IT202000023776A1 - PROCEDURE FOR PROTOTYPING AND RAPID DESIGN OF FOOTWEAR - Google Patents

Description

Description of the patent for an Invention having the title:

?PROCEDURE FOR PROTOTYPING AND DESIGN

QUICK OF FOOTWEAR?

Invention sector

The present invention relates to a process for the rapid prototyping and design of footwear.

In particular, the invention deals with the technical problem of the relationship between the requests of the clients' style offices and the activity? of prototyping and design of the shoe which must best respond to these requests. State of art

AND? It is known that at present the procedure generally followed for the creation of a footwear prototype and its subsequent production envisages the receipt by the style office of the client brand of a preliminary project which can be provided through a drawing, a photo, a collage or a shoe already? on the market, with any desired modifications.

Upon receipt of this preliminary project, the shoe factory in charge of prototyping, in collaboration with a last, creates the physical shape following the indications of the brand?s style/technical office, or of the internal modeling department of the shoe factory.

In this phase, the pattern maker attaches special adhesive paper to the shape and draws the pattern requested by the brand?s style office.

Then peel off the paper and scan the ?shirt? obtained by flat development of the adhesive paper drawn and detached from the shape, then inserting the same shirt in an appropriate two-dimensional design system, for example a 2D Cad system to obtain the pieces of the model.

Based on the model, the prototype of the shoe is cut and hemmed, the upper of the prototype is mounted on the last and the new sole is built. The finished prototype is then delivered to the customer/brand who analyzes it, corrects it in the lines of the model and the sole and asks the shoe factory for another prototype, created following the same phases described above with the required corrections.

The new prototype will come then still analyzed by the customer/Brand and, if in turn modified, sar? required an additional prototype.

Typically, especially for innovative projects, 3-4 prototypes may be required to arrive at the shoe to be sent to production with work times of several days for each prototype (6-8 for the first and 2-6 for the subsequent ones).

In summary, the footwear design systems in a virtual way already? known to the state of the art mainly favor two scenarios:

The first includes solutions to meet the needs of the end user and allow him to choose the shoe from a set of predetermined options: shoe model, colours, surface finish, small accessories, etc.

These systems are designed for B2C-business to customer sales models (mainly online purchase), with finality? of marketing, in? intent cio? to provide the user with the desired product. Currently they are systems used for mass production and mid-range footwear (sports shoes, not for limited production or luxury range), they aim to respond to the customization needs of the final product and the effects on production processes are a natural consequence of this approach , more than to be a real goal; impact on the company?s business model, changing it.

The second includes solutions for virtual design, intended for designers with the integration of traditional software dedicated to the professional design of footwear, the integration of Reality Virtual and Augmented as technologies for ease? visualization and verification of the concept/product in real time by the designers themselves. These systems have as their primary objective to improve and make more? efficient shoe design process.

However, the available known examples still show applications in the context of mass production and for mid-range footwear, in which the level of detail in rendering and visualization (virtual or augmented reality) is ? clearly inferior to the levels of quality? required and necessary for the iterative design between the shoe factory and the stylist in the field of luxury footwear, effectively excluding its effective and appropriate use for the needs of high-level customers and stylists.

In this context, the known prototyping methods therefore involve considerable manufacturing times and costs, due to the difficulty by the shoe factory to better interpret the design of the customer/Brand style office and the high probability that the designer doesn't ?see? materialized in the prototype? his idea of footwear.

In other words, currently the prototype project born from the conception of the style office of the client/Brand that will be? chosen at the end of the process ? the result of a long process for the shoe factory and for the entire supply chain which requires many tests of physical prototypes made for internal use before obtaining the first physical prototype valid enough even just to be sent to the Brand's style office, to then pass the subsequent changes and corrections.

Such difficulties? are then increased by the fact that the operational headquarters of the customer/Brand will be able? also be very far from the shoe factory headquarters with the result that the shipment of each prototype takes several days both for the outward journey and for the return journey with lengthening of the necessary times and related shipment costs. Alternatively, digital modeling methods are known in which the shoe factory, after acquiring the last file from the last, draws the model in 3D, then inserting the design into the two-dimensional design system to obtain the pieces of the model.

These well-known systems have the advantage of allowing the digitization of samples and collections allowing, for example, to reduce the need for? to produce samples and variants and to allow virtual prototyping by reducing the need? having to create the physical samples of the prototype.

