FR3144756A1 - SCALP CARE COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LIPOPHILIC SOLID ACTIVE AGENT, A MONOALCOHOL AND A HYDROPHILIC THICKENER - Google Patents

Abstract

SCALP CARE COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LIPOPHILIC SOLID ACTIVE AGENT, A MONOALCOHOL AND A HYDROPHILIC THICKENER The present invention relates to a stable scalp care composition, comprising (a) at least one lipophilic solid active agent, (b) at least one monoalcohol containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

SCALP CARE COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LIPOPHILIC SOLID ACTIVE AGENT, A MONOALCOHOL AND A HYDROPHILIC THICKENER

The present invention relates to a cosmetic scalp care composition, comprising at least one lipophilic solid active agent, at least one monoalcohol and at least one hydrophilic thickener.

CONTEXT OF ART

In the field of hair/scalp cosmetics, in order to obtain care effects, active agents are generally included in the compositions. In order to obtain better care effects, solid type active agents can be used. Generally, solid-type active agents are formulated into emulsion cosmetics, such as a cream, to obtain stable formulations. However, for hair/scalp cosmetics, consumers generally prefer less oily formulations.

Therefore, there is a demand for stable and less oily formulations comprising cosmetic solid ingredients for hair/scalp care products.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable and less oily composition for the care of a scalp, comprising solid ingredients.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a scalp care composition, comprising:

(a) at least one lipophilic solid active agent,

(b) at least one monoalcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and

(c) at least one hydrophilic thickener.

The (a) lipophilic solid active agent may be an organic compound.

The (a) lipophilic solid active agent may be an active agent for the skin and/or scalp.

The (a) lipophilic solid active agent can be chosen from anti-aging active agents and active agents with anti-free radical properties or free radical scavengers for the skin and/or scalp.

The (a) lipophilic solid active agent can be chosen from retinols (vitamin A) and derivatives such as retinol esters, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, carotenes including beta-carotene, tocopherol (vitamin E) and derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, vitamins D, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F glycerides, coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone, ceramides, esters organic acid and unsaponifiable materials having a cosmetic and/or dermatological property including tocotrienol, sesamin, phytosterols, squalenes, waxes and terpenes, preferably a) powdery active agent is chosen from esters of organic acid chosen from ethyl ferulate, or oryzanol and in particular Gamma-oryzanol.

The (c) hydrophilic thickener can be chosen from gums.

The (c) hydrophilic thickener may comprise at least two types of hydrophilic thickeners in combination.

The lipophilic solid active agent(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) monoalcohol(s) may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, and more preferably 5%. at 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The thickener(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0 .15% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may be in a non-emulsion form, such as a solution, particularly an aqueous solution, and a serum.

The composition may be a leave-in type cosmetic composition.

The composition may comprise oil(s) in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for or revitalizing a scalp, comprising the step of applying to the hair and/or the scalp the composition according to the present invention.

After careful research, the inventors surprisingly discovered that a combination of (a) lipophilic solid active agent, (b) monoalcohol and (c) hydrophilic thickener can provide stability to compositions even if it does not include a substantial quantity of oils, and therefore finalized the invention.

Thus, the scalp care composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a) at least one lipophilic solid active agent,

(b) at least one monoalcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and

(c) at least one hydrophilic thickener.

The composition according to the present invention will be described in detail in the following.

[Composition]

The scalp care composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one lipophilic solid active agent, (b) at least one monoalcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener.

The compositions according to the present invention can be used as compositions for revitalizing and/or caring for a scalp.

The composition according to the present invention may take various forms, such as a solution, gel, lotion, serum, suspension, dispersion, fluid, milk, paste, cream, foam and the like. In certain preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is in a non-emulsion form, such as a solution, in particular an aqueous solution, and a serum.

The composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended to be used as a leave-on (or leave-in) cosmetic composition. The term “leave-in” refers to a composition that is not intended to be washed/rinsed or removed immediately after application. A leave-in composition is different from a rinse-off type composition, which is intended to be rinsed after being used on keratinous materials.

The ingredients included in the composition according to the present invention will be described in detail below.

(Solid lipophilic active agent)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one lipophilic solid active agent. Two (a) or more lipophilic solid active agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of solid lipophilic active agent or a combination of different types of solid lipophilic active agents can be used.

The term "lipophilic" herein indicates materials which are soluble in oils at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oils at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa).

The term “solid” means that a substance is solid at 25°C under 1 atm.

The (a) lipophilic solid active agent may be in powder form.

The term "powder" used here means particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, in particular water.

The (a) lipophilic solid active agent can be of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic shape (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).

The average particle size of the lipophilic solid active agent is not limited, but generally is 50 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, and more preferably 10 μm or less. The average particle size of the lipophilic solid active agent may be 0.01 μm or more, and preferably 0.1 μm or more. The term "primary average particle size" used here represents a number average size average diameter that is given by the statistical particle size distribution at half the population, denoted by D50. For example, the number average size diameter can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern Corp.

The (a) lipophilic solid active agent may be a water-insoluble active agent.

The expression "insoluble in water" here designates materials which are soluble in water at a concentration less than 0.1% by weight, in particular less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa).

