JP2000345445A - Fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a fabric of high quality that can utilize the merit of silk with improved production stability by mixing conjugated fibers comprising a sulfonic acid (or sulfonate salt) group-bearing polyester copolymer and a polyethylene terephthalate polymer with silk yarns and weaving the mixed yarns in fabrics. SOLUTION: A polyester copolymer bearing 1.5-12 mol.% of SO3M group [M is H, an alkali or an alkaline earth metal] and a polyethylene terephthalate polymer are used at a ratio of 10/90-80/20 to form a polyester conjugated fiber in which both components cited above run through in the fiber axis direction and the copolymer is exposed on the fiber surface, and which has the single filament fineness of 1.5-8d, preferably 2-6d. This polyester conjugated fiber is arranged in parallel with 5-95 wt.%, preferably 20-65 wt.% of silk yarns and then subjected to the air interlacing treatment to prepare a mixed yarn. The mixed yarn is used as warp and weft to produce the objective woven fabric, for example, Habutae glossy silk-like fabric.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a high-quality, new-look fabric utilizing the characteristics of silk composed of silk and polyester fibers.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, silk and ordinary polyester fiber (polyethylene terephthalate) have been widely used as clothing since ancient times, taking advantage of their respective characteristics. However, although various knitted and woven fabrics of silk and ordinary polyester fiber have been proposed in the past, they have not been able to solve the deterioration of physical properties such as color fastness and strength, and have not yet developed a full-scale product. The main reason is that the proper dyeing temperature of silk and ordinary polyester is greatly different, so that if the polyester dyeing temperature is adjusted to the proper dyeing temperature, the physical properties of the silk will be greatly reduced. Does not stain. In addition, the disperse dye which must be used for dyeing polyester usually greatly contaminates silk, and the dyeing fastness is remarkably reduced.

[0003] Therefore, we tried a combination of a polyester of dyeable type with normal pressure disperse dye (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-154081) and a polyester of dyeable type with normal atmospheric cationic dye and silk. Since it is possible to perform normal pressure dyeing, a reduction in the physical properties of silk has been suppressed, and a fabric that takes advantage of the characteristics of silk has been obtained. There was much disperse dye contamination, and it was not possible to suppress a decrease in color fastness, and the product was insufficient. In addition, in the latter case, in combination with the polyester of the normal pressure cationic dye dyeable type, a decrease in the physical properties of the normal pressure cationic dye dyeable polyester fiber itself was observed. In particular, a large reduction in strength due to repeated restaining performed during normal production for color matching was a major problem in production.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the background of such conventional fabrics, and has as its object to provide a fabric which is excellent in production stability and quality and makes use of the characteristics of silk.

[0005]

The present invention employs the following means in order to solve the above-mentioned problems. That is, the fabric of the present invention has a —SO ₃ M group (M is a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an alkaline earth metal).
A cloth comprising a polyester-based composite fiber comprising 5 to 12 mol% and a polyester-based composite fiber comprising polyethylene terephthalate and silk, wherein the content ratio of silk to the cloth is 5 to 95% by weight. It is.

[0006]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The present invention has been made to thoroughly study the above-mentioned problem, that is, a cloth made of polyester and silk, which is excellent in physical properties, dyeing fastness, and production stability, making use of the characteristic properties of silk. When the conjugate fiber was viewed as a constituent fiber of the fabric, it was surprisingly found that the problem was solved at once.

The polyester composite fiber used in the present invention has a sulfonic acid group represented by the chemical formula of —SO ₃ M.
It can be produced from a polyester copolymer containing 5 to 12 mol% and polyethylene terephthalate. The sulfonic acid group-containing polyester copolymer is obtained by polymerizing 5-sodium isophthalic acid, hexamethylenediamine, and isophthalic acid.

[0008] The polyester-based composite fiber of the present invention is obtained by combining and spinning polyethylene terephthalate and a sulfonic acid group-containing polyester copolymer into a fibrous form as described above. The two-component polymers are individually arranged in the fiber axis direction to constitute one single fiber. The composite form of the composite fiber is a splittable composite fiber, and is typically a sea-island type or a round-cut tangerine type. Further, a form in which the sulfonic acid group-containing polymer is exposed on the fiber surface of the conjugate fiber is a particularly preferred form. This is because when the sulfonic acid group-containing polymer is covered with polyethylene terephthalate, it becomes difficult to dye with a cationic dye. The content ratio (weight) of the sulfonic acid group-containing polymer and the polyethylene terephthalate in the polyester-based composite fiber is preferably from 10:90 to 80:20, and more preferably from 20:80 to 60:40. 1
When the ratio is less than 0:90, the required amount of sulfonic acid groups cannot be obtained, and it is difficult to obtain a deep color by dyeing with a cationic dye.
If the ratio exceeds the above range, there is a problem in maintaining the physical properties of the fiber itself and in the spinning property.

