GB2033434A - A process for the dyeing of wool treated with an anti-felting agent - Google Patents

A process for the dyeing of wool treated with an anti-felting agent Download PDF

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GB2033434A
GB2033434A GB7936456A GB7936456A GB2033434A GB 2033434 A GB2033434 A GB 2033434A GB 7936456 A GB7936456 A GB 7936456A GB 7936456 A GB7936456 A GB 7936456A GB 2033434 A GB2033434 A GB 2033434A
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dyeing
carried out
wool
range
azo dye
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Hoechst AG
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Hoechst AG
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/14Wool
    • D06P3/20Wool using mordant dyes using metallisable dyes

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

A process for the dyeing of wool which has been treated with an anti-felting agent using a metal complex of an azo dye which contains at least one sulphonic acid and/or at least one sulphonate group and in the presence of in the range of from 10 to 15% by weight (based on the weight of dry goods) of a non-colouring, inert, neutral alkali metal salt. This enables dyeing to be carried out at, e.g. 70-85 DEG C, when previously the dyeing of such wool had to be carried out at the boiling temperature of the dyebath to ensure a level and fast colouration. Dyeing at this temperature not only strained and hardened the wool fibres but was also costly in terms of heating energy.

Description

SPECIFICATION A process for the dyeing of wool treated with an anti-felting agent The present invention relates to the uniform fast dyeing of wool coated with an anti-felting agent.
Hitherto, wool fibres that had been subjected to an "anti-felt" finishing process to render them machine-washable, i.e. "superwash" treated wool, could only be uniformly dyed to give deep shades and a satisfactory wet-fastness with fibre-reactive dyes. A textile article pre-treated in the above manner is resistant to the rather severe strain imposed thereon during repeated washing at substantially 60"C with perborate-containing household detergents as, for example, during machine-washing, without felting and also has a satisfactory colour-fastness because of this resistance (this property is not required from untreated wool because it would not be washed in this way and it would also not be able to behave in this way).Wool fibres coated, for example, with plastics such as a polyimine or polyacrylic resin (cf. inter alia Melliand Textilberichte 9/1971, page 1100 or Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists (JSDC), volume 88, No. 3/1972, pages 93-100) have a completely different behaviour during dyeing to that of wool fibres not coated with such resins. This different behaviour may be attributed to the fact that, because of the anti-felt coating, new groups are formed which have an affinity for fibre-reactive dyestuffs.
The finish is applied onto the fibres as a film and as such distinctly increases the affinity of the fibres for the dyestuffs. This means that to give a good fibre and surface leveling of the dyeings it is necessary to develop a suitable dyeing process and to select suitable auxiliaries and dyestuffs which have optimum properties for dyeing. This prerequisite is the more imperative, because of the differences in affinity due to the material used, which occur characteristically with polyamide fibres, which differences are increased by conventional anti-felting operations or by felt-impairing wool treatment.
The use of metal complex dyes has generally proved advantageous hitherto for the production of deep shades but only when exhaustion dyeing processes are carried out at boiling temperature. At lower temperatures, for example at 85"C, the dyebath exhaustion on dyeing both of normal wool and of wool with an anti-felt finish is not satisfactory. In such cases also the degree of the fixation of the dyestuffs is not sufficient and wool fibres dyed in this manner exhibit a lower colour depth than those dyed at boiling temperatures. A further disadvantage of dyeing at these lower temperatures is that the fastness properties of the resulting colourations are also distinctly lower because of superficially deposited dyestuff particles which are later removed during further processing and because of the unsatisfactory fixation of the dyestuffs onto the wool fibres.
Attempts have been made to carry out continuous dyeing processes with hot-storage and hotpadding- hot-dwelling techniques, to enable piece goods mainly made of untreated wool to be dyed with metal complex dyestuffs at a temperature of below 1 00 C. Research work in this field produced processes of this kind which were suitable for use with exhaustion processes in practice; however, these attempts failed for economic reasons.
There is a need for an exhaustion process for the dyeing of wool fibres having a polyimine or polyacrylic resin anti-felt finish using metal complex dyes, which can be carried out at a temperature below the boiling point of the dyeing medium. There is an especial need to produce, by such an exhaustion process, deep shades on woollen goods which comply with the obligatory specifications for Superwash knitted goods and hand-knitting yarn of the International Wool Secretariat, Department IWS Mark AG, especially the wet-fastness as given by IWS-TM 1 74 (the test method for fastness to alkaline perspiration) and by IWS-TM 1 93 (the test method for fastness to washing).
The present invention provides a process for the dyeing of wool coated with an anti-felting agent which comprises dyeing the wool with a metal complex of an azo dye which contains at least one sulphonic acid and/or at least one sulphonate group and in the presence of in the range of from 10 to 15% by weight (based on the weight of dry goods) of a non-colouring, inert, neutral alkali metal salt.
