GB1559062A - Presser foot for a concealed sliding clasp fastener - Google Patents

Description

(54) PRESSER FOOT FOR A CONCEALED SLIDING CLASP FASTENER (71) We, YOSHIDA KOGYO K. K., a corporation duly organized under the laws of Japan and existing at No. 1, Kanda Izumi-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, Japan, do hereby declare the invention, for which we pray that a patent may be granted to us, and the method by which it is to be performed, to be particularly described in and by the following statement : The present invention relates to a presser foot for sewing a concealed sliding clasp fastener to a garment.

One known type of sewing machines for concealed sliding clasp fasteners includes a pressor foot that can be used for sewing the fastener to the main fabric of a garment and also for sewing the backing to the fastener or sewing seams. The pressor foot includes a sole plate having a central needle hole located between a pair of guide grooves provided in its sole and a pair of side needle holes located at the sides of the sole plate.

When sewing the fastener to the main fabric, the sewing needle is aligned with and moves up and down through the central needle hole with one of the rows of the fastener elements being received in one of the guide grooves. For sewing the backing to the fastener or sewing seams with the pressor foot, the sole plate is displaced sideways to bring one of the side needle holes into alignment with the sewing needle.

With this displacement, however, one of the feed dogs of the sewing machine gets just below one of the guide grooves and, while being operated, is unable to press the fabric pieces positively against the sole of the sole plate. Accordingly, with the prior pressor foot the fabric pieces cannot be fed smoothly under the pressor foot so that the fabric pieces are sewn by stitches at irregular intervals and the stitched fabric pieces are liable to get puckered or wavy.

According to the invention, there is provided a presser foot for a concealed sliding clasp fastener having a pair of rows of fastener elements, comprising: a stem; a first sole plate having in its first sole a pair of spaced grooves each for receiving one of the rows of fastener elements, said first sole having therein a first needle hole located between said grooves; a second sole plate having a second needle hole located at one of the sides thereof, said second sole plate having a second sole which is at an angle to said first sole; means connecting said first sole plate to said second sole plate, said means being pivotally supported on said stem; and said means being pivotable between a first position in which said first sole is substantially at a right angle to said stem and a second position in which said second sole is substantially at a right angle to said stem.

The invention will now be described by way of example with reference to the ac companying drawings in which: Figure 1 is a perspective view of a pressor foot provided in accordance with the pre sent invention; Figure 2 is a side elevational view with parts cut away of the pressor foot; Figure 3 is an enlarged front elevational view of the pressor foot with one of its sole plates put to use for sewing the backing fabric of a garment to a sliding clasp fastener stringer tape; Figure 4 is an enlarged front elevational view of the pressor foot with the other sole plate used for sewing the stringer tape to the main fabric of the garment; Figure 5 is a plan view of the back of a one-piece dress to which a concealed sliding clasp fastener is attached; Figure 6 is an enlarged cross-sectional view taken along line VI-VI of Figure 5; and Figure 7 is an enlarged cross-sectional view taken along the line VII-VII of Figure 5.

As shown in Figures 1 and 2, a presser foot 10 comprises a stem 11 fixed at its upper end to a presser bar (not shown) extending downwardly from a sewing machine head, a bell crank 12 pivotally supported on the lower end of the stem 11, and first and second sole plates 13, 14 supported respectively on the free ends of a pair of arms 15, 16 of the bell crank 12.

The first sole plate 13 has in its first sole 17 a pair of spaced guide grooves 18, 19 extending all the way along the length of the sole plate 13. Between the guide grooves 18, 19, there is a partition 20 projecting downwardly and having its distal edge terminating just short of the sole 17.

The guide grooves 18, 19 diverge away from each other from the sole 17 toward the top surface of the sole plate 13. The first sole plate 13 has therein a first needle hole 21 for the passage therethrough of a sewing needle 22 (Figure 3). The first needle hole 21 is located forwardly of the arm 15 of the bell crank 12 and extends through the partition 20 and centrally between the guide grooves 18, 19.

The second needle plate 14 has therein a second needle hole 23 located at one of the sides thereof. The second needle hole 23 is substantially semicircular in cross section throughout its entire length so that it opens at the side of the sole plate 14. The second sole plate 14 has a second sole 24 which is substantially at a right angle to the first sole 17 of the first sole plate 13. The second needle hole 23 is located forwardly of the arm 16 of the bell crank 12 and is held in alignment with the first needle hole 21 in the first sole plate 13 in a direction perpendicular to the length of the first and second sole plates 13, 14.

