【０００１】
〔発明の属する技術分野〕本発明は布地とジッパーテープの伸縮機能性の縫製方法に関する。
【０００２】
〔従来の技術〕従来、例えば本願者の米国特許６１６４２２７号や特許３１７２８３６号に開示されているようにライクラ（Ｌｙｃｒａ）（エ・イ・デュポン・ド・ヌムール・アンド・カンパニー（Ｅ・Ｉ・Ｄｕ Ｐｏｎｔ ｄｅ Ｎｅｍｏｕｒｓ ＆ Ｃｏ．）社製。商品名）のようなスパンデックス、即ち伸縮性糸により織られた伸縮性布地（以下、「ライクラ地」という。）や、一般にジッパーテープと呼ばれる（ＹＫＫ・ＴＡＬＯＮ・ＬＩＬＩ社製商品名。）のようなジッパーテープはライクラ地と縫い合せると伸上りの波打現象で縫製ねぢれの欠陥を起す方法で知られている、これらのこれらの前特許３１７２８３６号の図４（ａ）に示すようにまずジッパーテプ３０は伸縮性糸布（ライクラ）テープ部で３１はスライダー噛ませ部３１と反対側の衣類等の他の布地に縫い付ける側に伸縮性糸を用いこの伸縮性糸を伸ばしながら同時に一本のジッパーテープ３３に織り込み、この時点で伸縮性糸からなるジッパーテープ３３の両側はそれそれ逆Ｃ字及びＣ字状に変形する６頁〜１２〜一段に書かれている方法は本発明の先の特許でこれが人類の伸縮率ジッパーテープの基礎の発見・発明である特許３１７２８３６号方法。
【０００３】
〔発明が解決しょうとする課題〕しかしながらこの最良の伸縮ジッパーテープをこの方法で製造しょうとすると製造しょうとするジッパー３０から３２を伸縮性糸布ライクラ糸を織りこむと本発明も同じの伸縮率２〜４％よりも大きく伸上りのジッパーテープが出来てそれに加え伸縮性糸ライクラを伸ばし織の伸び率織が難しく平約の伸長と縮み力３％はずでも１０％にも変ったりしてジッパーテプの伸縮バラ付で製造コスト高となってしまう事が分った。
【０００４】
そこで本発明の目的は上記の点に鑑み、この発明の原理を維持しながら、関単にジッパーテープをそのまゝ伸縮機能を有する方法で図１（ａ）ジッパーテープの裏側に伸縮ミシン糸のウーリーミシン糸１を左側に縫いつける方法で逆Ｃ状形縮みステッチを発明した、それから右側テープ１ＡがＣ状形ステッチが形成されジッパーテープ（計２本組合せ）た伸縮ウーリミシン糸又はライクラミシン糸の張力となって伸縮逆ＣとＣ状形縮みジッパーテープはコスト的にも伸長率の仕上りも優れた方法である。
【０００５】
この本発明の方法は通常の伸上り過ぎの３％のジッパーテープは不良品にもなっているが、この場合ウーリーミシン糸下糸ボビンを強くする事によって縫い付けると伸上り過ぎも解消される利点も有るので通常１％の伸上りジッパーテープを縮めテープにするのは関単に修正されるので波打現象を起さないジッパーテープは故障も少くするのである
【０００６】
〔課題を解決するための手段〕本発明の発明者はジッパーテープの左側はミンン縫製において手前の伸上り波打現象を起し、右側は前方向を大きく伸上り前方向波打現象を起すジッパーテープは２本が一組でありミシン機送り伸張率を（都技研究所に測定を調べた所）左テープ約１．９Ｎ（約０．２ｋｇｆ）で右テープ約５．９Ｎ（約０．６ｋｇｆ）の伸張率の大きな違いを判明した、その伸張率をテープ伸長で人口的に何％の平約の長さ限定で左波打と右波打を一定の３％〜３．５％伸長方法はないかと考えた。
【０００７】
通常のジッパーテープはスライダー部分よりも縫製部は平約１％伸上りテープで製造されているが、他の布地に縫い合せると左テープは２％左テープは４％平約でさらに伸び上る寸法違いが発生するが、本来の目的は同寸になるのが望ましい、そこで本発明者はジッパーテープ上に反撥バネを思いついたのが前発明特許３１７２８３６号の反撥原理力で吊り橋のワイヤーに相当する効果を伸縮性糸布方法からミシン糸の伸縮ウーリーミシン糸又はライクラミシン糸を吊り橋のワイヤーに見立てゝ本発明を完成させるに至った。
【０００８】
即ち請求項１記載の発明は、伸縮性ミシン糸を用いたジッパーテープの縫製方法であって一方のジッパーテープの裏面に伸縮性ウーリーミシン又はライクラミシン縫糸で縫い付けて、もう一方のジッパーテープの裏面にも同じ縫糸で縫い付ける縫製方法において、左ジッパーテープを逆Ｃ字形状に右ジッパーはＣ字形状にわざと縮み縫いを形成して伸縮性ミシン糸縫されたジッパーテープは縫製中に伸縮性を有するジッパーテープ。
【０００９】
請求項２記載の発明は前記ジッパーテープを用いた布地の縫製方法であって、伸縮性縮みジッパーテープ左逆Ｃ右Ｃ字状テプを布地に向って、その長さ方向に２〜４％又は２〜６％の伸長で伸張させた状態で当接させて布地をジッパーテープの左テープと右テープをミシンステッチで縫い合す事によってジッパーテープは逆Ｃ及びＣ字形状が変化して真すぐに形状縫い合わされる。
【００１０】
