GB2030602A

GB2030602A - Cut-pile Fabric and Method and Apparatus for Producing Same

Info

Publication number: GB2030602A
Application number: GB7915704A
Authority: GB
Original assignee: GUTSCHMITT A
Current assignee: GUTSCHMITT A
Priority date: 1978-05-11
Filing date: 1979-05-04
Publication date: 1980-04-10
Also published as: IT7922633A0; JPS54151672A; FR2425492A1; BR7902849A; DE2918903A1; ES480489A1; GB2030602B; IT1113967B; DD143637A5

Abstract

A circular knitting machine has a needle cylinder and a dial carrying elements 60 each with a cutting edge 64 adjacent a yarn supporting edge so that during knitting pile yarns are placed over elements 60 which are then manipulated to cut the pile yarns. During outward movement of the elements 60 for edges 64 to cut the yarn, the loops are held against a serrated surface 116 of the dial by the curved surface of a stationary presser bar 120. There may be two elements in each dial pick and the pile loops may be found alternatively on these. In another arrangement long and short needles and long and short elements are used and a sort of interlock fabric is produced. <IMAGE>

Description

SPECIFICATION Cut-pile Fabric and Method and Apparatus for Producing Same Knitted velour is a plush knit construction produced by knitting two yarns in plating relationship, one yarn forming pile loops which appear on the plush surface of the fabric and the other yarn forming the base of the fabric. Velour has traditionally been produced on circular knitting machines using specially constructed sinkers capable of forming loops on two levels.

Two yarns are fed to the knitting needles, the yarn which is to form the plush or pile loops being fed over the top loop forming level of the sinker and the base yarn being fed over the lower loop forming level. In this manner, loops of two different heights are created, the shorter loops forming the base and appearing on the plain side of the finished fabric and the longer loops forming the surface or pile loops which appear on the purl side of the finished fabric.The knitted fabric produced by the above-described method is typically designated as terry cloth, which is further processed after knitting is completed to produce velour by shearing of the longer surface pile loops, i.e. cutting off the top portion of each loop thereby leaving two cut pile ends extending outwardly from the fabric surface and being anchored in the base by virtue of having been knit in plating relationship with the base yarn. Brushing or napping of the fabric may be performed either for the purpose of breaking the surface loops, thus serving as a substitute for shearing, or as an additional step subsequent to shearing to raise the individuai fibers in the cut ends to enhance the plush surface effect and feel of velour.

Tigering may also be desirable to remove surplus fiber strands from the napped fabric surface.

Although the foregoing known methods produce desirable results, there are significant disadvantages. Substantial labor and production costs are inherently involved in performing the finishing steps of shearing, brushing and tigering and there is a significant fiber waste resulting from the shearing and napping procedures. In fact, in conventional velour production as much as 2025% of the pile yarn knitted is sheared and thrown away. Compounding this problem is the fact that the shearing process involves the risk of failing to shear some of the plush loops, especially when one is attempting to reduce the amount of fiber waste by shearing at a reduced nap depth.

Because of this, it is often necessary to perform the shearing step twice to achieve first quality velour fabric. Alternatively, the danger of damaging the fabric exists when shearing is performed at a greater nap depth or more than once in an attempt to insure the shearing of all pile loops. A still further disadvantage is that, because of the necessary shearing step in producing velour, polyester velour generally cannot feasibly be produced due to the excessive dulling effect that polyester yarn has on the shearing blades of the typical shearing machine.

Finally, in conventional velour knitting, great attention must be paid to the nature of the loops formed and to the type of yarn used to form the pile loops since the torque of the pile yarn can cause significant problems in shearing the pile loops. If the torque or twist of the pile yarn is too great, the pile loops will tend to spiral after leaving the loop forming sinkers. This spiraling effect makes shearing of the pile loops more difficult in that the loops themselves become harder to shear and in that the loops are less prone to extend outwardly from the fabric surface thereby increasing the likely number of unsheared loops.

In contrast, the present invention provides a novel method and apparatus for producing velour in which the pile loops of the fabric are cut at the top of each loop during the knitting cycle. The shearing step may be entirely eliminated, while at the same time virtually no fiber waste is involved thereby greatly reducing production costs. While shearing of velour fabric produced by the present invention may sometimes be desirable as a cleaning step, only one shearing would be necessary and only approximately 5% of the pile yarn would be cut and thrown away. Additionally, under the present invention every loop is cut, thereby substantially eliminating unsheared loops as a cause of defective cloth.Since the pile loops are cut at the crest of each loop, the size of the pile loop which must be formed to achieve the same pile height as produced on conventional machines is also decreased, thereby allowing still further reductions in the amount of yarn used. On the other hand, because less loop yarn is cut away in the finishing procedures by using the invention herein described, the resultant cut ends may be made significantly higher if desired without increasing conventional velour production costs.

Additionally, fabric producers are no longer limited to producing cotton velour since, according to the present invention, the dulling effect involved in the cutting of synthetic fibers is greatly reduced. Finally, since the pile loops are cut during the knitting operation and before any twisting or spiraling of the loops occurs, the torque of the pile yarn becomes immaterial, thus a wider range of yarn types may be used in employing the present invention.

By virtue of performing the cutting operation during the knitting operation, it also becomes feasible to produce knitted velour in fabric patterns other than the plain jersey pattern conventionally used. For conventional velour production, in order to properly shear the pile loops of the knitted fabric, it is necessary that the loops extend substantially perpendicularly from the fabric surface to facilitate uniform shearing and, therefore, a high density of pile loops in the knitted fabric is desirable, if not necessary, for successful shearing, the high density of loops giving greater lateral support to the pile loops.

Because of this, a single or plain jersey stitch pattern is used almost exclusively in conventional velour production in order to achieve maximum pile loop density. In contrast, since, according to the present invention, pile loops are cut during the knitting operation the density of the pile of the knitted fabric is not a limiting factor, thus, a much wider variety of stitch patterning becomes available to the velour fabric producer in employing the present invention. It therefore becomes possible to produce cut pile fabrics using stitch patterns employing significantly fewer needles per inch than plain jersey or stitch patterns in which only selected needles participate in the knitting of any one course. As a result, much weaker yarns or yarns with a softer twist may be used to form the pile loops since a lesser number of needles will be acting on the pile yarn at any one time.On the other hand, considerably higher pile loops may be formed than is possible using a plain jersey stitch pattern since the number of needles putting tension on the pile loops will be reduced. A softer plusher fabric is therefore possible. Additionally, by employing heretofore unconventional stitch patterns in producing velour, surface color effects (e.g. a tweed effect) may be achieved merely by employing different color pile yarns. In contrast, only coursewise stripe effects may be produced in using different color yarns in jersey pattern.

The present invention provides a process and apparatus for producing knitted velour fabric on a conventional circular knitting machine having a cylinder containing a plurality of cylinder needles and a dial containing a plurality of dial elements radially movable between the cylinder needles, each of the dial elements having a yarn cutting edge and a yarn supporting surface adjacent thereto. A yarn for forming pile loops and a yarn for forming fabric base loops are fed simultaneously to the cylinder needles, the pile loop forming yarn being fed above the yarn supporting surfaces of said dial elements and the fabric base loop forming yarn being fed below the dial elements.The cylinder needles are moved downwardly from their yarn receiving position by conventional camming means, drawing both yarns into the hooks of the needles and drawing needle loops of each yarn through the needle loops of the previously formed course, the pile loop forming yarn being retained on the yarn supporting surfaces of the dial elements during the needle movement, thereby effecting the formation of a pile loop over each dial element.

The pile loops formed over the dial elements are retained thereon until the needle loops of the same course are cast off the cylinder needles.

Once the needle loops are cast off the cylinder needles, the dial elements are moved radially outwardly by conventional camming means to advance the dial element cutting edges against the pile loops retained thereon thereby cutting the pile loops at their crest to form cut pile ends.

According to one specific embodiment of the present invention, the casting off of said needle loops is performed by knitting a single jersey course of fabric base loop forming yarn subsequent to the aforementioned combined pile loop and base loop knitting.

