GB2592722A - Anhydrous agent for treating keratin fibres - Google Patents

Anhydrous agent for treating keratin fibres Download PDF

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Publication number
GB2592722A
GB2592722A GB2020068.9A GB202020068A GB2592722A GB 2592722 A GB2592722 A GB 2592722A GB 202020068 A GB202020068 A GB 202020068A GB 2592722 A GB2592722 A GB 2592722A
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alcohol
anhydrous agent
anhydrous
agent according
agent
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GB2592722B (en
GB202020068D0 (en
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Schulze Zur Wiesche Erik
Krohn René
Kerl Sylvia
Von Aspern Edith
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31Anhydrous

Abstract

An anhydrous agent for the care of keratinous material. The agent comprises: C8-C30 alkane, preferably isododecane; at least one branched or linear C10-C22 fatty alcohol, preferably myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof; at least one C2-C8 branched or linear, monohydric or dihydric alcohol, preferably ethanol; and at least one emulsifier. The emulsifier may be: a cationic surfactant with a C8-C30 chain, preferably cetrimonium chloride or a tertiary amine such as stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, or brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine; a fatty alcohol alkoxylate with a degree of alkoxylation of 2-120 and a fatty acid chain C4-C30; or one or more alkyl sulphates with a chain length C8-C30. Also disclosed is the use of the agent for smoothing, cleaning, or caring for a keratinous material. Also disclosed is a method of using the agent wherein the agent is mixed with a hydrating agent, stirred and/or shaken, applied to keratin fibres, before optionally rinsing the product from the fibres.

Description

ANHYDROUS AGENT FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBRES
[0001] The present invention concerns an anhydrous agent, which can be used as a cosmetic composition for treating keratinous material, the anhydrous agent being in concentrated form. The present invention also concerns the use of the concentrate for treating and/or caring for hair, in particular, human hair.
BACKGROUND
[0002] Products for caring for human hair have been known for a long time and are offered on the market mainly in liquid or pasty form in suitable packaging End users remove the required quantity of product from the packaging and dispose of it after emptying. Standard commercial hair cosmetic products often contain at least about 70% by weight water and require a commensurate size of packaging. Products having a relatively high concentration of active substances have the advantage of lower packaging costs, lower preservative demand and less expensive storage. However, there are also highly concentrated and even anhydrous products which are attended by numerous disadvantages.
[0003] An object of this invention is to provide a hair composition in concentrated form which serves as the basis for a product which can be used for effective hair treatment, in particular, hair conditioning.
BRIEF SUMMARY
[0004] The above object(s) is achieved in a first aspect of the invention, by an anhydrous agent for the care of keratinous fibres, comprising: a) at least one branched or linear C8-C30 alkane; b) at least one branched or linear C10-C22 fatty alcohol; c) at least one C2-C8 alcohol selected from branched or linear monohydric or dihydric C2-C8 alcohols; and d) at least one emulsifier.
[0005] The anhydrous agent of the first aspect easily forms an emulsion by mixing it with water and adding light amounts of energy (for example, stirring or shaking). This emulsion is ideal for the care of human hair. The particular combination of ingredients surprisingly improves combability of the hair, increases its shine and positively influences hair feel.
[0006] As used herein, the term "anhydrous" is to be preferably understood as meaning that water is present in an amount less than about 5%, more preferably less than about 3%, most preferably less than about 2%, based on the total weight of the anhydrous agent.
[0007] It will be understood that the anhydrous nature of the composition gives rise to a concentrated product. The consumer adds water to the composition to form an emulsion for application to the hair. Thus, the present invention provides a method of using the anhydrous agent as defined herein, comprising mixing the anhydrous agent, and stirring and/or shaking the mixture. The present invention also provides a method of treating keratin fibres, comprising mixing the anhydrous agent as defined herein with water, stirring and/or shaking the mixture, applying the resulting product to keratin fibres, and optionally rinsing the product from the keratin fibres. The present invention also provides the use of an anhydrous agent as defined herein for smoothing a keratinous material, for the care of a keratinous material and/or for the care and cleaning of a keratinous material.
[0008] Preferably, there is no alkali metal hydroxide present in the anhydrous agent according to the present invention.
[0009] In the present application, keratin or keratinous fibres are preferably understood as human hair, human skin and human nails, in particular, fingernails and toenails. Keratinous fibres are particularly preferred to human hair, especially head and/or beard hair.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0010] The following detailed description is merely exemplary in nature and is not intended to limit the disclosure or the application and uses of the subject matter as described herein. Furthermore, there is no intention to be bound by any theory presented in the preceding background or the following detailed description.
[0011] Component a) in the anhydrous agent is a C8-C30 alkane, preferably a C10-C25 alkane and more preferably a C12-C20 alkane. The alkane may be branched or linear. Preferably, the alkane is branched, more preferably a branched C12-C20 alkane. Most preferably, the alkane comprises or consists of isododecane. Component a) may be a mixture of two or more C8-C30 alkanes, more preferably a mixture of two C8-C30 alkanes.
Alternatively, component a) consists of a single C8-C30 alkane. Most preferably, component a) is isododecane.
[0012] The alkane component a) is preferably present in the anhydrous agent in an amount of from about 5 to about 90% by weight, preferably from about 5 to about 70% by weight, more preferably from about 5 to about 50% by weight, even more preferably from about 5 to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous agent.
[0013] A designation Cx to Cy means that the hydrocarbon chain has x to v carbon atoms.
[0014] Component b) in the anhydrous agent is a branched or linear C10-C22 fatty alcohol.
Fatty alcohols are aliphatic, long-chain, monohydric primary alcohols having hydrocarbon residues, which have 10 to 22, preferably 12-20, more preferably 14-18 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon residues can be saturated or mono-or polyunsaturated. Fatty alcohols that can be used with preference in the context of the present invention are selected from 1-hexanol, 1-heptanol, 1-octanol, 1-decanol, 1-dodecanol (lauryl alcohol), 1-tetradecanol (myristyl alcohol), 1-hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), 1-heptadecanol (margaryl alcohol), 1-octadecanol (stearyl alcohol), 1-icosanol (arachidyl alcohol), 1-docosanol (behenyl alcohol), 1-tetracosanol (lignoceryl alcohol), 1-hexacosanol (ceryl alcohol), 1-octacosanol (montanyl alcohol), 1-triacontanol (melissyl alcohol), cis-9-hexadecen-1-01 (palmitoleyl alcohol), cis-9-octadecen-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), trans-9-octadecen-1 -ol (elaidyl alcohol), cis-11-octadecen-l-ol, 6,9,12-octadecatrien-1 -ol (7-linolenyl alcohol), and mixtures thereof [0015] Component b) may be a mixture of two or more C10-C22 fatty alcohols.
Alternatively, component a) consists of a single C 1 0-C22 fatty alcohol. Most preferably, component b) is a mixture of myristyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
[0016] The fatty alcohol component b) is preferably present in the anhydrous agent in an amount of from about 5 to about 40% by weight, preferably from about 10 to about 37% by weight, more preferably from about 15 to about 34% by weight, yet more preferably from about 20 to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous agent.
