GB2400862A

GB2400862A - Loom for weaving fabric with full woven selvedge

Info

Publication number: GB2400862A
Application number: GB0309522A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Paul Callaghan
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2003-04-26
Filing date: 2003-04-26
Publication date: 2004-10-27
Anticipated expiration: 2023-04-26
Also published as: GB0309522D0; GB2400862B

Abstract

A loom is adapted to weave fabric with a full woven selvedge, e.g. for making kilts, by inserting an excess length 243 of weft at least equal to the width of the warp sheet and the excess is held, e.g. by a suction device 150; the inserted weft is then beaten up e.g. by a reed 170 and the shed is changed whereupon the excess weft forms a new pick which is beaten up and the shed changed again. The loom is suitable a rapier loom with the warps occupying only half the loom width. A first inserter 110 inserts the weft in both picks while the second inserter 120 transfers the excess weft to the holding means 150. The left hand edge of the fabric may have a cut or tucked-in selvedge.

Description

LOOM AND WEAVING METHOD

The present invention relates to a loom and a method of manufacturing a woven fabric, particularly, though not exclusively, to a loom for manufacturing a woven fabric having a full woven selvedge for kilt manufacture.

A traditional authentic kilt cannot have a hem of any description and so requires the employment of a fabric having a full woven selvedge. This means that when it is woven the yarn that goes across the width of the fabric (the weft) must return at the edge and not be trimmed or cut at the edge.

Fabrics having a full woven selvedge, and in particular fabrics for use in the manufacture of kilts, are of course known. However, the only known method to manufacture such a fabric employs a shuttle loom.

Shuttle looms are very slow and inefficient and require a great deal of preparation, support and supervision. Thus, the manufacture of fabrics having a full woven selvedge can be particularly time consuming and labour intensive resulting in considerable manufacturing costs. Although modern looms have been able to replace shuttle looms for the manufacture of a great deal of fabrics, no known machine is capable of giving a fabric having a full woven selvedge which has the fabric characteristics required for certain applications, in particular for kilt manufacture.

Modern looms, such as rapier and air jet looms, cannot produce the required full woven selvedge, instead, they produce fabrics that have trimmed and cut weft edges, which then require hemming before making into a garment.

There is an optional accessory called a tuck-in device, which can avoid the production of a fabric having loose weft yarn ends by tucking the free ends of the weft yarns S back into the fabric body. However, such devices are only capable of reinserting a small length of the weft yarn end into the woven fabric body. Although this creates a neater edge it also creates a small hem-like edge which is not suitable for certain applications, in particular for kilt manufacture, the reason being that for such applications it is important that the fabric has the same thickness throughout and this can only be achieved by having a full woven selvedge.

When the fabric for kilts is woven using known methods it is generally around 60 inches (1.52 metres) wide and has a full woven selvedge at each weft edge. In the manufacture of kilts the fabric ls then cut down the middle with each half being used to manufacture a kilt. The woven selvedge edge from each half of the fabric is used for the bottom edge of a kilt, with the cut edge becoming the waist band of the kilt.

The present invention aims to address at least one disadvantage associated with the prior art, whether discussed herein or otherwise, in relation to the manufacture of a fabric having a full woven selvedge.

According to a first aspect of the present invention there is provided a loom arranged to produce a woven fabric comprising warp and weft yarns and having a first weft edge having a full woven selvedge, the loom being arranged to lay weft yarns into a warp sheet of yarns by forming a shed of warp yarns, in which weft yarns can be laid, and wherein the loom comprises means arranged to produce said full woven selvedge by: S (a) causing a length of weft yarn to be drawn from a yarn supply across the width of the warp sheet of the fabric, such that a portion of the weft yarn is laid within the shed and an excess having a length equal to or greater than the width of the warp sheet is created) (b) holding the weft yarn in position such that the excess weft yarn is kept clear of the warp sheet; (c) causing the weft yarn laid within the shed to be introduced into the body of the fabric and then crossing the warp sheet; (d) causing the excess weft yarn to be drawn across the width of the warp sheet, such that it is laid within the shed, to create the woven selvedge; and (e) causing the excess weft yarn laid within the shed to be introduced into the body of the fabric and then crossing the warp sheet.

