GB2570728A - Three-dimensional embroidery - Google Patents

Three-dimensional embroidery Download PDF

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Publication number
GB2570728A
GB2570728A GB1801923.2A GB201801923A GB2570728A GB 2570728 A GB2570728 A GB 2570728A GB 201801923 A GB201801923 A GB 201801923A GB 2570728 A GB2570728 A GB 2570728A
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GB
United Kingdom
Prior art keywords
product
embroidery
planar
embroidered
dimensional
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Granted
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GB1801923.2A
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GB2570728B (en
GB201801923D0 (en
Inventor
Tomlinson Lisa
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Bayerische Motoren Werke AG
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Bayerische Motoren Werke AG
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Priority to GB1801923.2A priority Critical patent/GB2570728B/en
Publication of GB201801923D0 publication Critical patent/GB201801923D0/en
Publication of GB2570728A publication Critical patent/GB2570728A/en
Application granted granted Critical
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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05CEMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05C17/00Embroidered or tufted products; Base fabrics specially adapted for embroidered work; Inserts for producing surface irregularities in embroidered products
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05DINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2209/00Use of special materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05DINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2305/00Operations on the work before or after sewing
    • D05D2305/22Physico-chemical treatments
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05DINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2305/00Operations on the work before or after sewing
    • D05D2305/50Removing cut-out material or waste

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Automatic Embroidering For Embroidered Or Tufted Products (AREA)
  • Decoration Of Textiles (AREA)

Abstract

A method of manufacturing a non-planar three-dimensional product 10 with a pre-determined form comprises embroidering on or through a substantially planar removable material 17 with one or more filaments. One or more of the filaments embroidered into the material are put under tension. After embroidering all or part of the removable material is removed such that the tension in the filaments pulls the embroidery into a non-planar three-dimensional shape. Products of methods of the invention are for inclusion in a vehicle interior. The removable material may be held under tension during the embroidery stage. The removable material may be water soluble or water insoluble and solvent soluble such that a portion of it may be removed by a solvent and the remainder may be washable in water. The embroidery may comprise lock-stitches produced on a sewing machine.

