GB1571584A - Plush fabrics - Google Patents

Description

(54) PLUSH FABRICS (71) We, I.W.S. NOMINEE COM PANY LIMITED, a British Company of Wool House, Carlton Gardens, London, S.W.1.. do hereby declare the invention, for which we pray that a patent may be granted to us and the method by which it is to be performed, to be particularly described in and by the following statement: This invention relates to a duplex doubleknit fabric, and to a method and apparatus for producing the same.

The present invention enables a duplex fabric to be produced on a double jersey or other double bed machine, which has valuable properties. for example of thermal insulation or can, if desired, be split to produce two cut-pile plush fabrics in one operation. The invention thus extends the versatility of standard double bed knitting machines without requiring extensive modifications thereto.

In accordance with the present invention, a duplex fabric comprises two knitted faces each comprising a binder yarn, and a plush yarn knitted in both faces and extending between the interconnecting faces of the fabric, wherein the loops of the plush yarn in each face are plated with the respective binder yarns and an additional course of ground yarn is knitted in each face between successive courses of the plush yarn.

These fabrics can be produced on any knitting machine possessing two needle beds. On circular machines the needle beds are in dial and cylinder formation but on flat rib machines a "V formation is used with reference to back and front needle beds.

Machine types that can be used in this invention include double jersey, interlock, circular rib and flat "V" bed rib machines.

Preferably the fabric is produced on an interlock machine or an interlock-gated rib machine.

With rib and double jersey fabrics of normal construction. the thickness of the fabrics cannot be controlled, regardless of dial to cylinder and/or needle bed gaps, as the fabric thickness is a constant factor of yarn diameter and number of yarn cross laps. With the use of binder yarns in accordance with this invention, however, the fabric thickness can be and is decided by dial to cylinder height and/or needle bed gap. Therefore, the resultant fabric thickness can now be carried according to the knitters requirements (within knitting limits).

The action of the binder yarns is to limit the movement of yarn between the floats and needle loops. Normally, when double jersey fabrics are produced, the fabrics start relaxing from the moment the loops leave the knitting needles, and consequently the dial needle loop and the cylinder needle loop reach a state of equilibrium whereby some yarn is robbed back from the float (inter connecting) loop. Consequently the fabric thickness cannot be controlled or held and is, therefore, allowed to settle to a nominal thickness.

Since in producing fabrics by this invention the needle loop sizes can be determined during knitting, together with the amount of yarn in the cross loops, and then held in position during and after the loops are released from the knitting needles, a desired thickness can be maintained when fabrics are released. It has been found that the binder yarn as now used can reduce this relaxation process to an insignificant level.

It is preferred to make the plush and binder courses referred to above every second or third course in the fabric. In accordance with the invention, the intervening courses are knitted courses of ground yarn on the dial and on the cylinder. This allow the needles to cast off the rather heavy double loops of pile and binder yarns before the next pile course is knitted, and improves the locking of the plush loops into the fabric. Throughout this specification we refer to "plush" yarns, which are knitted between the two beds of needles at one feeder; "binder" yarns, which are knitted separately on each bed of needles at the same feeder as the plush yarn; and "ground' yarns which are knitted respectively on one bed only or on the other bed only in courses between the plush yarn courses.The plush yarns are so called because, extending between the two faces of the knitted duplex fabric, they can if desired be cut to split the duplex fabric so that the cut loops of the plush yarns form the pile on the two plush fabrics which result. The plush, binder and ground yarns can, of course, all be identical or may differ in any desired way, e.g. as to count. composition or colour.

The invention also provides a method of producing the fabric of the invention on a knitting machine having two needle beds, wherein a plush yarn is fed to needles of both beds and simultaneously a binder yarn to the same needles of one bed only and a second binder yarn to the same needles of the other bed, and a ground yarn is subsequently fed to needles of one bed only and a second ground yarn to needles of the other bed.

The method of the invention may be carried out on any double knit machine by providing the appropriate feeders for the plush, binder and ground yarns, as hereinafter more fully described.

The present invention thus also provides apparatus for producing a duplex fabric comprising a double bed knitting machine and feeders arranged to feed plush yarn to needles of both beds and respective binder yarns to needles of one bed only and of the other bed only, and further feeders arranged to feed respective ground yarns to needles of one bed only and of the other bed only.

Preferablv in a circular machine the plush yarn feeder and the feeder for the cylinder binder yarn are combined in a detachable feeder unit. the cylinder binder feeder being swingably mounted for movement away from the cylinder needles when not in use.