The bell crank 12 is mounted on the stem 11 by means of a pin 25 extending therethrough at a point where the arms 15, 16 join together. The bell crank 12 is pivotable about the pin 25 between a first position (Figure 4) in which the first sole 13 is substantially at a right angle to the stem 11, or is parallel to a throat plate 26 of the sewing machine with the sewing needle 22 aligned with the first needle hole 21 and a second position (Figure 3) in which the second sole 23 is substantially at a right angle to the stem 11, or is parallel to the throat plate 26 with the sewing needle 22 aligned with the second needle hole 23.

The throat plate 26 has therein a third needle hole 27 which is held in vertical alignment with the sewing needle 22, and which becomes registered with the first needle hole 21 when the first sole plate 13 is in the position of Figure 4 and with the second needle hole 23 when the second sole plate 14 is in the position of Figure 3. Although not shown, a pair of feed dogs are provided in the throat plate 26 one on each side of the third needle hole 27, the feed dogs facing the sole 17 at positions just outside the guide grooves 18, 19 when the sole plate 13 is held in the position of Figure 4. When the second sole plate 14 is in the position of Figure 3, one of the feed dogs faces the sole 24.

A distance between the first sole 17 and the pin 25 is substantially the same as a distance between the second sole 24 and the pin 25.

The stem 11 has a spring-loaded ball 28 (Figure 2) biased toward the bell crank 12, and the bell crank 12 has a pair of semisphrical recesses 29, 30 (Figures 3 and 4) each receptive of the ball 28. The recesses 29, 30 are angularly spaced 90 degrees apart fronz each other and are disposed in the arms 15, 16 respectively. Thus the bell crank 12 is lockable in the first position when the ball 28 is received in the recess 29 and in the second position when the ball 28 is received in the recess 30.

When making the back 31 of a one-piece dress 32 with a concealed sliding clasp fastener 33 as shown in Figure 5, it is customary to sew a seam 34 between the two main fabric pieces 35, 35 of the back 31 leaving a fastener opening to sew backing fabric pieces 36, 36 (Figure 6) to the stringer tapes 37, 37 of the sliding clasp fatener 33, and then to sew the stringer tapes 37, 37 to the fabric pieces 35, 35 of the back 31.

To sew the backing fabric piece 36 to the stringer tape 37, the bell crank 12 is pivoted to lower the second sole plate 14 down to the position of Figure 3, and the backing piece 36 and the stringer tape 37 are placed, one on the other, between the sole plate 14 and the throat plate 26 for stitching by the sewing needle 22. At this time, one of the feed dogs in the throat plate 26 presses the fabric pieces positively against the sole 24 cf the sole plate 14.

Then, the bellcrank 12 is pivoted back to bring the first sole plate 13 to its lowered position as illustrated in Figure 4. The main fabric piece 35 of the back 31 is put on the throat plate 26 and the stringer tape 37 is placed on the fabric piece 35 with its row of elements 38 received in the guide groove 19.

As the fabric piece 35 and the stringer tape 37 are moved forward by the feed dog, they are sewn together by the sewing needle 22.

WHAT WE CLAIM IS:- 1. A presser foot for a concealed sliding clasp fatener having a pair of rows of fastener elements, comprising: a stem; a first sole plate having in its first sole a pair of spaced grooves each for receiving one of the rows of fastener elements, said first sole having therein a first needle hole

**WARNING** end of DESC field may overlap start of CLMS **.

Claims (4)

