JP2004515514A - Cosmetic composition comprising wax and polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a wax-in-water emulsion and at least a first polymer having an average mole weight less than 100000, comprising: a) a polymeric skeleton, having repeat hydrocarbon units provided with at least an amide unit, and at least a pendent fatty chain and/or at least a terminal fatty chain optionally functionalised, having 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bound to said amide units. The composition provides fast and thick make-up of keratinous materials. The invention is applicable to make-up and care of keratinous fibres, in particular with mascara.

Description

【００２７】
（式中、ｎは、エステル基の数が、エステルとアミド基の合計数の１０乃至５０％を占めるようなアミド単位の自然数を示す。Ｒ^１は、各々、独立して、少なくとも４の、特に４乃至２４の炭素原子を有するアルキル又はアルケニル基である。Ｒ^２は独立して、各々、Ｃ_４乃至Ｃ_４２の炭化水素基を示すが、Ｒ^２基の５０％はＣ_３０乃至Ｃ_４２の炭化水素基を表す。Ｒ^３は独立して、各々、少なくとも２の炭素原子と、水素原子と任意に１以上の酸素又は窒素原子を有する有機基を表す。Ｒ^４は独立して、各々、水素原子、Ｃ_１乃至Ｃ_１０のアルキル基又はＲ^３又は他のＲ^４への直接結合を示し、Ｒ^３とＲ^４の両方が結合している窒素原子は、Ｒ^４−Ｎ−Ｒ^３で定義される複素環構造の一部を形成し、Ｒ^４基の少なくとも５０％は水素原子を表す。
【００２８】
式（Ｉ）の特定の場合では、本発明で意味する範囲内で、任意に官能化された末端脂肪鎖は、ポリアミド骨格の最後の窒素に結合した末端鎖である。
【００２９】
特に、式（Ｉ）のエステル基は、本発明の意味する範囲内で、末端及び／又はペンダント脂肪鎖の一部を形成し、エステルとアミド基の合計の１５乃至４０％、好ましくは２０乃至３５％を占める。さらに、ｎは有利には、１乃至５の範囲の、より好ましくは２を超えた自然数を表す。好ましくはＲ^１はＣ_１２乃至Ｃ_{２ ２}のアルキル基および好ましくはＣ_１６乃至Ｃ_２２のアルキル基である。有利には、Ｒ^２は、Ｃ_１０乃至Ｃ_４２の炭化水素（アルキレン）基とすることができる。好ましくは、少なくとも５０％の、さらには少なくとも７５％のＲ^２基が、３０乃至４２の炭素原子を有する基である。他のＲ^２基は、Ｃ_４乃至Ｃ_１９、さらにはＣ_４乃至Ｃ_１２の炭化水素基である。好ましくは、Ｒ^３はＣ_２乃至Ｃ_３６の炭化水素基またはポリアルキレン基であり、Ｒ^４は水素原子を表す。好ましくはＲ^３はＣ_２乃至Ｃ_１２の炭化水素基を表す。
【００３０】
炭化水素基は、直鎖状、環状又は分枝状の、飽和又は不飽和基とすることができる。さらには、アルキル及びアルキレン基は、直鎖状、環状又は分枝状の、飽和又は不飽和基とすることができる。
【００３１】
一般的には、式（Ｉ）のポリマーは、ポリマーの混合物の形態で提供されることができ、これらの混合物は、任意に、ｎが０である式（Ｉ）の化合物、すなわちジエステルに相当する合成産物を含むことができる。
【００３２】
本発明の第１のポリマーの例としては、Ａｒｉｚｏｎａ Ｃｈｅｍｉｃａｌにより、Ｕｎｉｃｌｅａｒ ８０及びＵｎｉｃｌｅａｒ １００の名で市販されている製品を挙げることができる。それらは、各々、鉱物油中の８０％のゲルの形態（活性物質として）で、及び１００％（活性物質として）ゲルの形態で市販されている。それらは、８８乃至９４℃の軟化点を有する。これらの市販製品は、約６０００の重量平均分子重量を有する、エチレンジアミンと縮合したＣ_３６の二酸のコポリマーの混合物である。末端エステル基は、残留する酸末端と、セチルアルコール、ステアリルアルコール又はこれらの混合物（セテアリルアルコールとして知られる）とのエステル化により得られる。
【００３３】
本発明で用いることができる第１のポリマーとしては、脂肪族ジカルボン酸とジアミン（２を超えたカルボニル基と２のアミン基を有する化合物）との縮合から得られ、隣接する個々の単位のカルボニルとアミン基がアミド結合を介して縮合されている、ポリアミド樹脂を挙げることができる。これらのポリアミド樹脂は、特に、Ｇｅｎｅｒａｌ Ｍｉｌｌｓ Ｉｎｃ．及びｈｅｎｋｅｌ Ｃｏｒｐ．により、Ｖｅｒｓａｍｉｄ（登録商標）の商標名（Ｖｅｒｓａｍｉｄ ９３０，７４４，又は１６５５）で、又はＯｌｉｎ Ｍａｔｈｉｅｓｏｎ Ｃｈｅｍｉｃａｌ Ｃｏｒｐ．によりＯｎａｍｉｄ（登録商標）の商標名で、特にＯｎａｍｉｄ Ｓ又はＣの名で、市販されているものである。これらの樹脂は、重量平均分子重量が、６０００乃至９０００の範囲である。これらのポリアミドについてのさらなる情報は、ＵＳ−Ａ−３６４５７０５とＵＳ−Ａ−３１４８１２５を参照できる。特に、Ｖｅｒｓａｍｉｄ（登録商標）９３０又は７４４が用いられる。
【００３４】
Ａｒｉｚｏｎａ ＣｈｅｍｉｃａｌによりＵｎｉ−Ｒｅｚ参照（２６５８，２９３１，２９７０，２６２１，２６１３，２６２４，２６６５，１５５４，２６２３，２６６２）で市販されているポリアミド、及びＨｅｎｋｅｌにより参照、Ｍａｃｒｏｍｅｌｔ ６１２で市販されている製品を用いることも可能である。これらのポリアミドについてのさらなる情報は、ＵＳ−Ａ−５５００２０９を参照することができる。
【００３５】
特許ＵＳ−Ａ−５７８３６５７及びＵＳ−Ａ−５９９８５７０に開示されているものなどの、植物由来のポリアミド樹脂を用いることも可能である。
【００３６】
本発明の組成物中に存在する第１のポリマーは、有利には、６５℃を超え、１９０℃まででもよい軟化温度を有する。好ましくは、軟化温度は７０乃至１３０℃であり、さらには８０℃ないし１０５℃である。第１のポリマーは、特に非ワックス性ポリマーである。
【００３７】
好ましくは、本発明の第１のポリマーは上記の式（Ｉ）に相当する。この第１のポリマーは、その／それらの脂肪鎖（類）のために、油中に良好な溶解性を示し、その結果、例えば高濃度（少なくとも２５％）のポリマーも、脂肪鎖を有していないポリマーと比較して、マクロ的に均質の組成物をもたらす。
【００３８】
第１のポリマーは、本発明の組成物中に、組成物の全重量に対して、０．０１重量％乃至１０重量％の範囲、好ましくは０．０５重量％乃至５重量％の範囲、さらに好ましくは０．１重量％乃至３重量％の範囲の含量で存在することができる。
【００３９】