Suitable dyestuffs for this process are 1:2 metal complexes of non-fibre-reactive azo dyes (one or more metal complexes may be used) i.e. complex compounds wherein either 2 molecules of the same azo dye or one molecule of each of two different azo dyes are bound to one metal atom to form a complex compound. The azo dyes employed are preferably non-fibre-reactive dyes. The complex compound may contain, for example, one diazo dye and one monoazo dye or, preferably, two of the same or different monoazo dyestuffs.These complexes contain either one or two sulphonic acid (- SO3H) or sulphonate (- SO3M wherein M denotes a salt-forming group) groups per molecule of azo dyestuff, which groups may be spread over the complex in any suitable manner; preferably, however, there are one or two sulpho groups bound to each of the azo dyes, preferably bound to aromatic radicals of the chromophore. The metal complex forming groups in these azo dyes are preferably O,O'-dihydroxyazo groups or O-hydroxy-O'-carboxyazo groups, or suitably O-hydroxy-O'-carboxymethoxy azo/or O-hydroxy-O'- aminoazo groups. Suitable metal atoms in these dyestuffs are chromium, cobalt, copper or nickel.
Dyestuffs of this kind are known and listed in the Colour Index, 3rd edition 1971 as "Acid Dyes".
1:2 Metal complex dyes wherein the above-mentioned sulphonic acid or sulphonate groups have been partially replaced by carboxylic acid (-COOH) or carbonate groups (-COOM wherein M is as defined above) which do not participate in complex formation may also be used in the process of the invention. These groups may be considered as hydrosolubilising groups.
For example by the process of the invention wool having an anti-felt finish may be dyed from a slightly acid medium with an aqueous solution of one or more 1:2 metal complex dyes containing non-fibre-reactive azo dyes wherein in each azo molecule there are one or two sulphonic acid groups or sulphonate groups, in the presence of from 10 to 15% by weight (based on the weight of dry wool) of a non-colouring inert, neutrally reacting alkali metal salt at a temperature of from 70 to 85"C, by the exhaustion process. An exhaustion process carried out in this way is substantially complete after a period of from 45 to 90 minutes. The resulting dyeings are substantially level and distinguished by a good dyestuff penetration.
Suitable alkali metal salts are sodium chloride (common salt) or sodium sulphate (Glauber's salt). It was not to be expected that higher quantities of salt as compared with those otherwise used in the usual exhaustion process would allow a temperature reduction in the process of the invention generally to about even less than 80"C.
Preferably the process of the invention is carried out in a slightly acid medium, i.e. below a pH of 7.0, for example at a pH in the range of from 5.0 to below 7.0. The process is also preferably carried out at a temperature substantially below the boiling point of the dyeing medium, more preferably at a temperature in the range of from 70 to 85"C, especially 77 to 80"C.
One advantage of the process of the invention is the economy saving given because the heating period to the lower dyeing temperature is shorter than that required to the boiling temperature of the bath. The dyebath can be heated to a dyeing temperature in the range of from 77 to 80"C in 30 to 40 minutes, whilst previously heating up to the boil needed at least 60 minutes. This signifies a shortening and simplification of the conventional exhaustion processes.
A further advantage of the process of the invention is that the goods are treated under very mild conditions. At temperatures below the boiling temperature the dyebath remains reasonably still and the wool fibres undergo less strain at a temperature in the range of from 70 to 85 C, for example, than at boiling temperature. The dyebath does not bubble continuously in the process of the invention entangling the hanks; in fact the fibres are hardly moved remaining in parallel positions. The dyed wool also has a very soft feel, since there is not the hardening of the fibres as normally given by dyeing at boiling temperature. Therefore softeners need not be used.
Another advantage of the process of the invention is that wool fat remains on the fibre during the dyeing at low temperatures so that further finishing operations may be dispensed with.
The method according to the invention involving an omission of any kind of levelling agent in the exhaustion bath, an increase of the salt concentration in the dyebath as compared to conventional methods and a reduction of the dyeing temperatures from the boiling temperature to a temperature of, for example, 70"C was not to be expected for it is generally known that an addition of salt during the dyeing of wool usually has a retarding action on the fixation of the dyestuffs. It is further known that an addition of Glauber's salt to the dyebath in wool dyeing processes using fibre-reactive dyes in most cases strongly impairs the levelling of the resulting dyeings below boiling temperature because Glauber's salt impairs the affinity of these dyestuffs (cf. Melliand Textilberichte 11/1976, 5/1974, pages 458-462 and Textilveredlung 11/1976, pages 250-254).Furthermore a well-known method for brightening wool dyeings consists of boiling dyed wool with 1 5 to 25% of Glauber's salt. Thus a technical prejudice had to be surmounted in order to carry out dyeing in the presence of such quantities of salt in the exhaustion bath. Moreover, woollen flocks, tops and yarn had been dyed hitherto with metal complex dyes without the addition of salt as a levelling agent. A dyestuff retardant is not necessary under the dyeing conditions of the invention.
