JP2002507547A - Formulations and methods for caring for keratin fibers - Google Patents

Abstract

  (57) [Summary] The present invention relates to a keratin fiber care composition comprising at least 6% by weight of an oil component and at least one nonionic emulsifier, present as a microemulsion having an average droplet diameter of less than 400 nm, comprising a compound of formula (I) : UQ (I) wherein U is a UV absorbing group and Q is a group containing at least one quaternary ammonium functional group. ] The composition also contains a UV absorbing component A represented by the formula:

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

TECHNICAL FIELD [0001] The present invention relates to a composition for the care of keratin fibers in the form of a microemulsion, and to a method for the care of keratin fibers using said composition.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Today, human hair is treated in various ways using hair care preparations. These include, for example, shampooing, rinsing and conditioning of the hair and rinsing, and bleaching, dyeing and coloring preparations, bleaching, dyeing and styling of the hair with waving and styling preparations. Apart from the original purpose of such formulations, attention has also been paid to achieving prevention of damage by such formulations. Of particular importance in this regard is the protection from the effects of excessive light exposure, which can be caused by the UV components of sunlight, especially in mountains and seas.

It is known to use compositions containing inorganic pigments or organic UV filters (for example those based on benzophenone or cinnamic acid) to protect the skin and hair from sunlight. However, such compositions have the disadvantage that the amount of active ingredient present on the hair is low, especially when prepared as a rinse-off formulation. As a result, the protective effect achieved by such formulations is usually inadequate or less satisfactory.

Attempts to solve such problems have led to the development of new derivatives of known UV filters that have a cationic group in addition to the UV absorbing moiety. Thereby, the abundance of such substances on the hair is significantly increased. However, there is a problem that the distribution of the filter adsorbed on the hair is not uniform. This problem can be eliminated by adding a fat or oil component to the composition, but in turn, it can be difficult to prepare a storage-stable product, and when preparing the product as a spray. In particular, acceptable sprayability is not achieved without the addition of organic solvents. The use of such solvents is ecologically undesirable and can also adversely affect the hair care properties of the composition.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION It has been found that the use of certain UV absorbing cationic substances in compositions prepared as certain microemulsions (so-called PIT emulsions) solves the above problem.

It is known to those skilled in the art that the introduction of an ionic component into a PIT emulsion typically increases the phase inversion temperature significantly. Thus, those skilled in the art will generally not prepare such products for material-specific or economic reasons. This is especially true for quaternary ammonium compounds known as conditioners, which often raise the phase inversion temperature by as much as 20-30 ° C. at normal usage, to temperatures above the 100 ° C. limit. Thus, the cationic group-containing UV absorbers used according to the invention have no effect on the phase inversion temperature or only slightly (i.e. typically well below 15 ° C.) increase the phase inversion temperature. That is very surprising.

[0007] That is, the present invention is a composition for caring for keratin fibers which is present as a microemulsion having an average droplet diameter of less than 400 nm, comprising at least 6% by weight of an oil component and at least one nonionic emulsifier. , Formula (I): UQ (I) wherein U is a UV absorbing group and Q is a group containing at least one quaternary ammonium functional group. ] It also concerns the composition containing also the UV absorption component A shown by these. Keratin fibers according to the invention are understood to be fur, wool, feathers and especially human hair.

[0008] The composition of the present invention contains an oil component as a first essential component. Both water-insoluble oils and fatty compounds and their mixtures with solid paraffins and waxes are in principle suitable as oil components. In the present invention, the water-insoluble substance is 20 ° C.
Is understood to be a substance having a solubility in water of less than 0.1% by weight. The melting point of each oil or fat component must be lower than the phase inversion temperature of the system, especially about 40 ° C.
Lower than. According to the invention, oil and fat components that are liquid at room temperature (ie, below 25 ° C.) may be particularly advantageous. However, if a plurality of oil and fat components and optionally solid paraffins and waxes are used, then typically the oil and fat components and optionally a mixture of paraffins and waxes should satisfy the above conditions.

