FR3072574A1 - CAPILLARY TREATMENT AGENT STRENGTHENING THE STRUCTURE WITH INCREASED CARING EFFECT - Google Patents

Abstract

Hair treatment agents which contain, based on their weight, from 0.0001 to 30% by weight of methylmethionine, result in a strengthening of the internal structure of the hair as well as an increase in the capillary conditioning effect of the treatment agents capillary and thus improve the possibilities of combing, the maintenance and the volume of the hair, and decrease the frequency of the pointed forks.

Description

The invention relates to hair treatment agents, in particular shampoos and conditioners, with a combination of active ingredients for gentle and effective hair care.

The structure of the human hair is influenced by external and internal factors. External factors include hygiene products, the frequency and intensity of hair washing, chemical influences (wicks, dye, coloring, chlorinated water in your pools, etc.), mechanical influences (strong constraints such as e.g. hairstyles in a ponytail or a bun, frequent wearing of protective helmets), thermal influences (heat of the hair dryer, permanent or even influence of ultraviolet light, for example by permanent exposure to the sun or in solaria). Internal factors include: adequate sleep, adequate hydration through adequate water consumption, a balanced diet rich in vitamins, as well as health status (clinical picture) and taking certain medications.

A change in hair structure over the course of life can be triggered by a change in these factors, individually or in combination. Most of the time, the change is in your sense of strong hair becoming fine hair, shiny hair becoming dull, smooth and silky to dull and straw-colored, from rather curly to fine, pressed against your scalp, slack and airy to oily and sticky, and vice versa.

The differences between men and women on this subject relate to hair thickness and sensitivity to maintenance errors. Since men generally have shorter hair than your women, maintenance errors on the structure of the hair are much less visible than in women.

Each person experiences minor changes in the structure of their hair during their lifetime. The more your hair is handled with care, the longer the hair structure is healthy and normal.

The solution of subjecting the hair to further treatment in order to compensate for the damage caused to the structure of the hair has been known for a long time. In this case, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, generally in the form of a rinse. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the possibility of combing, maintaining and volume of hair, and reduces the frequency of split ends. These effects can be caused "outside structure". for example by depositing substances on the surface of the hair (cuticle) or "in the structure" by incorporating substances into the cortex. The internal structural reinforcement of the keratin fiber is of particular importance because it is more persistent and more durable than the external reinforcement.

The aim of the present invention was therefore to provide hair treatment agents which lead to a strengthening of the internal structure of the hair and increase the capillary conditioning effect of the hair treatment agents and thus improve the possibility of combing, maintaining and hair volume, and reduce the frequency of split ends.

It has been found that a special combination of active ingredients allows a significant improvement in internal strengthening.

A first object of the present invention relates to hair treatment agents containing - relative to their weight -

a) from 0.0001 to 20% by weight of methionine;

b) from 0.0001 to 30% by weight of methylmethionine.

Hair treatment agents, within the meaning of the present invention, are, for example, shampoos, hair conditioners, shampoos with conditioning effect, hair sprays, conditioners, hair cures, hair preparations, hair toners, perm fixation solutions, coloring shampoos, hair coloring agents, hair fixers, hair setting agents, styling preparations, lotions for use with hair dryers, foaming fixatives, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. Since in particular your men often avoid using several different agents and / or several stages of application, we will favor your agents anyway used by your men. The preferred agents are therefore your shampoos, your conditioning agents or hair toners.

Hair treatment agents contain methionine. This is preferably used in tighter ranges of quantities, the hair treatment agents according to the invention containing - relative to their weight - a total amount ranging from 0.0005 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 2% by weight of methionine, being preferred.

The other essential ingredient of the agents according to the invention is methionylmethionine.

Methionylmethionine is the dipeptide of your methionine and has your following structure:

From the methionylmethionine dipeptide, there are four different stereoisomers DD, LL, DL and LD. Of the four stereoisomers, only Lmethionyl-L-methionine is natural, the other three dipeptles L-methionyl-Dmethionine, D-methionyl-L-methionine and D-methionyl-D-methionine are all unnatural. The positive effects described in the hair treatment agents can be obtained with each of the four stereoisomeric dipeptides. Methionylmethionine can be used as a DD / LL / LD / DL mixture, as a DL / LD mixture or DD / LL mixture. In principle, the use of a stereoisomeric dipeptide alone or in combination with one or two other stereoisomers is also possible. If only one stereoisomeric dipeptide is used, it is preferable to choose L-methionyl-L-methionine or D-methionyl-Dmethionine.

Preferred hair treatment agents are characterized in that methionylmethionine is a mixture of L-methionyl-L-methionine, Lmethionyl-D-methionine, D-methionyl-L-methionine and D-methionyl-Dmethionine.

The two pairs DD / LL-methionylmethionine and DL / LD-methionylmethionine are diastereoisomeric with respect to each other and present different physical data. Thus, for example, the diastereoisomer pair DD / LL has at room temperature a solubility of 21.0 g / l in water, while the solubility of the pair of diastereoisomers DL / LD is 0.4 g / l. Consequently, it may be preferable to use methionylmethionine as a DD / LL mixture or as a DD / LL / LD / DL mixture with a high proportion in pairs of DD / LL diastereoisomers. These mixtures can be easily incorporated / dissolved in an aqueous phase or an aqueous-surfactant phase.

The preferred hair treatment agents are characterized in that they contain - relative to their weight - from 0.0005 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight. weight and in particular from 0.01 to 5% by weight of methionylmethionine.

The cationic polysaccharide polymers increase the care performance of the hair treatment agents according to the invention (in particular the effectiveness of the agents according to the invention against brittle hair). The suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers can be chosen from cellulosic compounds and / or cationic guar gum derivatives.

The hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention contain, as cationic polysaccharide polymer (s) - relative to the weight of the agent - from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0, 05 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight and in particular from 0.15 to 0.8% by weight of at least one polymer derived from the group of cationic cellulosic polymers and / or cationic guar derivatives.

In summary, the hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - relative to their weight - from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, so more preferred from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight and in particular from 0.15 to 0.8% by weight of cationic polymer (s), preferably from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight and in particular from 0.15 to 0.8% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic cellulosic polymers and / or cationic guar derivatives.

The cationic cellulosic compounds within the meaning of the invention are those which support more than one permanent cationic charge in at least one side chain. Cellulose is composed of D-glucopyranosyl units linked by glycosidic bonds of beta-1,4 type and form unbranched as well as water-insoluble chains. The chemical substituents which attach to the cellulosic structure and which do not form part of natural cellulose, since they were, for example, subsequently integrated via chemical synthesis, are defined as "side chain" of a cellulose.

Priority is given to your quaternary cellulosic polymers which are derived from hydroxy (C2-C4) alkylcellulose celluloses, particularly preferably hydroxyethylcelluloses.

These polymers are known to those skilled in the art and are marketed by various companies. The cationic cellulose derivatives known under the names INCI Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquatemium-24, Polyquatemium-67 and / or Polyquaternium-72 are particularly preferred.

Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24 and / or Polyquaternium-67 are particularly preferred, Polyquaternium-10 is particularly preferred.

The preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, as cationic polysaccharide polymer (s) - relative to the weight of the agent - from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0 0.05 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight and in particular 0.15 to 0.8% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of Polyquaternium-4 , Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and / or Polyquaternium-72.

The particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, as cationic polysaccharide polymer (s) - relative to the weight of the agent - from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably of 0.05 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight and in particular 0.15 to 0.8% by weight of Polyquaternium-10.

The cationic guar derivatives suitable within the meaning of the invention are the cationic hydroxyalkyl guar derivatives, preferably the cationic hydroxyethyltrimethylammonium guar and / or the cationic hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar having average molecular weights of between 100,000 and 2,000,000 daltons. The cationic guar polymers having a molecular mass (weight of the agent) of between 200,000 and 1,600,000 daltons known under the name INCI Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride are particularly preferred. The cationic charge density of these guar polymers is preferably at least 0.4 meq / g, more preferably at least 0.5 meq / g and in particular at least 0.6 meq / g. Their nitrogen content is preferably in the range of 1.1 to 1.8% by weight (based on their total weight).

The cationic guar derivatives, known under the name INCI Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, are known to those skilled in the art and are for example marketed by different suppliers under your trade names Cosmedia®Guar, N-Hance® and / or Jaguar®.

The particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, as cationic polysaccharide polymer (s) - relative to the weight of the agent - from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably of 0.05 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight and in particular 0.15 to 0.8% by weight of Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.

The hair treatment agents according to the invention may contain other ingredients, these containing, in a particularly preferred manner, one or more surfactant (s). In your hair cleansing agents, the anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants as well as, if appropriate, nonionic have particularly proven themselves in this case; whereas the cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s) as well as, if appropriate, the nonionic surfactants are mainly used in your hair care agents.

The preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention therefore contain - relative to the weight of the agent - from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0, 25 to 8% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 7% by weight of surfactant (s).

The hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one anionic and / or amphoteric and / or nonionic surfactant.

As anionic surfactants and emulsifiers, all of your anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body are suitable for your compositions according to the invention. They are characterized by an anionic group, making it soluble in water, for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups as well as hydroxyl. Free of suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are, respectively, in the form of sodium, potassium and ammonium salts as well as in the form of mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soap),

- the etheric carboxylic acids of formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O); xrCH2COOH, R being a linear alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, the acylsarcosides having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

- acyltaurates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acylisethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfons of linear alkanes having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, sulfonates of linear alpha-olefins having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfonated fatty acid methylesters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

- your acyl glutamates of the formula (T-1),

XOOC-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH-COOX (T-î)

I

HN-COR ¹ in which R ¹ CO represents a linear or branched acyl radical having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X represents hydrogen, an alkali metal and / or alkaline- earthy, an ammonium, an alkyl ammonium, an alkanol ammonium or a glucammonium, for example acyl glutamates which are derived from fatty acids having from 6 to 22, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms such as C _12/1 4 or Cwts coconut fatty acids, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid, in particular te sodium-N-cocoylglutamate and te sodium- N-stearoyl-L-glutamate,

- Your esters of a hydroxysubstituted di- or tricarboxyic acid of the general formula (T-ll),

X

I

HO C - COOR ¹ (T-ll) i

γ CH --- COOR ² in which X ~ H or a group -CH ₂ COOR, Y - H or is -OH, provided that Y = H, if X ~ -CH ₂ COOR, R, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, a cation of an organic ammonium base or a radical Z, which comes from a polyhydroxylated organic compound , which are chosen from the group of etherified alkylpolysaccharides (C ₁ -C ₆ ) having from 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or etherified aliphatic hydroxyalkyl polyols (C ₁ -C ₆ ) having from 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, provided that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ² is a radical Z,

- the esters of Ifosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinates of the general formula (T-III),

H ₂ C --- COOR ¹ (T-lll)

I

M ^{(n + / n)} O ₃ S - CH - COOR ² in which where n = 1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an organic ammonium base and, where n 2, represents an alkaline earth metal cation and R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation d '' an organic ammonium base or a radical Z, which comes from a polyhydroxylated organic compound, which is chosen from the group of etherified alkylpolysaccharides (C ₆ -Cis) having from 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or hydroxyalkylpolyols (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) etherified aliphatics having from 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, provided that at least one of the groups R ¹ or R ² is a radical Z,

- your esters of mono- and dialkyls of sulfosuccinic acid having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and the monoalkylpolyoxyethylesters of sulfosuccinic acid having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and from 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups ,

- alkyl sulfates and alkylpolyglycol ether sulfates of formula R- (OCHz-CHzXrOSOsH, in which R represents a preferred linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

- the surfactant hydroxysulfonates mixed in accordance with DE-A37 25 030,

- esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which have adducts of approximately 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide on fatty alcohols in Cg-22,

- your alkyl ether and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, the alkylene glycol esters of sulphated fatty acids,

- monoglyceride sulfates and ether sulfates of monoglycerides.

The preferred anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are acyl glutamates, acylisethionates, acylsarcosinates and acyltaurates, respectively with a linear or branched acyl radical having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, which is chosen in the particularly preferred embodiments from an octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl and stearoyl radical, esters of tartaric, citric or succinic acid or of the salts of these acids with alkylated glucose, in particular products with the INCI name Disodium CocoGlucoside Citrate, Sodium Coco-Glucoside Tartrate and Disodium CocoGlucoside Sulfosuccinate, your alkylpolyglycol ether sulfates and your ether carboxylic acids having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethoxy groups in the molecule, your mono- and dialkyl esters of sulfosuccinic acid having 8 to 18 carbon atoms arbone in the alkyl group and the monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters of sulfosuccinic acid having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and from 1 to 6 ethoxy groups.

Other preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkylpolyglycol ether sulfates and carboxylic ether acid salts having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ether glycol groups in the molecule, and the mono- and / or dialkyl esters of sulfosuccinic acid having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and the polyoxyethyl monoalkyl esters of sulfosuccinic acid having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and from 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

The particularly preferred anionic surfactants are the alkali or ammonium salts of lauryl ether sulfate having a degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 4 EO.

The preferred hair treatment agents contain - relative to their weight - 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.75 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 to 12% by weight and in particular 2 to 10% by weight in anionic surfactant (s).

The particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - relative to their weight - 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.75 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 to 12% by weight and in particular 2 to 10% by weight of (ether) alkyl sulfates of the general formula R (OCH ₂ ~ CH ₂ ) _n -OSO3X, in which R represents a linear or branched, saturated alkyl group or unsaturated having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, n represents the number 0 or 1 to 12, and X represents an alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium or alkanolamine ion.

Instead of an anionic surfactant or in addition to the latter, the hair treatment agents according to the invention may contain at least one amphoteric surfactant and / or at least one non-anionic surfactant. By amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants is meant surfactants having a functional group with both a negative and a positive charge.