When it is desired to produce two cut pile fabrics instead of a duplex fabric, the apparatus may include a cutter disposed between the cylinder and dial needles between knitting positions to cut the plush yarn stitches and form two cut pile fabrics.

It is preferred to use a circular double jersey machine, when the additional feeder can be added and removed in a very short time leaving the machine free to produce conventional fabrics when it is not required to produce the fabrics of this invention. In order to produce a thick fabric the dial and cylinder needle beds are set as far apart as desired by increasing the dial height.

It is preferred that the dial be adjusted to a height which will give a 3 mm or greater separation between the faces of the duplex fabric. The fabric of the invention so produced is bulky and highly resilient, and is eminently suitable for end-uses where a high level of thermal insulation is required.

If desired, the fabric may be split to produce two cut-pile plush fabrics. The tabric may be spit, for example, by a band-knife after production or, preferably in the case of a circular machine, by a series of circular knives mounted on the machine adjacent the plush yarn feeders so positioned as to cut the plush stitches as they are formed. The plush pile height will of course depend on the setting of the dial height as discussed above. For example, a 3 mm setting would give each of the cut plus fabrics a pile height of 1.5 mm.

In order to modify a double-knit machine to produce the fabric of the invention the feeder position at which the plush yarn is to be fed is equipped with two binder yarn feeders. While it has been found that in a circular double knit machine a standard feeder is adequate to supply the dial needles with binder yarn, we have found that optimum results can only be produced when the cylinder needles are supplied with binder yarn from the specially designed feeder described below.

Tests have been carried out to compare various fabrics and materials designed and used for thermal protection in apparel. It has been found that this duplex uncut "plush" fabric has the following properties: 1. good recovery from crushing; 2. as the fabric thickness increases the thermal insulation properties improve; 3. as the fabric thickness increases the thermal properties per unit weight increase; 4. this method of production provides a cheap and simple method of producing a given fabric thickness according to the type of garment required and the wearers' needs; 5. fabric can be produced from 100% wool and/or feeder blends, using any commercial synthetic yarn as binder and/or ground yarns.

Garments produced from the fabrics according to the invention have wide ranges of uses, more especially as mountaineering and ski-wear; protective clothing for freezer workers, foundry workers, building workers, military personnel including tank crews and air crews, submariners divers and for arctic training; survival suits; hat and scarves, socks, gloves, jackets, overcoats, slacks, underwear tracksuits, overalls, blankets and sleeping bags.

The invention will be described further, by way of example, with reference to the drawings accompanying the provisional spe cification, in which: Figure 1 is a partial diagrammatic view of a circular double-knit machine adapted to produce a fabric in accordance with the invention Figure 2 is a similar view to Figure 1 showing an optional circular knife for pro ducing two cut-pile plush fabrics; Figures 3 to 6 show the knitting sequences of four examples of fabrics embodying the invention; and Figures 7 to 9 are rear and two similar side elevations of the preferred yarn feeder of this invention.

In Figure 1 is shown part of a circular double-jersey machine having dial needles 10 and cylinder needles 12. A conventional yarn feeder 14 supplies plush yarn 16 to both dial and cylinder needles in the normal way.

The dial height is set at greater than 3 mm.

Two auxiliary feeders are provided, namely a dial feeder 18. which supplies binder yarn 20a to the dial needles 10 only, and the cylinder feeder 22, which supplies binder yarn 20b to the cylinder needles 12 only.

The machine illustrated is interlock gated.

i.e. the dial and cylinder needles 10 and 12 are opposite one another.

For simplicity, Figure 1 shows two standard auxiliarv varn feeders 18. 22 but in practice. while the illustrated dial feeder 18 may be employed. the cylinder needle feeder 22 preferably takes the form shown in Figures 7 to 9 and described below.

Figure 2 illustrates a form of driven circular knife 24 which, when mounted on the machine adjacent the plush varn feeder position. revolves and cuts the plush stitches immediately after they are formed. When the knife 24 is employed the machine produces two cut-pile plush fabrics. Both these fabrics are virtually identical and are stable since the binder varn 20 holds the loops of plush yarn 16 firmly in the fabric. A loop guide (not shown) may also be produced to tension the plush loops and produce a clean cut pile.

Typical fabrics are illustrated in Figures 3 to 6. Figure 3 shows the knitting sequence of a preferred fabric of the invention. At feeder 1 plush yarn 16 is fed to alternate dial and cylinder needles gated on the interlock system. Simultaneously, two binder varns 20 are fed separately to the selected cylinder needles 1 and dial needles 10.

