GB1559658A

GB1559658A - Production of tights

Info

Publication number: GB1559658A
Application number: GB4981977A
Authority: GB
Original assignee: Macchine Tessili Circolari MATEC SpA
Current assignee: Macchine Tessili Circolari MATEC SpA
Priority date: 1976-12-01
Filing date: 1977-11-30
Publication date: 1980-01-23
Also published as: IT1067734B; FR2372918A1; DE2752745A1; JPS5377740A; ES464600A1

Description

(54) IMPROVEMENTS IN OR RELATING TO THE PRODUCTION OF TIGHTS (71) We, MACCHINE TESSILI CIRCO- LARI MATEC S.p.A., an Italian Body Corporate, of Via delle Nazioni Unite, Scandicci, Firenze, Italy, do hereby declare the invention, for which we pray that a patent may be granted to us, and the method by which it is to be performed, to be particularly described in and by the following statement: The present invention relates to the production of tights on a circular knitting machine.

There has been proposed in U.S. Patent No. 3,996,748, a process for the manufacture of tights on a circular knitting machine by knitting the legs of the tights using continuous motion of the needle cylinder, and knitting the pants portion of the tights using oscillatory motion of the needle cylinder.

Tights are normally knitted using synthetic yarns; however for reasons of hygiene and personal comfort, it is desirable for the tights to be knitted in the crutch portion from another yarn, for example cotton. A requirement therefore exists for a modified form of the above previously proposed process whereby this process can be adapted to knit the crutch portion from a yarn different from that used to form other portions of the article.

According to the present invention, there is provided a process for knitting tights on a circular knitting machine comprising a needle cylinder having needles, said process comprising knitting a first leg of the tights using continuous motion of the needle cylinder, knitting one half of a pants portion of the tights using oscillatory motion of the needle cylinder and with decreasing numbers of stitches, knitting the other half of the pants portion using oscillatory motion of the needle cylinder and with increasing numbers of stitches so as to connect the two halves of the pants portion, and knitting tlle second leg of the tights using continuous motion of the needle cylinder, the improvement comprising knitting, between the upper end of each of the legs formed by continuous motion of the needle cylinder, and the pants portion, a fabric band composed of two different yarns, a portion of said band lying in the crutch zone of the tights being knitted from one of said yarns along a first arc of needles, and another portion of the band being knitted along a second arc of needles complementary to said first arc using the other of said yarns, and knitting connection bands between the two portions with double the number of courses as those of the said two portions.

Embodiments of the invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying diagrammatic drawings, in which: Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 show subsequent stages in the knitting of a pair of tights, according to a first embodiment of the invention; Figures 5 and 6, and 7 and 8 respectively show two modified arrangements; Figure 9 shows schematically a cam shell of a knitting machine set up to knit a pair of tights in accordance with the invention; Figure 10 is a development of control butts of jacks of the knitting machine; Figure 11 is a schematic axial view showing the arrangement of the cams; and Figures 12 and 13 show in detail two different fabric structures in the completed tights.

With initial reference to Figures 1 to 4, a first leg 1 of the tights is knitted up to a line 3. Up to line 3, the article is knitted with a single type of yarn, for instance a synthetic yarn, at all the feeds of the machine. In a manner to be described hereinafter, two contiguous zones or portions, denoted by 5 and 7, are knitted from the line 3 to form a band, the two portions 5 and 7 being connected by two bands or strips 9 extending from an initial point 9A to a final point 9B. In the portion 5 the fabric is knitted with a cotton yarn or other hygienic yarn which is different from the yarn from which the leg 1 and the portion 7 of the band are knitted.The bands 9 are knitted using both yarns and with double the number of stitches to those of the portions 5 and 7, so that the two portions 5 and 7 are connected along the bands 9, with double the number of courses to those of the portions 5 and 7; this is achieved by using the needles corresponding to bands 9 to knit both the yarn of the portion 5 and the yarn of the portion 7.

After reaching the final points 9B of the band composed of the portions 5 and 7, i.e.

after reaching the line denoted by 10E, 10L, the needles corresponding to the portion 5, that is, those needles along line 10E between the opposed points 9B, are made inoperative, for example, by being lowered.

The needles of the complementary arc, that is those on the working arc corresponding to line 10L remain in operation to knit the first half 12 of the pants portion with progressively decreasing stitches between lateral edges 12A, in the manner described in the aforesaid patents; knitting continues to an end edge 14 corresponding to half the waist line. Then the article is removed from the needles along the edge 14, which extends over an arc less than that of the line 10L between the two opposite points 9B and the article is retained by the needles which have been progressively excluded along the two edges 12A, and by the needles along an arc corresponding to line 10E.

