FR3117352A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING 4-HYDROXYACETOPHENONE - Google Patents

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING 4-HYDROXYACETOPHENONE Cosmetic composition including an aqueous phase, the aqueous phase comprising 4-hydroxyacetophenone solubilized with niacinamide, in which the weight ratio between niacinamide and 4-hydroxyacetophenone in the aqueous phase is greater than 3.0. Figure for abstract: NIL

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING 4-HYDROXYACETOPHENONE

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions including an aqueous phase comprising solubilized 4-hydroxyacetophenone.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

It is known to incorporate chemical preservatives into cosmetic or dermatological compositions. These preservatives are intended to combat the growth of microorganisms in these compositions, which would quickly render them unsuitable for use. It is in particular necessary to protect the compositions against the microorganisms likely to develop inside the composition, for example during its production, but also against those which the user could introduce there during its handling, in particular when he uses products in jars with his fingers.

A suitable chemical preservative which has been incorporated into some cosmetic products is 4-hydroxyacetophenone. However, 4-hydroxyacetophenone has limited solubility in water and typically requires heating to temperatures greater than or equal to 60°C in order to solubilize 4-hydroxyacetophenone in aqueous systems. Heating to ensure solubilization of 4-hydroxyacetophenone is an expensive and energy-consuming process. In addition, certain ingredients and materials associated with cosmetic or dermatological compositions are adversely affected by exposure to these high temperatures. Therefore, there is a need for cosmetic compositions having a stable aqueous phase including 4-hydroxyacetophenone which have not been exposed to increased temperatures.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The summary is provided to introduce a selection of concepts in a simplified form which are further described below in the Detailed Description of the Invention. This summary is not intended to identify key features of the claimed subject matter, nor to assist in determining the scope of the claimed subject matter.

According to various embodiments, there is provided a cosmetic composition including an aqueous phase comprising 4-hydroxyacetophenone solubilized with niacinamide is formed by the steps of essentially providing an aqueous composition and combining 4-hydroxyacetophenone and niacinamide.

In one embodiment, the aqueous phase includes 4-hydroxyacetophenone in an amount between about 0.2% and 1%, by weight, based on the weight of the aqueous phase, and niacinamide in an amount between about 1 % and about 5%, by weight, based on the weight of the aqueous phase. The weight ratio between niacinamide and 4-hydroxyacetophenone in the aqueous phase is greater than 3.0.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition is formed by providing the aqueous phase comprising 4-hydroxyacetophenone solubilized with niacinamide and adding components selected from the group consisting of water, humectants, preservatives, emollients, surfactants, emulsifiers, active compounds and combinations thereof.

In another embodiment, there is provided a cosmetic composition including an aqueous phase, the aqueous phase comprising 4-hydroxyacetophenone solubilized with niacinamide, wherein the weight ratio between niacinamide and 4-hydroxyacetophenone in the aqueous phase is greater than 3.0.

In another embodiment, there is provided a make-up remover and cleansing article comprising a water-insoluble substrate impregnated with a 4-hydroxyacetophenone solubilized with niacinamide.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will emerge from the more detailed description which follows, by way of example, of the principles of the invention.

This disclosure describes particular embodiments in accordance with the general inventive concepts and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way. Indeed, the invention as described in the specification is broader than and not imitated by the particular embodiments set forth therein, and the terms used herein have their full ordinary meaning.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

By “article”, we mean here the combination composed of a support insoluble in water and of a composition impregnated on the support. This article can in particular be a wipe but it can also have any form, including those described below. The water-insoluble carrier is absorbent and strong enough not to disintegrate during use. The use of the article as defined above is for taking care of the skin or hair and/or for cleaning and/or removing make-up and/or rubbing the skin.

"Keratinous substrate" and "keratinous tissue" each include, but are not limited to, skin, hair, and nails.

“Cosmetically acceptable” means a support compatible with any keratinous substrate.

The solubilized 4-hydroxyacetophenone forms an aqueous phase intended to be used in a cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition can be any suitable cosmetic composition such as skin care products, such as, but not limited to, makeup removers, cleansers, micellar water, water-in-oil or oil-in-oil emulsion. in-water, multiphase compositions comprising at least one aqueous phase .

In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition is formed by providing the aqueous phase comprising the solubilized 4-hydroxyacetophenone with niacinamide and adding components selected from the group consisting of water, humectants, preservatives, emollients, surfactants, emulsifiers, active compounds and combinations thereof.

The cosmetic composition comprising the aqueous phase including 4-hydroxyacetophenone solubilized with niacinamide is formed by the steps of essentially providing an aqueous composition and combining 4-hydroxyacetophenone and niacinamide. In one embodiment, the aqueous phase includes 4-hydroxyacetophenone in an amount between about 0.2% and about 1.0% by weight, based on the weight of the aqueous phase, and niacinamide in an amount between about 1% and about 5% by weight, based on the weight of the aqueous phase. The weight ratio between niacinamide and 4-hydroxyacetophenone in the aqueous phase is greater than 3.0.