According to a second specific embodiment, the dial elements are arranged in pairs, with each pair being radially movable between adjacent cylinder needles. In practising this embodiment, two yarns are fed to and knitted by each cylinder needle as aforementioned, forming pile loops over the first dial element of each pair of dial elements while the other dial element is out of action. The pile loops are then retained on the first dial elements, while two yarns are fed to and knitted by each cylinder needle, forming pile loops over the second dial element of each pair of dial elements and casting off the needle loops formed by the first double yarn course. The first dial elements are then moved radially outwardly to advance the cutting edges thereof against the pile loops formed thereover and retained thereon, thereby cutting the pile loops to form cut pile ends.In each succeeding cycle, the pile loops of the second double yarn course are retained on the second dial elements of each pair of dial elements until the knitting of the first double yarn course is completed thereby casting off the needle loops formed by the second double yarn course, at which time the second dial elements are moved radially outwardly to advance the cutting edges thereof against the pile loops formed thereover and retained thereon.

In accordance with a third specific embodiment of the present invention, alternate cylinder needles are formed with commonly located control butts and intermediate cylinder needles are formed with other commonly located control butts; alternate dial elements are formed with commonly located control butts and intermediate dial elements are formed with other commonly located control butts. In practising this embodiment, two yarns are fed to and knitted by each alternate cylinder needle as aforementioned, i.e. one yarn being fed above the dial elements and one below, forming first pile loops over each alternate dial element. While the first pile loops are retained over the alternate dial elements, two yarns are fed to and knitted by each intermediate needle in the same manner, forming second pile loops over the alternate dial elements. While retaining the first and the second pile loops on the alternate dial elements, two yarns are fed to and knitted by each alternate needle, forming third pile loops over the intermediate dial elements and casting off the needle loops formed by the alternate needles in the first double yarn course.

While retaining the first and second pile loops over the alternate dial elements and the third pile loops over the intermediate dial elements, two yarns are fed to and knitted by each intermediate needle, forming fourth pile loops over the intermediate dial elements and casting off the needle loops formed by the intermediate needles in the second double yarn course. The alternate dial elements are then moved radially outwardly to advance the cutting edges thereof against the first and second pile loops formed thereover and retained thereon, thereby cutting the first and second pile loops to form cut pile ends.In each succeeding cycle, the third and fourth pile loops are retained over the intermediate dial elements until the knitting of the first and second double yarn courses is completed, thereby casting off the needle loops formed in the third and fourth double yarn courses, at which time the intermediate dial elements are moved radially outwardly to advance the cutting edges thereof against the third and fourth pile loops formed thereover and retained thereon.

In accordance with the present invention, a new and novel velour-like cut-pile fabric may be knit by employing the third specific embodiment outlined above. The resulting fabric has the yarn in alternate courses formed in loops which appear in alternate wales and float stitches which float across intermediate wales. The loops of the alternate courses extend walewise beneath the float stitches of an adjacent intermediate course and are knit with the corresponding loops of an adjacent alternate course, and the float stitches of the alternate courses extend coursewise across the walewise loops of an other adjacent intermediate course. Extending coursewise between the courses of each adjacent pair of alternate courses is an intermediate course of yarn in which loops are formed in intermediate wales and float stitches float across alternate wales.The loops of each intermediate course extend walewise beneath the float stitches of an adjacent alternate course and are knit with the corresponding loops of an adjacent intermediate course, and the float stitches of each intermediate course extend coursewise across the walewise loops of an other adjacent alternate course. In this manner, the alternate and intermediate courses, although not actually knit together in the traditional sense, are interlocked into one fabric. A pile loop forming yarn is knit in plating relationship to each coursewise yarn described above and therefore cut pile ends project from the fabric face from each waiewise side of each walewise loop in each alternate and intermediate course.

In accordance with another feature of the invention, a presser bar is provided radially outwardly of the dial at every cutting station on the circular machine to clamp the pile loops formed over and retained on the dial elements against the dial of the knitting machine at a location below the dial elements during the radial cutting movement of the dial elements, thereby preventing fabric distortion which might result from pulling of the pile loops by the dial elements as they move outwardly, and also decreasing the dulling effect on the cutting edges of the dial elements.

According to another feature of the invention, guiding means is provided to engage the pile loops retained on the yarn supporting surfaces of the dial elements at a location beneath the dial elements and radially inwardly of the cylinder needles, and to guide the cut pile ends of the pile loops progressively radially inwardly of the cylinder after the cutting thereof and out of possible entanglement with the loops subsequently being knit.

Embodiments of the invention will now be described by way of example, reference being made to the accompanying drawings, of which.

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a conventional circular knitting machine having a dial and a cylinder; Figs. 2-9 are enlarged perspective views of sequential sections of the cylinder and dial of a circular knitting machine equipped to practice one embodiment of the present invention, the views illustrating the progressive action of the knitting elements in carrying out the first preferred embodiment; Figs. 10-1 9 are enlarged perspective views of sequential sections of the cylinder and dial of a circular knitting machine equipped to practice a seond embodiment of the present invention, the views illustrating the progressive action of the knitting elements in carrying out the second preferred embodiment;; Figs. 20-25 are enlarged perspective view of sequential sections of the cylinder and dial of a circular knitting machine equipped to practice a third embodiment of the present invention, the views illustrating the progressive action of the knitting elements in carrying out the third preferred embodiment; Fig. 26 is a view look upwardly from within the needle cylinder of a circular knitting machine of one full section of the dial cams which control the action of the dial elements in practising the first embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 27 is a view looking outwardly from the axis of the needle cylinder of a circular knitting machine of one full section of the needle cams which control the action of the cylinder needles in practising the first embodiment of the present invention;; Fig. 28 is a view looking upwardly from within the cylinder of a circular knitting machine of one full section of the dial cams which control the action of the dial elements in practising the second embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 29 is a view looking outwardly from the axis of the needle cylinder of a circular knitting machine of one full section of the needle cams which control the action of the cylinder needles in practising the second embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 30 is a view looking upwardly from within the needle cylinder of a circular knitting machine of one full section of the dial cams which control the action of the dial elements in practising the third embodiment of the present invention;; Fig. 31 is a view looking outwardly from the axis of the needle cylinder of a circular knitting machine of one full section of the needle cams which control the action of the cylinder needles in practising the third embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 32 is a detailed plan view of one full section of the dial and cylinder of a knitting machine equipped to carry out the third embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 33 is a detailed elevation view of the apparatus illustrated in Fig. 32; Fig. 34 is an enlarged perspective view of the central portion of the knitting machine illustrated in Fig. 1; Figs. 35 and 36 are perspective views of conventional prior art velour fabric prior to shearing of the pile loops; Fig. 37 is a perspective view of conventional prior art velour fabric;; Fig. 38 is a perspective view of the cut-pile fabric produced by practising the first embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 39 is a perspective view of the fabric produced by employing the third embodiment of the present invention with the pile loops uncut; Fig. 40 is a perspective view of the fabric produced by employing the third embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 41 is a diagrammatic view of the surface pattern of the cut pile ends of conventional prior art velour fabric; Fig. 42 is a diagrammatic view of the surface pattern of the cut pile ends of the fabric produced by employing the third embodiment of the present invention; and Fig. 43 is a diagrammatic view of the surface pattern of the cut pile ends of the fabric produced by employing the first embodiment of the present invention.

The present invention as illustrated in the accompanying drawings provides a new and novel method and apparatus for producing knitted cutpile or velour fabric on a conventional circular knitting machine having a cylinder and a dial, and example of which is illustrated in Fig. 1.

Conventionally, such machines are provided with latch needles in each dial and cylinder slot, the knitting action being performed by rotating the dial and cylinder in synchronism, the dial and cylinder needles being acted upon by stationary needle cams located adjacent said dial and cylinder, the location of these knitting elements being generally indicated at 50.

The present invention, as can be seen in each of Figs. 2-25 also utilizes a rotatable needle cylinder 52 having a plurality of conventional latch needles 54 located in cylinder slots 56 of the cylinder 52 and a rotatable dial 58 which rotates in synchronism with the cylinder 52.