It has moreover been found that the fastness properties of the dyeings on wool having an anti-felt finish using metal complex dyes by the process of the invention may be improved by subjecting the dyeing, upon completion of the actual dyeing process and usually without an intermediate drying stage, to an after-treatment with an aqueous solution of ammonia for 10 to 30 minutes at a temperature in the range of from 40 to 60"C.
This after-treatment of the dyeings with the metal complex dyes is carried out either in the exhausted dyebath, i.e. without change of the dyebath, or in a fresh after-treatment bath. If desired, dispersing agents can be added to the after-treatment bath. The quantity of ammonia (strength: 25%) may vary, for example, in the range of from 0.1 to 3 cm3/l, preferably in the range of from 0.5 to 2 cam3/1. By the addition of ammonia slightly alkaline conditions prevail in the after-treatment. After this treatment the dyed goods are rinsed and acidified.
An after-treatment with ammonia has previously only been carried out at substantially the boiling temperature of the dyebath and it is thus extremely surprising that the process of the invention enables this after-treatment to be carried out at a temperature in the range of from 40 to 60"C, i.e. under conditions which are very mild for wool fibres. Nevertheless this enormous improvement of fastness to wetting can be achieved. It was not to be expected that this aftertreatment would yield these results in a low temperature-dyeing process, for generally in a treatment of this kind even when only under slightly alkaline conditions, major parts of dyestuff that have adhered superficially when applied at low temperature in the exhaustion bath are detached from the fibres.From this it can be deduced that the metal complex dye applied onto the fibres by the process of the invention must have been fixed firmly onto the wool fibre.
The proecess of the invention makes it possible to dye yarns or tops treated with an antifelting agent, for example, polyimine or polyacrylic resins, or to dye any textiles produced with these wool fibres. The process is also suitable for the dyeing of similarly treated wool fibre portion of a fibre blend.
The following Examples illustrate the invention: EXAMPLE 1: Knitting yarn of wool coated with an anti-felting agent in accordance with the method specified in the JSDC, volume 88/3, pages 93-100, was dyed at a goods-to-liquor ratio of 1:20 (weight:volume) in the following manner: The aqueous 40"C hot dyebath was supplemented with 4% by weight (based on the weight of dry goods) of ammonium sulphate, the pH of the bath was adjusted with acetic acid to a value of approximately 5 and thereafter 11 % by weight (based on the weight of goods) of sodium chloride were added. Then the goods to be dyes were introduced into the bath and contacted with the bath in motion for about 5 minutes at 40"C. Next, 2% by weight (based on the weight of the goods) of the 1:2 chrome complex dye Acid Violet 90 (C.l.No. 18,762) were dissolved in water and added to the dyebath. The dyebath was heated to a temperature of 80"C for 30 minutes and the fibre material dyed for 60 minutes at this temperature.
Next the dyed wool was rinsed with water at 50"C and subsequently the dyeing was treated with 2% by weight (based on the weight of goods) of an aqueous ammonia solution (strength: 25%) in a fresh bath for 20 minutes at 35"C.
By the above procedure a bordeaux dyeing having a standard depth of 1/1 was obtained on the wool yarn.
When using 3.3% by weight (based on the weight of goods) of the blue 1:2 chrome complex dye Acid Blue 193 (C.l. No. 15, 707), a blue colouration having similar characteristics was obtained.
EXAMPLE 2: The dyeing process was carried out analogously to Example 1, except that wool tops that had been coated with an anti-felting agent (according to the method described in Textilveredlung 11, (1976), No. 6 pages 214-219, and in Wool Science Review, volume 54, pages 2 etseq., and volume 55, pages 23 et seq.) were dyed at a goods-to-liquor-ratio of 1:1 5 with 2% by weight (based on the weight of goods) of the yellow, 1:2 cobalt complex compound of the dyestuff of the formula
The dyed tops were then subjected to after-treatment using an ammonia solution as described in Example 1. A very fast, level dyeing of a somewhat dull yellow of a standard depth of about 1/1 was obtained.
EXAMPLE 3: Wool dyeing was carried out in the manner described in Example 1, on made-up knitted garments coated with an anti-felting agent according to the method described in Textilverdlung 11 (1976), No. 6, pages 214-219 and in Wool Science Review, volume 54, pages 2 etseq.
and volume 55, pages 23 et seq. The garments were dyed at a goods-to-liquor ratio of 1:1 8 in a paddle dyeing machine using 2% by weight (based on the weight of goods) of the brown 1:2 chrome complex compound of the dyestuff of the formula
A level brown colouration of medium depth of colour resulted in this case without any aftertreatment with an ammonia solution.
Further Examples By following the procedure described in Examples 1, 2 and 3 but with the use of the metal complex dyes listed hereinafter similarly good results were obtained. However, the scope of the present invention is not limited to the dyestuffs listed in the Table.
Example Dyestuff Goods-to- Dyeing Shade liquor ratio tanpe- rature
4) 4 : 20 850C orange 1:2 dirane complex 5) C1 1 : 14 820C red )J3S C1 L 1:2 drone complex 6} 1: 17 79 C burden Ho3S- N N Cl 1:2 chrome complex 7) 1 1 : 19 7800 bron HQ iK /\N fl HO3 t Cl OH ssN = Nt b 3 iN 2 ji3C Mixed c:hronzation of I aad II in a ratio of 1:2

