FR3130163A1 - Use of a hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Oenothera biennis for inducing and/or stimulating the growth of human keratin fibers and/or slowing their loss - Google Patents
Use of a hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Oenothera biennis for inducing and/or stimulating the growth of human keratin fibers and/or slowing their loss Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR3130163A1 FR3130163A1 FR2113584A FR2113584A FR3130163A1 FR 3130163 A1 FR3130163 A1 FR 3130163A1 FR 2113584 A FR2113584 A FR 2113584A FR 2113584 A FR2113584 A FR 2113584A FR 3130163 A1 FR3130163 A1 FR 3130163A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- mixture
- alcohol
- volume
- aerial parts
- hair
- Prior art date
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- Granted
Links
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 24
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 title claims abstract description 23
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 title claims abstract description 23
- 235000004496 Oenothera biennis Nutrition 0.000 title claims abstract description 19
- 230000012010 growth Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 18
- 240000008916 Oenothera biennis Species 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 229940045761 evening primrose extract Drugs 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 235000008524 evening primrose extract Nutrition 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 239000000399 hydroalcoholic extract Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 14
- 230000001939 inductive effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 5
- 230000004936 stimulating effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 5
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 29
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- 201000004384 Alopecia Diseases 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 210000004709 eyebrow Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 210000000720 eyelash Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 230000001225 therapeutic effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 201000002996 androgenic alopecia Diseases 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 claims abstract 7
- 238000000605 extraction Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 15
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 10
- FVQOMEDMFUMIMO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hyperosid Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OC1C(=O)C2=C(O)C=C(O)C=C2OC1C1=CC=C(O)C(O)=C1 FVQOMEDMFUMIMO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 4
- REFJWTPEDVJJIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Quercetin Chemical compound C=1C(O)=CC(O)=C(C(C=2O)=O)C=1OC=2C1=CC=C(O)C(O)=C1 REFJWTPEDVJJIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 4
- LNTHITQWFMADLM-UHFFFAOYSA-N gallic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC(O)=C(O)C(O)=C1 LNTHITQWFMADLM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 4
- VSUOKLTVXQRUSG-ZFORQUDYSA-N luteolin 7-O-beta-D-glucosiduronic acid Chemical compound O1[C@H](C(O)=O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1OC1=CC(O)=C2C(=O)C=C(C=3C=C(O)C(O)=CC=3)OC2=C1 VSUOKLTVXQRUSG-ZFORQUDYSA-N 0.000 claims 4
- AFSDNFLWKVMVRB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ellagic acid Chemical compound OC1=C(O)C(OC2=O)=C3C4=C2C=C(O)C(O)=C4OC(=O)C3=C1 AFSDNFLWKVMVRB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- ATJXMQHAMYVHRX-CPCISQLKSA-N Ellagic acid Natural products OC1=C(O)[C@H]2OC(=O)c3cc(O)c(O)c4OC(=O)C(=C1)[C@H]2c34 ATJXMQHAMYVHRX-CPCISQLKSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- 229920002079 Ellagic acid Polymers 0.000 claims 2
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 claims 2