[0017] Component c) is a C2-C8 alcohol selected from branched or linear monohydric or dihydric C2-C8 alcohols. Component c) may be a mixture of two or more such C2-C8 alcohols, more preferably a mixture of two such C2-C8 alcohols. Alternatively, component c) consists of a single C2-C8 alcohol. Preferably, the or each C2-C8 alcohol is a C2-C6 alcohol, preferably a C2-C4 alcohol. More preferably C2-C8 alcohol component c) comprises or consists of ethanol.
[0018] The C2-C8 alcohol component c) may be present in the anhydrous agent in an amount of from about 5 to about 50% by weight, preferably from about 5 to about 40% by weight, more preferably from about 5 to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous agent.
[0019] As component d), the anhydrous agent comprises emulsifiers, so that its components can be homogenised and form a homogeneous phase in the manufacture of the ready-to-use cosmetic product.
[0020] The person skilled in the art understands that cosmetic products often contain at least one surfactant selected from cationic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and/or nonionic surfactants. Suitably, the emulsifier present in the anhydrous agent defined herein is selected from one or more of: i) one or more cationic surfactants; one or more fatty alcohol alkoxylates, with a degree of alkoxylation of 2-120, preferably 4-80, more preferably 6-60, yet more preferably 8-40, wherein the fatty alkyl chain length is C4-C30, preferably C6-C25, more preferably C8-C22; and iii) one or more alkyl sulfates with a chain length of C8-C30, preferably C10-C25, more preferably C12-C22.
[0021] Preferably, the anhydrous agent of the present invention is used as a hair conditioner or hair treatment, so the anhydrous agent preferably comprises at least one cationic surfactant and optionally at least one anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactant Thus, the anhydrous agent may preferably comprise: i) one or more cationic surfactants; and optionally ii) one or more fatty alcohol alkoxylates, with a degree of alkoxylation of 2-120, preferably 4-80, more preferably 6-60, yet more preferably 8-40, wherein the fatty alkyl chain length is C4-C30, preferably C6-C25, more preferably C8-C22; and/or iii) one or more alkyl sulfates with a chain length of C8-C30, preferably C 10-C25, more preferably C12-C22.
[0022] Cationic surfactants carry a positive charge in their hydrophilic part. This positive charge causes the surfactant molecules to attach themselves to the negatively charged skin and hair surface. In this way they neutralize the charge, prevent hair from flying, have a smoothing effect, increase hair shine and improve wet combability. Primarily they are used in conditioners, hair conditioners and cures, rarely in shampoos. In addition, cationic surfactants have a co-conservative effect in cosmetic products due to their bactericidal effect, i.e. their bacterial inhibitory effect.
[0023] In principle, all cationic surfactants suitable for use on the human body are suitable as cationic surfactants in compositions according to the invention. These are characterized by at least one water-solubilizing cationic group, such as for example a quaternary ammonium group, or by at least one water-solubilizing cationizable group, such as for example an amine group and furthermore at least one lipophilic alkyl group having about 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or also by at least one imidazole group or at least one imidazylalkyl group.
[0024] In general, cationic surfactants are divided into groups according to their structural characteristics. Cationic surfactants i) from at least one of the groups alkylquats, esterquats, quaternary imidazolines, amidoamines and/or cationized amidoamines are particularly suitable for use in the anhydrous agent defined herein [0025] The invention further concerns a solid hair cosmetic composition as previously described comprising as a cationic surfactant i) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of the following: alkylquats, esterquats, quaternary imidazoline, amidoamines and/or cationized amidoamines and mixtures thereof [0026] Cationic surfactant component i) may comprise at least one compound selected from one or more of the following groups: quaternary ammonium compounds (alkylquats) having at least one C8-C24-alkyl radical, quaternary imidazolines, esterquats, amidoamines each having at least one C8-C24-acyl radical, and mixtures thereof [0027] Particularly preferred quaternary ammonium compounds with at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical are ammonium halides, especially chlorides, and ammonium alkyl sulphates, such as methosulphates or ethosulphates, such as C8-C24 alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, C8-C24 di alkyl di m ethyl ammonium chlorides and C 8-C 24 tri al kyl m ethyl ammonium chlorides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyl dimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names quaternium-27, quaternium-83, quaternium-87 and quaternium91. The alkyl chains of the surfactants mentioned above preferably have 8 to 24 carbon atoms. Preferably, the cationic surfactant component i) comprises or consists of Cetrimonium chloride.
[0028] When present, the quaternary im dazoline may have the following formula: Rig
X
wherein RI6 represents a Cl-Co alkyl group 1117, Rig independently of one another represent a C7-C27-alkyl group preferably a CIO-C22-alkyl group, and X" is a physiologically tolerable anion. Suitable such compounds include Quaternium-87 (available from Evonik as Varisoft W 575 PG) [0029] Esterquats are cationic surfactants which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as structural element and furthermore at least one CS-C24 alkyl radical or C8-C24 acyl radical. The esterquat may have the following formula: X ° 11 / 0 0 R21 R20 0 R22 wherein R19 and R20 independently of one another represent a C1-C6-alkyl group or a C2-C6-hy droxyalkyl group, R21, R72 independently of one another represent a C7-C27-alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22-alkyl group, and X is a physiologically tolerable anion, [0030] Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines Such products are marketed under the trademarks Stepantex®, Dehyquart® and Armocaret. N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, distearoylethyl dimonium methosulphates and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulphates are preferred examples of such esterquats.
[0031] Alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic C8-C24 fatty acids with di-(C1-C3)alkylaminoamines.
[0032] Suitable amines may have the following formula: NR23R24R25 wherein R23, R24 independently of one another represent a Cl-C6 alkyl group, a C2-C6 alkenyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group, and R25 represents a C8-C28-alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22-alkyl group.
[0033] The cationic surfactants of the formula NR73R24R25 are amine derivatives, so-called pseudoquats. The organic residues R23, R74 and R25 are directly bound to the nitrogen atom. In the acid pH range these are cationized, i.e the nitrogen atom is then protonated. The physiologically compatible counterions are suitable as counterions. Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine and Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine are particularly preferred as these cationic surfactants.
[0034] Component i) may preferably comprise or consist of a mixture of one or more alkylquats and one more amidoamines, for example a mixture of Cetrimonium Chloride and Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine.
[0035] When present, the fatty alcohol alkoxylate i) may be selected from fatty alcohol ethoxylates and fatty alcohol propoxylates, or mixtures thereof [0036] Preferred fatty alcohol ethoxylates are those in which the fatty alcohol portion of the fatty alcohol ethoxylate has an alkyl chain length of C4-C30, preferably C6-C25, preferably C8-C20, and/or in which the number of ethoxy groups in the fatty alcohol ethoxylate is from 2 to 120, preferably from 4 to 100, more preferably from 6 to 80, more preferably from 8 to 60, most preferably from 10 to 40 [0037] Preferably, the or each fatty alcohol ethoxylate is selected from ethoxylates of Beheneth, Ceteareth, Ceteth, Pareth, and Deceth, preferably of Ceteareth, more preferably Ceteareth-20. Preferably, the fatty alcohol propoxylate is PPG-3 Capwly1 Ether.