Claims (29)

1. A process for the dyeing of wool coated with an anti-felting agent, which comprises dyeing the wool with a metal complex of an azo dye which contains at least one sulphuric acid and/or at least one sulphonate group and in the presence of in the range of from 10 to 15% by weight (based on the weight of dry goods) of a non-colouring, inert, neutral alkali metal salt.
2. A process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the wool was previously treated with a polyimine or a polyacrylic resin.
3. A process as claimed in claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the azo dye is a non-fibre-reactive azo dye.
4. A process as claimed in claims 1 to 3, wherein the azo dye is a monoazo dye.
5. A process as claimed in claims 1 to 4, wherein the metal complex forming group in the azo dye is an 0, O'-dihydroazo or O-hydroxy-O'-carboxyazo group.
6. A process as claimed inclaims 1 to 5, wherein the metal complex is a 1:2 metal complex of an azo dye.
7. A process as claimed in claims 1 to 6, wherein the metal in the metal complex is chromium, cobalt, copper or nickel.
8. A process as claimed in claims 1 to 7, wherein there is at least one sulphonic acid or sulphonate group per azo dye.
9. A process as claimed in claim 8, wherein there is at least one sulphonic acid or sulphonate group bound to a molecule of azo dye.
10. A process as claimed in claim 9, wherein the sulphonic acid or sulphonate group is bound to an aromatic ring.
11. A process as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein part of sulphonic acid/sulphonate groups present in the metal complex has been replaced by one or more carboxylic acid/carbonate groups with do not participate in the complex formation.
12. A process as claimed in claim 1 to 11, wherein the dyeing is carried out at a pH in the range of from 5.0 to 7.0.
1 3. A process as claimed in claims 1 to 12, wherein the dyeing is carried out at a temperature in the range of from 70 to 85"C.
14. A process as claimed in claim 13, wherein the dyeing is carried out at a temperature in the range of from 77 to 80"C.
1 5. A process as claimed in claims 1 to 14, wherein the dyeing is carried out by the exhaustion method of dyeing.
16. A process as claimed in claim 1 5, wherein the exhaustion dyeing phase is carried out in the absence of a retarding and/or levelling agent.
1 7. A process as claimed in claim 1 5 or claim 16, wherein the exhaustion dyeing phase is carried out for in the range of from 45 to 90 minutes.
1 8. A process as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 17, wherein the dyeing is carried out in the presence of sodium chloride or of sodium sulphate (Glauber's salt).
19. A process as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 18, wherein the dyeings are treated after the completion of the dyeing operating with an aqueous solution of ammonia at a temperature in the range of from 40 to 60"C.
20. A process as claimed in claim 19, wherein in the range of from 0.1 to 3 cm3/l, of ammonia (strength: 25%) is used.
21. A process as claimed in claim 20, wherein in the range of from 0.5 to 2 cm3/l of ammonia is used.
22. A process as claimed in any one of claims 19 to 21, wherein one or more dispersing agents are added to the ammonia solution.
23. A process as claimed in any one of claims 1 9 to 22, wherein the after-treatment is carried out in the same dyeing bath after exhaustion of the dyebath.
24. A process as claimed in any one of claims 1 9 to 22, wherein the after-treatment is carried out in a freshly prepared bath.
25. A process as claimed in any one of claims 1 9 to 24, wherein the after-treatment is carried out for in the range of from 10 to 30 minutes.
26. A process as claimed in claim 1 carried out substantially as described in any one of the Examples herein.
27. Wool fibres whenever dyed by a process as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 26.
28. Woollen flock, top or yarn whenever dyed by a process as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 26.
29. Knitted woollen goods whenever dyed by a process as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 26.
GB7936456A 1978-10-19 1979-10-19 Process for the dyeing of wool treated with an antifelting agent Expired GB2033434B (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE2845516A DE2845516B1 (en) 1978-10-19 1978-10-19 Process for uniform real dyeing of felt-free finished wool with metal complex dyes