Description

Three-dimensional Embroidery
Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to non-planar three-dimensional objects made up of embroidery stitching and methods for manufacturing such products.
Background to the Invention
Embroidery of two-dimensional fabrics, such as cloth and leather, has been carried out since prehistoric times - indeed the invention of the needle with an eye counts as one of the first human tools and its associated specialised craft.
Furthermore, methods of shaping embroidered objects into three dimensions to cover or decorate those objects has also been known since prehistoric times.
Three-dimensional (3D) embroidery is most commonly produced by embroidering over a three-dimensional foam or other former which is then attached to a fabric. This is often used for producing logos on caps or similar apparel. However, using a former, such as foam, under embroidery means that a relatively solid shape is formed. Such embroidery is generally employed for producing block shapes and colours.
Another method of producing three dimensional embroidery is to hand sew thick thread, using decorative knots and woven stitches to create a three-dimensional effect.
Object of the Invention
An object of the present invention is to provide three dimensional products made substantially of embroidery stitches wherein the embroidery stitches provide the mechanical support of the structure of the product. The invention also aims to provide methods for the manufacture of such products.
-2Summary of the Invention
Accordingly, the invention provides a method of making a non-planar threedimensional product with a pre-determined form comprising the steps of:
embroidering on or through a substantially planar removable material with one or more filaments, wherein one or more of the filaments embroidered into the material are put under tension; and removing all or part of the material such that the tension in the filaments pulls the embroidery into a non-planar three-dimensional shape.
The object of the invention is achieved by embroidering filaments into a removable material under tension, wherein extraction of the removable material from the embroidery piece allows the thread tension to pull the embroidery into a non-planar three-dimensional shape. The product is pulled into shape in the sense that tension in the filaments that is resisted by the rigidity and/or resilience of the removable backing material is released when the material is removed allowing the tension in the filaments to pull the overall product into the non-planar three-dimensional shape.
The invention also provides products manufactured according to methods of the invention.
The invention also provides a non-planar three-dimensional product comprising one or more filaments formed into embroidery stitches, wherein one or more of the filaments is under tension, and wherein the product has a pre-determined form.
The invention also provides a method of making an embroidered product with a predetermined form comprising the steps of:
embroidering on or through a substantially planar removable material with one or more filaments, wherein one or more of the filaments embroidered into the material are put under tension; and removing the tension from the material such that the tension in the filaments pulls the embroidered product into a non-planar three-dimensional shape
The invention further provides an embroidered product made according to a predetermined design comprising a removable material in which at least one filament
-3is embroidered, and wherein at least one filament is under tension such that the product is substantially non-planar. This product may be processed by partial or complete removal of the removable material to yield a product of the invention.
Thus the invention also provides a method of providing an intermediate product for use in the methods of the invention or for producing products of the invention.
A non-planar product means one that is substantially not flat or two dimensional. That is, such a non-planar product has a substantially three-dimensional form. In the context of the present invention such non-planar products are produced because of the tension of the filaments comprised in the products of the invention or embroidered according to the methods of the invention.
As noted above, embroidery is a well known craft activity. In the normal course of embroidery tension in the threads of the embroidery is carefully controlled so that excessive tension in the threads do not cause wrinkles or other distortions in the fabric being embroidered. Embroidery is most often done to produce a twodimensional product. Alternatively embroidery is used to decorate a threedimensional object that already has a specific form. Distortions or deformations in the fabric of such embroidered objects would spoil the structure and appearance of the object and the piece of embroidery.
In contrast, in the methods and products of the present invention it is intended that the tension in the filaments is sufficient (when released from its constraining structure) to deform the embroidery to have a non-planar three-dimensional form. For the reasons given above generating such levels of tension in embroidery filaments is incompatible with known embroidery techniques.
The embroidery may be carried out using a sewing machine. As noted above, in the past achieving a three dimensional effect with embroidery has been achieved by hand embroidery techniques. However, these techniques are very time-consuming and the thick wool and thread that is often used can lose their shape easily. Furthermore the thick wool and thread that is often used is not particularly durable.
-4The product may be made according to a design for producing the pre-determined form. Preferably the design is pre-programmed into a sewing machine suitable for the automated embroidery of two-dimensional designs into two dimensional material or cloth. Most preferably the design is prepared on a computer and then transferred to the storage medium of this sewing machine. The pre-determined form may be a feather or flower petal.