The (a) lipophilic solid active agent may be chosen from cosmetic and/or dermatological active agents, in particular active agents for the skin and/or scalp.

The (a) lipophilic solid active agent may be chosen from active agents for skin care and/or scalp care, such as anti-aging active agents and active agents with anti-free radical properties or radical scavengers. free for the skin and/or scalp.

In particular, the (a) lipophilic solid active agent of the present invention may be lipophilic and/or water-insoluble cosmetic and/or dermatological active agents, in particular lipophilic and water-insoluble active agents chosen from anti-aging active agents and active agents with anti-free radical properties or free radical scavengers.

In a preferred embodiment, the (a) lipophilic solid active agent of the present invention comprises an organic compound. The (a) lipophilic solid active agent of the present invention may be an organic compound.

It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the organic compound forming the (a) lipophilic solid active agent is 150 or more, preferably 300 or more, more preferably 450 or more; and/or is 3,000 or less, preferably 2,000 or less, and more preferably 1,000 or less.

It may be preferable for the molecular weight of the organic compound forming the (a) lipophilic solid active agent to be between 150 and 3,000, preferably between 300 and 2,000 and, more preferably, between 450 and 1,000.

Unless otherwise indicated in the descriptions, “molecular weight” means a number average molecular mass.

With regard to (a) lipophilic solid active agent, retinols (vitamin A) and derivatives such as retinol esters, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, carotenes including beta-carotene, can be used. tocopherol (vitamin E) and derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, vitamins D, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F glycerides, coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone, ceramides, organic acid esters and unsaponifiable materials with cosmetic and/or dermatological properties such as tocotrienol, sesamin, phytosterols, squalenes, waxes and terpenes.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) lipophilic solid active agent is an organic acid ester, particularly those represented by formula (I), or a geometric isomer thereof, an acidic salt or basic organic or mineral thereof, or a solvate thereof, in particular hydrates:

formula (I) in which:

R ¹ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom;

R ² represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkoxy group, preferably a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkoxy group, in particular methoxy;

R ³ represents a hydroxyl group or a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkoxy group, preferably a hydroxyl group; And

R ⁶ represents a group chosen from:

i) (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl, preferably (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl, in particular methyl or ethyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and/or amido, preferably hydroxyl and/or carboxyl,

ii) cycloalkyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from (C ₁ -C ₁₀ )alkyl, (C ₂ -C ₁₀ )alkenyl, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and/or amido, preferably hydroxyl and/or carboxyl, and

iii) glycosyl.

An alkyl group (C _x -C _z ) represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising from x to z carbon atoms. For example, an alkyl group (C ₁ -C ₆ ) represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

A (C _x -C _z ) alkenyl group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising from x to z carbon atoms, and comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated unsaturations, preferably a single unsaturation. For example, an alkenyl group (C ₂ -C ₁₀ ) represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms and comprising one or more unsaturations.

A (C _x -C _z )alkoxy group represents an -O-(C _x -C _z )alkyl radical in which the (C _x -C _z )alkyl group is as defined above.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (I), R6 represents a (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl group i), as defined above.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (I), R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated non-aromatic monocyclic cycloalkyl group, preferably saturated ii), comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms and optionally substituted by a or several alkyl groups (C ₁ -C ₄ ) and/or by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and/or amido, preferably hydroxyl and/or carboxyl.

In particular, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl, optionally substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl and/or carboxyl groups. In particular, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl and is optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and/or amido, preferably hydroxyl and/or carboxyl. More particularly, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl, optionally substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl and/or carboxyl groups.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (I), R ⁶ represents a polycyclic cycloalkyl group ii), preferably comprising between 2 and 5 fused rings, comprising from 12 to 32 carbon atoms and optionally being substituted; in particular, the cycloalkyl is a polycyclic group comprising between 4 and 5 fused rings, said rings being 3, 5 or 6 membered and containing 16 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 17 or 18 carbon atoms, said cycloalkyl being optionally substituted by one or more linear or branched (C ₁ -C ₁₀ ) or linear or branched (C ₂ -C ₁₀ ) alkyl or alkenyl groups.

Preferably, the organic acid ester is of formula (I) in which:

R ¹ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ represent hydrogen atoms;

R ² represents a hydroxyl group or a (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkoxy group, preferably a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkoxy group, in particular methoxy;

R ³ represents a hydroxyl group or an alkoxy group (C ₁ -C ₆ ); And

R ⁶ represents a group chosen from i) alkyl (C ₁ -C ₆ ), preferably alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ),

as well as their geometric isomers, their organic or mineral acid or basic salts, and their solvates such as hydrates.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the ester of formula (I) has formula (I') below:

formula (I') in which:

R ⁶ is as defined above; And

- R ⁷ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group.

According to one embodiment, the organic acid ester may more particularly be of formula (I') in which R ⁶ represents an alkyl group (C ₁ -C ₆ ) and preferably alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ), preferably an ethyl group; and R ⁷ is a (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl group and preferably a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl group, preferably a methyl group.

According to this embodiment, ethyl ferulate is preferred.

According to one embodiment, the organic acid ester may more particularly be of formula (I') in which R ⁶ represents a saturated monocyclic cycloalkyl group comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups, preferably between 1 and 4 groups, chosen from hydroxyl and/or carboxyl; and R ⁷ is a hydrogen atom.