The sulfonic acid group content is 1.5 to 1
Although it is in the range of 2 mol%, if it is less than 1.5 mol%, the dyeing of the cationic dye is not sufficient and there is a problem in correspondence to dark colors. On the other hand, if it exceeds 12 mol%, the physical properties of the fiber itself and the yarn-forming properties tend to be reduced. The preferred sulfonic acid group content is 2.5 to 9 mol%.

The single fiber fineness of the composite fiber is 1.5 to 8
Denier, preferably 2 to 6 denier. The cross-sectional shape of such a conjugate fiber is not particularly limited, but a round or polygonal cross-section is more preferable for maintaining physical properties and for spinning.

In the present invention, the polyester-based composite fiber and silk are combined, and a preferable mixing ratio of the silk is 5 to 95% by weight, preferably 20 to 65% by weight based on the weight of the fabric. If it is less than 5% by weight, the characteristics of silk cannot be fully utilized,
If it exceeds 5% by weight, characteristics such as anti-wrinkle property of the polyester cannot be sufficiently utilized.

The blend of silk and the polyester-based composite fiber is
Various means such as simultaneous alignment and air entangling using compressed air can be preferably employed.

In the woven fabric, a conventional woven fabric technique may be appropriately used according to the purpose by alternately using one of the polyester-based composite fiber mixed with the silk and the vertical or horizontal weft woven fabric or polyester-based composite fiber. Can be used.

In the dyeing step, a normal step such as leaving silk sericin by silk kneading or removing silk sericin can be used, so that it can be used as appropriate according to the final target texture. For dyeing, silk is preferably dyed with a conventional acid dye, and polyester-based composite fibers are preferably dyed with a cationic dye in a water bath at 80 ° C. or higher. The dyeing is preferably carried out under normal pressure up to 100 ° C. for maintaining the physical properties of the silk. The polyester-based composite fiber can be dyed using a disperse dye or a disperse and cationic dye. However, when a disperse dye is used, it is necessary to set the amount to be used in a range where the fastness can be maintained since there is a concern that the fastness of the dyeing is reduced. When a disperse dye is used, the dyeing temperature is 1
A temperature of 00 ° C. or lower is preferable for maintaining the physical properties of the silk. The kneading and drying of the dyed product and the dry heat setting temperature are preferably low from the viewpoint of maintaining the texture, but it is preferable to set the temperature to 130 ° C. or lower from the viewpoint of production efficiency.

[0015]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described below more specifically with reference to examples. The measured values in the examples and comparative examples were obtained by the following methods.

Washing fastness: JIS-L0844 Hand: Sensory evaluation Tear strength: JIS-L1096D method (Pendulum method) Burst strength: JIS-L1096A method (Mullen type method) Example 1 75 denier, 36 filament polyester The sea-island composite fiber, the sulfonic acid group-containing polyester polymer as the sea component has a sulfonic acid group content of 8%, and polyethylene terephthalate as the island component has eight islands. The ratio of the sulfonic acid group-containing polymer to the polyethylene terephthalate is 20: 80.

As the weft yarn, three silks of 21 were drawn and twisted with respect to one yarn same as the warp yarn, and weaving was performed. The mixing ratio of silk is 29% by weight as a fabric.

The silk mixed feathers are scoured with an aqueous solution containing 5 g / l of soda ash, 5 g / l of Marcel soap and 0.5 g / l of hydrosulfite at 80 ° C. for 60 minutes, dried at 120 ° C., and dried in width. Heat set.

Thereafter, a blue acid dye (CI NO. Ac)
id Blue 229) 0.8% owf. And a blue cationic dye (CI NO. Basic Blue 12)
9) 2% owf. A 2 g / l mixed dye solution (dye bath) with a precipitation inhibitor (Nikka San Salt LS manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) was adjusted to pH 4 ± 0.3 with acetic acid and sodium acetate,
Stained at 98 ° C for 45 minutes. Thereafter, after washing with hot water, an anionic surfactant (Raccol PSH, manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd.) was added.
After washing in an aqueous solution containing 5 g / l at 60 ° C. for 20 minutes, washing with hot water and drying at 110 ° C., an aqueous solution containing a guanidine hydrochloride antistatic agent is applied, and drying at 120 ° C. is performed. Set was given.