- OVSQVDMCBVZWGM-SJWGPRHPSA-N Hyperin Natural products O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1OC1=C(C=2C=C(O)C(O)=CC=2)OC2=CC(O)=CC(O)=C2C1=O OVSQVDMCBVZWGM-SJWGPRHPSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- VSUOKLTVXQRUSG-UHFFFAOYSA-N Lgr Natural products O1C(C(O)=O)C(O)C(O)C(O)C1OC1=CC(O)=C2C(=O)C=C(C=3C=C(O)C(O)=CC=3)OC2=C1 VSUOKLTVXQRUSG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- DBCOQZCHOPRYAK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Luteolin-7-O-Glucuronid Natural products OC1OC(C(O)C(O)C1O)C(=O)Oc2cc(O)c3C(=O)C=C(Oc3c2)c4ccc(O)c(O)c4 DBCOQZCHOPRYAK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- BJKKYEKHHYWTQZ-ZRPSBEJESA-N Oenothein A Natural products O([C@H]([C@@H](OC(=O)c1cc(O)c(O)c(O)c1)[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)COC(=O)c2c(c(O)c(O)c(O)c2)-c2c(O)c(O)c(O)cc2C(=O)O1)C=O)C(=O)c1c(Oc2c(O)c(O)c3-c4c(O)c(O)c5Oc6c(O)c(O)c(O)cc6C(=O)O[C@H](C=O)[C@H](OC(=O)c6cc(O)c(O)c(O)c6)[C@H]6[C@H](O)COC(=O)c7c(c(O)c(O)c(Oc8c(O)c(O)c(O)cc8C(=O)O[C@@H](C=O)[C@H](OC(=O)c8cc(O)c(O)c(O)c8)[C@H]([C@@H](O)COC(=O)c3c2)OC(=O)c4c5)c7)-c2c(O)c(O)c(O)cc2C(=O)O6)c(O)c(O)c(O)c1 BJKKYEKHHYWTQZ-ZRPSBEJESA-N 0.000 claims 2
- ZVOLCUVKHLEPEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Quercetagetin Natural products C1=C(O)C(O)=CC=C1C1=C(O)C(=O)C2=C(O)C(O)=C(O)C=C2O1 ZVOLCUVKHLEPEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- QJTYCCFDQWFJHU-UHFFFAOYSA-N Quercetin-5-O-beta-D-glucopyranoside Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OC1=CC(O)=CC2=C1C(=O)C(O)=C(C=1C=C(O)C(O)=CC=1)O2 QJTYCCFDQWFJHU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- DUBCCGAQYVUYEU-UHFFFAOYSA-N Querciturone Natural products O1C(C(O)=O)C(O)C(O)C(O)C1OC1=C(C=2C=C(O)C(O)=CC=2)OC2=CC(O)=CC(O)=C2C1=O DUBCCGAQYVUYEU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- HWTZYBCRDDUBJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Rhynchosin Natural products C1=C(O)C(O)=CC=C1C1=C(O)C(=O)C2=CC(O)=C(O)C=C2O1 HWTZYBCRDDUBJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 claims 2
- 235000004132 ellagic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims 2
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- YSLFLCIPPPJEHH-UHFFFAOYSA-N glarein a Chemical compound OC1OC(C2OC(=O)C3=C4)COC(=O)C5=CC(O)=C(O)C(O)=C5C3=C(O)C(O)=C4OC3=C(O)C(O)=C(O)C=C3C(=O)OC(C(C3OC(=O)C4=CC(O)=C(O)C(O)=C4C4=C(O)C=5O)OC(=O)C=6C=C(O)C(O)=C(O)C=6)C(O)OC3COC(=O)C4=CC=5OC3=C(O)C(O)=C(O)C=C3C(=O)OC1C2OC(=O)C1=CC(O)=C(O)C(O)=C1 YSLFLCIPPPJEHH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- NQYPTLKGQJDGTI-FCVRJVSHSA-N hyperoside Natural products OC[C@H]1O[C@@H](OC2=C(Oc3cc(O)cc(O)c3[C@H]2O)c4ccc(O)c(O)c4)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H]1O NQYPTLKGQJDGTI-FCVRJVSHSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- GXMWXESSGGEWEM-UHFFFAOYSA-N isoquercitrin Natural products OCC(O)C1OC(OC2C(Oc3cc(O)cc(O)c3C2=O)c4ccc(O)c(O)c4)C(O)C1O GXMWXESSGGEWEM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- MWDZOUNAPSSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaempferol Natural products OC1=C(C(=O)c2cc(O)cc(O)c2O1)c3ccc(O)cc3 MWDZOUNAPSSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- FAARLWTXUUQFSN-UHFFFAOYSA-N methylellagic acid Natural products O1C(=O)C2=CC(O)=C(O)C3=C2C2=C1C(OC)=C(O)C=C2C(=O)O3 FAARLWTXUUQFSN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- DUBCCGAQYVUYEU-ZUGPOPFOSA-N miquelianin Chemical compound O1[C@H](C(O)=O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1OC1=C(C=2C=C(O)C(O)=CC=2)OC2=CC(O)=CC(O)=C2C1=O DUBCCGAQYVUYEU-ZUGPOPFOSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- BZHGJOKQDLMGGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N oenothein B Natural products OC1OC2COC(=O)c3cc(O)c(O)c(O)c3c4c(O)c(O)c5Oc6c(O)c(O)c(O)cc6C(=O)OC7C(O)OC8COC(=O)c9cc(Oc%10c(O)c(O)c(O)cc%10C(=O)OC1C(OC=O)C2OC(=O)c4c5)c(O)c(O)c9c%11c(O)c(O)c(O)cc%11C(=O)OC8C7OC(=O)c%12cc(O)c(O)c(O)c%12 BZHGJOKQDLMGGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- YHUCFFIAACFPCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N oenothein F Natural products OC1OC(C2OC(=O)C3=C4)COC(=O)C5=CC(O)=C(O)C(O)=C5C3=C(O)C(O)=C4OC3=C(O)C(O)=C(O)C=C3C(=O)OC(C(C3OC(=O)C4=C5)OC(=O)C=6C=C(O)C(O)=C(O)C=6)C(O)OC3COC(=O)C3=CC(O)=C(O)C(O)=C3C4=C(O)C(O)=C5OC3=C(O)C(O)=C(O)C=C3C(=O)OC1C2OC(=O)C1=CC(O)=C(O)C(O)=C1 YHUCFFIAACFPCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- BJKKYEKHHYWTQZ-BHGGTIJZSA-N oenothein a Chemical compound O([C@@H]([C@@H]1OC(=O)C2=CC(O)=C(O)C(O)=C2C2=C(O)C(O)=C(O)C=C2C(=O)OC[C@H]1O)[C@@H](OC(=O)C=1C(=C(O)C(O)=C(O)C=1)OC=1C(=C(O)C2=C(C(OC[C@@H](O)[C@@H]3[C@H](OC(=O)C=4C=C(O)C(O)=C(O)C=4)[C@H](C=O)OC(=O)C4=CC(O)=C(O)C(O)=C4OC4=C(O)C(O)=C5C6=C(O)C(O)=C(O)C=C6C(=O)O[C@H]([C@@H](COC(=O)C5=C4)O)[C@H](OC(=O)C=4C=C(O)C(O)=C(O)C=4)[C@H](C=O)OC(=O)C4=CC(O)=C(O)C(O)=C4OC4=C(O)C(O)=C2C(C(=O)O3)=C4)=O)C=1)O)C=O)C(=O)C1=CC(O)=C(O)C(O)=C1 BJKKYEKHHYWTQZ-BHGGTIJZSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims 2