According to this embodiment, chlorogenic acid is preferred.

According to one embodiment, the organic acid ester may more particularly be of formula (I') in which R ⁶ represents a polycyclic group comprising between 3 and 5 saturated fused rings, comprising between 16 and 20 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one, preferably at least two, alkyl groups (C ₁ -C ₄ ), preferably ethyl, and by at least one, preferably one, branched alkyl group (C ₈ -C ₁₀ ) or alkyl (C ₈ -C ₁₀ ), and R ⁷ is an alkyl group (CC ₆ ) and preferably alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ), preferably a methyl group.

The compounds of formulas (I) and (I') according to the invention are preferably chosen from natural compounds or compounds of natural origin. These are preferably “green” compounds.

As particular examples of esters of formula (I) or (I'), mention may be made of methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate, chlorogenic acid, isopropyl ferulate or ferulic acid esters of sterols. , such as oryzanol, in particular gamma-oryzanol. According to another embodiment, oryzanol, and in particular Gamma-oryzanol, is particularly preferred.

The compounds of formulas (I) and (I') can be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art.

For example, ferulic acid esters can be obtained by esterification of ferulic acid, which is itself obtained, for example, by biosynthesis via methoxylation of caffeic acid using the enzyme caffeic acid. -O-methyltransferase , or by extraction from a plant extract, in particular wheat bran, for example using concentrated bases such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.

Gamma-Oryzanol can be obtained by extraction using an organic solvent, in particular from rice bran.

A certain number of compounds of formula (I) or (I') are also commercially available, for example Gamma-oryzanol available under the trade name Oryzanol ^® from the company Tsuno Rice Fine Chemicals, Gamma Oryzanol ^® from the company Ikeda or Oryzanolgamma V ^® from the company Ichimaru Pharcos, ethyl ferulate under the reference Ethyl Ferulate, Natural or COS by the company Gfn Selco, also available from Sigma-Aldrich, and chlorogenic acid under the reference Eucommia Leaves Extract Chlorogenic Acid 98% by Guilin LaYN Natural Ingredients.

Preferably, the (a) lipophilic solid active agent is chosen from organic acid esters chosen from ethyl ferulate, oryzanol and in particular Gamma-oryzanol.

The (a) solid lipophilic active agent may be present in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.2% by weight or more , relative to the total weight of the composition.

The lipophilic solid active agent(s) may be present in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The lipophilic solid active agent(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(monoalcohol)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms. Two or more types of monoalcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of monoalcohol or a combination of different types of monoalcohols can be used.

The (b) monoalcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms can be soluble in water. The term "water soluble" herein means an alcohol that can dissolve in an amount of 0.1 g or more, 0.5 g or more, or 1 g or more in 100 mL of water at room temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa).

The monoalcohol may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, comprising only one hydroxyl function (OH).

The monoalcohol may be an aliphatic monoalcohol containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

The term “aliphatic monoalcohol” here designates any saturated alkane compound, linear or branched, comprising only one hydroxyl function (OH).

The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and their mixtures.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol can be chosen from a linear aliphatic monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol and their mixtures.

The quantity of the (b) monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 3% by weight, and, more preferably, greater than or equal to at 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of (b) monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 40% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 30% by weight and more preferably less than or equal to 25%. in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of (b) monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight and more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight. 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Hydrophilic thickener)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener. Two or more types of hydrophilic thickeners can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hydrophilic thickener or a combination of different types of hydrophilic thickeners can be used.

The term "hydrophilic" here refers to materials soluble in water at a concentration of 1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa ).

The hydrophilic thickener(s) are preferably chosen from thickening polymers bearing sugar units, such as non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, associative thickening polymers, and mixtures of these compounds.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" means a hydrocarbon compound carrying oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.

The sugar units can optionally be modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.

The sugar units which may be included in the hydrophilic thickening polymers of the present invention are preferably derived from one or more of the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid , mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

It is best to choose the thickener from polysaccharides.

The thickening polymers containing sugar units which may in particular be mentioned include native gums such as:

a) tree or shrub exudates, including:

- gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

- ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);

- karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

- tragacanth gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);

b) gums resulting from algae, including:

- agar-agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);

- alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid);

- carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);

(c) gums resulting from seeds or tubers, including:

- guar gum (mannose and galactose polymer);

- locust bean gum (mannose and galactose polymer);

- fenugreek gum (mannose and galactose polymer);

- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);

- konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);

d) microbial gums, including:

- xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);

- gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

- scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);

e) plant extracts, including:

- cellulose (glucose polymer);

- starch (glucose polymer) and

- inulin.

These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, temperature can be particularly mentioned.

Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers which may in particular be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.

Preferably, the thickening polymers bearing sugar units are not chemically or physically treated.

The nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention can be modified with C ₁ -C ₆ (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

Among the C ₁ -C ₆ (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for example propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum. guar modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.

Among the starches which can be used, mention may be made, for example, of macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising basic units which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these motifs and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) from amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches.

