GB2398498A - Alcohol free skin care composition - Google Patents

Abstract

A skin care composition consists of an alcohol free, essentially anhydrous composition containing (i) 2 percent by weight or less of water based on the total weight of the composition, (ii) a perfume or fragrance, (iii) a silicone polyether, and (iv) a volatile cyclic siloxane or a volatile linear siloxane. Preferably, the composition is also water free. The fragrance may also contain silicone elastomers and non-volatile polysiloxanes. Fragrance formulations not containing ethanol released a more intensive fragrance compared to formulations containing ethanol.

Description

1 2398498

ALCOHOL-FREE SKIN CARE COMPOSITION

10001] This invention is related to a clear, alcohol free, skin care composition as an alternative to ethanol, in fine fragrance compositions. More specifically, the invention relates to a skin care composition free of alcohol, and containing a high molecular weight silicone polyether, for improving the skin feel with fragrance retention benefits. This invention also relates to a skin care composition in the form of a crystal clear gel, where the transparency is achieved without using a refractive index matching protocol. In addition, the compositions can be used in household and air freshening applications for their fragrance retention 1 0 characteristics.

[00021 The use of ethanol in fine fragrance compositions is still in widespread use in order to solubilize the perfuming ingredients. For this reason, most clear fine fragrance compositions currently available commercially on the market still contain ethanol, usually in an amount of 50-95 percent by weight. Other commercial clear fine fragrance compositions are in the form of water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, microemulsions, and nanoemulsions.

10003] However, most of W/O and O/W emulsions contain as a minimum of ethanol at least I up to 20 percent by weight of ethanol, and the transparency of the composition can only be achieved by matching the refractive index of the oily phase and the aqueous phase.

This protocol is sensitive to temperature change and often results in loss of clarity.

Microemulsion forms of the composition provides clear perfume compositions but require the use of large amount of a surfactant, that significantly limits the amount of fragrance that can be incorporated into the composition. Although nanoemulsions often need a lower amount of a surfactant than a microemulsion, they are generally very difficult to prepare.

10004] While US Patent 6,403,109 (June 11, 2002) describes certain transparent perfume compositions that contain lower levels of ethanol, such compositions are in the form of an emulsion, having the limitations described above. Thus, there is still a need to provide clear alcohol free fine fragrance compositions, in essentially anhydrous form that are easier to formulate, in comparison to emulsions. The compositions should also possess the ability to incorporate high amounts of perfume ingredients, with improved skin feel benefits, and long lasting fragrance effects without requiring addition of glycerin or propylene glycol to achieve transparency. In addition, there is still a need to provide such compositions in gel form for use in air freshening applications.

[00051 It has surprisingly been found that these needs can be met by providing an ethanol and/or alcohol free fine fragrance composition that includes as essential ingredients, a low molecular weight cyclic siloxane or linear volatile siloxane in combination with a high molecular weight silicone polyether. The silicone polyether allows the incorporation of high amounts of perfume ingredients. In addition, it has surprisingly been found that the presence of very low levels of water, i.e., generally 2 percent by weight or less, can modify the formulation rheology, with the result that it is possible to obtain jelly-like perfume compositions.

10006] Compositions according to the invention provide improved skin feel properties and enhanced fragrance retention benefits. The compositions may contain a number of other and optional cosmetic active ingredients such as cosmetic biocides, vitamins, sunscreen agents, antifungal agent, antimicrobial agents, W light absorbing agents, essential oils, skin protestants, insect repellents; and when used in household applications such other optional ingredients such as softening agents, organic surfactants, and air freshening components.

100071 These and other features of the invention will become apparent from a

consideration of the detailed description.

10008] The composition according to the invention contains as an essential component, a high molecular weight silicone polyether having the structure: A I i-OtSi-O l Si-Of Si A R a R b R In the above structure, R is an alkyl group containing 1-6 carbon atoms such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, and isopropyl, or an aryl group such as phenyl; A is a polyoxyalkylene group such as the group C3H6o(c2H4o)m(c3H6o)nRl; R' can be hydrogen, an acyl group, or an alkyl group containing 1-4 carbon atoms; m and n are each 5-50; a is 50-1,000, and b is 1-40.