Particularly preferred zwitterionic surfactants are bentaines such as dimethylammonium N-alkyl-NN-glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropylN, dimethylammonium N-glycinate, for example acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate coco, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline with respectively 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group as well as te acylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate of coconut. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative, known under the name INCI Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Other examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N ~ alkyl · glycines, your N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, your N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, your N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, your N -alkylsarcosines, 2alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids with respectively from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are te coconut alkylamine N-propionate, coconut acylaminoethylamine propionate and C1-2 acyl acyl sarcosine.

The preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, relative to their weight - 0.3 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 6% by weight and particular 1 to 5% by weight of amphoteric surfactant (s).

The preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amphoteric surfactant (s) from the group (s) of

N-alkyl glycines,

- N-alkylpropionic acids,

- N-alkylamlnobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines,

N-alkylsarcosines,

- 2-alkylaminopropionic acids with respectively around 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

- alkylaminoacetic acids with respectively about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

Coconut alkyl N-aminoproplonates,

- coconut acylaminoethyl aminopropionates,

- acyl sarcosines in Cia-Gis,

- N-alkyl- ^ N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinates,

- your N-acyl-aminopropyl-KN-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example your coconut acylaminopropyldlmethylammonium glycinates,

2-alkyl3-carboxymethyl ~ 3-hydroxyethyl-imldazoline with respectively 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyte group,

- coconut acylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinates,

- your compounds known under the name INCI Cocamidopropyl Betaine,

- the compounds known under the name INCI Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, the preferred agent containing te (s) surfactant (s) amphoteric (s) in amounts of 0.3 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 6% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight, respectively based on the total agent.

Particularly preferred hair treatment agents contain, as amphoteric surfactants, betaine of formula (Bet-I)

(Bet-I), in which R represents a linear or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

These surfactants are called Amidopropylbetaine according to the INCI nomenclature, representatives derived from coconut fatty acids being preferred and called Cocoamidopropylbetaine. The surfactants used in a particularly preferred manner according to the invention are those of the formula (Bet-I), which are a mixture of the following representatives:

H3C- (CH2) 7-C (O) -NH- (CH2) 3N ⁺ (CH3) 2CH2COOH3C- (CH2) 9-C (O) -NH- (CH2) 3N ⁺ (CH3) ₂ CH ₂ COOΗ30 - (0Η ₂ ) _Ί1 -0 (Ο) -ΝΗ- (0Η2) 3Ν ⁺ (0Η3) 20Η20ΟΟ · H3C- (CH2) 13-C (O) -NH- (CH2) 3N ⁺ (CH3) ₂ CH ₂ COO ”H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) 15-C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) 3N ⁺ (CH3) 2CH2COOH3C- (CH2) 7-CH ^ CH- (CH2) 7-C (O) - NH ~ (CH2) 3N ⁺ (CH3) 2CH2COO

Particularly preferably, the surfactants of formula (Bet-I) are used in smaller amounts. The preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are those which contain - relative to their weight 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 6 , 5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5% by weight of surfactant (s) of formula (Bet-I).

Instead of or in addition to the amphoteric surfactant (s) of formula (BetI), the hair treatment agents according to the invention may particularly preferably contain betaine of formula (Bet-ll) as surfactant (s) amphoteric (s).

in which R represents a linear or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

These surfactants are called Amphoacetate according to the INCI nomenclature, the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids being preferred and called Cocoamphoactetate.

For reasons related to the manufacturing technique, such surfactants also always contain betaine of formula (Bet-lla)

(Bet-11a), in which R represents a linear or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and M represents a cation.

These surfactants are called Amphodiacetate according to the INCI nomenclature, the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids being preferred and called Cocoamphodiactetate.

The surfactants used in a particularly preferred manner according to the invention are those of the formula (Bet-ll), which are a mixture of the following representatives:

H ₃ C- (CH2) 7C (O) -NH- (CH2) 2NH ⁺ (CH2CH2OH) CH2CH ₂ COO ·

H3C- (CH ₂ ) _s -C (O) -NH- (CH2) 2NH ⁺ (CH2CH2OH) CH2CH2COO 'H3C- (CH2) nC (O) -NH- (CH2) 2NH ⁺ (CH2CH2OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO 'H ₃ C- (CH2) 13-C (O) -NH- (CH2) 2NH ⁺ (CH2CH2OH) CH2CH2COOH3C- (CH2) 15C (O) -NH- (CH2) 2NH * (CH2CH2OH) CH2CH2COOH3C - (CH2) 7-CH = CH- (CH2) 7-C (O) -NH- (CH2) 2NH ⁺ (CH2CH2OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO '

Particularly preferably, the surfactants of formula (Bet-11) are used in smaller amounts. The preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are those which contain - relative to their weight 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 6 , 5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5% by weight of surfactant (s) of formula (Bet-ll).

In summary, the preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are those for which the radical R in the formulas (Bet-I) and (Bet-ll) is chosen from H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) _? - H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₉ - H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) h- H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₃ - H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₅ H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ - CH = CH ~ (CH ₂ ) ₇ - or mixtures thereof.

Hair treatment agents may contain a non-ionic surfactant (s).

Are for example part of the suitable nonionic surfactants

- Adducts of 4 to 30 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or of 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide on linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, on fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and on alkyl phenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

- Adducts of ethylene oxide and polyglycerine on the esters of methylglucoside fatty acids, the alkanolamides of fatty acids and the glucamides of fatty acids,

- C ₈ -C ₃ fatty acid mono- and diesters o adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide on glycerin,

- aminoxides,

- the fatty acid esters of sorbitan and the adducts of ethylene oxide on the fatty acid esters of sorbitan, for example your polysorbates,

- the fatty acid alkanolamides of the following general formula,

O

H / ^R '

R— ^d —N.

R 'in which R preferably represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and the radicals R' represent hydrogen or the group (CH ₂ ) nOH, in which n represents the number 2 or 3, provided that at least one of the radicals R ′ represents the radical ™ (CH ₂ ) nOH mentioned above,

- your fatty acid esters of sugar and the adducts of ethylene oxide on your fatty acid esters of sugar,

- Adducts of ethylene oxide on fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, and / or

- alkyl (oligo) glycosides,

- mixtures from alkyl (oligo) glycosides and fatty alcohols, for example the product Montanov® 68 commercially available,

- your adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide on castor oil and hardened castor oil,

- your partial esters of polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

- sterols. By sterols is meant a group of steroids which supports a hydroxyl group at the carbon atom 3 of the steroid structure and is isolated from animal tissues (zoosterols) such as vegetable fats (phytosterols). As free from zoosterols, mention may be made of cholesterol and lanosterok. Free from suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols, specifically mycosterols, are also isolated from fungi and yeasts.

- phospholipids. Among them, glucose phospholipids which are extracted for example as lecithin or phosphatidylcholine from egg yolks or vegetable seeds (eg soybeans).