Preferably, the loom comprises means arranged in step (a) to cause a length of weft yarn to be drawn from a yarn supply to extend across the width of the warp sheet of the fabric and then to continue to be drawn across the warp sheet to create an excess, having a length equal to or greater than the width of the warp sheet, extending beyond the warp sheet and to lay the remainder of the length within the shed, and in step (d) to cause the excess weft yarn to be drawn back across the width of the warp sheet and be laid within the shed to create the woven selvedge.

Preferably, the excess has a length slightly greater than the width of the warp sheet.

By "crossing the warp sheet" it is meant that warp yarns which formed the top strands of the shed are moved such that they become the bottom strands of the shed and vice versa. This, and other terms used herein, are well known to those within the weaving art and are intended to have their normal meaning unless otherwise stated.

Preferably, the loom comprises a rapier loom. Preferably, the loom comprises a commercially available rapier loom which has been adapted to provide a loom in accordance with the invention.

Preferably, the warp sheet is arranged to extend across no more than half of the width of the loom. Preferably, the warp sheet is arranged to extend across half of the width of the loom. Preferably, at step (a) the weft yarn is arranged to be drawn across the full width of the loom.

Preferably, the warp sheet is arranged to lie within the half of the loom adjacent to that from which the weft yarn is initially drawn at step (a).

Preferably, the loom comprises a first gripper arranged to draw the weft yarn from a yarn supply and take the weft yarn across the width of the warp sheet. Suitably, the first gripper travels as far as the centre of the loom.

Suitably, the loom comprises a second gripper arranged to take the weft yarn from the first gripper and to take it across the second half of the width of the loom.

Suitably, the loom comprises a number of yarn supplies arranged to supply weft yarns and a selector arranged to select a weft yarn from one of the yarn supplies and present it to the first gripper.

Suitably, the selector is arranged to present a free end of a weft yarn to the gripper which may then grip said yarn. Suitably, the selector and gripper may comprise means which operate by methods employed by commercially available looms and which are know to those skilled in the art.

Suitably, at step (a), the first gripper is arranged to travel from a first position, wherein it lies at a first side of the loom to a second position wherein it lies at the centre of the loom. Preferably, the second gripper is arranged to travel between a first position, wherein it lies at the second side of the loom, and a second position, wherein it lies at the centre of the loom.

Suitably, the first gripper is arranged to carry the weft yarn from its first position to its second position and the second gripper is arranged to travel from its first position to its second position as the first gripper does so. Suitably, the first gripper then releases the yarn and the second gripper picks it up. The first gripper may be caused to release the yarn by a trigger. Suitably, the trigger may cause a jaw of the gripper to open. Suitably, the second gripper is arranged to carry the weft yarn from its second position to its first position and the first gripper is arranged to return from its second position to its first position as the second gripper does so.

Suitably, as the second gripper returns to its first position, or alternatively shortly before or shortly after it does so, it is arranged to release the weft yarn.

Suitably, the loom is provided with holding means which, at step (b), hold the yarn in position such that the portion extending through the shed is relatively taught and the excess yarn is kept clear of the warp sheet.

Preferably, the holding means comprises an apparatus creating a vacuum. Preferably, the holding means comprises a holder having an inlet into which air is drawn. Preferably, the excess yarn is drawn through the inlet into said holder. Suitably, the holder comprises an open ended tubular member. Preferably, the holder is provided with a funnel defining said inlet. Suitably, the inlet comprises a slotted aperture.

Preferably, the holder is positioned in a central region of the loom. Suitably, the holder is arranged such that the slot extends parallel to the direction in which the weft yarn is carried by the grippers. Preferably, the holder is positioned such that it lies closer to the second side of the loom than to the first side thereof.

Suitably, the loom comprises a reed. Preferably, the loom is arranged such that, at step (c), the weft yarn within the shed is beaten into the body of the fabric by a reed and the warp is then crossed. Preferably, the weft yarn is beaten into the body of the fabric while the holder holds the weft yarn.