Typically, this silicone polyether component of the composition is used in a form in which it is dispersed in a solvent such as a volatile cyclic siloxane or a low molecular weight linear siloxane. It is used in an amount to provide 1-15 parts by weight of the pure product, preferably 510 parts by weight, and more preferably 9-10 parts by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

10009] Compositions according to the invention also contain as their essential ingredients a volatile cyclic siloxane or a low molecular weight linear siloxane, a perfume ingredient, water, and various other optional ingredients as noted below.

0] Low molecular weight cyclic siloxanes and linear siloxanes are generally volatile materials and are known in the cosmetic industry under The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) names such as CYCLOMETHICONE and DIMETHICONE.

Reference may be had to the CTFA's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary. Some representative examples of the cyclic siloxanes are octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane often referred to as D4, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane often referred to as D5, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane often referred to as D6. These cyclic siloxanes generally have a degree of polymerization (DP) of 3-7. Some representative examples of low molecular weight linear siloxanes are hexamethyldisiloxane (CH3)3SiOSi(CH3)3, alkylmethylsiloxanes such as 3hexylheptamethyltrisiloxane, as well as a number of other linear low molecular weight silicone polymer fluids known as Dimethicone with DPs ranging from 3-10.

10011] The perfume ingredient can be any ingredient commonly used in the perfume industry. These compositions typically belong to a variety of chemical classes, as varied as alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, esters, ethers, acetates, nitrites, terpenic hydrocarbons, heterocyclic nitrogen or sulfur containing compounds, as well as essential oils of natural or synthetic origin. Many of these perfume ingredients are described in detail in standard textbook references such as Perfume and Flavour Chemicals, 1969, S. Arctander, Montclair, New Jersey. The perfume component is used in an amount of 0. 1-30 parts by weight based on the weight of the composition, preferably 0. 1-20 parts by weight, and more preferably 0. 1-10 parts by weight. The upper limit on the amount of perfume which can be used will generally depend on its compatibility with the cyclic siloxane or low molecular weight linear siloxane.

l0012l The composition described herein additionally may contain a limited and very low amount of water to provide a jelly-like appearance to the composition. It is typically used in an amount of 0.5-2 parts by weight based on the weight of the composition, preferably 0.5- l parts by weight. For purposes of the invention, the term essentially anhydrous is considered to mean 2 percent by weight or less of water based on the total weight of the composition.

When it is not desired to impart the jelly-like appearance, the composition is preferably water 1 0 free.

10013] Composition according to the invention may also contain a number of optional ingredients, one of which is an organopolysiloxane elastomer. Such elastomers are generally reaction products obtained by combining an organopolysiloxane having an unsaturated group bound to a terminal silicon atom and an organohydrogensiloxane, and then subjecting it to at least a partial cure. One example of a suitable elastomer is a composition known in the cosmetic industry under its INCI name of Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer or Dimethicone Crosspolyrner. Emulsions and suspension of these polysiloxane elastomers can also be used as components of the composition. Polysiloxane elastomers in the form of powders coated with different organic and inorganic materials such as mica and silica can also be used.

10014] Another optional ingredient that can be used is a non-volatile polysiloxane having the structure: R1 R1 R1 R1-fi o_si -o-si_ R1 R1 R2 n R1 wherein n has a value sufficient to provide polysiloxane polymers having a viscosity in the range of 100-10,000 mm2/sec. R1 and R2 can be alkyl radicals containing 1-20 carbon atoms or aryl groups, preferably alkyl radicals containing 1-6 carbon atoms, and more preferably methyl or phenyl groups. Typically, the value of n is 20-500, more preferably 80375. Some illustrative polysiloxane polymers include polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, polymethylethylsiloxane, polymethylphenylsiloxane, and polydiphenylsiloxane.

l0015l Alkylmethylsiloxanes represent another optional ingredient that can be used.

These siloxane polymers generally will have the formula Me3SiO[Me2SiO] y[MeRSiO]zSiMe3, in which R is a hydrocarbon group containing 6-30 carbon atoms, Me represents methyl, and the degree of polymerization (DP), i.e., the sum of y and z is 3-50. Both the volatile and liquid species of alkymethysiloxanes can be used in the composition.

100161 Silicone gums can be used as optional ingredients. Polydiorganosiloxane gums are known in the art and are available commercially. They consist of generally insoluble polydiorganosiloxanes having a viscosity in excess of 1,000,000 centistoke (mm2/s) at 25 C., preferably greater than 5,000,000 centistoke (mm2/s) at 25 C. These silicone gums are typically sold as compositions already dispersed in a suitable solvent to facilitate their handling. Ultra-high viscosity silicones can also be included as optional ingredients. These ultra-high viscosity silicones typically have a kinematic viscosity greater than 5 million centistoke (mm2/s) at 25 C, to about 20 million centistoke (mm2/s) at 25 C. Compositions of this type in the form of suspensions are most preferred, and are described for example in US Patent 6.013,682 (January 11, 2000).

