FR3128230A1 - METHOD FOR ASSESSING THE RATE OF PROTECTION OF AN ACTIVE INGREDIENT AND ACTIVE INGREDIENT HAVING THE RATE OF PROTECTION THUS EVALUATED AGAINST PIGMENTATION INDUCED BY VISIBLE LIGHT - Google Patents

METHOD FOR ASSESSING THE RATE OF PROTECTION OF AN ACTIVE INGREDIENT AND ACTIVE INGREDIENT HAVING THE RATE OF PROTECTION THUS EVALUATED AGAINST PIGMENTATION INDUCED BY VISIBLE LIGHT Download PDF

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FR3128230A1
FR3128230A1 FR2110966A FR2110966A FR3128230A1 FR 3128230 A1 FR3128230 A1 FR 3128230A1 FR 2110966 A FR2110966 A FR 2110966A FR 2110966 A FR2110966 A FR 2110966A FR 3128230 A1 FR3128230 A1 FR 3128230A1
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oxide
blp
protection
cosmetic
composition containing
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Jean-Noël Thorel
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Naos Institute of Life Science SAS
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Naos Institute of Life Science SAS
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Priority to FR2110966A priority Critical patent/FR3128230A1/en
Priority to PCT/FR2022/051923 priority patent/WO2023062318A1/en
Publication of FR3128230A1 publication Critical patent/FR3128230A1/en
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    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N21/00—Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
    • G01N21/17—Systems in which incident light is modified in accordance with the properties of the material investigated
    • G01N21/25—Colour; Spectral properties, i.e. comparison of effect of material on the light at two or more different wavelengths or wavelength bands
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/28—Zirconium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N21/00—Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
    • G01N21/84—Systems specially adapted for particular applications
    • G01N21/8422—Investigating thin films, e.g. matrix isolation method
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G01—MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N21/00—Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
    • G01N21/84—Systems specially adapted for particular applications
    • G01N21/8422—Investigating thin films, e.g. matrix isolation method
    • G01N2021/8427—Coatings

Abstract

L’invention concerne une méthode de sélection d’une composition écobiologique permettant de lutter contre la pigmentation et l’hyperpigmentation induites par la lumière visible et la sélection d’ingrédients et de compositions ainsi évalués. Cette méthode comprend le calcul d’un taux de protection BLP utilisant la mesure de la couleur de la peau par une mesure de l’ITA ou la mesure de l’absorbance de la composition entre deux longueurs d’onde. L’invention utilise une méthode simple et peu coûteuse utilisable à l’échelle industrielle permet d’évaluer un principe actif ou une composition et de sélectionner ceux et celles qui permettent une protection efficace avec un BLP d’au moins 50 %, noté BLP 50 ou BLP 50+.The invention relates to a method of selecting an ecobiological composition for combating pigmentation and hyperpigmentation induced by visible light and the selection of ingredients and compositions thus evaluated. This method includes the calculation of a BLP protection rate using the measurement of the color of the skin by a measurement of the ITA or the measurement of the absorbance of the composition between two wavelengths. The invention uses a simple and inexpensive method that can be used on an industrial scale, makes it possible to evaluate an active ingredient or a composition and to select those which allow effective protection with a BLP of at least 50%, denoted BLP 50 or BLP 50+.

Description

METHODE D’EVALUATION DU TAUX DE PROTECTION D’UN PRINCIPE ACTIF ET PRINCIPE ACTIF POSSEDANT LE TAUX DE PROTECTION AINSI EVALUE CONTRE LA PIGMENTATION INDUITE PAR LA LUMIERE VISIBLEMETHOD FOR ASSESSING THE RATE OF PROTECTION OF AN ACTIVE INGREDIENT AND ACTIVE INGREDIENT HAVING THE RATE OF PROTECTION THUS EVALUATED AGAINST PIGMENTATION INDUCED BY VISIBLE LIGHT