4-Hydroxyacetophenone

The composition, according to the present invention, includes 4-hydroxyacetophenone. As used herein, the term "4-hydroxyacetophenone" includes 4-hydroxyacetophenone and its derivatives.

(4-hydroxyacetophenone)

By derivatives of 4-hydroxyacetophenone, it is meant that the 4-hydroxyacetophenone includes cosmetically acceptable salts or derivatives. In particular, the sodium, potassium and ammonium salts of 4-hydroxyacetophenone compounds. In some cases, the use of the respective ionic compound or solvate carrier proves superior to the unmodified derivative.

The 4-hydroxyacetophenone present in the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is present in an amount of at least 0.02% by weight, or at least approximately 0.05% by weight, or at at least about 0.1% by weight, or at least about 0.15% by weight, or at least about 0.20% by weight, or at least about 0.25% by weight, or d at least about 0.30% by weight, or at least about 0.35% by weight, or from about 0.02% to about 1.0%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.9%, or from about 0.2% to 0.8%, or from about 0.3% to about 0.7%, or from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, about 0.5% or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. However, one of ordinary skill in this field will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

Thus, 4-hydroxyacetophenone is present in an amount by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, ranging from approximately 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07 , 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, or 0.90, to about 1.0 percent by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges.

Niacinamide

The composition, according to the present invention, includes niacinamide. As used herein, the term "niacinamide" includes niacinamide and its derivatives. Niacinamide is vitamin B3 or PP (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof. This material is also known as nicotinic acid amide and vitamin B3. Suitable niacinamide compounds or derivatives thereof are selected from known nicotinic acid (or niacin), nicotinamide riboside, niacinamide ascorbate and salts thereof, and/or a combination thereof.

The niacinamide present in the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is present in an amount of at least 1.0% by weight, or at least approximately 1.2% by weight, or at least approximately 1.4% by weight, or at least about 1.6% by weight, or at least about 1.8% by weight, or at least about 2.0% by weight, or at at least about 2.2% by weight, or at least about 2.5% by weight, or from about 1.0% to about 5.0%, or from about 1.5% to about 4.5%, or about 2.0% to 4.0%, or about 2.5% to about 3.5%, or about 1.5% or about 2.0% to about 3.0 %, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cleaning composition. However, one of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

Thus, the niacinamide is present in an amount by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, ranging from about 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0, 2 ,2, 2,4. 2.6, 2.8, 3.0, 3.2, 3.4, 3.6, 3.8, 4.0, 4.2, 4.4, 4.6 or 4.8, at approximately 5.0 percent by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges.

In one embodiment, the niacinamide is present in a weight ratio to 4-hydroxyacetophenone greater than 3.0. Thus, the ratio of niacinamide, on a weight basis, is at least 3.0, or at least about 3.2, or at least about 3.4, or at least about 3.6 , or at least about 3.8, or at least about 4.0, or at least about 4.2, or at least about 4.6, or at least about 4.8 , or at least about 5.0, or about 3.0 to about 5.0, or about 3.0 to about 4.0, or about 3.2 to about 3.8, or d about 3.4 to about 3.6 or about 3.0 or about 3.5 or about 4.0, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment of the present invention, niacinamide and 4-hydroxyacetophenone are combined to form a solubilized 4-hydroxyacetophenone. By solubilized 4-hydroxyacetophenone, as used in the present invention, it is meant that the composition including 4-hydroxyacetophenone is a stable composition in which the 4-hydroxyacetophenone has been solvated such that a zero or minimal amount of solid is present in the composition. The stability of the composition is such that exposure to low temperature storage, for example at 4°C in a controlled room for one week, results in little or no visible precipitation of solid 4-hydroxyacetophenone from solution. .

In one embodiment, a cosmetic composition is formed. The cosmetic composition is formed by providing the aqueous phase having 4-hydroxyacetophenone solubilized with niacinamide. Components are added to the aqueous phase of 4-hydroxyacetophenone solubilized with niacinamide and are mixed to form the cosmetic composition. Suitable components which may be added may be selected from the group consisting of water, humectants, preservatives, emollients, surfactants, emulsifiers, active compounds and combinations thereof.

In addition to cosmetic compositions, embodiments of the present invention include articles using the cosmetic compositions of the present invention. In some embodiments, the article may be formed from synthetic materials, such as PET (polyethylene terephthalate, or polyester) and PP (polypropylene), which may be used alone or in combination with a natural material. And in some embodiments, the article may be formed from durable, biodegradable substrates from sources such as (1) nonwovens made from naturally occurring fibers, such as pulp, viscose, Lyocell , cellulose acetate, cotton, (2) nonwovens made from natural fibers, such as hemp, flax, seaweed, ramie, banana, pineapple, and (3) non- woven from regenerated or recycled fibres, such as cotton.