However, in practising the present invention, the latch needles conventionally located in each dial slot 66 have been replaced by a plurality of dial elements 60 having a yarn supporting surface 62 and a sharpened yarn cutting edge 64 adjacent thereto and a hook end 63.

The dial elements 60 are disposed within dial slots 66 for movement by conventional dial needle camming means radially inwardly and outwardly of the dial 58 between the cylinder needles 54, the dial elements 60 being movable radially outwardly to a first position (Figs. 3 and 4) for receiving a pile yarn thereover such that pile loops may be formed thereon and movable radially inwardly to a second position (Figs. 5 and 6) in which the pile loops are drawn away from the needles and movable radially outwardly to a third position (Fig. 9) in which the pile loops may be cut against the sharpened cutting edges 64 to form cut pile or velour ends.Three specific embodiments of this concept are presently contemplated, each being more fully described herein, however it is to be understood that the present invention is applicable as well to other embodiments and is intended to be limited only by the claims appended hereto.

Referring first to Figs. 2-9, a sequence of views is shown progressively illustrating the respective action of the dial elements 60 and the cylinder needles 54 during one complete knitting cycle in carrying out the first embodiment of the present invention. Fig. 27 illustrates a section of the cylinder needle cam which controls the action of the cylinder needles 54 during one complete knitting cycle of the first embodiment, while Fig.

26 illustrates a corresponding section of the dial needle cam which controls the action of the dial elements 60 during one complete knitting cycle.

Initially, it whould be noted that in each of Figs.

26 and 27, the direction of movement of the dial elements 60 and needles 54 along the stationary cam tracks 70 and 68, respectively, is from right to left. As can be seen in each of Figs, 2-9, each cylinder slot 56 contains a latch needle 54 of conventional construction and each dial slot 66 contains one dial element 60, a dial element 60 being radially movable between each pair of adjacent cylinder needles 54.

Fig. 2 represents the beginning of the knitting cycle of the first embodiment, the cylinder needles 54 having been raised within cylinder slots 56 to their yarn receiving position by the portion of the cam track 68 generally indicated by 72, with the needle loops 74 of the previously formed course resting on the upper edge 76 of the cylinder 52 about the stems 78 of the needles 56.Dial elements 60 are being moved radially outwardly to the aforesaid first position by the portion of cam track 70 indicated generally at 80 (Fig. 26). With the needles and dial elements in this disposition, a yarn 82 for forming pile loops is fed by conventional means (not shown) to the cylinder needles 54 at a location above the radially outwardly extending dial elements 60, while a yarn 84 for forming fabric base loops is simultaneously fed to the cylinder needles 54 at a location below the dial elements 60. As the needles 54 travel downwardly within slots 56 under the influence of the portion of cam track 68 indicated generally at 86, the needle loops 74 of the previously formed course bear against the needle latch 88 and close it as yarns 82 and 84 are drawn into the hooks 90 of needles 54 with pile loop forming yarn 82 being drawn over and retained on the yarn supporting surfaces 62 of dial elements 60, as shown in Fig. 3.As the needles 54 complete their downward movement, Fig. 4, needle loops 82A of the pile loop forming yarn and needle loops 84A of the fabric base loop forming yarn are drawn through the needle loops 74 of the previously formed course, the needle loops 74 being cast off the needles 54 as the needle hooks 90 are withdrawn downwardly into the slots 56 below the upper edge 76 of the cylinder 52, and simultaneously pile loops 82B are formed over and retained on the yarn supporting surfaces 62 of the dial elements 60.

It should be noted that in practising each embodiment of the present invention, the pile loop forming yarn is anchored in the base fabric formed by the fabric base loop forming yarn prior to cutting the pile loops against the sharpened yarn cutting edge. This anchoring is obtained by casting the needle loops formed with the pile loop forming yarn off the cylinder needles by drawing needle loops of another subsequently fed yarn therethrough. Casting off of the needle loops 82A and 84A is achieved in the first embodiment by knitting a single jersey course of fabric base loop forming yarn subsequent to the knitting of each course in which pile loops 82B are formed over the dial elements 60.Thus, as shown in Fig. 5 and 6, the dial elements 60 are withdrawn to the aforesaid second position within the dial slots 66 by the portion of cam track 70 generally indicated at 92, with the hooks 63 of the dial elements 60 retaining the pile loops 82B on the dial elements.

The dial elements 60 remain withdrawn under influence of the portion of cam track 70 indicated generally at 94, while the needles 54 are raised to their yarn receiving position by the portion of cam track 68 indicated at 96. As the needles 54 are raised to their yarn receiving position, needle loops 82A and 84A bear against the needle latch 88 and open it, needle loops 82A and 84A thereafter resting upon the edge 76 of the cylinder 52 about the stems 78 of the needles 54 (see Fig. 5). As shown in Fig. 6, a second yarn 98 for forming fabric base loops is then fed to the cylinder needles 54. The needles 54 again travel downwardly under the influence of the portion of cam track 68 generally indicated at 100, the needle loops 82A and 84A of the preceding course bearing against the needle latch 88 and closing it.As the needles 54 complete their downward movement, needle loops 98A of the fabric base loop forming yarn are drawn through the needle loops 82A and 84A of the preceding course, the needle loops 82A and 84A being cast off the needles 54 as the needle hooks 90 are withdrawn into the slots 56 below the upper edge 76 of the cylinder 52, all as shown in Fig. 8. Since the dial elements 60 are withdrawn by the portion of cam track 70 indicated at 94 during the knitting of the second fabric base loop forming yarn 98, no loops are formed over the dial elements 60, and therefore the knitted course formed is single jersey.The cylinder needles 54, having cast-off the needle loops 82A and 84A of the pile loop forming yarn 82 and the fabric base loop forming yarn 84, remain withdrawn below the upper edge 76 of the cylinder 52 under the influence of the portion of cam track 68 indicated generally at 102, while the dial elements 60 are moved radially outwardly to the aforesaid third position under influence of the portion of cam track 70 indicated generally at 104, thereby advancing the yarn cutting edges 64 of the dial elements 60 against the pile loops 82B formed over and retained on the yarn supporting surfaces 62 thereof and cutting the retained pile loops 82B to form cut pile ends 82C.

To aid the dial elements 60 in the cutting of the pile loops 82B retained on the yarn supporting surfaces 62 thereof, means is provided in each of the three embodiments of the present invention for clamping the pile loops 82B against a curved serrated surface 11 6 of the dial during the radially outward cutting movement of the dial elements 60. The clamping means is rigidly affixed to the stationary cylinder cam plate 11 8 radially outwardly of the dial and immediately adjacent the location of cutting of the pile loops 82B, as shown in Figs. 32 and 33 in conjunction with the third embodiment of the present invention. The clamping means 114 includes a presser bar 120 extending therefrom radially inwardly toward the serrated outer surface 116 of the dial 58 and between the withdrawn needles 54 and the dial elements 60.The pressing surface 122 of the presser bar 120 is arcuately concave so as to conform to the arcuately convex outer circumference 11 6 of the dial 58. In this manner, as the dial elements 60, carried in the slots 66 of the rotating dial 58, pass the location of cutting and are moved radially outwardly by the portion of the cam track 70 indicated at 104, the stationary presser bar 120 presses the pile loops 82B carried on the yarn supporting surfaces 62 of the dial elements 60 against the serrated outer surface 116 of the dial 58 at a location below the dial elements 60 and above the upper edge 76 of the needle cylinder 52 and maintains the retained pile loops 82B in effective position for cutting by the dial element cutting edges 64.It should be noted that the serrated nature of dial surface 11 6 is illustrated only in Fig. 9 with respect to the first embodiment of the present invention and not in any other of Fig. 2-25 to preserve the clarity of illustration in Figs. 2-25, it being understood that the entire circumferential dial surface 116 in each of the three embodiments is serrated. Thus, the radially outward cutting movement of the dial elements 60 does not pull on the retained pile loops 82B during the cutting thereof and does not cause stretching of the pile loops 82B and distortion of the needle loops 82A.Since the pile loops 82B are effectively held in position during the cutting thereof, the cutting is quicker and cleaner than without clamping means 114 and therefore the dulling effect on the cutting edges 64 is lessened and the useful life of dial elements 60 is prolonged. An additional result is that the cutting of the retained pile loops 82B may be performed effectively even after the sharpened edges 64 of the dial elements 60 have been dulled somewhat by use.