Suitably, once the weft yarn has been beaten into the body of the fabric and the warp has been crossed the yarn may be cut from the yarn supply. Thus, a free weft end may be created at the second weft edge.

Preferably, at step (d), the first gripper is arranged to travel from its first position to its second position and pick up the excess weft yarn and return towards its first position carrying the excess weft yarn with it through the shed. Suitably, the first gripper picks up the excess yarn by initially engaging a point along the length of the excess yarn neighbouring the portion of weft yarn previously introduced into the fabric body. Suitably, the excess weft yarn is picked up by the first gripper when the first gripper is at or near to its second position.

Preferably, the excess weft yarn is picked up as the gripper returns towards its first position.

Preferably, the gripper comprises an engagement member arranged to pick the excess yarn up. Suitably, the engagement member comprises an eyelet. Suitably, the engagement member is attached to a jaw of the first gripper. Suitably, the engagement member is arranged to engage the excess weft yarn as the first gripper moves back towards its first position.

Suitably, the holder is arranged to continue to hold a portion of the excess yarn as the first gripper returns towards its first position such that the yarn is kept relatively taught. Suitably, the holder retains the excess yarn loosely such that the excess is gradually released from the holder as the first gripper returns to its first position. Suitably, the end of the excess yarn is held within the holder until the first gripper is approximately half way through its return journey towards its first position. Suitably, the first gripper releases the yarn once it reaches its first position.

Suitably, the holder is arranged such that a portion of the excess weft yarn extending from the portion of the weft yarn which was introduced into the fabric body at step (c) to the holder lies in the path of the first gripper such that it can be picked up thereby.

Preferably, the loom comprises a trigger arranged to cause the first gripper to engage the excess weft yarn at step (d) as it begins to move back towards its first position.

Suitably, the trigger is arranged to cause a jaw of the first gripper to which an engagement member is attached to open such that the excess weft yarn then lies in the path of the engagement member.

Suitably, the engagement member is attached to a jaw of the first gripper such that, at step (d), as the gripper travels from its first position to its second position with said jaw closed the engagement member passes under the portion of excess weft yarn extending between the portion of yarn introduced into the fabric body at step (c) and the holder. Suitably, the trigger is arranged to cause the jaw of the first gripper to open such that the engagement member is elevated in height.

Suitably, the engagement member is arranged such that when the first gripper moves from its second position back towards its first position with the jaw open it engages (and does not pass under) the portion of excess weft yarn extending between the portion of yarn introduced into the fabric body at step (c) and the holder. Suitably, the engagement member is arranged to hook the excess weft yarn as the first gripper begins to move back towards its first position.

The loom may be arranged such that as the first gripper travels to and from its second position at step (d) so too does the second gripper. Whilst this may not be desirable or necessary for the operation of the loom at step (d) it may allow for the most convenient loom construction with both grippers being simultaneously driven. Thus, the holder may be arranged to ensure that the second gripper does not interfere with the picking up of the excess yarn by the first gripper.

Preferably, the loom is arranged such that once the first gripper has returned to its first position and the excess weft yarn extends within the shed across the width of the warp sheet the weft yarn is beaten into the body of the fabric by the reed and the warp sheet is crossed at step (e).

Thus, a full woven selvedge may be formed along the first weft edge of the fabric which lies within the central region of the loom.

The loom may be arranged to finish the second weft edge by methods employed by commercially available looms and which are known to those skilled in the art.

The loom may be arranged to finish the second weft edge by performing a cutting or trimming operation. The fabric may thus have a selvedge having free weft ends.

Preferably, the loom comprises a tuck-in device.

Suitably, the tuck-in device is located at the first side of the loom. Preferably, the tuck-in device is arranged to re-insert a small length of weft yarn, comprising a free end which extends beyond the width of the warp sheet at the second warp edge, such that there are no loose ends at the selvedge of the second warp edge. Suitably, the tuck-in device reinserts the free weft end after the warp sheet has been crossed at step (c) or (e) and the free end may then be trapped within the woven fabric upon the next crossing of the warp sheet. The tuck-in device may be arranged to operate according to the method employed by commercially available looms and known to those skilled in the art.