[00171 Polysiloxanes classified as silicone polyamides can be used as optional ingredients, and some representative compositions of suitable silicone polyamide copolymers are set forth in detail in US Patent 5,981, 680 (November 9, 1999).

100181 Silicone resins comprise another optional ingredient. These resin compositions are generally highly crosslinked polymeric siloxanes. Crosslinking is obtained by incorporating trifunctional and/or tetratunctional silanes with the monofunctional silane and/or difunctional silane monomers used during manufacture. The degree of crosslinking required to obtain a suitable silicone resin will vary according to the specifics of the silane monomer units incorporated during manufacture of the silicone resin. In general, any silicone having a sufficient level of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units, and hence possessing sufficient levels of crosslinking to dry down to a rigid or a hard film can be considered to be suitable for use as the silicone resin.

9] In particular, the ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is typically indicative of the level of crosslinking in silicones. Silicone resins as such will generally have at least about 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom. Preferably, the ratio of oxygen to silicon atoms is at least 1.2: 1.0. Some examples of the kinds of silanes that can be used in the manufacture of suitable silicone resins are chlorosilanes containing the various monomethyl, dimethyl, monophenyl, diphenyl, methylphenyl, monovinyl, and methylvinyl units, including 1 0 tetrahalosilanes.

100201 Commercially available silicone resins suitable for applications herein are generally supplied in an unhardened form in low viscosity volatile or nonvolatile silicone fluids. The silicone resins should be incorporated into compositions of the invention in their non-hardened forms rather than as hardened resinous structures.

100211 Silicones including silicone resins in particular, can conveniently be identified according to a shorthand nomenclature system well known to those skilled in the art as MDTQ nomenclature. Under this system, the silicone is described according to presence of various siloxane monomer units which make up the silicone. Briefly, the symbol M denotes the monofunctional unit (CH3)3SiO1l2; D denotes the difunctional unit (CH3)2SiO2/2; T denotes the trifunctional unit CH3SiO3/2; and Q denotes the tetratunctional unit SiO4/2.

Primes of the unit symbols, e.g., M'. D', T', and Q', generally are used to denote substituents other than methyl, and must be specifically defined for each occurrence in a given molecule.

100221 Some examples of such alternate substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amine, and hydroxyl. The molar ratio of the various units can also be used to describe resinous materials, either in terms of subscripts of symbols indicating the total number of each type of unit in the resin or average thereof, or as specifically indicated ratios in combination with molecular weight.

10023] Generally, higher relative molar amounts of T and Q units in a silicone resin indicate higher levels of crosslinking, however as previously noted, the overall level of crosslinking can also be indicated by the oxygen to silicon atoms ratio. Silicone resins most preferred for use herein are the MQ, MT, MTQ, MQ, and MDTQ silicone resins. The preferred silicone substituent is methyl. Especially preferred silicone resins are the MQ resins wherein the M:Q molar ratio is 0.5:1.0 to 1.5: 1. 0, and wherein the average molecular weight ofthe silicone resin is 1,00010,000.

100241 Other useful optional components which can be included in the compositions of the invention are preservatives, vitamins, botanicals and/or plant extracts, sunscreen agents, emollients, occlusive agents, and esters. The composition according to the invention can further contain an oil or oily component. The term oil as used herein refers to any material that is substantially insoluble in water, and which is generally compatible with any low molecular weight silicone species present in the composition. When the composition is to be used in a cosmetic or personal care product, the product components must also be cosmetically acceptable, or otherwise meet the conditions of the end use of the product.

5] Some example of suitable oil components include natural oils such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol; esters such as C12 to C15 alkyl benzoates; diesters such as propylene dipelargonate; and triesters such as glyceryl trioctanoate. Low viscosity oils can also be used such as those oils having a viscosity of 5-100 mPa.s at 25 C, generally consisting of esters having a structure such as RCO-OR' wherein RCO represents a carboxylic acid radical and OR' is an alcohol residue.