After cutting the retained pile loops 82B, the dial elements 60 withdraw under the influence of the portion of cam track 70 generally indicated at 108, Fig. 26, and the knitting cycle is continuously repeated to form a cut pile fabric.

The fabric produced in practising the above described first embodiment is illustrated in Fig.

38, and comprises two-yarn courses 1 10, consisting of a pile loop forming yarn 82 and a fabric base loop forming yarn 84 appearing in plating relationship, alternating with single jersey courses 112 of fabric base loop forming yarn 98.

Ths surface effect produced by the cut pile ends 82C of this fabric is illustrated in Fig. 43.

As noted earlier, conventional velour is produced by using a single jersey stitch pattern and by knitting a pile loop forming yarn in plating relationship with each single jersey course. It is therefore apparent that the fabric produced by employing the above-described first embodiment is not conventional velour fabric. Under the second embodiment of the present invention, it is possible to produce a conventional velour fabric.

Referring now to Figs. 10-1 9, a sequence of views is shown, progressively illustrating the action of the cylinder needles and dial elements during one full knitting cycle in practising the second embodiment of the present invention. As can be seen in each of Figs. 10-1 9, in practising the second embodiment, the slots 56 of the needle cylinder 52 are provided with a plurality of conventional latch needles 54.However, each slot 66 of the dial 58 is provided with a pair of dial elements 60A and 60B, dial elements 60A being short (in relation to the distance between the hook and the control butt) dial elements, and therefore traveling in cam track 124, Fig. 28, and dial elements 60B being long (in relation to the distance between the hook and the control butt) dial elements and therefore traveling in cam track 126, Fig. 28. A pair of dial elements 60A and 60B is radially movable by conventional camming means between each pair of adjacent cylinder needles 54. The corresponding section of the cylinder needle cams which control the action of the needles in practising the second embodiment is illustrated in Fig. 29, while a section of the dial cams which control the action of the dial elements during one knitting cycle in practising the second embodiment is shown in Fig. 28.In Fig. 29, cam track 123 controls the action of the cylinder needles 54. In Fig. 28, cam track 124 controls the action of the short dial elements 60A while cam track 126 controls the action of the long dial elements 60B. Again, it should be noted that the direction of movement of the needles and dial elements along the cam tracks of Figs. 29 and 28, respectively, is from right to left.

Fig. 10 illustrates the beginning of the knitting cycle of the second embodiment. Needles 54 have been raised to their yarn receiving position after having knitted the previous course. Needle loops 1 28A and 1 30A of pile loop forming yarn 128 and fabric base loop forming yarn 130, respectively, formed during the knitting of the previous course, have forced open the latch 88 of the needles 54 during the needles' rise and now rest on the upper edge 76 of the cylinder 52 about the stems 78 of the needles 54. Pile loops 1 28B formed over dial elements 60B during the knitting of the preceding course are retained on the yarn supporting surfaces 62B of dial elements 60B which have been retracted within the dial 58 to the second position.Dial elements 60A are being moved radially outwardly to the first position between the cylinder needles 54 by the portion of cam track 124 indicated generally at 132. With the needles 54 and dial elements 60A and 60B in this disposition, a yarn 1 34 for forming pile loops is fed to the needles 54 at a location above the yarn receiving surface 62A of the dial elements 60A while a yarn 136 for forming fabric base loops is fed to the needles at a location below the dial elements 60A.In conventional manner, the cylinder needles 54 are moved downwardly within the cylinder slots 56, Fig. 11, drawing needle loops 1 34A and needle loops 1 36A of pile loop forming yarn 134 and fabric base loop forming yarn 136, respectively, through needle loops 1 28A and 1 30A formed during the knitting of the preceding course, thereby casting off needle loops 1 28A and 130A, while forming pile loops 1 34B of pile loop forming yarns 134 over the dial elements 60A, Fig. 12.

The casting off of the needle loops 1 28A and 1 30A of the preceding course having been completed, the needles 54 remain withdrawn into the cylinder slots 56 while dial elements 60are withdrawn into the dial by that portion of cam track 124 indicated at 138, retaining the pile loops 1 34B on the hooks 63A on the ends of the dial elements 60A. The dial elements 60B are then moved radially outwardly to the third position under the influence of the portion of cam track 126 indicated generally at 140 to advance the cutting edges 64B thereof against the pile loops 1 28B formed over and retained thereon, thereby cutting the pile loops 1 28B to form cut pile ends 1 28C, Fig. 13.As described above with respect to the first embodiment, presser bar 120 clamps the pile loops 1 28B against the serrated dial surface 11 6 during the cutting thereof. While dial elements 60A remain withdrawn within the dial 58 with pile loops i 34B retained thereon under influence of the portion of cam track 124 indicated at 142, dial elements 60B are withdrawn momentarily within the dial 58 by the portion of cam track 126 indicated at 144 and are then moved radially outwardly under the influence of the portion of cam track 126 indicated at 146.

The cylinder needles 54 are again raised to their yarn receiving position, the needle loops 1 34A and 1 36A within the hooks 90 of the needles 54 forcing open the latches 88 thereof, Fig. 14. With dial elements 60B extending radially outwardly between cylinder needles 54, a second yarn 148 for forming pile loops is fed to the needles 54 at a location above the dial elements 60B while a second yarn 1 50 for forming fabric base loops is fed to the needles at a location below the dial elements 60B.In conventional manner, the needles 54 are again moved downwardly within cylinder slots 56 drawing needle loops 1 48A of pile loop forming yarn 148 and needle loops 1 50A of fabric base loop forming yarn 1 50 through needle loops 1 34A and 1 36A of the preceding course, thereby casting off needle loops 1 34A and 1 36A while simultaneously forming second pile loops 1 48B of pile loop forming yarn 148 over dial elements 60B, Figs. 1 6 and 1 7. The casting off of the needle loops 1 34A and 1 36A having been completed, dial elements 60B are withdrawn into the dial 58 by the portion of cam track 126 indicated at 1 52 while retaining the pile loops 1 48B on the hooks 63B of the dial elements 60B.The needles 54 remain withdrawn, and the dial elements 60A are moved radially outwardly under the influence of the portion of cam track 124 indicated generally at 1 54 to advance the cutting edges 64A thereof against the pile loops 1 34B formed over and retained thereon, thereby cutting the pile loops 1 34B to form cut pile ends 134C, Fig. 1 8. A presser bar 120 again clamps the pile loops 1348 against the dial 58 during the cutting thereof to aid in the cutting. As illustrated in Fig.19, dial elements 60A, after performing the cutting operation just described again withdraw into the dial 58 while the needles 54 again rise to their yarn receiving position thereby preparing to repeat the described cycle of the second embodiment.

The conventional velour fabric knitted by employing the above-described second embodiment is illustrated in Fig. 37. This fabric, as does conventionally knitted velour fabric after shearing, comprises a plurality of two yarn courses 1 56 including a pile loop forming yarn 1 58 and a fabric base loop forming yarn 1 60 knit in plating relationship in a single jersey stitch pattern, each course having a plurality of needle loops 158A of pile loop forming yarn 158, a plurality of needle loops 1 60A of fabric base loop forming yarn 160, and a plurality of cut pile ends 1 58C extending from each walewise side of each needle loop 158A. In comparison, Figs. 35 and 36 illustrate conventionally knitted velour fabric prior to shearing.Fig. 35 illustrates the approximate required minimum height of pile loops 1 58B which would be necessary in conventional velour knitting to produce a velour fabric having cut pile ends of a height comparable to that of Fig. 37 after shearing of the pile loops. In contrast Fig. 36 illustrates the approximate height of pile loops 1 58B which would be achieved in employing the present invention without cutting the pile loops 158B. The surface effect produced by the cut pile ends 1 58C of the conventional velour fabric of Fig. 37 is illustrated in Fig. 41.