Many conventional cosmetic articles, such as wipes, are formed from polymeric materials of fossil origin, such as PET (polyethylene terephthalate, or polyester) and PP (polypropylene), which can be used alone or in combination with a material of natural origin. Such synthetic substrates are desirable because they are relatively less expensive to produce and offer good tensile strength, but since they virtually never degrade, they contribute detrimentally to the environment. As the cosmetics industry increasingly focuses on durability, there is a need for cosmetic articles that employ solid substrates derived from sources such as (1) naturally occurring fiber-based nonwovens, such as pulp, viscose, Lyocell, cellulose acetate, cotton, (2) nonwovens made from natural fibers, such as hemp, flax, seaweed, ramie, banana, pineapple, and (3) nonwovens made from regenerated or recycled fibers, such as cotton. As used herein, the terms "naturally occurring fiber" refer to fibrous materials formed by chemical processing that yield natural fiber derivatives; "natural fiber" means non-derived forms of natural fibers, and "reclaimed/recycled" means natural fibers that are recovered from goods formed with such fibers.

In some embodiments, the present article is formed from substrates that are obtained from sustainable sources and are biodegradable. In certain particular embodiments, these materials are selected from fibers of natural origin transformed into nonwovens, using fibers such as pulp, viscose, Lyocell, cellulose acetate and cotton . And in some embodiments, the substrates used to form cosmetic articles are Lyocell nonwovens. According to these embodiments which include biodegradable and sustainably sourced natural fibres, an obvious benefit is the possibility of reducing the environmental load. Other benefits can also be obtained by using sustainable and biodegradable substrates. As described in more detail herein, exemplified articles which employ durable and biodegradable substrates, particularly Lyocell nonwovens, exhibit unexpected mechanical, textural and absorbent properties and markedly increased performance compared to competing cosmetic articles which employ synthetic materials. As also described herein, exemplified articles which employ durable and biodegradable substrates, particularly Lyocell nonwovens, demonstrate enhanced performance, even as compared to the present inventive compositions which are impregnated in a synthetic substrate.

An item according to the disclosure is clammy to the touch. It has the advantage of being comfortable when applied to the skin and of having a nourishing effect thanks to the presence of an oily phase. When used to cleanse or remove make-up from the skin, an article according to the disclosure is passed over the skin, while optionally leaving it applied for a time sufficient for the make-up products to be dissolved in the impregnating composition of the article, then the skin is wiped clean. The skin can also be optionally rinsed afterwards. The article according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic article suitable for taking care of and/or treating the skin of the face, body or hands and for cleaning or removing make-up from the skin of the face and/or body. It can also be used to care for the hair and to remove make-up from the eyes.

An article according to the disclosure may have any form appropriate to the desired purpose. It may constitute a wipe which has a generally rectangular, square or other shape, which may be single-layered, multi-layered, and which may be folded or unfolded. The article may also be in the form of a glove, a mitten or any other form suitable for practical use on the face or the body, for example in the form of a face with holes for the sites of the eyes, nose and/or mouth, or in the form of a make-up remover finger for application when removing make-up from the eyelashes, or in the form of a disc with one or two faces which may in particular comprise two impregnated faces of different compositions. The article may also have a rough surface which allows the exfoliation (scrub) of the skin.

According to the disclosure, the inventive compositions overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide unexpected advantages, which include ease of general make-up removal, ease of foundation removal, clean and fresh feeling on the skin, softness and suppleness, ease of mascara removal (regular and waterproof) without rubbing, satisfactory size and thickness of the support (wipe), not too dry, non-greasy, leaving no residue and fragrance pleasant.

Through expert evaluations of make-up removal efficacy, the compositions of the disclosure have demonstrated significantly better performance in removing waterproof mascara and long-wear foundation compared to currently marketed make-up remover wipes, for example, Neutrogena(TM) Makeup Removing Cleansing Wipes and Garnier(TM) SkinActive Clean+ Refreshing Makeup Removing Cleansing Wipes, both formed of synthetic fiber substrates impregnated with cleansing compositions.

In a consumer study, the inventive compositions according to the disclosure not only performed better in makeup removal efficacy, including improved performance in removing both foundation and mascara, but also allowed consumer testers to a more pleasant experience and resulted in a better feeling of the skin after use. Inventive articles formed from natural fibers have demonstrated similar improved performance over comparative compositions and also over the same inventive compositions impregnated in a synthetic fiber substrate. The compositions according to the disclosure feel clean and fresh when applied, and do not leave the skin feeling greasy or sticky.

The compositions according to the disclosure include at least one branched or linear liquid alkane with a carbon chain length of C11 to C20, at least one polar emollient with a molecular weight of 400 g/mol or less, at least one polymeric thickener for a of water, and at least one alkylated glycerol ester in a water-based emulsion/suspension system comprising oily and aqueous phases, the aqueous phase including water present at about 70% to about 85% by weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the compositions may include more than one of each of the components, and may further include one or more additives, including humectants, preservatives, fragrances, actives, and pH adjusters, among others. other cosmetically acceptable additives.

(I) Liquid, branched or linear alkane

In accordance with the disclosure, the compositions include at least one liquid, branched or linear alkane, of carbon chain length from C11 to C20. In various embodiments, the liquid alkanes can be selected from those whose carbon chain has a length of C11 to C20. The liquid alkanes can be chosen from those whose carbon chain length is between C11 and C20, or between C15 and C19, or from C11, C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17, C18 and C19. In certain particular embodiments, suitable liquid alkanes which can be used according to the disclosure include oils based on hydrocarbons containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as isoalkanes in C8-C16. In certain exemplary embodiments, such liquid alkanes may be selected from isoparaffins, for example isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane.

In certain embodiments, the liquid, branched or linear alkane includes isohexadecane, a C15-19 alkane, isododecane, undecane, tridecane and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the composition includes two or more liquid, branched, or linear alkanes. In some of these embodiments, the branched or linear liquid alkane comprises isohexadecane.

The amount of each of the at least one liquid, branched or linear alkane is present in the composition in a range of from about 1% to about 12% by weight, or from about 3% to about 11% by weight, or from about 5% to about 10% or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, one of ordinary skill in this field will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

Thus, each of the at least one liquid, branched or linear alkane of the composition may be present by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of approximately 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, approximately 10 percent, including increments and ranges in between.

(ii) Polar emollients

In accordance with the disclosure, the compositions include at least one fleece emollient. Emollients are oil-phase ingredients selected from esters, triglycerides, ethers, carbonates, alcohols, oils, butters, fatty acids, and combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the polar emollients can be chosen from those whose molecular weight is less than or equal to 400 g/mole. More generally, the fleece emollient can have a molecular weight in the range of about 50 g/mole to about 350 g/mole.

In certain embodiments, suitable polar emollients which may be used according to the disclosure include those derived from C12-C50 fatty acids, preferably C16-C22 saturated fatty acids, and monohydric alcohols. In certain embodiments, these esters can be selected from isopropyl myristate, methyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl laurate, ethylhexyl oleate, ethylhexyl isononanoate , myristyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate/caprylate (or octyl caprate/caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and d fatty alcohols containing 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the polar emollient comprises one of isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate , coco caprylate/caprate, diisopropyl adipate and combinations thereof. In some particular embodiments, the fleece emollient comprises isopropyl myristate. In some embodiments, the composition includes two or more fleece emollients. In some of these embodiments, the fleece softener comprises isopropyl myristate and one or more other fleece softeners.

The amount of each of the at least one fleece softener is present in the composition in a range of about 1% to about 12% by weight, or about 3% to about 11% by weight, or about 5 % to about 10% or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, one of ordinary skill in this field will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

Thus, each of the at least one polar emollient of the composition can be present by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, from approximately 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, to approximately 10 percent, including increments and intermediate ranges.

(iii) Polymer thickener

According to various embodiments, the compositions include one or more polymeric thickeners. In certain embodiments, the one or more thickeners can be chosen from one or more of natural gums and synthetic polymers, for example, starches (corn, rice, tapioca, potato), gums (xanthan carrageenan, gellan , sclerotia, Tara Biotech fermentation). In certain particular embodiments, the thickener can be chosen from cross-linked polymer of acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate, carbomer, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl guar, ceratonia siliqua (locust bean) gum, polyacryloyldimethyl taurate of ammonium, cross-linked polymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate, and cross-linked polymer-6 of polyacrylate.

In certain embodiments, the polymeric thickener is one of carbomer, cross-linked polymer of acrylates/10-30 alkyl acrylates, cross-linked polymer-6 of polyacrylate, microcrystalline cellulose (and) cellulose gum, xanthan gum, sodium carboxymethyl starch, sclerotium gum (and) xanthan gum, xanthan gum (and) ceratonia siliqua (locust bean) gum (50/50), dehydroxanthan gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sclerotium gum ( and) xanthan gum (75/25), sclerotium gum, xanthan gum (and) sclerotium gum (and) lecithin (and) pullulan, and combinations thereof.

In some embodiments, the composition includes two or more polymeric thickeners. In some of these embodiments, the polymeric thickener comprises one or two of the cross-linked polymers of 10-30 alkyl acrylates/acrylates and a carbomer, and optionally one or more additional polymeric thickeners.

The amount of each of the at least one polymeric thickener is present in the composition in a range of about 0.01% to about 2%, or about 0.01% to about 1.5%, or about 0.3% to about 1.2%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, one of ordinary skill in this field will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

In some embodiments, the total amount of polymeric thickener in the composition is present from about 0.01% to about 5%, or from about 0.02% to about 2%, or from about 0.03 % to about 1.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.2%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition . However, one of ordinary skill in this field will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

Thus, one or more polymeric thickeners are present by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, from approximately 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0 .07, 0.08, 0.09, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2 .0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0 , 4.5 to approximately 5.0 percent, including increments and intermediate ranges.

(iv) Alkylated glycerol ester/surfactant

According to various embodiments, the compositions include at least one alkylated glycerol ester/surfactant. In certain embodiments, the one or more surfactants can be selected from esters of polyols with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms (e.g., 12 to 22 carbon atoms ), and their alkoxylated derivatives, such as glyceryl esters of one or more C8-C24 fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives, polyethylene glycol esters of one or more C8-C24 fatty acids and their derivatives alkoxylated, sorbitol esters of one or more C8-C24 fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives, sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of one or more C8-C24 fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives , fatty alcohol ethers, sugar ethers of one or more C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least one, and in some embodiments, two or more of glycerol alkylated esters. In some of these embodiments, the alkylated glycerol ester comprises one or more of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, caprylic/capric glycerides of PEG-7, caprylic/capric glycerides of PEG-6, disodium cocoyl glutamate (and) sodium cocoyl glutamate, coco-betaine, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, and combinations thereof.

In some embodiments, each of the at least one alkylated glycerol ester in the composition is present at from about 0.1% to about 2%, or from about 0.2% to about 1.5% , or from about 0.5% to about 1%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, one of ordinary skill in this field will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

In some particular embodiments, the total amount of alkylated glycerol ester/surfactant is present up to about 2%. In some embodiments, the total amount of alkylated glycerol ester/surfactant does not exceed about 2%. In some particular embodiments, the total amount of alkylated glycerol ester/surfactant is less than about 2%.

Thus, each of the at least one alkylated glycerol ester is present by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of approximately 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.55 , 0.6, 0.7, 0.75, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1 .7, 1.8, 1.9, to approximately 2.0 percent, including increments and ranges in between.

(v) Solvent / Water

According to various embodiments, water is present in the compositions in a range of from about 60% to about 90%, or from about 65% to about 85%, or from about 70% to about 85 %, or from about 75% to about 80%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, one of ordinary skill in this field will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. Thus, water is present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, from about 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, to about 90 percent by weight, including increments and ranges in between .

The water used can be sterile demineralised water and/or floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and/or thermal spring water or natural mineral, such as: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les- Baths, water from Néris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizières, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux Bonnes, water from Rochefort, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water or Avène water. The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted thermal water, i.e. water containing trace elements, such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc.

The pH of the composition is not limited but is generally between 2 and 12, and in certain embodiments, between 3 and 11, and between 5 and 9, and between 6 and 8, and in certain embodiments, it is 7. The pH can be adjusted to the desired value by adding a base (organic or inorganic) to the composition, for example, ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or else by adding an inorganic or organic acid, advantageously a carboxylic acid, such as citric acid for example.

In some embodiments, the composition may include one or more additional solvents, for example, monoalcohols, such as C1-C8 monoalcohols, alcohols, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol.

Humectant / moisturizing agent

In accordance with the disclosure, one or more humectants may be present in the compositions. In certain embodiments, the humectant can comprise one or more of the polyols, including, for example, glycerin, glycerol, glycols such as caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, monoethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycol ethers, such as monopropylene (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, dipropylene and tripropylene glycol, squalane, triacetin, sugars, such as glucose, xylitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose pentaerythritol, inositol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactic acid, lithium chloride, acetamide MEA, sodium lactate, urea, dicyanamide, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, honey and seaweed extract.

In some embodiments, the compositions include a humectant comprising glycerin.

According to various embodiments, the amount of humectant present in the compositions can vary from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 1% to about 8%, or from about 1% to about 5% , or from about 2% to about 3%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, one of ordinary skill in this field will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

Thus, any one humectant or combination of humectants may be present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, at about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, to about 10 percent by weight, including increments and ranges in between.

Optional Additives

The compositions can also comprise at least one additive used in the field of cosmetics which does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention, such as perfumes, pearling agents, silica, preservatives, proteins, protein hydrolysates, vitamins, panthenol , silicones, odor absorbers and dyestuffs; antimicrobial components, including but not limited to capryloyl glycine and sodium salicylate; essential oils ; fruit extracts, for example, Pyrus Malus (apple) fruit extract and Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice powder; citric acid, sodium chloride; neutralizing or pH adjusting agents (e.g., triethylamine (TEA) and sodium hydroxide), preservatives and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the compositions include at least one preservative comprising hydroxyacetophenone and caprylyl glycol or a combination thereof.

Although the optional active additives are given by way of example, it will be appreciated that other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art can be used. Although the optional additives are given by way of example, it will be appreciated that other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art can be used.

In accordance with various embodiments, the amount of one or more actives and additives, alone or in combination, present in the composition may range, according to the disclosure, from about 0.001% to about 20%, in weight, or from about 0.005% to about 0.01%, or from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, or from about 0.15% to about 5%, or from about 0.40% to about 4%, or about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, or about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Thus, any one or a combination of active ingredients and additives may be present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, each or the combination being present from about 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0, 20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 at about 20% by weight, including increments and ranges in between.

Substrate

According to various embodiments, articles are provided comprising a solid substrate impregnated with an inventive cosmetic composition. The make-up remover and cleansing article is made of synthetic materials or formed from biodegradable natural fibers and of sustainable natural origin, natural fibers or regenerated or recycled natural fibers.

According to some embodiments, the substrate is a nonwoven material. A general description of nonwoven materials is given in Riedel "Nonwoven Bonding Methods and Materials", Nonwoven World (1987). These substrates are obtained according to the normal methods of the technology for the preparation of nonwoven materials.

When the substrate is a non-woven material, one can use a non-woven material that does not end up in a ball and that is strong enough not to disintegrate and become fluffy when applied to the skin. It must be absorbent and soft at least on one side intended for eye make-up removal in particular. Mention may be made, where appropriate, of nonwoven materials, for example those sold under the names Ultraloft 15285-01, Ultraloft 182-008, Ultraloft 182-010 and Ultraloft 182-016 by BBA, Vilmed M1519 Blau, Vilmed M 1550 N and 112-132-3 by Freudenberg, that sold under the name Norafin 11601-010B by Jacob Holm Industries, the flocked nonwovens sold under the names Univel 109 and Univel 119 by Uni Flockage and that in viscose/PLA supplied by Sandler .

In some embodiments composing an article, a water-insoluble substrate is employed. The water-insoluble substrate can comprise one or more layers and it can be chosen from the group consisting of woven materials, non-woven materials, foams, sponges, wadding, in the form of sheets, balls or films. It may in particular be a non-woven substrate based on fibers of natural origin (linen, wool, cotton, silk, viscose, fibers made of bamboo) or of synthetic origin (derivatives of cellulose, derivatives polyvinyl, polyesters , such as polyethylene terephthalate), polyolefins, such as polyethylene (PET) or polypropylene, polyamides, such as Nylon, or acrylic derivatives) and mixtures thereof, such as viscose/PET, polylactic acid (PLA) or viscose/ polylactic acid (viscose/PLA).

According to one embodiment, the substrate is a nonwoven material, composed of viscose or a nonwoven material composed of a viscose/microviscose blend, by a process of hydroentangling.

In certain particular embodiments, the make-up remover and cleansing article comprises non-woven fibers, the fibers being formed from biodegradable natural fibers of sustainable origin chosen from (1) fibers of natural origin comprising one or a combination of pulp to paper, viscose, Lyocell, cellulose acetate and cotton, (2) natural fibers including one or a combination of hemp, flax, seaweed, ramie, banana and pineapple, and (3) regenerated or recycled fibers including cotton and combinations thereof.

According to one embodiment, the substrate is a nonwoven material formed from a biodegradable material, such as Lyocell.

According to some embodiments, the substrate may comprise one or more layers having the same or different properties and having properties of elasticity and flexibility and other properties appropriate to the desired use. The substrates may comprise, for example, two parts having different elastic properties, as described in WO-A-99/13861, or may comprise a single layer having different densities, as described in WO-A -99/25318, or may comprise two layers of different textures, as described in document WO-A-98/18441.

According to certain embodiments, when the article is used for the body, the substrate may comprise at least one rough face making it possible, at the same time, to massage the skin or to erase it.

According to the various embodiments, the substrate can be any size and shape that suits the desired purpose. Furthermore, it generally has an area between 0.005 m ² and 0.1 m ² , or between 0.01 m ² and 0.05 m ² . The weight of the substrate can be between 30 g/m ² and 200 g/m ² (gram per square meter), or between 40 g/m ² and 60 g/m ² .

According to the various embodiments, the degree of impregnation of the composition on the substrate generally ranges from 100% to 1000%, in certain embodiments from about 150% to about 700%, or from about 250% to about 400% of the weight of the substrate. Techniques for impregnating substrates with compositions are well known and can all be applied in the present invention. Generally, the impregnating composition is heated and added to the substrate by one or more techniques including dipping, coating, spraying, and the like.

The examples below according to the invention are given by way of illustration and without limitation. The names are the chemical name or the INCI name. The quantities are indicated therein in % by weight, unless otherwise stated.

EXAMPLES

EXAMPLE 1: RAW MATERIALS

INCI name Source and cosmetic functions 4-Hydroxyacetophenone
SYMSAVE H™; Symrise Niacinamide Vitamin B3, co-solubilizer Caffeine
Active compound, co-solubilizer

EXAMPLE 2: Inventive and Comparative Compositions:

Inventive
Ex 1 Comparative
Ex 1 Phase INCI name % in weight % in weight AT WATER (QS) 80.37 81.87 AT GLYCERIN 3 3 AT NIACINAMIDE 1.5 AT HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.5 0.5 AT HEXYLENE GLYCOL 1 1 AT TRISODIUM DISUCCINATE ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE 0.1 0.1 B CARBOMER 0.1 0.1 B ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.04 0.04 VS Sodium Hydroxide 0.04 0.04 VS WATER 1 1 D PIROCTONE OLAMINE 0.05 0.05 D CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 D ISOHEXADECANE 5 5 D ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 5 5 D DICAPRYLYL ETHER 1 1 D PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 1 1 Total (% by weight): 100 100 Results : White, smooth, flowing lotion with no visible solids White fluid lotion with presence of solids

Preparation of the compositions in Table 2 treated at room temperature (20 to 22°C): 1. Prepare phase A by combining the ingredients of phase A and mix well using a Reyneri mixer at 500 to 600 rpm/ minute for at least 20 minutes until all ingredients have dissolved, resulting in a colorless, clear solution. If necessary, use a rotor stator (Silverson) to break down the hydroxyacetophenone particles. 2. Add phase B to phase A by slowly adding polymeric thickeners to the water and mix well until the solution is homogeneous and free of lumps or gels. 3. Prepare the pH adjuster by mixing sodium hydroxide in water (phase C) and adding it to phase AB. Mix well until smooth. 4. Add D (oil phase to ABC and mix until smooth). Consider specifications (pH, viscosity).

EX 2
INV EX 3
INV EX 2
COMP EX 3 COMP EX 4 COMP Phase INCI name % % % % % AT WATER QS QS QS QS QS AT NIACINAMIDE 2 1.5 1 0.5 B HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 N/H weight ratio 4 3 2 1 0 Results : Completely dissolved, giving a colorless and clear solution (a few minutes) Completely dissolved, giving a colorless and clear solution (20 min) >95% dissolved solids, but some residual solids still visible after 40 min of mixing. Completely dissolved after prolonged mixing (>60 min). Not dissolving, hydroxyacetophenone solids are present in the solution mix Undissolved solids of hydroxyacetophenone are present in the solution mixture. Stored in a chamber at 4°C for 1 week Remained as a colorless, clear solution with no crystals Remained as a colorless, clear solution with no crystals Presence of hydroxyacetophenone crystals. N / A N / A

Preparation of compositions in Table 3 treated at room temperature (20-22°C): 1. Prepare phase A by adding niacinamide (solids) to water and mix well until all solids are dissolved (a few minutes ) using a Reyneri mixer at 500 to 600 rpm for at least 20 minutes until all the ingredients have dissolved, resulting in a colorless and clear solution. Next, hydroxyacetophenone phase B (solids) is added to the phase A solution and mixed well until all solids are dissolved.

EX 5 COMP EX 6 COMP EX 7 COMP Phase INCI name % % % AT WATER QS QS QS AT CAFFEINE 2 1 0.5 B HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.5 0.5 0.5 Results : Completely dissolved, giving a colorless, clear solution
(10-15 mins) Completely dissolved, giving a colorless, clear solution
(10-15 mins) Completely dissolved, giving a colorless, clear solution
(15-20 mins) Stored in a chamber at 4°C for 1 week crushed solids crushed solids crushed solids

Preparation of compositions in Table 4 treated at room temperature (20-22°C): 1. Prepare phase A by adding caffeine to water and mixing well until all solids are dissolved, giving a colorless and clear solution. Next, Phase B (solids) hydroxyacetophenone is added to the Phase A solution and mixed well until all solids are dissolved.

"One or more", as used herein, means at least one, and therefore includes the individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

The transitional terms "comprising", "consisting essentially of" and "consisting of", when used in the appended claims, in their original and amended form, define the scope of the claim with respect to additional elements or steps. not cited, if any, which are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). The term "comprising" is intended to be inclusive or broad and does not exclude any additional element, method, step or matter not listed. The term "consisting of" excludes any element, step or material other than those specified in the claim and, in the latter case, the ordinary impurities associated with the specified material(s). The term "essentially consisting of" limits the scope of a claim to specified elements, steps or matters and to those which do not materially affect the fundamental and novel feature(s) of the claimed invention. All materials and methods described herein that incorporate the present invention may, in alternate embodiments, be defined more specifically by one of the transitional terms "comprising", "consisting essentially of", and "consisting of".

Outside of the working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about", i.e. say within 10% of the number listed (for example, “about 10%” means 9% to 11% and “about 2%” means 1.8% to 2.2%).

All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise stated. All percentages are calculated on the basis of the total composition, unless otherwise indicated. As a general rule, unless expressly stated otherwise, "weight" or "quantity", as used herein in relation to the percentage quantity of an ingredient, refers to the quantity of raw material comprising the ingredient, the raw material can be described here as having a lower activity and up to 100% of the ingredient. Therefore, the weight percentage of an active in a composition is represented by the amount of raw material containing the active that is used, and may or may not reflect the final percentage of active, the final percentage of active depending on the percentage by weight of the active ingredient in the raw material.

All ranges and quantities given herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any point disclosed as a bound. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%" is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%", "1% to 5%", "2 % to 10%”, and so on. All numbers, quantities, ranges, etc., are intended to be modified by the term "approximately", whether or not expressly stated. Similarly, a given range of "about 1% to 10%" is meant to have the term "about" modifying both bounds by 1% and 10%. Further, it is understood that where an amount of a component is given, it is intended to mean the amount of active ingredient, unless expressly stated otherwise.

Although the numerical ranges and parameters defining the general scope of the disclosure are approximations, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values presented in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective test measurements. The following example serves to illustrate the embodiments of this disclosure without, however, being limiting.

Although the invention has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various modifications can be made and equivalents can be substituted for elements thereof without departing of the scope of the invention. Further, many modifications may be made to adapt a particular situation or material to the teachings of the invention without departing from the essential scope thereof. Accordingly, it is intended that the invention not be limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as being the best mode contemplated for carrying out this invention, but that the invention shall include all embodiments falling within the scope of the claims. annexed.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase having 4-hydroxyacetophenone solubilized with niacinamide. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, comprising:
a) 4-hydroxyacetophenone in an amount between about 0.2% and about 1.0%, by weight, based on the weight of the aqueous phase; And
b) niacinamide in an amount of about 1% to about 5%, by weight, based on the weight of the aqueous phase,
wherein the weight ratio between niacinamide and 4-hydroxyacetophenone in the aqueous phase is greater than 3.0. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, the cosmetic composition comprising the aqueous phase and components selected from the group consisting of water, humectants, preservatives, emollients, surfactants, emulsifiers, active compounds and combinations thereof. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, the cosmetic composition is a product chosen from the group consisting of a make-up remover, a cleanser, micellar water, a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, multiphase compositions comprising at least one aqueous phase. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the niacinamide comprises nicotinic acid, nicotinamide riboside, niacinamide ascorbate and salts thereof, or a combination thereof. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising
a) at least one liquid, branched or linear alkane, with a carbon chain length of C11 to C20;
b) at least one polar emollient with a molecular weight of 400 g/mole or less;
c) at least one polymeric thickener for a water-based system;
d) at least one surfactant; And
e) water present at about 70% to about 85% by weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 6, in which:
a) at least one liquid, branched or linear alkane, with a carbon chain length of C11 to C20, comprises isohexadecane;
b) the at least one polar emollient with a molecular weight less than or equal to 400 g/mol comprises isopropyl myristate;
c) the at least one polymeric water-based system thickener comprises a carbomer and a cross-linked acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate polymer; And
d) the at least one surfactant comprising an alkylated glycerol ester comprises PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 6, further comprising:
a) each of the at least one liquid, branched or linear alkane, with a carbon chain length of C11 to C20, is present in a proportion of approximately 5% to approximately 10% by weight of the composition;
b) each of the at least one polar emollient of molecular weight less than or equal to 400 g/mol is present in a proportion of approximately 5% to approximately 10% by weight of the composition;
c) each of the at least one polymeric water-based system thickener is present at from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of the composition; And
d) each of the at least one surfactant comprising an alkylated glycerol ester is present up to about 2% by weight of the composition. A cosmetic composition including an aqueous phase, the aqueous phase comprising 4-hydroxyacetophenone solubilized with niacinamide, wherein the weight ratio between niacinamide and 4-hydroxyacetophenone in the aqueous phase is greater than 3.0. Cosmetic composition of claim 9, comprising:
a) 4-hydroxyacetophenone in an amount between about 0.2% and about 1.0%, by weight, based on the weight of the aqueous phase; And
b) niacinamide in an amount of about 1% to about 5%, by weight, based on the weight of the aqueous phase.