6] Some examples of low viscosity oils include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, cocodicaprylate/caprate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyl myristate, octododecanol and mixtures of octyldodecanol, Caprylic/ Capric triglycerides, isododecanol, soybean oil, sunflower oil, wheat and/or cereal germ oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, olive oil, palm oil, calophyllum, and castor oil.

10027] The composition according to the invention can include a sunscreen as an optional ingredient. These sunscreens include those compositions which absorb ultraviolet light between 290-320 nanometers, i.e., the W-B region, such as para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives and cinnamates such as octyl methoxy cinnamate; and those compositions which absorb ultraviolet light in the range of 320-400 nanometer, i.e., the UV-A region, such as benzophenone and butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, and hydrophilic compositions such as benzylidine-2-camphor sulphonic acid derivatives.

8] If desired, the composition according to the invention can contain glitters such as borosilicate derivatives, titanium dioxide, mica, and blends of such pigments. Composition according to the invention may further contains liposoluble colorants such as D&C Green 6, D&C green 8, D&C Red 17, D&C Orange 5, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C orange 10, D&C Violet 2, and D&C Yellow 11. The addition of an ester is typically necessary to aid in the solubilization of the colorant into the composition. In addition to the glitters and colorants, the composition can also contain any other ingredient having the purpose of changing the appearance of a clear gel.

10029] The skin care compositions of the invention may be in the form of a gel, a freely pourable liquid, and a sprayable liquid. The skin care compositions can be used on the skin of humans or animals to perfume and to improve skin feel. The skin care compositions can be used by applying them to skin using sprays, wipes, or applying by hand, and/or rubbing the compositions into the skin. The compositions can be prepared by simply mixing all of the essential and optional ingredients together and stirring them thoroughly.

0] The skin care compositions are used in a conventional manner for perfuming and/or conditioning skin, and an effective amount of the composition for the intended purpose is applied to the skin. The effective amount is generally 1-3 mg/cm2. Once applied, the composition is typically rubbed or worked into the skin. The application can be repeated as many times as desired to achieve the desired benefit. In addition, the composition can be applied to hair and to textiles in the form of a spray. The compositions can also be used in special devices such as air fresheners for homes, automobiles, and other closed environments.

1] As previously noted, the invention is based on the unexpected discovery that the inclusion of a high molecular weight silicone polyether in personal care compositions can provide novel properties to skin care compositions. For example, fine fragrances containing silicone polyethers are capable of imparting certain characteristics absent from fragrances without silicone polyethers, such as the ability to manufacture clear, alcohol free, liquid or gel-like compositions with a high level of fragrance in the composition, an improvement in skin feel properties, and the provision of long lasting fragrance effect.

EXAMPLES

2] The following examples are set forth in order to illustrate the invention in more detail.

Example 1

3] Three fine fragrance compositions was prepared by combining the ingredient shown in Table 1 using conventional mixing techniques. During preparation, it was noted that in order to maintain a transparent fragrance composition compatible in D5 cyclopentasiloxane, transparency of the composition could be maintained at a level of 20 percent by weight of the fragrance and less. For obtaining a transparent fragrance not compatible in cyclopentasiloxane, the composition was transparent at a level of 10 percent by weight of the fragrance and less.

4] The compositions were prepared by mixing the ingredients together, except water, at 900-1,000 rpm, until the system was completely homogeneous. While stirring, water was added drop by drop. When the system began to become cloudy, the addition of water was stopped until it became clear again. This step was repeated until the addition of water was complete. The Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone silicone polyether composition contained an alkoxylated derivative of Dimethicone polysiloxane having an average of 19 moles of ethylene oxide and 19 moles of propylene oxide in the molecule.

Table 1

Ingredient Formulation A Formulation B Formulation C % by Weight % by Weight % by Weight Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG 20 20 20 19/19 Dimethicone (silicone polyether) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) 73 68 58 Deionized Water 2 2 2 Fragrance 10 20

Example 2

[00351 In this example, Phase A ingredients shown in Table 2 were mixed under sufficient agitation to obtain a homogeneous mixture. Phase B was added to Phase A very slowly with turbulent mixing at about 1,300 rpm. Mixing was continued for 10-30 minutes at the same speed. There was then added 1-2 drops of D&C Violet 2 dispersed in a C12-C15 alkylbenzoate in order to mask the yellow color due to the fragrance.