[0009] A preferred group of oil components is vegetable oil. Examples are the liquid components of sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat malt oil, peach seed oil, and coconut oil. Other triglyceride oils, such as the liquid component of tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils, are also suitable.

[0010] Another class of compounds suitable for use as the oil component in accordance with the present invention is liquid paraffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers (12 to 3 carbon atoms total).
6, especially 12 to 24), for example di-n-octyl ether, di-n-
Decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-
n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-
n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether, and di-tert-butyl ether, diisopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, t-butyl-n-octyl ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether And 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether. 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane and di-n-octyl ether [available as commercial products Cetiol ™ S and Cetiol ™ OE, respectively]
May be advantageous.

[0011] Other oil components suitable for use in accordance with the present invention are esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols. Monoesters of fatty acids and alcohols having 3 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Substances in this group include fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid,
Myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid,
Eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadolinic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid, and industrial mixtures thereof (eg, pressure hydrolysis of natural fats and oils, reduction of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis, or unsaturated fatty acids) And alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol, capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol , Isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroserinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, eleosteararyl alcohol, aralkyl Alcohol, gadreyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassyl alcohol and industrial mixtures thereof (e.g., obtained by high pressure hydrogenation of industrial methyl esters from fats and oils, or aldehydes from the oxo synthesis of Roelen). And those obtained as monomer fractions in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols). According to the invention, isopropyl myristate, C _16-18 alkyl isononanoate [Cetiol ™ SN], 2-ethylhexyl stearate [Cetiol ™ 868], cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut oil Fatty alcohol caprate / caprylate, and n
-Butyl stearate is particularly preferred.

Other oil components suitable for use in accordance with the present invention are dicarboxylic esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) -adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) -succinate, And diisotridecyl acerate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di- (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol diperalgo. , Butanediol diisostearate, and neopentyl glycol dicaprylate. The total amount of oil and fat components in the composition according to the invention is generally from 6 to
45% by weight. According to the invention, amounts of 10 to 35% by weight are preferred.

The composition of the present invention contains a nonionic emulsifier as a second essential component. Examples of suitable nonionic emulsifiers are given below. Ethylene oxide 4 to 3 of a linear fatty alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, a fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and an alkylphenol having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
0 mol and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide adduct; ethylene oxide 1 of a polyol having 3 to 6 carbon atoms (particularly glycerol)
Of 30 mole adduct, C _12-22 fatty acid monoesters and diesters; - methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products; - C _8-22 alkyl monoglycosides and oligoglycosides and 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide of castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil; their ethoxylated analogues (oligomerization degree 1.1 to 5, especially 1.2 to 1.4, sugar component preferably glucose); An adduct; and a partial ester of a polyol having 3 to 6 carbon atoms and a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

The composition of the present invention preferably contains a nonionic emulsifier in an amount of from 4 to
It is contained in an amount of 15% by weight, more preferably 6 to 10% by weight. The composition of the present invention is described in Roempp-Lexikon Chemie (edited by J. Falbe, M. Regitz),
Edition 0, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart / New York (1997), No. 176
It preferably contains at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18 as defined on page 4. According to the invention, nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 can be particularly advantageous. Among the nonionic surfactants, an ethoxylated fatty alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms (4 to 30 EO) is preferable.

Another essential component of the composition of the present invention is a specific UV absorbing component A (hereinafter, also referred to as UV absorbing agent A). UV absorber A is represented by formula UQ. Component U means a UV absorbing group. This group can in principle be derived from known UV filters used in cosmetics, in which case one group (usually a hydrogen atom) of the UV filter is placed on a group Q having a quaternary amino function. Replace. The compounds which can lead to the constituent part U are exemplified below.

Substituted benzophenones, such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2 ′,
4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, 2-
Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, and 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenyl acrylates such as ethyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate, and 2'-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate, cinnamic esters, such as octyl methoxycinnamate, salicylates, such as octyl salicylate -Benzimidazoles, and-o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

According to the invention, component U is preferably derived from cinnamic acid amide or N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide. In principle, the absorption maximum of UV absorber A is UVA (315-400 nm) and UVB
The component U can be selected so that it can be in both the (280-315 nm) region or in the UVC (<280 nm) region. It is particularly preferred that the absorption maximum of UV absorber A lies in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to 300 nm. Further, it is preferred to select component U (again in accordance with component Q) such that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV absorber A at the absorption maximum exceeds 15,000, especially above 20,000.