請求項３記載の発明は通常の１％伸上りジッパーテープを修正して伸上りを縮める方法において、伸縮性ミシン糸を利用した物でミシン下糸にウーリーミシン及はライクラミシン糸を巻き付けて、布地とジッパーテープを縫い合せる方法で、左テープ約２％伸長してから次の右テープは４〜６％伸長は手動とミシン張力で縫い合せ用ジッパーテープは伸長率６％限度用を作製するテープと伸縮性ミシン糸。
【００１１】
請求項４記載の発明は前発明の２〜４％伸長テープを非伸縮糸での伸張を作り出すために糸たるみ６％で伸長出来るジッパーテープをライクラ糸布に縫い付ける方法において、ジッパーテープの下側にライクラ地を重ね合せて、次にミシン上糸は下糸をつり上げる時ライクラ地の部分からライクラ糸部分を同時につり上げる為にたるみ６％ジッパーテープが必要となる、まずたるみ６％の縦糸がたるみ織りでミシン機針はテープの中央に穴を開く役目をして上糸が下糸をつり上げる時、道連れでライクラ糸がジッパーテープに合体縫いされる仕組が発生するとジッパーテープ６％の伸上り現象も起さずジッパーの操作性が改善できるのは６％伸長ジッパーテープの製造方によるライクラ地との縫製は伸縮で復元の方法である。
【００１２】
本発明の伸縮性ジッパーテープは伸張率・伸縮率を表す方法で従来云われる自由自在ではない。本来伸縮率は限度が必要でジッパーテープも伸縮反撥力が必要とされるミシン工学の方法は今だに知られていない、又ジッパーテープも伸上り１％常態も知られていないので通常のジッパーテープと布地で縫い上りは左もＣ字形状に伸上り右もＣ字形状伸上りで復元しないが本発明はジッパーも布地も伸張力（吊り橋のワイヤーに相当する効果）方法の伸縮の物理法則の方法である。
【００１３】
〔発明の実施の形態〕以下、本発明の実施の一形態を図に基づいて説明する。図１（ａ）〜（ｄ）は本発明の第１の縫製するジッパーテープの手順を模式的に説明する説明図であり、図２（ａ）は本発明の伸縮機能ジッパーテープを布地本体に縫いつける手順を示す説明図であり、図３（ａ）〜（ｃ）は、本発明の第２及び第３の縫製方法の手順を模式的に説明する説明図であり、図４（ａ）〜（ｄ）は本発明の第１の縫製したジッパーテープを衣類本体に縫いつける手順を示す説明図であり、図５（ａ）は従来のジッパーテープの内股縮曲りで外伸びしたジッパー図と実物写真であり、図６（ａ）〜（ｂ）は非伸縮織糸のたるみ織り糸の手順を示す説明図である
【００１４】
本発明の第１の縫製方法ではジッパーテープの裏側に、伸縮性ミシン糸を縫製する場合、まず図１（ａ）〜（ｄ）に示すように（ａ）シッパーテープの左側にウーリーミシン糸又はライクラミシン糸１で縫い付けるとミシン糸が縮んで逆Ｃ形状に次は右側もウーリーミシン糸縫いでＣ字形状に変形すると伸縮性を有するジッパーテープ。
【００１５】
この場合伸縮性縫ミシン糸付ジッパーテープの布地と縫い合せる時、その長さ方向に２〜４％又は２〜６％で伸張しその張力が解除されたとき元の形状に復元して、ジッパーと布地が縫い合される伸縮性ミシン糸はウーリーミシン又はライクラミシン糸は伸縮性を有する物であれば縫糸ジッパーテープは特に限定されない。
【００１６】
さらに本発明のジッパーテープ伸縮性技術的縫製方法で図２（ａ）に示すようにミシン針１１は上糸１４で下糸ウーリーミシン糸１５をボビン１２と１６からすくい持上げる、伸縮性糸を利用してジッパーテープ左８と右９を布地１０で縫い合されるジッパー手持部１８で右側ジッパーは約４％〜６％の伸長が望ましい又その伸長で伸上りを起さない方法で、下糸ウーリーミシン糸が必要となる本発明は東京都立技術研究所に伸長テストを重ね、依頼した結果ジッパーと布地の縫い合せ伸張率は左２％はミシン送力約１．９Ｎ（約０．２ｋｇｆ）で右ジッパーテープはミシンの逆送り１７で１９Ａ方向となり、やむなく手動力１８で４〜６％引張右ジッパー９は約５．９Ｎ（約０．６ｋｇｆ）の伸長テスト成績書で伸張率がわかったのでその伸縮力をウーリーミシン糸とライクラ糸の縫い糸で発見発明したのでジッパー伸長２〜６％で縫いで布地を重ね縫い合されたとき元の形に復元する。
【００１７】
また、伸縮性糸布地ライクラ地の場合に限り上記ウーリーミシン糸又はライクラミシン糸のジッパーの伸縮性を助け役を代用する方法で図３（ａ）２１上糸ミシン糸は下糸２２をすくい上げる時その下糸の道づれにライクラ糸布の糸部２３もすくい上げられるその場合ジッパーテープの織糸は縦糸たるみ織りで伸長率２〜４％に限定されるたるみの加工糸織でありホックで例えるとテープは座金穴メス役となる、次のライクラ糸すくい上げ部の糸はその穴部ハメ込まれ糸凸部のオス役となり、その穴部の大きさはたるみ伸長率２〜４％穴Ｘである。
【００１８】