The botanical origin of the starch molecules that can be used in the present invention can be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

Starches can be modified chemically or physically, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferably be used, for example the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate hydroxypropyl), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

According to the invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. Anionic and cationic groups can be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups can be of the carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups can be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

Starch molecules can come from any plant source of starch, especially corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The starch preferably comes from potatoes.

Starches may optionally be C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkylated or C ₁ -C ₆ alkylated (such as acetylated). Starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

The non-associative thickening polymers of the invention may be cellulose-based polymers not comprising a C ₁₀ - C ₃₀ fatty chain in their structure.

According to the invention, the term " cellulose-based polymer" designates any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via β-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, derivatives of Cellulose can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

Thus, the cellulose polymers which can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

Among these cellulose-based polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers.

Cellulose esters include inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and cellulose acetatetrimellitates, etc.) and cellulose esters. mixed organic/mineral cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers without a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty chain, i.e. which are non-associative, we can cite (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses, for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical; (poly)hydroxy(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, for example Natrosol 250 HHR marketed by Aqualon and hydroxypropylcelluloses, for example Klucel EF marketed by Aqualon; mixed (poly)hydroxy(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl-(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical; hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly) carboxy(C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.

Among the cationic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in the patent US 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on guar gum, can, for example, vary from 0.4 to 1.2.

Among the non-associative thickening polymers not bearing sugar units which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of 2-acrylamido-acid. Crosslinked 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers, or ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers, alone or in mixtures.

A first family of non-associative thickening polymers which can be used is represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.

The non-associative thickening polymers can also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as the polymer sold under the name Aqua SF1 by the company Noveon.

The non-associative thickening polymers can be chosen from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers.

Among the partially or completely neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide, mention may be made in particular of the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853, and reference may be made to said document concerning these polymers.

The composition may also comprise, as non-associative thickening polymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers.

It is also possible to use cationic thickening polymers of the acrylic type.

Among the hydrophilic thickening polymers, we can also cite associative polymers which are well known to those skilled in the art and in particular of a nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.

It is recalled that associative polymers are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.

The term “hydrophobic group” designates a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. As an example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It can also designate a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for example polybutadiene.

Among the associative polymers of the anionic type which may be mentioned are:

- (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit is constituted by an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly a vinylcarboxylic acid and more particularly an acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.

Among the anionic assiciative polymers those particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylates lower alkyl, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether of formula (I), and from 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for example, diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.

Among these latter polymers, those which are particularly preferred are the crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and polyethylene glycol stearyl alcohol ether (10 EO) (Steareth-10), in particular those sold by the company CIBA under the names Salcare SC80® and Salcare SC90®, which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10 allyl ether (40/50 /10).

- (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ester of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type.

(C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids which are useful in the invention include lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to US patents 3,915,921 and US 4,509,949.

The ethylenically unsaturated monomers bearing a sulfonic group are in particular chosen from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(C _- C ₂₂ )alkylsulfonic acids, N-(C ₁ -C ₂₂ )alkyl(meth )acrylamido(C ₁ -C ₂₂ )alkylsulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized thereof, and mixtures thereof.

(meth)acrylamido(C ₁ -C ₂₂ )alkylsulfonic acids, for example acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2- acid methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3- acid heptanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized thereof, will be more preferentially used.

2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), as well as its partially or completely neutralized forms, will be used more particularly.

The polymers of this family can be chosen in particular from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C ₆ -C ₂₂ n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00/31154 . These polymers may also contain other hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomers chosen, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer.

These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/dodecyldimethylmethacryl-amidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/di methylaminopropylmethacrylamide/tosylate or chloride lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium are used in particular.

The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. More particularly, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mole%, preferably 1.5 to 15 mole% and even more particularly 1.5 to 6 mole% of fatty chain monomer relative to the total number of moles of monomers are preferred.

The amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98/44012.

Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, those which are preferred are the acrylic acid/(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.

Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two types of lipophilic chains based on hydrocarbons containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the chains based on hydrocarbons being able to be side chains or chains with the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible to consider one or more side chains. Additionally, the polymer may include a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or both ends of a hydrophilic block.

Polyurethane polyethers can be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer carrying a central hydrophilic block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These same polymers can also be graft polymers or star polymers.

Polyurethane polyethers with a nonionic fatty chain can be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers include a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.

By extension, non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers are also included in those in which the hydrophilic blocks are connected to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

It is even more particularly preferred to use a polyether polyurethane which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Preferably, the hydrophilic thickener(s) is/are chosen from polymers containing sugar units. Preferably, the hydrophilic thickener(s) are chosen from native gums. Even more preferably, the hydrophilic thickener(s) is/are chosen from microbial gums, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum and scleroglucan gum.

In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophilic thickener comprises at least two types of hydrophilic thickeners in combination. In a more preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic thickener comprises at least two types of hydrophilic thickeners chosen from polymers bearing sugar units, preferably native gums, and more preferably microbial gums, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum and scleroglucan gum.

The quantity of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

The amount of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.15% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less and, more preferably, 1 % by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and , more preferably, from 0.15% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Other ingredients)

- Sugar alcohol

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one sugar alcohol. Two or more types of sugar alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of sugar alcohol or a combination of different types of sugar alcohols can be used.

