FR3127128A1 - Compositions and methods for keratinous fibers - Google Patents

Abstract

Compositions and Methods for Keratinous Fibers The disclosure relates to compositions for keratinous fibers, which have a unique transformable nature that allows the composition to change from a gel to a foam when shear stress is applied to the gel. The disclosure also relates to packaging systems comprising the compositions, and methods of using the compositions. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Compositions and methods for keratinous fibers

The present disclosure relates to compositions for the care, styling and/or conditioning of hair, packaging systems comprising the compositions, and methods of using the compositions.

CONTEXT

Conventional hair styling compositions typically come in the form of lotions, gels, mousses, creams, sprays, serums, waxes, oils, clays, and the like. It is understood that different forms of compositions may provide different benefits, but may also present different disadvantages and/or challenges, such as, for example, when the particular composition is applied to the hair.

For example, hair gels are a common form of styling compositions for curly hair because they are generally effective in defining curls and combating frizz. However, hair gels tend to be thick or contain heavy oils. Thick gels can be too heavy for fine hair and can weigh down curls in curly hair. Additionally, gels can be difficult to apply evenly throughout the hair, and can leave the hair feeling "crunchy".

Foaming compositions, such as mousses, are another form of hair composition. There are two types of hair styling compositions in mousse form, the aerosol type and the non-aerosol type. Aerosol-type compositions typically require a propellant and the compositions are usually filled into a pressure-resistant container and dispensed through the container's nozzle as a foam. The non-aerosol type hair composition does not use a propellant gas, but the composition is typically filled into a foaming container and produces foam when shear stress is applied, for example by a pump. Existing non-aerosol hair styling compositions convert a liquid composition into a mousse.

There is therefore a need for hair styling compositions which can be easily applied to the hair, which provide good curl definition, which provide long-lasting hold, hair manageability and good cosmetic properties, and/or which are environmentally friendly. Ideally, new dosage forms of compositions are desired.

It has now surprisingly been discovered that the compositions according to the disclosure have a unique transformable nature in which the composition is provided in the form of a gel which can transform into a foam under the application of shear stress. These mousse compositions can be easy to apply, provide good curl definition and/or hold, and/or can impart various beneficial sensory properties to the hair.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated herein and form part of this specification, illustrate exemplary embodiments of the disclosure and, together with the general description given above and the description provided herein, are used to explain the specifics of the disclosure.

There is a graph illustrating the rheological properties of a typical gel.

There is a graph illustrating the viscosity properties of a transformable gel.

There is an image illustrating an exemplary texture transformation of a gel-to-foam composition under shear stress.

There is a graph showing the duration of various benefits after hair has been treated with a composition according to the disclosure.

It is understood that the preceding and following descriptions are exemplary and explanatory only, and are not intended to be restrictive of any subject matter claimed.

SUMMARY

The disclosure relates to compositions for the care, styling and/or shaping of keratinous fibres, for example human hair, which have a unique transformable nature such that the compositions can transform from a gel to a mousse. The compositions disclosed herein may, in various embodiments, impart certain cosmetic properties to the hair, such as one or more of styling/shaping, curl definition, frizz control, manageability, hydration, softness, shine and/or conditioning. The disclosure also relates to packaging systems comprising the compositions, and methods of using the compositions.

In various embodiments, the disclosure relates to gel or foam compositions comprising (a) at least one nonionic guar polymer; (b) at least one polysaccharide other than the at least one nonionic guar polymer; (c) at least one nonionic film-forming polymer; (d) at least one cationic film-forming polymer; (e) at least one anionic surfactant; and (f) at least one polyol. In various embodiments, the weight ratio of the at least one polysaccharide other than the nonionic guar polymer to the at least one nonionic guar polymer ranges from about 1:0.01 to about 1:1, for example about 1:0.1 to about 1:0.5, such as about 1:0.1, about 1:0.15, about 1:0.2, about 1:0.25, or about 1:0, 3.

In various embodiments, the at least one nonionic guar polymer comprises a hydroxyalkyl modified nonionic guar polymer, for example, hydroxypropyl guar. In certain embodiments, the at least one nonionic guar polymer is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 2%, for example from about 0.1% to about 1%, or about 0.2% to about 0.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In additional embodiments, the at least one polysaccharide other than the at least one nonionic guar polymer is selected from gums, celluloses, starches or mixtures thereof, for example xanthan gum. In some embodiments, the at least one polysaccharide other than the at least one nonionic guar polymer is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5%, such as about 0.1% to about 4%, or about 0.6% to about 1.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, the at least one nonionic film-forming polymer is selected from vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers, polyalkyloxazolines, vinyl acetate homopolymers, vinyl acetate and ester copolymers acrylic, copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene, copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic ester, copolymers of polyethylene and maleic anhydride, homopolymers of alkyl acrylate and homopolymers of alkyl methacrylate, copolymers of acrylonitrile and a nonionic monomer, or mixtures thereof, for example the copolymer of VP/methacrylamide/vinylimidazole. In certain embodiments, the at least one nonionic film-forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5%, for example from about 0.1% to about 3%, or from about 0.4% to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In additional embodiments, the at least one cationic film-forming polymer is chosen from quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, fatty chain polymers containing a vinylpyrrolidone unit, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, cationic guar gum derivatives, quaternized copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, chitosans or salts thereof, cationic cellulose derivatives or mixtures thereof, for example quaternized vinylpyrrolidone copolymers quaternized or non-quaternized and dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate, for example VP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, fatty chain polymers containing a vinylpyrrolidone unit, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, derivatives cationic guar gum, quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, chitosan or salts thereof, cationic cellulose derivatives, or mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one cationic film-forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5%, such as about 0.1% to about 3%, or about 0.2% to approximately 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, the at least one anionic surfactant is chosen from non-sulfated anionic surfactants including alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl isethionates, alkoxylated monoacids, acylated amino acids, glycinates of acyl, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof, for example a C 10 -C ₂₄ olefin sulfonate such as C ₁₀ -C 24 olefin sulfonate _14-16 sodium. In some embodiments, the at least one anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 6%, such as about 0.1% to about 3%, or about 0.5% to approximately 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, the at least one polyol is selected from one or more alkane polyols, for example glycerin, caprylyl glycol, or a mixture thereof. In certain embodiments, the at least one polyol is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, for example from about 1% to about 7%, or from about 3% to about 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Optionally, the compositions can also comprise at least one alkyl polyglucoside, such as, for example, decylglucoside. If present, the alkyl polyglucoside may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 8%, such as about 0.5% to about 5%, or about 0.75% to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions may optionally include additional components, such as, for example, one or more solvents (eg, water and/or non-aqueous solvents), one or more conditioning agents (eg, oils, such as castor oil, and/or plant extracts), one or more active agents (for example, acids, such as citric acid and/or maleic acid), one or more vitamins (for example, panthenol and/or tocopherol) , and/or one or more preservatives.

In additional embodiments, the disclosure relates to gel or foam compositions comprising (a) from about 0.01% to about 1% by weight of at least one nonionic hydroxyalkyl-modified guar polymer; (b) from about 0.01% to about 3% by weight of at least one polysaccharide other than the at least one nonionic guar polymer, selected from gums, celluloses, starches or mixtures thereof; (c) from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of at least one nonionic film-forming polymer; (d) from about 0.1% to about 4% by weight of at least one catonic film-forming polymer; (e) from about 0.01% to about 3% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from non-sulfated anionic surfactants comprising alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl isethionates , alkoxylated monoacids, acyl amino acids, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, salts thereof or mixtures thereof; and (f) from about 2% to about 6% by weight of at least one polyol selected from alkane polyols. Optionally, the compositions may further comprise (g) from about 0.01% to about 1% of at least one vitamin; and (h) from about 0.5% to about 5% of at least one alkyl glucoside. The compositions may further comprise at least one solvent and/or at least one conditioning agent. In various embodiments, the weight ratio of the at least one polysaccharide other than the nonionic guar polymer to the at least one nonionic guar polymer ranges from about 1:0.01 to about 1:1, for example about 1:0.1 to about 1:0.5, such as about 1:0.1, about 1:0.15, about 1:0.2, about 1:0.25 or about 1:0.3 .

In still further embodiments, the disclosure relates to gel or foam compositions comprising (a) from about 0.2% to about 0.4% by weight of at least one nonionic guar polymer modified with a hydroxyalkyl; (b) from about 0.6% to about 1.2% by weight of at least one polysaccharide other than the at least one nonionic guar polymer, selected from gums, celluloses, starches or mixtures thereof ; (c) from about 0.4% to about 1% by weight of at least one nonionic film-forming polymer; (d) from about 0.2% to about 1% by weight of at least one cationic film-forming polymer; (e) from about 0.5% to about 1.5% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from non-sulfated anionic surfactants comprising alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, isethionates of acyl, alkoxylated monoacids, acylated amino acids, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof; (f) from about 1% to about 7% by weight of at least one polyol selected from alkane polyols; (g) from about 0.2% to about 0.5% of at least one vitamin; and (h) from about 0.75% to about 3% of at least one alkyl glucoside. The compositions can also comprise at least one solvent and/or at least one conditioning agent. In various embodiments, the weight ratio of the at least one polysaccharide other than the nonionic guar polymer to the at least one nonionic guar polymer ranges from about 1:0.01 to about 1:1, for example about 1:0.1 to about 1:0.5, such as about 1:0.1, about 1:0.15, about 1:0.2, about 1:0.25 or about 1:0.3 .

In still further embodiments, the disclosure relates to gel or foam compositions comprising (a) from about 0.2% to about 0.4% by weight of at least one nonionic guar polymer modified with a hydroxyalkyl; (b) from about 0.6% to about 1.2% by weight of at least one polysaccharide other than the at least one nonionic guar polymer selected from gums, celluloses, starches or mixtures thereof; (c) from about 0.4% to about 1% by weight of at least one nonionic film-forming polymer chosen from vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers, polyalkyloxazolines, vinyl acetate homopolymers, copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene, copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic ester, copolymers of polyethylene and maleic anhydride, homopolymers of acrylate alkyl and alkyl methacrylate homopolymers, copolymers of acrylonitrile and a nonionic monomer, or mixtures thereof; (d) from approximately 0.2% to approximately 1% by weight of at least one cationic film-forming polymer chosen from quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, fatty chain polymers containing a vinylpyrrolidone unit, terpolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, cationic guar gum derivatives, quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, chitosans or salts thereof, cationic cellulose derivatives or mixtures thereof , for example quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, for example VP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, fatty chain polymers containing a vinylpyrrolidone unit, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers quaternized dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, cationic derivatives of guar gum, quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, chitosans or salts thereof, cationic cellulose derivatives, or mixtures thereof; (e) from about 0.5% to about 1.5% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from non-sulfated anionic surfactants comprising alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, isethionates of acyl, alkoxylated monoacids, acylated amino acids, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof; (f) from about 1% to about 7% by weight of at least one polyol selected from alkane polyols; (g) optionally, from about 0.2% to about 0.5% of at least one vitamin; and (h) optionally, from about 0.75% to about 3% of at least one alkyl glucoside. The compositions can also comprise at least one solvent and/or at least one conditioning agent. In various embodiments, the weight ratio of the at least one polysaccharide other than the nonionic guar polymer to the at least one nonionic guar polymer ranges from about 1:0.01 to about 1:1, for example about 1:0.1 to about 1:0.5, such as about 1:0.1, about 1:0.15, about 1:0.2, about 1:0.25 or about 1:0.3 .

In further embodiments, the disclosure relates to packaging systems comprising a dispensing container containing a gel composition according to the disclosure. Packaging systems and/or dispensing containers can be configured to apply shear stress to the gel, in order to convert the gel into a foam.

In further embodiments, the disclosure relates to methods of caring for, styling and/or shaping hair, the methods comprising (i) applying shear stress to a gel composition according to the disclosure , wherein after applying shear stress to the gel composition, the composition is in the form of a foam; and (ii) applying the mousse to the hair. In some embodiments, the methods include a step of heating the hair before, during, or after applying the mousse composition to the hair, although the methods according to other embodiments do not include or require no use of heat before, during or after application of the mousse composition to the hair.

Claims (10)

Gel composition comprising:
(a) at least one nonionic guar polymer;
(b) at least one polysaccharide other than the at least one nonionic guar polymer;
(c) at least one nonionic film-forming polymer;
(d) at least one cationic film-forming polymer;
(e) at least one anionic surfactant; And
(f) at least one polyol;
wherein the weight ratio of the at least one polysaccharide other than the nonionic guar polymer to the at least one nonionic guar polymer is from about 1:0.01 to about 1:1; And
wherein the gel composition has a transformable texture which can be transformed into a foam when shear stress is applied. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one nonionic guar polymer comprises a nonionic hydroxyalkyl modified guar polymer and the at least one polysaccharide other than the at least one nonionic guar polymer is selected from gums, celluloses, starches, or mixtures thereof and is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to Claim 1 or Claim 2, in which the at least one nonionic film-forming polymer is chosen from vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers, polyalkyloxazolines, vinyl acetate homopolymers, vinyl acetate copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene, copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic ester, copolymers of polyethylene and maleic anhydride, homopolymers of alkyl acrylate and homopolymers of alkyl methacrylate, copolymers of acrylonitrile and a nonionic monomer, or a mixture thereof, and is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight, based on weight composition total. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the at least one cationic film-forming polymer is chosen from quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, fatty chain polymers containing a vinylpyrrolidone unit, terpolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/ vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, cationic guar gum derivatives, quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, chitosans or salts thereof, cationic cellulose derivatives, or mixtures thereof, and is present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.01% to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and the at least one anionic surfactant is chosen from non-sulfated anionic surfactants comprising alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl isethionates, alkoxylated monoacids, acyl amino acids, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof, and are present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 6% by weight, based on weight composition total. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the at least one polyol comprises at least one alkane polyol, present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one alkyl polyglucoside. A gel composition according to claim 1, comprising:
(a) from about 0.01% to about 1% by weight of at least one nonionic hydroxyalkyl modified guar polymer;
(b) from about 0.01% to about 3% by weight of at least one polysaccharide other than the at least one nonionic guar polymer selected from gums, celluloses, starches, or mixtures thereof;
(c) from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of at least one nonionic film-forming polymer;
(d) from about 0.1% to about 4% by weight of at least one cationic film-forming polymer;
(e) from about 0.01% to about 3% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from non-sulfated anionic surfactants comprising alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl isethionates , alkoxylated monoacids, acylated amino acids, acyl glycinates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof; And
(f) from about 2% to about 6% by weight of at least one polyol selected from alkane polyols;
wherein the weight ratio of the at least one polysaccharide other than the nonionic guar polymer to the at least one nonionic guar polymer is from about 1:0.01 to about 1:1; And
wherein the gel composition has a transformable texture that can be transformed into a foam when shear stress is applied. A packaging system comprising a dispensing container containing a gel composition comprising:
(a) at least one nonionic guar polymer;
(b) at least one polysaccharide other than the at least one nonionic guar polymer;
(c) at least one nonionic film-forming polymer;
(d) at least one cationic film-forming polymer;
(e) at least one anionic surfactant; And
(f) at least one polyol;
wherein the weight ratio of the at least one polysaccharide other than the nonionic guar polymer to the at least one nonionic guar polymer is from about 1:0.01 to about 1:1; And
wherein the gel composition has a transformable texture that can be transformed into a foam when shear stress is applied; And
wherein the dispensing container includes a non-aerosol dispensing device configured to provide shear stress to the gel composition sufficient to transform the shape of the gel composition into a foam. A process for caring for, styling and/or shaping the hair, the process comprising:
(i) applying shear stress to a gel composition comprising:
(a) at least one nonionic guar polymer;
(b) at least one polysaccharide other than the at least one nonionic guar polymer;
(c) at least one nonionic film-forming polymer;
(d) at least one cationic film-forming polymer;
(e) at least one anionic surfactant; And
(f) at least one polyol;
wherein the weight ratio of the at least one polysaccharide other than the nonionic guar polymer to the at least one nonionic guar polymer is from about 1:0.01 to about 1:1; And
wherein the gel composition has a transformable texture that can be transformed into a foam when shear stress is applied; And
(ii) applying the mousse to the hair. A method according to claim 9, wherein:
- the at least one nonionic guar polymer comprises a nonionic guar polymer modified with a hydroxyalkyl, and is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition ;
- the at least one polysaccharide other than the at least one nonionic guar polymer is chosen from gums, celluloses, starches, or mixtures thereof, and is present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.01% to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; And
- the at least one polyol comprises at least one alkane polyol, and is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; And
- optionally, the composition further comprises at least one alkyl polyglucoside.