GB2295955A

GB2295955A - Jewellery

Info

Publication number: GB2295955A
Application number: GB9425315A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Michael Royston Millard
Original assignee: WOOLLEY JEWELLERS Ltd L
Current assignee: WOOLLEY JEWELLERS Ltd L
Priority date: 1994-12-14
Filing date: 1994-12-14
Publication date: 1996-06-19
Anticipated expiration: 2014-12-14
Also published as: GB2295955B; GB9425315D0

Abstract

A jewellery item has a body with an integral setting frame 4 and an ornamental disc 5 pressed or stamped from relatively thin sheet material mounted over the setting frame and secured to the setting frame 4. The disc 5 may be secured by bonding or soldering but in a preferred embodiment the disc 5 has at least one lug 6 extending from a marginal dependent flange 5e that is pressed into a matching recess 4c in the underside of the setting frame 4 to secure the disc 5. <IMAGE>

Description

Jewellery This invention relates to improvements in jewellery, in particular (but not exclusively) to jewellery items of the kind being finger rings, pendants, ear-rings or bracelets that have a visual ornamental appearance of including and mounting a coin or medallion.

For many years, various jewellery items have been made to mount genuine coins, such as sovereigns, or medallions. In the majority of these traditional jewellery items an annular mount sized to receive a coin or medallion is provided, and there is a separate decorative bezel keeper which fits over the peripheral edge of the coin or medallion. The separate bezel keeper is fixed to the mount to hold the coin or like received within the mount. Commonly the bezel keeper has had lugs or tags that are located through holes or C-bars in the annular mount and these lugs or tags are then bent over to hold and secure both the bezel keeper and coin or medallion within the mount.

The intrinsic cost of such traditional jewellery items is high, mainly because of the value of a genuine coin or medallion, but also the need to provide a mount and bezel keeper of sufficient strength and size to hold a coin or medallion which often has a thickness of 0.020" or more.

In recent times, various jewellery items have been produced to simulate the visual appearance of the mounting of a traditional genuine coin or medallion. In the manufacture of such jewellery items, one of the main objectives has been to reduce the weight of fine metal (gold or silver) and to simplify manufacture and assembly so that the cost of the jewellery items can be reduced.

In such simulated items, a sized pressing or stamping having a series of integral lugs has been used instead of a a genuine coin or medallion. The pressing or stamping is designed to look like a coin or medallion and the design includes a peripheral marginal pattern that gives the visual appearance of a bezel keeper. Such pseudo-coins or medallions can be secured to a traditional annular mount with the integral lugs being used to locate and hold the pseudo-coin or medallion in the mount.

As will be appreciated, such simulated jewellery items including such pseudo-coins or medallions can be manufactured more cheaply than the genuine items as there is no separate bezel keeper to be assembled over and to hold a coin or medallion.

Furthermore, probably a more important aspect for the jewellery trade engaged in mass manufacture of relatively cheap jewellery items has been the opportunity to reduce the weight of fine metal. One saving in weight arises from the absence of a separate bezel keeper. Another saving arises if the pseudo-coin or medallion is pressed or stamped from sheet fine metal of a thickness less than 0.020".

The appeal of coin or medallion types of jewellery continues, and because of the reduction in costs the use of such pseudo-coins or medallions has increased significantly since late 1992. However, there are some disadvantages in this use of pseudo-coins because although the thickness of the fine metal can be less than 0.020", the thickness of the fine metal has to be sufficient to provide adequate strength in the assembly. In particular, the pseudo-coin having a main disc-like body portion has to be strong enough to resist denting or other deformation during assembly and/or in wearer use, and the integral lugs have to be strong enough to hold the body portion in place during user wear of the jewellery item. The selected thickness of fine metal sheet will depend on the grade of fine metal uses and the overall size of the mount.For example, for a pseudo-coin sized to be equivalent to a full sovereign size, and in 9 carat gold, a minimum thickness is about 0.012" As part of the attempts to reduce the costs of such simulated coin or medallion jewellery items, attempts have been made to reduce the weight of fine metal by reducing the depth and/or thickness of the annular mount into which the pressed or stamped pseudo-coin or medallion is received and secured. However, this has led to more problems because the strength and/or rigidity of the annular mount can then be then be lessened so that it does not provide an adequate supporting embrasure within which the thin and weak pseudo-coin or medallion is mounted, and distortion and other deformation both of the pseudo-coin and the annular mount can arise, both during manufacture and in user wear.

It is an object of this invention to provide a jewellery item including a pseudo-coin or pseudo-medallion or other kind of decorative disc and which is simple to manufacture.

It is a further object this invention to provide a jewellery item including a pseudo-coin or pseudo-medallion or other kind of decorative disc and which has a special form of supporting mount assembly.

It is another object of this invention to provide this invention to provide a jewellery item including a pseudo-coin or pseudo-medallion or other kind of decorative disc and which enables a reduction in weight of fine metal whilst maintaining sufficient strength for wearer use.

Other objects and advantages of this invention will be apparent to those skilled in this field from the description later herein of various embodiments of our invention.

According to the broadest aspect of this invention, we provide a jewellery item having a body including an integral setting frame and comprising an ornamental disc pressed or stamped from relatively thin sheet material that is mounted over the setting frame and located and secured to said setting frame.

By this invention, the setting frame is an integral part of the body of the jewellery item, and the ornamental disc extends over the frame and is located and secured thereto. Thus, the ornamental disc is supported by the frame over which it extends so as provide a peripheral support to the marginal edge of the disc with the underlying setting frame being substantially hidden by the overlying disc. This has several advantages over prior arrangements in which the pseudo-coin or medallion of circular form is supported within an annular mount.

Preferably, the ornamental disc of fine metal and is of a thickness within the range of 0.012" to 0.004".

By using sheet material within such range of thicknesses, significant savings in manufacturing costs can be achieved, and due to the marginal support provided by the setting frame, it is possible to use sheet materials of such relative small thicknesses.

The setting frame is sized and designed to complement the ornamental disc to be located thereon. For producing the typical jewellery items simulating coin or medallion jewellery, the setting frame is of circular form complementary to the disc to be mounted on and over the frame and to be located and secured thereto.

Furthermore, with this invention, the setting frame may be of other curvilinear forms and shapes such as oval, elliptical, shield or rounded lozenge.

These other curvilinear forms enable a range of other visually attractive jewellery items to be made by providing complementary sized and shaped ornamental discs that may carry designs or patterns including zodiac signs, initials, monograms, or other decorative symbols.

Preferably, the body of the jewellery item is produced by casting, and the setting frame is a continuous wall or flange that has a substantially square or rectangular cross-section. The setting frame provides an upper face and an external wall face of shape and sized complementary to the ornamental disc to be located thereon.

In a preferred arrangement, the disc has a marginal dependent flange arranged to overlie the external wail face of the setting frame so that the setting frame is not visible when the jewellery item is in the display or wearer presentation attitude, such as for a ring, pendant or ear-ring.

By this arrangement, the setting frame provides a relatively strong marginal reinforcement for the relatively thin ornamental disc extending over the frame as well as supporting the dependent edge flange of the disc which overlies the external wall face of the setting frame.

The ornamental disc may have a central or midmost portion carrying a principal design or ornamental pattern with the marginal dependent flange extending from a raised peripheral border edge portion having other ornamentation or banding such as rope design or other patterning including diamond cutting.

In this aspect of our invention where the ornamental disc has a raised peripheral border edge, this may be sized so as to fit over the setting frame with the internal face of the raised edge seating over the upper face of the frame so as to locate the dise on the setting frame.

In order to secure the ornamental disc to the setting frame, it is preferred that the disc have at least one lug extending from the dependent marginal flange with the setting frame having at least one recess formed in the bottom edge portion adjacent to the body of the jewellery item and each recess being arranged to receive a disc lug that can be bent inwardly of the setting frame to secure the disc to the setting frame.

The ornamental disc may have more than one lug, and the number of lugs and the relative spacing will depend on the shape and size of the setting frame and how this is integrally formed as part of the body of the jewellery item. For a circular or oval form, it is envisaged that four lugs may be provided with a similar number of recesses formed in the setting frame. However, for an elliptical shape, only two or three lugs and recesses may be provided.

As will be appreciated, as the marginal dependant flange of the disc extends over the outer wall of the setting frame, the folded lug or lugs will not detract from the outward appearance of the jewellery item as the lug or lugs is/are folded inwards and will be hidden behind the frame under the central or midmost portion of the disc that extends over the setting frame.

In the manufacture of the invented jewellery items, the disc is first pressed or stamped so as to have the embossed or pressed design or patterning and the marginal dependent edge flange is formed with any required lugs. The ornamental disc is then presented to the complementary setting frame of the jewellery item body, and the disc is then pushed over the setting flange. In such action, any minor deformation of the thin material of the disc around the dependent marginal edge flange is accommodated as the setting frame is relatively strong and will force the weaker marginal flange of the disc to conform to the profile of the outer wall face of the setting frame.

Accordingly, this invention enabling relatively thin sheet materials to be used for the ornamental disc, provides significant advantages in manufacture and assembly of jewellery items.

When the pressed disc is presented to the complementary setting frame, any lugs are aligned with matching recesses in the setting frame.

Once the disc has been pushed over the setting frame, any lugs are then easily pressed over inwardly into respective recesses in the setting frame so as to secure the disc to the setting frame.

The recesses provided in the setting frame may be simple cut-outs in the bottom edge of the setting frame into which the lugs may be pushed and pressed over to be hidden behind the wall of the setting frame.

Although it is most likely that lugs will be used for most sizes of ornamental discs to be used for our invented jewellery items, the use of lugs to secure the disc to the setting frame is not essential. It is envisaged that the disc may be pushed over the setting frame and then bonded or soldered in place.

As previously mentioned, this invention may be applied to a range of shapes or forms provided that the setting frame and the ornamental disc are of complementary shapes. In addition, for single size and shape of setting frame, different patterned ornamental discs may be fitted to a basic jewellery body with the requisite sized and complementary frame, There are other advantages arising from our invention which arise from the use of a setting frame having the continuous wall or flange which merely has to provide any recesses for receiving any lugs on the complementary ornamental disc. In the prior arrangements as referred to previously, it has been the practice to use C-bars in the annular setting mount and these have received lugs or tags of a separate bezel or pseudocoins or medallions.These C-bars are of very thin section, and often when casting the jewellery item body, these C-bars are not filled properly by the molten metal, and high scrap rates can arise with some particular designs.

By our invention, the use of C-bars and an annular setting mount within which the pseudo-coin or medallion are avoided, and we provide a significant improvement in the manufacture of jewellery items of the simulated coin or medallion jewellery type.

Other features of this invention will now be described with reference to any exemplary embodiment shown in the accompanying illustrative drawings as follows: FIGURE 1 is a plan view of a finger ring body having an annular setting frame; FIGURE 2 is a plan view of the finger ring body shown in Figure 1 having an ornamental disc on the setting frame; FIGURE 3 is a side view of the finger ring body shown in Figure 1, FIGURE 4 is a side view of the finger ring with disc as shown in Figure 2; FIGURE 5 is an underneath plan view in the direction A shown in Figure 4; and FIGURE 6 is a sectional view in the direction B-B shown in Figure 5.

The Drawings show a finger ring body 1 having a shank 2 and opposed shoulders 3 and an integral annular setting frame 4. The frame 4 is of substantially rectangular cross-section (Figure 6) and provides an upper annular surface 4a and an outer wall face 4b. The lower edge portion of the frame 4 is provided with two diametrically opposed recesses 4c which are spaced from the intervening shoulders 3 so as not to interfere with same.

The setting frame 4 is arranged to support and locate a disc 5 made of thin sheet metal and which has a central portion Sa into which is pressed or stamped a design 5b. The disc 5 is sized and shaped to complement the setting frame 4, and in this embodiment, the disc 5 has a raised marginal border edge Sc that has a border pattern 5d. The disc 5 is also provided with a dependant flange 5e (Figures 4 & 6) that extends all round the disc and from which also extend two diametrically opposed short lugs 6 (Figures 5 & 6).

The disc of circular shape with the opposed lug extensions 6 is stamped or pressed from relatively thin sheet fine metal, for instance 9 carat gold or silver of thickness of 0.008". During such pressing and/or stamping, the design 5b and any border pattern 5d with the raised border edge Sc and dependant flange 5e is formed.

The so formed disc 5 is then presented to the finger ring body 1 and pushed over the top of the setting frame 4 with the raised border edge seating over the top of the setting flange with the lugs 6 aligned with the recesses 4c. The disc 5 is trued into the correct shape (if required) during such operation, and thereafter, the lugs 6 are simply bent inwardly through the recesses 4c to underlie the setting frame 4 out of sight.

As will now be appreciated, the setting frame provides a reinforcement supporting the relatively thin and weak material of the disc around its marginal edge where the ring would be exposed in user wear.

Although in this embodiment, the disc is shown with the raised border edge, this is not essential, and it can be omitted. This option may depend on the thickness of the metal being used, the pattern or design and the overall size of the disc.

For simplicity, this embodiment has shown a finger ring, but the setting frame may be provided as part of a pendant, a brooch or an ear-ring.

A plurality of setting frames with links may be connected together to form a bracelet, or a setting frame may be provided in a bracelet or bangle.

In addition, although the exemplary embodiment has shown a circular disc with complementary setting frame, there are many more curvilinear shapes and forms for which this invention is appropriate. In particular, the frame setting may be an oval or elliptical shape with the disc being of complementary shape and carrying a suitable pattern or design. Such alternative shapes are suitable for all types of jewellery items, and can be made into a range of items such as mentioned just above.

Other shapes and forms can be devised, in particular shapes which are of shield or lozenge shape as commonly used for signet rings or pendants and ear-rings.

The shape and form of the setting frame and complementary disc may require more than one lug, and in some cases, four lugs with complementary recesses in the setting frame may be required.

Although in this embodiment the setting frame has two recesses and the disc has two lugs, these are not essential for some sizes and shapes or forms. In some applications of this invention, particular for small sizes, say 1/10th sovereign sizes, it possible to push the disc into place and then bond the disc to the setting frame by any suitable bonding agent or solder. In other applications of this invention, the non-circular shapes and forms may be such as to prevent any turning of the disc relative to the setting frame, and the interference fit of the disc to the setting frame may be sufficient to hold the disc firmly in place.

It will be realised that our invention provides very important savings in manufacture of jewellery items as well as providing cost savings due to the reduction in weight of fine metal that has to be used in comparison with prior kinds of similar jewellery items.

Claims

Claims:

1. A jewellery item having a body including an integral setting frame and comprising an ornamental disc pressed or stamped from relatively thin sheet material that is mounted over the setting frame and located and secured to said setting frame.

2. A jewellery item according to Claim 1 wherein the setting frame provides a peripheral support to the marginal edge of the disc with the underlying setting frame being substantially hidden by the overlying disc.

3. A jewellery item according to Claim 1 or Claim 2 wherein the ornamental disc is of fine metal.

4. A jewellery item according to any one of the preceding Claims wherein the ornamental disc is of a thickness within the range of 0.012" to 0.004".

5. A jewellery item according to any one of the preceding Claims wherein the setting frame is sized and designed to complement the ornamental disc.

6. A jewellery item according to any one of the preceding Claims wherein the ornamental disc and setting frame are of complementary curvilinear form.

7. A jewellery item according to Claim 6 wherein the ornamental disc and setting frame are of circular, oval, elliptical, shield or rounded lozenge form and shape.

8. A jewellery item according to any one of the preceding Claims wherein the body is produced by casting.

9. A jewellery item according to any one of the preceding Claims wherein the setting frame is a continuous wall or flange that has a substantially square or rectangular cross-section.

10. A jewellery item according to any one of the preceding Claims wherein the setting frame provides an upper face and an external wall face of shape and size complementary to the ornamental disc.

11. A jewellery item according to Claim 10 wherein the ornamental disc has a marginal dependent flange arranged to overlie the external wall face of the setting frame.

12. A jewellery item according to Claim 11 wherein the ornamental disc has a centre portion carrying a principal design or ornamental pattern.

13. A jewellery item according to Claim 12 wherein the principal design or pattern comprises a decorative symbol including zodiac signs, initial monograms.

14. A jewellery item according to Claim 12 wherein the principal design or pattern simulates a coin or medallion.

15. A jewellery item according to any one of Claims 11 to 14 wherein the marginal dependent flange extends from a raised peripheral border edge portion.

16. A jewellery item according to Claim 15 wherein the border edge portion has a border pattern or design.

17. A jewellery item according to Claim 16 wherein the border pattern or design comprises a rope design or other patterning including diamond cutting.

18. A jewellery item according to any one of Claims 15 to 17 wherein the border edge portion is sized to fit over the setting frame with the internal face of the border edge portion seating over the upper face of the frame to locate the disc on the setting frame.

19. A jewellery item according to any one of Claims 11 to 18 wherein the ornamental disc has at least one lug extending from the marginal dependent flange and the setting frame has at least one recess formed in the bottom edge portion to receive the lug to secure the ornamental disc to the setting frame.

20. A jewellery item according to Claim 19 wherein the ornamental disc has a plurality of lugs and the setting frame has a corresponding plurality of recesses to receive the lugs.

21. A jewellery item according to any one of Claims 11 to 18 wherein the ornamental disc is bonded or soldered to the setting frame.

22. A jewellery item according to any one of the preceding Claims comprising a finger ring, pendant, ear-ring or bracelet.

23. A jewellery item substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

24. A method of manufacturing a jewellery item having a body with an integral setting frame comprises forming an ornamental disc with a marginal dependent edge flange by pressing or stamping from relatively thin sheet material, and locating and securing the ornamental disc on the setting frame.

25. A method according to Claim 24 wherein the ornamental disc is secured to the setting frame by pressing over inwardly at least one lug extending from the marginal dependent flange into a matching recess in the setting frame.

26. A method according to Claim 24 wherein the ornamental disc is secured to the setting frame by bonding or soldering.

27. A method according to any one of Claims 24 to 26 wherein the ornamental disc has a design or pattern on a centre portion.

28. A method according to Claim 27 wherein the design or pattern simulates a coin or medallion.

29. A method of manufacturing a jewellery item substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

30. A jewellery item made by the method according to any one of Claims 24 to 29.