The washing fastness of the haha double dyed in blue,
The strength and texture were evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 1. Example 2 Using the weft of Example 1, a 32-gauge smooth knit was knitted. The silk kneading ratio of the smooth knit was 44%. The silk-blended smooth snit was scoured with an aqueous solution containing 5 g / l of soda ash, 5 g / l of marcel soap, and 0.5 g / l of hydrosulfite at 80 ° C. for 60 minutes, dried at 120 ° C., and set to dry and heat-wide. .

Thereafter, a blue acid dye (CI NO. Ac)
id Blue 229) 1.5% owf. And a red cationic dye (CI NO. Basic Blue 12)
9) 1.5% owf. And sedimentation inhibitor (Nichika Chemical
Nikkasan Salt LS) 2 g / l mixed dye solution (dye bath)
Was adjusted to 4 ± 0.3 with acetic acid and sodium acetate, and stained at 98 ° C. for 45 minutes. Then, after washing with hot water, anionic surfactant (Rakor PSH manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd.)
After washing in an aqueous solution containing 0.5 g / l at 60 ° C. for 20 minutes, washing with hot water and drying at 110 ° C., applying an aqueous solution containing a guanidine hydrochloride-based antistatic agent, drying at 120 ° C. and aligning the width at the same time. A dry heat set was applied.

Washing fastness of strong dyed double, strong,
The texture was evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 1. Example 3 The same havable greige machine as in Example 1 was scoured in the same manner as in Example 1, and a blue disperse dye (CI) was used instead of the blue cationic dye.
NO. Disperse Blue 56) 3% ow
f. And dyed at 98 ° C. for 45 minutes. Then, after washing with hot water, disperse dye soaping agent Badizol O6 ((Yes)
After washing with a 4 g / l aqueous solution at 70 ° C. for 20 minutes, further washing with hot water and water was carried out, followed by drying at 120 ° C. and at the same time drying and heat setting. The wash fastness, strength, and texture of the dyed feathers were evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 1. Comparative Example 1 Raw yarn of polyethylene terephthalate having 75 denier and 36 filaments was used as the warp yarn.

The weft yarn is 21 per one yarn same as the warp yarn.
Three pieces of silk in the inside were drawn and plied, and weaving was performed. The mixing ratio of silk is 29% by weight as a fabric.

The silk mixed feathers were scoured with an aqueous solution containing 5 g / l of soda ash and 0.5 g / l of hydrosulfite at 80 ° C. for 60 minutes, dried at 120 ° C., and subjected to a dry heat setting.

Thereafter, a blue acid dye (CI NO. Ac)
id Blue 229) 0.8% owf. And blue disperse dye (CI NO. Disperse Blue 5)
6) 2% owf. For 45 minutes at 130 ° C.
Then, after washing with hot water, 70 g of 4 g / l aqueous solution of dispersing dye soaping agent Vadizol O6 (manufactured by Nikko Giken) was used.
After washing at 20 ° C. for 20 minutes, further washing with hot water and water was carried out, followed by drying at 120 ° C., and at the same time, drying and heat setting. The wash fastness, strength, and texture of the dyed feathers were evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 1. Comparative Example 2 The same as Comparative Example 1 except that the dyeing temperature was changed to 130 ° C.

Washing fastness, strong,
The texture was evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 1.

[0027]

[Table 1]

As is apparent from Table 1, those of Examples 1 to 3 are all different from those of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 in all of washing fastness, fabric strength (tear or burst strength), and texture. You can see that it is excellent.

[0029]

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a high-quality woven fabric utilizing the characteristics of silk, which has a small decrease in dyeing fastness, which is a conventional problem.

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A group -SO ₃ M (M is a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an alkaline earth metal) polyester composite fiber and silk the of polyester copolymer and polyethylene terephthalate containing 1.5 to 12 mol% Wherein the content of silk with respect to the fabric is 5 to 95% by weight.
A cloth characterized by the following. Wherein said polyester conjugate fiber, -SO ₃ M
The polyester copolymer containing 1.5 to 8 mol% of a group and the content ratio of polyethylene terephthalate are 10:90 to
The fabric of claim 1 wherein the ratio is 80:20. 3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the polyester-based conjugate fiber is -SO ₃ M
The fabric according to claim 1, wherein both the polyester copolymer containing 1.5 to 8 mol% of the group and the polyethylene terephthalate are completely penetrated in the fiber axis direction. 4. The polyester-based composite fiber, wherein -S
O ₃ fabric of claim 1, wherein the polyester copolymer of the M group containing 1.5-8 mol% and wherein the exposed surface of the fiber.