GB2331528A - Hair styling formulation - Google Patents

Hair styling formulation Download PDF

Info

Publication number
GB2331528A
GB2331528A GB9724580A GB9724580A GB2331528A GB 2331528 A GB2331528 A GB 2331528A GB 9724580 A GB9724580 A GB 9724580A GB 9724580 A GB9724580 A GB 9724580A GB 2331528 A GB2331528 A GB 2331528A
Authority
GB
United Kingdom
Prior art keywords
hair
composition
acid
serine
hair styling
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
GB9724580A
Other versions
GB2331528B (en
GB9724580D0 (en
Inventor
Serge Aime Patrick Coupe
Walter Thomas Gibson
Paul Oliver Raynaud-Lacroze
Gillian E Westgate
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Unilever PLC
Original Assignee
Unilever PLC
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Unilever PLC filed Critical Unilever PLC
Priority to GB9724580A priority Critical patent/GB2331528B/en
Publication of GB9724580D0 publication Critical patent/GB9724580D0/en
Priority to IN695BO1998 priority patent/IN190687B/en
Priority to ES9802413A priority patent/ES2142292B1/en
Priority to DE1998153215 priority patent/DE19853215A1/en
Priority to BR9804715A priority patent/BR9804715A/en
Priority to ITTO980975 priority patent/IT1305195B1/en
Priority to FR9814549A priority patent/FR2771289B1/en
Priority to ARP980105866 priority patent/AR017642A1/en
Priority to IN802BO1998 priority patent/IN191357B/en
Publication of GB2331528A publication Critical patent/GB2331528A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of GB2331528B publication Critical patent/GB2331528B/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/736Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8176Homopolymers of N-vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Compositions containing amino acid precursors of natural hair ceramides are used for enhancing physical properties of the hair fibre such as shine, smoothness, manageability, softness and cuticle integrity. The most preferred ceramide precursor is L-serine. The composition also contains a hair styling resin, a solvent or carrier, and one or more auxiliary lipid components, such as phospholipids and/or free fatty acids.

