GB2143550A

GB2143550A - Stitching jigs

Info

Publication number: GB2143550A
Application number: GB08416124A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Peter Ronald Gill
Original assignee: AMF Inc
Current assignee: AMF Inc
Priority date: 1983-07-21
Filing date: 1984-06-25
Publication date: 1985-02-13
Also published as: GB8416124D0; GB2143550B

Abstract

A stitching jig has a lower plate 1 to which are pivoted at least one holding plate 5 and an upper plate 7. A fulling plate 20 is detachably and adjustably mounted on the holding plate. The fulling plate 20 has an upstanding fulling member 22 and two clamping section 30, 31 which can be independently and successively lowered to engage a layer of fabric laid over the fulling member, engagement occurring first at one side and then at the other side of the fulling member, whereby unwanted distortion of the fabric may be avoided. <IMAGE>

Description

SPECIFICATION Improvements relating to stitching jigs and their use This invention relates to stitching jigs and their use; such jigs are now widely used in the clothing industry.

Stitching jigs are used in conjunction with a sewing machine in the stitching together of two or more layers of fabric along a predetermined stitching profile. Such jigs comprise a lower plate and an upper plate, usually hinged to the lower plate, between which the layers of fabric are received. At least the lower plate defines a track for receiving guide means on the sewing machine and the jig is loaded so that parts of the layers of material overlie the track and can be stitched together along the line of the track by the sewing machine.

It often happens that fulness is required in one of the fabric layers relative to the others.

Various means for introducing required fulness are known, most of which include an intermediate plate lying between the lower and upper plates, and having on its upper surface an upstanding fulling member of required shape. In use a first layer of fabric is laid on the lower plate, the intermediate plate is lowered onto that first fabric layer and the second fabric layer is placed over the intermediate plate and upstanding fulling member.

This does not of itself distort the upper layer of fabric and introduce fulness. This action occurs when an upper plate, or some other holding member, is then lowered onto the intermediate plate to engage the upper fabric layer adjacent to an edge or edges of the fulling member.

One type of upstanding fulling member used for example in the stitching of jacket facing and fore-parts comprises a shallow section raised above the intermediate plate. After laying of the upper layer of fabric over such fulling member the fabric is fulled and clamped in position by lowering an upper plate or other member into contact with the fabric, the upper plate or other member engaging the fabric to opposite sides of the fulling member. This is obviously effective to hold the upper fabric layer in position, but there is the disadvantage that this type of clamping tends to stretch the cloth over the fulling member, which can potentially introduce pattern distortions into the finished garment. The present invention seeks to overcome this problem.

According to the invention a stitching jig comprises a lower plate having a stitching track formed therethrough, the lower plate being engageable with guide means on a sewing machine, a holding plate having a lower surface engageable with an upper surface of the lower plate to hold a first layer of fabric therebetween, a fulling member projecting upwardly from the upper surface of the holding plate, and clamping means having a lower surface engageable with the upper surface of the holding plate to hold a second layer of fabric therebetween, the clamping means comprising first and second clamping sections engageable with the fabric to opposite sides of the fulling member, the sections being separately movable to their clamping positions so that clamping is progressively effected first at one side of the fulling member and then at the other side of the fulling member.

In use, the first layer of fabric is laid over the lower plate and the track therein, and the holding plate, which will usually be hinged to the lower plate, is lowered into engagement with the first fabric layer. A second fabric layer is then laid over the holding plate and fulling member, with part also overlying the stitching track. The first of the two clamping sections, which will usually be hinged either to the holding plate or to the lower plate, is then lowered onto the upper surface of the second fabric layer, the section engaging the fabric in the region of a first edge of the fulling member. The second layer of fabric is adjusted from one end thereof over the fulling member so that no stretching or other unwanted distortion of the fabric occurs.The second clamping section is then lowered onto the second fabric layer, to engage the fabric in the region of a second, opposite edge of the fulling member. Again, the fabric is, if necessary, adjusted from said one end thereof so as to prevent stretching or unwanted distortion of the fabric, stretching of the fabric overlying the fulling member thus being prevented.

The invention also extends to the use of the jig in a method of assembling together two layers of fabric for stitching by a sewing machine, the method comprising the steps of laying a first layer of fabric over the upper surface of a lower plate of a stitching jig and over a stitching track formed therethrough, lowering a holding plate onto the upper surface of the first fabric layer to hold the first layer in position, laying a second layer of fabric over the holding plate and over a fulling member projecting upwardly from the upper surface of the holding plate, part of the second layer also overlying the stitching track, lowering a first clamping section onto the upper surface of the second fabric layer to engage that fabric layer in the region of a first edge of the fulling member, adjusting the second fabric layer from one end thereof over the fulling member to avoid unwanted distortion of the second fabric layer, and lowering a second clamping section onto the upper surface of the second fabric layer to engage that fabric layer in the region of a second, opposite edge of the fulling member.

Two or more holding plates may be present, each hinged to the lower plate and each having an associated fulling means and clamping means formed in two clamping sections. In such a jig the clamping sections of the clamping means most remote from the end from which the fabric is adjusted are lowered first to engage the second layer of fabric, then the clamping sections of the clamping means next most remote and so on progressively along the fabric to ensure that all the fulling arises from non-distorted adjustment of the fabric.

In order that fabric parts of different sizes can be accommodated, and fulness introduced at the appropriate areas thereof, preferably the or each fulling member and its associated clamping means is adjustably mounted on the respective holding plate.

It will be understood that the particular shape and relative positions of the various plates, the fulling member and the clamping means will be designed to suit the particular stitching job to be undertaken. Purely as an example of the way that the invention may be put into practice, and in order that the invention may be better understood, a stitching jig suitable for use in the stitching of jacket facing and fore-parts will now be described in more detail, with reference to the accompanying drawings in which: Figure 1 is a perspective plan view of the jig; Figure 2 is a view of the jig of Figure 1 in a first intermediate condition of use; and Figure 3 is a view of the jig of Figure 1 in a second intermediate condition of use.

The jig comprises a lower plate 1 having a track 2 engageable with guide means on a sewing machine. Hinge means 3 are secured along an edge of the lower plate remote from the guide track and three intermediate or holding plates 4 to 6 are hinged to the lower plate about the hinge means. An upper plate 7 is also hinged to the lower plate about the hinge means. Each of the holding plates 5 and 6 has an upstanding track 10, 11 respectively and a carrier 12, 1 3 is engageable with each track, being slidable therealong and capable of being secured in any required position on the track by a thumb screw 14, 1 5 (or any other suitable locking means) respectively. Each carrier has secured thereto a fulling plate 20, 21 having secured to the upper surface thereof a fulling block 22, 23.The fulling blocks have a depth such that the desired amount of fulness may be introduced into a fabric layer, and their edges are shaped so that the fulness appears over the required area of the fabric layer.

The fulling plate 20 has two clamping sections 30, 31 pivoted thereto about hinge means 32, the clamping sections having regions that when lowered lie adjacent to opposite edges 33, 34 of the block 22. Similarly, two clamping sections 40 and 41 are pivoted to the fulling plate 21 about hinge means 42.

Again the clamping sections are shaped to have regions which when lowered lie adjacent to opposite edges of the fulling block 23.

In use, the jig is opened so that the upper plate and the holding plates 5 and 6 are folded back from the lower plate. A first layer of fabric 50 is placed in position over the lower plate, with the edge of the fabric overlapping the guide track 2, which also defines the stitching line. The holding plates 5 and 6 and the fulling plates 20 and 21 are then lowered onto the upper surface of the first fabric layer as shown in Figure 2, the clamping sections 30, 31 and 40, 41 being located in their raised positions as shown in that Figure. A second fabric layer 51, which will usually have interlining fabric 52 fused thereto, is then laid over the holding plates and over the fulling blocks upstanding from the fulling plates, also to overlie the stitching track 2.The first of the clamping sections 41 is then lowered into contact with the second fabric layer, the layer being adjusted over the fulling block 23 from the end 60 of the fabric and in the direction of the arrow 61, to avoid stretching of the fabric. The second clamping section 40 is then lowered, similar fabric adjustment in the direction of arrow 61 being effected if required, and this completes the fulling of the second layer over the fulling block 23. The clamping sections 40 and 41 hold the second fabric layer in position in its fulled condition. The first clamping section 31 of the holding plate 5 is then lowered into contact with the second fabric layer, the fabric being again adjusted from the end 60 and in the direction of the arrow 61 over the fulling block 22 to avoid stretching the fabric and distortion of any pattern thereof.The second clamping section 30 is then lowered, once more with fabric adjustment if necessary, to complete the fulling and holding of the second fabric layer around the fulling block 22.

The upper plate 7 is then folded down into the position shown in Figure 1, where parts of the upper plate engage the holding plates and the end regions of the clamping sections in order to hold the entire assembly in the condition required for stitching. The loaded jig is then put into a sewing machine, with the track engaging a guide on the sewing machine bed plate, the guide incorporating a needle hole. Stitching is then effected with the jig being guided by the track, the jig being moved either manually or, more commonly, automatically by means of a drive member from the sewing machine. At the completion of stitching the thread is cut, the jig removed from the machine and the various plates opened so that the stitched fabric layers may be taken from the jig.

This jig, used in the stitching of jacket facing and fore-parts, thus enables all fulness to be introduced by taking up cloth of the second layer from one end, which in practice will be the bottom of the jacket front, no cloth being taken up laterally. The cloth will usually be oriented so that the fabric grain or stripe extends from bottom to top of the second layer, i.e. in the direction of the arrow 61.

Accordingly it will readily be seen that the required fulness is obtained without any distortion of the pattern resulting from the grain or stripe.

It will particularly be noted that each fulling plate is detachably mounted on the associated holding plate and is adjustable relative to that holding plate. Thus, fulling plates can be changed as required, for example to accommodate wide variations in fabric thickness, and their position can also be adjusted to accommodate variations in garment size so that fulness is introduced into any required area of the second fabric layer. This increases the versatility of the apparatus. However, it is the progressive clamping of the second layer of material to opposite edges of the fulling blocks from one end of the jig to the other that leads to the major advantages of being able to introduce fulness without stretching of the material and therefore without distortion of the fabric pattern in the finished work.

Claims

1. A stitching jig comprising a lower plate having a stitching track formed therethrough, the lower plate being engageable with guide means on a sewing machine, a holding plate having a lower surface engageable with an upper surface of the lower plate to hold a first layer of fabric therebetween, a fulling member projecting upwardly from the upper surface of the holding plate, and clamping means having a lower surface engageable with the upper surface of the holding plate to hold a second layer of fabric therebetween, the clamping means comprising first and second clamping sections engageable with the fabric to opposite sides of the fulling member, the sections being separately movable to their clamping positions so that clamping is progressively effected first at one side of the fulling member and then at the other side of the fulling member.

2. A stitching jig according to claim 1 in which the holding plate is hinged to the lower plate, and each of the first and second clamping sections is hinged to the holding plate.

3. A stitching jig according to claim 1 or claim 2 which includes at least two of said holding plates, each having an associated fulling means and clamping means formed in two clamping sections.

4. A stitching jig according to claim 3 in which at least two of the holding plates are secured together for simultaneous movement relative to the lower plate.

5. A stitching jig according to any one of the preceding claims in which mounting means are provided which mount the or each fulling member and its associated clamping means on the respective holding plate, the mounting means being such that each fulling member and its associated clamping means is adjustable relative to the respective holding plate.

6. A stitching jig according to claim 5 in which the or each mounting means comprises a fulling plate to which the fulling member is secured and on which the clamping sections are hinged, and means detachably and adjustably mounting the fulling plate on the holding plate for sliding adjustment relative to the holding plate.

7. A stitching jig according to any one of the preceding claims and including an upper plate hinged to the lower plate and having a lower surface at least part of which is engageable with the upper surface of the or each holding plate and clamping sections, the upper plate having cut-out sections for accommodating the or each fulling member when the upper plate is in its lowered position.

8. A stitching jig substantially as herein described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

9. A method of assembling together two layers of fabric in a jig for stitching by a sewing machine, comprising the steps of laying a first layer of fabric over the upper surface of a lower plate of a stitching jig and over a stitching track formed therethrough, lowering a holding plate onto the upper surface of the first fabric layer to hold the first layer in position, laying a second layer of fabric over the holding plate and over a fulling member projecting upwardly from the upper surface of the holding plate, part of the second layer also overlying the stitching track, lowering a first clamping section onto the upper surface of the second fabric layer to engage that fabric layer in the region of a first edge of the fulling member, adjusting the second fabric layer from one end thereof over the fulling member to avoid unwanted distortion of the second fabric layer, and lowering a second clamping section onto the upper surface of the second fabric layer to engage that fabric layer in the region of a second, opposite edge of the fulling member.