Thus, the loom may be arranged to produce a fabric having a full woven selvedge edge at a first weft edge and a tucked-in selvedge at a second weft edge. The fabric may thus be suitable for employment in kilt manufacture and have a tidy finish at both weft edges.

The loom may be arranged to produce a waste selvedge as well as the woven fabric. The waste may be arranged to hold the free ends of the weft yarns relatively taught prior to the cutting or trimming operation or the tucking in operation in order to produce a neat finish. The waste selvedge may be formed and perform a role in operations of the loom according to methods employed by commercially available looms and which are known to those skilled the art.

Suitably, the loom is arranged such that steps (a) to (e) can be repeated until the desired length of fabric is produced. Suitably, the warp sheet is set up and the loom IS arranged to select weft yarns in a particular order according to methods employed by commercially available looms and known to those skilled in the art to create a fabric having a desired pattern.

The loom may further comprise a movement sensor arranged to ensure that the excess warp yarn held by the holder is pulled out of the holder at the correct point in the weaving process. Suitably, the correct point in the process is at step (d) when the first gripper picks up the excess warp yarn and returns towards its first position.

Suitably, the sensor is arranged to signal the loom to be stopped if it does not detect movement of the excess warp yarn at the correct point in the weaving process. Thus, incorrect weaving of the fabric may be prevented.

Suitably, the sensor is activated by a timing device at a particular point in time and for a particular duration during which movement of the yarn is expected. Suitably, the sensor is a yarn sensor and may comprise a ceramic sensor bar. Suitably, the sensor is activated by sound and registers yarn movement. The sensor may be arranged such that if the loom is functioning correctly yarn must be drawn across its ceramic sensor bar at the correct point in the weaving process.

According to a second aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of manufacturing a woven fabric comprising warp and weft yarns and having a first weft edge having a full woven selvedge wherein the method employs a loom arranged to lay weft yarns into a warp sheet of yarns by forming a shed of warp yarns, in which weft yarns can be laid, and wherein the method comprises producing said full woven selvedge by: (a) drawing a length of weft yarn from a yarn supply across the width of the warp sheet of the fabric such that a portion of the weft yarn is laid within the shed and an excess is created which has a length equal to or greater than the width of the warp sheet; (b) holding the weft yarn in position such that the excess weft yarn is kept clear of the warp sheet; (c) introducing the weft yarn within the shed into the body of the fabric and crossing the warp sheet; (d) drawing the excess weft yarn across the warp sheet and laying it within the shed to create the woven selvedge; and (e) introducing the excess weft yarn laid within the shed into the body of the fabric and crossing the warp sheet.

Preferably, according to the method, in step (a) a length of weft yarn is drawn from a yarn supply to extend across the width of the warp sheet of the fabric and is continued to be drawn across the warp sheet to create an excess, having a length equal to or greater than the width of the warp sheet, extending beyond the warp sheet and such that the remainder of the length is laid within the shed, and in step (d) the excess weft yarn is drawn back across the width of the warp sheet and laid within the shed to create the woven selvedge.

Preferably, the method of the second aspect is arranged to be carried out on a loom according to the first aspect.

According to a third aspect of the present invention there is provided a woven fabric having a first weft edge having a full woven selvedge and a second weft edge having a cut or tucked-in selvedge.

Preferably, the second weft edge has a tucked-in selvedge.

Alternatively, the second weft edge may have a cut selvedge such that free ends of the weft yarns form the extreme of the second weft edge.

Preferably, the fabric has a width of between 25 and 35 inches (635mm and 889mm). Preferably, the fabric has a width of approximately 30 inches (752mm).

Suitably, the fabric comprises a tartan weave. The fabric may be arranged to be employed to manufacture kilts with the full woven selvedge being arranged from the bottom edge of the kilt.

The fabric may comprise a tucked-in edge at the second weft edge arranged to carry manufacturer information.