図５（ａ）〜（ｂ）は本発明者前特許第３１７２８３６号の物であり次の（ｃ）〜（ｄ）の説明の目的で説明する物で本発明で左テープ２４は逆Ｃ縮みで右ジッパーテープはＣ形状は同じであるが先発明（ａ）〜（ｂ）は伸縮糸は織り込まれているのに対して次の（ｃ）〜ｄ）はライクラ縫いのテープ作製後に縫いつけ方法の違いてあるのは、先発明はそのテープ図４（ａ）ライクラ織部３０〜３３は縦糸にライクラ糸小量本数だけ伸長織は技術的に難しく又伸長織した場合２〜４％の限定伸縮織はさらに困難をきわめ、大巾なコスト高となった又ジッパテープは製造過程でスライダー取付中に縮む方向に出来上ってしまうのが約１％でそれで反対側の縫い付部が伸上り常態で出来上ると１％の伸上りとなり、布地と縫い合せるとさらに５％伸上る仕組となる、それで本発明は伸び上らない方法を思考錯誤の末図１の（ａ）１のウーリーミシン糸伸縮力で図５（ｃ）〜（ｄ）の逆Ｃテープ２４とＣ形状２５ジッパーテープを完成した。
【００１９】
図５（ａ）は通常の従来ジッパーテープ２６は伸上り説明図と写真で約１％スライダーの反対側が伸上りの実物であるテープ２６は布地２７とミシンステッチ２８で縫い合せでさらに伸上る。
【００２０】
図６（ａ）は米国特公開中の布帛織りの１が縦糸２が横糸その図（ｂ）は本発明の説明する２は縦糸に変り１は横糸となって本発明の目的縦たるみ部形成した空き間部Ｘである。
【００２１】
〔実施例〕以下、本発明の実施の態様を実施例を挙げて説明するが、本発明はこれらに限定されるものではない。
〔実施例１〕
本発明の方法により、伸縮性ミシン糸（ウーリー糸又はライクラ糸）縫糸ジッパーテープ図４（ｃ）〜（ｄ）を用いて衣服図４（ｂ）を縫製した。その図４（ｃ）ジッパーテープ右側２５は図４（ｂ）衣服の３３ジッパーテープの取付部３５に図４（ｃ）右側２５を取付又は縫付した説明図である。そのジッパーテープのミシンステッチは図１（ａ）の伸縮性ミシン糸のステッチ１で縫い付けられた縮み縫いである。
【００２２】
次はそのジッパーテープを縫い付ける方法である図２（ａ）はジッパーテープ左側８を布地１０を重ね合せてその長さ方向に約２％伸長させた状態で縫い合せ、次は右側ジッパー９を布地１０を重ね合せてその９ジッパーテープを手持１８によって、４〜６％伸長させた状態で平約伸長率３％〜３．５％でジッパーテープと布地に縫い合されると、ウーリー糸又はライクラミシン糸で左逆Ｃテープ右Ｃ状縮みテープが直っすぐに縫い上りを形成される。
【００２３】
この方法によると従来のジッパーテープ約１％伸上りもウーリーミシン糸やライクラ糸での縮み力で１％伸上りも元の寸法の同寸に復元するので、通常のジッパーテープに比べて格段に優れ、極めて見栄えが良く伸上りジッパーではない、又従来のジッパーテープをフリース又はライクラ地に同寸で縫いにするため伸上りを防ぐ目的でジッパーテープにさらにパイピングを加え縫された物にくらべ本発明は単に伸縮ステッチのみでコスト的にも低く関単シンプルで出来る工程でねぢれや波打現象も少ない。
【００２４】
〔発明の効果〕本発明の縫製方法によれば衣類や袋物・ＢＡＧのジッパーテープ左側図２（ａ）シッパー８テープと右側ジッパー９テープが伸縮性で縫い付けるのでねぢれ縫いはしないためジッパーテープの開け閉めはスムースな動きが可能となりジッパースライダー噛み合せ不良の破損を改善する、さらにジッパーテープ部も波打ち現象が起きないため、衣類やＢＡＧのラインのきちっとした縫製が可能となり、産業上に果たす役割極めて大きい。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】（ａ）〜（ｄ）は本発明の第１の縫製方法によりジッパーテープ縫製する手順を模式的に示す説明図である。
【図２】（ａ）は本発明の第２の縫製方法によりジッパーテープと布地を縫製する手順を模式的に示す説明図である。
【図３】（ａ）〜（ｄ）は本発明の第３の縫製方法によりジッパーテープとライクラ糸を縫い合せる手順のミシン機構造で縫製する模式的に示す説明図である。
【図４】（ａ）は本発明者特許３１７２８３６号引用ジッパーで（ｂ）はそのシッパーを取り付け方を引用して説明する、（ｃ）〜（ｄ）は本発明のジッパーテープの左右を示す表面側と裏面側の説明図である。
【図５】（ａ）〜（ｃ）は従来のジッパーテープの欠陥の実施例で伸上り現象縫製手順を模式的に説明する説明図である
【図６】（ａ）は本発明者の米国特開００１４３００号の表紙で布帛織の縦織と横織の横糸たるみ織の説明図であり（ｂ）は本発明に使用される、縦織と横織の縦糸たるみ織の説明図である。
【符号の説明】
１…伸縮ミシン糸及ステッチ左側
１Ａ…伸縮ミシン糸・ステッチ右側
２…ミシン糸及ステッチ
３…ジッパーテープ 左側
３Ａ…ジッパーテープ 右側
４…スライダー噛ませ部
５…布地（ジッパー取付用）
５Ａ…布地のジッパー縫付部
６…伸縮ミシンステッチ２本目
７…ミシン糸ステッチ２本目
８…ジッパーテープ左側
９…ジッパーテープ右側
１０…布地（ジッパー取付部）
１１…ミシン針
１２…下糸用ボビンケース