Sugar alcohol is a compound obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide.

In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be selected from a sugar alcohol and a mixture thereof, reduced by a saccharide, a derivative thereof and a mixture thereof . The saccharide, its derivative or its mixture may be unsubstituted or substituted by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from monosaccharides and/or disaccharides, trisaccharides, and a mixture thereof.

In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from a monosaccharide selected from, for example, a pentose such as ribulose, xylose, ribose, arabinose, lyxose and deoxyribose, a hexose such as allulose, fructose, sorbose, tagatose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, fucose, fuculose and rhamnose as well as a heptose, such as sedoheptulose. In this context, sugar alcohol derived from a monosaccharide is also called monosaccharide sugar alcohol.

In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from disaccharides such as sucrose, lactose, maltose and trehalose. In this context, sugar alcohol derived from a disaccharide is also called disaccharide sugar alcohol.

In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from trisaccharides such as maltotriose, cellotriose, 2'-fucosyllactose, gentianose, raffinose and melicitose.

In some preferred embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be selected from a group including erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, arabitol, xylitol, sorbitol, and a mixture thereof.

In other preferred embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be selected from a group including erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, arabitol, sorbitol and a mixture thereof.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the sugar alcohol comprises at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the sugar alcohol comprises at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the sugar alcohol comprises at least two types of sugar alcohols.

In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the sugar alcohol (b) comprises at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol, such as erythritol, mannitol and sorbitol, and at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol such than maltitol and lactitol in combination.

The amount of sugar alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.05% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.2%. at 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Polyol

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one polyol. Two or more polyols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of polyol or a combination of different types of polyols can be used.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” must be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

The polyol which is suitable for use in the invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl type compound, saturated or unsaturated, comprising at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

Preferably, a polyol which can be used in the composition according to the invention is a compound of linear or branched alkyl type, preferably linear bearing at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functions, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functions, and even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

The polyols which are advantageously suitable for the formulation of the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are those comprising in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms or for example from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

The polyols which can be used according to the present invention are chosen from linear or branched polyols, preferably linear comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; we can cite in particular:

- diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol; And

- triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),

and mixtures thereof.

The quantity of the polyol in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

-Nonionic surfactant

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. If two or more nonionic surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.

The nonionic surfactant may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 3.5 to 6.0, and more preferably 4.0 to 5.0. Alternatively, the nonionic surfactant may have an HLB value of 11 to 17, preferably 12 to 16, and more preferably 13 to 15. If two or more nonionic surfactants are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average HLB values of all nonionic surfactants.

The nonionic surfactant can be chosen from:

(1) surfactants chosen from polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl glycerides and polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers;

(2) mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol;

(3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars;

(4) surfactants chosen from sorbitan fatty esters and oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty esters, and oxyalkylenated fatty esters;

(5) block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B),

(6) alkyl (C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ ) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ethers,

(7) silicone surfactants, and

(8) mixtures thereof.

The surfactant (1) may be a fluid at a temperature less than or equal to 45°C.

The surfactant (1) may in particular be:

- polyglyceryl fatty acid esters of at least one, preferably one, fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon group, such as a C alkyl or alkenyl group ₈ -C ₂₂ , preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl group, and more preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, and 2-12 glycerols, preferably 2-10 glycerols and more preferably 2-8 glycerols;

- polyoxyethylenated (PEGylated) alkyl glycerides such as polyethylene glycol derivatives of a mixture of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of caprylic and capric acids (preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and even more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units), for example, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate;

- polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers of at least one fatty alcohol, preferably one, comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, such as a C ₈ -C alkyl or alkenyl group ₂₂ , preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl group, and more preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, and from 2 to 60 ethylene oxides, preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxides. ethylene, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxides; And

- their mixtures.

It is preferable that the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably 2 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably 4 to 6 glycerols.

The polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid can be chosen from mono, di and triesters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably saturated acid, including 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and myristic acid.

The polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers, preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers, may comprise from 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the ethers can be chosen in particular from lauryl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and their mixtures, such as cetearyl. As examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol ethers comprising 2, 3, 4 and 5 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-4 and Laureth -5), such as the products sold under the names Nikkol BL-2 by the company Nikko Chemicals, Emalex 703 by the company Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd, Nikkol BL-4 by the company Nikko Chemicals and EMALEX 705 by the company Nihon Emulsion Co.,Ltd. We can also cite, for example, stearyl alcohol ethers comprising 2, 3, 4, 5 and 20 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: Steareth-2, Steareth-3, Steareth-4, Steareth-5 and Steareth -20), such as the products sold under the names Emalex 602 by the company Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd, Emalex 603 by the company Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd, Nikkol BS-4 by the company Nikko Chemicals, and Emalex 605 by the company Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd.

It is also preferable that the polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers are polyethylene glycol ethers of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols or alcohols and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives and polypropylene glycol ethers of C ₄ alcohols or fatty alcohols. -C ₂₄ such as butyl ether PPG-14 and stearyl ether PPG-15.