Referring now to Figs. 20-25, a sequence of views is shown, progressively illustrating the action of the cylinder needles and dial elements during one full knitting cycle in practising the third embodiment of the present invention. As can be seen in each of Figs. 20-25 a single cylinder needle and a single dial element are provided in each cylinder slot 56 and dial slot 66. However, in contrast to the first and second embodiments, cylinder slots 56 are provided with both long (in relation to the distance between the hook and the control butt) cylinder needles 54A and short (in relation to the distance between the hook and the control butt) cylinder needles 54B, each alternate cylinder slot 56A being provided with a long cylinder needle 54A and each intermediate cylinder slot 56B being provided with a short cylinder needle 54B.Thus, the needles are arranged with alternate long needles and intermediate short needles. In similar manner, dial slots 66 are provided with both short dial elements 60A and long dial elements 60B, each alternate dial slot 66A provided with a short dial element 60A and each intermediate dial slot 66B being provided with a long dial element 60B.

Thus, the dial elements are arranged with alternate short dial elements and intermediate long dial elements. As in the first embodiment, a dial element is radially movable between the needles of each pair of adjacent cylinder needles.

A section of the cylinder needle cam which controls the action of the needles 54A and 548 in practising the third embodiment of the present invention is illustrated in Fig. 31, while a corresponding section of the dial cam which controls the action of the dial elements 60A and 60B in the third embodiment is illustrated in Fig.

30. Again it should be noted that the direction of movement of the needles and dial elements along the cam tracks of Figs. 31 and 30, respectively, is from left to right. In Fig. 31, cam track 162 controls the action of the short cylinder needles 54B, with cam track 1 64 controlling the action of the long cylinder needles 54A. In Fig. 30, cam track 1 66 controls the action of the short dial elements 60A, with cam track 1 68 controlling the action of the long dial elements 60B.

Fig. 20 illustrates the beginning of the knitting cycle of the third embodiment. Alternate or long cylinder needles 54A have been raised in alternate cylinder slots 56A to their yarn receiving position, needle loops 1 70A and 1 72A of pile loop forming yarn 170 and fabric base loop forming yarn 172, respectively, resting on the upper edge 76 of the cylinder 52 about the stems 78A of the needles 54A, having forced open the latches 88A of the needles 54A. Pile loops 1 708 of pile loop forming yarn 170, formed over intermediate or long dial elements 60B in the first position, are retained on the hooks 63B of dial elements 60B, which have been withdrawn within dial slots 66B to the second position.

Intermediate or short needles 548 have been moved downwardly within cylinder slots 56B, with needle loops 1 74A and 1 76A of pile loop forming yarn 1 74 and fabric base loop forming yarn 176, respectively, held within the hooks 90B of needles 548, and with pile loops 1748 of pile loop forming yarn 1 74 retained on the yarn supporting surfaces of withdrawn long dial elements 60B.Alternate or short dial elements 60A are being moved radially outwardly between raised long cylinder needles 54A by the portion of cam track 1 66 indicated generally at 1 78. With the needles 54A and 54B and the dial elements 60A and 60B in this disposition, a yarn 180 for forming pile loops is fed to long needles 54A at a location above dial elements 60A while a yarn 1 82 for forming fabric base loops is fed to the needles at a location below the short dial elements 60A.

In conventional manner, long needles 54A are moved downwardly within alternate cylinder slots 56A by the portion of cam track 1 64 indicated at 184 drawing needle loops 1 80A and 1 82A of pile loop forming yarn 180 and fabric base loop forming yarn 182, respectively, through needle loops 1 70A and 172A, thereby casting off needle loops 1 70A and 172A, while forming pile loops 1808 of pile loop forming yarn 180 over short dial elements 60A.Long needles 54A remain withdrawn in cylinder slots 56A under the influence of the portion of cam track 1 64 indicated generally at 186, while short needles 548 are raised to their yarn receiving position by the portion of cam track 1 62 indicated generally at 188, needle loops 1 74A and 1 76A bearing against latches 88B during the rise of needles 54B thereby opening latches 88B and coming to rest on the upper edge 76 of cylinder 52 about stems 78B of needles 548 as needles 54B complete their rise.While retaining the pile loops 180B on the dial element hooks 63A, short dial elements 60A withdraw to the second position within dial slots 66A momentarily during the rise of short needles 54B under the influence of the portion of cam track 1 66 indicated generally at 190 but are immediately moved radially outwardly by the portion of cam track 166 indicated at 1 92. As seen in Fig. 21, a second pile loop forming yarn 194 is fed to short needles 548 at a location above short dial elements 60A while a second fabric base loop forming yarn 1 96 is fed to short needles 548 at a location below short dial elements 60A.Needles 548 are now moved downwardly within intermediate cylinder slots 56B by the portion of cam track 162 indicated at 198, drawing needle loops 1 94A and 1 96A of pile loop forming yarn 1 94 and fabric base loop forming yarn 196, respectively, through needle loops 1 74A and 176A, thereby casting off needle loops 1 74A and 176A, while forming second pile loops 194B of pile loop forming yarn 194 over dial elements 60A.The casting of needle loops 1 70A and 1 72A off needles 54A and the casting of needle loops 1 74A and 1 76A off needles 54B having been completed, needles 54A and 54B remain withdrawn within cylinder slots 56A and 56B while dial elements 60A are withdrawn within dial slots 66A by the portion of cam track 1 66 indicated generally at 200, retaining the pile loops 1 80B and 1 94B on the dial element hooks 63A.Long dial elements 60B, which have pile loops 1 70B and 1 74B retained on yarn supporting surfaces 62B and which have been withdrawn within dial slots 66B during the above described steps, are now moved radially outwardly to the third position under the influence of the portion of cam track 1 68 indicated generally at 202 to advance the cutting edges 64B thereof against the pile loops 170B and 174B, thereby cutting the pile loops 170B and 174B to form cut pile ends 1 70C and 174C, respectively, all as shown in Fig. 22.

Again, as described above with respect to the first and second embodiments of the present invention, a presser bar 120 clamps the pile loops 1708 and 174B against the serrated outer surface 11 6 of the dial 58 during the cutting of loops 170B and 1 748. After cutting of pile loops 1 708 and 174B, dial elements 60B are retracted within dial slots 66B momentarily by the portion of cam track 1 68 indicated generally at 204 but are immediately moved radially outwardly by the portion of cam track 1 68 indicated generally at 206.As the retracting and subsequent outward movement of dial elements 60B occurs, long needles 54A are moved upwardly within cylinder slots 56A to their yarn receiving position by the portion of cam track 1 64 indicated generally at 208, needle loops 1 80A and 1 82A bearing against latches 88A during the rise of needles 54A thereby opening latches 88A and coming to rest on the upper edge 76 of the cylinder'52 about stems 78A of needles 54A as needles 54A complete their rise. Short needles 548 remain retracted within cylinder slots 56B under the influence of the portion of cam track 1 62 indicated generally at 210.As seen in Fig. 23, a third yarn 212 for forming pile loops is fed to long needles 54A at a location above dial elements 60B while a third yarn 214 for forming fabric base loops is fed to needles 54A at a location below dial elements 60B. Needles 54A are moved downwardly within alternate cylinder slots 56A by the portion of cam track 1 64 indicated at 21 6 drawing needle loops 212A and 214A of pile loop forming yarn 212 and fabric base loop forming yarn 214, respectively, through needle loops 1 80A and 182A, thereby casting off needle loops 1 80A 182A, while forming third pile loops 2128 over dial elements 60B.Again, long needles 54A remain withdrawn in alternate cylinder slots 56A while short needles 548 are raised to their yarn receiving position by the portion of cam track 1 62 indicated generally at 218, needle loops 1 94A and 1 96A bearing against latches 888 during the rise of needles 54B thereby opening latches 88B and coming to rest on the upper edge 76 of cylinder 52 about stem 788 of needles 54B.