At feeders 2 and 3 ground yarn 26 is fed to those needles selected at feeder 1 to knit a plain course in each face of the fabric and clear the needles of the double loops of binder and plush yarns. Feeders 4 to 6 repeat the sequence on the alternate needles to those selected at feeders 1 to 3.

Figure 4 represents a condensed sequence similar to Figure 3 but in which. bv the use of auxiliary ground yard feeds at feeder positions 2 and 4. the whole sequence can be completed in four feeder positions instead of six, enabling the fabric to be produced 50% faster.

The fabric of Figure 5 is knitted on a rib-gated machine and is otherwise the equivalent of the fabric of Figure 3. Similarly the fabric of Figure 6 is the rib equivalent to that of Figure 5, using auxiliary feeds for the ground yarn 26 at feeder 2.

The simple cylinder needle yarn feeder 22 shown in Figure 1 is preferably replaced by that shown in Figures 7 to 9, which also replaces the conventional yarn feeder 14 used for the plush yarn. The modified yarn feeder 30 comprises a main body portion 32 adapted to be mounted in place of a standard yarn feeder and having a camming surface 34 to ensure that the cylinder needle latches remain open as they rise up past the feeder for knitting. The plush yarn feed hole 36 is provided to guide the plush yarn to the machine needles. Adjustably mounted on the body 32 by means of a bolt 33 is a binder yarn feeder having a yarn guide 38 on an arm 40.The arm 40 is pivoted at 42 so that it may be swung from its operative position (shown in Figure 8), for knitting fabric in accordance with this invention, out of the way (to the position of Figure 9) if the machine is required to knit other fabrics.

The feeder assembly 32 is mounted on the machine so that the guide 38 feeds cylinder binder yarn 20b below the level of the dial needles 10 so that it is picked up by the cylinder needles 12 only.

WHAT WE CLAIM IS: 1. A duplex fabric comprising two knitted faces each comprising a binder yarn, and a plush yarn knitted in both faces and extending between and connecting the faces of the fabric, wherein the loops of the plush yarn in each face are plated with the respective binder yarns, and an additional course of ground yarn is knitted in each face between successive course of the plush yarn.

2. A cut pile fabric formed by cutting the plush yarn between the said faces of a duplex fabric according to claim 1.

3. A method of producing a duplex fabric on a knitting machine having two needle beds, wherein a plush yarn is fed to needles of both beds and simultaneously a binder yarn to the same needles of one bed only and a second binder yarn to the same needles of the other bed, and a ground yarn is subsequently fed to needles of one bed only and a second ground yarn to needles of the other bed only.

A method according to claim 3. wherein the plush yarn is fed at the same feeder position to needles of both cylinder and dial in a circular double-knit machine and simultaneously the binder varns are fed respectively to the same cylinder needles only and

**WARNING** end of DESC field may overlap start of CLMS **.

Claims (1)

1. **WARNING** start of CLMS field may overlap end of DESC **.

   cification, in which: Figure 1 is a partial diagrammatic view of a circular double-knit machine adapted to produce a fabric in accordance with the invention Figure 2 is a similar view to Figure 1 showing an optional circular knife for pro ducing two cut-pile plush fabrics; Figures 3 to 6 show the knitting sequences of four examples of fabrics embodying the invention; and Figures 7 to 9 are rear and two similar side elevations of the preferred yarn feeder of this invention.

   In Figure 1 is shown part of a circular double-jersey machine having dial needles 10 and cylinder needles 12. A conventional yarn feeder 14 supplies plush yarn 16 to both dial and cylinder needles in the normal way.

   The dial height is set at greater than 3 mm.

   Two auxiliary feeders are provided, namely a dial feeder 18. which supplies binder yarn 20a to the dial needles 10 only, and the cylinder feeder 22, which supplies binder yarn 20b to the cylinder needles 12 only.

   The machine illustrated is interlock gated.

   i.e. the dial and cylinder needles 10 and 12 are opposite one another.

   For simplicity, Figure 1 shows two standard auxiliarv varn feeders 18. 22 but in practice. while the illustrated dial feeder 18 may be employed. the cylinder needle feeder 22 preferably takes the form shown in Figures 7 to 9 and described below.

   Figure 2 illustrates a form of driven circular knife 24 which, when mounted on the machine adjacent the plush varn feeder position. revolves and cuts the plush stitches immediately after they are formed. When the knife 24 is employed the machine produces two cut-pile plush fabrics. Both these fabrics are virtually identical and are stable since the binder varn 20 holds the loops of plush yarn 16 firmly in the fabric. A loop guide (not shown) may also be produced to tension the plush loops and produce a clean cut pile.