DOMAINE DE L’INVENTIONFIELD OF THE INVENTION

L’invention concerne une méthode de mesure de l’effet de protection ou du taux de protection contre l’hyperpigmentation induite par la lumière visible, d’ingrédients actifs et de composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique, une méthode de sélection d’ingrédients actifs et de composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique écobiologique ayant des propriétés de filtration significative de la lumière visible, afin de permettre de réduire la formation de taches pigmentaires, et les compositions écobiologiques ainsi sélectionnées.The invention relates to a method for measuring the protective effect or the rate of protection against hyperpigmentation induced by visible light, of active ingredients and of cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, a method of selecting active ingredients and ecobiological cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition having properties of significant filtering of visible light, in order to make it possible to reduce the formation of pigment spots, and the ecobiological compositions thus selected.

ETAT DE LA TECHNIQUESTATE OF THE ART

La lumière dite visible est composée des longueurs d’onde allant de 400 à 800 nm. Selon certains auteurs, les limites de cette plage peuvent être différentes, la limite inférieure étant comprise entre 320 et 480 nm, et la limite supérieure étant comprise entre 720 et 880 nm.Visible light is composed of wavelengths ranging from 400 to 800 nm. According to some authors, the limits of this range can be different, the lower limit being between 320 and 480 nm, and the upper limit being between 720 and 880 nm.

Dans le spectre des rayonnements électromagnétiques, la lumière visible est entourée par les rayons UV (en dessous de 400 nm), et par les infrarouges (au-dessus de 800 nm).In the spectrum of electromagnetic radiation, visible light is surrounded by UV rays (below 400 nm), and by infrared (above 800 nm).

La lumière visible contient toutes les couleurs de l’arc-en-ciel, allant du bleu, la plus énergétique, au rouge, la moins énergétique, en passant par le vert et le jaune.Visible light contains all the colors of the rainbow, ranging from blue, the most energetic, to red, the least energetic, through green and yellow.

Or, il a été démontré que la lumière visible était très importante dans les problèmes d’hyperpigmentation. Ainsi par exemple l’irradiation de volontaires de phototypes III à IV avec de la lumière bleue (415 nm) induit une pigmentation. En revanche, la lumière rouge (630 nm) n’induit pas de pigmentation (Duteil et al. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res 2014 Sep; 27(5): 822-6) https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24888214/However, visible light has been shown to be very important in hyperpigmentation problems. For example, the irradiation of phototype III to IV volunteers with blue light (415 nm) induces pigmentation. In contrast, red light (630 nm) does not induce pigmentation (Duteil et al. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res 2014 Sep;27(5):822-6) https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov /24888214/

Par ailleurs, chez des patientes atteintes de mélasma, l’utilisation d’une composition de très haute protection solaire (SPF 50+) teintée est significativement plus efficace pour protéger des rechutes de mélasma par rapport à un produit de très haute protection solaire (SPF 50+) non teinté (Boukari et al., J Am Acad Dermatol, 2015 Jan; 72(1): 189-190) https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25443629/Furthermore, in patients with melasma, the use of a tinted composition with very high sun protection (SPF 50+) is significantly more effective in protecting against relapses of melasma compared to a product with very high sun protection (SPF 50+). 50+) untinted (Boukari et al., J Am Acad Dermatol, 2015 Jan; 72(1): 189-190) https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25443629/

Enfin, des recherches plus récentes suggèrent que des récepteurs situés au niveau des mélanocytes, les récepteurs Opsine 3, jouent un rôle prépondérant dans l’induction de la pigmentation par la lumière visible. Ce récepteur absorbe les longueurs d’onde courtes de la lumière visible, jusqu’à 465 nm (Regazzetti et al., J Invest Dermatol., 2018 Jan; 138(1): 171-178).https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28842328/Finally, more recent research suggests that receptors located at the level of melanocytes, Opsin 3 receptors, play a major role in the induction of pigmentation by visible light. This receptor absorbs short wavelengths of visible light, up to 465 nm (Regazzetti et al., J Invest Dermatol., 2018 Jan; 138(1): 171-178).https://pubmed.ncbi .nlm.nih.gov/28842328/