本発明の組成物の脂肪相は、ワックスを含むことができる。「ワックス」なる用語は、本発明の意味する範囲では、周囲温度（２５℃）で大気圧（７６０ｍｍＨｇ、すなわち１０^５Ｐａ）で固体で、固体／液体の状態変化が可逆性であり、融点温度が３０℃を超え、さらには５５℃を超え、２００℃まででもよく、特に１２０℃まででもよい、親油性脂肪物質を意味するものと理解される。ワックスをその融点温度に上げることにより、油に混和して、マクロ的に均質の混合物を形成することが可能であるが、混合物の温度を周囲温度に戻すと、混合物の油中でのワックスが再結晶が得られる。
【００４０】
融点の値は、本発明によれば、示差走査熱量計（Ｄ．Ｓ．Ｃ．）、例えば、ＭｅｔｌｅｒによりＤＳＣ３０の名で市販されている熱量計を用いて、１分当たり、５又は１０℃の温度上昇で測定した融点ピークに相当する。
【００４１】
本発明で意味する範囲でのワックスは、一般的には、化粧品及び皮膚科分野で用いられるものである。特に、蜜蝋、ラノリンワックス、白蝋；ライスワックス、カルナウバワックス、キャンデリラワックス、オーリキュリーワックス、コルク繊維ワックス、サトウキビワックス、木蝋、及びスマックワックス、モンタンワックス、ミクロクリスタリンワックス、パラフィンワックス、オゾケライト、セレシンワックス、リグナイトワックス、ポリエチレンワックス、フィッシャートロプシュ合成により得られるワックス、４０℃、さらには５５℃を超えても固体の脂肪酸エステル類とグリセリド類を挙げることができる。
【００４２】
直鎖状又は分枝状のＣ_８乃至Ｃ_３２の脂肪酸を有する動物又は植物油の触媒水素化により得られるワックスも挙げることができる。特にこれらの中でも、水素添加ホホバ油、水素添加ヒマワリ油、水素添加ヒマシ油、水素添加ココナッツ油、及び水素添加ラノリン油を挙げることができる。
さらには、シリコーンワックス又はフッ素化ワックスも挙げることができる。
【００４３】
組成物に存在するワックスは水性媒体中に粒子の形態で分散することができる。
これらのワックスは、５０ｎｍ乃至１０μｍ、好ましくは５０ｎｍ乃至３．５μｍの範囲の平均サイズの粒子の形態に分散される。
【００４４】
ワックスは、特に、水中ワックス型エマルションの形態で存在することができ、１μｍ乃至１０μｍ、好ましくは１μｍ乃至３．５μｍの範囲の平均サイズの粒子の形態で存在することができる。
【００４５】
本発明の組成物の別の実施態様では、ワックスは、ワックスミクロ分散物の形態で存在することができ、ワックスは、１μｍ未満、好ましくは５０ｎｍ乃至５００ｎｍの範囲の平均サイズの粒子の形態とすることができる。ワックスミクロ分散物は、ＥＰ−Ａ−５５７１１９６とＥＰ−Ａ−１０４８２８２に開示されている。
【００４６】
ワックスは、０．０５ＭＰａ乃至１５ＭＰａの、好ましくは６ＭＰａ乃至１５ＭＰａの範囲の硬度を示すこともできる。硬度は、ＲｈｅｏによりＴＡ−ＸＴ２ｉの名で市販されているテキスチャーアナライザーで、直径２ｍｍ、０．１ｍｍ／ｓの測定速度で動き、０．３ｍｍの針入深さでワックスに針入する、ステンレス鋼シリンダーを備えたものを用いて、２０℃で測定した圧縮力の測定により、決定される。
硬度の測定を行なうために、ワックスを、ワックスの融点＋２０℃に等しい温度で溶融する。溶融したワックスを、直径３０ｍｍで深さ２０ｍｍの容器に注ぐ。ワックスを、周囲温度（２５℃）で２４時間再結晶化し、ついでワックスを硬度測定を行なう前に少なくとも１時間２０℃で保存する。硬度の値は、圧縮力を、ワックスと接触したテキスチャーアナライザーのシリンダーの表面積で割った値である。
【００４７】
ワックスは、本発明の組成物において、組成物の全重量に対して、０．１重量％乃至５０重量％、好ましくは０．５重量％乃至３０重量％、さらに好ましくは１重量％乃至２０重量％の範囲の含量で存在している
【００４８】
有利には、第１のポリマーとワックスは、本発明の組成物中に、５乃至６０の範囲、好ましくは７乃至５０の範囲、さらには１０乃至４０の範囲の、ワックス／第１ポリマー重量比となるように、存在することができる。
【００４９】
水性相は、組成物の連続相を構成する。水性相は、本質的に水からなるものとすることができる。それは、水と水混和性溶媒（２５℃で５０重量％を超える水への混和性）、例えば、１乃至５の炭素原子を有する低級モノアルコール類、例えばエタノール又はイソプロパノール、２乃至８の炭素原子を有するグリコール類、例えばプロピレングリコール、エチレングリコール、１，３−ブチレングリコール又はジプロピレングリコール、Ｃ_３−Ｃ_４ケトン類又はＣ_２−Ｃ_４アルデヒド類、との混合物も含むことができる。水混和性溶媒は、組成物の全重量に対して、０．１重量％乃至２０重量％、好ましくは０．１重量％乃至１０重量％の範囲の含量で存在することができる。特に、水混和性有機溶媒の含有量は、組成物に存在する水の重量の０．１乃至３０％を占めることができる。
【００５０】
水性相（水及び任意に水混和性有機溶媒）は、組成物の全重量に対して、１重量％乃至９５重量％、好ましくは５重量％乃至８０重量％の、さらに好ましくは１０重量％乃至６０重量％の範囲の含量で存在することができる。
【００５１】
本発明の組成物は、乳化界面活性剤を含むことができ、それは組成物の全重量に対して、２重量％乃至３０重量％、好ましくは５重量％乃至１５重量％の割合で存在することができる。これらの界面活性剤は、アニオン性又は非イオン性界面活性剤から選ばれることができる。界面活性剤の特性と機能（乳化性）の定義については、文献「Ｅｎｃｙｃｌｏｐｅｄｉａ ｏｆ Ｃｈｅｍｉｃａｌ Ｔｅｃｈｎｏｌｏｇｙ， Ｋｉｒｋ−Ｏｔｈｍｅｒ」，３３巻、ｐ．３３３−４３２，第３版、１９７９、Ｗｉｌｅｙを参照することができ、特にアニオン性及び非イオン性界面活性剤についてはこの文献のｐ．３４７−３７７を参照することができる。
【００５２】
本発明の組成物で用いられる界面活性剤は、好ましくは：
−非イオン性界面活性剤：脂肪酸類、脂肪アルコール類、ポリエトキシル化又はポリグリセロール化脂肪アルコール類、例えばポリエトキシル化ステアリル又はセテアリルアルコール類、脂肪酸とスクロースのエステル類、アルキルグルコースエステル類、特にＣ_１−Ｃ_６アルキルグルコースのポリオキシエチレン化脂肪エステル類、及びこれらの混合物；
−アニオン性界面活性剤：アミン、アンモニア水、又はアルカリ塩で中和されたＣ_１６−Ｃ_３０脂肪酸、及びこれらの混合物
から選ばれる。
【００５３】
水中油型又は水中ワックス型エマルションを得ることを可能にする界面活性剤の使用が好ましい。
【００５４】
本発明の組成物は、上記の第１のポリマーとは異なる少なくとも一の第２の付加的な皮膜形成ポリマーを含むことができる。
【００５５】
第２の皮膜形成ポリマーは、本発明の組成物中に、組成物の全重量に対して、乾燥重量で、０．１重量％乃至６０重量％、好ましくは０．５重量％乃至４０重量％の、さらに好ましくは１重量％乃至３０重量％の範囲の含量で存在することができる。
【００５６】
本特許出願において、「皮膜形成ポリマー」なる用語は、それ自体単独で、又は皮膜を形成できる補助剤の存在下で、支持体、特にケラチン物質に接着する連続性皮膜を形成することができるポリマーを意味するものと理解される。
【００５７】
疎水性皮膜を形成することができる皮膜形成ポリマー、すなわち、その皮膜が２５℃で１重量％未満の水溶性を示すポリマーを使用することが好ましい。
【００５８】