１３…ミシン機の送り金
１４…ミシン上糸
１５…伸縮ミシン糸
１６…ボビン用下糸巻
１７…ミシン機の送り金方向
１８…伸長ジッパーの手持部
１９…伸長ジッパーの方向
１９Ａ…ジッパーテープ右の逆送り方向
２０…ジッパーテープ
２１…ミシン上糸・そのステッチ
２２…ミシン下糸・そのステッチ
２４…ジッパーテープ左側・表逆Ｃ状
２５…ジッパーテーフ右側・表Ｃ状
２４Ａ…裏側ジッパー右テープ・Ｃ状
２５Ａ…裏側ジッパー左テープ・逆Ｃ状
２６…伸上りの通常ジッパーテープその１
２６Ａ…伸上りの通常ジッパーテープその２
２７…伸上りジッパー取付布
２８…伸上りジッパー取付ミシンステッチ
３０…伸縮性糸布テープ部
３１…スライダー噛ませ部
３２…伸縮性糸布テープ部
３３…ジッパーテープ
３５…ジッパー取付け部
ＵＳ１…布帛織横糸直線織上
ＵＳ２…布帛織たるみ縦糸 左
ＵＳ１Ａ…布帛織横糸直線織下
ＵＳ２Ａ…布帛織たるみ縦糸 右
Ｘ…織交差にライクラ糸侵入空き間[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for sewing a fabric and a zipper tape with elasticity.
[0002]
2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as disclosed in, for example, U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,164,227 and 3,172,836 of the present applicant, Lycra (EI DuPont de Nemours and Company (EI Du) (Pond de Nemours & Co.), a stretchy fabric woven from stretchable yarns (trade name) such as stretchable yarn (hereinafter, referred to as “lycra fabric”), and generally called zipper tape (YKK TALON). A zipper tape such as LILI is a method known to produce sewing wetting defects due to the wavy phenomenon of elongation when stitched with lycra fabric. As shown in FIG. 4A, first, the zipper tape 30 is an elastic thread cloth (lycra) tape portion, and 31 is a slider biting portion 31. Using an elastic thread on the side to be sewn to another cloth such as clothing on the other side, while stretching this elastic thread, simultaneously woven into one zipper tape 33, at this time both sides of the zipper tape 33 made of the elastic thread The method described in pages 6 to 12 to one step which is transformed into an inverted C-shape and C-shape respectively is the earlier patent of the present invention, which is the discovery and invention of the basics of human elasticity zipper tapes. Method.
[0003]
[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] However, when the best stretchable zipper tape is manufactured by this method, when the zippers 30 to 32 to be manufactured are woven with a stretchable lycra yarn, the present invention has the same stretch ratio. A zipper tape with a stretch greater than 2-4% can be made, and in addition, stretchable yarn lycra is stretched, making it difficult to weave the stretch rate. It was found that the production cost would be high due to the expansion and contraction of.