While retaining the pile loops 2128 on the dial element hooks.63B, long dial elements 60B are withdrawn within dial slots 66B momentarily during the downward movement of needles 54A by the portion of cam track 1 68 indicated generally at 220 but are immediately moved radially outwardly by the portion of cam track 1 68 indicated generally at 222. As seen in Fig. 24, a fourth pile loop forming yarn 224 is fed to short needles 548 at a location above dial elements 60B while a fourth fabric base loop forming yarn 226 is fed to needles 548 at a location below dial elements 60B.Needles 54B are moved downwardly within intermediate cylinder slots 56B by the portion of cam track 162 indicated at 228 drawing needle loops 224A and 226A of pile loop forming yarn 224 and fabric base loop forming yarn 226, respectively, through needle loops 1 94A and 196A, thereby casting off needle loops 1 94A and 196A, while forming fourth pile loops 2248 of pile loop forming yarn 224 over long dial elements 60B.

The casting of needle loops 1 80A and 1 82A off long needles 54A and the casting of needle loops 1 94A and 1 96A off short needles 54B having been completed, needles 54A and 54B remain withdrawn into cylinder slots 56A and 56B, respectively, while long dial elements 60B are withdrawn into dial slots 66B by the portion of cam track 1 68 indicated generally at 230, retaining pile loops 212B and 224B on the yarn supporting surfaces 62B thereof.Short dial elements 60A, which have pile loops 1 80B and 194B retained on the dial element hooks 63A, are now moved radially outwardly under the influence of the portion of cam track 166 indicated at 232 to advance the cutting edges 64A thereof against the pile loops 1 80B and 1 948, thereby cutting the pile loops 1 80B and 1 94B to form cut pile ends 1 80C and 194C, respectively, all as shown in Fig.

24. A presser bar 120 aids in the cutting of pile loops 1 80B and 1 94B by clamping loops 1 80B and 1 94B against the outer surface 11 6 of the dial 58 during the cutting thereof. After the cutting of pile loops 1808 and 1 94B, short dial elements 60A are withdrawn into dial slots 66A momentarily by the portion of cam track 1 66 indicated at 234 but are immediately moved radially outwardly by the portion of cam track 1 66 indicated at 178, while long needles 54A rise within cylinder slots 56A to their yarn receiving position under the influence of the portion of cam track 1 64 indicated at 236, all in preparation for the repetition of the above described cycle.

By employing the above described third embodiment, a new and novel cut-pile velour-like fabric is produced, which fabric is illustrated in Fig. 40. As can be seen in Fig. 40, this plush fabric includes a base fabric which comprises a plurality of courses of fabric base loop forming yarn 238 and needle loops 240 of pile loop forming yarn 242 knit in plating relationship to each loop of the fabric base, the needle loops 240 having cut pile ends 244 projecting from each walewise side of the needle loops 240. The base fabric itself includes alternate courses 246 of yarn forming needle loops 246A which appear in alternate wales (indicated generally at 248) and forming float stitches 246B which float across intermediate wales (indicated generally at 252).

The loops 246A of each alternate course 246 extend walewise beneath the float stitches 250B of an adjacent intermediate course 250 and are knit with the corresponding walewise loops 246A of an adjacent alternate course 246. The float stitches 246B of each alternate course 246 extend coursewise across the walewise loops 250A of another adjacent intermediate course 250. Extending coursewise between each adjacent pair of alternate courses 246 is an intermediate course 250 of yarn, forming needle loops 250A which appear in intermediate wales (indicated generally at 252) and which form float stitches 250B floating across alternate wales 248.The loops 250A of each intermediate course 250 of fabric base extend walewise beneath the float stitches 2468 of an adjacent alternate course 246 and are knit with the corresponding loops 250A of an adjacent intermediate course 250. The float stitches 250B of each intermediate course 250 extend coursewise across the walewise loops 246A of another adjacent alternate course 246. It can thus be seen that the alternate and intermediate courses of fabric base yarn 238, although not actually knit together in the conventional sense, are in fact interlocked together into one fabric. Fig. 39 is an illustration of a variation of the above-described fabric in which the pile loops have not been cut or sheared.

As described more fully above, the loops in any one course of fabric base yarn 238 appear either in alternate or intermediate wales only. This, of course, is due to the fact that only one-half of all available cylinder needles participate in the knitting of any one course of fabric in practising the third embodiment. The surface effect produced by the cut pile ends 244 of this fabric is illustrated in Fig. 42. It is therefore apparent that, in contrast to conventional velour knitting wherein the creation of surface color effects is precluded due to the fact that the cut pile ends produced by conventional methods are always linearly aligned walewise as illustrated in Fig. 41, Surface color effects or tween effects may now be achieved in velour knitting simply by utilizing different solid color yarns for each alternate and intermediate course.

In practising the third embodiment described above, it is preferred that means be employed for guiding the cut pile ends radially inwardly and downwardly within the needle cylinder 52 thereby directing the ends away from the t-ieedles 54 and the cylinder slots 56 and preventing the entanglement or entrapment of the cut ends in subsequently knit loops. For this purpose, a wire 254 is provided, as illustrated in Figs. 32, 33 and 20-25. In the preferred embodiment, wire 254 is affixed to the adjustment controls of the dial cam plate 256 at a location generally adjacent the location of yarn feeding, as shown in Figs. 32 and 33. Wire 254 passes around the outer edge of the dial as shown in Fig. 20 and extends in the direction of dial rotation circumferentially with the outer edge 11 6 of the dial 58 at a location immediately beneath the dial elements 60A and 60B and radially inwardly of the needles 54 but radially outwardly of the pile loops 1708 and 174B formed over and retained on the withdrawn long dial elements 60B.The pile loops 1 808 and 194B formed over short dial elements 60A subsequently to the insertion of wire 254 are formed radially outwardly of the wire 254, as shown in Figs. 20-22. The wire 254 extends in this disposition circumferentially with the dial 58 to a point immediately past the location of cutting of pile loops 1708 and 174B, Fig. 22, and extends therefrom radially inwardly and downwardly within the cylinder 52, wire 254 being affixed within cylinder 52 to ring 258 extending downwardly from hub 260 upon which rests the dial 58, Fig. 34.It can thus be seen that, as the dial rotates past the cutting location, Fig. 22, pile loops 1 708 and 1 74B are cut by the yarn cutting edges 64B and cut pile ends 1 70C and 1 74C are subsequently engaged by wire 254 and guided radially inwardly of the cylinder 52, thereby preventing the entangling of cut pile ends 1 70C and 1 74C in the knitting action taking place in Figs. 23-25. As seen in Figs. 23-25, a second wire 254A affixed to the dial cam controls at 262, is inserted around the outer edge of the dial 58 for radially outward engagement of the pile loops 1 80B and 194B formed over short dial elements 60A. Wire 254A extends circumferentially with the outer surface 11 6 of the dial 58, immediately below the dial elements 60A and 60B and radially inwardly of the needles 54A and 548 but radially outwardly of pile loops 180B and 1948. Wire 254A extends in such disposition to a location immediately past the location at which pile loops 1808 and 194B are cut and extends therefrom radially inwardly and downwardly within the needle cylinder and is also affixed to ring 258.

It can therefore be seen that the basic concept underlying the employment of the wire is to radially outwardly engage the pile loops formed over the dial elements at a point subsequent to the formation of the pile loops and to maintain such engagement during the period of retention of the pile loops over the dial elements and until the pile loops are cut, at which point the cut ends are guided radially inwardly of the cylinder and away from the needles. It is to be understood that the wire is affixed in such a manner that it remains stationary with respect to the rotating dial and cylinder just as do the dial and cylinder cams.It should therefore be noted that since the wire is inserted beneath the dial elements by passing it around the outer edge of the dial and since the dial rotates during operation, the wire must be inserted at a location where all dial elements are withdrawn within the dial.

Additionally it should be noted that the wire can engage and guide only those pile loops which will be cut at the cutting location immediately succeeding the entrance of the wire. It can therefor be seen, with respect to the third embodiment, that the most feasible location for the insertion of the wire 254 is the location shown in Fig. 20. As shown in Fig. 20 and as can be seen from Fig. 30, both dial elements 60A and 60B are withdrawn within the dial 58.

Additionally, at the location of entrance of the wire shown in Fig. 20 only the pile loops 170B and 1 74B are retained over any of the dial elements 60A and 60B and therefore radially outward engagement of loops 170B and 174B is easily accomplished. In contrast, while wire 254 could be inserted radially outwardly of loops 170B and 174B at a location subsequent to Fig.