本発明の組成物に用いることができる皮膜形成ポリマーの中で、合成ポリマー類、ラジカルタイプ又はポリ縮合タイプのもの、天然由来のポリマー、及びこれらの混合物を挙げることができる。
【００５９】
「ラジカル皮膜形成ポリマー」なる用語は、不飽和、特にエチレン性不飽和を含むモノマーで、各モノマーがホモ重合が可能なもの（ポリ縮合物と異なる）、の重合により得られるポリマーを意味するものと理解される。ラジカルタイプの皮膜形成ポリマーは、特にビニルポリマー類又はコポリマー類、特にアクリルポリマー類とすることができる。
【００６０】
ビニル皮膜形成ポリマー類は、少なくとも一の酸基及び／又はこれらの酸モノマーのエステル類及び／又はこれらの酸モノマーのアミド類を有する、エチレン性不飽和を含むモノマーの重合から得ることができる。
【００６１】
酸基を有するモノマーとしては、α，β−エチレン性不飽和カルボン酸類、例えば、アクリル酸、メタクリル酸、クロトン酸、マレイン酸又はイタコン酸を使用することができる。好ましくは、（メタ）アクリル酸及びクロトン酸が、さらに好ましくは（メタ）アクリル酸が使用される。
【００６２】
酸モノマーのエステルは、有利には、（メタ）アクリル酸のエステル類（（メタ）アクリラート類として知られる）、特にアルキル（メタ）アクリラート類、特に、Ｃ_１−Ｃ_３０のアルキル（メタ）アクリラート類、好ましくはＣ_１−Ｃ_２０のアルキル（メタ）アクリラート類、アリール（メタ）アクリラート類、特にＣ_６−Ｃ_１０のアリール（メタ）アクリラート類、又はヒドロキシアルキル（メタ）アクリラート類、特に、Ｃ_２−Ｃ_６のヒドロキシアルキル（メタ）アクリラート類から選ばれる。
【００６３】
アルキル（メタ）アクリラート類の中から、メチルメタクリラート、エチルメタクリラート、ブチルメタクリラート、イソブチルメタクリラート、２−エチルヘキシルメタクリラート、ラウリルメタクリラート、又はシクロヘキシルメタクリラートを挙げることができる。
【００６４】
ヒドロキシアルキル（メタ）アクリラート類の中から、ヒドロキシエチルアクリラート、２−ヒドロキシプロピルアクリラート、ヒドロキシエチルメタクリラート、又は２−ヒドロキシプロピルメタクリラートを挙げることができる。
アリール（メタ）アクリラート類の中から、ベンジルアクリラート及びフェニルアクリラートを挙げることができる。特に好ましい（メタ）アクリル酸のエステル類は、アルキル（メタ）アクリラート類である。
【００６５】
本発明によれば、エステル類のアルキル基は、フルオロ化又はペルフルオロ化されていてもよく、すなわち、アルキル基の水素原子の一部又は全部がフッ素原子により置換されていてもよい。
【００６６】
酸モノマーのアミド類としては、（メタ）アクリルアミド類、特にＮ−アルキル（メタ）アクリルアミド類、特にＣ_２−Ｃ_１２アルキルを有するものを挙げることができる。Ｎ−アルキル（メタ）アクリルアミド類の中では、Ｎ−エチルアクリルアミド、Ｎ−（ｔ−ブチル）アクリルアミド、Ｎ−（ｔ−オクチル）アクリルアミド及びＮ−ウンデシルアクリルアミドを挙げることができる。
【００６７】
ビニル皮膜形成ポリマーは、ビニルエステル類及びスチレンモノマー類から選ばれるモノマーのホモ重合又は共重合からも得られる。特に、これらのモノマーは、酸モノマー及び／又はそれらのエステル類及び／又はそれらのアミド類、例えば上述したもの、と重合することができる。ビニルエステル類の例としては、ビニルアセタート、ビニルネオデカノアート、ビニルピバラート、ビニルベンゾアート及びビニルｔ−ブチルベンゾアートを挙げることができる。スチレンモノマーの例としては、スチレン及びα−メチルスチレンを挙げることができる。
【００６８】
アクリル酸及びビニルモノマー（シリコーン鎖により変性されているモノマーを含む）のカテゴリーに属する当業者に知られているいかなるモノマーも用いることが可能である。
【００６９】
皮膜形成ポリ縮合物の中では、ポリウレタン類、ポリエステル類、ポリエステルアミド類、ポリアミド類及びエポキシエステル樹脂又はポリウレア類を挙げることができる。
【００７０】
ポリウレタン類は、アニオン性、カチオン性、非イオン性又は両性のポリウレタン類、ポリウレタン−アクリル酸類、ポリウレタン−ポリビニルピロリドン類、ポリエステル−ポリウレタン類、ポリエーテル−ポリウレタン類、ポリウレア類、ポリウレア−ポリウレタン類、及びこれらの混合物から選ばれることができる。
【００７１】
ポリエステル類は、周知の方法で、ジカルボン酸とポリオール、特にジオールとのポリ縮合により得ることができる。ジカルボン酸は、脂肪族、脂環式又は芳香族でもよい。そのような酸の例としては、シュウ酸、マロン酸、ジメチルマロン酸、コハク酸、グルタル酸、アジピン酸、ピメリン酸、２，２−ジメチルグルタル酸、アゼライン酸、スベリン酸、セバシン酸、フマル酸、マレイン酸、イタコン酸、フタル酸、ドデカン二酸、１，３−シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸、１，４−シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸、イソフタル酸、テレフタル酸、２，５−ノルボランジカルボン酸、ジグリコール酸、チオジプロピオン酸、２，５−ナフタレンジカルボン酸または２，６−ナフタレンジカルボン酸を挙げることができる。これらのジカルボン酸モノマーは、単独で又は少なくとも二のジカルボン酸モノマーの組合せとして用いることができる。好ましくは、これらのモノマーの中から、フタル酸、イソフタル酸、又はテレフタル酸が選ばれる。
【００７２】
ジオールは、脂肪族、脂環式、又は芳香族ジオール類から選ばれることができる。エチレングリコール、ジエチレングリコール、トリエチレングリコール、１，３−プロパンジオール、シクロヘキサンジメタノール又は４−ブタンジオールから選ばれるジオールの使用が好ましい。他のポリオールとして、グリセリン、ペンタエリトリトール、ソルビトール又はトリメチロールプロパンを使用することができる。
【００７３】
ポリエステルアミド類は、二酸とジアミン又はアミノアルコールのポリ縮合からのポリエステル類と同様に得ることができる。ジアミンとして、エチレンジアミン、ヘキサメチレンジアミン、又はメタ−又はパラ−フェニレンジアミンを使用することができる。アミノアルコールとして、モノエタノールアミンを使用することができる。
【００７４】
ポリエステルは、付加的に、少なくとも一の−ＳＯ_３Ｍ基（Ｍは水素原子、アンモニウムイオンＮＨ_４ ^＋、又は金属イオン、例えば、Ｎａ^＋、Ｌｉ^＋、Ｋ^＋、Ｍｇ^２＋、Ｃａ^２＋、Ｃｕ^２＋、Ｆｅ^２＋、又はＦｅ^３＋イオンを表す）を有する少なくとも一のモノマーを含むことができる。特に、そのような−ＳＯ_３Ｍ基を含む二官能性芳香族モノマーを使用することができる。
【００７５】
上述の付加的に−ＳＯ_３Ｍ基を含む二官能性芳香族モノマーの芳香核は、例えば、ベンゼン、ナフタレン、アントラセン、ジフェニル、オキシジフェニル、スルホニルジフェニル又はメチレンジフェニル核から選ばれることができる。付加的に−ＳＯ_３Ｍ基を含む二官能性芳香族モノマーの例としては、スルホイソフタル酸、スルホテレフタル酸、スルホフタル酸又は４−スルホナフタレン−２，７−ジカルボン酸を挙げることができる。イソフタラート／スルホイソフタラート主体のコポリマー、特に、ジエチレングルコール、シクロヘキサンジメタノール、イソフタル酸及びスルホイソフタル酸の縮合から得られるコポリマーを使用することが好ましい。そのようなポリマーは、例えば、Ｅａｓｔｍａｎ Ｃｈｅｍｉｃａｌ ＰｒｏｄｕｃｔｓからＥａｓｔｍａｎ ＡＱ（登録商標）の商標名で市販されている。