Knitting is resumed to form the second half 16 of the pants portion, this being shown during knitting in Figure 3 and shown when completed in Figure 4. Knitting thus occurs from an initial edge 15 symmetrical to the edge 14 and with pro -gressively increasing stitches, so as to obtain a connection between the two halves 12 and 16 of the pants portion along the edges 12A. When the article is finished, these edges 12A define the connection lines along the crutch between the waist line (edges 14, 15) and the crutch zone. Knitting continues until reaching a line 1 8L which is at the same level as the line 10L and then knitting is resumed with the needles which have been kept inactive along the line 10E, to form a tubular band sinit lar to that formed by portions 5 and 7, and consisting (see Figure 4) of portions 25 and 27.The portions 25 and 27 are respectively made of the cotton yarn and of the yarn from which the remainder of the article is knitted, and extend as far as a line 33 which corresponds to the line 3 of the first leg. Then the second leg 35 is knitted in a similar manner to that of the leg 1 but in opposite direction.

It follows that at the crutch zone, two adjacent portions 5 and 25 are knitted with a cotton yarn, and are connected along the line 10E, using those needles which were excluded from knitting during the forming of the two halves 12 and 16 of the pants portion. This area 5, 25 made of a cotton fabric is defined between the lines 3 and 33, and by the bands 9 and 29 respectively, the latter being formed during knitting of the two portions 25 and 27 and being included between the two portions 25 and 27.

Figures 5 and 6 show a modified arrangement wherein the needle arcs equivalent to the lines 10L and 10E, corresponding to the subdivision between portions 5 and 7, have a different development to those of the needles which are rendered inoperative and which respectively knit the two halves 12 and 16 of the pants portion. More particularly, there are provided for knitting the first half 12 of the pants portion, needles along an arc defined between two points 12X, 12X at the initial working arc of the first pant half 12; the points 12X are spaced, in the zone of the excluded needles, by an arc of needles which is greater than that corresponding to the above defined line 10E.Therefore the zones between the points 9B and 12X form, in the finished article, (see Figure 6), lengths denoted by 13X at the front and back of the article between the ends of the line 10E and the initial points of the edges 12A connecting the two pants halves 12 and 16.

In the modified arrangement shown in Figures 7 and 8, the arrangement of the development of the two pants halves 12 and 16 knitted with oscillatory motion, is the reverse of that of Figures 5 and 6, i.e. the initial working arc of the first pants half 12 is greater than that of the line 10E between the two opposite points 9B of bands 9. In this case a cotton fabric formation 5 and 25 is obtained, which is clearly shown in Figure 8 wherein points 9B are spaced along the line corresponding to the lines 10L and 18L ending the band 5, 7 and beginning the knitting of the band 25, 27, the points 12Y being equidistant from the upper ends of the bands 9 and 29.

A circular knitting machine can be set up to knit each of the above described arrangements, in the manner shown in Figures 9 to 11. The arrangement shown in Figures 1 to 4 permits a somewhat simplified set up by virtue of the coincident selection of the needles for knitting the portions 5, 7 and 25, 27 respectively and for knittings the halves 12 and 16 of the pants portion.

Figure 9 shows an assembly of cams relating to four feeds Al, A2, A3, A4. Cams 51, 53, 55 are lowering cams of the feeds A1, A2 and cams 57 and 59 are lifting cams of the feeds Al, A2; cams 61, 63, 65 are lowering cams of feeds A3, A4 with which also lifting cams 67 and 69 are coordinated. It should be noted that the above described cams act during oscillatory motion of the needle cylinder. A respective jack 71 is associated with each needle 73 and includes guide butts 71G of conventional type and a butt 71A or a butt 71B.

The butts 71A and 71B arearranged at two different levels to cooperate with the cams 57, 59 and 67, 69 respectively. The jacks with the butts 71B are arranged in correspondence of a working arc corresponding to arc 10E, whereas the jacks with the butts 71A are arranged to cooperate with the lifting cams 57 and 59 and correspond to arc 1 OL. The needles associated with the butts 71B form the portions 5 and 25, and the needles associated with the butts 71A form the portions 7 and 27. Between the adjacent ends of the arcs of butts 71B and 71A short zones denoted by 101 in the drawing are provided, in which butts 71A and 71B are present; for instance these zones 101 may each include two jacks and thus two needles. These zones 101 are used to form the bands 9 and 29 as will be described hereinafter.

The leg 1 is knitted by means of synthetic yarn, for example, at the four feeds A1, A2, A3, At as far as the line 3 whereupon the cotton yarn is fed to the feeds A3, A4 and the feed of synthetic yarn is maintained at the feeds Al, A,. In this way there is knitted a fabric from two different types of yarn to form the portions 5 and 7 respectively.