Description

2331528 - 1 HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITION
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to hair treatment compositions, in particular hair styling compositions, containing precursors of natural hair ceramides, and the use of the compositions for enhancing physical properties of the hair fibre such as in particular shine, smoothness, manageability, softness and cuticle integrity.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Lipids are important components of the hair structure, being responsible for cuticular or corticular cell-to-cell cohesion.
The lipids are present at the fibre surface, bound to the surface membrane and in the cell membrane complex, and are believed to contribute to fibre shine, smoothness, manageability, softness, protection, lubrication and cuticl integrity.
Lipids are lost from fibres due to physical and chemical damage incurred inter alia through washing, harsh styling treatments and weathering. This in turn reduces the natural capabilities of the structure to resist mechanical damage and raises the potential for further damage to the hair, causing it to become dull, lifeless and brittle and ultimately provoking breakage and formation of split-ends.
Ceramides are believed to be particularly important components in the lipid profile of the hair, and have already been proposed in hair treatment compositions.
EP 278 505 A (Estee Lauder) describes a hair protection composition, such as a shampoo or conditioner, containing a ceramide and a cholesterol derivative.
EP 739 625 A (L'Oreal) describes a composition for cleaning and treating hair containing anionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, cationic polymer and ceramide.
JP - A - 63/243,016 (Kanebo) lists oily hair tonic and scalp 10 treatment f ormulations containing ceramidp.
WO 97 15274 Al (L'Oreal) describes cosmetic compositions containing hair fixing polymer and ceramide. The compositions are said to protect hair against breakage, a common problem encountered when styling with hair fixing polymers, due to the brushing/combing force required to detangle and restyle polymer-coated hair fibres.
Exogenous application of free ceramide via hair treatment compositions as described above has several disadvantages. Firstly, there is the cost of extraction of the materials from natural sources or chemical synthesis. Secondly, ceramides as a class of molecule are highly hydrophobic and occlusive and therefore difficult to formulate into hair treatment products.
Moreover, free ceramides supplied exogenously do not become integral and strongly bound to the fibre, in contrast to the natural ones which are only extractable from the fibre by alkaline hydrolysis.
We have now found that cultured hair follicles can synthesise natural hair cerainides if supplied with certain specific amino acid nutrients which are precursors for ceramide biosynthesis.
Amino acids are known to be important for the nourishment of the human hair root and the growth of human hair.
3 - GB 1 401 089 describes hair treatment compositions containing natural amino acids or protein hydrolyates. Particularly preferred are glycine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, lysine, serine and alanine, for the reason that these amino acids are naturally found combined, in the form of polypeptides, in the substances collagen and keratin which occur as structural components of human skin and hair. A shampoo composition is described which incorporates protein hydrolysates resulting from the complete hydrolysis of collagen.
EP 0 186 025 discloses cosmetic preparations for care of skin and hair with a hydrolysate of almond protein. Almond protein is characterised by a high content of acidic and basic amino acids and contains 40-50 wt% glutamic acid, aspartic acid and arginine.
W097/01322 describes hair care components with at least one mconditioner selected from one or more particular amino acids (l,nLez ali serine, tyrosine and lysine). The aconditioner" is said to penetrate into the treated hair and stabilise the hair structure, particularly where there has been damage to the hair.
Numerous publications describe the use of an array of amino acids, often in "cocktail" form, in lotions or tonics for topical application to cure baldness and other skin, scalp and hair disorders. Examples of such disclosures are JP 59/007,111 which relates to a hair cosmetic with dandruff-preventing properties containing vitamin E acetate and methionine, CA 888,689 which describes hair and scalp preparations for normalisation of scalp secretions and promotion of hair growth which may contain, inter alia, cysteine and methionine in a base incorporating bergamot oil and nonionic emulsifier, and WO 92/00720 which describes a composition containing L- 1 -1 - 4 leucine, L-isoleucine and L-valine, said to stimulate growth and regeneration of hair and nails.
The prior art discussed above does not address the biosynthesis of natural hair ceramides in hair follicles.
SUMMARY OF THE IbMNTION
In a first aspect, the present invention provides a hair styling formulation for the supply of precursors of natural hair ceramides to the hair follicle comprising:
(i) a ceramide precursor which is an amino acid selected from serine and analogs and/or derivatives thereof, which precursor is present at levels of from 0.01 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, and from 20% to 100% by weight based on the total weight of amino acids present in the composition; (ii) from 0.5 % to 10 % of a hair styling resin; (iii) a cosmetically acceptable solvent or carrier; (iv) from 0% to 50% of an aerosol propellant; and (v) at least one auxiliary lipid component selected from phospholipids, free fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
1-1 In a second aspect, the invention provides the use of an amino acid selected from serine and analogs and/or derivatives thereof as a ceramide precursor in a hair treatment composition, preferably a hair styling composition, for enhancing at least one of the following hair surface properties: shine, smoothness, manageability, softness and cuticle integrity. Preferably the amino acid is used in - conjunction with at least one auxiliary lipid component as defined above.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
Amino Acid Ceramide Precur = L-Serine is the most preferred amino acid (i) for compositions of the invention. It is thought, whilst not wishing to be bound by any theory, that this is the most direct precursor for ceramide synthesis in the hair follicle, forming the obackboneff of the ceramide molecule. Some proposed biochemical pathways have been given in the literature but are not yet well elucidated.
Simple derivatives of the amino acid (i) may be employed, such as salts and hydrosalts. It is further possible to employ other derivatives such as acyl, ester and peptide derivatives. These too may be used as salts or hydrosalts.
Examples are N-alkanoyl derivatives in which the alkanoyl moiety has an alkyl chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, e.g. N-butanoyl, Nhexanoyl and N-octanoyl, N-alkyl or Cooalkyl derivatives in which the alkyl group is straight chain and from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, e.g. methyl, ethyl and n-propyl and peptide derivatives in which the peptide residue comprises from 2 to 8 amino acid residues or substituted amino acid residues.
Mixtures of amino acids may be used, such as may be obtained from a protein hydrolysate. However, such a mixture must be judiciously selected to ensure that from 20% to 100% by weight based on the total weight of amino acids present in the resultant composition is constituted by one or a mixture of the specific amino acids (i).
Preferably, from 90% to 100% by weight based on the total weight of amino acids present in the resultant composition is constituted by one or a mixture of the specific amino acids (i).
The total amount of amino acid (i) in the compositions of the invention ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.02% to 5%, most preferably from 0.05% to 2%.
Hair Stv1incr Resin The hair styling resins employed in compositions of the present invention should be capable of forming a film and holding the hair of the user in place after evaporation of the volatile components of the hair styling composition.
Hair styling resins are well known articles of commerce and many such resinous polymers are available commercially which contain moieties which render the polymers cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic in nature. To provide optimum sprayability in spray-type formulations such as hairsprays, pumpsprays and mousses, the polymers employed typically range in number average molecular weight of from 5,000 to 100,000 with 10,000 to 50,000 being more preferred.
For pump spray use, hair styling resins in the range of number average molecular weight 10,000 to 50,000 are typically employed.
The amount of the resin may range from 0.5 to 10%, preferably 1.5 to 6% by weight of the hair styling composition.
Examples of anionic hair styling resins are the copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, terpolymers of vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and a vinyl ester of an alphabranched saturated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid such as vinyl neodecanoate; copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride (molar ratio about 1:1) wherein such copolymers are 50% esterified with a saturated alcohol containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol or butanol; and acrylic copolymers, terpolymers, etc., containing acrylic acid or methacrylic acid as the anionic radical-containing moiety and esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid with one or more saturated alcohols having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms such as methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl acrylate, t-butyl acrylate, t-butyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, nhexyl acrylate, n-octyl acrylate, lauryl methacrylate and behenyl acrylate, glycols having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms such as hydroxypropyl methacrylate and hydroxyethyl acrylate, styrene, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl acetate, acrylamide, alkyl acrylamides and methacrylamides having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group such as methacrylamide, t-butyl acrylamide and n-octyl acrylamide, and other compatible unsaturated monomers. One specific example is the emulsion polymerised terpolymer of methacrylic acid, nbutyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate (e.g., in a weight percent ratio of 31:42:27, respectively). Another specific example is Ultraholdo 8 (CTFA-Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association designation of Acrylate/Acrylamide Copolymer).