Table 2

Phase Ingredients Weight % A Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone 20 (silicone polyether) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) 47 Dimethicone (and) Trisiloxane (octamethyltrisiloxane) 20 Fragrance 10 Deionised water 3

Example 3

l0036l In this example, the silicone polyether and D5 cyclopentasiloxane ingredient was mixed with the other ingredients shown in Table 3 until a clear gel was formed. The silicone elastomer suspension was added to the blend and mixed.

Table 3

Ingredient Formulation Percent by Weight Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG19/19 Dimethicone 20 (silicone polyether) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) 65 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) C12-14 Pareth-12 10 (silicone elastomer) Fragrance 5 Example 4 - Skin Feel Properties [00371 Sensory testing for evaluating the skin feel attributes was performed on Formulation B shown in Table 1, and on the same formulation containing 58 percent by weight of ethanol. An experienced sensory panel consisting of ten volunteers performed the testing. The panel members applied about 0.02 gram of the composition being evaluated on their forearm in an area covering about 4 x 5 centimeter of skin surface.

8] The attributes of the composition were evaluated immediately after rub-in before the composition had been absorbed, and again 3 minutes later when the product had absorbed on the skin. During application, Formulation B of Table 1 provided a better spreadability, and it was significantly less tacky. The after feel of Formulation B of Table 1 was smoother and silkier than the same Formulation containing ethanol.

Example 5 - Fragrance Retention Properties [00391 The same trained sensory panel consisting of 10 panelists using the following procedure performed fragrance testing. To test the sustained fragrance release from Formulation B of Table 1, and the same Formulation with 58 percent ethanol, about 0.02 gram of each composition was applied on the forearm to a 4 x 5 centimeter skin surface. The long lasting fragrance parameter of each formulation was evaluated over periods of time of minutes, two hours, four hours, and six hours. A rating scale of 1-10 was used to indicate the intensity of released fragrance with I being the least intensity and 10 being the most intensity. The results of the evaluations are shown in Table 5.

Table 5

Area Applied Formulation Average Evaluation of 10 Selected Trained Panelists, Applied Time Following Application Minutes 2 Hours 4 Hours 6 Hours Left forearm B - Example 1 Right forearm B - With Ethanol 2 1 [0040] A significant difference was observed on the forearms of the panelists. After 6 hours, the formulation not containing ethanol released a more intensive fragrance compared to the same formulation containing ethanol.

10041] Other variations may be made in compounds, compositions, and methods described herein without departing from the essential features of the invention. The embodiments of the invention specifically illustrated herein are exemplary only and not intended as limitations on their scope except as defined in the appended claims.

Claims (8)

1. A skin care composition comprising an alcohol free, essentially anhydrous composition containing (i) 2 percent by weight or less of water based on the total weight of the composition, (ii) a perfume or fragrance, (iii) a silicone polyether, and (iv) a volatile cyclic siloxane or a volatile linear siloxane.

2. A skin care composition according to Claim 1 in which the composition is water free.

3. A skin care composition according to Claims 1 or 2 in which the silicone polyether has the structure:

R R R R

A I i Of- I i O--- I i O -I i A

R R R

wherein R is an alkyl group containing 1-6 carbon atoms or an aryl group; A is a polyoxyalkylene group of the formula -c3H6o(c2H4o)m(c3H6o)nR; R is hydrogen, an acyl group, or an alkyl group containing 1-4 carbon atoms; m and n are each 5-50; a is 50-1,000, and b is 1-40.

4. A skin care composition according to Claim 3 further comprising an organopolysiloxane elastomer.

5. A skin care composition according to Claim 3 further comprising a non volatile polysiloxane having the structure: R1 R1 R1 R1 Si--O-Si--O-Si-R1 R1 R2 n R1 wherein n has a value sufficient to provide a polysiloxane polymer having a viscosity of 100-10,000 mm2/sec; R1 and R2 are alkyl radicals containing 1- carbon atoms or aryl groups; and n is 20-500.

6. A skin care composition according to any of the preceding Claims 1-5 further comprising an alkylmethylsiloxane polymer, a silicone gum, an ultra-high viscosity silicone having a kinematic viscosity greater than 5 million centistoke (mm2/s) to 20 million centistoke, a silicone polyamide, or a silicone resin.

7. A skin care composition according to any of the preceding Claims 1-6 further comprising a cosmetic biocide, vitamin, sunscreen agent, antifungal agent, antimicrobial agent, W light absorbing agent, essential oil, skin protestant, insect repellent, a colorant, a glittering agent, or softening agent.

8. A method of treating the skin comprising applying to the skin a composition according to any of the preceding Claims 1-7.