As an example, from US2015366293 ? known is a three-dimensional modeling process for the design of footwear and footwear uppers in which, using an interface, a user can generate and edit footwear design.

However, both the traditional procedure based exclusively on the creation and correction of physical prototypes and the methods based on the creation of digital models have considerable limitations linked alternatively to the industriousness of the procedure of verification and correction of the prototype, or to the difficulty? to create digital prototypes that are actually faithful to the stylistic idea behind the prototyping.

The result ? that in the first case the prototyping procedure ? more solid from the point of view of correspondence to the initial idea, but excessively long and onerous, in the second case, is the procedure? potentially rapid and easily adaptable, but not ? capable of producing prototypes faithful enough to the initial stylistic idea.

AND? therefore having felt the need for a digital footwear prototyping and design process, capable of overcoming the drawbacks of known systems and of allowing a reduction in time and a simplification of the steps necessary to define a high quality footwear prototype, faithful to the project of the stylist and at the same time obtain a shoe project that adheres entirely to the prototype.

Purpose of the invention

Purpose of the invention? therefore that of overcoming the drawbacks of known types of processes and proposing a shoe prototyping and design process which allows obtaining a prototype faithful to the project received from the stylist, easily modifiable and ready, once approved, to be used as a project of the shoe to be put into production.

Summary of the invention

For these purposes, according to the invention, a method for digital prototyping is proposed with the characteristics set forth in the attached main claim, comprising a first design phase of a first virtual stylistic prototype which is submitted for approval by the style office.

In a preferred embodiment, the method also provides for the executive digital design of the footwear in a second design phase of an executive prototype developed starting from the approved stylistic prototype.

A first advantage of the invention consists in the fact that the prototype is obtained quickly and is faithful both to the initial sketch of the shoe provided by the stylist and to the design of the shoe intended for production. A second advantage consists in the fact that the procedure for correcting the prototypes at the request of the stylist is simplified.

A further advantage consists in the drastic reduction, if not elimination, of physical prototypes to be submitted for approval by the style office.

An even further advantage consists in the high level of detail of the rendering and in the possibility? to view the prototype in the textures (for example in the case of leathers selected at the start of the collection).

An even further advantage consists in the possibility? to reduce the necessary work time and the use of personnel and dedicated space, in the reduction of consumption of materials and energy required and therefore greater sustainability? ecological.

List of drawings

These and further advantages will be better understood by a person skilled in the art from the following description and the annexed drawings in which:

- figure 1 shows a block diagram of a preferred embodiment of the method;

- figure 2 schematically shows the execution of the photogrammetry step of a shoe;

- figure 3 schematically shows the execution of the retopology step of a shoe with the reduction of the density? of the surface mesh of the 3D image of a shoe;

- figure 4 schematically shows the execution of the phase of reality? increased to a footwear prototype obtained according to the invention;

- Figure 5 schematically shows the execution of successive H-N steps of overlapping and subsequent adaptation of a 3D last of a shoe with a 3D image of a shoe in the course of prototyping.

Detailed description

With reference to the attached diagram, a process according to the invention for the digital stylistic prototyping and executive digital stylistic design of footwear is described.

The method comprises a first phase of designing a stylistic prototype and a second phase of designing an executive prototype starting from said stylistic prototype, preliminary to the execution of a physical prototype and from the industrial production of the prototyped shoe.

In the illustrated diagram, the stylistic planning phase starts from the receipt from a style office of a ?Brand? of a preliminary sketch of a shoe having a desired conformation and surface effect.

In various practical cases, the sketch, drawing or photograph can be received directly also in digital format, or in the form of a real object.

Will it be done later? as regards drawings and/or photographs to scanning, digitization and subsequent saving in the archive.

As regards the sketch in real object we proceed with the photogrammetry (fig.2) and the subsequent filing.

By way of example, the archive could? contain 3D images in a working format suitable for processing, for example .obj and similar, but also digital files of various formats, for example .DXF, .CAL, .SHZ, .HTML, .JPEG or others, which can be processed to obtain the 3D image to be processed and archived in turn with its own coding.

Preferably, the processing of files in formats other than the working format can be performed using commercially available applications, for example: Romans Cad, Shoemaster, Icad 3D+, Caligula, Meshroom.