The (2) mixed esters of fatty acids, or of fatty alcohol, of carboxylic acid and of glycerol, usable as nonionic surfactant above, can be chosen in particular from the group comprising mixed fatty acid esters or fatty alcohol with an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, and α-hydroxyacid and/or d succinic acid, with glycerol. The α-hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The alkyl chain of the fatty acids or alcohols from which the mixed esters which can be used in the nanoemulsion of the present invention are derived can be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. These may include stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonate, palmitate, myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyl, lauryl or capryl chains, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of mixed esters which can be used in the nanoemulsion of the present invention, mention may be made of the mixed ester of glycerol and the mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid ( CTFA name: Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate) sold by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 375; the mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFA name: Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) sold by the Hüls company under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate citrate) sold by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate lactate) sold by the company Danisco under the name Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30.

The (3) fatty acid esters of sugars, usable as nonionic surfactant above, can be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acid and sucrose. , maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of esters of C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acid and methylglucose.

The C ₈ -C ₂₂ or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids forming the fatty unit of the esters which can be used in the present invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl or alkenyl chain containing respectively from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms . The fatty unit of the esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and their mixtures. Stearates are preferably used.

The (3) sugar fatty alcohol ethers, usable as nonionic surfactant above, can be solid at a temperature less than or equal to 45°C and can be chosen in particular from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers of C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, and ethers or mixtures of ethers of a C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol and methylglucose. This concerns in particular alkylpolyglucosides.

The C ₈ -C ₂₂ or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the ethers which can be used in the nanoemulsion of the present invention comprise a linear, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl chain, containing respectively from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the ethers can be chosen in particular from the decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl, hexadecanoyl units, and their mixtures, such as cetearyl.

The (4) sorbitan fatty esters and oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty esters which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant can be selected from the group comprising C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ sorbitan fatty acid esters and esters of oxyethylenated C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ sorbitan fatty acids. They can be formed from at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters can generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.

These esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.

The (4) oxyalkylenated fatty esters, preferably ethoxylated fatty esters, usable as nonionic surfactant above, can be esters formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units , and more preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and at least one fatty acid chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 12 carbon atoms. The fatty chain in the esters can be chosen in particular from the stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units, and their mixtures. As examples of ethoxylated fatty esters, we can cite the stearic acid ester comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product marketed under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) by the company ICI, as well as the behenic acid ester comprising 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product marketed under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse.

The (5) block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B), usable as nonionic surfactant above, can be chosen in particular from the block copolymers of formula (I):

HO(C ₂ H ₄ O) _x (C ₃ H ₆ O) _y (C ₂ H ₄ O) _z H (I)

in which x, y and z are integers such that x+z ranges from 2 to 100 and y ranges from 14 to 60, and their mixtures, and more particularly among the block copolymers of formula (I) having an HLB value ranging from 8.0 to 14.0.

The (6) alkyl (C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ ) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ethers, which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, can be chosen from the group consisting of :

PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30; Polyoxyethylene (30) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4630 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-12; Polyoxyethylene (12) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4612 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24; Polyoxyethylene (24) Polyoxypropylene (13) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those sold as UNILUBE 50MT-2200B from NOF Corporation,

PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (6) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4620 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

PPG-4 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold by Nikkol PBC-31 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

PPG-8 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-41 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

PPG-4 Ceteth-10; Polyoxyethylene (10) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-33 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

PPG-4 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-34 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

PPG-5 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (5) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Procetyl AWS from Croda Inc,

PPG-8 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-44 by Nikko Chemicals Co. and

PPG-23 Steareth-34; Polyoxyethylene Polyoxypropylene Stearyl Ether (34 EO) (23 PO) such as those sold under the name Unisafe 34S-23 from Pola Chemical Industries. They can provide a composition with stability over a long period of time, even if the temperature of the composition is increased and decreased in a relatively short period of time.

As (7) silicone surfactants, which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, those disclosed in US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744 can be mentioned.

The (7) silicone surfactant as nonionic surfactant above may preferably be a compound of formula (I):

in which :

R ¹ , R ² and R ³ , independently of each other, represent a 1-C ₆ alkyl radical or a radical -(CH ₂ )x-(OCH ₂ CH ₂ )y-(OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ )z-OR ⁴ , at least one radical R ¹ , R ² or R ³ not being an alkyl radical; R ⁴ being hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical;

A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;

x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;

y is an integer between 1 and 30;

z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), we can cite the compounds of formula (II):

in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.

As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), we can also cite the compounds of formula (III):

H-(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -[(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _A' -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -OH (III)

in which A’ and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.

The nonionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 7% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 7% by weight. 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

-Amino acid

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one amino acid. Two or more types of amino acids can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of sugar alcohol or a combination of different types of amino acids can be used. The amino acid may include an analogue, a solvate, a hydrate, a stereoisomer and a salt thereof.

The amino acid has at least one amino group and at least one carboxyl group. The amino group may be a primary amino group, a secondary amino group or a tertiary amino group.

The amino acid can be of D or L form.