**WARNING** start of CLMS field may overlap end of DESC **. 5. As shown in Figures 1 and 2, a presser foot 10 comprises a stem 11 fixed at its upper end to a presser bar (not shown) extending downwardly from a sewing machine head, a bell crank 12 pivotally supported on the lower end of the stem 11, and first and second sole plates 13, 14 supported respectively on the free ends of a pair of arms 15, 16 of the bell crank 12. The first sole plate 13 has in its first sole 17 a pair of spaced guide grooves 18, 19 extending all the way along the length of the sole plate 13. Between the guide grooves 18, 19, there is a partition 20 projecting downwardly and having its distal edge terminating just short of the sole 17. The guide grooves 18, 19 diverge away from each other from the sole 17 toward the top surface of the sole plate 13. The first sole plate 13 has therein a first needle hole 21 for the passage therethrough of a sewing needle 22 (Figure 3). The first needle hole 21 is located forwardly of the arm 15 of the bell crank 12 and extends through the partition 20 and centrally between the guide grooves 18, 19. The second needle plate 14 has therein a second needle hole 23 located at one of the sides thereof. The second needle hole 23 is substantially semicircular in cross section throughout its entire length so that it opens at the side of the sole plate 14. The second sole plate 14 has a second sole 24 which is substantially at a right angle to the first sole 17 of the first sole plate 13. The second needle hole 23 is located forwardly of the arm 16 of the bell crank 12 and is held in alignment with the first needle hole 21 in the first sole plate 13 in a direction perpendicular to the length of the first and second sole plates 13, 14. The bell crank 12 is mounted on the stem 11 by means of a pin 25 extending therethrough at a point where the arms 15, 16 join together. The bell crank 12 is pivotable about the pin 25 between a first position (Figure 4) in which the first sole 13 is substantially at a right angle to the stem 11, or is parallel to a throat plate 26 of the sewing machine with the sewing needle 22 aligned with the first needle hole 21 and a second position (Figure 3) in which the second sole 23 is substantially at a right angle to the stem 11, or is parallel to the throat plate 26 with the sewing needle 22 aligned with the second needle hole 23. The throat plate 26 has therein a third needle hole 27 which is held in vertical alignment with the sewing needle 22, and which becomes registered with the first needle hole 21 when the first sole plate 13 is in the position of Figure 4 and with the second needle hole 23 when the second sole plate 14 is in the position of Figure 3. Although not shown, a pair of feed dogs are provided in the throat plate 26 one on each side of the third needle hole 27, the feed dogs facing the sole 17 at positions just outside the guide grooves 18, 19 when the sole plate 13 is held in the position of Figure 4. When the second sole plate 14 is in the position of Figure 3, one of the feed dogs faces the sole 24. A distance between the first sole 17 and the pin 25 is substantially the same as a distance between the second sole 24 and the pin 25. The stem 11 has a spring-loaded ball 28 (Figure 2) biased toward the bell crank 12, and the bell crank 12 has a pair of semisphrical recesses 29, 30 (Figures 3 and 4) each receptive of the ball 28. The recesses 29, 30 are angularly spaced 90 degrees apart fronz each other and are disposed in the arms 15, 16 respectively. Thus the bell crank 12 is lockable in the first position when the ball 28 is received in the recess 29 and in the second position when the ball 28 is received in the recess 30. When making the back 31 of a one-piece dress 32 with a concealed sliding clasp fastener 33 as shown in Figure 5, it is customary to sew a seam 34 between the two main fabric pieces 35, 35 of the back 31 leaving a fastener opening to sew backing fabric pieces 36, 36 (Figure 6) to the stringer tapes 37, 37 of the sliding clasp fatener 33, and then to sew the stringer tapes 37, 37 to the fabric pieces 35, 35 of the back 31. To sew the backing fabric piece 36 to the stringer tape 37, the bell crank 12 is pivoted to lower the second sole plate 14 down to the position of Figure 3, and the backing piece 36 and the stringer tape 37 are placed, one on the other, between the sole plate 14 and the throat plate 26 for stitching by the sewing needle 22. At this time, one of the feed dogs in the throat plate 26 presses the fabric pieces positively against the sole 24 cf the sole plate 14. Then, the bellcrank 12 is pivoted back to bring the first sole plate 13 to its lowered position as illustrated in Figure 4. The main fabric piece 35 of the back 31 is put on the throat plate 26 and the stringer tape 37 is placed on the fabric piece 35 with its row of elements 38 received in the guide groove 19. As the fabric piece 35 and the stringer tape 37 are moved forward by the feed dog, they are sewn together by the sewing needle 22. WHAT WE CLAIM IS:-

1. A presser foot for a concealed sliding clasp fatener having a pair of rows of fastener elements, comprising: a stem; a first sole plate having in its first sole a pair of spaced grooves each for receiving one of the rows of fastener elements, said first sole having therein a first needle hole

located between said grooves; a second sole plate having a second needle hole located at one of the sides thereof, said second sole plate having a second sole which is at an angle to said first sole; means connecting said first sole plate to said second sole plate, said means being pivotally supported on said stem; and said means being pivotable between a first position in which said first sole is substantially at a right angle to said stem and a second position in which said second sole is substantially at a right angle to said stem.

2. A presser foot according to claim 1, said means comprising a bell crank having a pair of arms one of which supports said first sole plate on its free end, and the other of which supports said second sole plate on its free end, and said bell crank being pivoted at a point where said arms join together.

3. A presser foot according to claim 2, said stem having a spring-loaded ball, said arms having a pair of recesses, respectively, each receptive of said spring-loaded ball, and said means being lockable in said first position when said ball is received in one of said recesses and in said second position when said ball is received in the other of said recesses.

4. A presser foot substantially as herein described with reference to and as illustrated in Figures 1 to 4 inclusive of the accompanying drawings.