Component Q must contain a quaternary ammonium group. In principle, this quaternary ammonium group may be directly bonded to component U, where component U comprises one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. But,
One of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom is a bonding group (particularly, an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms) interposed between the component U and the positively charged nitrogen atom. Is preferred.

[0019] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, Q is the formula ^{_{- (CH 2) x -N +}} R 1 R 2 R 3 X - is represented by the formula, x is an integer of 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² are each a C _1-4 alkyl group, R ³ is a C _1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group, and X ⁻ is a physiologically compatible anion. In the above formula, preferably, x is 3, R ¹ and R ² are both methyl groups, and R ³ is a methyl group or has 8 to 2 carbon atoms.
2 (especially 10 to 18) saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched hydrocarbon chains.

Examples of physiologically compatible anions are inorganic anions such as halides (especially chloride, bromide and fluoride), sulfate and phosphate ions, and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate. And tosylate.

Two particularly preferred UV absorbers A are amidopropyltrimethylammonium cinnamate chloride and dodecyldimethylaminobenzamidopropyldimethylammonium tosylate, which are commercially available products [each,
Incroquat ™ UV-283 and Escalol ™ HP610]. UV absorber A is present in the composition according to the invention usually in an amount of from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total composition.

Another essential component of the composition of the present invention is water. The composition according to the invention must be in the form of a microemulsion having an average droplet diameter of less than 400 nm, especially less than 200 nm.

In the context of the present invention, a microemulsion is understood to be a so-called “PIT” emulsion. Such an emulsion is a system containing in principle three components: water, oil and a nonionic emulsifier and existing at room temperature as an oil-in-water (o / w) emulsion. Heating such a system produces a microemulsion within a temperature range (commonly referred to as phase inversion temperature or "PIT"), which still changes to a water-in-oil (w / o) emulsion when heated. I do. Thereafter, when cooled, the o / w emulsion is reformed, but the microemulsion state having an average droplet diameter of less than 400 nm (particularly, about 100 to 300 nm) is maintained even at room temperature. Usually "PIT
Details of such very stable low viscosity systems, known as "emulsions", have been described in many references, see for example Angew. Chem., 97 , 655
-669 (1985), and Adv. Colloid Interface Sci., 58 , 119-149 (1995). According to the present invention, a microemulsion or P having an average droplet diameter of about 200 nm
IT emulsions may be advantageous.

In order to prepare the microemulsion of the present invention, for example, first, a sample of an emulsion prepared in a conventional manner is heated, and the temperature at which the conductivity sharply decreases is measured using a conductivity meter. To measure the phase inversion temperature of the system. The reduction in the specific conductivity of the original o / w emulsion typically occurs over a temperature range of 2-8 ° C., from values above the original 1 mS / cm to values less than 0.1 mS / cm. This temperature range corresponds to the phase change temperature range. After examining the phase inversion temperature in this manner, an emulsion consisting of the oil component, the nonionic emulsifier, at least a portion of water, and any other components is prepared in a conventional manner, and the temperature within the phase inversion temperature range or the temperature within the range. Heat to above temperature, then cool,
Optionally, other ingredients and the balance water can be added. Microemulsions can also be prepared directly at temperatures in the phase inversion range or above. Thereafter, the prepared microemulsion is cooled to a temperature below the phase inversion temperature range (typically room temperature).

The compositions of the present invention may contain, besides the essential components, other components depending on the intended application. The effect of such components on the phase inversion temperature can greatly affect the usability of the compound. In one preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention contains at least one other hair care component in addition to the oil component (which often also exhibits a hair care effect). Such additional hair care ingredients are usually selected from nonionic compounds. However, this does not in principle preclude the use of ionic hair care compounds, especially in small amounts. However, if such an ionic compound is used, its effect on the phase inversion temperature should be investigated. The ionic components used are usually limited to those whose influence on the phase inversion temperature does not make the preparation process more difficult.