The suitable alkyl (oligo) glycosides can be chosen from the compounds of the general formula RO- [G] _X in which [G] is preferably derived from aldoses and / or ketoses having 5-6 carbon atoms, preferably derived from glucose.

The index x represents the degree of oligomerization (DP), that is to say the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides. The subscript x preferably has a value in the range of 1 to 10, particularly preferably in the range of 1 to 3, which may not be a whole number, but may be a fraction, which can be analytically determined.

The particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides have a degree of oligomerization of between 1.2 and 1.5.

The radical R preferably represents at least one alkyl radical and / or an alkenyl radical having from 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

The particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides are the compounds known by your names INCI Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside.

The appropriate aminoxides can be chosen from at least one compound of the general formulas (A-1) or (A-H)

O

H

(A-l)

^ ch ₃ (A-11), in which R represents respectively a linear or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

The particularly preferred surfactants are those known under the names INCI Cocamine Oxide, Lauramine Oxide and / or Cocamidopropyl aminoxide, sold by different suppliers, represented by the formulas (A-1) or (A-ll) mentioned above.

The term “suitable C ₈ -C ₃ fatty acid mono- and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide on glycerol” means those which are known under the INCI names PEG (1-10) Glyceryl Cocoate, in particular PEG-7 Glyceryî Cocoate.

It may also be advantageous to combine the esters of ethoxylated fatty acids with other esters of ethoxylated fatty acids. Such product mixtures are commercially available, for example under the name "Antil 200®" (INCI name: PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) from the company Evonik.

The particularly preferred nonionic surfactants which can be contained in the hair treatment agents according to the invention are the fatty acid alkanolamides, in particular the compounds known under the names INCI Cocamide MEA and / or Cocamide MIRA; your alkyl (oligo) glycosides, in particular your compounds known under the names INCI Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and / or Coco Glucoside; C ₈ -C ₃ fatty acid mono- and diesters o adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide on glycerin, in particular the compound known under the name INCI PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ; and / or the adducts of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide on linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Cocamide MEA and / or PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate are particularly preferred because of their foam stabilizing and lipid-stabilizing properties.

The preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, relative to their weight - 0.3 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 6% by weight and particular 1 to 5% by weight of nonionic surfactant (s).

The hair treatment agents according to the invention may preferably contain at least one quaternary ammonium compound (QAV), the preferred QAV (s) being chosen from

- alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides preferably having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or

- dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides preferably having from to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or

- your trialkylmethylammonium chlorides preferably having from to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or

- cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or

- stearitrimethylammonium chloride and / or

- behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or

- distearyldimethylammonium chloride and / or

- lauryldimethylammonium chloride and / or

- te lauryldimethylbenzylammomum chloride and / or

- tricetylmethylammonium chloride

- Quaternium ~ 27 and / or

- Quaternium-83.

The preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, relative to their weight - 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 8% by weight and particular 0.5 to 7% by weight of cationic surfactant (s).

The particularly preferred cationic surfactants are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (IV)

R1 ~ -N -— R4 I R3 (IV), in which a maximum of three radicals from R1 to R4 independently of one another represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms , at least one radical from R1 to R4 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and A represents a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion,

In the preferred compounds according to formula (IV),

two or three radicals R1 to R4 represent a methyl or ethyl group,

one or two radicals R1 to R4 represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl chain having from 14 to 26 carbon atoms, and

- A represents a halide ion, a sulfate ion of general formula RSO3 ·, in which R represents saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an anionic radical of an organic acid such as maleic acid , fumaric acid, oxalic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid or acetic acid.

More preferred are the compounds of formula (IV), in which

three radicals R1 to R4 represent a methyl group,

a radical R1 to R4 represents a methyl, palmityl, stearyl, arachidyl or behenyl group, and

- A represents a chloride or a methosulfate ion.

Particularly preferred is at least one compound of formula (IV) chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate. These compounds can be used individually or combined in the agent according to the invention, the total amount of compounds of formula (I) in the agent preferably amounting to 10% by weight maximum, and the amounts indicated relate to the total weight of the agent according to the invention.

In a particularly preferred manner, an agent according to the invention contains behenyltrimethylammonium chloride as cationic surfactant. The preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, relative to their weight - 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 8% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 7% by weight of behenyltrimethylammonium chloride.

In summary, the preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - relative to the weight of the agent - 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 8% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 7% by weight of cationic surfactant (s), preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 8% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 7% by weight of behenyltrimethylammonium chloride.

Hair treatment agents may also contain at least one esterquat as a cationic surfactant.

By “esterquats” within the meaning of the present invention, is preferably meant the compounds of the following formula (V)

R6

The

R5 --------- NX-R8 A ^R7 (V), in which the radicals R5, R6 and R7 can be, each independently of the other, identical or different and represent the following:

- a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

- a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl radical, or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic alkyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

- an aryl or an alkylaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl, or

- (- X - R8), provided that a maximum of 2 of the radicals R5, R6 or R7 can represent (- X - R8),

X representing the following:

- - (CH2) n- with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1 - 5, or

- - (CH ₂ ~ CHR9-O) _n - with n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, more preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20, as well as with R9 representing hydrogen, methyl or ethyl, or

a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from one to four carbon atoms, which may be branched or linear, and which contains at least one and at most three hydroxyl groups, and

R8 representing the following:

- R10-O-CQ-, formula in which R10 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl radical, or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic alkyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which can contain at least one hydroxyl group, and which can, if appropriate, also be oxyethylenated with 1 to 100 units of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 100 units of propylene oxide, or

- R11-CO-, formula in which R11 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl radical, or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic alkyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which can contain at least one hydroxyl group, and which may, if appropriate, also be oxyethylenated with 1 to 100 units of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 100 units of propylene oxide, and in which A represents a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion, preferably a radicals R5, R6 or R7 represents the group (·· X - R8), R8 represents a non-ethoxylated fatty acid radical, such as a palmitic, stearic, arachic or behenic acid radical, in particular an acid radical stearic, and A represents a halide ion, a sulfate ion of the general formula RSO ₃ , in which R represents saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an anionic radical of an organic acid such as l 'at maleic, fumaric, oxalic, tartaric, citric, lactic or acetic cide, in particular a chloride ion or a methosulfate ion.

The esterquats suitable for your agents according to the invention are preferably chosen from at least one of the products sold under the trade names Rewoquat®, Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, Armocare® and Akypoquat®. Specific examples of esterquats which are particularly suitable according to the invention are the products Armocare® VGH-70, Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80, Dehyquart® F-30, Dehyquart® AU35, Rewoquat® WE18 , Rewoquat® WE38 DPG, Stepantex® VS 90 and Akypoquat® 131.

The agents particularly preferred according to the invention are those which contain, as esterquat, at least one of the compounds known under the names INCI Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate and Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Chloride.

Particularly preferred is Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Metho ·· sulfate which can be present in the agents according to the invention in a preferred amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.75 to 6% by weight and in particular from 1% to 5% by weight, the quantities indicated relate to the total weight of the agent according to the invention.