By knitting with an oscillatory motion of the needle cylinder, there is formed a fabric structure illustrated in Figure 12, and which shows the portions 5 and 7 at respective sides of the band 9 which is formed from twice the number of courses as that of the adjacent portions 5 and 7. The portions 5 and 7 are knitted by yarn at the feeds A3, A4 and feeds Al, A2 respectively, whereas in zone 101 the needles are raised to take the yarn at each of the feeds A1, A2, A3, A4 so that double the number of courses are formed and in each row of stitches, stitches knitted with the synthetic yarn of portion 5 alternate with stitches formed with the cotton yarn of portion 7.

It should be noted that this double number of courses in zone 101 is obtained only in correspondence of the beginning of the oscillatory motion, i.e. in correspondence of the line 3, whereas previously- when all the feeds being fed with synthetic yarn-tubular fabric wholly of synthetic yarn is knitted. After the band composed of the portions 5 and 7 has been formed as far as the lines 10L, 10E, knitting con tinues with the two feeds (or alternatively with a higher number of feeds) to form, with the synthetic yarn, the pants half 12 and then 16. Following this, the band com prising the portions 25 and 27 and the band 29 similar to band 9 is knitted.Continuous motion of the needle cylinder is resumed after reaching the line 33, to form the sec ond leg 35, which is composed wholly of synthetic yarn, the cotton yarn being re placed by the synthetic yarn at the feeds A3, Al. It will be clear that during knitting of the legs 1 and 35, the raising of the jacks and needles will be obtained irrespec tive of that obtained by the jacks 71A and 71B.

Figure 13 shows a structure that can be obtained by knitting the portions 5, 7 and 25, 27 (with the bands 9, and 29) with a continuous motion of the needle cylinder in stead of an oscillatory motion, the oscillat ory motion being used only to form the pants halves 12 and 16. In this case provision is made for cutting the yarn in correspon dence of the bands 9 and 29, along which the ends of cut yarn are present, these ends being denoted by KC for the cotton yarn of portions 5 and 25, and by KS for the syn thetic yarns of portions 7 and 27. The yarn may be cut by any suitable cutting device as will be apparent to those skilled in the art.In this case, bands 9 and 29, correspond ing to arcs 101, will be of a sufficient width to ensure anchoring of the cut ends; these bands can be formed by two needles or alternatively by three or more needles.

It should be noted that during the knitting of the two pants halves 12 and 16 (which are made only with the feeds Al, A3 fed with synthetic yarn), it is appropriate to exclude the yarn guides of the cotton yarn, and it is necessary to prevent the lifting of the needles at the feeds wherein the cotton yarn is present.

In the embodiment particularly described the finished article has in selected parts thereof, a fabric structure formed by a yarn different from that of other parts of the article, for the above described pur poses or for any other reason for which different fabric characteristics are required.

WHAT WE CLAIM IS:- 1. A process for knitting tights on a cir cular knitting machine comprising a needle cylinder having needles, said process com prising knitting a first leg of the tights using continuous motion of the needle cylinder, knitting one half of a pants por tion of the tights using oscillatory motion of the needle cylinder and with decreasing numbers of stitches, knitting the other hnlf of the pants portion using oscillatory motion

**WARNING** end of DESC field may overlap start of CLMS **.

Claims

**WARNING** start of CLMS field may overlap end of DESC **.

51, 53, 55 are lowering cams of the feeds A1, A2 and cams 57 and 59 are lifting cams of the feeds Al, A2; cams 61, 63, 65 are lowering cams of feeds A3, A4 with which also lifting cams 67 and 69 are coordinated. It should be noted that the above described cams act during oscillatory motion of the needle cylinder. A respective jack 71 is associated with each needle 73 and includes guide butts 71G of conventional type and a butt 71A or a butt 71B.

The butts 71A and 71B arearranged at two different levels to cooperate with the cams 57, 59 and 67, 69 respectively. The jacks with the butts 71B are arranged in correspondence of a working arc corresponding to arc 10E, whereas the jacks with the butts 71A are arranged to cooperate with the lifting cams 57 and 59 and correspond to arc 1 OL. The needles associated with the butts 71B form the portions 5 and 25, and the needles associated with the butts 71A form the portions 7 and 27. Between the adjacent ends of the arcs of butts 71B and 71A short zones denoted by 101 in the drawing are provided, in which butts 71A and 71B are present; for instance these zones 101 may each include two jacks and thus two needles. These zones 101 are used to form the bands 9 and 29 as will be described hereinafter.

The leg 1 is knitted by means of synthetic yarn, for example, at the four feeds A1, A2, A3, At as far as the line 3 whereupon the cotton yarn is fed to the feeds A3, A4 and the feed of synthetic yarn is maintained at the feeds Al, A,. In this way there is knitted a fabric from two different types of yarn to form the portions 5 and 7 respectively.