Active substances having a hair care action are known to those skilled in the art. Examples include: -A fatty alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols used can be saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched. Examples of fatty alcohols suitable for use in accordance with the present invention are decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, ersyl alcohol, ricinolyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isoaryl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and their Guerbet alcohols, but these are only examples, It does not limit the invention. Fatty alcohols are preferably derived from natural fatty acids and are usually produced by the reduction of fatty acid esters. Fatty alcohol fractions obtained by reduction of fatty acid esters formed from natural triglycerides (eg, beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, and linseed oil) or their transesterification products with alcohols (ie, various Mixtures of fatty alcohols) are also suitable for use in the present invention. Fatty alcohols are preferably used in an amount of from 0.3 to 3% by weight, based on the total formulation.

Hydrolysis of animal and preferably vegetable protein hydrolysates, such as elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein, silk protein, oat protein, pea protein, almond protein and wheat protein, among others Products, condensates of them with fatty acids, and quaternized protein hydrolysates.

Vitamin and vitamin precursors such as tocopherol, vitamin A, nicotinic acid and nicotinamide, other vitamin B complexes, vitamin F, and especially biotin. Other preferred examples of this group of hair care substances are panthenol, its derivatives, especially panthenol esters and ethers, and cationic derivatives of panthenol. Examples thereof are panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. Panthenol is preferred in this group. Mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, mannose, fructose and lactose.

A plant extract customarily prepared by extracting whole plants, and in some cases only flowers and / or leaves. For suitable plant extracts for use in accordance with the present invention, see Leitfaden zur Inhaltsstoffdeklaration kosmetischer Mitt
el [Industrieverband Koerperpflege- und Waschmittel e.V. (IKW
), Frankfurt], 3rd ed., Page 44 et seq. According to the invention, particularly preferred are oak bark, nettle, hamamelis, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsewillow, hawthorn, lime flower, almond, aloe vera, pine needles, maronier, sandalwood, juniper, among others.
Coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange,
It is an extract of grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, rape, mushroom, yarrow, thyme, mulberry, harishmoku, coltsfoot, hibiscus, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. Extracts of almonds, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi and melon are particularly preferred. The composition of the present invention comprises:
It may contain a mixture of multiple (especially two) different plant extracts. For the preparation of the plant extract, water, alcohol and mixtures thereof may be used as extractants. As alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropyl alcohol, and especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol are particularly preferred, and can be used alone or in admixture with water. Water / propylene glycol (ratio 1:10 to 10: 1)
) Have been found to be particularly suitable. According to the present invention, the plant extract may be used as it is or may be used after being diluted. When diluted, it typically contains about 2-80% by weight of the active substance and (as a solvent) the extractant or extractant mixture used in its preparation.

Are obtained in a manner similar to plant extracts and have an active substance content of typically 1 to 10% by weight, in particular 3
Honey extract which is ~ 5% by weight. Again, the preferred extractant is a water / propylene glycol mixture. -Ceramide. Phospholipids such as soy lecithin, egg lecithin and kephalin.

Silicone oils, especially dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and their alkoxylated and quaternized analogues. Examples of such silicone oils are commercially available DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 and DC 344 and D
C345 (Dow Corning), Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; stabilized trimethylsilyl amodimethicone), Dow Corning ™ 929 Em
ulsion (containing a hydroxylamino modified silicone also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker), and Abil ™ -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer) : Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxane, Quaterniu
m-80).

Alkylamidoamines, usually obtained by amidating natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid fractions with dialkylaminoamines. Examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic,
Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachinic acid, gadolinic acid,
Behenic acid, erucic acid, and industrial mixtures thereof (obtained, for example, in the pressure hydrolysis of natural fats and oils, in the reduction of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis, or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids). As a rule, fatty acid fractions obtained from coconut oil or palm oil are particularly preferred, and the use of stearic acid is particularly preferred. According to the invention, a particularly suitable compound of this group is stearamidopropyldimethylamine, which is commercially available as Tegoamid® S18.

Ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamine, and quaternization of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamine Ester salts. Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, especially ammonium halides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, dialkyldimethylammonium chloride and trialkylmethylammonium chloride (eg cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, Distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, and tricetylmethylammonium chloride), behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, and imidazolium compounds (INCI name Quaterniu)
m-27 and what is known as Quaternium-83).

• Cationic polymers, especially polymers having quaternary nitrogen atoms, for example as ammonium groups. Preferred cationic polymers are exemplified below: Celquat (TM) and Polymer Quaternized cellulose derivatives commercially available under the names JR (TM) [among others, Celquat (TM) H100, Celquat (TM) L200 and Polymer. JR ™ 400]; a polymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salt, and its copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid, Merquat ™ 100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ™ 550 Commercially available under the name (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer); copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoacrylates and methacrylates, such as vinyl quaternized with diethyl sulfate. Loridone / dimethylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymer [eg, commercially available Gafquat ™ 734
Gafquat ™ 755]; vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazolinium metochloride copolymer, commercially available under the name Luviquat ™; quaternized polyvinyl alcohol; and Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, P
Polymers having quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer backbone, known under the names olyquaternium 18 and polylyquaternium 27.

For other compounds, see literature known to those skilled in the art, for example, K. Schrader, Grundla
See gen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika, 2nd edition, Huethig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989. Further hair care ingredients are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, in terms of active substance of the hair care ingredient, relative to the total composition.
It is present in an amount of 5% by weight.

In another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also contains other UV filters in addition to UV absorber A. Further UV filters can be selected from the customary UV filters suitable for use in cosmetics. According to the invention, oil-soluble UV filters and substances which exhibit an absorption maximum in the UVB range may be advantageous. For further commonly used UV filters, see the preceding description. Preferred further UV filters are 2-ethylhexyl-3,3'-diphenyl-2-cyanoacrylate (OCTOCRYLENE), 2-.ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (
OCTYL METHOXYCINNAMATE), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (BE
NZOPHENONE-3), isoamyl-4-methoxycinnamate (ISOAMYL P-METHOXYC)
INNAMATE) and 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PHENYLBE)
NZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID). Further UV filters are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 7% by weight, more preferably 0.2% by weight, based on the total composition.
It is present in an amount of ５5% by weight.

The compositions of the present invention are, in one embodiment, prepared as a hair rinse or conditioner. Hair rinses are typically prepared so that after the required contact time, the active substance is rinsed off with water, or at least a water-based formulation. The contact time with the hair is usually short. Hair conditioners contain a higher concentration of active substance combinations than hair rinses and are intended for use in the care of severely damaged hair. The contact time may be short, for example comparable to a hair rinse, but may be as long as 20 minutes depending on the extent of hair damage. The hair conditioner of the present invention may be rinsed after the contact time with water, or at least a water-based formulation. However, it may remain on the hair. Such compositions may be advantageously prepared as foam aerosols, especially sprays. In that case, the composition contains a propellant gas. However, this embodiment is preferably prepared as an air-propellant pump spray.

In other embodiments, the compositions of the invention include, for example, cleaning compositions (eg, shampoos), hair setting compositions (eg, lacquers, sprays and gels), permanent formulations (eg, permanent waves and fixed setting agents) ), Discoloration preparations (eg, depigmentation preparations, oxidation dyes, and tints containing direct dyes), hair lotions,
And a hair tip solution. The viscosity of the formulation can be adjusted for the intended use. The present invention further encompasses products containing the composition of the present invention and another formulation (eg, containing an oxidative dye precursor or oxidizing agent) as a separately packaged formulation. Such separate package preparations are mixed immediately before application to the hair or combined on the hair.