Methods of including such information in a tucked-in selvedge are known to those skilled in the art.

Preferably, the woven fabric of the third aspect is manufactured on a loom according to the first aspect and/or according to a method of the second aspect.

According to a fourth aspect of the present invention there is provided a kilt manufactured from a fabric according to the third aspect.

According to a fifth aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of manufacturing a loom according to the first aspect by converting a commercially available rapier loom, wherein the method comprises arranging the loom such that the warp sheet is arranged to extend across only approximately half the working width thereof, adding a holder to the loom, and reconfiguring the loom such that it operates as described in the first aspect.

Suitably, a gripper of the loom is also adapted.

Suitably, a trigger of the loom is also adapted.

For a better understanding of the invention, and to show how embodiments of the same may be carried into effect, reference will now be made, by way of example, to the accompanying diagrammatic drawings in which: Figure 1.1 is a perspective view of a loom according to the present invention; Figure 1.2 is an alternative perspective view of a loom according to the present invention) Figures 2.1 to 2.12 are a schematic representation of the operation of the loom of Figures 1.1 and 1.2i Figures 3.1 to 3.12 are a schematic representation of the operation of a reed of a loom during the loom operations illustrated by Figures 2.1 to 2. 12; Figure 4 is a perspective view of a selector region of the loom of Figures 1.1 and 1.2; Figure 5 is an enlarged perspective view of the central region of the loom of Figures 1.1 and 1.2; Figure 6 is a perspective view of a tuck-in device region of the loom of Figures 1.1 and 1.2; Figure 7 is a perspective view of the central region of the loom of Figures 1.1 and 1.2i and Figure 8 is an enlarged perspective view of a trigger and engagement member of a gripper of the loom of Figures 1.1 and 1.2.

As best illustrated by Figures 1.1 and 1.2, as well as Figures 4 to 8, a loom 100 is arranged to produce a fabric 200. The loom is arranged such that a warp sheet 210 of warp fibres 211 is arranged to extend across half of the width of the loom from a first side 101 of the loom to a central region 102 thereof. The warp sheet 210 is split into alternate strands up and down, 220 and 230 respectively, to create a shed 250 in which the weft yarn 240 is arranged to be laid. The fabric 200 has a first weft edge 201 and a second weft edge 202.

The loom 100 further comprises a first gripper 110 mounted upon a rapier (arm) 111 and arranged to travel from the first side 101 of the loom to the central region 102 thereof and a second gripper 120 mounted upon a rapier (arm) 121 and arranged to travel from a second side 103 of the loom to the central region 102 thereof. The grippers 110, 120 are arranged to carry weft yarn 240 through the shed 250. The loom 100 also comprises a reed 170 having teeth 171 and which is arranged to sweep forward through the warp sheet 210 pushing the last weft yarn 240 that has been laid inside the shed 250 to beat it into the body of the fabric 200.

In addition, the loom comprises a yarn supply 130 comprising a number of yarn spools, a selector 140 (best illustrated by Figure 4), arranged to select a weft yarn 240 from the yarn supply 130 and pass it to the first gripper 110, and a tuck-in device 180 (best illustrated by Figure 6) arranged to tuck-in free ends of the weft yarn 240 at the second weft edge 202 of the fabric 200. These features of the loom 100 are present in commercially available looms and their construction and operation is known to those skilled in the art and will not be discussed in detail herein.

The loom 100 differs from known commercially available looms in that the warp sheet 210 is arranged to extend across only half of the width of the loom 100 and the loom 100 is arranged to create a full woven selvedge at the central region 102, at the first weft edge 201 of the fabric 200. Thus, the loom 100 comprises a number of additional features. The loom is provided with a holder (best illustrated by Figure 7), a trigger 160 and the first gripper 110, although largely conventional, is provided with an engagement member 112 in order to allow it to pick up the yarn from the holder 150 when required.

The holder 150 comprises a tubular member 151 connected to a vacuum source (not shown) at one end thereof and having a funnel 152 provided at the other end thereof. Said funnel being provided with a slotted aperture 153 through which the weft yarn 240 is arranged to be drawn.