Amphoteric polymers which can contain cationic groups derived from monomers such as t-butyl aminoethyl methacrylate as well as carboxyl groups derived from monomers such as acrylic acid or methacrylic acid can also be used in the present invention. one specific example of - 8 an amphoteric hair styling resin is Amphomer@sold by the National Starch and Chemical Corporation.
Examples of nonionic hair styling resins are homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers of N-vinylformamide, and copolymers of Nvinylpyrrolidone with compatible nonionic monomers such as vinyl acetate and terpolymers of ethyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate and methyl methacrylate. Nonionic polymers containing N-vinylpyrrolidone in various weight average molecular weights are available commercially from ISP Corporation such as homopolymers of Nvinylpyrroldone having an average molecular weight of about 630,000 sold by ISP (formerly GAF Corporation) under the tradenarne PVP K-90 and those having an average molecular weight of about 1,000,000 sold under the trademark of PVP K- 120.
Examples of cationic hair styling resins are copolymers of aminofunctional acrylate monomers such as lower alkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomers such as dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with compatible monomers such N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl caprolactam, or alkyl methacrylates such as methyl methacrylate and ethyl methacrylate and alkyl acrylates such as ethyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate. Cationic polymers containing N vinylpyrrolidone are commercially available from ISP Corporation such as those sold under the trademarks of Copolymer 845 and Copolymer 937 (copolymers of N vinylpyrrolidone and t-butylaminoethyl methacrylate of average molecular weight about 1,000,000) and GafquatO 755 and 755N (quaternary ammonium polymers formed by the reaction of dimethyl sulfate and a copolymer of N vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate of average molecular weight about 1,000,000).
9 - with certain of the resins it may be necessary to neutralise some acidic groups to promote solubility/dispersibility. Examples of suitable neutralising agents include 2-amino-2 methyl-l, 3propanediol (AMPD); 2amino-2-ethyl-l, 3propanediol (AEPD); 2-amino2-methyl-l-propanol (AMP); 2amino-l-butanol (AB); monoethanolamine (MEA); diethanolamine (DEA); triethanolamine (TEA); monoisopropanolamine (MIPA); diisopropanol-amine (DIPA); triisopropanolamine (TIPA); dimethyl stearamine (DMS). If the hair styling resin contains carboxyl groups, a long chain amine neutralising agent such as lauramidopropyl dimethylamine may be employed, as is described in US 4, 874,604 Amounts of the neutralising agents will range from about 0.001 to about 10% by weight of the composition.
Solvent or Carrier The compositions of the invention comprise a cosmetically acceptable solvent or carrier, which is preferably present in an amount of from 0.1% to 99% by weight of the composition. The term cosmetically acceptable solvent or carrier is used herein to describe a vehicle to carry or support the ingredients of the compositions which are to be applied to the desired surface, namely, the hair.
Water is a useful solvent or carrier in compositions of the invention, either alone or in admixture with other solvents or carriers. The solvent or carrier may be of varying degrees of viscosity, depending on intended product form, and may include aqueous or non-aqueous carriers to which a gelling agent may be optionally added to give an aqueous or non-aqueous gel.
In formulations where the solvent or carrier comprises an aqueous gel, suitable gelling agents include:
- carboxy vinyl polymers, such as those available from B F Goodrich Chemical Company under the trade name CARBOPOL; sodium magnesium silicate (available under the trade name LAPONITE from Laporte Industries); gel-forming gums such as xanthan gum, guar gum, carrageenan gum, locust bean gum and cellulose gum.
other suitable carriers are volatile silicones, such as cyclomethicone, and short chain alcohols such as ethanol.
Product Form 1 i Hair styling compositions of the present invention can be formulated as sprays in aerosol or nonaerosol forms, and so can be dispensed from containers which are propellant charged aerosol containers, or alternatively pump spray containers operated without any propellant. Alternatively, styling gel or mousse product forms may be employed.