The other common components of the compositions of the present invention, especially in the case of ionic compounds, can be: Zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers such as vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymer, polydimethylsiloxane, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymer, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymer, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride Copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polycrosslinked polyacrylic acid, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymer, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / t-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypromethacrylate Rukoporima, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers,

Anionic surfactants such as, for example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids (having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule), And monoalkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates (having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group) and monoalkyl polyoxyethyl sulfosuccinate (having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 hydroxyethyl groups) ),

Zwitterionic surfactants, especially so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-
N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate (e.g., coconut oil alkyldimethylammonium glycinate), N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate (e.g., coconut oil acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate), and 2-alkyl -3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group,
And coconut oil acylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate,

An amphoteric surfactant such as N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid,
N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkylsarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid
(Alkyl groups having about 8 to 18 carbon atoms),

Foam suppressants, such as silicones; thickeners, such as agar, guar gum, alginate, xanthan gum, gelatin, pectin, hydroxyethylcellulose, and polyacrylamide and its copolymers; structurants, such as maleic acid; Dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrin; solubilizers, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, and diethylene glycol; a dye for coloring the composition;

Antidandruff agents such as Piloctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climba
zol, other substances for adjusting the pH value, active substances, such as allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and bisabolol,
Other UV filters, Consistency-imparting agents, such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, Fats and waxes, such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax, and paraffin, Swelling and penetrating agents, such as glycerol, propylene Glycol monoethyl ether, carbonate, hydrogen carbonate, guanidines, ureas, and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Emulsifiers, such as latex, styrene / PVP, and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; Pearlescent agents, such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate, and PEG-3-distearate; Complexing agents, such as EDTA, NTA , Β-alanine diacetate and phosphonic acids, direct dyes, so-called first and second intermediates as oxidation dye precursors, reducing agents such as thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thioapple Acids and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid; oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate; propellants such as propane / butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , N ₂ and air・ Antioxidants.

Although the compositions of the present invention may in principle have a pH of 2 to 11, those skilled in the art should take into account the known instability of the components (eg that panthenol is unstable in alkaline media). I do. The pH of the composition according to the invention is preferably from 2 to 7, particularly preferably from 3 to 6. The pH adjustment may be made with virtually any cosmetically suitable acid. As a rule, edible acids are used. Edible acids are acids that are taken in as part of the food that is normally consumed and have a positive effect on the living body. Examples of edible acids are acetic acid, lactic acid,
Tartaric acid is citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid, and gluconic acid. According to the invention, citric acid and lactic acid are particularly preferred.

The present invention relates to keratin fibers, comprising applying a composition according to any of claims 1 to 11 to the keratin fibers and rinsing them after a contact time of about 1 second to about 30 minutes. It also concerns how to care for human hair.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention. Application Examples In the following examples, amounts are given as parts by weight unless otherwise specified.

[0049]

[Table 1]

¹ C _16-18 alkyl isononanoate (INCI name: Cetearyl Isononanoate)
(HENKEL) ² Glycerol monostearate + 24 EO (INCI name: PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearat
e) ³ Glyceryl monostearate (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate) (HENKEL) ⁴ Trimethylcinnamic acid amidopropyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Cinnamidop)
ropyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride) (CRODA) ⁵ 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI name: Benzophenone-3) (HAARM
ANN & REIMER) Preparation: Two mixtures containing components (a) and (b) were heated to 85 ° C. Then 2
The seed mixture was mixed at 85 ° C. and cooled with continued stirring.

[0051]

[Table 2]

⁶ Fatty acid mono / diglyceride (hydride) derived from palm oil (INCI name: Hydrogenat
ed Palm Glycerides) (HENKEL) ⁷ Cetyl stearyl alcohol + 12 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-12) (HENKEL) ⁸ 1,3-bis- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (INCI name: Dioctylcyclohexan)
e) (HENKEL) ⁹ Di-n-octyl ether (INCI name: Dicaprylyl Ether) (HENKEL) ¹⁰ Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (INCI name: Cyclomethicone) (DOW COR
NING) ¹¹ Dodecyldimethylaminobenzamidopropyldimethylammonium tosylate (ISP) Production method: same as in Example 1

[0053]

[Table 3]