The trigger 160 is arranged to cause the engagement member 112 of the first gripper to be positioned such that it can pick the weft yarn up from the holder when required.

The loom 100 is also provided with a movement sensor 190 arranged to ensure yarn held by the holder is pulled out of the holder at the correct point in the weaving process.

If the sensor detects a problem it is arranged to cause the loom to be stopped to prevent incorrect weaving.

The operation of the loom 100 of the present invention may best be understood with reference to Figures 2.1 to 2.12.

Once the warp sheet 210 has been set up and the loom has been loaded with supply of both warp yarns 211 and weft yarns 240, weaving of a fabric may be commenced. As illustrated by Figure 2.1 the weft yarn 240 is initially presented to a first gripper 110 positioned at the first side 101 of the loom 100. The first gripper 110 picks the free end 241 of the weft yarn 240 up and moves toward the centre 102 of the loom 100. The second gripper 120 moves in unison with the first gripper 110 and travels from the second side 103 of the loom 100 to the centre 102 thereof.

As illustrated in Figure 2.2 the first and second grippers 110, 120 meet in the centre of the loom 100 and the weft yarn 240 is transferred from the first gripper 110 to the S second gripper 120.

The grippers 110, 120 then return to their respective sides of the loom 100 with the second gripper 120 gripping the free end 241 of the weft yarn 240 and drawing it towards the second side 103 of the loom 100 as shown by Figure 2.3.

As the second gripper 120 approaches the second side 103 of the loom 100 it reaches a predetermined point and is triggered to release the weft yarn 240 while the grippers 110, 120 continue to move to the sides of the loom 100.

Thus, the grippers 110, 120 have caused the weft yarn 240 to be drawn from the yarn supply 130 such that a portion 242 of the weft yarn 240 is laid within the shed 250 and an excess 243 having a length slightly greater than the width of the warp sheet 210 is created.

As shown by Figure 2.4, the excess 243 is drawn through the aperture 153 of the holder 150 by the vacuum being drawn through the holder 150 such that the excess 243 is maintained within the funnel 152 and tubular member 151 of the holder 150. Thus, the yarn 240 is kept relatively taught as illustrated at Figure 2.5 With the grippers 110, 120 clear at the sides of the loom the reed 170 sweeps forward to beat the weft yarn portion 242 that is in the warp shed 250 into the body of the fabric 200 as shown by Figure 2.6. The excess weft yarn 243 is still held by the holder 150. At this point the warp sheet 210 changes over in a conventional manner as best illustrated by Figures 3.5 and 3.6 with the strands that were raised 220 being lowered and the strands that were lowered 230 being raised.

The reed 170 returns to its original position after the beat up and the grippers 110, 120 then return to the centre of the loom 100 as illustrated by Figure 2.7. This time though, the first gripper 110 is not presented with a weft yarn 240 whilst at the first side 101 of the loom 100. Thus, the first gripper 110 travels towards the centre 102 of the loom 100 empty. When it reaches the centre 102 of the loom 100 the first gripper 110 meets the second gripper 120. However, the second gripper 120 has no part to play in this stage of the weaving process and merely travels toward the centre of the loom 100 because of the construction of the loom 100. When the first gripper 110 reaches the centre of the loom 100 it engages with the excess weft yarn 243. This is facilitated by the fact that the portion of weft yarn 242 has been beaten into the body of the fabric and the free end 241 of the yarn 240 is still held within the holder 150 such that a portion of the excess 243 lies across the path of the gripper 210.

The first gripper 110 travels under the excess 243 to reach its second position and the trigger 160 causes a jaw of the gripper to which the engagement member 112 is attached to open and elevate the engagement member 112. The engagement member 112 comprises an eyelet and as the first gripper 110

returns towards its first position and the jaw slides under the excess yarn 243 the eyelet of the engagement member 112 hooks the e,<cess yarn 243.