The amino acid can be chosen from acidic amino acids, basic amino acids, neutral amino acids and mixtures thereof. Acidic amino acids generally have one amino group and two carboxyl groups. Acidic amino acids can include glutamic acid and aspartic acid. Basic amino acids generally have two amino groups and one carboxyl group. Basic amino acids can include arginine, lysine, histidine and ornithine. The number of amino group(s) and the number of carboxyl group(s) in neutral amino acids are the same. Neutral amino acids may include glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, asparagine, glutamine, proline, phenylalanine, tyrosine and tryptophan. In certain preferred embodiments, the amino acid may be chosen from basic amino acids and mixtures thereof. In particular, preferred embodiments, the amino acid may be arginine.

The amino acid can be chosen from α-amino acids, β-amino acids, γ-amino acids and δ-amino acids. The α-amino acid can be chosen from non-cyclic α-amino acids and cyclic α-amino acids. The non-cyclic α-amino acid may be selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine. The cyclic α-amino acid can be chosen from non-aromatic cyclic α-amino acids such as pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (pyrroglutamic acid or pidolic acid). Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid can be formed by intramolecular condensation with the amino group and the carboxyl group of glutamic acid.

In certain embodiments, the amino acid may be chosen from amino acid derivatives. Amino acid derivatives (amino acid derivatives) can be selected from amino acids in which the hydrogen atom on the nitrogen atom of the amino group in the amino acids is substituted by at least one substituent.

As a substituent, there may be mentioned, for example, an alkyl group, an acyl group, an alkenyl group, an alkoxyl group, an amino group and an alkoxycarbonyl group.

The alkyl group may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group. The alkyl group may be a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, preferably a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an i-propyl group and a butyl group. On the other hand, the alkyl group may be a cyclic C ₃ -C ₆ alkyl group, such as a cyclopentyl group and a cyclohexyl group.

The acetyl group may be a C ₁ - C ₆ acetyl group such as a formyl group and an acetyl group.

The alkenyl group may be a C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl group such as a vinyl group, an allyl group, a butylene group, a pentenyl group and a hexenyl group.

The alkoxy group may be a C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy group such as a methoxy group, an ethoxy group and a propoxy group.

The alkoxycarbonyl group may be a C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxycarbonyl group such as a methoxycarbonyl group, an ethoxycarbonyl group and a propoxycarbonyl group.

The above substituent may be further substituted by at least one group such as a halogen atom, an amino group, a nitro group, a cyano group, a hydroxyl group and an aromatic group such as a phenyl group.

In one embodiment, the amino acid can be chosen from amino acid salts or salts of amino acid derivatives.

The type of amino acid salts or salts of amino acid derivatives is not limited. The salts can be acidic salts or basic salts. As acid salts, mention may be made, for example, of inorganic acid salts such as hydrochloride, sulfates, nitrates and phosphates, and organic acid salts such as citrates, oxalates, acetates. , formates, maleates and tartrates. As basic salts, mention may be made, for example, of inorganic base salts such as sodium salt, potassium salt, calcium salt, magnesium salt, copper salt, zinc salt, aluminum salt and ammonium salts, and organic base salts such as triethylammonium salts, triethanolammonium salts, pyridinium salts and diisopropyl ammonium salts.

The amino acid(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.03% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Water

The composition according to the present invention preferably includes water.

The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, more preferably 60% by weight or more, even more preferably 95% by weight. or less, and preferably 85% by weight or less; and more preferably 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 85% by weight and, more preferably, from 60% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

-Additives

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more of the adjuvants which are common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, chosen from cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants; cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; gelling agents; penetrating agents; pH correctors such as sodium hydroxide; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; moisturizers such as sodium hyaluronate; emollients; hydrophilic active agents; free radical scavengers; sequestering agents such as gluconolactone; suspension agents; tampons; the perfumes ; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and/or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; conservatives ; the co-conservators; opacifying agents; agents that can cause a cooling sensation, such as menthol; and their mixtures.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise plant extracts, such as extracts of Nymphaeaceae plants, for example, Nymphaea alba root extract or ginger root extract.

The quantity of Nymphaeaceae plant extracts can range from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.001% to 0.05% by weight, or in particular from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As a hydrophilic active ingredient, mention may be made of vitamin B3 and its derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, resorcinol derivatives, C-glycoside derivatives, salicylic acid and its derivatives, α-hydroxy acids. , niacinamide and their mixtures.

The quantity of additives included in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, but can be from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

In certain preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is free of oils or includes a trace amount of oils. In certain embodiments, the oils may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably 0%. at 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In certain preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is oil-free (i.e. 0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition).

Here, “oil” means a compound or fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

Oils may include volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or mixtures thereof. The oil can be chosen from ester oils, fatty alcohols and combinations thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is intended to mean an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and /or phosphorus. Hydrocarbon-based oil does not include any silicon atoms.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular, at least one Si-O group, such as dimethicone.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention can generally be, for example, from 2 to 7, preferably from 3 to 7, and more preferably from 4 to 6.

The composition according to the present invention can be manufactured according to techniques customary in the art, for example, by mixing ingredients (a) to (c). Said other ingredients may be mixed with these ingredients. By mixing these ingredients, they can be heated if necessary.

[Process and cosmetic use]

The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for or revitalizing the scalp, comprising the application to the scalp of the composition according to the present invention.

By cosmetic process, we mean here a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and/or revitalization of a keratinous material.