20 and before Fig. 21 at which point all dial elements 60A and 60B are withdrawn within the dial 58 (see the portion of cam track 1 66 indicated generally at 191) such would not be feasible because of the possibility of also radially outwardly engaging the pile loops 180B formed over dial elements 60A in Fig. 20. It should also be noted that if the wire used for the purpose described above is off a stiff, inflexible character, it is not necessary that wire 254 be extended within cylinder 52 and connected with ring 258; wire 1 62 may instead merely be crimped or bent radially inwardly of the cylinder 52 at a point immediate past the location of cutting (see Fig.

22). Finally, as illustrated in Figs. 10-19, it should be recognized that wires 254 and 254A may be employed in practising the second embodiment of the present invention.

Claims

1. A cut-pile knit fabric comprising: 1) a fabric base having a) alternate courses of yarn forming loops in alternate wales and float stitches across intermediate wales, each said alternate course loop extending walewise beneath an intermediate course and knit with a loop in an adjacent alternate course, b) intermediate courses of yarn forming loops in said intermediate wales and float stitches across said alternate wales, each intermediate course loop extending walewise beneath an alternate course and knit with a loop in an adjacent intermediate course, c) said float stitches being on one side of the fabric and said loops being on the other side to interlock said courses together, and 2) loops of pile yarn knit in said alternate course and intermediate course loops and having cut ends projecting therefrom.

2. A cut-pile knit fabric according to claim 1 and characterized further in that said loops of pile yarn are knit in plating relationship with said alternate course and intermediate course loops.

3. A cut-pile knit fabric according to claim 1 and characterized further in that said cut ends project from said one side of the fabric from each walewise side of each said alternate course and intermediate course loop.

4. A method of knitting a cut-pile fabric on a circular knitting machine using dial elements movable radially between cylinder needles, each said dial element having a yarn cutting edge adjacent a yarn supporting surface, said method comprising: a) feeding a yarn for forming pile loops to said needles above said yarn supporting surfaces of said dial elements while simultaneously feeding a yarn for forming fabric base loops to said needles below said dial elements; b) manipulating said needles to knit needle loops of said pile loop forming yarn and simultaneously knit needle loops of said fabric base loop forming yarn while forming and retaining pile loops of said pile loop forming yarn on said yarn supporting surfaces of said dial elements;; c) manipulating said needles to cast-off said needle loops of pile loop forming yarn and fabric base loop forming yarn while retaining said pile loops on said yarn supporting surfaces of said dial elements; and then d) manipulating said dial elements after said needle loops have been castoff said needles to cut said retained pile loops against said dial element yarn cutting edges to form cut pile ends.

5. A method according to claim 4 and characterized further by clamping said retained pile loops at a location between said needles and dial elements during said cutting thereof to maintain said retained pile loops in effective position for cutting by said dial element cutting edges.

6. A method according to claim 5 and characterized further in that said clamping is accomplished by pressing said retained pile loops against the dial of the knitting machine at a location below the dial elements.

7. A method according to claim 4 and characterized further by guiding said retained pile loops preceding and during said cutting and guiding said cut pile ends away from said needles to prevent entrapment of said ends in subsequent knit loops.

8. A method according to claim 7 and characterized further in that said guiding includes engaging said retained pile loops at a location beneath said dial elements and radially inwardly of said needles and guiding said cut pile ends progressively radially inward.

9. A method of knitting a cut pile fabric according to claim 4 and characterized further in that said cutting edges of said dial elements face outwardly, and said dial elements are manipulating to cut said pile loops with said outwardly facing cutting edges.

10. A method of knitting a cut pile fabric according to claim 4 and characterized further in that each said dial element has a hook outwardly adjacent said yarn supporting surface and said cutting edge is inwardly adjacent said yarn supporting surface, said method further including positioning said dial elements in a first outward position during said yarn feeding for feeding of said pile loop forming yarn onto said yarn receiving surfaces, positioning said dial elements in a second inward position prior to said manipulating of said dial elements to cut in which second position said hooks draw said retained pile loops away from said needles, and, in said manipulating said dial elements to cut pile loops, manipulating said dial elements from said second position to a third outward position.

1 A method of knitting a cut pile fabric according to claim 10 and characterized further by clamping said retained pile loops against outward movement during manipulation of said dial elements from said second position to said third position for effective positioning of said pile loops for cutting by said dial element cutting edges.

12. A method of knitting a cut pile fabric according to claim 11 and characterized further in that said clamping is accomplished by pressing said retained pile loops against the dial of the knitting machine at a location below said dial elements.

13. A method according to claim 4 and characterized further by: e) before said manipulating said needles to cast-off, feeding additional pile loop forming yarn and fabric base forming yarn to said needles and manipulating said needles to form needle loops on said needles and pile loops on said dial elements while said dial elements retain said first formed pile loops thereon; f) retaining the later formed pile loops on said dial elements during said manipulating said dial elements to cut said retained first formed pile loops.

14. A method according to claim 4 and characterized further by: g) guiding said first formed pile loops preceding and during said cutting thereof and guiding said cut pile ends of said first formed pile loops away from said needles and from said later formed pile loops on said dial elements to prevent entrapment of said ends in subsequently knit loops.

1 5. A method according to claim 4 and characterized further by: e) before said manipulating said needles to castoff, feeding an additional fabric base forming yarn to said needles and manipulating said needles to form needle loops on said needles while said dial elements retain said pile loops thereon.

16. A method according to claim 4 and characterized further in that there are a pair of said dial elements radially movable between each pair of adjacent cylinder needles, and by a) said feeding of pile loop forming yarn being to the first dial element of each said pair to form first pile loops; d) said manipulating said dial elements comprises manipulating said first dial elements to cut said retained first pile loops; e) before said manipulating said needles to castoff, retaining the first pile loops on said yarn supporting surfaces of said first dial elements while: : (1) feeding a second pile loop forming yarn to said needles above said yarn supporting surface of the second dial element of each said pair of dial elements and simultaneously feeding a second fabric base loop forming yarn to said needles below said second dial elements, and (2) manipulating said needles to knit needle loops of said second pile loop forming yarn and simultaneously knit needle loops of said second fabric base loop forming yarn while forming second pile loops of said second pile loop forming yarn on said yarn supporting surfaces of said second dial elements after which said first dial elements are manipulated as aforesaid to cut said first pile loops while retaining said second pile loops on said second dial elements; and f) in each succeeding fabric forming cycle of steps, the additional steps of (1) retaining said second pile loops on said yarn supporting surfaces of said second dial elements during said feeding and knitting of said first pile loop forming yarn and said first fabric base loop forming yarn, and (2) thereafter and prior to said feeding of said second pile loop forming yarn and said second fabric base loop forming yarn, manipulating said second dial elements to cut said pile loops retained thereon against said second dial element yarn cutting edges to form cut pile ends.