En 2021, un indice de protection contre la lumière visible a été établi : le VL-PF (Visible Light-Protection Factor), ou IP-VL en français (Indice de Protection contre la Lumière Visible) (Duteil et al, Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed., 2017 Sep; 33(5): 260-266) (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28602025/).In 2021, an index of protection against visible light was established: the VL-PF (Visible Light-Protection Factor), or IP-VL in French (Index of Protection against Visible Light) (Duteil et al, Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed ., 2017 Sep;33(5):260-266) (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28602025/).

Cet indice est donné par l’équation suivante :This index is given by the following equation:

ITA0signifie Angle de Typologie Individuel, calculé à partir des mesures au spectrocolorimètre des composantes L* (Luminance) et b* (couleur jaune/bleu) selon la formule :ITA 0 means Individual Typology Angle, calculated from spectrocolorimeter measurements of the L* (Luminance) and b* (yellow/blue color) components according to the formula:

est défini comme la différence entre l’ITA° mesuré à un temps donné sur la zone exposée à la lumière visible, et l’ITA° mesuré au même temps, sur la zone ayant reçu le même traitement, mais n’ayant pas été exposée à la lumière visible. is defined as the difference between the ITA° measured at a given time on the area exposed to visible light, and the ITA° measured at the same time, on the area having received the same treatment, but not having been exposed in visible light.

Cette méthode présente plusieurs désavantages.This method has several disadvantages.

Même si l’IP-VL donne une valeur de 1 pour une zone irradiée mais non traitée, et supérieures pour des zones irradiées mais traitées avec des produits efficaces, il ne permet pas de comparer l’efficacité de ces produits avec une zone non irradiée, ou une zone irradiée mais complètement protégée.Even if the IP-VL gives a value of 1 for an irradiated but untreated area, and higher for irradiated areas but treated with effective products, it does not allow the effectiveness of these products to be compared with an unirradiated area. , or an irradiated but completely shielded area.

Enfin, l’IP-VL ne définit pas non plus d’échelle logique, facilement compréhensible par les utilisateurs, qui permettraient de juger rapidement de l’efficacité d’un produit.Finally, the IP-VL does not define a logical scale, easily understood by users, which would allow a quick judgment of the effectiveness of a product.

Pour finir, cette méthode nécessite d’irradier le dos de 20 volontaires pendant 4 jours, et d’effectuer des mesures colorimétriques de leur dos pendant 5 jours. Cette méthode a donc des limites en termes de délai et de coût de réalisation qui n’est pas compatible avec la réalisation de screenings (de compositions ou d’ingrédients susceptibles de rentrer dans des compositions), ou d’évaluations rapides de nombreux candidats dans le but de présélectionner les plus prometteurs.Finally, this method requires irradiating the backs of 20 volunteers for 4 days, and performing colorimetric measurements of their backs for 5 days. This method therefore has limits in terms of time and cost of production, which is not compatible with the performance of screenings (of compositions or ingredients likely to be included in compositions), or rapid evaluations of numerous candidates in the aim of shortlisting the most promising.

BUTS ET PROBLEMES TECHNIQUES DE L’INVENTIONAIMS AND TECHNICAL PROBLEMS OF THE INVENTION

Un but principal de l’invention est de résoudre le problème technique consistant à fournir une méthode de mesure de la protection ou du taux de protection contre l’hyperpigmentation induite par la lumière visible, en particulier la lumière bleue, d’ingrédients actifs et de composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique.A main object of the invention is to solve the technical problem of providing a method for measuring the protection or the degree of protection against hyperpigmentation induced by visible light, in particular blue light, of active ingredients and cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition.

