GB2197577A

GB2197577A - Shoe wlth stitched-in sock

Info

Publication number: GB2197577A
Application number: GB8627869A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Stewart Barry Haines
Original assignee: C&J Clark International Ltd
Current assignee: C&J Clark International Ltd
Priority date: 1986-11-21
Filing date: 1986-11-21
Publication date: 1988-05-25
Also published as: GB8627869D0

Abstract

A method of manufacturing a shoe by slip lasting is characterised in that the shoe upper (1,2) is stitched to a sock (3) on a single thread overseaming machine without provision of a turned band stitched around the feather of the upper. The method may involve the provision of a secondary vamp (6) which is stitched to the upper, and extends under the last feather onto the sock (3) and partly overlies it. <IMAGE>

Description

"IMPROVEMENTS RELATING TO THE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES" This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes by a slip lasting method and has been devised with a view to the production of a shoe having great flexibility, and great comfort when worn, without the need for conventional lasting machinery.

When using stitched-in socks for normal cemented, close edge footwear, the sock-to-upper seam needs to be under the feather of the last by an amount sufficient to give an acceptable width of upper margin for sole attaching. This position of the seam increases the amount of upper at the toe and seat which is required to be gathered or pinched in to fit the sock, makes location at lasting difficult and variable, and creates difficulty in roughing the lasting margin without damage to the stitching thread. This system also has the disadvantage of possible "peel back" of the upper from the sole in wear due to the lack of stiffness in the sock around the feather edge.

Alternatively a Stroebel seam can be positioned on the last feather but this in turn means using a suitable bottoming method to cover the stitching which appears above the feather of the last, i.e. by use of Rands welts or high wall units. This does restrict the shoe designs to heavier, more casual types of footwear.

Further, the Californian construction which incorporates the use of a turned band stitched around the feather of the upper1 whilst perfectly acceptable in design ad comfort terms does restrict all styles to a band and thus all designs of this construction have a similarity in appearance.

The new flexible construction according to the present invention incorporates all the benefits of the Californian construction and one thread overseaming machine stitching but without the same degree of restriction and similarity in design.

According to the present invention, a method of manufacturing a shoe by slip lasting is essentially characterised in that the shoe upper is stitched to a sock on a single thread overseaming machine without provision of a turned band stitched around the feather of the upper.

Preferably also in accordance with the invention, the above method is characterised by the provision of a secondary vamp which is stitched to the upper and extends onto and partly overlies the sock The method of the invention is hereinafter described by reference to the accompanying drawing which is a cross-section of a lasted shoe constructed according to this method.

Referring now to the drawing, the main upper components, namely the vamp and quarters 1, 2 are constructed so that they fit the last to the last feather. The sock 3 is also constructed to fit the last feather. Gathering or pinching in of the upper at the toe and seat can be totally eliminated, at the toe by having a zig-zag stitch (not shown) under a secondary vamp 6 or the amount required to be gathered if no seam is required can be significantly reduced by a pattern cutting method or choice of upper material.

Location points are established on both upper 1, 2 and sock 3 to ensure accurate location and assembly.

The presence of a secondary overlaid vamp 6 attached at the top by stitching 8 to the upper is the only restriction, yet it can be virtually any distance above the feather provided it is not closer than 3/8" to the feather. This distance and shape provides the necessary clearance for overseam stitching 7 of the sock 3 to the main upper.

The counter (not shown) is attached to the overlaid vamp 6 and both subsequently to the main upper 1, 2 in such a way as to enable the overlaid vamp 6 and counter to be turned back to facilitate one thread overseaming 7 stitching of the sock to the main upper.

Uppers are force lasted, the sock 3 and upper 1, 2 being constructed so that they meet at the last feather to ensure accurate and consistent location on the last.

The overlaid vamp 6 and counter are wrapped under the feather and cemented to the sock 3. The shoe bottom can then be prepared for a variety of sole (4) constructions by conventional means. A filler or platform (5) can then be applied to the sock in order to fill the cavity created within the lasting margin.

As with all slip lasted construction the accurate production of patterns and assembly of upper components is essential. The minimum number of upper components and the use of automatic stitching of components goes a long way to ensure accurate assembly.

The method of the present invention produces a shoe of great flexibility and comfort without the need for conventional lasting machinery.

It was initially devised to allow these benefits to be used by the designers of more elegant formal footwear as well as casual footwear. Greater flexibility in design aesthetics can be achieved by a variety of overlaid vamp positions as well as vamp edge treatments.

This construction is suitable for mens, womens and childrens footwear in any materials with a variety of stuck on or direct moulded bottoming materials.

The effect of the Strobel seam at the feather position and the secondary vamp being wrapped around the feather and cemented to the sock significantly reinforces the sock around the feather thus reducing the problems of upper 'peel back' from sole in wear.

Claims

1. A method of manufacturing a shoe by slip lasting characterised in that the shoe upper is stitched to a sock on a single thread overseaming machine without provision of a turned band stitched around the feather of the upper.

2. A method as claimed in Claim 1 characterised by the provision of a secondary vamp which is stitched to the upper and extends under the last feather and partly overlies the sock

3. A shoe when manufactured by the method claimed in Claim 1 or Claim 2.

4. A method of manufacturing a shoe by slip lasting substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to, and as shown in, the accompanying drawing.