GB2026303A - Gem stone setting - Google Patents

Abstract

An illusion setting for a gem stone in which a separate claw mount 20, 22 centres the stone in the illusion mount and by a press operation is caused to grip the stone and be secured in the illusion mount. Fig. 4 is a cross-section showing the complete assembly. <IMAGE>

Description

SPECIFICATION Gem stone setting This invention relates to gem stone settings, whether real or imitation stones, in jewellery.

A first known method for setting faceted stones, for example diamonds, is to form the body of the ring or other article with a series of claws formed out of the (usually precious metal) of the body of the ring or like, and the stone is then placed between these claws which are subsequently deformed to clasp the stone.

A second known setting is known as the illusion setting, used for smali.stones, and has facets or the like cut into a disc so as to be visible through or around the stone when placed on the disc, and this gives the appearance of a stone larger or more brilliant than is actually the case. During the formation of the facets or like on the disc, portions of the material cut out of the disc are left attached to the disc, and when the stone is placed in position, these attached portions of the disc material can frictionally engage the periphery of the stone to secure it in place. This method enables stones to be assembled to mounts, and the mounts subsequently assembled to the body of the article of jewellery for example by soldering.

The problem with both methods is due to the variation in sizes of the stones, so that each mount has to be adjusted to fit the stone securely, and this calls for skilled manual work.

The object of the invention is to provide an improved setting and method which reduces the amount of skilled manual work required and hence is useful for the production of cheaper articles in larger quantities.

In accordance with the invention, a setting for a gem stone comprising an illusion mount is characterised by the provision of an aperture in the mount, and a separate claw setting having a portion to be received in the aperture, so that the stone can be placed in the claw setting and itself (that is the stone) be subject to pressure to secure the parts together.

By those means the claw may automatically adjust to the size of the zone, and the assembly of stone, mount and setting can be a press operation. This press operation can secure the claw to the mount by a portion of the claw being a press fit in the aperture, and close the claw to the periphery of the stone.

Preferably a second press operation, although possibly carried out by a second tool in the same press and at the same time, deforms the extremities of the claw inwardly for additional security of the stone to the claw, and preferably also the security of fixing the claw to the mount is increased for example by solder applied in the aperture on the opposite side of the mount to the stone.

One presently preferred embodiment of the invention is now more particularly described with reference to the accompanying drawings wherein: Figure 1 is a plan view of the mount; Figure 2 is a section taken on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1; Figure 3 is a plan view of the claw (showing the same prior to assembly); and Figure 4 is a sectional view corresponding to Fig. 2 showing the complete assembly.

It will be appreciated that the drawings are on an enlarged scale.

The mount as seen in Fig. 1 is generally annular, the internal dimension being slightly smaller than the external diameter of the stone to be set. A series of four (in this example) slots extends radially on the upper face of the mount, see Fig. 2. The areas 1 6 on the upper face of the mount, lying between the radial slots 1 2 are provided with a facetted or otherwise impressed or cut pattern to provide the required illusion effect when assembled.

Instead of using a generally square aperture as shown, a circular aperture would be used.

The claw, Fig. 3, comprises an annular portion 20 having an external diameter D such as to be a press fit in the central aperture in the mount, and itself having a central aperture of diameter S to receive the stone as seen in Fig. 4. The claw comprises a series of radially extending arms 22 which initially, that is in the Fig. 3 position before assembly, are of similar (although not necessarily identical) diameter to the mount.

In assembly, the stone is placed in the claw and the latter is placed on the mount, when the slots 1 2 serve to center the claw on the mount, and the central aperture of the claw centers the stone on the assembly. This assembly is then subject to a press operation by applying pressure to the top T of the stone (Fig. 4) and this pushes the annulus 20 into the aperture in the mount and at the same time deforms the claws so that they extend generally vertically upwards. A second press operation, for example using a press tool having a central plunger and a surrounding collar, with the plunger operated first to press the stone, and the collar operated subsequently, deforms the ends of the claws as at 24 onto the face of the stone.

Substantially the whole of the top face of the mount, representing the area 16, is thus left visible to provide the illusion effect. The bases of the radial slots 1 2 could be similarly patterned if desired, but in small settings their total area is insignificant.

The use of solder over the areas 26 28, that is the base of the mount and the underside of the annular portion 20 of the claw to secure the complete assembly to an article of jewellery will at the same time secure those two parts together.

Claims (5)

1. A setting for a gem stone comprising an illusion mount, characterised by the provision of an aperture in the mount, and a separate claw setting having a portion to be received in the aperture, so that the stone can be placed in the claw setting and itself (that is the stone) be subject to pressure to secure the parts together.

2. A setting for a gem stone as claimed in Claim 1, wherein the claw setting comprises a series of radially extending arms, and the illusion mount has a series of slots or recesses in its upper face, so that when the arms lie in the respective slots the claw setting is centred on the mount.

3. A setting for a gem stone as claimed in Claim 2, wherein the pressure displaces the stone and claw setting together into said aperture and closes the claw to the periphery of the stone.

4. A setting as claimed in Claim 3 wherein the extremities of the claw are deformed radially inwardly.

5. A setting for a gem stone substantially as described and with reference to the accompanying drawings.