Un autre but principal de l’invention est de résoudre le problème technique consistant à fournir une méthode de sélection d’ingrédients actifs et de composition cosmétique, dermatologique ou pharmaceutique ayant des propriétés de filtration significative de la lumière visible en particulier de la lumière bleue, afin de permettre de réduire la formation de taches pigmentaires, et de permettre une comparaison aisée entre différents ingrédients actifs ou différentes compositions ainsi évaluées.Another main object of the invention is to solve the technical problem of providing a method for selecting active ingredients and cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical composition having significant filtering properties of visible light, in particular blue light, in order to make it possible to reduce the formation of pigment spots, and to allow an easy comparison between different active ingredients or different compositions thus evaluated.

Un autre but principal de l’invention est de résoudre le problème technique consistant à fournir une méthode de sélection d’ingrédients actifs et de composition cosmétique, dermatologique ou pharmaceutique ayant des propriétés de filtration significative de la lumière visible en particulier de la lumière bleue, que cette sélection soit réalisée in vivo ou in vitro.Another main object of the invention is to solve the technical problem of providing a method for selecting active ingredients and cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical composition having significant filtering properties of visible light, in particular blue light, whether this selection is carried out in vivo or in vitro.

Un autre but principal de l’invention est de résoudre le problème technique consistant à fournir une solution technique de détection et de sélection d’ingrédients actifs à utiliser topiquement ayant la capacité à filtrer la lumière visible, et en particulier la lumière bleue de façon significative.Another main object of the invention is to solve the technical problem of providing a technical solution for the detection and selection of active ingredients to be used topically having the ability to filter visible light, and in particular blue light significantly. .

Encore, un but principal de l’invention est de résoudre les problèmes techniques ci-dessus selon une solution technique simple, rapide et peu coûteuse, permettant d’améliorer significativement la capacité de filtration de la lumière visible, en particulier de la lumière bleue, des compositions topiques, utilisable à l’échelle industrielle.Again, a main object of the invention is to solve the technical problems above according to a simple, rapid and inexpensive technical solution, making it possible to significantly improve the capacity for filtering visible light, in particular blue light, topical compositions, usable on an industrial scale.

Claims (8)