When the hair styling compositions are to be dispensed from a pressurised aerosol container, an aerosol propellant must be included in the composition. This agent is responsible for expelling the other materials from the container and forming the hair spray or mousse character.
The propellant gas can be any liquefiable gas conventionally used for aerosol containers. Preferably the density of the propellant or mixture thereof is less than the hair styling concentrate so that pure propellant is not emitted from the container. Examples of suitable propellants include dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane and isobutane, used singly 11 or admixed. other examples of propellants are nitrogen, carbon dioxide and compressed air.
The amount of the propellant gases is governed by normal factors well known in the aerosol art. For hair stylings the level of propellant is generally from about 3 to about 50%, preferably from about 5 to about 45%, optimally about 35 to 45% of the total composition.
Auxiliary LilDid ComDonent Compositions of the invention also include as an ingredient at least one auxiliary lipid component selected from phospholipids, free fatty acids and mixtures thereof. In this way, the hair fibre may be supplemented topically with exogenous lipid sourced from the composition, thus complementing the natural root action of the ceramide precursor in the composition, which, as we have found, is "built ino to natural hair ceramides by biosynthetic 20 pathways in the hair follicle.
Particularly preferred auxiliary lipid components include:
natural phospholipids, such as lecithin; biomimetic phospholipids, such as PHOSPHOLIPID EFA (linoleamidopropyl phosphatidyl PG-dimonium chloride) and PHOSPHOLIPID PTC (cocamidopropyl phosphatidyl PG-dimonium chloride), both ex Mona Industries, Inc; mixtures of phospholipids, such as the material CERAMAX sold by Quest; Suitable examples of free fatty acids include branched chain 35 fatty acids such as 18-methyleicosanoic acid, and other - 12 homologues of this series, straight chain fatty acids such as stearic, myristic and palmitic acids, and unsaturated fatty-,acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Particularly preferred are those fatty acids which occur naturally as essential, integral components of the hair fibre, and which therefore may need replenishing due to fibre damage and loss. The fatty acids may be added singly, as mixtures, or in the form of blends derived from extracts of e.g. lanolin. Most preferred are the straight chain fatty acids stearic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid and palmitic acid. These have been found to impart good damage protection to the hair fibre. A most preferred branched chain fatty acid is 18- methyleicosanoic acid, which has been implicated in the maintenance of fibre condition and cuticle integrity.
Mixtures of any of the above auxiliary lipid components may also be used. Such components are typically used individually at a level of from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.005% to 5%, by weight of the composition.
QiDtionQl Ingredients Compositions of this invention may contain any other ingredient normally used in hair styling formulations.. These other ingredients may include emulsifiers such as anionic or nonionic surfactants, silicones, viscosity modifiers, preservatives, colouring agents, chelating agents such as EDTA, antioxidants, fragrances, antimicrobials and sunscreens. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount effective to accomplish its purpose. Generally these optional ingredients are included individually at a level of up to about 5% by weight of the total composition.
13 - Preferably, compositions of this invention also contain adjuvants suitable for hair care. Generally such ingredients are i_ncluded individually at a level of up to 2%, preferably up to 1%, by weight of the total composition.
Among suitable hair care adjuvants, are:
(i) natural hair root nutrients, such as amino acids and sugars. Examples of suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, serine and valine, and/or precursors and derivatives thereof. The amino acids may be added singly, in mixtures, or in the form of peptides, e.g. di- and tripeptides. The amino acids may also be added in the form of a protein hydrolysate, such as a keratin or collagen hydrolysate. Suitable sugars are glucose, dextrose and fructose. These may be added singly or in the form of, e.g. fruit extracts. A particularly preferred combination of natural hair root nutrients for inclusion in compositions of the invention is isoleucine and glucose. A particularly preferred amino acid nutrient is arginine.
hair fibre benefit agents. Examples are:
- ceramides, for moisturising the fibre and maintaining cuticle integrity. Ceramides are available by extraction from natural sources, or as synthetic ceramides and pseudoceramides. A preferred ceramide is Ceramide II, ex Quest. Mixtures of ceramides may also be suitable, such as 30 Ceramides LS, ex Laboratoires Serobiologiques.