[0038] A mixture of the following cationic surfactants has shown a particularly pleasant conditioning effect in the inventive compositions: Ceteareth-20, PPG-3 Caprylyl Ether, Cetrimonium Chloride and Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Anhydrous agents including these surfactants have shown improved combability of the hair, increased shine and the hair feel is positively influenced.
[0039] When present, the fatty alcohol sulphate may have a chain length of C8-C22, preferably C] 0-C20, more preferably C] 2-C18.
[0040] The following ingredients are optionally included in the anhydrous agent in addition to the components described above.
[0041] It is advantageous to add at least one oil to the agents as defined herein. Especially exemplary is the use of liquid oils. As contemplated herein, a liquid oil is to be understood to mean a flowable substance at room temperature (about 25° C and about 1013 mbar) which is miscible under normal conditions with bi -di stilled water to less than about 1% by weight.
[0042] The anhydrous agent defined herein may contain as oil at least one ester of a C8-C20 fatty acid and a C] -C20 alcohol. The ester may be selected from esters which are formed from at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid having from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms, which may optionally contain one or more hydroxyl groups, and at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohol having from about 1 to about 20 carbon atoms. Suitable esters are selected from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, hexyldecyl laurate, hexyldecyl stearate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isononyl stearate, isotridecylnonanoate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate and/or mixtures of these esters. In particular, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl stearate are well distributed on the keratin materials. In an exemplary embodiment, an anhydrous agent as defined herein further contains one or more oils, for example selected from the group including of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, 2-ethyl hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl myri state, 2-ethyl hexyl pal mitate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, hexyldecyl laurate, hexyldecyl stearate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isononyl stearate, i sotri decyl n on anoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate and isocetyl stearate, for example selected from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl stearate. For example, ethylhexyl stearate may be provided by the raw material Saboquat HRC, which includes Cetemyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Cetrimonium Chloride and Ceteareth-20.
[0043] It is well known to include organosilicon compounds in cosmetics, in particular the silicones such as trisiloxanes which are characterized by nourishing properties. In one embodiment, the anhydrous agent disclosed herein includes one or more silicone compounds.
[0044] The silicone(s) may be selected from: polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes that are volatile or non-volatile, straight-chained, branched, or cyclic, cross-linked or uncrosslinked; polysiloxanes that include, in the general structure thereof, one or more organofunctional groups selected from: substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups, (per)fluorinated groups, thiol groups, carboxylate groups, hydroxylated groups, alkoxylated groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, amphoteric groups, bi sulfite groups, hydroxyacylamino groups, carboxy groups, sulfon c acid groups, and/or sulfate or thiosulfate groups; linear polysiloxane (A)-polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers of the type (A-B)n with n>3; graft silicone polymers haying an organic backbone that does not include silicone, which graft silicone polymers consist of an organic main chain that is formed of organic monomers that do not include any silicone, onto which main chain at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and possibly at least one chain end; graft silicone polymers having a polysiloxane backbone onto which organic monomers not including silicone have been grafted, which graft silicone polymers have a polysiloxane main chain, onto which at least one organic macromer including no silicone has been grafted in the chain and possibly at least one of the ends of the polysiloxane main chain; and/or mixtures thereof 100451 The anhydrous agents defined herein may contain, with respect to the weight of the agent, from about 0.01 to about 20 wt. %, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 7.5 wt. %, and particularly from about Ito about 5 wt. % of silicone(s).
100461 One or more of the following silicones of formula Si-I may be included in the anhydrous agent (CH3)1Si-[0-Si(CH1)2],-0-5i(CH3)3 (Si-I), in which x represents a number from 0 to about 100, preferably from 0 to about 50, more preferably from 0 to about 20, and particularly from 0 to about 10.
[0047] These silicones are called DIMETHICONE according to the INCT nomenclature In the context of the present invention, the following compounds are preferably used as a silicone of formula Si-I: (CH3)3Si-O-Si(CH3)3 (0-13)3Si-0-(CH3)2Si-O-Si(CH3)3, (CH3)3Si-[0-(C113)25i]2-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3 Si-[0 -(C113)2 S -0-Si(CH3)3, (C113)3 Si.10 -(CH3)2 Si.15 -0-Si.(CH3)3, (C+13)3 Si -[04CA-13)2Si [7-0-Si (C H03, (CH3)3 Si-[0 -(CH3)2 S i]9-0-Si(CH3)3, (CH3)3 Si -[0 -(CH3)2 S -0-S i(CH3)3, (CH3)3 Si -[0 -(CH3)2 S i]6-0 -S i(CH3)3, (0-13)3 Si -[0 -(C1-13)2 Si] 8-0-Si (CH+, (CH3)3 Si -[0 -(C113)2 S i] 0-0-Si (CHO 3.
(CH3)3Si[O-(CH3)2Sili i-O-Si(CH3)3. (013)3S110-(013)2S1113-0-Si(CH3)3. (CH3)3 S11(1)-(CH3)2S1115-0-S1(CH3)3. (C H3)3Si 40-(CH3)2Sil 17-0-Si (CH3)3.
(CH3)3S1-[(1)-(013)2S1]12-0-S1(013)-( (CH3)3S1-[(1)-(013)2S1]14-0-S1(043)3, (CH3)3 Si-[0-(CH3)2Si[16-0-Si(CH3)3, (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]ts-0-Si(CH3)3, (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si] 9-0-Si(CH3)3. (C1-13)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]20-0-Si(CH3)3, wherein (CH3)3Si-O-Si(CH3)3, (CH3)3Si-0-(CH3)2Si-O-Si(CH3)3, and/or (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]2-0-Si(CH3)3 is especially preferred.
[0048] Of course, mixtures of the aforementioned silicones can also be contained in the anhydrous agents according to the invention. Preferred silicones that can be used according to the invention have viscosities of from about 0.2 to about 2 mm's-' at 20°C, wherein silicones having viscosities of from about 0.5 to 1 mm2s-I are especially preferred.