Méthode d’évaluation du taux de protection d’un principe actif cosmétique ou d’une composition écobiologique, cosmétique ou dermatologique contenant ledit principe actif, contre la pigmentation induite par la lumière visible, en particulier par de la lumière bleue, caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend :
a) la formulation de la matière première, principe actif ou composition le contenant, dans une composition d’essai ayant une rhéologie compatible avec un étalement sur une surface plane d’essai in vitro ;
b) l’application de cette composition d’essai sur une première plaque d’essai, de composition adaptée à recevoir une irradiation avec un simulateur UV-visible et permettre la lecture de l’absorbance, sur une épaisseur adaptée à l’essai in vitro ;
c) l’application sur une seconde plaque d’essai in vitro de même composition que la première plaque d’essai appelée « Plaque Contrôle » pour la mesure du « bruit de fond » d’une quantité adaptée d’une composition de contrôle ayant une rhéologie compatible avec un étalement sur une surface plane d’essai in vitro, ladite composition ne contenant pas d’actif cosmétique absorbant la lumière visible et comprenant par exemple un alcool, un polyglycol, en particulier du glycérol.
d) le séchage des plaques pendant 15 minutes dans l’obscurité et à température ambiante ;
e) l’irradiation éventuelle des plaques à 600W/m² avec un simulateur UV-visible ;
f) la lecture de l’absorbance à la longueur d’onde i notée « Abi » des plaques entre 400 et 700 nm après insertion dans un spectrophotomètre UV-Visible ;
g) la lecture de l’absorbance « bruit de fond » notée Ci de la Plaque Contrôle décrite en c) entre 400 et 700 nm
h) Pour chaque longueur d’onde notée « i », l’absorbance nette notée Ai est le résultat de « Ai = Abi-Ci »
i) On calcule le facteur de Protection de la Lumière Bleue, noté BLP, en appliquant l’une quelconque des méthodes suivantes :
I. Pour i de 418 à 420 nm, on calcule le Facteur de Protection de la Lumière Bleue en appliquant la formule BLP = ; avec 0.12 ‹ ‹ 0.39, avantageusement = 0,25847 ; ou
II. Pour i de 400 à 468 nm, on calcule le Facteur de Protection de la Lumière Bleue en appliquant la formule BLP = ; avec 0.005 ‹ ‹ 0.018, avantageusement = 0, 01168 ; ou
III. Pour i à 420 nm, on calcule le Facteur de Protection de la Lumière Bleue en appliquant la formule BLP = ; avec 0.39 ‹ ‹ 1.16, avantageusement = 0, 77663.Method for evaluating the degree of protection of a cosmetic active principle or of an ecobiological, cosmetic or dermatological composition containing the said active principle, against pigmentation induced by visible light, in particular by blue light, characterized in that 'she understands :
a) the formulation of the raw material, active ingredient or composition containing it, in a test composition having a rheology compatible with spreading on a flat test surface in vitro;
b) the application of this test composition on a first test plate, of composition adapted to receive irradiation with a UV-visible simulator and to allow the reading of the absorbance, on a thickness adapted to the test in vitro;
c) the application on a second in vitro test plate of the same composition as the first test plate called "Control Plate" for the measurement of the "background noise" of a suitable quantity of a control composition having a rheology compatible with spreading on a flat in vitro test surface, said composition not containing any cosmetic active agent which absorbs visible light and comprising, for example, an alcohol, a polyglycol, in particular glycerol.
d) drying the plates for 15 minutes in the dark and at room temperature;
e) the possible irradiation of the plates at 600W/m² with a UV-visible simulator;
f) reading the absorbance at wavelength i denoted “Abi” of the plates between 400 and 700 nm after insertion in a UV-Vis spectrophotometer;
g) the reading of the "background noise" absorbance denoted Ci of the Control Plate described in c) between 400 and 700 nm
h) For each wavelength noted "i", the net absorbance noted Ai is the result of "Ai = Abi-Ci"
i) The Blue Light Protection factor, denoted BLP, is calculated by applying any one of the following methods:
I. For i from 418 to 420 nm, the Blue Light Protection Factor is calculated by applying the formula BLP = ; with 0.12 ‹ ‹ 0.39, advantageously = 0.25847; Or
II. For i from 400 to 468 nm, the Blue Light Protection Factor is calculated by applying the formula BLP = ; with 0.005 ‹ ‹ 0.018, advantageously = 0.01168; Or