By knitting with an oscillatory motion of the needle cylinder, there is formed a fabric structure illustrated in Figure 12, and which shows the portions 5 and 7 at respective sides of the band 9 which is formed from twice the number of courses as that of the adjacent portions 5 and 7. The portions 5 and 7 are knitted by yarn at the feeds A3, A4 and feeds Al, A2 respectively, whereas in zone 101 the needles are raised to take the yarn at each of the feeds A1, A2, A3, A4 so that double the number of courses are formed and in each row of stitches, stitches knitted with the synthetic yarn of portion 5 alternate with stitches formed with the cotton yarn of portion 7.

It should be noted that this double number of courses in zone 101 is obtained only in correspondence of the beginning of the oscillatory motion, i.e. in correspondence of the line 3, whereas previously- when all the feeds being fed with synthetic yarn-tubular fabric wholly of synthetic yarn is knitted. After the band composed of the portions 5 and 7 has been formed as far as the lines 10L, 10E, knitting con tinues with the two feeds (or alternatively with a higher number of feeds) to form, with the synthetic yarn, the pants half 12 and then 16. Following this, the band com prising the portions 25 and 27 and the band

29 similar to band 9 is knitted.Continuous motion of the needle cylinder is resumed after reaching the line 33, to form the sec ond leg 35, which is composed wholly of synthetic yarn, the cotton yarn being re placed by the synthetic yarn at the feeds A3, Al. It will be clear that during knitting of the legs 1 and 35, the raising of the jacks and needles will be obtained irrespec tive of that obtained by the jacks 71A and 71B.

Figure 13 shows a structure that can be obtained by knitting the portions 5, 7 and 25, 27 (with the bands 9, and 29) with a continuous motion of the needle cylinder in stead of an oscillatory motion, the oscillat ory motion being used only to form the pants halves 12 and 16. In this case provision is made for cutting the yarn in correspon dence of the bands 9 and 29, along which the ends of cut yarn are present, these ends being denoted by KC for the cotton yarn of portions 5 and 25, and by KS for the syn thetic yarns of portions 7 and 27. The yarn may be cut by any suitable cutting device as will be apparent to those skilled in the art.In this case, bands 9 and 29, correspond ing to arcs 101, will be of a sufficient width to ensure anchoring of the cut ends; these bands can be formed by two needles or alternatively by three or more needles.

It should be noted that during the knitting of the two pants halves 12 and 16 (which are made only with the feeds Al, A3 fed with synthetic yarn), it is appropriate to exclude the yarn guides of the cotton yarn, and it is necessary to prevent the lifting of the needles at the feeds wherein the cotton yarn is present.

In the embodiment particularly described the finished article has in selected parts thereof, a fabric structure formed by a yarn different from that of other parts of the article, for the above described pur poses or for any other reason for which different fabric characteristics are required.

WHAT WE CLAIM IS:- 1. A process for knitting tights on a cir cular knitting machine comprising a needle cylinder having needles, said process com prising knitting a first leg of the tights using continuous motion of the needle cylinder, knitting one half of a pants por tion of the tights using oscillatory motion of the needle cylinder and with decreasing numbers of stitches, knitting the other hnlf of the pants portion using oscillatory motion

of the needle cylinder and with increasing numbers of stitches so as to connect the two halves of the pants portion, and knitting the second leg of the tights using continuous motion of the needle cylinder, the improvement comprising knitting, between the upper end of each of the legs formed by continuous motion of the needle cylinder, and the pants portion, a fabric band composed of two different yarns, a portion of said band lying in the crutch zone of the tights being knitted from one of said yarns along a first arc of needles, and another portion of the band being knitted along a second arc of needles complementary to said first arc using the other of said yarns, and knitting connection bands between the two portions with double the number of courses as those of the said two portions.
2. A process according to claim 1, wherein the said fabric band is knitted using oscillatory motion of the needle cylinder.
3. A process according to claim 1, wherein the said fabric band is knitted using continuous motion of the needle cylinder, the yarn being cut at the ends of the two portions outside of the connection bands.
4. A process according to claim 1, wherein the two halves of the pants portion are knitted along a needle arc complementary to the said first needle arc, the needles in the said first needle arc arc being excluded from operation during knitting of the pants oprtion.
5. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the one of said yarns is a cotton yarn, and the said other of said yarns is a synthetic yarn.
6. A circular knitting machine when used to knit tights in accordance with the process as claimed in claim 1.
7. A process substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the accompanying drawings.
8. Tights knitted by a process according to any one of claims 1 to 5 or claim 7.