[0049] One or more amino-functional silicones of the following formula AmSi-I may be included in the anhydrous agent: M(RaQbSi0(4-a-b)/2).(11cS10(4-0/2),,M (AmSi-I) wherein R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon residue having 1 to approximately 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar residue of the general formula -FUHZ, in which Fe is a divalent, linking group that is bonded to hydrogen and to the residue Z and composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen atoms, or carbon, hydrogen, and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic, amino-functional residue that contains at least one amino-functional group; "a" assumes values in the range of approximately 0 to approximately 2, "b" assumes values in the range of approximately 1 to approximately 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range of approximately Ito approximately 3, and x is a number in the range of Ito approximately 2,000, preferably approximately 3 to approximately 50, and most preferably approximately 3 to approximately 25, and y is a number in the range of approximately 20 to approximately 10,000, preferably approximately 1 25 to approximately 10,000, and most preferably approximately 150 to approximately 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group known in the prior art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-restricting examples of the residues represented by R include alkyl residues, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl, and the like; alkenyl residues, such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haIoallyl, aIkylally1; cycloaIkyl residues, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, and the like; phenyl residues, benzyl residues, halogenated hydrocarbon residues, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl,
II
chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl, and the like; and sulfur-containing residues, such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl, and the like. R is preferably an alkyl residue containing Ito approximately 6 carbon atoms. R is most preferably methyl. Examples of R1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, h exam ethyl ene, decamethylene, -CH2CH(CH3)C112-, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH2CH2SCH2CH 2-, -CH2CH2OCH2-, -OCH2CH2-, -OCH2CH2CH2-, -CH2CH(CH3)C(0)0CH2-, -(CH2)3 CC(0)0CH2CH2-, -C6H4C61-11-, -C6H4CH2C6H4-; and -(CH 2)3C(0)SCH2CH2-* [0050] Z is an organic, amino-functional residue containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH(CH2)zNH2, in which z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NII(CH7)7(CH7)77NH, in which both z and zz are, independently, 1 or more, wherein this structure comprises diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably an -NHCH2CH2NH2 residue. Another possible formula for Z is -N(CH2)z(CH2)zzNX2 or -NX2, in which each X of X2 is selected independently from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having Ito 12 carbon atoms and zz is O. [0051] Q is most preferably a polar, amino-functional residue of the formula -CH2CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NH2. In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of approximately 0 to approximately 2, "b" assumes values in the range of approximately 2 to approximately 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range of approximately Ito approximately 3. The molar ratio of the RaQbSi 0(4.a.t)/2 units to the ReSi 0(4-c)!2 units lies in the range of approximately 1: 2 to 1: 65, preferably approximately 1: 5 to approximately 1: 65, and most preferably approximately 1: 15 to approximately 1: 20. If one or more silicones of the formula above are used, the various variable sub stituents in the formula above can be different in the case of the various silicone components present in the silicone mixture. ;[0052] One or more of the following amino-functional silicones of formula (Si-II) may be included in the anhydrous agent: R',G3_,-Si(OSiG2).-(0SiGbR'2_ b).-0-SiG3-a-ka in which G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -0-CH3, -CH3, -0-CH2CH3, -CH2CH3, -0-CH2CH2CH3,- CH2CH2CH3, -0-CI(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)2, -0-CH2C1-I2CH2CH3, -CH20-12CH2CE13, -0-CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -0-CH(CH3)CH2CH3,-CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -0-C(CH3)3, -C(CH3)3; a represents a number between 0 and 3, particularly 0; b represents a number between 0 and 1, particularly 1; m and n are numbers having a sum (m + n) between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein n preferably assumes value of 0 to 1999, particularly 49 to 149, and m preferably assumes values of 1 to 2000, particularly I to 10, R' is a monovalent residue selected from -Q-N(R")-CH2-CH2-N(R")2 -Q-NIT(R")2A- -Q-N(R")-CH2-CH2-N-R"H2A-, wherein each Q represents a chemical bond, -CH2-, -CH2-CH2-, -CH2CH2CH2-, -C(CH3)2-, -CH2CH2CH2CH2-, -CH2C(CH3)2-, -CH(CH3)CH2CH2-, R" represents identical or different residues from the group comprising -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CIl2-CH(CH3)Ph, the C1-20 alkyl residues, preferably -CE13, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH2CH2H3, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -C(CH3)3, and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide, or methosulfate. ;[0053] One or more of the following amino-functional silicones of formula (S -Ha) may be included in the anhydrous agent. ;(CH3)3Si4O-Si(CH3)2140Si(CH3)]m-OSi(CH3)3 (Si-Ha), CH2CH(CH3)CH2NH(CH2)2NH2 in which m and n are numbers having a sum (m + n) between about 1 and about 2000, preferably between about 50 and about 150, wherein n preferably assumes value of from 0 to about 1999, particularly from about 49 to about 149, and m preferably assumes values of from about 1 to about 2000, particularly from about 1 to about 10. These silicones are called Trimethylsilylamodimethicone according to the 'NCI declaration. ;[0054] One or more of the following amino-functional silicones of formula (Si-lib) may be included in the anhydrous agent: I.3 R4Si(C113)2-01111Si(R)-01m-[Si(CH3)2]r12-R (C1-12)3NH(CH2)2N1-12 in which R represents -014, -0-CH3, or a -CH= group and m, nl, and n2 are numbers having a sum (m + n1 + n2) between about 1 and about 2000, preferably between about 50 and about 150, wherein the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values of from 0 to about 1999, particularly from about 49 to about 149, and m preferably assumes values of from about 1 to about 2000, particularly from about 1 to about 10 These silicones are called Amodimethicone according to the INCI declaration. ;[0055] Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, if any, agents according to the invention that contain an amino-functional silicone having an amine value above about 0.25 meq/g, preferably above about 0.3 meq/g, and particularly above about 0.4 meq/g are preferred. The amine value represents the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. The amine value can be determined by titration and can also be stated in the unit mg KOH/g. ;100561 When present, the amino-functional silicone(s) may be present in the anhydrous agent in amounts of from about 0.01 to about 20 wt%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10 wt%, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 7.5 wt%, and particularly from about Ito about 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous agent [0057] The anhydrous agents defined herein may contain amino-functional silicone(s) having one or more terminal hydroxy groups, such as silicones of formula (Si-III) below, CH3 B1 Si CH3 0-Si CH3 AZ o Si (CH2)3 NH (CHO, Nbi.2 CH3 0 Si 113 CH3 (Si-III), in which m and n mean numbers that are selected in such a way that the sum (n + m) lies in the range of from about Ito about 1000, n is a number in the range of from 0 to about 999 and m is a number in the range of from about Ito about 1000, R1, R2, and R3, which are identical or different, mean a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, wherein at least one of the groups RI to R3 means a hydroxy group. ;Other anhydrous agents defined herein may contain at least one silicone of formula (Si-IV) below, CH3 0 Si (CH2)3 ;NH NH2 -CH3 CH3 C H3 C Ha 0 'I ;Ft, Si (Si-IV), in which p and q mean numbers that are selected in such a way that the sum (p + q) lies in the range of from about I to about 1000, p is a number in the range of from 0 to about 999 and q is a number in the range of from about I to about 1000, R1 and R2, which are different, mean a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, wherein at least one of the groups R1 to R2 means a hydroxy group. ;100581 The silicones of formulas (Si-III) and (Si-TV) are distinguished by the grouping on the Si atom that bears the nitrogen-containing group: R2 means a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group in formula (Si-I11), while the residue in formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group. The individual Si groupings, which are marked with the indices m and n or p and q, do not have to exist as blocks, but rather the individual units can also be statistically distributed, i.e., each RISi(CH3)2 group does not necessarily have to be bonded to an -[0-Si(CH3)2] grouping in formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV). ;[0059] Other anhydrous agents defined herein may contain at least one silicone of formula (Si-V) below: CH CH3 CH3 I 3 Si 0 Si 0+D CH3 A-PSI 0 b CH3 ln[ (Si-V), in which A represents a group -OH, -0-Si(CH3)3, -0-Si(CH3)20H, -0-Si(CH3)20CH3, D represents a group -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)20H, -Si(CH3)20CH3, b, n, and c represent integers between 0 and 1000, with the stipulations that n>0 andb+c> 0 at least one of the conditions A = -OH and D = -H is met. ;[0060] In formula (Si-V) stated above, the individual siloxane units having the indices b, c, and n are statistically distributed, i.e., these silicones do not necessarily have to be block copolymers. ;[0061] Other suitable silicones are 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted. The anhydrous agents defined herein may contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of formula (Si-VI), HN/ ;CH A i 3 1 ;0 ja Si -0 10[ CH3 ;CH I 3 Si 0 b n[ ;CH I 3 ;Si 0±D CH3 c)) (S1-VI), in which A represents a structural unit (i) bonded by means of an -0, CH3 -Hi 04 CH3 an oligomeric or polymeric residue bonded by means of an -0 and containing structural units of formula (i), or -OH, * represents a bond to the structural unit (i) or an end group B (Si-bonded) or D (0-bonded), B represents a group -OH, -0-Si(CH3)3, -0-Si(CH3)20H, -0-Si(CH3)20CH3, D represents a group -Fl, -Si(C1-13)3, -Si(CH3)20H, -Si(CE13)20CH3, a, b, and c represent integers between 0 and about 1000, with the stipulation that a + b + c > 0, m, n, and o represent integers between about I and about 1000, with the stipulation that at least one of the conditions B = -OH and D = -H is met.