III. For i at 420 nm, the Blue Light Protection Factor is calculated by applying the formula BLP = ; with 0.39 ‹ ‹ 1.16, advantageously = 0.77663. Méthode d’ajustement du taux de protection d’un principe actif cosmétique, ou d’une composition écobiologique, cosmétique ou dermatologique le contenant dont la valeur mesurée selon la revendication 1 est inférieure à 50%, consistant à changer un principe actif cosmétique, modifier sa concentration ou modifier la composition le contenant jusqu’à atteindre un taux de protection de 50% au moins, mesuré selon la revendication 1.Method for adjusting the level of protection of a cosmetic active principle, or of an ecobiological, cosmetic or dermatological composition containing it, the measured value of which according to claim 1 is less than 50%, consisting in changing a cosmetic active principle, modifying its concentration or modify the composition containing it until a degree of protection of at least 50%, measured according to claim 1, is reached. Méthode d’ajustement du taux de protection d’un principe actif cosmétique, ou d’une composition écobiologique, cosmétique ou dermatologique le contenant dont la valeur mesurée selon la revendication 1 est inférieure à 50%, consistant à changer un principe actif cosmétique, modifier sa concentration ou modifier la composition le contenant jusqu’à atteindre un taux de protection de 60%, avantageusement de 70% au moins, mesuré selon la revendication 1.Method for adjusting the level of protection of a cosmetic active principle, or of an ecobiological, cosmetic or dermatological composition containing it, the measured value of which according to claim 1 is less than 50%, consisting in changing a cosmetic active principle, modifying its concentration or modify the composition containing it until a degree of protection of 60%, advantageously of at least 70%, measured according to claim 1 is reached. Méthode de sélection d’un principe actif cosmétique ou d’une composition écobiologique cosmétique ou dermatologique le contenant, comprenant les étapes suivantes :
- détermination du taux de protection du principe actif cosmétique ou de la composition le contenant selon la méthode objet de la revendication 1,
- sélection du principe actif cosmétique ou de la composition le contenant présentant un taux de protection BLP d’au moins 50 %, en particulier d’au moins 60 % et encore mieux d’au moins 70 %, notée respectivement BLP 50 ou BLP 50+, BLP 60 ou BLP 60+, BLP 70 ou BLP 70+.Method for selecting a cosmetic active ingredient or a cosmetic or dermatological ecobiological composition containing it, comprising the following steps:
- determination of the degree of protection of the cosmetic active ingredient or of the composition containing it according to the method of claim 1,
- selection of the cosmetic active principle or of the composition containing it having a BLP protection rate of at least 50%, in particular of at least 60% and even better of at least 70%, denoted respectively BLP 50 or BLP 50 +, BLP 60 or BLP 60+, BLP 70 or BLP 70+. Méthode selon l’une des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisée en ce que le principe actif cosmétique est choisi parmi le Titanium Dioxide, les Iron Oxide, le Magnesium Oxide, le Manganese Oxide, le Manganese Dioxide, le Calcium Oxide, le Chromium Oxide, le Calcium Cerium Oxide, le Cerium Oxide, le Clay Mineral Oxide, le Zinc Cerium Oxide, le Barium/Calcium/Silicon/Titanium Oxide, le Zirconium Dioxide, le Cupric Oxide, le Cuprous Oxide, le Tin Oxide, le Tungsten Oxide, ou le Germanium Dioxide.Method according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the cosmetic active principle is chosen from Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxide, Magnesium Oxide, Manganese Oxide, Manganese Dioxide, Calcium Oxide, Chromium Oxide, Calcium Cerium Oxide, Cerium Oxide, Clay Mineral Oxide, Zinc Cerium Oxide, Barium/Calcium/Silicon/Titanium Oxide, Zirconium Dioxide, Cupric Oxide, Cuprous Oxide, Tin Oxide, Tungsten Oxide, or Germanium Dioxide. Principe actif cosmétique ou composition écobiologique cosmétique ou dermatologique le contenant, protégeant contre la pigmentation induite par la lumière visible en particulier lumière bleue, caractérisé en ce qu’il possède un BLP mesuré par la méthode d’évaluation ou de sélection selon la revendication 1, supérieur à 50%, en particulier supérieur à 60%, encore mieux supérieur à 70%, et composition notée respectivement BLP 50 ou BLP 50+, BLP 60 ou BLP 60+, BLP 70 ou BLP 70+, le principe actif étant choisi parmi le Titanium Dioxide, les Iron Oxide, le Magnesium Oxide, le Manganese Oxide, le Manganese Dioxide, le Calcium Oxide, le Chromium Oxide, le Calcium Cerium Oxide, le Cerium Oxide, le Clay Mineral Oxide, le Zinc Cerium