[0004]
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In view of the above, the object of the present invention is to maintain the principle of the present invention, and simply apply a zipper tape to the back side of the zipper tape by a method having an elastic function while maintaining the principle of the present invention. Invented a reverse C-shaped contraction stitch by sewing the sewing thread 1 to the left side, and then tensioned a stretchable wooly sewing thread or lycra sewing thread with a right tape 1A formed with a C-shaped stitch and a zipper tape (two in total). As a result, the C and C-shaped shrinkable zipper tapes are excellent in terms of cost and elongation rate.
[0005]
In the method of the present invention, the normal overstretched 3% zipper tape is also defective, but in this case, the overstretching is also eliminated by sewing by strengthening the bobbin of the wooly sewing thread. Since there is also an advantage, it is usually easy to correct shrinking a 1% stretched zipper tape into a tape, so that a zipper tape that does not cause a waving phenomenon has fewer failures.
[Means for Solving the Problems] The inventor of the present invention provides a zipper tape in which the left side of the zipper tape causes a front upward waving phenomenon in the minning sewing, and the right side of the zipper tape largely extends in the front direction and causes a forward waving phenomenon. Two tapes are one set, and the feed elongation ratio of the sewing machine (measured by Tokyo Institute of Technology) was about 1.9N (about 0.2 kgf) for the left tape and about 5.9N (about 0.2 kgf) for the right tape. 6kgf) The elongation rate was found to be a big difference. The elongation rate was 3% to 3.5% for the left and right undulations with a limited tape length by a certain amount. I thought there was a way.