   Typical fabrics are illustrated in Figures 3 to 6. Figure 3 shows the knitting sequence of a preferred fabric of the invention. At feeder 1 plush yarn 16 is fed to alternate dial and cylinder needles gated on the interlock system. Simultaneously, two binder varns 20 are fed separately to the selected cylinder needles 1 and dial needles 10.

   At feeders 2 and 3 ground yarn 26 is fed to those needles selected at feeder 1 to knit a plain course in each face of the fabric and clear the needles of the double loops of binder and plush yarns. Feeders 4 to 6 repeat the sequence on the alternate needles to those selected at feeders 1 to 3.

   Figure 4 represents a condensed sequence similar to Figure 3 but in which. bv the use of auxiliary ground yard feeds at feeder positions 2 and 4. the whole sequence can be completed in four feeder positions instead of six, enabling the fabric to be produced 50% faster.

   The fabric of Figure 5 is knitted on a rib-gated machine and is otherwise the equivalent of the fabric of Figure 3. Similarly the fabric of Figure 6 is the rib equivalent to that of Figure 5, using auxiliary feeds for the ground yarn 26 at feeder 2.

   The simple cylinder needle yarn feeder 22 shown in Figure 1 is preferably replaced by that shown in Figures 7 to 9, which also replaces the conventional yarn feeder 14 used for the plush yarn. The modified yarn feeder 30 comprises a main body portion 32 adapted to be mounted in place of a standard yarn feeder and having a camming surface 34 to ensure that the cylinder needle latches remain open as they rise up past the feeder for knitting. The plush yarn feed hole 36 is provided to guide the plush yarn to the machine needles. Adjustably mounted on the body 32 by means of a bolt 33 is a binder yarn feeder having a yarn guide 38 on an arm 40.The arm 40 is pivoted at 42 so that it may be swung from its operative position (shown in Figure 8), for knitting fabric in accordance with this invention, out of the way (to the position of Figure 9) if the machine is required to knit other fabrics.

   The feeder assembly 32 is mounted on the machine so that the guide 38 feeds cylinder binder yarn 20b below the level of the dial needles 10 so that it is picked up by the cylinder needles 12 only.

   WHAT WE CLAIM IS:

   1. A duplex fabric comprising two knitted faces each comprising a binder yarn, and a plush yarn knitted in both faces and extending between and connecting the faces of the fabric, wherein the loops of the plush yarn in each face are plated with the respective binder yarns, and an additional course of ground yarn is knitted in each face between successive course of the plush yarn.

   2. A cut pile fabric formed by cutting the plush yarn between the said faces of a duplex fabric according to claim 1.

   3. A method of producing a duplex fabric on a knitting machine having two needle beds, wherein a plush yarn is fed to needles of both beds and simultaneously a binder yarn to the same needles of one bed only and a second binder yarn to the same needles of the other bed, and a ground yarn is subsequently fed to needles of one bed only and a second ground yarn to needles of the other bed only.

   A method according to claim 3. wherein the plush yarn is fed at the same feeder position to needles of both cylinder and dial in a circular double-knit machine and simultaneously the binder varns are fed respectively to the same cylinder needles only and

   dial needles only, the ground yarn being fed respectively to the same cylinder needles and the same dial needles at a subsequent feeder position.

   5. Apparatus for producing a duplex fabric according to claim 1 comprising a double bed knitting machine and feeders arranged to feed plush yarn to needles of both beds and respective binder yarns to needles of one bed only and of the other bed only, and further feeders arranged to feed respective ground yarns to needles of one bed only and of the other bed only.

   6. Apparatus according to claim 5, wherein the machine is a circular knitting machine having cylinder and dial needles and including at a single feeder position respective feeders for binder yarns to the cylinder and dial needles, and a feeder for the plush yarn to both needles.

   7. Apparatus according to claim 6, wherein the plush yarn feeder and the feeder for the cylinder binder yarn are combined in a detachable feeder unit, the cylinder binder feeder being swingably mounted for movement away from the cylinder needles when not in use.

   8. Apparatus according to claim 6 or 7, including a cutter disposed between the cylinder and dial needles between knitting positions to cut the plush yarn stitches and form two cut pile fabrics.

   9. A duplex fabric produced by a method substantially as described with reference to any one of Figures 3 to 6 of the accompanying drawings.

   10. Apparatus for knitting a duplex fabric substantially as described with reference to Figure 1 of the accompanying drawings.

   11. Apparatus for knitting a duplex fabric substantially as described with reference to Figure 2 of the accompanying drawings.

   12. Apparatus for knitting a duplex fabric substantially as described with reference to Figures 7 to 9 of the accompanying drawings.