100621 Structural formula (Si-VI) should make clear that the siloxane groups n and o do not necessarily have to be bonded directly to an end grouping B or D. Rather, a> 0 or b > 0 in preferred formulas (Si-VI) and a> 0 and b > 0 in especially preferred formulas (Si-VI), i.e., the terminal grouping B or D is preferably bonded to a dimethylsiloxy grouping. Also in formula (Si-VT), the siloxane units a, b, c, n, and o are preferably statistically distributed.
[0063] The silicones represented by formula (Si-V1) can be trimethylsilyl-terminated (D or B = -Si(CH3)3). Said silicones can also be dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated at both ends or dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated and dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated at one end. Suitable silicones are selected from silicones in which B = -0-Si(CH3)20H and D = -Si(CH3)3 B = -0-Si(CH3)20H and D = -Si(CH3)20H B = -0-Si(CH3)20H and D = -Si(CH3)20CH3 B --0-Si(CH3)3 and D = -Si(CH3)20H B = -0-5i(CH3)20CH3 and D = -Si(CH3)20H [0064] Also in formula (Si-VI), the residue A can represent a structural unit (i) bonded by means of an -0, an oligomeric or polymeric residue bonded by means of an -0 and containing structural units of formula (i), or -OH [0065] Therefore, formula (Si-VI) is stated more precisely as one of formulas (Si-VIa), (Si-Vlb), and (Si-Vie): CH3 H3C-Si OiTID / CH 0] CH3 CH I [ 0 Si B-[-Ii 0 L[ i 0 0 Si CH3) I CH3 N 3 CH3 0 in[Si 0+D CH3
HN
NH2 (Si-VIa) CH, A CH CH].[ CH I 3 I 3 I 3 [Si 0]j SI-0] [ Si 0 Si 0 Si 0+D I a 1 o I b CH, L. /H3 0 CH, 0---) HN(--#
CH
i Is ii B_[ Si 0 ja [ Si 0 I
CH SØ)
0.._.? CH C H [ CH 1.[ I 3 I 3 I 3 NH2 Si 0 Si 0 Si 0-i-c D CH, CH, (Si-VIb) GH3 OH GH3 CH3 CH B+Si 0 L [ Si -O Si 0 Si 0 [ I 3 CH30) 0 b n Si 0±D CH CH3 (Si-Vic) [0066] Regardless of the type of the one or more utilized amino-functional silicones haying one or more terminal hydroxy groups, when present, the anhydrous agents defined herein may contain the one or more silicones in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of a microemulsion [0067] In another embodiment, the anhydrous agent defined herein is silicone-free. The disadvantages of these silicones are the reduced penetration of active ingredients and auxiliaries into the hair due to wetting of the hair surface and the hair styling being hampered by the wetting of the hair surface. Further, due to their persistence in the environment, it is preferable to dispense with the use of cyclomethicones. In the context of this silicone-free embodiment of the present invention: the anhydrous agent, in relation to its total weight, contains less than about 5.0 (1-0 by weight, preferably less than about 2.0 % by weight, preferably less than about 0.5 % by weight, and in particular no trisiloxane; or - the anhydrous agent, in relation to its total weight, contains less than about 5.0 % by weight, preferably less than about 2.0 % by weight, preferably less than about 0.5 °, O by weight, and in particular no dimethicone; or - the anhydrous agent, in relation to its total weight, contains less than about 5.0 % by weight, preferably less than about 2.0 % by weight, preferably less than about 0.5 % by weight, and in particular no amodimethicone; or - the anhydrous agent, in relation to its total weight, contains less than about 5.0 % by weight, preferably less than about 2.0 % by weight, preferably less than about 0.5 % by weight, and in particular no cyclomethicone; or - the anhydrous agent, in relation to its total weight, contains less than about 5.0 % by weight, preferably less than about 2.0 % by weight, preferably less than about 0.5 % by weight, and in particular no organosilicon compounds.
[0068] The anhydrous agent is preferably free from organosilicon compounds, in particular free from silicones, trisiloxanes, and silicone oils.
[0069] According to other embodiments, the anhydrous agent defined herein also contains a skin moisturizer or further care agent selected from the group consisting of glycerin, urea, hyaluronic acid, silanol esters of hyaluronic acid, panthenol, taurine, ceramides, phytosterols, aloe vera extracts, creatine, creatinine, sodium hyaluronate, polysaccharides, biosaccharides gum-1, cucumber extracts, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, methylpropanediol, ethylhexylglycerol, sorbitol, amino acids, wherein glycine, glycine, soya, histidine, tyrosine or tryptophan are particularly preferred amino acids, amino acid derivatives, natural betaine compounds, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid or a salt of pyn-olidonecarboxylic acid, lactic acid, lactates, in particular sodium lactate, and/or ethylhexyloxyglycerol. In particular, the selection of these skin moisturizers increases the caring character of the anhydrous agent.
100701 The anhydrous agent may contain one or more further emulsifier components, for example a nonionic surfactant, preferably comprising a nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of the following: - An alkylglucamide comprising a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched co to C22, preferably C10 to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group, - An alkyl fructoside comprising a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched co to C22, preferably C10 to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group, - An alkyl glucoside comprising a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched CO to C22, preferably C10 to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group, and - An alkyl alcohol alkoxylate of the formula R10(0R11).0H wherein R10 is a linear or branched C6 to C22, preferably C10 to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group, R11 is a 122 40 C4, preferably 122 alkyl group, and m is 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 6, more preferably 2 to 6.