The esterquat (s) can / can be added in the agents according to the invention both individually and in the form of mixtures with other caring active ingredients.

Due to the better handling properties and workability, it may be advantageous to add the esterquats, in particular Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, to the agents according to the invention as a mixture of active principles. An example which is particularly suitable for such a mixture of active principles is for example available under the trade name Dehyquart® F 75 from the company BASF (Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate and Cetearyl Alcohol).

The preferred hair treatment agents contain at least one fatty alcohol.

The fatty alcohols are primary aliphatic, long chain and monovalent alcohols with hydrocarbon radicals having 6 to 30, preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon radicals can be saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated. The fatty alcohols used in a preferred manner in the context of the present invention are chosen from hexane-1-ol, heptane-1-ol, octane-1-ol, decane-1-ol, dodecane-1-ol (lauryl alcohol) , tetradecane-1-ol (myristyl alcohol), hexadecane-1-ol (cetyl alcohol), 1-heptadecanol (Calgary alcohol), octadecane-1-ol (stearyl alcohol), eisosane-1-ol (arachidyl alcohol), 1 -docosanol (behenic alcohol), tetracosane-1-ol (lignoceryl alcohol), 1-hexacosanol (ceramic alcohol), 1-octacosanol (montanyl alcohol), triacontane-1-ol (myricylic alcohol), c / s-9-hexadecene -1 ~ ol (palmitoleic alcohol), c / s-9-octadecene-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), trans-9octadecene-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), as-11-octadecene-1-ol, 6.9 , 12octadecatriene-1-ol (y-linolenic alcohol) and their mixtures.

The preferred hair treatment agents are characterized in that they contain - relative to their weight - 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.75 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 to 12% by weight and in particular 2 to 10% by weight of fatty alcohol (s).

The particularly preferred hair treatment agents are characterized in that they contain - relative to their weight - 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight. weight and in particular 2 to 8% by weight of fatty alcohol (s) of formula (III) H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) rCH ₂ -OH (III) in which k represents whole numbers from 4 to 28, preferably from 6 to 24, more preferably from 8 to 22 and in particular 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 or 20.

The hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - relative to their weight - 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 at 10% by weight and in particular 2 to 8% by weight of alcohol (s) from the group comprising te dodecane-1-ol (lauryl alcohol), hexadecane-1-ol (cetyl alcohol), octadecane -1 -ol (stearyl alcohol), te 1-docosanol (behenic alcohol), the amounts relating to the total amount of fatty alcohols mentioned in the composition.

The hair treatment agents very particularly preferred according to the invention contain - relative to their weight - 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight and in particular 2 to 8% by weight of alcohol (s) coming from the group comprising hexadecane-1-ol (cetyl alcohol), octadecane-1-ol (stearyl alcohol), the amounts relating to the total amount fatty alcohols mentioned in the composition.

The hair treatment agents preferably contain at least one silicone which guarantees pleasant hair to the touch and further strengthens the structural strengthening action of the combination according to the invention.

The preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one silicone which is chosen from:

(i) polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, whether they are volatile or not, linear, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or noncrosslinked;

(ii) polysiloxanes, the general structure of which comprises one or more organofunctional groups, which are chosen from:

a) substituted or unsubstituted amino groups;

b) (per) fluorinated groups;

c) thiol groups;

d) carboxylate groups;

e) hydroxyl groups;

f) alkoxylated groups;

g) acyloxyalkyl groups;

h) amphoteric groups;

i) bisulfite groups;

j) hydroxyacylamino groups;

k) carboxy groups;

l) sulfonic acid groups; and

m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;

(iii) polysiloxanes (A) - polyoxyalkyls (B) - blockcopolymers of type (AB) _n with n>3;

(iv) grafted silicone polymers comprising an organic basic structure containing no silicone, which consist of an organic main chain consisting of organic monomers containing no silicone, on which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain , if necessary, at least at one of the ends of the chain;

(v) grafted silicone polymers comprising a basic polysiloxane structure, onto which organic monomers containing no silicone have been grafted, which polymers have a main polysiloxane chain and on which at least one organic macromer containing no silicone has has been grafted into the chain, if any, at least at one end of the chain;

or their mixtures.

The preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - relative to their weight - from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 1 to 5% by weight of silicone (s).

The preferred silicones are described below.

The agents particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-I (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ kO-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-I), in which x represents a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular from 0 to 10.

These silicones are designated under the name DIMETHICONE according to the INCI nomenclature. In the context of the present invention, the following compounds are preferably used as silicone of formula Si-I:

(CH ₃ ) ₃ SI-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) 3Si-O- (CH ₃ ) 2Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O (CH3) ₂ If] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ If] ₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- ( CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] 7-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₁ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH3) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ SI- (O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) 2Si] 8-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- (O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] i ₂ - O-Si (CH3) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] uO-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (CH ₃ ) 3Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₅ - O-Si (CH3) 3 (CH ₃ ) 3Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) 3Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) 3Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ S! - [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Sî] i3-OS! (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) 3Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ 0-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (CH ₃ ) ₃ Sj-O-Si ( CH ₃ ) 3, (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 e t / or (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O (CH ₃ ) 2Si] 2-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 being particularly preferred.

Mixtures of the above-mentioned silicones can of course also be contained in the agents according to the invention. The silicones which can be used in a preferred manner according to the invention have viscosities of 0.2 to 2 mm ² s ′ ¹ at 20 ° C., the silicones having viscosities of 0.5 to 1 mm ² s ′ ¹ being particularly preferred.

The agents particularly preferred according to the invention contain one or more aminofunctional silicones. Such silicones can for example be described by the formula

M (R aQfeS i O (4-a-b) / 2) x (RcS ΐθ i4-c) / 2) y M

R representing in the preceding formula a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q representing a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, in which R ¹ represents a divalent linking group which is linked to a hydrogen and the radical Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms, or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z represents a aminofunctional organic radical which contains at least one aminofunctional group; "A" being equal to a value in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" being equal to a value in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" being less than or equal to 3, and "c" being a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and x being a number in the range of about 1 to about 2,000, preferably about 3 to about 50 and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and therein being a number in the range of from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000 and most preferably from about 150 to about 1000, and M being a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the prior art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-exhaustive examples of the radicals represented by R include alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halogenated vinyl, vinyl alkyl, allyl, halogenated allyl, allyl alkyl; cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl, benzyl, halogenated hydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like as well as sulfuric radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, te mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; R preferably represents an alkyl radical containing 1 to approximately 6 carbon atoms and most preferably R represents methyl. Examples of R ¹ are methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC ( O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H4-, -c ₆ h ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an aminofunctional organic radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _Z NH ₂ , in which z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) zzNH, in which z and zz are independently equal to 1 or more, this structure comprising cyclic diamine structures such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a radical -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . Another possible formula for Z is - N (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) zzNX ₂ or -NX ₂₁ in which each X is chosen, independently of X ₂ , from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar aminofunctional radical of the formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH2NH ₂ . In formulas, "a" is equal to a value in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" is equal to a value in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b Is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio between the units R _a Q _b SiO ( ₄ - _a -b) / ₂ and R _c SiO (4-0) / 2 is from about 1: 2 to 1: 65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65 and most preferably from about 1: 15 to about 1 : 20. If one or more silicones of the previous formula are used, then the various variable substituents of the previous formula can diverge for the different silicone components contained in the silicone mixture.

The preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an aminofunctional silicone of the formula (Si-H)

R ' _a G ₃ - _a -Si (OSiG ₂ ) _n - (OSiG _b R' ₂ .. _B ) _m -O-SiG ₃ - _a -R ' _a (SMI), in which:

- G represents -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-

ΟΗ ₂ ΟΗ ₃₎ -CH ₂ CH _3i -O-CH ₂ CH2CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -OCH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ ,

-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃₎ -OC (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;

- a represents a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;

- b represents a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,

- m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is equal to a value between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, n being preferably equal to a value ranging from 0 to 1 999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m being preferably equal to a value ranging from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,

- R 'is a monovalent radical chosen from o -QN (R) -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R) ₂ o -QN (R) ₂ ο -QN ⁺ (R) ₃ A' ο -QN ⁺ H ( R) ₂ A 'o -QN ⁺ H ₂ (R) A · o -QN (R ^{, 1} ) -CH2-CH2-N ⁺ RH2A', each Q representing a chemical bond, -CH ₂ -, -CHz-CHz -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH2CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ - ,

R representing identical or different radicals originating from the group of -H, -phenyl, -benzyte, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph radicals, C-i20 alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , - € H (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH2CH ₂ H ₃₁ CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH3, -C (CH ₃ ) _3i and A representing an anion which is preferably chosen from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

The agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino functional silicone of the formula (Silla) (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O-Si (CH3) ₂ ] _n [OSi (CH ₃ ) ] _m -OSi (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-lla),

I

CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂ in which m and n are numbers the sum of which (m + n) is equal to a value between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, n being preferably equal to a value ranging from 0 to 1 999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m being preferably equal to a value ranging from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are designated under the name of Trimethylsilylamodimethicone according to the INCI nomenclature.

The agents particularly preferred according to the invention are also those which contain an aminofunctional silicone of the formula (Si-llb)

R- [Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -O] _n i [Si (R) -O] _ÎT! - [Si (CH3) ₂ ] n2-R (Si-llb),

I

CH ₂ ) 3NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH2 in which R represents -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a group -CH ₃ and m, n1 as well as n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is equal at a value between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) being preferably equal to a value between 0 and 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m being preferably equal to a value ranging from 1 to 2,000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are designated under the name of Amodimethicone according to the INCI nomenclature.

Independently of the aminofunctional silicones used, the preferred agents according to the invention are those which contain an aminofunctional silicone whose number of amines is greater than 0.25 meq / g, preferably greater than 0.3 meq / g and in particular greater at 0.4 meq / g. The number of amines corresponds to the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the aminofunctional silicone. It can be calculated by titration and also indicated in the mg KOH / g unit.

The preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - relative to their weight - from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 1 to 5% by weight of aminofunctional silicone (s).

In a particularly preferred manner, your agents according to the invention contain an aminofunctional silicone (s) with a hydroxy terminal group (s). Certain specific aminofunctional silicones having a hydroxy terminal group (s) have been found to be particularly suitable in the agents according to the invention. These are described below.

The preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, relative to their weight, from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 0, 5 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight of at least one silicone of the following formula (Si-III)

(Si-lll) m

in which

- m and n represent numbers which are chosen such that the sum (n + m) is equal to a value in the range from 1 to 1000,

- n represents a number in the range from 0 to 999 and m is a number in the range from 1 to 1000, ~ R1, R2 and R3, which are the same or different, represent a hydroxy group or an alkoxy group C1-4,

- at least one of the groups from R1 to R3 representing a hydroxy group;

The other preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, relative to their weight, from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 0 , 5 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight of at least one silicone of the following formula (Si-IV)

gh ₃

-O - If-. (ÇH ₂ ) ₃

NH (ÇH ₂ ) ₂

((Si-IV) in which

- p and q represent numbers which are chosen so that the sum (p + q) is equal to a value in the range from 1 to 1000,

- p represents a number in the range from 0 to 999 and q is a number in the range from 1 to 1000,

- R1 and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, at least one of the groups from R1 to R2 representing a hydroxy group.

The silicones of the formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV) are differentiated by the grouping at the level of the atom Si which supports the nitrogen group: in the formula (Si-III) R2 represents a hydroxy group or an alkoxy group in C1-4, while the radical in the formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group. The individual groupings If indicated by the indices m and n or p and q must not be in blocks, the individual units can rather be distributed statistically, i.e. it is not compulsory that each group R1-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ are linked to a group - ”[O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] in the formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV).

In the context of the process according to the invention, your pretreatment agents which contain at least one silicone of formula (Si-V) have been shown to be particularly effective with regard to the desired effects:

CH ₃ ch ₃ ch ₃

A-4-sr ^o 4 + -si-o --- y ..... Si-O ..... dd-D

ch ₃ <ch ₃ hn ' (If V), in which A represents Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ , an -OH group, -O-Si (CH ₃ ) _3! -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH, -O-

D represents a group -H, -Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , —Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH _: -S! (CH ₃ ) 2.OCH ₃ , b, n and c represent whole numbers between 0 and 1 000, provided that

- n> 0etb + c> 0

- at least one of the conditions A ~ -OH or D = -H is fulfilled.

The preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are therefore those which contain - relative to their weight - from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 7.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight of at least one silicone of the formula (Si-

in which

(If V),

A represents a group -OH, -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 2OH, -OSi (CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ ,

D represents a group -H, - ~ Si (CH3) ₃ , --- Si (CH3) 2OH, -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ , b, n and c represent whole numbers between 0 and 1000, provided that

- n> 0etb + c> 0

- at least one of the conditions A = -OH or D = -H is fulfilled.

In the above formula (Si-V), the individual siloxane units comprising the indices b, c and n are statistically distributed, that is to say that it does not necessarily have to be block copolymers.

Other particularly suitable silicones are 4morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones. Particularly preferred are the hair treatment agents according to the invention which contain, relative to their weight, from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 at 7.5% by weight and in particular from 1 to 5% by weight of at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (Si-V), (i) via an Si) or D (linked via a O),

B represents a group -OH, -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3, -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH, -OSi (CH ₃ ) 2OCH ₃ ,

D represents a group -H, -Si (CH ₃ ) 3, ~ Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH, -Si (CH ₃ ) 2OCH _3i a, b and c represent whole numbers between 0 and 1000, provided that a + b + c> 0 m, n and o represent whole numbers between 1 and 1000, provided that at least one of the conditions B - -OH or D = ~ H is fulfilled.

The structural formula (Si-VI) must specify that the siloxane groups n and o do not necessarily have to be directly linked to a terminal group B or D. On the contrary, a> 0 or b> 0 is valid in the preferred formulas (Si -VI) as well as a> 0 and b> 0 is valid in your particularly preferred formulas (SiVI), that is to say that the terminal group B or D is preferably linked to a dimethylsiloxy group. Even in the formula (Si-VI), the siloxane units a, b, c, n and o are preferably distributed statistically.