In typical methods of the invention, preparing the product comprises preparing one or more intermediates. Preferably, a first intermediate is prepared by embroidering onto backing. Optionally, a second intermediate is obtained by removing part of the backing; for example by (i) detaching the first intermediate from a frame, (ii) removing excess backing such as by cutting away backing around the intermediate or (iii) partially but not completely dissolving soluble backing.
In a preferred example of the invention, an initially embroidered intermediate is in a substantially planar form and comprises stiches under tension. But for being held by removable backing material, that tension would pull the intermediate out of its planar form. The tension resists this deformation. Also, having the backing material held in an outer frame, which is optional, may further resist such deformation. Upon partial or complete removal of the backing, and removal too of the frame if used, the tension is released and is able to pull the intermediate into a non-planar form. Typically, the non-planar form comprises portions noticeably out of plane with each other, rising proud of the plane of the rest of the product. Portions of the product may thus curl out of the plane by the action of the released tension.
By way of specific examples, an embroidered feather made by the invention comprises barbs the ends of which are remote from the central shaft and are curved out of plane with the shaft. As another specific example, an embroidered flower petal is prepared as an intermediate that is substantially flat due to tension against the backing and I or frame and then when released curves into an arcuate petal shape, comprising an approximately domed portion, the dome shape caused by released thread tension. Dome portions of adjacent petals made by the invention may be
-5assembled in partially overlapping arrangement to create an embroidered flower made up of multiple petals.
Embroidery designs are typically designed and/or prepared using a software package for this purpose. Such software allows individual stitches to be defined for production on an embroidery machine. This software may also allow defined shapes to be filled with different styles of stitches for production on an embroidery machine. Once a design is prepared, it can be saved and transferred to an embroidery machine for production. In the specific examples described herein the designs of the embroidered products are prepared using the design software Wilcom Embroidery Studio e3.0.
The tension in the thread of the embroidered product is usually set when the design is being prepared using the embroidery software. The characteristics of the stitches can be adjusted in many different ways within the software. Advantageously, dense stitches can be created by adding multiple layers of embroidery to thicken certain areas of the design. An alternative and further advantage is that a softer more flexible shape can be created by using fewer layers of stitches. The curvature of the stitches can also affect the tension and the final shape of the 3D embroidery. By way of specific example, using the ‘Florentine effect’ tool on the Wilcom Embroidery software, or an equivalent effect with similar embroidery software, a shape can be defined as being filled with embroidery stitches and then the angle of the stitches can be adjusted to create a curve. In this way certain areas of the shape are made denser than others in order to cause a curved 3D structure to form when the embroidery product is partially or completely released from the removable material.
Thus the present invention has a significant advantage over known methods of producing three-dimensional embroidery because the methods of the invention may be carried out using mechanical sewing techniques and are therefore quicker to produce, and therefore cheaper, than hand sewing techniques. Furthermore, the present invention has the additional significant advantage of being able to utilise existing sewing machines with the minor adaptation of the machines to generate tension in the stitches embroidered using these machines.
-6Any suitable embroidery sewing machine can be used in the methods of the invention and/or to produce the products of the invention. By way of specific example, the Melco Saurer Amaya XT Embroidery Machine is suitable for working the present invention.
The present invention also has the advantage of allowing the creation of threedimensional embroidered objects using standard embroidery thread. Accordingly, the filament may be a thread. Alternatively the thread may be a flexible wire or leather lace. Preferably the thread is sewing thread, more preferably the thread is made of any of the following materials: cotton, a cotton/polyester mix, linen, nylon, polyester, rayon, silk or wool. The filament may be coloured. The filament may be of a single colour or multiple colours
A range of thread thicknesses may be used in order to produce a range of different effects and textures in the three dimensional embroidery produced according to the invention. Most embroidery threads will be suitable for use in the context of the invention.
Embroidery thread can be used in preference to standard sewing thread because it has the advantage of being thinner and thus allowing more detail to be defined in an embroidery design. In addition embroidery thread can have a gloss-coated finish which can be used to add further detail to an embroidered product by allowing for further variation in texture to be introduced to the design and the product.
A specific thread used is ISACORD Embroidery Thread, No. 40, made by Amann Group.