- 229960001285 quercetin Drugs 0.000 claims 2
- 235000005875 quercetin Nutrition 0.000 claims 2
- OVSQVDMCBVZWGM-DTGCRPNFSA-N quercetin 3-O-beta-D-galactopyranoside Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1OC1=C(C=2C=C(O)C(O)=CC=2)OC2=CC(O)=CC(O)=C2C1=O OVSQVDMCBVZWGM-DTGCRPNFSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- OVSQVDMCBVZWGM-QSOFNFLRSA-N quercetin 3-O-beta-D-glucopyranoside Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1OC1=C(C=2C=C(O)C(O)=CC=2)OC2=CC(O)=CC(O)=C2C1=O OVSQVDMCBVZWGM-QSOFNFLRSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- SZDMSNWMQAMVTJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N quercetin-3-O-glucoside Natural products OC1OC(COC2=C(C(=O)c3cc(O)cc(O)c3O2)c4ccc(O)c(O)c4)C(O)C(O)C1O SZDMSNWMQAMVTJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- FZKBNCDAGYDHTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N quercetin-3-O-glycoside Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(O)OC1COC1=C(C=2C=C(O)C(O)=CC=2)OC2=CC(O)=CC(O)=C2C1=O FZKBNCDAGYDHTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- LOJXBHNAFUDMIQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N quercetin-3-alpha-glucuronide Natural products OC1OC(C(O)C(O)C1O)C(=O)Oc1c(oc2cc(O)cc(O)c2c1=O)-c1ccc(O)c(O)c1 LOJXBHNAFUDMIQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- DUBCCGAQYVUYEU-GGTBVAQXSA-N quercetin-3-glucuronide Natural products O1[C@H](C(O)=O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC1=C(C=2C=C(O)C(O)=CC=2)OC2=CC(O)=CC(O)=C2C1=O DUBCCGAQYVUYEU-GGTBVAQXSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims 1
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- 230000003676 hair loss Effects 0.000 description 11
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- 230000014509 gene expression Effects 0.000 description 4
- 210000003780 hair follicle Anatomy 0.000 description 4
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- YTKGAYFHUZTLCI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-hydroxy-2-iminopyrimidin-4-amine Chemical compound NC1=CC=NC(=N)N1O YTKGAYFHUZTLCI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 102000008186 Collagen Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108010035532 Collagen Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 208000003024 Diffuse alopecia Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 102100032742 Histone-lysine N-methyltransferase SETD2 Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 101000654725 Homo sapiens Histone-lysine N-methyltransferase SETD2 Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 102000002177 Hypoxia-inducible factor-1 alpha Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108050009527 Hypoxia-inducible factor-1 alpha Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 208000002720 Malnutrition Diseases 0.000 description 1
- ZFMITUMMTDLWHR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Minoxidil Chemical compound NC1=[N+]([O-])C(N)=CC(N2CCCCC2)=N1 ZFMITUMMTDLWHR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QNVSXXGDAPORNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Resveratrol Natural products OC1=CC=CC(C=CC=2C=C(O)C(O)=CC=2)=C1 QNVSXXGDAPORNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LUKBXSAWLPMMSZ-OWOJBTEDSA-N Trans-resveratrol Chemical compound C1=CC(O)=CC=C1\C=C\C1=CC(O)=CC(O)=C1 LUKBXSAWLPMMSZ-OWOJBTEDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000001133 acceleration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009471 action Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000032683 aging Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000004075 alteration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003656 anti-hair-loss Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000008236 biological pathway Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920001436 collagen Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- MUUDQLHCIAOWPR-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethyl pyridine-2,4-dicarboxylate Chemical compound CCOC(=O)C1=CC=NC(C(=O)OCC)=C1 MUUDQLHCIAOWPR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 208000012412 genetic alopecia Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000003648 hair appearance Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003779 hair growth Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000003128 head Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000003054 hormonal effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001976 improved effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000016507 interphase Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000002955 isolation Methods 0.000 description 1
- GGXICVAJURFBLW-CEYXHVGTSA-N latanoprost Chemical compound CC(C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C[C@H]1[C@@H](O)C[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1CC[C@@H](O)CCC1=CC=CC=C1 GGXICVAJURFBLW-CEYXHVGTSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960001160 latanoprost Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000001071 malnutrition Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 229960003632 minoxidil Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 208000015380 nutritional deficiency disease Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q7/00—Preparations for affecting hair growth
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Pharmaceuticals Containing Other Organic And Inorganic Compounds (AREA)
Abstract
Utilisation d'un extrait hydro-alcoolique de parties aériennes d’ Oenothera biennis pour induire et/ou stimuler la croissance des fibres kératiniques humaines et/ou freiner leur chute L’invention concerne une utilisation cosmétique non thérapeutique d'un extrait hydro-alcoolique de parties aériennes d’Oenothera biennis pour induire et/ou stimuler la croissance des fibres kératiniques humaines telles que les cheveux, les cils, les poils, et les sourcils et/ou freiner leur chute, et en particulier pour traiter l’alopécie androgénique. L’invention concerne également un procédé de traitement non thérapeutique des fibres kératiniques humaines et/ou du cuir chevelu, comprenant l’application d’une composition cosmétique comprenant ledit extrait sur lesdites fibres comme les cheveux, les cils, les poils, et les sourcils, et/ou sur le cuir chevelu, pour induire et/ou stimuler la croissance et/ou freiner la chute desdites fibres.Use of a hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Oenothera biennis for inducing and/or stimulating the growth of human keratin fibers and/or slowing their loss The invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Oenothera biennis for inducing and/or stimulating the growth of human keratinous fibers such as hair, eyelashes, body hair and eyebrows and/or slowing down their loss, and in particular for treating androgenic alopecia. The invention also relates to a method for the non-therapeutic treatment of human keratin fibers and/or of the scalp, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract to said fibers such as the hair, the eyelashes, body hair, and the eyebrows. , and/or on the scalp, to induce and/or stimulate the growth and/or slow down the loss of said fibres.
Description
La présente invention se rapporte au domaine du soin du cuir chevelu et des fibres kératiniques, plus particulièrement au domaine de la croissance des fibres kératiniques, et de la prévention de leur chute.The present invention relates to the field of care for the scalp and keratin fibers, more particularly to the field of the growth of keratin fibers, and the prevention of their loss.