The silicones used according to the invention and represented by the formula (Si-VI) can end with a trimethylsilyl (D or B = -Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ ), but also with a divalent or monovalent dimethylsilylhydroxy or else with a dimethylsilylmethoxy . In the context of the present invention, the particularly preferred silicones used are chosen from silicones in the

formulas in which B = -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH and D - -If (CH ₃ ) ₃ B = -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH and D = -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH B = - O-SI (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH and D = -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ B - -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ and D = -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH B = ..- O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ and D = -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH. These silicones improve significantly the properties of treated hair

with the agents according to the invention; the protection during an oxidizing treatment is in particular considerably reinforced.

In the formula (Si-VI), the radical A can also represent

- a structura (i) motif linked via an -O- or

- a polymer or oligomer radical linked by an -O- containing structural units of formula (i)

- or an -OH.

The formula (Si-VI) is thus specified in one of the formulas (Si-VIa), (Si-Vlb) or (Si-VIc):

ch ₃

T ja (Si-Vlb)

'2

Regardless of the type of aminofunctional silicone (s) comprising a hydroxy terminal group (s) used, the agents according to the invention preferably contain the silicone (s) under emulsion form, particularly preferably in the form of a microemulsion.

It has been demonstrated that the action of the silicones used in the agents according to the invention could be further improved if certain nonionic components were also used in the agents. In addition, these non-ionic components have positive effects on the storage stability of the agent. The nonionic components which are particularly suitable in this case are decanol, undecanol, dodecanol, tridecanol ethoxylates, etc. The ethoxylated tridecanols, which are preferably incorporated into the agents according to the invention, have proved to be particularly suitable. The particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - relative to their weight - from 0.00001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 3.5% by weight, in a particularly preferred manner from 0.001 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of branched ethoxylated tridecanol (INCI name: Trideceth-5) or o- iso-tridecyl-w-hydroxypolyglycolether (INCI name: Trideceth-10) or their mixtures.

The hair treatment agents preferably contain the active ingredients described above in a cosmetically acceptable carrier. By this, in the context of the invention, it is preferred to mean an aqueous or hydroalcoholic support.

Preferably, the cosmetic support contains at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, particularly preferably at least 70% by weight and very particularly preferably at least 75% by weight of water.

The cosmetic support can also contain from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 30% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight of at least one alcohol.

Suitable alcohols are, for example, ethanol, ethyldiglycol, propane-law, te propan-2-ol, isopropanol, propane-1,2-diol, glycerol, te diglycerol, triglycerol, te butane -1-ol, te butane-2-ol, butane-1,2-ol, butane-1,3-ol, pentane-1-ol, te pentane-2-ol, 1,2-pentanediol , te 1,5-pentanedioi, hexane-1 ol, hexane-2-ol, hexane-1,2-diol, hexane-1,6-diol, tes polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, te sorbitan, benzyl alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols.

Water-soluble alcohols are particularly preferred. Especially preferred are ethanol, te 1,2 ~ propylene glycol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures of these alcohols.

For a very good skin tolerance (at the scalp) of the hair treatment agents according to the invention, it is advantageous that they have a slightly acidic pH.

It has been found that the agents according to the invention having a pH in the range of

4.2 to 5.8 were very mild and had particularly good skin tolerance.

In a first preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention thus preferably have a pH of a value in the range from 4.2 to 5.8, more preferably from 4.25 to 5.6, particularly preferably from 4.3 to 5.5, exceptionally preferably from 4.35 to 5.4 and very particularly preferably from 4.4 to 5.3.

The hair treatment agents according to the invention may contain vegetable oils, vegetable butters and / or vegetable waxes. These vegetable oily components improve the possibilities of combing and styling the hair, and improve the shine.

Natural oils and / or (vegetable) butters, which generally contain triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides, are among these suitable vegetable oily components.

Favorite natural oils are coconut oil, almond oil (sweet), walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil , avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, olive oil evening primrose, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, marula oil, lemon grass oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil , grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, squash seed oil, oil mallow, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and / or shea butter .

Preferably can be used as suitable vegetable or natural waxes carnauba wax, beeswax and / or candelilla wax.

The particularly preferred vegetable oily components are almond oil (sweet), peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and / or shea butter.

Especially preferred are apricot kernel oil, argan oil, olive oil and / or jojoba oil.

In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably contain coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel, apricot kernel oil argan oil, avocado oil, Tea Tree Oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel, marula oil, mourning oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, seed oil amaranth, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, d u cocoa butter and / or shea butter.

In this embodiment, your hair treatment agents according to the invention are particularly preferred, containing almond oil (sweet), peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and / or shea butter.

The proportion by weight of at least one vegetable oil, vegetable butter and / or minimum vegetable wax in the total weight of the hair treatment agent according to the invention is preferably from 0.02 to 2.50% by weight, more preferably from 0.03 to 2.00% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.04 to 1.50% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 1.00% by weight.

In addition to the optional and essential components mentioned above, in order to further improve your care properties for the agents, the hair treatment agents according to the invention may contain, in another preferred embodiment, at least one other active principle of hair conditioning which may be chosen from the group of

- protein hydrolysates,

- vitamins,

- plant extracts and / or

- glycerols.

Mixtures of products obtainable by acid, alkaline or enzymatic catalysis of proteins are understood as suitable protein hydrolysates.

Protein hydrolysates of plant, animal and / or marine origin can be used.

Free from animal protein hydrolysates are elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also exist as salts. Such products are for example sold under the trade names Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gélatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).

Preferred plant protein hydrolysates are, for example, soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat hydrolysates. Such products are for example sold under the trade names Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex) and Crotein® (Croda). The cationic protein hydrolysates can also be used, the basic protein hydrolyzate can be of animal origin, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plant origin, for example from wheat, corn , rice, potato, soy or almonds, of marine origin, for example derived from collagen from fish or algae, or derived from protein hydrolysates derived from biotechnology. Protein hydrolysates based on cationic derivatives can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical hydrolysis, in particular alkaline or acid, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or by a combination of the two types of hydrolysis. Protein hydrolysis generally results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of about 100 Da to several thousand Da. The cationic protein hydrolysates are those whose basic protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 Da, preferably 250 to 5,000 Da. In addition, cationic protein hydrolysates are understood to mean quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization of protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro) halides -npropyle) ammonium. In addition, cationic protein hydrolysates can also be further processed into derivatives. Typical examples of hydrolysates and derivatives of cationic proteins are the following products available commercially and known under the following INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen,

Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silkpropyl Hydrolyzed Protein, Cocodimonium Protein hydroxypropyl arginine lauryl / myristyl Ether HCl, hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed conchiolin Protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein , Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen , Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79

Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

The proportion by weight of the protein hydrolyzate (s) in the total weight of the hair treatment agents is preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.025 to 3% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight.