Furthermore, as noted above, the three-dimensional objects produced by the methods of the present invention are more durable than those produced by hand embroidery and can be more realistic and appear more delicate than those made by current methods of machine embroidery. This is possible because using methods of the present invention means that the sewing thread is held in place because the design of the embroidery causes the stitches to overlap and interlock and this, in
-7turn, stabilises and forms the shape of the product. It is preferred that the filaments or threads of the embroidery product interlock in this way otherwise the finished embroidery risks not having structural integrity of itself when the embroidery is partially or completely released from the removable material.
An underlay embroidery layer of zig-zag stitches sewn beneath a layer of further, more visible stitching can be used to ensure that the threads of the embroidery interlock. Preferably, all of the threads of the embroidery interlock.
A particular advantage of the invention is that no other materials are required to be attached to the embroidery and this allows the shape to move freely without restriction. Thus three-dimensional object can be made which are significantly lighter than those previously known and which can therefore be suitably attached to other materials using an applique embroidery technique.
Accordingly, the stitches may be lock stitches, such as those made by a sewing machine.
A lockstitch is the most common mechanical stitch made by a sewing machine. A lockstitch is formed of two separate threads, an upper and a lower. Lockstitch is so named because these two threads lock (entwine) together in the hole in the fabric which they pass through. Typically in a sewing machine the upper thread runs from a spool kept on a spindle on top of or next to the machine, through a tension mechanism, through the take-up arm and finally through the hole in the needle. Meanwhile the lower thread is wound onto a bobbin, which is inserted into a case in the lower section of the sewing machine below the material.
In addition, ‘Tatami’ stitches, which create a woven appearance, are particularly preferred for filling areas with embroidery as using this type of stitch creates a woven appearance. However, a zig-zag underlay layer of stitching is usually required for areas filled with this type of stitching to ensure that that all of the threads of the Tatami layer interlock.
-8Also a ‘run’ stitch can be used. This type of stitching is preferred when the embroidery pattern does not repeat itself. This type of stitching is particularly preferred for producing designs having a form similar to a sketch or line drawing rendered in stitches. Such embroidery designs are most conveniently produced on embroidery software by hand drawing.
By way of specific examples, an embroidered feather made according to the invention was drawn by hand in embroidery software as the feather contains many different lines which are best and most efficiently defined by hand drawing.
The removable material may be under tension while being embroidered. The amount of tension in the material being embroidered may be varied in order to compensate for tension in the threads as they are embroidered in order that the workpiece can remain substantially flat during the embroidery process. This has the advantage that the design can be two-dimensional and this two-dimensional design will be most accurately realised on a two-dimensional/plain workpiece. Thus, tensioning the material allows a greater degree of tension to be applied to the embroidered filaments during the working of the invention than if the material is not embroidered under tension.
In the context of the present invention a removable material is one that may be included in an embroidery workpiece according to the methods of the present invention but may be treated in order that some or all of this material is extracted from the fully or partially completed workpiece to yield a finished or intermediate product.
The amount of removable material that is removed can be varied. In this way it is possible to control the amount of removable material that remains within the threedimensional embroidery. Preferably, all of the removable material is removed in order to produce an object that is as light as possible and which offers the possibility of including delicate details in the design. Alternatively, a stronger product may be provided by only partially removing the removable material.
-9The removable material may be soluble. Preferably the removable material is soluble in water. Most preferably the water is warmed before being used to dissolve the removable material as this makes the removal step more rapid and hence quicker to complete.
The removable material may be a PVA (polyvinyl acetate)-based material. Such materials have the advantage of being water soluble and non-toxic. A specific removable material is Aquatics ROMEO Heavy Weight Water Soluble Film. One stock removable material used successfully was 76 cm wide.
The removable material may be soluble in an organic solvent. Preferably such a removable material is insoluble in water. Such a removable material has the advantage of being able to be selectively removed using an organic solvent while the remaining portions of removable material are insoluble in water. In this way a product can be made that is structurally supported by the retained removable material but it easily washed or further processed in water or aqueous solutions. Such processes may include applying dyes, preservatives or stain repellents.
The invention further provides products, suitably manufactured according to methods of the invention, wherein the product consists of one or more filaments formed into embroidery stitches. Such products have the advantage that the embroidery stage of production can be entirely carried out on a sewing machine as described above, meaning products can be produced more quickly and efficiently than if the product consists of more than filaments formed into embroidery stitches.
