GB2330615A

GB2330615A - Climbing aid for karabiners

Info

Publication number: GB2330615A
Application number: GB9716674A
Authority: GB
Inventors: David Roberts
Original assignee: INVOTEC Ltd
Current assignee: INVOTEC Ltd
Priority date: 1997-08-06
Filing date: 1997-08-06
Publication date: 1999-04-28
Anticipated expiration: 2017-08-06
Also published as: WO1999007445A1; AU8640098A; GB9716674D0; GB2330615B

Abstract

A climbing aid for karabiners comprises a disc 1 with a grooved rim 2 for receiving a rope, and having one or a plurality of through-apertures 3 whereby it can be engaged with the karabiner through its gate at a number of different positions. The rim supports rope looped through the karabiner and since it has a larger curvature bearing surface than the karabiner itself, reduces wear of the rope. Two peripheral grooves enable a pair of ropes to be run.

Description

2330615 IMPROVEMENTS RELATING TO CLIMBTNIG EQUIPMENT

Field of the Invention

This invention concerns improvements relating to climbing equipment and more particularly relates to a device for alleviating the problem of rope wear when ropes are used with karabiners supported from an anchor to secure a climber, particularly, though not exclusively, a lead climber.

Background of the Invention

There are various situations, particularly in rock climbing, where a climber is secured by a rope held by a karabiner, that is to say a loopshaped metal clip with a sprung gate, supported from an anchor point. A lead climber, for example, may be secured by a short length of rope, no more than say a metre or thereabouts, which is attached to the climber and extends to a is karabiner secured to an anchor point in a rock face for example. The support rope extends over the small diameter (10mrn or less) of the karabiner cross section and away to the next climber in the team, where it is secured, or to an alternative securement point.

It is well known in the climbing fraternity that the ends of climbing ropes are subjected to excessive wear as a result of the above-described scenario. The rope fibres start to split and break and the rope end acquires a hairy appearance. The rope fibres are split due to the effect of the rope 2 running over the small diameter cross-section of the karabiner. The fibres of the rope are stretched very tightly over the small diameter karabiner, which puts the outer fibres of the rope sheath under great stress and leads to their fracture. Since only a short length of rope extends between the climber and the karabiner, the rope is itself unable to accommodate the uneven stresses within it and is relatively rapidly subject to deterioration at its ends, whereas in the middle portion of the rope this is not the case and the rope is not subject to as much wear as at its ends.

Summarv of the Invention:

In order to overcome or at least substantially reduce the abovementioned problem the present invention provides a device adapted to be engaged with a karabiner and to provide a rope running through the karabiner with a laraer-curvature bearing surface than would be provided by the cross sectional dimension of the karabiner itself The said device could for example comprise a wheel having an apertured hub dimensioned to fit the karabiner and a rim grooved to accept a rope, such a wheel being arranged to rotate on the karabiner which serves as an axle. Rotation of the device is not essential, however, and in some circumstances could possibly be undesirable, in which case the apertured hub of the device could be shaped for non-rotating engagement with a non- circular section of the relevant load-bearing part of the karabiner; this, however, is not 3 preferred since it requires a non-standard karabiner. Non-rotation could alternatively be achieved by forming the apertured hub of the device at a non central position, in which case there could even be more than one aperture which has the advantage of enabling the device to be selectively engaged with a karabiner at a number of different positions of the device so as to extend the useful life of the device by distributing wear throughout the device.

Alternatively or additionally the device could be non-circular; a generally triangular device, for example, with rounded corners and with an aperture at each corner could possibly achieve the purposes of the present invention.

The device advantageously has a relatively deep rope-receiving groove about its circumference and, whilst it is preferred to keep the device simple, the device could comprise an outer annulus formed with the aforementioned groove and journalled for rotation about a central hub having one or more central and/or off-centre apertures for karabiner engagement. Such journalling of the rope-engaging rim of the device would substantially reduce friction on the rope in use of the device.

On some climbs, where anchor points are left permanently in place, the device may also be left permanently in place with a flexible cable attaching it to the anchor point so as to inhibit its removal.

By use of a device in accordance with the present invention not ordy can rope wear be significantly reduced, but also the action of the rope running on the device is rendered considerably smoother than when the rope runs only 4 on the karabiner. A belayer lowering a climbing partner has a better "feeP when the device is used and can exercise greater control, thereby smoothing the descent.

An exemplary embodiment of the invention will hereinafter be described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

Description of the Drawings:

Fig 1 is a front elevation view of an embodiment of the invention; Fig 2 is a sectional side elevation view of the Fig 1 device; and Fig 3 is a side elevation view without sectioning.

is Detailed Description of the Embodiment:

The device shown in the drawings is formed of hard aluminium for wear and corrosion resistance, but could be formed of other wear and corrosion resistant materials such as for example a reinforced plastics material.

The device 1 is circular, Eke a wheel, and has a deeply grooved rim 2 shaped to receive a climbing rope. Four apertures 3 are formed in the body of the device and, as can be seen from Fig 2, the lead-in to each aperture 3) is smoothly curved. The centre 4 of the device is provided with a stepped bore 5 for receiving a tethering cable (not shown) when the device is to be left permanently in position.

Dimensions of the device are shown in the drawing which shows the device about 213 full size. The apertures 4 are about 17mm. in diameter for readily accommodating the 10-15mrn diameter of a karabiner section and are spaced from the rim of the device by about 15mm which enables the device to be readily passed through the gate of a karabiner and engaged with the karabiner with its gate closed and locked. A comparison of the size of the apertures 3 in Fig 1 with the overall size of the device will readily show that a rope running over the device is subjected to substantially less bending stress than would be the case if it were running just on a karabiner, the karabiner cross-section obviously being smaller than the holes 3. The dimensions of the described device have been formulated with the dimensions of a standard karabiner (insofar as there is such a thing) in mind and to obtain optimum advantage, but clearly are susceptible to change.

Various modifications to the described device could be made, as contemplated hereinbefore. The device could have fewer apertures 3 andlor, with appropriate redimensioning, could have a central aperture such as to enable it to rotate on the karabiner. The rim of the device, formed with a single groove 2, could be provided with more than one groove so that two ropes could be run on the device simultaneously, though this is not preferred.

6

Claims

CLAIMS:

1. A device for use in rock climbing to reduce rope wear, the device being engaged or adapted to be engaged with a karabiner so as to provide a rope bearing surface having a greater curvature than would be provided by the cross-sectional dimension of the karabiner itself.

2. A device as claimed in claim 1 comprising a body formed with a grooved rim for receiving a rope and apertured for engagement with a karabiner through the gate thereof

3. A device as claimed in claim 2 wherein said body is circular, like a wheel.

4. A device as claimed in claim 2 or 3 wherein more than one spaced is apart aperture is provided.

5. A device as claimed in claim 2 or 3 or 4 wherein there is a central aperture.

6. A device as claimed in any of the preceding claims including a tethering cable for fixing the device in position.

7 7. A device substantially as herein described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

8. The combination of a device as claimed in any of the preceding claims with a karabiner.

9. The use of a combination as claimed in claim 8 with the karabiner attached to an anchor and a load bearing rope running in the device.

10. The use claimed in claim 9 wherein the device is secured to the anchor by means of a flexible coupling.