Regardless of the source (plant, animal, marine, etc.), protein hydrolysates contain, depending on the degree of hydrolysis, amino acids, oligopeptides and, where appropriate, individual polypeptides.

By appropriate vitamins, it is preferred to mean the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, as well as their derivatives:

* Vitamin A: the group of substances called vitamin A includes the retinol (vitamin Af) as well as the 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). Β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. For example, the vitamin A acid and its esters, the vitamin A aldehyde as well as the vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate can be mentioned as a component of vitamin A.

• Vitamin B: belong among others to the group of vitamin B or to the vitamin B complex> vitamin Bi (thiamine)> vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)> vitamin B ₃ . The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (macinamide) are often presented under these names.

> vitamin Β _δ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). In this group, panthenol is used in a preferred manner. The panthenol derivatives which can be used are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone and also your cationic derivatives of panthenol. Mention may, for example, be made as individual representatives: panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and cationic derivatives of panthenol.

> vitamin Β _δ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

* Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

* Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol).

* Vitamin F: the term "vitamin F" generally denotes essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

* Vitamin H: The term vitamin H designates the acid compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-dî-imidazoi-4-valérique, however commonly called "biotin".

Particularly preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are those from groups A, B, E and H. Particular preference is given to nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol.

The proportion by weight of the vitamin (s), vitamin derivative (s) and / or vitamin precursor (s) in the total weight of the hair treatment agents according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight.

By appropriate plant extracts, we mean extracts that can be produced from all parts of a plant. Usually these extracts are obtained by extracting the whole plant. In certain cases, it may however also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from the flowers and / or leaves of the plant. Especially suitable are extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden flowers, lychee, d , aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon , orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mauve, mourning, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, bugrane, coltsfoot, coltsfoot, marshmallow, ginseng, ginger root, Echinacea purpurea, OIea europea, Boerhavia Diffusa roots, Foeniculum vulgaris and Apim graveolens.

The following are particularly preferred for use in the compositions according to the invention: extracts of green tea, nettle, witch hazel, chamomile, aloe vera, ginseng, Echinacea purpurea, OIea europea and / or from roots of Boerhavia Diffusa.

In order to produce said plant extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as the extractant. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol are preferred in this respect, particularly polyvalent alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, as much as a single extractant as mixed with some water. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a 1:10 to 10: 1 ratio have been found to be particularly suitable.

Plant extracts can be used in both pure and diluted form. If used in a diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of the active substance and the extractant or mixture of extractants used as a solvent during their production. The plant extracts can be used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention (based on the total weight of the agents) preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight.

Glycerol can be added separately in your cleaning and hair care agents in an amount of up to 10% by weight (based on the total weight of the agent). It can also be one of the components of the aforementioned hydroalcoholic support.

Π it has been found that your hair treatment agents according to the invention are also suitable for use as an anti-dandruff preparation.

The total weight of the dandruff agents in the total weight of the hair treatment agents according to the invention may preferably be 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.025 to 7.5% by weight, so particularly preferred from 0.05 to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.075 to 3% by weight.

The suitable anti-dandruff active principles can be chosen from piroctone olamine, climbazol, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulphide, tar preparations, derivatives of undecylenic acid, extracts of roots of burdock, poplar, nettle, nutshell, birch, willow bark, rosemary and / or arnica.

Preferred are climbazol, zinc pyrithione and piroctone olamine.

Other active principles, adjuvants and additives which may preferably be contained in your hair treatment agents according to the invention are for example:

- humectants,

- perfumes,

- UV filters,

- thickening agents such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, your alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, carob gum, seed gums flax, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, for example methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellutose and carboxymethyloelulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such as bentonite or entirely synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol, soaps of Ca, Mg or Zn,

- structuring agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

- your dimethylisosorbides,

- your cyclodextrins,

active ingredients improving the fibrous structure, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, and lactose,

- dyes for coloring the agent,

- active ingredients such as bisabolol and / or aantantoin,

- complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

- ceramides. The term "ceramides" means n-acylsphingosine (sphingosine fatty acid amides) or the synthetic analogues of these lipids (called pseudo-ceramides),

- propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, te N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, te CO ₂ and air,

- Antioxidants,

- other viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCI).

The agents according to the invention are preferably so-called rinsed products, that is to say that they are rinsed again from the hair after a certain time of action. This action time is preferably less than an hour, that is to say that the consumer preferably does not leave your products in the hair until their next wash.

Another object of the present invention is therefore a hair treatment method, during which an agent according to the invention is applied to damp hair, acts there for 30 to 300 seconds, then is rinsed off.

The agents according to the invention lead to a marked strengthening of the internal and external capillary structure.

Another object of the present invention is therefore the use of mixtures composed of

a) methionine,

b) methionylmethionine, to strengthen the internal capillary structure and improve the capillary conditioning action of the hair treatment agents.

By structural reinforcement within the meaning of the invention means a reduction in damage to the keratin fibers due to the most diverse influences. In this respect, the restoration of natural resistance plays an essential role. The restructured fibers are characterized, for example, by more shine, a sensation more pleasant to the touch and an increased ease of disentangling. In addition, they have better resistance and elasticity. From a physical point of view, successful structural strengthening or restructuring can be demonstrated by increasing the melting point over that of damaged fibers (DSC measures).

As regards the preferred embodiments of the process according to the invention and of the use according to the invention, what has been explained on the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Claims (10)

claims 1. Hair treatment agent containing - relative to its weight - a) from 0.0001 to 20% by weight of methionine; b) from 0.0001 to 30% by weight of methylmethionine; 2. Hair treatment agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains - relative to its weight - a total amount ranging from 0.0005 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight, so more preferred from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 2% by weight of methionine. 3. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains - relative to its weight - from 0.0005 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferred from 0.005 to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 5% by weight of methionylmethionine. 4. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the methionylmethionine is a mixture of L-methionyl-L-methionine, L-methionyl-D-methionine, D-methionyl-L-methionine and of D-methionyl-D-methionine. 5. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains - relative to its weight - from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight and in particular 0.15 to 0.8% by weight of cationic polymer (s), preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight and in particular from 0.15 to 0.8% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic cellulosic polymers and / or cationic guar derivatives. 6. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains - relative to the weight of the agent - from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, More preferably from 0.25 to 8% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 7% by weight of surfactant (s). 7. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains - relative to its weight - 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.75 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 12% by weight and in particular from 2 to 10% by weight of fatty alcohol (s). 8. Hair treatment agent according to one of claims 15 above, characterized in that it contains - relative to its weight - 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.15 to 5% by weight of silicone (s) aminofunctional (s). 20 9. Hair treatment method, characterized in that an agent according to one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to damp hair, is left to stand for 30 to 300 seconds, then is rinsed. 10. Use of mixtures composed of A) methionine, b) methionylmethiomne, to strengthen the internal capillary structure and improve the capillary conditioning action of the hair treatment agents.