keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes.