GB2129283A - Forming seamed three- dimensional article from pieces of sheet material - Google Patents

Abstract

The apparatus has a three- dimensional form with a peripheral surface which generally corresponds to the contour of the article to be formed. Pattern pieces are picked up and positioned on the form by a manipulator which has an articulated arm carrying a pickup device and which operates in response to signals from a programmable controller. A seaming tool carried by another manipulator moves in working relation to pattern pieces spread on the form to join the pattern pieces along seams which generally follow the contour of the form in response to signals from the controller. Another manipulator moves a pressing head in pressing relation to pattern pieces spread on the form in response to signals from the controller to press the pattern pieces or the article made from the pattern pieces to remove wrinkles therefrom.

Description

SPECIFICATION Apparatus for making three-dimensional seamed articles from pattern pieces of sheet material This invention relates in general to apparatus for working on sheet material and deals more particularly with an automatic mechanism for making three-dimensional seamed sheet material articles, such as articles of apparel, upholstery, and the like. In accordance with conventional procedure for manufacturing such articles, coded bundles of component parts or pattern pieces are delivered to sewing stations, separated, assembled in properly oriented relation, and manually guided through sewing machines. Each component part of an article may be manually handled numerous times before the article is finished.Currently, semiautomatic microprocessor controlled sewing apparatus is available and has proven useful for special applications and have materially increased the production rates for making substantially standardized items such as, cuffs, collars and shoe-uppers and producing decorative stitching, however, such machine are generally limited to two dimensional flat stitching.

We have identified a need to provide improved apparatus for making three-dimensional seamed articles from pattern pieces of sheet material whereby labor and handling normally associated with the manufacture of such items is substantially eliminated or at least materially reduced, and an aim of the present invention is to provide improvements in this respect.

In accordance with the present invention, apparatus is provided for making threedimensional seamed articles from pattern pieces of sheet material and comprises a form including a peripheral surface for supporting pattern pieces of sheet material spread thereon. The peripheral surface has a three-dimensional shape which substantially corresponds to the shape of a threedimensional article to be formed. The apparatus further includes seaming tool means for forming seams to join associated portions of the pattern pieces spread on the peripheral surface, a programmable controller, and means for moving said seaming tool means relative to the peripheral surface and in working relation to pattern pieces spread on the peripheral surface in response to signals from the controller to join associated portions of the pattern pieces.

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a garment or skirt made on an apparatus embodying the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of a pattern piece used to make the skirt of Fig 1.

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary plan view of another pattern piece used to make the skirt.

Fig. 4 is a somewhat schematic front elevational view of the apparatus embodying the present invention.

Fig. 5 is a somewhat reduced plan view of the apparatus of Fig. 4.

Fig. 6 is a left elevational view of the apparatus of Fig. 4.

Fig. 7 is a plan view of the form.

Fig. 8 is a fragmentary sectional view taken along the line 8-8 of Fig. 7.

Fig. 9 is similar to Fig. 8 but shows another apparatus embodying the invention.

Fig. 10 is also similar to Fig. 8 but shows still another apparatus embodying the invention.

Turning now to the drawings and referring first particularly to Fig. 4, apparatus embodying the present invention is indicated generally by the reference numeral 1 0. The illustrated apparatus 10 is particularly adapted for making a garment or skirt, designated by the letter S in Fig. 1 ,from a plurality of pattern pieces of sheet material. The pattern pieces from which the skirt S is formed are shown in Figs. 2 and 3 and include two substantially identical pieces Pt, P1', which form the front and back parts of the skirt S and another piece or waistband indicated at P2, which may comprise a single pattern piece or a subassembly of pieces which may, for exampie, include a strip of reinforcing material or an elastic waistband strip.

Referring now to Figs. 4-6, the apparatus 10 generally comprises a three-dimensional form 12 which has a peripheral surface 14 for supporting the pattern pieces P1, P1, and P2. The peripheral surface 14 has a three-dimensional shape which generally corresponds to the shape of the threedimensional garment or skirt S to be formed. The apparatus 10 further includes a programmable controller, indicated schematically and designated generally by the numeral 16, a seaming tool assembly indicated generally at 18 and including a seaming tool 19 for forming seams to join associated portions of pattern pieces to each other, and a seaming tool manipulator, indicated generally at 20, for moving the seaming tool relative to the peripheral surface 14 and in working relation to pattern pieces spread thereon to join the pattern pieces which form the article or skirt S.

The illustrated apparatus 10 further includes a pattern piece pickup device, designated generally by the numeral 22 in Figs. 5 and 6, and a pickup device manipulator, indicated generally at 24, for moving the pickup device to pickup a pattern piece from a stack of pattern pieces 25 positioned at a predetermined location near the form 12, transfer it to, and orient it in a predetermined position on the peripheral surface 14 in accordance with command signals received from the programmable controller 1 6.

Optionally, the apparatus 10 may also include a pressing tool 26 and a pressing tool manipulator, indicated generally at 28, for moving the pressing tool relative to the peripheral surface 14 and in pressing relation to the pattern pieces which comprise the finished three-dimensional article to remove wrinkles from the article in response to command signals from the programmable controller 1 6.

The illustrated form 1 2 is particularly adapted for use in making the skirt S and has a generally frustoconical shape and, as shown in Fig. 1, is supported for angular movement in either direction about a vertical axis of rotation 30. A univeral ball joint, indicated at 32, which comprises a part of the form support structure, allows the form 12 to be moved through a range of inclined positions between an axially vertical position, shown in full lines in Fig. 1, and an axially horizontal position relative to its axis of rotation 30 and indicated in broken lines.A drive mechanism, designated by the numeral 34, imparts angular movement to the form 12 in either direction about its axis of rotation 30 and also varies the angle of inclination of the form axis, indicated at 33, relative to the axis of rotation 30 in response to signals received from the programmable controller 1 6.

The form 12 is preferably adjustable so that it may be employed to make garments in a relatively wide range of sizes and which also vary in shape.

The illustrated form 1 2 comprises four axially elongated segments 36, 36, best shown in Fig. 7, supported and arranged around the form axis 33 for radial movement generally toward and away from the axis 33 whereby the form may be expanded or contracted, as necessary, to produce a garment of selected size. Each segment 36 is preferably further supported to pivot about a horizontal axis 38 near its upper end, as it appears oriented in Fig. 4, so that the shape of the form may be varied to make skirts having flares which vary. Another drive unit, indicated by the numeral 40 and shown schematically in Fig. 4, drives mechanism (not shown) for changing the size and/or shape of the form 12 in response to command signals from the controller 1 6.An external input source or keyboard 42 connected to the controller 1 6 enables program changes, so that the size and/or shape of a garment to be made may be readily selected and/or the operational sequence of the apparatus components varied, or otherwise modified, as necessary, to produce a garment within the capability of the apparatus.

Further considering the form 12, a means is provided for releasably retaining pattern pieces in position on the peripheral surface 14. The illustrated apparatus 10 is particularly adapted for making a skirt from fabric which is at least to some degree air impervious, therefore, a zoned vacuum holding system is provided for securing the various pattern pieces in position on the peripheral surface 14. More specifically, each segment 36 is hollow and defines separate upper and lower vacuum chambers 44 and 45, as shown in Fig. 8. Each vacuum chamber is connected by an associated vacuum line and through an associated valve to a vacuum source designated by the numeral 46. Each vacuum chamber is arranged to draw a vacuum over an associated region or zone of the peripheral surface 14.A multiplicity of openings 48, 48 through the peripheral surface of each segment provide communication between each one of the vacuum chambers 44 and 45, and the region of the peripheral surface which it serves.

The illustrated pickup device 22 comprises a vacuum pickup mechanism which includes a plurality of articulated arms 50, 50. Each arm 50 has a pickup element or suction cup 52 mounted at its free end. Each suction cup is connected by an associated vacuum line (not shown) to the vacuum source 46. Valves in the vacuum lines connected to the suction cups operate in response to signals from the controller 1 6 to selectively apply suction to each of the suction cups 52, 52, as required, to pick up, transfer and release a particular pattern piece.

The pickup device 22 is mounted on the manipulator 24 which comprises an articulated arm 54 supported for vertical movement and angular movement in either direction about a vertical axis 56 and about a plurality of other independent axes, substantially as shown in Fig. 6.

The pickup device 22 is connected to the free end of the arm 54 at a universal joint 58. Suitable mechanism (not shown) is provided for moving the articulated arm 54 and the articulated arms 50, 50, which comprise the pickup device 22, to pick up a pattern piece from a stack of pieces positioned near the apparatus, move it to, and position it in selected orientation on the peripheral surface 14 in response to signals received from the controller 1 6.

The illustrated apparatus 10 is particularly adapted for stiching pattern pieces made from materials which may be joined to each other by a heat sealing process or an ultrasonic process.

Accordingly, the tool assembly 1 8 includes a tool 1 9 which may comprise a heated seaming tool 19 or an ultrasonic tool. The tool is employed in a conventional manner to form either a continuous or intermittent stitch between associated portions of adjacent pattern pieces. The seaming tool manipulator 20 which carries the seaming tool assembly 1 8 is generally similar to the pickup tool manipulator 24, previously described, in that it includes an articulated arm 54 which moves in response to signals from the programmable controller 1 6. A universal joint 58 connects the free end of the manipulator arm and the tool assembly 1 8. The manipulator 20 is capable of holding and moving the tool head 1 8 so that it can seam in any attitude. Compound simultaneous movements of the seaming tool assembly 18 and the form 12 enable the seaming tool 19 to trace any desired seam pattern or more to any desired point on the peripheral surface 14.

The construction and arrangement of the pressing tool used to press a finished article on the form wili, of course, be determined by the shape of the form. The illustrated form 12 has a substantially uniform surface configuration, therefore, the pressing tool 26 has a pressing head which includes a heated pad generally shaped to complement an associated portion of the peripheral surface 14. The pressing tool manipulator 28 which carries the pressing tool 26 is substantially identical to the manipulators 20 and 24, previously described.

Preparatory to making an article using the apparatus 10, the pattern pieces or component parts which comprise the article are stacked face down at predetermined locations and in predetermined orientation relative to the apparatus. In making the skirt 10, a single stack of pattern pieces P1, P,' and another stack of pattern pieces P2 is required.

A waistband P2 is first picked up from the stack of waistbands by two of the four gripping elements 52, 52 which are brought into engagement with the rear surface of the uppermost waistband in the stack by the manipulator 24. The two pickup elements grip the waistband near its opposite ends. One of the pickup elements 52 then moves one end of the waistband into a predetermined position of orientation on the form 1 2 and while the other holding element holds the opposite end of the waistband so that the waistband is disposed in generally tangential relation to the form 12.

Thereafter through rotational movement of the form 12 about the vertical axis 30 and simultaneous movement of the pickup arms 50, 50 in response to signals from the controller 16, the waistband is wound onto the upper region of the peripheral surface 14, released by the pickup device 22 and held by vacuum drawn on the upper vacuum chambers 44, 44.

The pickup device 22 is further adjusted in response to signals from the controller 1 6 to engage the upwardly facing rear surface of the uppermost pattern piece P1 in the stack of pattern pieces P1, Per'. The illustrated four suction cups 52, 52 preferably engage and hold the pattern piece P1 near its four corners. The manipulator 24 moves the pickup device 22 to separate the pattern piece from the stack and move it to a generally vertically disposed position and into engagement with the form 1 2. Manipulator movement is preferably programmed so that engagement between the peripheral surface 14 and the pattern piece P1 occurs along a generally vertically disposed line of contact which bisects the pattern piece.Upon engagement of the pattern piece with the form the articulated pickup arms 50, 50 move inwardly toward each other while the form remains in a stationary position and the manipulator moves the pickup device toward the form 12 in response to signals from the controller thereby wrapping the pattern piece P1 upon the form. When the pattern piece is properly positioned on the form 1 2 with its upper marginal portion overlying an associated portion of the waistband P2, vacuum is drawn on the lower vacuum chambers 45, 45 of the associated form segments and the vacuum to the suction cups 52, 52 is interrupted to release the pattern piece, all in response to signals from the controller 1 6.

After the first pattern piece P1, which has been positioned on the peripheral surface 14, the vertically oriented form 12 is rotated 1 80 degrees about its axis of rotation 30 and the substantially identical second pattern piece P1' is applied to the form 12 in a like manner, so that the associated generally vertically extending marginal portions of the pattern pieces Pa, P1, are disposed in overlapping relation. The form 12 is then rotated about its axis of rotation, as necessary to present the overlapping marginal portion to the seaming tool 18.The seaming tool 1 8 then moves in seaming relation with the pattern pieces in response to command signals from the controller 1 6. When the first seam has been completed, the form 1 2 is rotated 1 80 degrees about its axis 30 by the drive unit 34 and the second vertically disposed seam is completed in the same manner.

It will be understood that the tool assembly 1 8 which forms the seams may have suitable fellers or seam folders which lead the seaming tool and fold the seam forming marginal portion of either or both of the pattern pieces inwardly and onto itself as the tool advances so that selvage will not be exposed at the face or outer side of the finished garment. Such seam folding devices are well known in the art.

The tool assembly 18 may also be used to stitch or otherwise form a hem to finish the skirt S.

A suitable hem forming device (not shown) will, of course, be provided as part of the tool assembly.

Further, in this embodiment of the invention the finished garment is pressed on the form 1 2 by the pressing tool 26 which moves in engagement with the garment in response composite movement of the form 1 2 and the pressing tool manipulator 28.

Thereafter the finished garment is removed from the form 12 and turned inside out to its normal wearing position.

Referring now to Fig. 9, there is shown another embodiment of the invention indicated generally at 1 0a and particularly adapted for forming articles from porous fabrics and the like. The embodiment 1 Oa differs from the embodiment 10 in the construction and arrangement of the form and the means for holding the various pattern pieces in predetermined position thereon. More specifically, the form, indicated generally at 1 2a, includes a section 36a which forms a part of the peripheral surface 1 4a. The surface 1 4a is coated with a tacky substance, as for example, a pressure sensitive adhesive designated by the numeral 15, so that pattern pieces positioned on the form by a pickup device and manipulator (not shown) are adhered to the form. A tacky surface coating may be sprayed onto or otherwise applied to the form periodically to maintain its holding characteristic.

The illustrated tool assembly 1 spa comprises a glueing head particularly adapted to form glued or cemented seams. The illustrated glueing head includes a tool or glueing nozzle 1 9a through which a suitable adhesive is ejected in response to signals from a controller. The operation of the apparatus 1 Oa is similar to the operation of the apparatus 10, previously described, however, the sequence in which the operations are performed may differ somewhat, because the cemented seams are preferably formed by applying glue between adjacent overlapping marginal portions of associated pattern pieces. Thus, in forming a seam with the apparatus disclosed in Fig. 1 Oa, a first pattern piece is first applied to the form.

Adhesive is then applied to one or more of the marginal portions of the first pattern. Thereafter, the a second pattern piece is moved into position on the form by a pickup device and its associated manipulator and positioned with its seam forming edge or edges in overlying relation with the associated adhesive coated marginal edge portions of the first pattern piece.

In Fig. 10 there is shown a still further embodiment of the invention indicated at 1 Ob, for forming a garment having conventional sewn seams. The apparatus 1 Ob includes a tool assembly 1 8b which comprises a conventional sewing head and which includes a needle 1 9a and associated bobbin attachment 21 for forming a lock-type stitch.

In order to accommodate the bobbin, the entire peripheral surface of the form 1 Ob, or at least that portion of the surface in the region where seams are to be formed is defined by a bristle bed 23 or, more specifically, the free end portions of bristles which define the bed 23. As the sewing head 1 8b is advanced by its associated manipulator, bristles in the path of the bobbin attachment 21 will be deflected so that the bobbin may travel freely through the bristle bed while operating in a conventional manner. A suitable deflector (not shown) may be provided forward of the bobbin. As shown in Fig. 10, openings 48b, 48b through the base of the bristle bed 23 communicate with a vacuum chamber 27 within the form whereby pattern pieces positioned on the peripheral surface may be retained thereon by vacuum, in a manner well known in the art.