1 7. A method accqrding to claim 4 and characterized further in that one dial element is movable between each pair of adjacent cylinder needles, and by: a) said feeding being to alternate needles; b) said needle manipulating being manipulating of said alternate needles while forming first pile loops on alternate dial elements; c) said manipulating said needles to cast-off being manipulating said alternate needles; e) before manipulating said dial elements to cut and while retaining said first pile loops on said alternate dial elements:: (1) feeding a second pile loop forming yarn to intermediate needles above said yarn supporting surfaces of said alternate dial elements and simultaneously feeding a second fabric base loop forming yarn to said intermediate needles below said alternate dial elements, (2) manipulating said intermediate needles to knit needle loops of said second pile loop forming yarn and simultaneously knit needle loops of said second fabric base loop forming yarn while forming second pile loops of said second pile loop forming yarn on said yarn supporting surfaces of said alternate dial elements, (3) retaining said first pile loops and second pile loops on said yarn supporting surfaces of said alternate dial elements while:: (i) feeding a third pile loop forming yarn to said alternate needles above said yarn supporting surfaces of said intermediate dial elements and simultaneously feeding a third fabric base loop forming yarn to said alternate needles below said intermediate dial elements, and (ii) manipulating said alternate needles to - knit needle loops of said third pile loop forming yarn and simultaneously knit needle loops of said third fabric base loop forming yarn while forming third pile loops of said third pile loop forming yarn on said yarn supporting surfaces of said intermediate dial elements and while castingoff said first pile loop forming yarn from said alternate needles;; (4) retaining said first pile loops and said second pile loops on said yarn supporting surfaces of said alternate dial elements and retaining said third pile loops on said yarn supporting surfaces of said intermediate dial elements while: (i) feeding a fourth pile loop forming yarn to said intermediate needles above said yarn supporting surfaces of said intermediate dial elements and simultaneously feeding a fourth fabric base loop forming yarn to said intermediate needles below said intermediate dial elements, and (ii) manipulating said intermediate needles to knit needle loops of said fourth pile loop forming yarn and simultaneously knit needle loops of said fourth fabric base loop forming yarn while forming fourth pile loops of said fourth pile loop forming yarn on said yarn supporting surfaces of said intermediate dial elements and while casting-off said second pile loop forming yarn from said intermediate needles; f) Said manipulating said dial elements being manipulating said alternate dial elements to cut said retained first pile loops and said retained second pile loops while retaining said third pile loops and said fourth pile loops on said intermediate dial elements: and g) in each succeeding fabric forming cycle of steps, the additional stepsof (1) retaining said third pile loops and said fourth pile loops on said ya?n n supporting surfaces of said intermediata dial elements during said feeding and knitting of said first pile loop forming yarn and said first fabric base loop forming yarn and during said feeding and knitting of said second pile loop forming yarn and said second fabric base loop forming yarn, while casting-off said third and fourth pile loop forming yarns from said alternate and intermediate needles, and (2) thereafter and prior to repeating said feeding of said third pile loop forming yarn andsaid third fabric base loop forming yarn, manipulating said intermediate dial elements to cut said retained third pile loops and said retained fourth pile loops against said intermediate dial element yarn cutting edges to form cut pile ends.

18. In a circular knitting machine of the type having a needle cylinder and a dial, the improvement comprising: (1) a plurality of needles carried by said needle cylinder; (2) a plurality of dial elements carried by said dial for radial movement between said cylinder needles, each said dial element having a yarn cutting edge adjacent a yarn supporting surface; (3) means for feeding a yarn for forming pile loops to said needles above said yarn supporting surfaces of said dial elements while simultaneously feeding a yarn for forming fabric base loops to said needles below said dial elements; (4) means for manipulating said needles to knit and cast off needle loops of said pile loop forming yarn, knit and cast off needle loops of said fabric base loop forming yarn, and form and retain pile loops of said pile loop forming yarn on said yarn supporting surfaces of said dial elements; and (5) means for manipulating said dial elements to cut said pile loops against said dial element yarn cutting edges to form cut pile ends after said needle loops of said pile loop forming yarn have been cast off said needles.

1 9. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement according to claim 18 and characterized further in that one of said plurality of dial elements is radially movable between the needles of each pair of adjacent cylinder needles.

20. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement defined in claim 1 8 and characterized further in that said plurality of dial elements comprises both long and short dial elements, one of each type of dial element being carried by said dial for radial movement between the needles of each pair of adjacent cylinder needles.

21. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement defined in claim 20 and characterized further in that said means for manipulating said dial elements includes means for selectively manipulating either said long or said short dial elements so that said pile loop forming yarn may be fed above said yarn supporting surfaces of either said long or said short dial elements and means for selectively manipulating either said long or said short dial elements for cutting said pile loops retained on the yarn supporting surfaces thereof.

22. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement defined in claim 1 8 and characterized further in that one of said plurality of dial elements is radially movable between the needles of each pair of adjacent cylinder needles and in that said plurality of dial elements comprises both long and short dial elements carried by said dial in alternating relationship for radial movement between said cylinder needles.

23. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement defined in claim 22 and characterized further in that said means for manipulating said dial elements includes means for selectively radially manipulating either said long or said short dial elements so that said pile loop forming yarn may be fed above said yarn supporting surfaces of either said long or said short dial elements and means for selectively manipulating either said long or said short dial elements for cutting said pile loops retained on the yarn supporting surfaces thereof.

24. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement defined in claim 18 and characterized further in that said plurality of cylinder needles comprises both long and short cylinder needles.

25. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement defined in claim 24 and characterized further in that said means for manipulating said needles selectively manipulates either said long cylinder needles or said short cylinder needles for feeding of yarn thereto, for knitting loops of said yarn, and for casting-off said loops.

26. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement defined in claim 23 and characterized further in that said plurality of cylinder needles comprises both long and short cylinder needles, and characterized further in that said means for manipulating said needles selectively manipulates either said long cylinder needles or said short cylinder needles for feeding a yarn thereto, for knitting loops of said yarn, and for casting off said loops.

27. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement defined in claim 18 and characterized further by means for clamping said retained pile loops at a location between said needles and dial elements during said cutting therof to maintain said retained pile loops in effective position for cutting by said dial element cutting edges.

28. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement defined in claim 27 and characterized further in that said clamping means includes means for pressing said retained pile loops against the dial of the knitting machine at a location below the dial elements.

29. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement defined in claim 28 and characterized further in that said dial has a serrated surface against which said clamping means presses said pile loops.

30. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement defined in claim 28 and characterized further in that said pressing means includes a presser bar disposed radially outwardly of said dial for clamping said retained pile loops between said presser bar and said dial.

31. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement defined in claim 30 and characterized further in that said presser bar has an arcuately concave pressing surface corresponding to the arcuately convex outer circumference of said dial.

32. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement defined in claim 18 and characterized further by means for guiding said pile loops preceding and during cutting by said dial element manipulating means and extending for guiding cut pile ends away from said needles to prevent entrapment of said ends in subsequently knit loops.

33. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement defined in claim 32 and characterized further in that said guiding means includes means for engaging said retained pile loops at a location beneath said dial elements and radially inwardly of said needles and guiding said cut ends progressively radially inwardly of said cylinder.

34. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement defined in claim 33 and characterized further in that said engaging and guiding means includes a wire located immediately beneath said dial elements, radially inwardly of said needles and radially outwardly of said retained pile loops formed over said dial elements, said wire extending in such disposition circumferentially with the outer circumference of the dial from a location immediately past the location of formation of said pile loops to a location immediately past the location of cutting of said pile loops and extending therefrom radially inwardly and downwardly within said cylinder toward the axis thereof.

35. In a circular knitting machine the improvement according to claim 1 8 and characterized further in that said cutting edges of said dial elements face outwardly, and said means for manipulating said dial elements manipulates said dial elements outwardly to cut said pile loops with said outwardly facing cutting edges.

36. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement according to claim 1 8 and characterized further in that each said dial element has a hook outwardly adjacent said yarn supporting surface and said cutting edge is inwardly adjacent said yarn supporting surface, said dial elements being movable from a first outward position for feeding of said pile loop forming yarn onto said yarn receiving surfaces to a second inward position in which said hooks draw said retained pile loops away from said needles, and said means for manipulating said dial elements manipulates said dial elements to a third outward position thereby cutting said retained pile loops with said outwardly facing cutting edges.

37. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement according to claim 36 and characterized further by means for clamping said retained pile loops at a location between said needles and dial elements during movement of said dial elements from said second position to said third position to maintain said retained loops in effective position for cutting by said dial element cutting edges.

38. In a circular knitting machine, the improvement according to claim 37 and characterized further in that said clamping means includes means for pressing said retained pile loops against the dial of the knitting machine at a location below the dial elements.

39. A cut-pile knit fabric substantially as herein described with reference to and as shown in Figures 38 and 43 or with reference to and as shown in Figures 39,40 and 42 of the accompanying drawings.

40. A method of knitting a cutpile fabric sustantially as herein described with reference to Figures 2 to 9, 26 and 27 or with reference to Figures 10 to 19, 28 and 29 or with reference to Figures 20 to 25 and 30 to 33 of the accompanying drawings.

41. A circular knitting machine substantially as herein described with reference to and as shown in Figures 2 to 9, 26 and 27 or with reference to and as shown in Figures 10 to 19, 28 and 29 or with reference to and as shown in Figures 20 to 25 and 30 to 33 of the accompanying drawings.