La présente invention concerne une utilisation cosmétique non thérapeutique d’un extrait hydro-alcoolique de parties aériennes d’Oenothera biennispour induire et/ou stimuler la croissance et/ou freiner la chute desdites fibres.The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Oenothera biennis to induce and/or stimulate the growth and/or slow down the loss of said fibres.
L’invention concerne également un procédé de traitement cosmétique non thérapeutique des fibres kératiniques humaines et/ou du cuir chevelu mettant en œuvre une composition cosmétique comprenant ledit extrait hydro-alcoolique de parties aériennes d’Oenothera biennispour induire et/ou stimuler la croissance et/ou freiner la chute desdites fibres.The invention also relates to a method for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of human keratin fibers and/or the scalp using a cosmetic composition comprising said hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Oenothera biennis to induce and/or stimulate the growth and / or slow down the fall of said fibers.
La croissance des cheveux et leur renouvellement sont principalement déterminés par l’activité des follicules pileux et leur environnement matriciel. Leur activité est cyclique et comporte essentiellement trois phases à savoir la phase anagène, la phase catagène et la phase télogène.Hair growth and renewal are mainly determined by the activity of hair follicles and their matrix environment. Their activity is cyclical and essentially comprises three phases, namely the anagen phase, the catagen phase and the telogen phase.
A la phase anagène (phase active ou de croissance), qui dure plusieurs années et au cours de laquelle les cheveux s’allongent, succède une phase catagène très courte et transitoire qui dure quelques semaines, puis une phase télogène ou phase de repos qui dure quelques mois. A la fin de la période de repos, les cheveux tombent et un autre cycle recommence. La chevelure se renouvelle donc en permanence et sur les 150 000 cheveux environ que comporte une chevelure, 10% environ sont au repos et seront remplacés dans les mois qui viennent. La chute ou perte naturelle des cheveux peut être estimée, en moyenne, à quelques cent cheveux par jour pour un état physiologique normal. Ce processus de renouvellement physique permanent subit une évolution naturelle au cours du vieillissement, les cheveux deviennent plus fins et leurs cycles plus courts. En outre, différentes causes peuvent entraîner une perte importante, temporaire ou définitive, des cheveux. La chute des cheveux, en particulier l'alopécie, est essentiellement due à des perturbations du renouvellement capillaire. Ces perturbations entraînent dans un premier temps l’accélération de la fréquence des cycles au détriment de la qualité des cheveux, puis de leur quantité. Il se produit une miniaturisation progressive des bulbes, avec conjointement, un isolement de ceux-ci par épaississement progressif de la matrice collagénique péri-folliculaire ainsi que de la gaine conjonctive externe. La revascularisation autour du follicule pileux est donc rendue plus difficile cycle après cycle. Les cheveux régressent, se miniaturisant jusqu’à n’être plus qu'un duvet non pigmenté et ce phénomène entraîne un appauvrissement progressif de la chevelure. C’est en nombre et en diamètre moyen que sont affectés les follicules pileux qui constituent la chevelure. Des zones sont touchées préférentiellement, notamment les golfes temporaux ou frontaux chez l'homme, et chez les femmes, on constate une alopécie diffuse du vertex.The anagen phase (active or growth phase), which lasts several years and during which the hair lengthens, is followed by a very short and transient catagen phase which lasts a few weeks, then a telogen phase or resting phase which lasts some months. At the end of the rest period, the hair falls out and another cycle begins again. The hair is therefore constantly renewed and of the approximately 150,000 hairs in a head of hair, approximately 10% are at rest and will be replaced in the coming months. The fall or natural loss of hair can be estimated, on average, at a few hundred hairs per day for a normal physiological state. This process of permanent physical renewal undergoes a natural evolution during aging, the hair becomes finer and its cycles shorter. In addition, different causes can lead to significant, temporary or permanent hair loss. Hair loss, in particular alopecia, is essentially due to disturbances in capillary renewal. These disturbances initially lead to an acceleration of the frequency of the cycles to the detriment of the quality of the hair, then of their quantity. There is a progressive miniaturization of the bulbs, together with an isolation of these by progressive thickening of the collagen matrix perifollicular as well as of the external connective sheath. Revascularization around the hair follicle is therefore made more difficult cycle after cycle. The hair regresses, miniaturizing until it is no more than an unpigmented down and this phenomenon leads to a progressive impoverishment of the hair. It is in number and average diameter that the hair follicles that make up the hair are affected. Areas are preferentially affected, in particular the temporal or frontal gulfs in men, and in women, there is diffuse alopecia of the vertex.