[0007]
Normal zipper tape is manufactured with a 1% stretched tape at the sewn area than the slider part, but when sewn to other fabrics, the left tape is 2% and the left tape is 4% flat and stretches further. Although a difference occurs, it is desirable that the original purpose be the same size. Therefore, the inventor came up with a rebound spring on the zipper tape, which corresponds to the wire of the suspension bridge due to the repulsion principle force of the prior invention patent 3172,836. The effect of the present invention is based on the assumption that the stretchable wooly sewing thread or the lycra sewing thread of the sewing thread is used as the wire of the suspension bridge from the stretching thread cloth method. The present invention has been completed.
[0008]
That is, the invention according to claim 1 is a method for sewing a zipper tape using an elastic sewing thread, wherein the zipper tape is sewn to the back surface of one zipper tape with an elastic woolly sewing machine or a lycra sewing machine sewing thread, and the other zipper tape is sewn. In the sewing method that the same sewing thread is sewn on the back side, the left zipper tape is reversely C-shaped and the right zipper is deliberately formed into a C-shaped shrinkable sewing. The zipper tape sewn with the sewing thread is elastic during sewing. With a zipper tape.
[0009]
The invention according to claim 2 is a method for sewing a fabric using the zipper tape, wherein the elastic shrinkable zipper tape has a left-reverse C right C-shaped tape in the length direction of the cloth toward the fabric by 2 to 4% or The left and right tapes of the zipper tape are sewn together with a sewing machine stitch, and the zipper tape is straightened by changing the reverse C and C-shape. The shape is stitched together.
[0010]
The invention according to claim 3 is a method of correcting a normal 1% elongation zipper tape to shorten the elongation, wherein a woolly sewing machine or a lycra sewing machine yarn is wound around a sewing lower thread with an elastic sewing machine thread, By sewing the fabric and zipper tape, stretch the left tape by about 2%, then stretch the next right tape by 4-6%, manually and with sewing machine tension. Tape and elastic sewing thread.
[0011]
The invention as claimed in claim 4 is a method of sewing a zipper tape capable of extending a 2-4% stretch tape of the previous invention with 6% of slack to a Lycra thread cloth to create an extension with a non-stretchable yarn. When the lycra fabric is overlaid on the side, and then the sewing machine upper thread lifts the lower thread, a 6% slack zipper tape is required to simultaneously lift the lycra thread from the lycra fabric part. The sewing machine needle has a role of opening a hole in the center of the tape by sagging, and when the upper thread lifts the lower thread, the lycra thread is united to the zipper tape by the way, and the zipper tape elongates by 6% if a mechanism occurs. The reason why the operability of the zipper can be improved without causing a phenomenon is that the sewing with the lycra fabric by the method of manufacturing the 6% stretched zipper tape is a method of restoring by stretching.
[0012]
The stretchable zipper tape of the present invention is not free as conventionally known in a method of expressing an extension rate and an extension rate. Originally, there is no known method of sewing machine engineering that requires a limit of expansion and contraction and the zipper tape also needs expansion and rebound resilience, and neither zipper tape nor 1% elongation normal zipper The sew-up with tape and fabric stretches to the left and C-shape, and the right does not restore by the C-shape stretch. However, the present invention applies to the physical law of expansion and contraction of the zipper and the fabric by the stretching force (effect equivalent to the wire of a suspension bridge). This is the method.
[0013]
[Embodiment of the Invention] An embodiment of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings. FIGS. 1 (a) to 1 (d) are explanatory views schematically explaining the procedure of the first zipper tape to be sewn according to the present invention, and FIG. FIG. 3A to FIG. 3C are explanatory diagrams schematically illustrating the procedure of sewing, and FIG. 3A to FIG. 3C are schematic diagrams illustrating procedures of the second and third sewing methods according to the present invention. FIG. 5D is an explanatory view showing a procedure of sewing the first sewn zipper tape of the present invention to the clothing main body, and FIG. 6 (a) and 6 (b) are explanatory diagrams showing the procedure of the sagging yarn of the non-stretchable yarn.