The application step can be carried out by any conventional means such as an applicator, for example the hands, a sprayer and a brush. The application step may be a topical application step.

The composition according to the present invention is intended to be used as a leave-on type cosmetic composition. Consequently, the cosmetic process according to the present invention does not include a step of rinsing or removing by washing the applied composition after the application step. In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic process of the present invention does not include a step of rinsing or removing by washing the applied composition within one hour, preferably within 2 hours, more preferably within 4 hours, and even more preferably within 8 hours after the application step.

Furthermore, the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention in the field of cosmetics, in particular the care and/or revitalization of the scalp.

The present invention also relates to a use of the (b) monoalcohol and the (c) hydrophilic thickener for stabilizing compositions comprising the (a) lipophilic solid active agent. The composition may comprise oil or oils in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition may be free of oils.

The same explanations given for the composition, (a) at least one solid lipophilic active agent, (b) at least one monoalcohol comprising 2 to 6 carbon atoms, (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener in the composition invention can be applied to those for the process and use according to the present invention. The composition used in the process and use according to the present invention may include any of the optional ingredients explained above for the composition according to the present invention.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail using examples. However, these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[Composition]

The compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were prepared in accordance with the following protocol. The formulations are shown in Table 1 below. Oryzanol was obtained from TSUNO RICE FINE CHEMICALS, sold under the name “Gamma Oryzanol”. In Table 1, all components are based on “% by weight” as active raw materials.

[Preparation protocol]

1) Add water-soluble ingredients, such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, nymphaea alba extract, propylene glycol, arginine and sugar compounds, if any, to the water

2) Stir until all ingredients are completely dissolved at room temperature.

3) Add oily or solid ingredients such as ginger extract and oryzanol. Pre-correct pH to a slightly acidic level (around 6)

4) Stir until all ingredients are completely dissolved at room temperature

5) Add sodium hyaluronate, ethanol, sclerotinia gum, xanthan gum, menthol and correct the final pH to 5.3.

[Assessment]

(Stability)

10 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were placed at different temperatures, namely 4°C, 25°C, 37°C or 45°C, for two months. Then, the appearance and change in viscosity of each of the compositions were evaluated with the following criteria.

-Viscosity

The viscosity of each of the compositions was measured with VISCOMAN™ (GILSON Technology) at room temperature.

OK: viscosity change after storage was 10% or less

NG: viscosity change after storage was greater than 10%

-Appearance

OK: No phase separation and color changes were observed at all temperatures.

NG: Phase separation and color change were observed at all temperatures.

The results are shown in Table 1.

Ingredients Example 1 comp. 2 comp. 3 Example 4 Ex. comp. 1 Comp. Example 2 Comp. Example 3 Oryzanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ethanol 20 5 5 5 - 5 20 Sclerotia gum 0.2 0.2 0.2 - 0.2 - - xanthan gum 0.15 0.15 - 0.15 0.15 - - Maltitol (and) sorbitol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Propylene glycol 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Gluconolactone 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Polyglyceryl-4 caprate 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Arginine 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 Ginger root extract 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Menthol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Nymphaea Alba Root Extract 0.003 0.003 0.003 0.003 0.003 0.003 0.003 Sodium hyaluronate 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 Sodium hydroxide qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 deionized water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Assessment Viscosity OK OK OK OK N.G. OK OK Appearance OK OK OK OK N.G. N.G. N.G.

As can be seen from the results shown in Table 1, the compositions according to Examples 1 to 4, which include ingredients (a) to (c) of the present invention, exhibited improved stability.

On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not include the monoalcohol, as well as Comparative Examples 2 and 3, which did not include the hydrophilic thickener, did not present good stability.

Consequently, it can be concluded that the composition according to the present invention is very preferable as a cosmetic composition for care and/or revitalization of the scalp, because it can provide stable compositions even if it comprises solid ingredients and does not include no substantial amount of oils.

Claims (10)

Scalp care composition, comprising:
(a) at least one lipophilic solid active agent,
(b) at least one monoalcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and
(c) at least one hydrophilic thickener. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) lipophilic solid active agent is an organic compound. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) lipophilic solid active agent is an active agent for the skin and/or scalp. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (a) solid lipophilic active agent is chosen from anti-aging active agents and active agents with anti-free radical properties or free radical scavengers for the skin and /or the scalp. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (a) lipophilic solid active agent is chosen from retinols (vitamin A) and derivatives such as retinol esters, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, carotenes including beta-carotene, tocopherol (vitamin E) and derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, vitamins D, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F glycerides, coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone, ceramides, organic acid esters and unsaponifiable materials having cosmetic and/or dermatological properties including tocotrienol, sesamin, phytosterols, squalenes, waxes and terpenes, preferably a ) pulverulent active agent is chosen from organic acid esters chosen from ethyl ferulate, oryzanol and in particular Gamma-oryzanol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (c) hydrophilic thickener is chosen from thickening polymers bearing sugar units. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (c) hydrophilic thickener is chosen from gums. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition is in a non-emulsion form, such as a solution, in particular an aqueous solution, and a serum. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition is a leave-on type cosmetic composition. Cosmetic process of caring for or revitalizing a scalp, comprising the step of applying to the scalp the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.