【００７６】
天然由来の任意に変性されたポリマー類は、シェラック樹脂、サンデラックゴム、ダンマル、エレミス、コパール、セルロースポリマー、及びこれらの混合物から選ばれることができる。
【００７７】
本発明の組成物の第１の態様によれば、第２の皮膜形成ポリマーは、水性分散液中の粒子の形態、一般的にラテックスまたはシュードラテックスの名で知られている形態で存在することができる。これらの分散液の調製のための技術は、当業者には周知である。
【００７８】
皮膜形成ポリマーの水性分散液としては、Ａｖｅｃｉａ−ＮｅｏｒｅｓｉｎｓによりＮｅｏｃｒｙｌ ＸＫ−９０（登録商標）、Ｎｅｏｃｒｙｌ Ａ−１０７０（登録商標）、Ｎｅｏｃｒｙｌ Ａ−１０９０（登録商標）、Ｎｅｏｃｒｙｌ ＢＴ−６２（登録商標）、Ｎｅｏｃｒｙｌ Ａ−１０７９（登録商標）、又はＮｅｏｃｒｙｌ Ａ−５２３の名で、Ｄｏｗ ＣｈｅｍｉｃａｌによりＤｏｗ Ｌａｔｅｘ ４３２（登録商標）の名で、Ｄａｉｔｏ Ｋａｓｅｙ ＫｏｇｙｏによりＤｉａｔｏｓｏｌ ５０００ ＡＤ（登録商標）の名で、市販されているアクリル酸分散液；又は、Ａｖｅｃｉａ−ＮｅｏｒｅｓｉｎｓによりＮｅｏｒｅｚ Ｒ−９８１（登録商標）又はＮｅｏｒｅｚ Ｒ−９７４（登録商標）、ＧｏｏｄｒｉｃｈによりＡｖａｌｕｒｅ ＵＲ−４０５（登録商標）、Ａｖａｌｕｒｅ ＵＲ−４１０（登録商標）、Ａｖａｌｕｒｅ ＵＲ−４２５（登録商標）、Ａｖａｌｕｒｅ ＵＲ−４５０（登録商標）、Ｓａｎｃｕｒｅ ８７５（登録商標）、Ｓａｎｃｕｒｅ ８６１（登録商標）、Ｓａｎｃｕｒｅ ８７８（登録商標）、Ｓａｎｃｕｒｅ ２０６０（登録商標）、ＢｅｙｅｒによりＩｍｐｒａｎｉｌ ８５（登録商標）又はＨｙｄｒｏｍｅｒによりＡｑｕａｍｅｒｅ Ｈ−１５１１（登録商標）の名で市販されている、水性ポリウレタン分散液、を使用することができる。
【００７９】
皮膜形成ポリマーの水性分散液として、ポリウレタン類、ポリウレア類、ポリエステル類、ポリエステルアミド類及び／又はアルキッド類からなる群から選ばれる少なくとも一のポリマーのあらかじめ存在した粒子の、内部及び／又は部分的に表面にある、一以上のラジカルモノマーのラジカル重合により得られるポリマーの分散液を使用することができる。これらのポリマー類は、一般的にハイブリッドポリマー類として知られている。
【００８０】
本発明の組成物の第２の代替の態様によれば、皮膜形成ポリマーは、水溶性ポリマーでもよく、よって、溶解した形態で組成物の水性相に存在する。水溶性皮膜形成ポリマーの例としては、
−蛋白質、例えば植物由来の蛋白質、例えば小麦又は大豆蛋白質；又は、動物由来の蛋白質、例えばケラチン類、例えばケラチン加水分解物及びスルホン酸ケラチン；
−アニオン性、カチオン性、両性又は非イオン性キトサンまたはキチンポリマー類；
−セルロースポリマー類、例えばヒドロキシエチルセルロース、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、メチルセルロース、エチルヒドロキシエチルセルロース又はカルボキシメチルセルロース、及び４級セルロース誘導体；
−アクリル酸ポリマー類又はコポリマー類、例えばポリアクリラート類又はポリメタクリラート類；
−ビニルポリマー類、例えばポリビニルピロリドン類、メチルビニルエーテルと無水リンゴ酸とのコポリマー類、ビニルアセタートとクロトン酸とのコポリマー類、ビニルピロリドンとビニルアセタートとのコポリマー類、ビニルピロリドンとカプロラクタムとのコポリマー類又はポリ（ビニルアルコール）；
−天然由来の任意に変性されたポリマー類、例えば：
・アラビックゴム、グアールゴム、キサンタン誘導体又はカラヤゴム；
・アルギナート類及びカラギーナン類；
・グリコアミノグリカン類、ヒアルロン酸及びその誘導体；
・シェラック樹脂、サンダラックゴム、ダルマル、エレミス又はコパール；
・デオキシリボ核酸；
・ムコ多糖類、例えばヒアルロン酸、硫酸コンドロイチン、及びこれらの混合物を挙げることができる。
【００８１】
水性相の分散物のポリマーの粒子のサイズは、５ｎｍ乃至６００ｎｍの範囲、好ましくは２０ｎｍ乃至３００ｎｍの範囲とすることができる。
【００８２】
本発明の組成物は、皮膜形成ポリマーとともに皮膜形成を促進する皮膜を形成することができる補助剤を含むことができる。皮膜を形成することができるそのような薬剤は、所望の役割を満たすものとして当業者に知られているいかなる化合物からも選ばれることができ、特に、可塑剤及び合着剤から選ばれることができる。
【００８３】
本発明の組成物は、着色物質、例えば粉末状の着色物質、脂溶性染料又は水溶性染料を含むこともできる。この着色物質は、組成物の全重量に対して、０．０１乃至３０重量％の含量で存在することができる。
【００８４】
粉末状着色物質は、顔料及び真珠光沢剤から選ばれることができる。
【００８５】
顔料は、白色又は着色、無機及び／又は有機、被覆又は非被覆のものでよい。無機顔料の中では、二酸化チタン、任意に表面処理されたもの、酸化ジルコニウム、酸化亜鉛、または酸化セリウム、並びに酸化鉄、酸化クロム、マンガンバイオレット、ウルトラマリンブルー、クロム水和物、又はフェリックブルーを挙げることができる。有機顔料の中では、カーボンブラック、Ｄ＆Ｃタイプの顔料、及びコチニールカルミン、バリウム、ストロンチウム、カルシウム，又はアルミニウム主体のレーキ類を挙げることができる。
【００８６】
真珠光沢顔料は、酸化チタンで、又はオキシ塩化ビスマスで被覆されたマイカなどの白色真珠光沢顔料、酸化鉄で被覆された酸化チタンマイカ、特にフェリックブルーまたは酸化クロムで被覆された酸化チタンマイカ、上記タイプの有機顔料で被覆された酸化チタンマイカ、並びにオキシ塩化ビスマス主体の真珠光沢顔料などの着色真珠光沢剤から選択することができる。
【００８７】
脂溶性染料は、例えば、スーダンレッド、Ｄ＆Ｃレッド１７、Ｄ＆Ｃグリーン６、β−カロチン、大豆油、スーダンブラウン、Ｄ＆Ｃイエロー１１、Ｄ＆Ｃバイオレット２、Ｄ＆Ｃオレンジ５、キノリンイエロー、又はアナトーである。水溶性染料は、例えば、ビーツ根液又はメチレンブルーである。
【００８８】
本発明の組成物は、さらに、化粧品に従来より用いられるさらにいかなる添加剤も含むことができ、例えば、抗酸化剤、フィラー、防腐剤、香料、中和剤、増粘剤、美容又は皮膚科活性成分、例えば、エモリエント，保湿剤、ビタミン類又はサンスクリーン、及びこれらの混合物である。これらの添加剤は、組成物の全重量に対して、０重量％乃至２０重量％（特に０．０１乃至２０重量％）、好ましくは０．０１重量％乃至１０重量％の含量で存在することができる（存在する場合）。
【００８９】
言うまでもないが、当業者は、任意の添加剤及び／又はその量の選択に、意図された添加により本発明の組成物の有利な特性を損ねない、または実質的に損ねないように注意を払うであろう。
【００９０】
本発明の組成物は、化粧品又は皮膚科分野で通常用いられている周知の方法によって製造することができる。
【００９１】
【実施例】
本発明を、下記の実施例によりさらに詳細に示す。
【００９２】
実施例１：
下記の組成を有するマスカラを調製した：