Le terme alopécie recouvre aussi toute une famille d'atteintes du follicule pileux ayant pour conséquence finale la perte définitive, partielle ou générale des cheveux. Il s'agit plus particulièrement de l'alopécie androgénique. Dans un nombre important de cas, la chute précoce des cheveux survient chez des sujets prédisposés génétiquement, il s’agit alors d’alopécie andro-chrono-génétique ; cette forme d’alopécie concerne notamment les hommes. Il est connu, par ailleurs, que certains facteurs tels qu'un déséquilibre hormonal, un stress physiologique, la malnutrition, peuvent accentuer le phénomène. En outre, la chute ou l'altération des cheveux peut être en relation avec des phénomènes saisonniers.The term alopecia also covers a whole family of damage to the hair follicle, the final consequence of which is the permanent, partial or general loss of hair. It is more particularly about androgenic alopecia. In a significant number of cases, early hair loss occurs in genetically predisposed subjects, it is then a question of andro-chrono-genetic alopecia; This form of alopecia mainly affects men. It is known, moreover, that certain factors such as hormonal imbalance, physiological stress, malnutrition, can accentuate the phenomenon. In addition, hair loss or alteration may be related to seasonal phenomena.
La perte de densité capillaire et la chute de cheveux sont souvent ressentis comme affligeants par les personnes qui en sont atteintes, notamment lorsqu’elles sont encore jeunes.Loss of hair density and hair loss are often experienced as distressing by people who suffer from it, especially when they are still young.
Des actifs pharmacologiques tels que le minoxidil, le latanoprost, le fluridil, la spironolactone et leurs associations sont connus.Pharmacological active agents such as minoxidil, latanoprost, fluridil, spironolactone and their associations are known.
D’autres produits existent et appartiennent au domaine cosmétique. Parmi eux, on peut citer par exemple l’aminexil® et la stémoxydine®.Other products exist and belong to the cosmetics field. Among them, we can cite, for example, aminexil® and stémoxydine®.
Néanmoins, les consommateurs sont de plus en plus à la recherche d’alternatives naturelles efficaces, qui retarderaient le processus de « perte de densité capillaire » ou de « chute excessive de cheveux ».Nevertheless, consumers are increasingly looking for effective natural alternatives, which would delay the process of “loss of hair density” or “excessive hair loss”.
Ainsi, il existe un besoin de proposer des actifs naturels qui permettent de prévenir et/ou traiter efficacement la perte de densité capillaire.Thus, there is a need to provide natural active agents which make it possible to effectively prevent and/or treat the loss of capillary density.
La Demanderesse a trouvé de manière étonnante qu’un extrait hydro-alcoolique de parties aériennes d’Onagre (Oenothera biennis) permet de moduler le niveau d’expression d'une série de gènes associés à la voie biologique HIF-1, cette voie étant connue dans la littérature pour son implication dans la chute du cheveu (F Juchaux, T Sellathurai, V Perrault, F Boirre, P Delannoy, K Bakkar, J Albaud, A Gueniche, A Cheniti, S Dal Belo, L Souverain, M Le Balch, S Commo, S Thibaut, J F Michelet. “A combination of pyridine-2, 4-dicarboxylic acid diethyl ester and resveratrol stabilizes hypoxia-inducible factor 1-alpha and improves hair density in female volunteers”, Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020 Apr;42(2):167-173). Ainsi, l’extrait hydro-alcoolique de parties aériennes d’Onagre (Oenothera biennis) présente des propriétés intéressantes comme actif permettant d’induire et/ou stimuler la croissance des fibres kératiniques humaines telles que les cheveux, les cils, les poils, et les sourcils et/ou freiner leur chute, et en particulier pour traiter l’alopécie androgénique.The Applicant has surprisingly found that a hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Evening Primrose ( Oenothera biennis ) makes it possible to modulate the level of expression of a series of genes associated with the HIF-1 biological pathway, this pathway being known in the literature for its involvement in hair loss (F Juchaux, T Sellathurai, V Perrault, F Boirre, P Delannoy, K Bakkar, J Albaud, A Gueniche, A Cheniti, S Dal Belo, L Souverain, M Le Balch , S Commo, S Thibaut, JF Michelet. “A combination of pyridine-2, 4-dicarboxylic acid diethyl ester and resveratrol stabilizes hypoxia-inducible factor 1-alpha and improves hair density in female volunteers”, Int J Cosmetic Sci. 2020 Apr ;42(2):167-173). Thus, the hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Evening Primrose ( Oenothera biennis ) has interesting properties as an active ingredient making it possible to induce and/or stimulate the growth of human keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, body hair, and eyebrows and/or stop their fall, and in particular to treat androgenic alopecia.