Once the initial 3D image has been extracted from the archive, it is subjected to retopology to obtain an optimized 3D digital image. In particular, the retopology of the 3D image consists in a reconstruction of the mesh of the starting 3D image, which could have a high number of polygons, to get a new 3D model more? lighter and more ?fluid? for the application of textures and animation, obtained for example by redesigning a 3D model with a significantly smaller number of polygons on top of the starting 3D model (fig.3).

With this solution, ? It is possible to quickly obtain a rendering without the use of shapes in STL format and also allows the presentation and use of rendering in Reality? Augmented, as schematized in figure 4.

Subsequently, the retopologized 3D digital image is rendered with the application of the surface texturing of the preliminary sketch and the obtaining of a 3D image of a stylistic 3D prototype, or a prototype dedicated to a preliminary evaluation of an aesthetic type by the style office.

In a preferred embodiment, the stylistic 3D prototype is made available in the form of a 3D image in reality? increased.

Advantageously, in case of use of a prototype in reality? increased the customer can? evaluate her stylistic project in combination, for example, with the dress worn by a model or mannequin (Total-look) and with the opportunity to simultaneously evaluate all the variants of the textures selected at the beginning of the collection (materials, leathers and colours) as well as being able to remotely share the AR images in real time with other members of the stylistic staff, with customers and others.

Furthermore, the rendering of the stylistic prototype can be performed in high resolution using commercially available applications such as: Keyshot, Adobe Dimension, Blender, Maxwell, Aero.

The virtual stylistic prototype is then sent to the style office for acceptance or corrections to be made to the initial 3D image.

In different application examples, the corrections to the initial 3D image may include corrections of the shape of the shoe, of the sole, of the style lines or of the surface texturing.

In case of disapproval, ? the repeated execution of the phases of correction, retopology, rendering of the stylistic 3D prototype and sending for approval to the style office until acceptance by the style office is foreseen.

Once the stylistic 3D prototype has been approved, the starting 3D image, if modified, is archived in the basic digital archive and the design phase of the executive prototype begins.

Advantageously, the procedure can envisage a subsequent phase of executive digital prototyping in which, on the basis of a descriptive sheet received from the customer including for example a surface texturing of the shoe and information elements of the prototype such as leather and colour, sole and colour, type of yarn, eyelets, laces, etc. ? and on the basis of the approved 3D stylistic prototype, a 3D image of a suitable last of footwear is extracted from the basic digital archive of lasts and footwear.

Alternatively, the 3D shape can be specially created.

The extracted or created shoe last and the approved stylistic 3D prototype are then subjected to 3D modeling.

In more detail, in an example of implementation of this phase, the 3D image of the approved virtual stylistic prototype is exported in OBJ-STL format.

This digital image represents the volume of the shoe and ? imported into a SW, of a type known in the sector, dedicated to the creation and/or modification of shapes and ? used as a volume reference.

From the basic digital archive, a shape file is then selected in a compatible digital format, i.e. that can be processed contextually using SW.

Subsequently, by comparing the 3D image of the prototype of the shoe and the image of the last extracted from the archive (for example by superimposing the images in semi-transparent mode), the effect of ?fitting? the form in the shoe, being able cos? appreciate the differences in the internal volume and correct the profiles and volumes for the creation of the new shape that will be? used for subsequent 3D modeling.

In figure 5 ? schematically shown the execution of successive H-N steps of overlapping and subsequent adaptation of a last of shoe in 3D with the 3D image of the shoe being prototyped.

The 3D image obtained in the modeling phase is then rendered, preferably with PBR technology, with the application of the surface texturing of the preliminary sketch, obtaining an executive 3D prototype to be exported and sent to the style office for subsequent approval.

Preferably, in this phase the 3D modeling and rendering operations can be performed using commercial applications such as: RomansCad, Shoemaster, Icad3D+, Rhino.

In preferred embodiments of the process, the executive 3D prototype is exported, contextually or alternatively, in the form of a 3D print, an animated 3D model or a 3D model actually? increased.

As in the stylistic planning phase, ? possible receipt by the style office of requests for corrections of the executive 3D prototype and their subsequent correction, with the reiterated execution of the phases of modeling, rendering, export of the executive 3D prototype, until acceptance of the executive 3D prototype by the style office.