100711 The anhydrous agent may contain one or more further emulsifier components, for example a nonionic surfactant, preferably comprising an anionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of the following: - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24, preferably 12 to 22, more preferably 16 to 18 C atoms, - straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono-or polyunsaturated alkylcarboxylic acids haying 8 to 24, preferably 12 to 22, more preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, - straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono-or polyunsaturated alkyl phosphates having 8 to 24, preferably 12 to 22, more preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, - Alkyl isethionate whose alkyl group is selected from a branched or unbranched co to C22, preferably CIO to C18, more preferably CU to C16 alkyl group, in particular sodium cocoyl isethionate, - Alkylglycoside carboxylic acids whose alkyl group is selected from a branched or unbranched Co to C22, preferably C10 to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group, - Alkyl sulfosuccinates whose two alkyl groups are selected from the same or different, branched or unbranched c7 to C12, preferably 124 to C10, more preferably Co to C8 alkyl groups, - Alkyltaurates whose alkyl group is selected from a branched or unbranched co to C22, preferably C10 to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group, - Alkyl sarcosinates whose alkyl group is selected from a branched or unbranched co to C22, preferably C10 to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group, - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24, preferably 12 to 22, more preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, wherein the counter ion of the anionic surfactant is an alkali or alkaline earth metal ion or a protonated triethanolamine or the ammonium ion.
[0072] The anhydrous agents defined herein may contain a surfactant mixture of anionic and amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactants, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (INCI: Sodium Laureth Sulphate) and sodium lauryl ether sulphate with 2 ethylene oxide units in particular.
[0073] Amphoteric surfactants, which are also referred to as zwitterionic surfactants, are surface-active compounds that carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -000-or -SO3-group in the molecule. Amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactants also include surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C8-C24 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S03H group and are capable of forming internal salts.
[0074] The anhydrous agents defined herein may contain at least one amphoteric surfactant as an additional component. Preferred are the amphoteric surfactants selected from the group consisting of - An alkyl betaine comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched Co to C22, preferably C10 to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group, - An alkylamphodiacetate or alkylamphodiacetate comprising a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched CO to C22, preferably CIO to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group, with an alkali or alkaline earth metal counter ion, and - An alkylamidopropyl betaine comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched co to C22, preferably CIO to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group.
[0075] The anhydrous agent defined herein may further comprise from about 0.001 to about 20% by weight of at least one quaternary compound. This applies in particular to an anhydrous agent used in the manufacture of an agent for conditioning hair.
[0076] The or each quaternary compound may be selected from at least one of the groups consisting of poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds) and/or; quatemi zed cellulose derivatives, in particular polyquaternium 10, pol yquaternium- 24, polyquatemium-27, polyquaternium-67, polyquatemium-72, and/or cationic alkyl polyglycosides and/or cationised honey and/or cationic guar derivatives and/or Chitosan and/or polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular polyquatemium-7, and/or Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoa1kyl acrylate and methacrylate, in particular polyquatemium-11, and/or Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers. in particular polyquaterni um -16 and/or quatemized polyvinyl alcohol and/or Polyquatemium-74, and mixtures thereof.
[0077] The anhydrous agent may further comprise a strengthening compound, preferably selected from the group consisting of waxes, synthetic polymers and mixtures thereof [0078] Cosmetic products may contain, in addition to or as an alternative to a synthetic polymer, at least one natural or synthetic wax having a melting point above 37 °C as a strengthening compound.
[0079] As natural or synthetic waxes can be solid paraffins or isoparaffins, plant waxes such as candelilla wax, camauba wax, esparto grass wax, Japan wax, cork wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, sunflower wax, fruit wax and animal waxes, such as bees waxes and other insect waxes, Mineral waxes such as ceresin and ozokerite or petrochemical waxes such as petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes made of polyethylene or polypropylene and polyethylene glycol waxes can also be used. It can be advantageous to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes. Chemically modified waxes, especially hard waxes such as montan ester waxes, sasol waxes and hydrogenated jojoba waxes, can also be used.
[0080] Also suitable are the triglyceri des of saturated and optionally hydroxyl ated C16-30 fatty acids, such as hydrogenated triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate.
[0081] The wax components may also be selected from the group consisting of esters of saturated, unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 22 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated, unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 22 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or the wax components as a whole are solid at room temperature. Silicone waxes, such as stearyl trimethylsilane/stearyl alcohol, may also be advantageous.
[0082] Natural, chemically modified and synthetic waxes can be used alone or in combination. However, this should not include aIkanes which are necessarily contained in the water-free carrier medium in accordance with the invention. Several waxes can also be used. Furthermore, a number of wax mixtures, possibly mixed with other additives, are also available on the market. The "Special wax 7686 OE" (a mixture of cetyl palmitate, beeswax, microcrystalline wax and polyethylene with a melting range of 73-75 °C; manufacturer: Kahl & Co), Polywax0 GP 200 (a mixture of stearyl alcohol and polyethylene glycol stearate with a melting point of 47-51 °C; manufacturer: Croda) and "Weichceresin® FL 400" (a vaseline / vaseline oil / wax mixture with a melting point of 50-54 °C; Manufacturer: Parafluid Mineralolgesellschaft) are examples of applicable mixtures.
[0083] The wax is preferably selected from carnauba wax (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Cera), beeswax (INCI: Beeswax), petrolatum (INCI), microcrystalline wax and especially mixtures thereof.
[0084] Preferred blends include the combination of carnauba wax (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Cera), petrolatum and microcrystalline wax or the combination of beeswax (INCI: Beeswax) and petrolatum.
[0085] The wax or wax components should be solid at 25 °C and should melt in the range of > 37°C.
[0086] The anhydrous agents defined herein may contain the strengthening compound, when present, in a total amount of from about 0.5 to about 50 wt.%, preferably from about Ito about 40 wt.%, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 30 wt.%, even more preferably from about 2 to about 25 wt.%, based on the total weight of the anhydrous agent.
[0087] Other suitable ingredients include non-ionic polymers, anionic polymers, (further) cationic polymers, protein hydrolysates, amino acids, oligopetides, vitamins, provitamins, vitamin precursors, betaines, bioquinones, purine (derivatives), plant extracts, UV light protection filters, structuring agents, thickeners, electrolytes, pH adjusting agents, swelling agents, dyes, anti-dandruff agents, complexing agents, °pacifiers, pearl escent agents, pigments, stabilizers, blowing agents, antioxidants, perfume oils and/or preservatives.
[0088] The anhydrous agent disclosed herein may comprise from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight of at least one bitter substance, preferably a compound known as Denatonium Benzoate INCI.
[0089] A bitter substance is particularly important in cosmetics, household products etc., which are made up in such a way that their shape, colour, haptics etc. appeal to small children or babies and encourage them to play, which could also lead to swallowing. A bitter substance prevents this. Denatonium Benzoate is an extremely strong bitter substance and is therefore particularly effective even at very low concentrations. Furthermore, it is not associated with any known adverse effects.