A product of the invention and/or a product manufactured according to a method of the invention may be for mounting on a vehicle. The vehicle may be an automobile, preferably a car. More preferably the product is for mounting in the interior cabin of the vehicle. Most preferably, the product is for mounting on a seat of the vehicle.
-10Examples and Description of the Drawings
The invention is now illustrated in the following specific embodiments with reference to the accompanying drawings showing:Fig. 1 The stages in production of a three-dimensional machine sewn product of the invention, in this case a feather.
Fig. 2 Finished three-dimensional machine sewn objects (feathers) produced according to methods of the invention which are mounted by an applique technique on an automobile (car) seat cover.
Fig. 3 Individual products of the invention, in this case pink flower petals suitable for being arranged and fixed together to form a whole flower bloom.
Example 1
A feather 10 was chosen as the target product and an embroidery design for the feather prepared and then the sewing pattern programmed into the sewing machine. Portions of the embroidery design were drawn and input into the sewing pattern software (Wilcom Embroidery Studio e3.0) by hand as the design contains many different and independent lines which are best and most efficiently represented by hand drawing. The feather 10 included thicker shaft 12 and rachis 14 sections, allowing denser sewing to form those sections, leading to side barbs 15 and after feathers 16 with less dense sewing but nevertheless, as described below, sufficient thread to create tension in the initial flat sewing of the embroidery.
The embroidery design was then machine sewn using a Melco Saurer Amaya XT Embroidery Machine with ISACORD Embroidery Thread, No. 40on to polyvinyl acetate (PVA)-based water-soluble backing paper 17 (Aquatics ROMEO Heavy Weight Water Soluble Film). This step is illustrated in Figure 1A. The backing was held tight in two dimensions between and within an approximately rectangular frame 19, three sides of which 19a, b, and c are seen in Figure 1.
-11 The embroidery was intentionally sewn with a tension in the thread(s), drawing them tight against resistance from the frame 19, leading in some cases to slight ruffling in the backing material, seen for example at 18.
Once the sewing process was complete, the embroidery was removed from the sewing machine and the embroidered forms cut out of the frame 19 and in turn from the backing paper 17 as per the design, leaving small border of backing remaining. This step is illustrated in Figure 1B. The released intermediate takes on a slightly non-planar, curved form according to the degree of tension in the threads across different parts of the design. The feather was thus slightly curled though the continuing presence of the backing 17 resisted complete curling of the feather (see Figure 2 below).
The embroidered forms were then immersed in warm water. As PVA is watersoluble the backing paper was dissolved and completely removed and all that remained was embroidery thread. This stage and the finished product are illustrated in Figures 1C showing a dried intermediate and, after a colouring step, 1D. After further colouring and finishing the feathers 10 were attached to waterfall section 22 between rear seats 23 of a car. The feathers were now curled into 3-dimensional items as per the design and tension included in the original embroidery stage - see Figure 2 showing the items from different angles to illustrate their 3 dimensional form.
Example 2
A flower was chosen as the ultimate target product: specifically a rose. Therefore individual rose petals 30 were chosen as the pre-determined form to be produced with the intention that they then be assembled into a complete flower bloom. An embroidery design for the petals was prepared using sewing pattern software (Wilcom Embroidery Studio e3.0) and then the sewing pattern programmed into the sewing machine (Melco Saurer Amaya XT)..
The embroidery design was then machine sewn by a similar method to that set out in Example 1, above, using ISACORD Embroidery Thread, No. 40on to polyvinyl
-12 acetate (PVA)-based water-soluble backing paper (Aquatics ROMEO Heavy Weight Water Soluble Film). The backing was held tight in two dimensions between and within an approximately rectangular frame. An example of such a frame is the rectangular frame 19 in Figure 1. The embroidery was intentionally sewn with a tension in the thread(s), drawing them tight against resistance from the frame.
Once the sewing process was complete, the embroidery was removed from the sewing machine and the embroidered forms cut out of the frame and in turn from the backing paper as per the design, leaving small border of backing remaining. The released intermediate takes on a slightly non-planar, curved form according to the degree of tension in the threads across different parts of the design. The petal was thus slightly curled though the continuing presence of the backing resisted curling of the petal into the form of the finished product.
The embroidered forms were then immersed in warm water. As PVA is watersoluble the backing paper was dissolved and completely removed and all that remained was embroidery thread. The individual petals 10 have a curved surface 12 with a denser edge portion 14, as shown in Figure 3. Figures 3A, 3B and 3C show how the petals 10 curl into three-dimensional items as per the design owing to the tension applied to the threads during the original embroidery stage.
After further colouring and finishing the petals are sewn together to form a complete bloom. The blooms are then attached to the waterfall section between the rear seats of a car. In addition the blooms are ready for further embellishment by being sewn to further flower parts formed from three-dimensional embroidery, e.g. stem, leaves, pedicel, stamen, ovary and/or sepals.
The invention thus provides three-dimensional embroidery products and methods for producing such products. The invention also provides intermediate products for working the invention and methods for their manufacture.