Once the executive 3D prototype has been approved, it is processed on its own. for the production of a physical prototype, for example by exporting a 3D file in .stl format of the last of the shoe, 2D files of two-dimensional components of the shoe, for example in .dxf or .cmz format, and 3D files of footwear accessories, for example in .obj format.

The executive 3D prototype, once the physical prototype has been approved, is finally archived as an approved project for the physical production of the shoe.

The invention achieves important advantages both for the customer ?Brand? client, and for those who carry out the stylistic design, the executive design and all the other companies in the supply chain that produce components.

In all these phases, yes ? in fact found that the process of the invention allows a greater speed? of realization and shareability, as well as a high fidelity? to the initial stylistic project and quality? of the work obtained, pursuing at the same time an improved economy? and sustainability overall.

The present found ? been described according to preferred embodiments but it is understood that equivalent variants can be conceived without however departing from the scope of the granted protection.

Claims (10)

1. Process for digital prototyping, including a design phase of a stylistic prototype, in which the stylistic design phase includes the following phases receiving a preliminary sketch, in digital format, of a shoe having a desired conformation and surface effect, extraction from a basic digital archive of a starting 3D digital image of the shoe, selected for aesthetic similarity with the conformation and surface effect of said preliminary sketch, possible modification of the starting 3D digital image, based on said preliminary sketch, retopology of the initial 3D digital image and obtaining a retopologized 3D digital image, rendering of the initial retopologized 3D digital image, with application of the surface texturing of the preliminary sketch and obtaining a 3D image of a stylistic prototype of the shoe, sending the 3D stylistic prototype to the style office for acceptance or corrections, possible receipt from the style office of a request for corrections of the stylistic 3D prototype and application of the requested corrections to said initial 3D image, repeated execution of said phases of retopology, rendering, and sending until acceptance of the first 3D prototype. 2. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that it provides a design phase of an executive prototype starting from said stylistic 3D prototype comprising the following phases, receipt from the style office of a descriptive file of the desired shoe, including at least a surface texturing of the shoe, creation of a 3D digital image, or selection from said archive of an existing 3D digital image, of a last of shoe in digital format compatible with elaboration in comparison with the 3D image of the stylistic prototype, processing of the 3D digital image extracted or created in comparison with the 3D image of the approved stylistic prototype and obtaining a 3D digital image of the last of the shoe consistent with the approved 3D stylistic prototype, 3D modeling of a shoe starting from said 3D image of the elaborated last of the shoe and of the description file and obtaining an executive 3D model of the shoe, rendering of the executive 3D model of the shoe, with application of the surface texturing of the preliminary sketch and obtaining an executive 3D prototype, export of the executive 3D prototype, sending the executive 3D prototype to the style office for approval or corrections, eventual receipt from the style office of corrections of the executive 3D prototype and application of said corrections to said executive 3D model of the shoe, repeated execution of these phases of modeling, rendering, export of the executive 3D prototype, until acceptance of the executive 3D prototype by the style office, provision of the executive 3D prototype approved for the production of the shoe. 3. Process according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said preliminary sketch in digital format ? obtained by two-dimensional scanning of a shoe image or by photogrammetry of a physical shoe model. 4. Process according to one of the preceding claims wherein said stylistic 3D prototype ? in one or more shapes selected from a 3D print, an animated render and a 3D model actually? increased. 5. Process according to one of the preceding claims, wherein said executive 3D prototype ? exported in one or more shapes selected from a 3D print, an animated render and a 3D model actually? increased. 6. Process according to one of the preceding claims, wherein said corrections to said extracted or modified 3D image of the shoe comprise corrections of the shape of the shoe, or of the style lines or of the bottom or of the surface texturing. 7. Process according to one of the preceding claims 2-6, wherein said rendering of the executive 3D model of the shoe ? performed in mode? PBR extension 8. Process according to one of claims 2-7, wherein said provision of the approved executive 3D prototype comprises exporting a 3D file for example in .stl format of the last of the shoe, 2D files of two-dimensional components of the shoe at example in .dxf or .cmz format, and 3D files of footwear accessories, for example in .obj format. 9. Process according to claim 8, comprising a production step of a physical prototype starting from said executive 3D prototype. 10. Process according to claim 9, comprising a step of sending said physical prototype to the style office for approval.