[0090] The pH regulator may be an a or f3 hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, or mixtures thereof, and/or bases such as alkanolamines and/or sodium hydroxide.
[0091] The present invention further provides the combination of the anhydrous defined herein together with a hydrating agent. Thus, this aspect of the invention relates to the end product, i.e. the product formed by the addition of a hydrating agent to the anhydrous agent. As previously described, the end product is preferably an emulsion. The hydrating agent may be water, including any form of botanical/floral water. The end user can choose to which agent is preferred to add to the anhydrous agent, which is a further benefit to the anhydrous agent defined herein: the end user can personalize the end product based on their own needs and wishes.
[0092] The invention may also be defined according to the following numbered statements.
An anhydrous agent for the care of keratinous material, comprising: a) at least one branched or linear C8-C30 alkane; b) at least one branched or linear C10-C22 fatty alcohol; c.) at least one C2-C8 alcohol selected from branched orl near monohydric or dihydric C2-C8 alcohols; and d) at least one emulsifier.
2. The anhydrous agent according to Statement 1, wherein the or each alkane is a C I 0-C25 alkane, preferably a C12-C20 alkane, more preferably alkane component a) comprises or consists of isododecane.
3. The anhydrous agent according to Statement I, wherein component a) comprises isododecane.
4. The anhydrous agent according to Statement 1, wherein component a) consists of isododecane.
5. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein the alkane component a) is present in an amount of from about 5 to about 90% by weight, preferably from about 5 to about 70% by weight, more preferably from about 5 to about 50% by weight, yet more preferably from about 5 to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous agent.
6. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein the alkane component a) is present in an amount of from about 10 to about 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous agent.
7. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein the alkane component a) is present in an amount of from about 15 to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous agent.
8. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein the or each fatty alcohol is a C12-C20 fatty alcohol, preferably a C14-C18 fatty alcohol.
9. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein component b) is myristyl alcohol, or cetearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof 10. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein the fatty alcohol component b) is present in an amount of from about 5 to about 40% by weight, preferably from about 10 to about 37% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous agent.
11. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein the fatty alcohol component b) is present in an amount of from about 15 to about 34% by weight, yet more preferably from about 20 to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous agent.
12. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein the or each C2-C8 alcohol is a C2-C6 alcohol, preferably a C2-C4 alcohol, more preferably a C2-C8 alcohol.
13. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein component c) comprises ethanol.
14. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein component c) consists of ethanol.
15. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein the C2-C8 alcohol component c) is present in an amount of from about 5 to about 50% by weight, preferably from about 5 to about 40% by weight, more preferably from about 5 to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous agent.
16. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein the emulsifier is selected from one or more of i) one or more cationic surfactants with a chain length of C8-C30, preferably C10-C25, more preferably C12-C22; ii) one or more fatty alcohol alkoxylates, with a degree of alkoxylation of 2-120, preferably 4-80, more preferably 6-60, yet more preferably 8-40, wherein the fatty alkyl chain length is C4-C30, preferably C6-C25, more preferably C8-C22; and iii) one or more alkyl sulfates with a chain length of C8-C30, preferably C10-C25, more preferably C12-C22 17. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein the emulsifier comprises i) one or more cationic surfactants with a chain length of C8-C30, preferably CI0-C25, more preferably C12-C22; and optionally one or more of H) one or more fatty alcohol alkoxylates, with a degree of alkoxylation of 2 -120, preferably 4-80, more preferably 6-60, yet more preferably 8-40, wherein the fatty alkyl chain length is C4-C30, preferably C6-C25, more preferably C8-C22, and iii) one or more alkyl sulfates with a chain length of C8-C30, preferably C10-C25, more preferably C12-C22 18. The anhydrous agent according to Statement 16 or 17, wherein the or each fatty alcohol alkoxyl ate is a fatty alcohol ethoxylates and/or fatty alcohol propoxyl ate.
19. The anhydrous agent according to any one of Statements 16 to 18, wherein the or each fatty alcohol ethoxylate is selected from ethoxylates of Beheneth, Ceteareth, Ceteth, Pareth, and Deceth, preferably of Ceteareth, more preferably Ceteareth-20.
20. The anhydrous agent according to any one of Statements 16 to 19, wherein the or each fatty alcohol propoxylate is PPG-3 Caprylyl Ether.
21 The anhydrous agent according to any one of Statements 16 to 20, wherein the or each cationic surfactant i) is selected from an alkyltrimonium compound having one or more C8-C22, more preferably C10-C18, even more preferably C12-C16 alkyl groups.
22. The anhydrous agent according to any one of Statements 16 to 21, wherein the cationic surfactant component i) comprises or consists of Cetrimonium chloride.
23. The anhydrous agent according to any one of Statements 16 to 22, wherein the or each cationic surfactant i) is selected from a tertiary amine, preferably Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behenam dopropyl Dimethylamine and Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine, 24. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein component d) comprises at least one cationic surfactant, a fatty alcohol ethoxylate and a fatty alcohol propoxylate.
25. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein component d) comprises Cetrimonium chloride, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Ceteareth-20 and PPG-3 Caprylyl Ether.
26. The anhydrous agent according to any one of Statements 16 to 25, wherein surfactant i) is present in an amount of from about 0.1%-20%, preferably from about 0.1%-15%, more preferably from about 0.1%-10%, by weight of the anhydrous agent.
27. The anhydrous agent according to any one of Statements 16 to 26, wherein surfactant ii) is present in an amount of from about 0.1%-10%, preferably from about 0.1%-5%, more preferably from about 0.1%-2.5%, by weight of the anhydrous agent.
28. The anhydrous agent according to any one of Statements 16 to 27, wherein surfactant iii) is present in an amount of from about 0.1%-10%, preferably from about 0.1%-5%, more preferably from about 0.1%-2.5%, by weight of the anhydrous agent.
29. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein the total amount of emulsifier component d) is from about 0.1 to about 25%, preferably from about 1-20%, by total weight of the anhydrous agent.
30. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein the total amount of emulsifier component d) is from about 2 to about 20%; preferably from about 2 to about 15%; more preferably from about 5 to about 15%, by total weight of the anhydrous agent.
31. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, further comprising an acid selected from one or more of citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid and glycolic acid.
32. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, further comprising a cosmetic oil.
33. The anhydrous agent according to Statement 32, wherein the cosmetic oil is at least one ester of a C8-C20 fatty acid and a CI-C20 alcohol.
34. The anhydrous agent according to Statement 32, wherein the cosmetic oil is selected from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl myri state, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, hexyldecyl laurate, hexyldecyl stearate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isononyl stearate, isotridecylnonanoate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate and/or mixtures of these esters.
The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, further comprising one or more silicones.
36. The anhydrous agent according to Statement 35, wherein the total amount of silicone(s), with respect to the total weight of the anhydrous agent, ranges from about 0.01 to about 20 wt. %, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 7.5 wt. %, and particularly from about 1 to about 5 wt. %.