Mode of Us The compositions of the invention are primarily intended for 35 topical application to the hair and/or scalp of a human i subject to iniprove hair fibre surface properties such as smoothness, softness, manageability, cuticle integrity, and, in pa;ticular shine.
Accordingly, the invention also provides the use of an amino acid selected from serine and analogs and/or derivatives thereof as a ceramide precursor in a hair treatment composition, preferably a hair styling composition, enhancing at least one of the following hair surface properties: shine, smoothness, manageability, softness and cuticle integrity.
Preferably the amino acid precursor is used in the composition in conjunction with one or more auxiliary lipid components, 15 such as are described above.
The invention will now be further illustrated by the following, nonlimiting Exairples.
EXAMPLE-1
DQMonstration of incorporation of serine intQ ceramides by human hair follicl!es in vitro Human hair follicles were isolated by the method of Philpott et al (1990, J Cell Sci 97:463470) and cultured in the presence of radiolabelled serine. The follicles were incubated for 2 days at 370C, 5% CO. in air and >95% humidity.
At the end of the total incubation period, the lipid content of the follicles was extracted and analysed.
The results showed clearly that the major labelled species was ceramides and monoglycerides. To determine the amount of radiolabel incorporated into ceramide the monoglycerides were - hydrolysed to fatty acids and the ceramides isolated using mini NF bonded columns.
The bound lipid from the hair was also extracted, separated and analysed. The ceramides from the hair fibre were also labelled with radiolabelled serine.
EXAMPLES 2 AND 3 The following Examples illustrate hairspray formulations according to the present invention.
CHEMICAL NAME TRADE NAME SUPPLIER EX.2 (wt%) EX.3 (wt%) Octylacrylamide/acrylates/ Amphomer (28-4910) National Starch 2.000 2.400 bUtylaminoethyl methacrylate polymer Amino Methyl Propanol AMP (95%) 0.346 0.415 Dimethicone Silwat L7602 OSI Specialities 0.100 0.100 Dimethicone Silicone DC 200 10 cps Dow Corning 0.100 0.100 Polysorbate 20 Tween 20 ICI 0.260 0.260 Perfume 0.250- 0.250 Polyvinyl pirrolidone PVP K90 BASF 0.050 0.050 Phospholipids Ceramax Quest 0.00065 0.00065 L-Serine chlorohydrate L-Serine Kiowa 0.00065 0.00065 Demin.Water 2.000 2.000 Butane 35.000 j5.000 Ethanol 960 59.893 59.424 1 all 1 EXAMPLES 4 AND 5 The following Examples illustrate hair styling gel formulations according to the present invention CheMical Name Trade Name Supplier Ex4 (wt%) EX.5 (Wt%) Carbomer 940 Carbopol 940 Goodrich 0.300 0.300 Triethanolamine TEA 0.340 0.340 PVP/VA Copolymer PVP/VA 64 BASF 3.200 Polyvinyl Formamide PVF Polymer National Starch 3.000 Tetrasodium EDTA Tetrasodium EDTA 0.100 0.100 Polisorbate 20 Tween 20 ICI 0.400 0.400 Dimethicone copolyol DC 193 Dow Corning 0.500 0.500 Dimethicone copolyol. SILICONE Q2 5097 Dow Corning 0.060 0.060 Phospholipids Ceramax Quest 0.001 0.001 L-Serine monochlorohydrate L-Serine Kiowa 0.001 0.001 Perfume 0.250 0.250 Propylene Glycol Propylene Glycol Dow 5.000 5.000 Methyl Paraben Nipagina Nipa Labs 0.200 0.200 Phenox ethanol Phenox ethanol Nipa Labs 0.400 0.400 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil CREMOPHOR RH 410 BASF 0.400 0.400 Demin Water 88.848 89.048 EMPLES 6 AND 7 The following Examples illustrate hair styling spray gel formulations according to the present invention.
Chemical Name Trade Nam Supplier Ex.6 (wt%) RX.7 (wt%) Carbomer 950 Carbopol 940 Goodrich 0.188 0.188 Triethanolamine TEA 0.120 0.120 PVP/VA Copolymer PVP/VA 64 BASF 3.800 Polyvinyl Formamide PVF Polymer National Starch 3.500 Tetrasodium EDTA Tetrasodium EDTA 0.100 0.100 Polisorbate 20 Tween 20 ICI 0.400 0.400 DC193 Dow Corning 0.500 0.500 SILICONE Q2 5097 Dow Corning 0.060 0.060 Phospholipids Ceramax Quest 0.001 0.001 L-Serine monochlorohydrate L-Serine Kiowa 0.001 0.001 Perfume 0.250 0.250 Propylene Glycol Propylene Glycol 5.000 5.000 Methyl Paraben Nipagina Nipa Labs 0.200 0.200 Phenox ethanol Phenox ethanol Nipa Labs 0.400 0.400 PEG-40 hydrogenated Castor oil CREMOPHOR RH 410 BASF 0.400 0.400 Demin. Water 88.580 88.88 1 m EXAMPLES 8 AND 9 The following Examples illustrate hair styling mousse formulations according to the present invention.
Chemical Name Trade Name Supplier EX.8 (Wt%) Ex.9 (wt%) Chitosan PCA Kytamer PC Amerchol 0.759 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Dehyton KE Henkel 0.736 0.736 PVP/VA Copolymer Luviskol VA64E (50%) BASF 6.992 Polyquaternium-16 Luviquat FC550 (40%) BASF 2.5024 Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride Arquad 16/50 (50%) Henkel 0.0828 Polysorbate Tween 20 ICI 0.368 0.3255 Phenoxyethanol 0.368 0.368 Dimethicone copolyol Sil Q25097 Dow Corning 0.0598 0.0598 Dimethicone copolyol DC 193 Dow Corning 0.2024 Ethanol 6.21 3.128 Perfume 0.25 0.25 Phospholipids Ceramax Quest 0.001 0.001 L-Serine L-Serine Kiowa 0.001 0.001 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Cremophor RH410 BASF 0.368 0.368 Demin. Water Local 82.6768 77.1855