A la connaissance de la Demanderesse, l’utilisation d’extrait hydro-alcoolique de parties aériennes d’Onagre (Oenothera biennis) pour induire et/ou stimuler la croissance des fibres kératiniques humaines et/ou freiner leur chute n’a jamais été divulguée auparavant.To the Applicant's knowledge, the use of hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Evening Primrose ( Oenothera biennis ) to induce and/or stimulate the growth of human keratin fibers and/or slow down their loss has never been disclosed. previously.
Il a cependant été divulgué dans la littérature l’huile extraite à partir de graines d’Oenothera biennispour son action anti-chute. En revanche, pour l’homme de l’art, une huile végétale grasse issue de graines est différente d’un extrait hydroalcoolique issu des parties aériennes non seulement par sa physicochimie et mais également par sa composition. De plus, l’extraction hydroalcoolique favorise l’extraction des composés polaires à moyennement polaires et défavorise par conséquent l’extraction d’acides gras quand bien même ceux-ci seraient présents dans les parties aériennes. Par ailleurs, il est connu que les graines sont généralement naturellement riches en corps gras à la différence des parties aériennes.However, the oil extracted from the seeds of Oenothera biennis has been disclosed in the literature for its anti-hair loss action. On the other hand, for those skilled in the art, a fatty vegetable oil obtained from seeds is different from a hydroalcoholic extract obtained from the aerial parts not only by its physicochemistry but also by its composition. In addition, hydroalcoholic extraction favors the extraction of polar to moderately polar compounds and therefore disadvantages the extraction of fatty acids even if these are present in the aerial parts. Furthermore, it is known that the seeds are generally naturally rich in fatty substances, unlike the aerial parts.
L’invention a donc pour objet l’utilisation cosmétique non thérapeutique d'un extrait hydro-alcoolique de parties aériennes d’Oenothera biennispour induire et/ou stimuler la croissance des fibres kératiniques humaines telles que les cheveux, les cils, les poils, et les sourcils et/ou freiner leur chute, et en particulier pour traiter l’alopécie androgénique.The invention therefore relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Oenothera biennis to induce and/or stimulate the growth of human keratin fibers such as the hair, the eyelashes, body hair, and the eyebrows and/or to slow down their fall, and in particular to treat androgenic alopecia.
L’extrait hydro-alcoolique de parties aériennes d’Oenothera biennispermet en outre d’obtenir des effets améliorés sur la chevelure notamment concernant la densité capillaire.The hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Oenothera biennis also makes it possible to obtain improved effects on the hair, in particular concerning the hair density.
La chevelure apparaît plus volumineuse, en particulier dans le cas de cheveux fins.The hair appears more voluminous, especially in the case of fine hair.
La présente invention concerne également un procédé de traitement cosmétique non thérapeutique des fibres kératiniques humaines et/ou du cuir chevelu, comprenant l’application d’une composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un extrait hydro-alcoolique de parties aériennes d’Oenothera biennissur lesdites fibres comme les cheveux, les cils, les poils, et les sourcils, et/ou sur le cuir chevelu, pour induire et/ou stimuler la croissance et/ou freiner la chute desdites fibres.The present invention also relates to a method for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of human keratin fibers and/or of the scalp, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one hydro-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Oenothera biennis to said fibers such as the hair, the eyelashes, body hair, and the eyebrows, and/or on the scalp, to induce and/or stimulate the growth and/or slow down the loss of said fibres.
D'autres objets, caractéristiques, aspects et avantages de l'invention apparaîtront encore plus clairement à la lecture de la description et de l’exemple qui suit.Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follow.