37. The anhydrous agent according to any one of Statements 1 to 34, wherein the anhydrous agent is silicone-free.
38. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement, wherein the pH of the agent ranges from 2 to 8, preferably from 2 to about 6, more preferably from about 2 to about 4 39. Use of an anhydrous agent according to any preceding Statement for smoothing a keratinous material, for the care of a keratinous material and/or for the care and cleaning of a keratinous material.
40. A method of using the anhydrous agent according to any one of Statements 1 to 38, comprising mixing the anhydrous agent with a hydrating agent, and stirring and/or shaking the mixture 41. A method of treating keratin fibres, comprising mixing the anhydrous agent according to any one of Statements 1 to 38 with a hydrating agent, stirring and/or shaking the mixture, applying the resulting product to keratin fibres, and optionally rinsing the product from the keratin fibres.
42. A method according to Statement 40 or 41, wherein the hydrating agent is a water.
43. A method according to Statement 42, wherein the hydrating agent comprises water or a floral water.
Example
INCI Ingredient Wt% Isododecanel 25 Myristyl Alcohol' 14.7 Cetearyl Alcohol' 6.3 Alcohol denat. 26.6 PPG-3 Caprylyl Ether4 5 Ceteareth-205 0.8 Stearamidopropyl Dim ethylamine 3 Cetrimonium Chloride' 1.2 Dimethicone5 9.97 Ethylhexyl Stearate" 1.7 Methylparaben 1.2 Citric Acid 0.8 Cyclomethicone5 0.03 Aqua 1.76 Phenoxyethanol 1.6 Minor ingredients 0.34 Raw materials: PUROLAN IDD (Isododecan) 2Nacol 14-98 3Saboquat FIRC 4KAO Softcare GP-2 5Dimethicone 5 cSt [0093] Water was added to the above formulation, and the resulting mixture was shaken.
An emulsion was formed. The emulsion was applied to the hair after shampooing, and rinsed out. The product surprisingly improved combability of the hair, increased the shine and the hair feel was positively influenced.
[0094] It will be appreciated that the invention may be modified within the scope of the appended claims.
[0095] While at least one exemplary embodiment has been presented in the foregoing detailed description, it should be appreciated that a vast number of variations exist. It should also be appreciated that the exemplary embodiment or exemplary embodiments are only examples, and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability, or configuration of the various embodiments in any way. Rather, the foregoing detailed description will provide those skilled in the art with a convenient road map for implementing an exemplary embodiment as contemplated herein. It being understood that various changes may be made in the function and arrangement of elements described in an exemplary embodiment without departing from the scope of the various embodiments as set forth in the appended claims.

Claims (10)

  1. CLAIMSAn anhydrous agent for the care of keratinous material, comprising: a) at least one branched or linear C8-C30 alkane; b) at least one branched or linear C10-C22 fatty alcohol; c) at least one C2-C8 alcohol selected from branched or linear monohydric or dihydric C2-C8 alcohols; and d) at least one emulsifier.
  2. 2. The anhydrous agent according to claim I, wherein the or each alkane is a C10-C25 alkane, preferably a C12-C20 alkane, more preferably alkane component a) comprises or consists of isododecane.
  3. 3. The anhydrous agent according to claim 1 of claim 2, wherein the or each fatty alcohol is a 02-C20 fatty alcohol, preferably a C14-C18 fatty alcohol, more preferably the fatty alcohol component b) is myristyl alcohol, or cetearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof
  4. 4. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding claim, wherein the or each C2-C8 alcohol is a C2-C6 alcohol, preferably a C2-C4 alcohol, more preferably C2-C8 alcohol component c) comprises or consists of ethanol.
  5. 5. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding claim, wherein the emulsifier is selected from one or more of i) one or more cationic surfactants with a chain length of C8-C30, preferably C10-C25, more preferably C12-C22; ii) one or more fatty alcohol alkoxylates, with a degree of alkoxylation of 2 -120, preferably 4-80, more preferably 6-60, yet more preferably 8-40, wherein the fatty alkyl chain length is C4-C30, preferably C6-C25, more preferably C8-C22; and iii) one or more alkyl sulfates with a chain length of C8-C30, preferably C 10-C25, more preferably C12-C22.
  6. 6 The anhydrous agent according to claim 5, wherein the cationic surfactant component i) comprises or consists of Cetrimonium chloride, and/or the or each cationic surfactant i) is selected from a tertiary amine, preferably Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine and Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine,
  7. 7. The anhydrous agent according to any preceding claim, wherein the pH of the agent ranges from about 2 to about 8, preferably from about 2 to about 6, more preferably from about 2 to about 4.
  8. 8. Use of an anhydrous agent according to any preceding claim for smoothing a keratinous material, for the care of a keratinous material and/or for the care and cleaning of a keratinous material.
  9. 9. A method of using the anhydrous agent according to any one of claims Ito 7, comprising mixing the anhydrous agent with a hydrating agent, and stirring and/or shaking the mixture.
  10. 10. A method of treating keratin fibres, comprising mixing the anhydrous agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7 with a hydrating agent, stirring and/or shaking the mixture, applying the resulting product to keratin fibres, and optionally rinsing the product from the keratin fibres.
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Citations (6)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1997046205A2 (en) * 1996-06-05 1997-12-11 The Procter & Gamble Company Anti-viral, anhydrous, and mild skin lotions for application to tissue paper products
WO1999045771A1 (en) * 1998-03-12 1999-09-16 The Procter & Gamble Company Tissue paper having antimicrobial skin lotion
EP1576948A2 (en) * 2004-03-17 2005-09-21 Beiersdorf AG anhydrous composition containing polar coloring agent
WO2014118231A2 (en) * 2013-01-29 2014-08-07 L'oreal Dye composition using at least one coupler of meta-aminophenol type in a medium comprising a fatty substance, processes and device
US20150366771A1 (en) * 2013-01-29 2015-12-24 L'oreal Dye composition using at least one coupler of meta-phenylenediamine type substituted in position 4 in a medium comprising a fatty substance, processes and device
WO2020142514A1 (en) * 2018-12-31 2020-07-09 L'oreal Hair care and conditioning compositions

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1997046205A2 (en) * 1996-06-05 1997-12-11 The Procter & Gamble Company Anti-viral, anhydrous, and mild skin lotions for application to tissue paper products
WO1999045771A1 (en) * 1998-03-12 1999-09-16 The Procter & Gamble Company Tissue paper having antimicrobial skin lotion
EP1576948A2 (en) * 2004-03-17 2005-09-21 Beiersdorf AG anhydrous composition containing polar coloring agent
WO2014118231A2 (en) * 2013-01-29 2014-08-07 L'oreal Dye composition using at least one coupler of meta-aminophenol type in a medium comprising a fatty substance, processes and device
US20150366771A1 (en) * 2013-01-29 2015-12-24 L'oreal Dye composition using at least one coupler of meta-phenylenediamine type substituted in position 4 in a medium comprising a fatty substance, processes and device
WO2020142514A1 (en) * 2018-12-31 2020-07-09 L'oreal Hair care and conditioning compositions

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FR3104959B1 (en) 2023-09-22

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