Claims (4)

CLAIMS 1. A'_hair styling formulation for the supply of precursors of natural hair ceramides to the hair follicle comprising: (i) a ceramide precursor which is an amino acid selected from serine and analogs and/or derivatives thereof, which precursor is present at levels of from 0.01 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, and from 20% to 100% by weight based on the total weight of amino acids present in the composition; (ii) from 0.5 % to 10 % of a hair styling resin; (iii) a cosmetically acceptable solvent or carrier; (iv) from 0% to 50% of an aerosol propellant; and (v) at least one auxiliary lipid component selected from the group consisting of phospholipids, free fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
1 1
2. A composition according to claim 1, in which the auxiliary lipid component is selected from the group consisting of stearic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, 18-methyleicosanoic acid and mixtures thereof.
3. The use of an amino acid selected from serine and analogs and/or derivatives thereof as a ceramide precursor in a hair treatment composition, preferably a hair styling composition, for enhancing at least one of the following hair surface properties: shine, smoothness, manageability, softness and cuticle integrity.
21 -
4. The use according to claim 3, in which the hair treatment composition further comprises at least one auxiliary lipid component as defined in claim 1.
GB9724580A 1997-11-20 1997-11-20 Hair treatment composition Expired - Fee Related GB2331528B (en)

Priority Applications (9)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB9724580A GB2331528B (en) 1997-11-20 1997-11-20 Hair treatment composition
IN695BO1998 IN190687B (en) 1997-11-20 1998-11-02
ES9802413A ES2142292B1 (en) 1997-11-20 1998-11-17 HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITION.
DE1998153215 DE19853215A1 (en) 1997-11-20 1998-11-18 Hair treatment products
FR9814549A FR2771289B1 (en) 1997-11-20 1998-11-19 ABASE HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITION OF CERAMIDE PRECURSORS
ITTO980975 IT1305195B1 (en) 1997-11-20 1998-11-19 HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITION.
BR9804715A BR9804715A (en) 1997-11-20 1998-11-19 hair styling formulation for the supply of natural hair ceramide precursors to the hair follicle and use of an amino acid selected from serine and analogs and / or derivatives thereof
ARP980105866 AR017642A1 (en) 1997-11-20 1998-11-19 A COMPOSITION FOR HAIR STYLING FOR THE SUPPLY OF HAIR NATURAL CERAMIDES PRECURSORS TO THE CAPILLARY FOLICLE AND USE OF SELECTED SERINE UNAMINOACIDE AND ITS ANALOGS AND / OR DERIVATIVES
IN802BO1998 IN191357B (en) 1997-11-20 1998-12-10

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB9724580A GB2331528B (en) 1997-11-20 1997-11-20 Hair treatment composition

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
GB9724580D0 GB9724580D0 (en) 1998-01-21
GB2331528A true GB2331528A (en) 1999-05-26
GB2331528B GB2331528B (en) 2002-03-13

Family

ID=10822399

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
GB9724580A Expired - Fee Related GB2331528B (en) 1997-11-20 1997-11-20 Hair treatment composition

Country Status (8)

Country Link
AR (1) AR017642A1 (en)
BR (1) BR9804715A (en)
DE (1) DE19853215A1 (en)
ES (1) ES2142292B1 (en)
FR (1) FR2771289B1 (en)
GB (1) GB2331528B (en)
IN (2) IN190687B (en)
IT (1) IT1305195B1 (en)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2009079288A1 (en) * 2007-12-14 2009-06-25 Alberto-Culver Company Hair styling compositions and methods of use

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10060814A1 (en) * 2000-12-07 2002-06-13 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans New use of phospholipids
FR2926990B1 (en) * 2008-01-31 2014-05-09 Oreal COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING VINYLFORMAMIDE / VINYLFORMAMINE COPOLYMER AND SILICONE, AND USE THEREOF FOR CAPILLARY TREATMENT
FR2939037B1 (en) * 2008-12-02 2011-02-04 Oreal ASSOCIATION OF GLYCINE, SERINE, VALINE AND THREONINE FOR PROTECTING HAIR IN MAN