Oxide, le Barium/Calcium/Silicon/Titanium Oxide, le Zirconium Dioxide, le Cupric Oxide, le Cuprous Oxide, le Tin Oxide, le Tungsten Oxide, ou le Germanium Dioxide.Cosmetic active principle or cosmetic or dermatological ecobiological composition containing it, protecting against pigmentation induced by visible light, in particular blue light, characterized in that it has a BLP measured by the evaluation or selection method according to claim 1, greater than 50%, in particular greater than 60%, even better greater than 70%, and composition noted respectively BLP 50 or BLP 50+, BLP 60 or BLP 60+, BLP 70 or BLP 70+, the active ingredient being chosen from Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxide, Magnesium Oxide, Manganese Oxide, Manganese Dioxide, Calcium Oxide, Chromium Oxide, Calcium Cerium Oxide, Cerium Oxide, Clay Mineral Oxide, Zinc Cerium Oxide, Barium/ Calcium/Silicon/Titanium Oxide, Zirconium Dioxide, Cupric Oxide, Cuprous Oxide, Tin Oxide, Tungsten Oxide, or Germanium Dioxide. Principe actif cosmétique ou composition écobiologique cosmétique ou dermatologique le contenant pour utilisation comme agent protecteur de la peau vis-à-vis de la lumière visible, en particulier de la lumière bleue, ledit principe actif cosmétique ou la composition le contenant présentant un taux de protection vis-à-vis de la lumière visible, en particulier de la lumière bleue déterminé selon la méthode objet de la revendication 1 au moins égal à 50 %, en particulier au moins égal à 60 %, avantageusement au moins égal à 70 %, ces compositions étant respectivement notées BLP 50 ou BLP 50+, BLP 60 ou BLP 60+, BLP 70 ou BLP 70+, le principe actif étant choisi parmi le Titanium Dioxide, les Iron Oxide, le Magnesium Oxide, le Manganese Oxide, le Manganese Dioxide, le Calcium Oxide, le Chromium Oxide, le Calcium Cerium Oxide, le Cerium Oxide, le Clay Mineral Oxide, le Zinc Cerium Oxide, le Barium/Calcium/Silicon/Titanium Oxide, le Zirconium Dioxide, le Cupric Oxide, le Cuprous Oxide, le Tin Oxide, le Tungsten Oxide, ou le Germanium Dioxide.Cosmetic active principle or cosmetic or dermatological ecobiological composition containing it for use as a protective agent for the skin against visible light, in particular blue light, said cosmetic active principle or the composition containing it having a protection rate vis-à-vis visible light, in particular blue light determined according to the method of claim 1 at least equal to 50%, in particular at least equal to 60%, advantageously at least equal to 70%, these compositions being respectively denoted BLP 50 or BLP 50+, BLP 60 or BLP 60+, BLP 70 or BLP 70+, the active principle being chosen from Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxide, Magnesium Oxide, Manganese Oxide, Manganese Dioxide , Calcium Oxide, Chromium Oxide, Calcium Cerium Oxide, Cerium Oxide, Clay Mineral Oxide, Zinc Cerium Oxide, Barium/Calcium/Silicon/Titanium Oxide, Zirconium Dioxide, Cupric Oxide, Cuprous Oxide, Tin Oxide, Tungsten Oxide, or Germanium Dioxide. Principe actif cosmétique, ou composition écobiologique cosmétique ou dermatologique le contenant, défini à la revendication 6, pour utilisation sur au moins une zone de la peau d’une personne présentant un risque de pigmentation ou d’hyperpigmentation sous l’effet d’une exposition à la lumière visible cette zone de la peau étant en particulier choisi parmi une zone de la peau saine, une zone de la peau cicatricielle, une zone de la peau ayant perdu son intégrité par exemple en raison de l’acné, une atopie, un eczéma.Cosmetic active ingredient, or cosmetic or dermatological ecobiological composition containing it, defined in claim 6, for use on at least one area of the skin of a person presenting a risk of pigmentation or hyperpigmentation under the effect of exposure in visible light, this area of the skin being chosen in particular from an area of healthy skin, an area of scarred skin, an area of skin having lost its integrity for example due to acne, an atopy, an eczema.
FR2110966A 2021-10-15 2021-10-15 METHOD FOR ASSESSING THE RATE OF PROTECTION OF AN ACTIVE INGREDIENT AND ACTIVE INGREDIENT HAVING THE RATE OF PROTECTION THUS EVALUATED AGAINST PIGMENTATION INDUCED BY VISIBLE LIGHT Pending FR3128230A1 (en)

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PCT/FR2022/051923 WO2023062318A1 (en) 2021-10-15 2022-10-13 Methods for measuring the effect of protection from hyperpigmentation caused by visible light, selecting cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions using these methods and ecobiological compositions thus selected

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