When the elastic sewing thread is sewn on the back side of the zipper tape in the first sewing method of the present invention, first, as shown in FIGS. 1 (a) to 1 (d), (a) a wooly sewing thread or When sewn with Lycra sewing thread 1, the sewing thread shrinks and turns into an inverted C shape.
[0015]
In this case, when sewn with the fabric of the zipper tape with elastic sewing machine thread, it is stretched by 2-4% or 2-6% in its length direction, and when the tension is released, the original shape is restored and the zipper is restored. The sewing thread zipper tape is not particularly limited as long as the woolly sewing machine or the lycra sewing machine thread has elasticity.
[0016]
2 (a), the sewing needle 11 lifts the lower thread woolly sewing thread 15 from the bobbins 12 and 16 with the upper thread 14 as shown in FIG. The left zipper tape 8 is sewn to the left 8 and the right 9 with the cloth 10, and the right zipper is preferably stretched by about 4% to 6%. In the present invention, which requires thread wooly sewing thread, repeated extension tests were conducted at the Tokyo Metropolitan R & D Center. As a result of the request, the zipper and fabric stitching elongation rate was 2% on the left, and the sewing machine feeding power was about 1.9N (about 0.2kgf). ) in the right zipper tape becomes a reverse feed 17 19 a direction of the sewing machine, it is forced manual force 18 4-6% tensile right zipper 9 is about 5.9N (about 0.6kgf) extension test results document in the expansion rate of the I understand that Stretching force was discovered by using a wooly sewing thread and a lycra thread, and the fabric was restored to its original shape when the fabric was sewn and sewn with a zipper extension of 2 to 6%.
[0017]
Also, only in the case of a stretchable lycra fabric, a method of assisting the stretchability of the wooly sewing thread or lycra sewing thread zipper as shown in FIG. The yarn portion 23 of the lycra yarn cloth is also scooped up along the way of the lower thread. In this case, the woven yarn of the zipper tape is a warp sagging weave and a slack processed yarn woven limited to an elongation of 2 to 4%. The next thread of the lycra scoop-up portion serving as a washer hole female portion is inserted into the hole portion and serves as a male portion of the thread convex portion, and the size of the hole portion is a hole X with a slack elongation rate of 2 to 4%.
[0018]
FIGS. 5 (a) and 5 (b) are those of the inventor's patent No. 3,172,836, which will be described for the purpose of the following description of (c) to (d). Although the right zipper tape has the same C shape, the prior inventions (a) and (b) have woven elastic fibers, while the following (c) to (d) have the sewn method after the lycra tape is produced. The difference is that in the prior invention, the tape of FIG. 4 (a) has a Lycra woven portion 30 to 33 which is technically difficult to stretch and weave by a small number of Lycra yarns in the warp, and has a limited expansion and contraction of 2 to 4% when stretched. Weaving became even more difficult, cost increased, and the zipper tape was shrunk in the manufacturing process in the direction of shrinking during the slider installation, and about 1%, so the sewn part on the opposite side stretched normally. 1% elongation when finished with, 5% more when sewn with fabric As a result, the present invention is based on the thinking and error of the method that does not elongate, and the reverse C tape 24 and the C shape shown in FIGS. Completed 25 zipper tapes.
[0019]
FIG. 5 (a) shows a conventional conventional zipper tape 26 in an explanatory view and a photograph of elongation. The tape 26, which is an actual object having an elongate side opposite to the slider by about 1%, is further elongated by sewing the fabric 27 and the sewing machine stitch 28 together.
[0020]
FIG. 6 (a) is a U.S. patent publication of a fabric weave, in which 1 is a warp and 2 is a weft. FIG. 6 (b) is a description of the present invention, 2 is a warp, and 1 is a weft to form a warp sag. This is the empty space X that has been set.
[0021]
[Embodiments] Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
[Example 1]
According to the method of the present invention, the garment shown in FIG. 4B was sewn using the elastic sewing thread (Woolie thread or Lycra thread) sewing thread zipper tape shown in FIGS. 4C to 4D. The right side 25 of the zipper tape in FIG. 4C is an explanatory view in which the right side 25 in FIG. The sewing stitch of the zipper tape is a compression stitch which is sewn by the stitch 1 of the elastic sewing thread shown in FIG.