Claims (26)

1. Apparatus for making three-dimensional articles from pattern pieces of sheet material and comprising a form including a peripheral surface having a three-dimensional shape corresponding to the shape of an article to be formed for supporting pattern pieces spread thereon, attaching tool means for joining associated portions of pattern pieces to each other along a line of attachment, a programmable controller, and means for moving said attaching tool means relative to said peripheral surface and in working relation to pattern pieces spread on said peripheral surface in response to signals from said controller to join associated portions of the pattern pieces to each other along a line of attachment which complements an associated portion of said peripheral surface.

2. Apparatus as set forth in claim 1 wherein said attaching tool means comprises a stitching tool.

3. Apparatus as set forth in claim 2 wherein said stitching tool comprises a sewing tool.

4. Apparatus as set forth in claim 3 wherein said sewing tool is further characterized as a tool for forming a lock stitch.

5. Apparatus as set forth in claim 1 wherein said attaching tool means comprises a glueing tool.

6. Apparatus as set forth in claim 1 wherein said attaching tool means comprises a heat sealing tool.

7. Apparatus as set forth in claim 2 wherein said means for moving said attaching tool means comprises a manipulator having an articulated arm movable about a plurality of independent axes and said attaching tool means is carried by said arm.

8. Apparatus as set forth in claim 1 including means for releasably securing said pattern pieces on said peripheral surface.

9. Apparatus as set forth in claim 8 wherein said peripheral surface is tacky and comprises said securing means.

10. Apparatus as set forth in claim 8 wherein said securing means is further characterized as vacuum holddown means.

1 Apparatus as set forth in claim 1 including means for positioning a pattern piece in a predetermined position of orientation on said peripheral surface in response to signals from said programmable controller.

12. Apparatus as set forth in claim 11 wherein said positioning means is further characterized as means for picking up a pattern piece and positioning it on said peripheral surface.

1 3. Apparatus as set forth in claim 11 wherein said positioning means is further characterized as a pattern piece pickup device and a manipulator having an articulated arm movable about a plurality of independent axes in response to signals for said controller and carrying said pattern piece pickup device.

14. Apparatus as set forth in claim 1 including pressing means movable in pressing relation to pattern pieces spread on said peripheral surface in response to signals from said programmable controller for removing wrinkles from the pattern pieces.

1 5. Apparatus as set forth in claim 14 wherein said pressing means comprises a pressing head and a manipulator including an articulated arm movable about a plurality of independent axes and carrying said pressing head.

1 6. Apparatus as set forth in claim 1 wherein said attaching tool means is further characterized as ultrasonic tool means.

17. Apparatus for making three-dimensional articles from pattern pieces of sheet material and comprising a form including a peripheral surface having a three-dimensional shape corresponding to the shape of an article to be formed for supporting pattern pieces spread thereon, means for releasably securing pattern pieces on said peripheral surface, a programmable controller, means for picking up pattern pieces and sequentially positioning the pieces on said peripheral surface in predetermined positions of orientation relative to said surface in response to signals from said programmable controller, seaming tool means for forming a seam to join associated portions of pattern pieces to each other, and tool manipulating means for moving said seaming tool relative to said peripheral surface and in working relation to the pattern pieces spread thereon in response to signals from said controller to join associated portions of said pattern pieces.

18. Apparatus as set forth in claim 1 7 wherein said positioning means comprises pattern piece pickup means for gripping and releasably holding the pattern piece and a first manipulator having an articulated arm movable about a plurality of axes and carrying said pattern piece pickup means.

19. Apparatus as set forth in claim 1 7 wherein said tool manipulating means comprises a manipulator having an articulated arm movable about a plurality of independent axes and said seaming tool means is carried by said arm.

20. Apparatus as set forth in claim 1 9 wherein said seaming tool means comprises a stitching tool.

21. Apparatus as set forth in claim 20 wherein said stitching tool comprises a sewing mechanism for forming a lock stitch.

22. Apparatus as set forth in claim 19 wherein said seaming tool means is further characterized as ultrasonic tool means.

23. Apparatus according to claim 1 substantially as described herein with reference to the accompanying drawings.

24. Apparatus for making three-dimensional articles from pattern pieces of sheet material substantially as described herein with reference to the accompanying drawings.

25. A method for making three-dimensional articles from pattern pieces of sheet material employing apparatus as claimed in any one of the preceding claims.

26. Apparatus for making three-dimensional articles from pattern pieces comprising any novel feature or combination of features disclosed herein.