【００９３】
このマスカラは、塗布の間とその後に、容易に適用され、睫毛に良好に接着する。睫毛は迅速にメイクアップされる。マスカラは、睫毛に即効の増量を与える。
【００９４】
実施例２：
下記の組成を有するマスカラを調製した：

【００９５】
このマスカラは、塗布の間とその後に、睫毛に良好に接着する。睫毛に対し、良好な即効増量性を示す。
【００９６】
実施例３：
ａ）下記の組成を有するカルナウバワックスのミクロ分散物を調製した：

【００９７】
ワックスと界面活性剤を、９０℃に加熱しつつ、穏やかに攪拌しながら混合物をホモゲナイズした。ついで、９０℃に熱した水を、攪拌を続けながら加えた。混合物を周囲温度に冷却し、エタノールを加えて、約１７０ｎｍの平均粒子径を有するワックスミクロ分散物を得た。
【００９８】
ｂ） 下記の組成を有するマスカラを調製した：

【００９９】
このマスカラは、塗布の間とその後に、容易に適用され、睫毛に良好に接着する。睫毛は迅速にメイクアップされる。
【０１００】
実施例４
下記の組成を有するマスカラを調製した：

【０１０１】
このマスカラは、塗布の間とその後に、容易に適用され、睫毛に良好に接着する。睫毛は迅速にメイクアップされる。睫毛の即効性の増量が得られる。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a composition comprising a wax and a polymer comprising specific amide units in a physiologically acceptable medium, especially intended for the cosmetic field. The invention also relates to a method for cosmetic makeup or cosmetic care for keratin substances. The makeup or care compositions and methods of the present invention are particularly intended for human keratin materials, such as skin (including the scalp), nails or keratin fibers, particularly substantially longitudinal fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows and hair. It is. The invention particularly relates to mascara.
[0002]
[Prior art]
The composition of the present invention comprises a composition for coating eyelashes (especially mascara), an eyeliner, a product for eyebrows, a product for lips, a face powder or eyeshadow, a foundation, for making up the body It can be provided in the form of products, concealers, nail polish, products for caring for skin including scalp, products for hair (care mascara, spray).
[0003]
The makeup composition can be applied to makeup accessories (supports) such as false eyelashes, torpees, wigs or false nails, or discs or patches (of the mole type) that adhere to the skin or lips.
[0004]
Compositions for coating the eyelashes, known as mascara, are generally prepared in a well-known manner, such as disclosed in WO-A-95 / 15741. In form, at least one wax and at least one film-forming polymer for depositing and covering the makeup film on the eyelashes. The user can use these products with good cosmetic properties, such as adhesion to the eyelashes, lengthening or curling the eyelashes, or keeping the mascara good over time, in particular, for example, cloths and fabrics (handkerchiefs, tableware, etc.) We expect high resistance to rubbing by napkins).
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
However, these compositions do not provide make-up properties such as covering, stretching or curling eyelashes unless an applicator such as a mascara brush is used to attach a significant amount of product. When the composition does not stick very much to the eyelashes, the user has to apply the product-impregnated brush many times to the eyelashes, in order to apply the makeup and obtain the desired makeup result. The number of times must be done. In fact, this time would be too long to accept if the user is in a hurry. Thus, there is a need to obtain a usable mascara that can quickly and easily obtain the expected makeup.
[0006]
The object of the present invention is to make available a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, for example the eyelashes, which can be easily applied to keratin materials and exhibits good cosmetic properties quickly.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The inventors have surprisingly found that the use of a polymer containing specific amide units in a composition comprising a wax-in-water emulsion makes it possible to adhere the composition to keratin materials, particularly keratin fibers, such as the eyelashes. It has been found that the characteristics can be improved. The composition is easily applied to keratin materials and can quickly adhere in sufficient or amount to form a makeup that exhibits the expected cosmetic properties. In particular, a thick layer of makeup on the keratin material can be obtained quickly, eliminating the problem for the user that the application time of the composition to keratin fibers is too long. Thus, for mascara, a make-up that quickly thickens keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes, is obtained, thus increasing the immediate effect of the eyelashes. Further, the mascara imparts a sufficient length to the makeup eyelashes.
[0008]
In particular, the subject of the present invention comprises a wax-in-water emulsion and at least one first polyamide polymer having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000 in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, the first polyamide polymer Comprises a polymer backbone having a hydrocarbon repeating unit having at least one non-pendant amide unit and at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain, wherein the fatty chain is optionally functionalized, A composition having 6 to 120 carbon atoms and bonded to these amide units.
[0009]
Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic method for making up or caring for human keratin materials comprising applying the above composition to keratin materials. The method is preferably applied to substantially longitudinal keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes, hair or eyebrows and even to the eyelashes.
[0010]
A further subject matter of the present invention is the use of the above composition for forming an adhesive layer on keratin materials and / or for forming rapid make-up on keratin materials.
[0011]
A further subject matter of the present invention is the use of a mascara comprising the above composition for rapidly thickening and / or lengthening eyelashes.
[0012]
Another subject of the invention is to form an adhesive layer on the keratin material and / or to make a quick make-up of the keratin material and / or to thicken the eyelashes quickly and / or lengthen the eyelashes At least one first polyamide polymer having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, more preferably less than 50,000, in a physiologically acceptable composition in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion, comprising: a) The first polyamide polymer comprises a polymer backbone having hydrocarbon repeat units having at least one non-pendant amide unit and at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain, the fatty chain comprising: Optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and bound to these amide units, First polyamide polymer with the use of a combination of at least one wax.
[0013]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is understood to mean a non-toxic medium, such as a cosmetic medium, which can be applied to human skin, body surface growth or lips.
[0014]
The term “functional group” means within the meaning of the invention in particular halogens including amide, hydroxyl, ether, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene, halogen, ester, siloxane or polysiloxane groups, fluorinated or perfluorinated groups. It is understood to mean an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional or reactive groups from the group. Furthermore, one or more of the fatty chain hydrogen atoms may be partially substituted with at least a fluorine atom.
[0015]
According to the present invention, these chains can be attached directly to the polymer backbone or via ester functional groups or perfluorinated groups.
[0016]
The term “polymer” is understood within the meaning of the invention to mean a compound having at least 2, preferably at least 3, repeating units.
[0017]
The term “hydrocarbon repeat unit”, within the meaning of the present invention, contains 2 to 80, preferably 2 to 60 carbon atoms, carries hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen atoms, is linear, branched, It is understood to mean a unit which may be in the form of a ring or a ring, saturated or unsaturated. In addition, these units each contain one to several non-pendant amide units found in the polymer backbone.
[0018]
The pendant chain is preferably directly bonded to at least one of the amide units of the polymer backbone.
[0019]
The first polymer can include silicone units or oxyalkylenated units between the hydrocarbon units.
[0020]
Furthermore, the first polymer of the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises 40 to 98%, preferably 50 to 95% of fatty chains, based on the total number of amide units and fatty chains. The proportion of amide units depends on the nature of the fatty phase and is particularly similar to the polarity of the fatty phase. For example, the higher the proportion of amide units in the first polymer (which corresponds to the presence of several amide units), the higher the affinity of the first polymer for polar oils.
[0021]
Advantageously, the first polymer of the composition according to the invention has a weight average molecular weight of 100,000 (especially in the range of 1000 to 100,000), in particular less than 50,000 (especially 1000 to 50000), in particular 1000 to 30000, preferably 2000 to 20000, more preferably 2000 to 10000.
[0022]
The first polymer, in particular the polyamide, is insoluble in water, especially at 25 ° C. In particular, it does not contain ionic groups.
[0023]
Preferred first polymers that can be used in the present invention include polyamides that are branched by pendant and / or terminal fatty chains having 6 to 120, more preferably 8 to 120, especially 12 to 68 carbon atoms. And each terminal fatty chain may be a polyamide that is bonded to the polyamide skeleton via at least one linking group, particularly an ester group. These polymers preferably contain a fatty chain at each end of the polyamide backbone. Other linking groups can include ether, amine, urea, urethane, thioester, thiourea or thiourethane groups.
[0024]
These first polymers comprise a dicarboxylic acid having at least 32 carbon atoms (especially 32 to 44 carbon atoms), a diamine having at least 2 carbon atoms (especially 2 to 36 carbon atoms) and at least 2 carbon atoms. Preferably a polymer obtained from polycondensation with an amine selected from triamines having (in particular 2 to 36 carbon atoms). The diacid is preferably a dimer derived from a fatty acid containing ethylenic unsaturation having at least 16 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, or linolenic acid. The diamine is preferably ethylene diamine, hexylene diamine or hexamethylene diamine. The triamine is, for example, ethylene triamine. The polymer containing one or two terminal carboxylic acid groups is esterified with a monoalcohol having at least 4, preferably 10 to 36, more preferably 12 to 24, more preferably 16 to 24, for example 18 carbon atoms. It is advantageous.
[0025]
These polymers are in particular those disclosed in Union Camp US-A-583657. Each of these polymers particularly satisfies the following formula (I):
[0026]
[Chemical formula 2]