The grippers 110, 120 then move back towards their respective sides and the first gripper 110 has the excess weft yarn 243 which is returning towards the first side 101 of the loom 100 sliding around the eyelet of the gripper. The holder 150 retains the free end 241 of the excess yarn 243 as ir is drawn out and thus keeps a light tension on the excess yarn 243. This is best illustrated in Figure 2.8.

As illustrated in Figure 2.9 the first gripper 210 keeps moving back towards the first side of the loom 100 drawing the excess yarn 243 back through the warp sheet 210 and out of the holder 150.

As illustrated in Figure 2.10 the first gripper 210 returns to the first side 101 of the loom 100 such that it is clear of the warp shed 250.

As illustrated in Figure 2.11 the reed 170 then sweeps forward and beats the returned excess weft yarn 243 into the body of the fabric 200. As best illustrated by Figures 3.10 and 3.11 the warp is once again crossed over.

As illustrated in Figure 2.12 the first gripper 110 is provided with a weft yarn 240 once more from a yarn supply and the cycle recommences.

Thus, a fabric having a full woven selvedge at the first weft edge 201 is created. At the second weft edge 202 a selvedge is created by a tuck-in device 180. This is arranged to operate at the point when the warp is crossed over and operates in the same manner that is employed in commercially available looms and thus its operation will not be discussed in detail.

It will be readily understood that the present invention provides a viable alternative to a shuttle loom for the production of a woven fabric having a full woven selvedge.

Thus, the present invention may allow for much greater efficiency and productivity in the manufacture of such fabrics and garments produced therefrom.

Attention is directed to all papers and documents which are filed concurrently with or previous to this specification in connection with this application and which are open to public inspection with this specification, and the contents of all such papers and documents are incorporated herein by reference.

All of the features disclosed in this specification (including any accompanying claims, abstract and drawings), and/or all of the steps of any method or process so disclosed, may be combined in any combination, except combinations where at least some of such features and/or steps are mutually exclusive.

Each feature disclosed in this specification (including any accompanying claims, abstract and drawings) may be replaced by alternative features serving the same, equivalent or similar purpose, unless expressly stated otherwise. Thus, unless expressly stated otherwise, each feature disclosed is one example only of a generic series of equivalent or similar features.

The invention is not restricted to the details of the foregoing embodiment(s). The invention extends to any novel one, or any novel combination, of the features

disclosed in this specification (including any

accompanying claims, abstract and drawings), or to any novel one, or any novel combination, of the steps of any method or process so disclosed.

Claims

1. A loom arranged to produce a woven fabric comprising warp and weft yarns and having a first weft edge having a full woven selvedge, the loom being arranged to lay weft yarns into a warp sheet of yarns by forming a shed of warp yarns, in which weft yarns can be laid, and wherein the loom comprises means arranged to produce said full woven selvedge by: (a) causing a length of weft yarn to be drawn from a yarn supply across the width of the warp sheet of the fabric, such that a portion of the weft yarn is laid within the shed and an excess having a length equal to or greater than the width of the warp sheet is created; (b) holding the weft yarn in position such that the excess weft yarn is kept clear of the warp sheet; (c) causing the weft yarn laid within the shed to be introduced into the body of the fabric and then crossing the warp sheet; (d) causing the excess weft yarn to be drawn across the width of the warp sheet, such that it is laid within the shed, to create the woven selvedge; and (e) causing the excess weft yarn laid within the shed to be introduced into the body of the fabric and then crossing the warp sheet.

2. A loom according to claim 1, wherein the loom comprises means arranged in step (a) to cause a length of weft yarn to be drawn from a yarn supply to extend across the width of the warp sheet of the fabric and then to continue to be drawn across the warp sheet to create an excess, having a length equal to or greater than the width of the warp sheet, extending beyond the warp sheet and to lay the remainder of the length within the shed, and in step (d) to cause the excess weft yarn to be drawn back across the width of the warp sheet and be laid within the shed to create the woven selvedge.

3. A loom according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the excess has a length slightly greater than the width of the warp sheet.

4. A loom according to any preceding claim, wherein the loom comprises a rapier loom.

5. A loom according to any preceding claim, wherein the warp sheet is arranged to extend across half of the width of the loom.