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GB2033434A true GB2033434A (en) 1980-05-21
GB2033434B GB2033434B (en) 1983-01-06

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AU (1) AU529822B2 (en)
BE (1) BE879524A (en)
DE (1) DE2845516B1 (en)
FR (1) FR2439258A1 (en)
GB (1) GB2033434B (en)
IT (1) IT1123894B (en)
NL (1) NL7907701A (en)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3506654A1 (en) * 1985-02-26 1986-08-28 Hoechst Ag, 6230 Frankfurt LOW TEMPERATURE COLORING PROCESS FOR WOOL FIBERS

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE78928C (en) * FARBWERKE VORM. MEISTER LUCIUS & BRÜNING, Höchst a. M Process for dyeing wool with nitro, chlorine and bromine derivatives of alizarin dyes
US3043648A (en) * 1955-12-09 1962-07-10 Sandoz Ltd Process for the fast dyeing of natural and artificial polyamide fibers with water-soluble metal-containing azo dyestuffs

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IT7926576A0 (en) 1979-10-17
FR2439258B1 (en) 1983-05-27
FR2439258A1 (en) 1980-05-16
IT1123894B (en) 1986-04-30
GB2033434B (en) 1983-01-06
AU5192479A (en) 1980-04-24
DE2845516B1 (en) 1980-03-13
BE879524A (en) 1980-04-21
NL7907701A (en) 1980-04-22
AU529822B2 (en) 1983-06-23

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