A mixture of ^12- part glyceride, fatty alcohol, fatty alcohol ethoxylate and wax ester (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (a
nd) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate) (HENKEL) ¹³ Cetyl stearyl alcohol + 20 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (HENKEL) ¹⁴ Caprylic / capric acid C _12-18 fatty alcohol ester (INCI name: Coco-Cap
(rylate / Caprate) (HENKEL) ¹⁵ Wheat protein hydrolyzate (water, 40% active substance; INCI name: Aqua (and) Hydr
olyzed Wheat Protein (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Me
thylparaben (and) Propylparaben) (HENKEL) Production method: same as in Example 1

[0055]

[Table 4] ¹⁶ Silk protein hydrolyzate (in water, about 7% active substance; INCI name: Aqua (and) Hydro
lyzed Silk) (INTERORGANA) Production method: same as in Example 1

[0056]

[Table 5] Production method: same as in Example 1

[0057]

[Table 6] ¹⁷ D-α-tocopherol (active substance 85%; INCI name: Tocopherol) (HENKEL CORP.) Production method: same as in Example 1

[0058]

[Table 7] ¹⁷ D-α-tocopherol (active substance 85%; INCI name: Tocopherol) (HENKEL CORP.) Production method: same as in Example 1

[0059]

[Table 8]

[0060] ¹⁸ fatty acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) (HENKEL)
¹⁹ 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenzimidazo
le Sulfonic Acid) (HAARMANN & REIMER) ²⁰ D, L-α-Bisabolol (85% active substance; INCI name: Bisabolol) (HENKEL) ²¹ Polyacrylic acid (INCI name: Carbomer) (BF GOODRICH) Production method: Example 1 the same as

[0061]

[Table 9]

²² 2-octyldodecyl alcohol (INCI name: OCTYLDODECANOL) (HENKEL) ²³ Stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI name: Octyl Stearate) (HENK
EL) ²⁴ 2-Ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (INCI name: Octyl Methoxycinnam
ate) (HAARMANN & REIMER) Production method: same as in Example 1

[0063]

[Table 10] ²⁵ 3-Methylbutyl-3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -2-propenoate (INCI name: Isoa
myl-p-methoxycinnamate) (HAARMANN & REIMER) Production method: same as in Example 1

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuing on the front page (72) Inventor Elisabeth Poppe, Federal Republic of Germany-22299 Hamburg, Baumbecker Strasse 171 F-term (reference) 4C083 AA121 AB032 AB052 AC032 AC092 AC122 AC172 AC342 AC352 AC392 AC422 AC472 AC642 AC691 AC692 AD092 AD172 AD412 AD532 AD662 BB04 BB11 BB46 CC05 CC19 CC31 CC33 DD08 DD23 DD31 DD35 EE17 EE28 EE29

Claims (12)

[Claims] A keratin fiber care composition present as a microemulsion having an average droplet diameter of less than 400 nm, comprising at least 6% by weight of an oil component and at least one nonionic emulsifier, comprising a composition of the formula (I) ): UQ (I) wherein U is a UV absorbing group and Q is a group containing at least one quaternary ammonium functional group. ] The composition which also contains the UV absorption component A shown by these. Group Q according to claim 2 of formula (I) in the formula ^{_{:-( CH 2) x -N + R}} 1 R 2 R 3 X - [ wherein, x is an integer of 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² is a C _1-4 alkyl group, R ³ is a C _1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group, and X ⁻ is a physiologically compatible anion group. The composition according to claim 1, which has a structure represented by the following formula: 3. The composition according to claim 2, wherein at least two of the groups R ¹ , R ² and R ³ are methyl groups. 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the group U is selected such that compound A has an absorption maximum in the UVB range. 5. The compound A has a molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum of at least 15
The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is 000. 6. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least one plant-derived oil component. 7. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising a nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. 8. The composition according to claim 1, which contains at least one ethoxylated fatty alcohol as a nonionic emulsifier. 9. The composition according to claim 1, which further comprises at least one further hair care component.
The composition according to any one of the above. 10. The composition according to claim 1, which further comprises a UV filter. 11. The composition according to claim 1, which is prepared as a spray. 12. The method according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises applying to the keratin fibers and rinsing off after a contact time of about 1 second to about 30 minutes.
How to care for keratin fibers (especially human hair).