6. A loom according to claim 5, wherein the warp sheet is arranged to lie within the half of the loom adjacent to that from which the weft yarn is initially drawn at step (a).

7. A loom according to any preceding claim, wherein the loom comprises a first gripper arranged to draw the weft yarn from a yarn supply and take the weft yarn across the width of the warp sheet.

8. A loom according to claim 7, wherein the loom comprises a second gripper arranged to take the weft yarn from the first gripper and to take it across the second half of the width of the loom.

9. A loom according to claim 8, wherein at step (a), the first gripper is arranged to travel from a first position, wherein it lies at a first side of the loom to a second position wherein it lies at the centre of the loom and the second gripper is arranged to travel between a first position, wherein it lies at the second side of the loom, lo and a second position, wherein it lies at the centre of the loom.

10. A loom according to claim 9, wherein the first gripper is arranged to carry the weft yarn from its first position to its second position and the second gripper is arranged to travel from its first position to its second position as the first gripper does so and the first gripper is arranged to then release the yarn and the second gripper is arranged to pick up the yarn and then to carry the weft yarn from its second position to its first position and the first gripper is arranged to return from its second position to its first position as the second gripper does so.

2s

11. A loom according to any preceding claim, wherein the loom is provided with holding means which, at step (b), hold the yarn in position such that the portion extending through the shed is relatively taught and the excess yarn is kept clear of the warp sheet.

12. A loom according to claim 11, wherein the holding means comprises an apparatus creating a vacuum.

13. A loom according to claim 12, wherein the holding means comprises a holder having an inlet into which air is drawn and the excess yarn is drawn through the inlet into said holder.

14. A loom according to any preceding claim, wherein the loom comprises a reed. Preferably, the loom is arranged such that, at step (c), the weft yarn within the shed is beaten into the body of the fabric by a reed and the warp lo is then crossed.

15. A loom according to any preceding claim, wherein at step (d), the first gripper is arranged to travel from its first position to its second position and pick up the excess weft yarn and return towards its first position carrying the excess weft yarn with it through the shed.

16. A loom according to claim 15, wherein the holder is arranged to continue to hold a portion of the excess yarn as the first gripper returns towards its first position such that the yarn is kept relatively taught.

17. A loom according to any preceding claim, wherein the loom comprises a trigger arranged to cause the first gripper to engage the excess weft yarn at step (d) as it begins to move back towards its first position.

18. A loom according to any preceding claim, wherein the first griper comprises an engagement member arranged to pick the excess yarn up.

19. A loom substantially as herein described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

20. A method of manufacturing a woven fabric comprising warp and weft yarns and having a first weft edge having a full woven selvedge wherein the method employs a loom arranged to lay weft yarns into a warp sheet of yarns by forming a shed of warp yarns, in which weft yarns can be laid, and wherein the method comprises producing said full lo (a) drawing a length of weft yarn from a yarn supply across the width of the warp sheet of the fabric such that a portion of the weft yarn is laid within the shed and an excess is created which has a length equal to or greater than the width of the warp sheet; (b) holding the weft yarn in position such that the excess weft yarn is kept clear of the warp sheet; (c) introducing the weft yarn within the shed into the body of the fabric and crossing the warp sheet; (d) drawing the excess weft yarn across the warp sheet and laying it within the shed to create the woven selvedge; and (e) introducing the excess weft yarn laid within the shed into the body of the fabric and crossing the warp sheet.

21. A method according to claim 20, wherein the method is arranged to be carried out on a loom according to any of claims 1 to 19.

22. A woven fabric having a first weft edge having a full woven selvedge and a second weft edge having a cut or tucked-in selvedge.

23. A kilt manufactured from a fabric according to claim 22.

24. A method of manufacturing a loom according to any of claims 1 to 19 by converting a commercially available lo rapier loom, wherein the method comprises arranging the loom such that the warp sheet is arranged to extend across only approximately half the working width thereof, adding a holder to the loom, and reconfiguring the loom such that it operates as described according to any of claims 1 to 19.