Dans ce qui va suivre, et à moins d’une autre indication, les bornes d’un domaine de valeurs sont comprises dans ce domaine, notamment dans les expressions « compris entre » et « allant de … à … ».In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “included between” and “ranging from … to …”.
Par ailleurs, l’expression « au moins un » utilisée dans la présente description est équivalente à l’expression « un ou plusieurs ».Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
DéfinitionDefinition
On entend par « composition cosmétique » au sens de la présente invention, une composition comprenant un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, c’est-à-dire un milieu compatible avec la peau.The term "cosmetic composition" within the meaning of the present invention means a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with the skin.
On entend par « fibres kératiniques » au sens de la présente invention, les fibres kératiniques telles que les cheveux, les poils, les sourcils, les cils.The term "keratin fibers" within the meaning of the present invention, keratin fibers such as hair, body hair, eyebrows, eyelashes.
On entend par « freiner la chute des fibres kératiniques » au sens de la présente invention, ralentir ou diminuer la chute des fibres kératiniques.The term "slowing down the fall of keratin fibres" within the meaning of the present invention means slowing down or reducing the fall of keratin fibres.
Par « stimuler la croissance des fibres kératiniques » on entend au sens de la présente invention, favoriser ou améliorer la croissance des fibres kératiniques existantes, notamment la longueur des fibre kératiniques existantes.By “stimulating the growth of keratin fibres” is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, promoting or improving the growth of existing keratin fibres, in particular the length of existing keratin fibres.
Par « induire la croissance des fibres kératiniques » on entend au sens de la présente invention, favoriser ou améliorer la croissance de nouvelles fibres kératiniques, notamment la densité des fibres kératiniques (par la croissance de nouvelles fibres kératiniques).By “inducing the growth of keratin fibers” is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, promoting or improving the growth of new keratin fibers, in particular the density of keratin fibers (by the growth of new keratin fibers).
Claims (10)
- broyage en fines particules des parties aériennes séchées d’Oenothera biennisdans un broyeur;
- extraction par macération dans un mélange d’eau et d’au moins un alcool, à une température de 15°C à 45°C, en particulier de 15°C à 40°C et notamment à température ambiante, notamment en introduisant de 10g à 500g de poudre de plante obtenue en a, par litre de mélange d’eau et d’alcool, en particulier de 50g à 200g, et plus particulièrement de 70g à 150g tel que 100g de poudre de plante obtenue en a, par litre de mélange d’eau et d’alcool, et en maintenant à cette température pendant 1 à 5 heures, notamment 1 à 3h, en particulier 1h30 à 2h30 tel que 2 heures; puis
- filtration du mélange obtenu en b ;
- évaporation partielle ou totale de l’alcool dans le mélange filtré obtenu en c; et
- éventuellement lyophilisation du résidu aqueux obtenu en d.
- grinding the dried aerial parts of Oenothera biennis into fine particles in a grinder;
- extraction by maceration in a mixture of water and at least one alcohol, at a temperature of 15°C to 45°C, in particular from 15°C to 40°C and in particular at room temperature, in particular by introducing 10g to 500g of plant powder obtained in a, per liter of water and alcohol mixture, in particular from 50g to 200g, and more particularly from 70g to 150g such as 100g of plant powder obtained in a, per liter of mixture of water and alcohol, and maintaining at this temperature for 1 to 5 hours, in particular 1 to 3 hours, in particular 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours 30 minutes, such as 2 hours; Then
- filtration of the mixture obtained in b;
- partial or total evaporation of the alcohol in the filtered mixture obtained in c; And
- optionally lyophilization of the aqueous residue obtained in d.
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FR2113584A FR3130163B1 (en) | 2021-12-15 | 2021-12-15 | Use of a hydroalcoholic extract of aerial parts of Oenothera biennis to induce and/or stimulate the growth of human keratin fibers and/or slow their loss |
PCT/EP2022/085642 WO2023110882A1 (en) | 2021-12-15 | 2022-12-13 | Use of an aqueous-alcoholic extract of aerial parts of oenothera biennis to induce and/or stimulate the growth of human keratin fibres and/or to slow down the loss thereof |
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FR2113584A FR3130163B1 (en) | 2021-12-15 | 2021-12-15 | Use of a hydroalcoholic extract of aerial parts of Oenothera biennis to induce and/or stimulate the growth of human keratin fibers and/or slow their loss |
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