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1401089A (en) * 1972-05-17 1975-07-16 Oreal Cosmetic compositions for strengthening hair and process for the treatment of hair
GB2197352A (en) * 1986-11-12 1988-05-18 Zotos Int Inc Permanent waving composition
EP0304603A1 (en) * 1987-07-27 1989-03-01 INDENA S.p.A. Polyunsaturated acids having vasokinetic action and pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations containing them
EP0369105A1 (en) * 1988-11-16 1990-05-23 Sergio Bertini Curri A drug and method for increasing the microcirculatory flow-rate and volume in the capillaries to the skin
EP0571198A1 (en) * 1992-05-20 1993-11-24 Unilever Plc Cosmetic composition containing hair-growth promoter

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4837012A (en) * 1987-06-19 1989-06-06 S. C. Johnson & Son, Inc. Hair reviver composition containing film-forming amino acids
US5472698A (en) * 1994-12-20 1995-12-05 Elizabeth Arden Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. Composition for enhancing lipid production in skin
AU6301396A (en) * 1995-06-26 1997-01-30 Hans Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hair care products with at least one conditioner

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1401089A (en) * 1972-05-17 1975-07-16 Oreal Cosmetic compositions for strengthening hair and process for the treatment of hair
GB2197352A (en) * 1986-11-12 1988-05-18 Zotos Int Inc Permanent waving composition
EP0304603A1 (en) * 1987-07-27 1989-03-01 INDENA S.p.A. Polyunsaturated acids having vasokinetic action and pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations containing them
EP0369105A1 (en) * 1988-11-16 1990-05-23 Sergio Bertini Curri A drug and method for increasing the microcirculatory flow-rate and volume in the capillaries to the skin
EP0571198A1 (en) * 1992-05-20 1993-11-24 Unilever Plc Cosmetic composition containing hair-growth promoter

Non-Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
WPI Abstract Acc. No. 82-07778J/198250 and JP570179110A *
WPI Abstract Acc. No. 86-322214/198649 and JP610238718A *
WPI Abstract Acc. No. 93-055165/199307 and JP050004907A *
WPI Abstract Acc. No. 94-089246/199411 and JP060040858A *

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2009079288A1 (en) * 2007-12-14 2009-06-25 Alberto-Culver Company Hair styling compositions and methods of use

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
IN190687B (en) 2003-08-16
IT1305195B1 (en) 2001-04-10
AR017642A1 (en) 2001-09-12
GB2331528B (en) 2002-03-13
BR9804715A (en) 2007-10-02
ES2142292B1 (en) 2000-10-16
DE19853215A1 (en) 1999-05-27
ITTO980975A1 (en) 1999-05-20
GB9724580D0 (en) 1998-01-21
ES2142292A1 (en) 2000-04-01
FR2771289B1 (en) 2002-07-12
FR2771289A1 (en) 1999-05-28
IN191357B (en) 2003-11-29

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
CA2304574C (en) Heat-mediated conditioning from leave-on hair care compositions containing silicone
EP0985405B1 (en) Stiff-feel hair styling compositions
RU2390327C2 (en) Aerosol hairspray composition
US8182798B2 (en) Method of treating hair
CN100430043C (en) Aqueous hair styling compositions
US8580237B2 (en) Hair styling composition
US6350433B1 (en) Autophobic hair spray composition comprising film forming resin, propellant, and autophobic hair spray additive
EP0723433A1 (en) Hair cosmetic compositions
AU755257B2 (en) Corrosion inhibiting additive for cosmetic products
JP3095420B2 (en) Composition for the treatment of keratin fibers containing at least one anchoring polymer and at least one ceramide type compound and a method thereof
GB2331528A (en) Hair styling formulation
US6730289B2 (en) Cosmetic composition
JPH06509808A (en) Hairspray composition containing fluorosurfactant
JPH10298042A (en) Hair setting agent composition
EP1523300B1 (en) Hair care method characterised by application of specific 2-hydroxyalkanoic acids
US20060110349A1 (en) Hair care composition
JPH1171243A (en) Non-washing type protecting agent for hair
JPH11255620A (en) Hair cosmetic

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
PCNP Patent ceased through non-payment of renewal fee

Effective date: 20071120