[0027]
(In the formula, n represents a natural number of amide units such that the number of ester groups occupies 10 to 50% of the total number of esters and amide groups. R¹Are each independently an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4, especially 4 to 24 carbon atoms. R²Are each independently C₄Thru C₄₂Is a hydrocarbon group represented by R²50% of the groups are C₃₀Thru C₄₂Represents a hydrocarbon group. R³Each independently represents an organic group having at least two carbon atoms, a hydrogen atom, and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms. R⁴Are each independently a hydrogen atom, C₁Thru C₁₀An alkyl group or R³Or other R⁴Indicates a direct bond to R³And R⁴The nitrogen atom to which both are bonded is R⁴-N-R³Forms part of the heterocyclic structure defined by⁴At least 50% of the groups represent hydrogen atoms.
[0028]
In the specific case of formula (I), within the meaning meant by the present invention, the optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain is the terminal chain attached to the last nitrogen of the polyamide backbone.
[0029]
In particular, the ester group of formula (I) forms, within the meaning of the invention, a terminal and / or part of a pendant fatty chain and is 15 to 40% of the total of ester and amide groups, preferably 20 to It accounts for 35%. Furthermore, n advantageously represents a natural number in the range 1 to 5, more preferably more than 2. Preferably R¹Is C₁₂Thru C_{2 2}Alkyl groups and preferably C₁₆Thru C₂₂It is an alkyl group. Advantageously, R²Is C₁₀Thru C₄₂Hydrocarbon (alkylene) group. Preferably at least 50%, even at least 75% R²The group is a group having 30 to 42 carbon atoms. Other R²The group is C₄Thru C₁₉And even C₄Thru C₁₂It is a hydrocarbon group. Preferably R³Is C₂Thru C₃₆A hydrocarbon group or a polyalkylene group, and R⁴Represents a hydrogen atom. Preferably R³Is C₂Thru C₁₂Represents a hydrocarbon group.
[0030]
The hydrocarbon group can be a linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated group. Furthermore, the alkyl and alkylene groups can be linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups.
[0031]
In general, the polymers of formula (I) can be provided in the form of a mixture of polymers, these mixtures optionally corresponding to compounds of formula (I) in which n is 0, ie diesters. Synthesis products can be included.
[0032]
As examples of the first polymer of the present invention, mention may be made of products marketed by Arizona Chemical under the names Universal 80 and Uniclear 100. They are commercially available in the form of 80% gel in mineral oil (as active substance) and in the form of 100% (as active substance) gel, respectively. They have a softening point of 88-94 ° C. These commercial products are C-condensed with ethylenediamine having a weight average molecular weight of about 6000.₃₆A mixture of diacid copolymers. Terminal ester groups are obtained by esterification of the remaining acid ends with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof (known as cetearyl alcohol).
[0033]
The first polymer that can be used in the present invention includes carbonyls of adjacent individual units obtained from condensation of aliphatic dicarboxylic acids and diamines (compounds having more than 2 carbonyl groups and 2 amine groups). And a polyamide resin in which an amine group is condensed via an amide bond. These polyamide resins are notably described in General Mills Inc. And henkel Corp. Under the Versamid® trademark name (Versamid 930, 744, or 1655) or by Olin Mathison Chemical Corp. Are commercially available under the trade name of Onamid (registered trademark), especially under the name of Onamid S or C. These resins have a weight average molecular weight in the range of 6000 to 9000. For further information on these polyamides, reference may be made to US-A-3645705 and US-A-3148125. In particular, Versamid® 930 or 744 is used.
[0034]
Use polyamides marketed by Arizona Chemical under Uni-Rez reference (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2313, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623, 2662) and products marketed by Henkel, marketed under Macromelt 612. It is also possible. For further information on these polyamides, reference may be made to US-A-5500909.
[0035]
It is also possible to use plant-derived polyamide resins such as those disclosed in patents US-A-5783657 and US-A-5998570.
[0036]
The first polymer present in the composition of the invention advantageously has a softening temperature above 65 ° C. and may be up to 190 ° C. Preferably, the softening temperature is 70 to 130 ° C, and further 80 to 105 ° C. The first polymer is in particular a non-waxy polymer.
[0037]
Preferably, the first polymer of the present invention corresponds to formula (I) above. This first polymer shows good solubility in oil due to its / their fatty chain (s), so that, for example, a high concentration (at least 25%) of the polymer also has a fatty chain. This results in a macroscopically homogeneous composition compared to the unpolymerized polymer.
[0038]
The first polymer is in the composition of the present invention in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.05% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, Preferably it can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight.
[0039]
The fatty phase of the composition of the present invention can comprise a wax. The term “wax” is within the meaning of the present invention at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 10⁵A lipophilic fatty substance which is solid at Pa) and has a reversible solid / liquid state change and has a melting point of more than 30 ° C., more than 55 ° C., up to 200 ° C., in particular up to 120 ° C. Is understood to mean. By raising the wax to its melting temperature, it can be incorporated into the oil to form a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, but when the temperature of the mixture is returned to ambient temperature, the wax in the oil of the mixture is Recrystallization is obtained.
[0040]
The melting point value is determined according to the invention using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example a calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by Mettler at 5 or 10 ° C. per minute. This corresponds to the melting point peak measured with the temperature rise of.
[0041]
Waxes within the meaning of the present invention are generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields. In particular, beeswax, lanolin wax, white wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, auricurie wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, wood wax, and smack wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, Examples include ceresin wax, lignite wax, polyethylene wax, wax obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, solid fatty acid esters and glycerides even when the temperature exceeds 40 ° C. or even 55 ° C.
[0042]
Linear or branched C₈Thru C₃₂Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having the fatty acids. Among these, mention may be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and hydrogenated lanolin oil.
Furthermore, silicone wax or fluorinated wax can also be mentioned.
[0043]
The wax present in the composition can be dispersed in the form of particles in an aqueous medium.
These waxes are dispersed in the form of particles of average size in the range of 50 nm to 10 μm, preferably 50 nm to 3.5 μm.
[0044]
The wax can be present in particular in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion, and can be present in the form of particles of average size in the range of 1 μm to 10 μm, preferably 1 μm to 3.5 μm.
[0045]
In another embodiment of the composition of the invention, the wax can be present in the form of a wax microdispersion, wherein the wax is in the form of particles of average size less than 1 μm, preferably in the range of 50 nm to 500 nm. be able to. Wax microdispersions are disclosed in EP-A-5571196 and EP-A-1048282.
[0046]
The wax may also exhibit a hardness in the range of 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, preferably 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is a texture analyzer marketed under the name TA-XT2i by Rheo, which moves at a measuring speed of 2 mm in diameter and 0.1 mm / s, and penetrates into wax with a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. It is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 ° C. using the one equipped with a cylinder.
In order to make a hardness measurement, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 ° C. The molten wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours, and the wax is then stored at 20 ° C. for at least 1 hour before making hardness measurements. The hardness value is the compressive force divided by the surface area of the texture analyzer cylinder in contact with the wax.
[0047]
The wax in the composition of the present invention is 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably 1% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Is present in a content range of%
[0048]
Advantageously, the first polymer and wax are in the composition according to the invention a wax / first polymer weight ratio in the range of 5 to 60, preferably in the range of 7 to 50 and even in the range of 10 to 40. Can exist to be
[0049]
The aqueous phase constitutes the continuous phase of the composition. The aqueous phase can consist essentially of water. It is a water and water miscible solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C.), for example lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol, 2 to 8 carbon atoms For example, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, C₃-C₄Ketones or C₂-C₄Mixtures with aldehydes can also be included. The water-miscible solvent can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the content of the water-miscible organic solvent can account for 0.1 to 30% of the weight of water present in the composition.
[0050]
The aqueous phase (water and optionally water miscible organic solvent) is from 1% to 95%, preferably from 5% to 80%, more preferably from 10% by weight to the total weight of the composition. It can be present in a content in the range of 60% by weight.
[0051]
The composition according to the invention can comprise an emulsifying surfactant, which is present in a proportion of 2% to 30% by weight, preferably 5% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Can do. These surfactants can be selected from anionic or nonionic surfactants. For the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifiability) of the surfactant, see the document “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer”, Vol. 33, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, especially for anionic and nonionic surfactants, see p. Reference may be made to 347-377.
[0052]
The surfactant used in the composition of the present invention is preferably:
Nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as polyethoxylated stearyl or cetearyl alcohol, esters of fatty acids and sucrose, alkyl glucose esters, especially C₁-C₆Polyoxyethylenated fatty esters of alkyl glucose, and mixtures thereof;
-Anionic surfactant: C neutralized with amine, aqueous ammonia or alkali salt₁₆-C₃₀Fatty acids and mixtures thereof
Chosen from.
[0053]
The use of surfactants that make it possible to obtain oil-in-water or wax-in-water emulsions is preferred.
[0054]
The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one second additional film-forming polymer different from the first polymer described above.
[0055]
The second film-forming polymer in the composition of the present invention is 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 40% by weight, in dry weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, it can be present in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight.