[0022]
Next, a method of sewing the zipper tape is shown in FIG. 2 (a). The left side of the zipper tape 8 is sewn in a state where the fabric 10 is overlapped and stretched by about 2% in the length direction, and then the right zipper 9 is sewn. When the fabric 10 is overlaid and the zipper tape 9 is stretched 4 to 6% by hand 18 and sewn to the zipper tape and the fabric at an average elongation of 3% to 3.5%, a wooly thread or The left reverse C tape and the right C-shaped shrink tape are formed immediately with the lycra sewing thread.
[0023]
According to this method, the conventional zipper tape is about 1% elongation and the 1% elongation is restored to the same size as the original size by the shrinkage force of the wooly sewing thread or lycra thread. Excellent, very good looking and not a stretch zipper.In addition, conventional zipper tape is sewn on fleece or lycra ground to the same size. The present invention is a process which can be performed simply and simply with expansion / contraction stitches at a low cost and is simple and simple.
[0024]
[Effect of the Invention] According to the sewing method of the present invention, the zipper tape for clothes, bags, and BAGs (FIG. 2A) on the left side of FIG. Opening and closing the tape enables smooth movement and improves breakage of poor engagement with the zipper slider. Furthermore, since the zipper tape does not have a waving phenomenon, clothing and BAG lines can be properly sewn, which is achieved in industry. The role is extremely large.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIGS. 1A to 1D are explanatory views schematically showing procedures for sewing a zipper tape by a first sewing method of the present invention.
FIG. 2A is an explanatory view schematically showing a procedure for sewing a zipper tape and a fabric by a second sewing method of the present invention.
FIGS. 3 (a) to 3 (d) are explanatory views schematically showing sewing with a sewing machine structure in a procedure of sewing a zipper tape and a lycra thread by a third sewing method of the present invention.
FIG. 4 (a) is a zipper cited by the inventor of the present invention, No. 3172836, and FIG. 4 (b) is a description of how to attach the shipper. FIGS. 4 (c) to (d) show the left and right of the zipper tape of the present invention. It is explanatory drawing of the front side and the back side.
FIGS. 5 (a) to 5 (c) are explanatory views schematically illustrating a sewing procedure of an elongation phenomenon in an example of a defect of a conventional zipper tape. FIGS. 6 (a) to 6 (a) show the present inventors' US It is explanatory drawing of the warp sagging of the warp weaving and weft of the cloth weave on the cover of JP-A-0014300, and (b) is an explanatory diagram of the warp sagging of the warp weaving and the weft used in the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
1 ... elastic sewing Ito及stitch left 1 A ... stretch sewing thread stitch right 2 ... sewing Ito及stitch 3 ... zipper tape left 3 A ... zipper tape right 4 ... slider bite was 5 ... fabric (for zipper attached)
5 A : Cloth zipper sewing section 6: Second stretch sewing stitch 7: Second sewing thread stitch 8: Zipper tape left 9: Zipper tape right 10: Cloth (zipper mounting part)
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 11 ... Sewing machine needle 12 ... Bobbin case 13 for bobbin thread 13 ... Sewing machine feed thread 14 ... Sewing machine upper thread 15 ... Telescopic sewing thread 16 ... Bobbin lower thread winding 17 ... Sewing machine machine feeding direction 18 ... Extension zipper hand-held part 19 ... Direction of extension zipper 19 A ... Reverse feed direction 20 to the right of zipper tape 20 ... Zipper tape 21 ... Sewing machine upper thread and its stitch 22 ... Sewing machine lower thread and its stitch 24 ... Zipper tape left side / front inverted C shape 25 ... Zipper right side・ Table C-shaped 24 A・ ・ ・ Rear zipper right tape ・ C-shaped 25 A・ ・ ・ Back zipper left tape ・ Inverted C-shaped 26 ・ ・ ・ Extended normal zipper tape 1
26 A : Normal Zipper Tape Part 2
27 ... extension zipper attachment cloth 28 ... extension zipper attachment sewing stitch 30 ... elastic thread tape part 31 ... slider biting part 32 ... elastic thread cloth tape part 33 ... zipper tape 35 ... zipper attachment part
US 1 ... Fabric woven weft straight weave
US 2: Fabric woven sagging warp left
US 1A ... fabric woven weft straight weave
US 2 A … Slope warp yarn right X… Lycra yarn intrusion at woven intersection