Claims (30)

1. A method of manufacturing a non-planar three-dimensional product with a predetermined form comprising the steps of:
(a) embroidering on or through a substantially planar removable material with one or more filaments, wherein one or more of the filaments embroidered into the material are put under tension; and (b) removing all or part of the material such that the tension in the filaments pulls the embroidery into a non-planar three-dimensional shape.
2. A method of manufacturing an embroidered product with a pre-determined form comprising the steps of:
(a) embroidering on or through a substantially planar removable material with one or more filaments, wherein one or more of the filaments embroidered into the material are put under tension; and (b) removing the tension from the material such that the tension in the filaments pulls the embroidered product into a non-planar threedimensional shape
3. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the product is made according to a design for producing the pre-determined form.
4. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the embroidery is carried out on a sewing machine.
5. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the filament is a thread, preferably a sewing thread.
6. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the stitches are lock stitches
7. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the removable material is under tension while being embroidered.
8. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the removable material is soluble.
9. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the removable material is soluble in water.
10. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the removable material is PVA (polyvinyl acetate)-based.
11. A method according to any of claims 1-8, wherein the removable material is soluble in an organic solvent.
12. A non-planar three-dimensional product manufactured according to any of claims 1-11.
13. A non-planar three-dimensional product manufactured according to any of claims 1 and 3-11, wherein the product consists of one or more filaments formed into embroidery stitches.
14. A non-planar three-dimensional product comprising one or more filaments formed into embroidery stitches, wherein one or more of the filaments is under tension, and wherein the product has a pre-determined form.
15. A non-planar three-dimensional product according to claim 14, wherein the product consists of one or more filaments formed into embroidery stitches.
16. A non-planar three-dimensional product according either claim 14 or claim 15, wherein the product is made according to a design for the pre-determined form.
17. An embroidered product according to any of claims 14-16, wherein the stitches are lock stitches
18. An embroidered product according to any of claims 14-17, wherein the filament is a thread, preferably a sewing thread.
19. A non-planar three-dimensional product according to any of claims 12-18, for mounting on a vehicle.
20. A non-planar three-dimensional product according to claim 19, wherein the product is for mounting in the interior cabin of the vehicle.
21. A non-planar three-dimensional product according to claim 20, wherein the vehicle is an automobile, preferably a car.
22. A non-planar three-dimensional product according any of claims 19-21, wherein the product is for mounting on a seat of the vehicle.
23. A non-planar three-dimensional product according to any of claims 12-26, wherein the pre-determined form is a feather.
24. A non-planar three-dimensional product according to any of claims 12-26, wherein the pre-determined form is a flower petal.
25. An embroidered product made according to a predetermined design comprising a removable material in which at least one filament is embroidered, and wherein at least one filament is under tension such that the product is substantially nonplanar.
26. An embroidered product according to claim 25, wherein the product is for processing by partial or complete removal of the removable material to yield a product according to any of claims 12-24.
27. An embroidered product according to either of claims 25 or 26, wherein the removable material is soluble.
28. An embroidered product according to any of claims 25-27, wherein the removable material is soluble in water.
29. An embroidered product according to any of claims 25-28, wherein the 5 removable material is PVA (polyvinyl acetate)-based.
30. An embroidered product according to any of claims 25-27, wherein the removable material is soluble in an organic solvent.
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CN105155163A (en) * 2015-10-21 2015-12-16 马继芳 Embroidery method based on baseless cloth

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2322637A (en) * 1997-02-20 1998-09-02 Hung Jung Tang Ornamental fabric
DE19817694A1 (en) * 1997-05-27 1998-12-03 Titv Greiz Three dimensional embroidery
CN105155163A (en) * 2015-10-21 2015-12-16 马继芳 Embroidery method based on baseless cloth

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN111676609A (en) * 2020-05-27 2020-09-18 清华大学 Cloth manufacturing method and cloth
CN111676609B (en) * 2020-05-27 2022-04-12 清华大学 Cloth manufacturing method and cloth

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GB201801923D0 (en) 2018-03-21

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