[0056]
In this patent application, the term “film-forming polymer” refers to a polymer capable of forming a continuous film that adheres to a support, particularly keratin materials, either by itself or in the presence of an adjuvant capable of forming a film. Is understood to mean.
[0057]
It is preferred to use a film-forming polymer that can form a hydrophobic film, i.e. a polymer that exhibits a water solubility of less than 1% by weight at 25C.
[0058]
Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, those of radical type or polycondensation type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
[0059]
The term "radical film-forming polymer" means a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers containing unsaturation, in particular ethylenic unsaturation, in which each monomer can be homopolymerized (different from polycondensates). It is understood. The radical-type film-forming polymers can in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.
[0060]
Vinyl film-forming polymers can be obtained from the polymerization of monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.
[0061]
As the monomer having an acid group, α, β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or itaconic acid can be used. (Meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferably used, and (meth) acrylic acid is more preferably used.
[0062]
Esters of acid monomers are advantageously esters of (meth) acrylic acid (known as (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C₁-C₃₀Alkyl (meth) acrylates, preferably C₁-C₂₀Alkyl (meth) acrylates, aryl (meth) acrylates, especially C₆-C₁₀Aryl (meth) acrylates or hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C₂-C₆Of hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates.
[0063]
Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, or cyclohexyl methacrylate.
[0064]
Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, or 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate. Particularly preferred esters of (meth) acrylic acid are alkyl (meth) acrylates.
[0065]
According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the ester may be fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e., some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group may be substituted with fluorine atoms.
[0066]
As amides of acid monomers, (meth) acrylamides, particularly N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, particularly C₂-C₁₂Mention may be made of those having alkyl. Among N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, N-ethylacrylamide, N- (t-butyl) acrylamide, N- (t-octyl) acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide can be mentioned.
[0067]
The vinyl film-forming polymer can also be obtained by homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers selected from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acid monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above. Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate. Examples of the styrene monomer include styrene and α-methylstyrene.
[0068]
Any monomer known to those skilled in the art belonging to the category of acrylic acid and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified with silicone chains) can be used.
[0069]
Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyesteramides, polyamides and epoxy ester resins or polyureas.
[0070]
Polyurethanes include anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylic acids, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and A mixture of these can be selected.
[0071]
Polyesters can be obtained by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids and polyols, particularly diols, in a well-known manner. The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids are oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid , Maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thio Mention may be made of dipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid or 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or as a combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Preferably, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, or terephthalic acid is selected from these monomers.
[0072]
The diol can be selected from aliphatic, alicyclic, or aromatic diols. The use of a diol selected from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexanedimethanol or 4-butanediol is preferred. As other polyols, glycerin, pentaerythritol, sorbitol or trimethylolpropane can be used.
[0073]
Polyesteramides can be obtained similarly to polyesters from polycondensation of diacids with diamines or aminoalcohols. As diamines, ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, or meta- or para-phenylenediamine can be used. Monoethanolamine can be used as the amino alcohol.
[0074]
The polyester additionally has at least one -SO.₃M group (M is a hydrogen atom, ammonium ion NH₄ ⁺Or metal ions such as Na⁺, Li⁺, K⁺, Mg²⁺, Ca²⁺, Cu²⁺, Fe²⁺Or Fe³⁺At least one monomer having an ion). In particular, such -SO₃Bifunctional aromatic monomers containing M groups can be used.
[0075]
In addition to the above -SO₃The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer containing the M group can be selected from, for example, benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl or methylenediphenyl nucleus. In addition -SO₃Examples of bifunctional aromatic monomers containing an M group include sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid or 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid. Preference is given to using copolymers based on isophthalate / sulfoisophthalate, in particular copolymers obtained from the condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid and sulfoisophthalic acid. Such polymers are commercially available, for example, from Eastman Chemical Products under the trademark Eastman AQ®.
[0076]
Naturally-modified arbitrarily modified polymers can be selected from shellac resin, sandelack rubber, dammar, elemis, copal, cellulose polymer, and mixtures thereof.
[0077]
According to a first aspect of the composition of the present invention, the second film-forming polymer is present in the form of particles in an aqueous dispersion, commonly known as latex or pseudolatex. Can do. Techniques for the preparation of these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
[0078]
Examples of aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymers include Avecia-Neoresins, Neocryl XK-90 (registered trademark), Neocryl A-1070 (registered trademark), Neocryl A-1090 (registered trademark), Neocryl BT-62 (registered trademark), Neocryl A-1079 (registered trademark), or Neocryl A-523, marketed by Dow Chemical under the name Dow Latex 432 (registered trademark) and by Daito Kasey Kogyo under the name Diasol 5000 AD (registered trademark). Acrylic acid dispersions; or Neorez R-981 (registered trademark) or Neorez R-974 (registered trademark) by Avecia-Neoresins, Avalure UR-4 by Goodrich 05 (registered trademark), Value UR-410 (registered trademark), Value UR-425 (registered trademark), Value UR-450 (registered trademark), Sancure 875 (registered trademark), Sancure 861 (registered trademark), Sancure 878 (registered trademark) (Registered trademark), Sancure 2060 (registered trademark), an aqueous polyurethane dispersion marketed under the name Impranil 85 (registered trademark) by Beyer or Aquamer H-1511 (registered trademark) by Hydromer can be used.
[0079]
As an aqueous dispersion of the film-forming polymer, the internal and / or partly of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds A polymer dispersion obtained by radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers on the surface can be used. These polymers are generally known as hybrid polymers.
[0080]
According to a second alternative embodiment of the composition of the present invention, the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition in dissolved form. Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers include
-Proteins such as plant-derived proteins such as wheat or soy protein; or animal-derived proteins such as keratins such as keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates;
Anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitosan or chitin polymers;
Cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose or carboxymethyl cellulose, and quaternary cellulose derivatives;
Acrylic acid polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates;
-Vinyl polymers such as polyvinyl pyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and caprolactam Or poly (vinyl alcohol);
-Naturally-modified optionally modified polymers such as:
-Arabic rubber, guar gum, xanthan derivatives or Karaya gum;
・ Alginates and carrageenans;
-Glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives;
-Shellac resin, sandalac rubber, dalmar, elemis or copal;
Deoxyribonucleic acid;
Mention may be made of mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate and mixtures thereof.
[0081]
The size of the polymer particles in the aqueous phase dispersion can be in the range of 5 nm to 600 nm, preferably in the range of 20 nm to 300 nm.
[0082]
The composition of the present invention may contain an adjuvant capable of forming a film that promotes film formation together with the film-forming polymer. Such agents capable of forming a film can be selected from any compound known to those skilled in the art as fulfilling the desired role, and in particular, selected from plasticizers and binders. it can.
[0083]
The composition of the present invention may also contain a coloring substance, such as a powdery coloring substance, a fat-soluble dye or a water-soluble dye. This coloring substance can be present in a content of 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0084]
The powdered coloring material can be selected from pigments and pearlescent agents.
[0085]
The pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Among inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, or cerium oxide, and iron oxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, or ferric blue. Can be mentioned. Among organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.
[0086]
Pearlescent pigments are white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide or bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide mica coated with iron oxide, in particular titanium oxide mica coated with ferric blue or chromium oxide, It can be selected from titanium oxide mica coated with organic pigments of the type and colored pearlescent agents such as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0087]
The fat-soluble dye is, for example, Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5, Quinoline Yellow, or Anato. The water-soluble dye is, for example, beetroot liquid or methylene blue.
[0088]
The composition of the present invention may further contain any additive conventionally used in cosmetics, for example, antioxidants, fillers, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, thickeners, cosmetic or dermatological agents. Active ingredients such as emollients, humectants, vitamins or sunscreens, and mixtures thereof. These additives are present in a content of 0% to 20% by weight (especially 0.01 to 20% by weight), preferably 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (If it exists)
[0089]
It goes without saying that the person skilled in the art takes care in the selection of any additive and / or its amount so that the intended addition does not detract or substantially detract from the advantageous properties of the composition of the invention. Will.
[0090]
The composition of this invention can be manufactured by the well-known method normally used in the cosmetics or the dermatology field | area.
[0091]
【Example】
The invention is illustrated in more detail by the following examples.
[0092]
Example 1:
A mascara having the following composition was prepared:

[0093]
This mascara is easily applied during and after application and adheres well to the eyelashes. The eyelashes are made up quickly. Mascara gives an immediate increase in eyelashes.
[0094]
Example 2:
A mascara having the following composition was prepared:

[0095]
This mascara adheres well to the eyelashes during and after application. Good immediate-effect weight increase for eyelashes.
[0096]
Example 3:
a) A microdispersion of carnauba wax having the following composition was prepared:

[0097]
The mixture was homogenized with gentle stirring while heating the wax and surfactant to 90 ° C. Subsequently, water heated to 90 ° C. was added with continued stirring. The mixture was cooled to ambient temperature and ethanol was added to obtain a wax microdispersion having an average particle size of about 170 nm.
[0098]
b) A mascara having the following composition was prepared:

[0099]
This mascara is easily applied during and after application and adheres well to the eyelashes. The eyelashes are made up quickly.
[0100]
Example 4
A mascara having the following composition was prepared:

[0101]
This mascara is easily applied during and after application and adheres well to the eyelashes. The eyelashes are made up quickly. Increases the immediate effect of eyelashes.

Claims (47)

A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a wax-in-water emulsion and at least one first polyamide polymer having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, wherein the first polyamide polymer is at least Comprising a polymer backbone having a hydrocarbon repeating unit having one non-pendant amide unit and at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain, wherein the fatty chain is optionally functionalized, A composition having 8 to 120 carbon atoms and bonded to these amide units. The composition of claim 1, wherein the average molecular weight of the first polymer is less than 50000. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fatty chain occupies 40 to 98% of the total number of amide units and fatty chains. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the fatty chain occupies 50 to 95% of the total number of amide units and fatty chains. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the pendant fatty chain is directly bonded to at least one nitrogen atom of the amide unit. The composition according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 5, wherein the average molecular weight of the first polymer is 1000 to 100,000, preferably 1000 to 50000, and more preferably 1000 to 30000. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the weight average molecular weight of the first film-forming polymer is in the range of 2000 to 20000, preferably in the range of 2000 to 10,000. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the terminal fatty chain (s) are bound to the skeleton via a linking group. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the linking group is an ester group. 10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty chain (s) has from 12 to 68 carbon atoms. Said first polymer is represented by the following formula (I):

Wherein n represents the number of amide units such that the number of ester groups occupies 10 to 50% of the total number of esters and amide groups; each R ¹ is independently at least 4 carbons An alkyl or alkenyl group having an atom; each R ² independently represents a C _{4 to} C ₄₂ hydrocarbon group, but 50% of the R ² groups represent a C _{30 to} C ₄₂ hydrocarbon group; Each of R ³ independently represents an organic group having at least 2 carbon atoms, a hydrogen atom and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms; R ⁴ independently represents a hydrogen atom, C _1; To a C ₁₀ alkyl group or a direct bond to R ³ or other R ^4, and the nitrogen atom to which both R ³ and R ⁴ are bonded is a heterocycle defined by R ⁴ —N—R ³ Forming part of the structure, at least 50% of the R ⁴ groups represent hydrogen atoms)
11. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 selected from polymers of the following and mixtures thereof. The composition according to claim 11, wherein R ¹ is a C _{12 to} C ₂₂ alkyl group. The composition according to claim 11 or 12, wherein R ² is a group having 30 to 42 carbon atoms. The first polymer is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.1% to 14. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims present in a content in the range of 3% by weight. 15. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one wax having a melting point temperature of greater than 30 <0> C and up to 120 <0> C. Beeswax, lanolin wax, white wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, auricurie wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, wood wax, and smack wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, ceresin wax , Lignite wax, polyethylene wax, wax obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, catalyzed hydrogen of animal or vegetable oils having fatty acid esters and glycerides that are solid at 40 ° C., linear or branched C _{8 to} C ₃₂ fatty acids The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, comprising a wax selected from the group consisting of wax obtained by crystallization, silicone wax, fluorinated wax, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, comprising a wax having a hardness in the range of 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa. 18. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the wax is dispersed in the form of particles of average size in the range of 50 nm to 10 [mu] m, preferably 50 nm to 3.5 [mu] m. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the wax is dispersed in the form of particles of average size in the range of 1 [mu] m to 10 [mu] m, preferably 1 [mu] m to 3.5 [mu] m. 19. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the wax is dispersed in the form of particles of average size less than 1 [mu] m, preferably in the range of 50 nm to 500 nm. The wax has a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 21. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20 present. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21, comprising a second film-forming polymer different from the first polymer. 23. The composition of claim 22, wherein the second film-forming polymer is selected from vinyl polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, and cellulose polymers. 24. A composition according to claim 22 or 23, wherein the second film-forming polymer is dissolved in the aqueous phase. The composition according to claim 22 or 23, wherein the second film-forming polymer is in the form of particles in an aqueous dispersion. The second film-forming polymer is 0.1 wt% to 60 wt%, preferably 0.5 wt% to 40 wt%, more preferably 1 wt% to 26. A composition according to any one of claims 22 to 25, present in a content in the range of 30% by weight. 27. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 26 comprising an emulsifying surfactant. 28. The composition according to claim 27, wherein the emulsifying surfactant is present in a content of 2 to 30%, preferably 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 29. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous phase comprises a water miscible organic solvent. The water-miscible organic solvent is composed of lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, C ₃ -C ₄ ketones and C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes. 30. The composition of claim 29, selected from the group. The composition according to claim 29 or 30, wherein the water-miscible organic solvent is selected from the group consisting of ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol. 30. The water miscible organic solvent is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 32. The composition of any one of thru | or 31. Said aqueous phase consisting of water and optionally a water-miscible organic solvent is 1% to 95%, preferably 5% to 80%, more preferably 10% to 33. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, present in a content in the range of 60% by weight. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 33, further comprising at least one coloring substance. 35. The composition of claim 34, wherein the coloring material is selected from pigments, pearlescent agents, water soluble dyes and mixtures thereof. 36. The method according to claim 34 or 35, wherein the coloring substance is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition as described. 37. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 36, comprising a thickener. 38. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a composition for the care or makeup of keratin materials. 39. Any one of claims 1-38 comprising at least one additive selected from antioxidants, fillers, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizing agents, cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, oils, and mixtures thereof. A composition according to 1. For mascara, eyeliner, product for eyebrows, product for lips, face powder or eye shadow, foundation, product for body makeup, concealer, nail polish, product for skin care, or hair 40. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, provided in the form of a product. 41. A mascara comprising the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 40. 41. A cosmetic method for making up or caring for human keratin materials comprising applying the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 40 to keratin materials. 41. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 40 for forming an adhesive layer on a keratin material and / or for forming a rapid make-up on a keratin material. 42. Use of a mascara according to claim 41 for rapidly thickening and / or lengthening eyelashes. An underwater wax-type emulsion for forming an adhesive layer on keratin materials and / or for rapid make-up of keratin materials and / or for rapidly thickening eyelashes and / or lengthening eyelashes The use of a combination of at least a first polyamide polymer and at least one wax in a physiologically acceptable composition of the form wherein the first polyamide polymer has a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000. More preferably less than 50000 and comprising a polymer backbone having hydrocarbon repeating units having at least one non-pendant amide unit and at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain. The fatty chain is optionally functionalized and has 8 to 120 carbon atoms, Are those coupled to the unit, use. 46. Use according to claim 45, wherein the first polymer is a polyamide comprising end groups comprising ester groups comprising hydrocarbon chains having 10 to 42 carbon atoms. 47. The composition of claim 45 or 46, wherein the first polymer exhibits a weight average molecular weight in the range of 1000 to 30000.