FR3068890A1 - NEW COMPOSITION FOR THE SMOOTHING OF HAIR - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a novel hair smoothing composition comprising an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol and a vegetable oil, and a method of smoothing the hair using said composition.

Description

The present invention relates to a new composition for straightening hair comprising an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol and a vegetable oil, as well as a process for straightening hair using said composition.

In the hair field, hair straightening is a hairstyling technique which makes it possible to straighten the hair temporarily or over a longer period.

Consumers wishing to straighten their hair seek not only to obtain smooth hair having good hold but also to obtain a result which is durable over time by resisting in particular subsequent shampoos.

To permanently modify the shape of the hair, thermal treatments are generally used. These treatments allow a visual modification of the appearance of the hairstyle, both in terms of crimping or frizzotis as in terms of overall volume of the hair. Such treatments make it possible to achieve a smoother visual appearance, a substantial gain in shine, resistance to humidity and to heat for maintaining the hairstyle all day long.

These heat treatments are generally supplemented (or preceded) by “chemical” treatments of the hair by particular compositions.

A first complementary treatment is based on the use of compositions based on thiol reducers. These technologies require strict compliance with the application conditions recommended by suppliers, particularly in terms of quantity and break time. In addition, they may be contraindicated on excessively sensitized hair and may not be compatible with the application on the same day of other treatments such as coloring or bleaching. They are also smelly.

A second complementary treatment is based on the use of compositions based on formaldehyde (or formaldehyde) and its derivatives. The particularity of these treatments is that they are robust, perfectly compatible with all other conventional hair treatments, such as the thiolated straightening mentioned previously, the alkaline straightening, coloring or bleaching of all types, carried out before or after. They give the hair excellent discipline, very strong shine and ease of daily care. However, these products require the use of straightening iron at a temperature of 180-230 ° C which very strongly damages the hair in the short or medium term. In addition, these smoothing methods are also very long to apply because it is necessary to work strand by strand and the average overall time to smooth hair of the "Afro-Caribbean" type is 4 to 9 hours. Finally, for toxicological reasons, the use of some of these compounds is now prohibited and / or regulated.

New complementary treatments have thus been developed in order to facilitate the smoothing process and to avoid the use of these toxic substances which are harmful to the health of the users.

Thus, international patent application WO 2011/104282 describes the use of compositions based on acids, in particular glyoxylic acid. This application describes in particular a process for semi-permanent straightening of the hair, consisting in applying an alpha-ketoacid solution to the hair for 15 to 120 minutes, then drying and finally straightening with an iron, at a temperature of approximately 200 °. C, the hair. The alphaketoacid used is preferably glyoxylic acid.

French patent application FR 3030241 describes a hair straightening process by applying a composition comprising an amino acid and a polyol followed by a straightening step using a straightening iron at a temperature of at least 100 ° C.

However, it has been found that glyoxylic acid may not be well tolerated, especially when the scalp is sensitive and / or irritated. Its volatility, amplified by the use of heat from iron, is also a problem.

In addition, all of the recently developed complementary treatments are ultimately of limited effectiveness and all require the use of a straightening iron at high temperature, which deteriorates the hair, in particular causing it to break.

Thus, at the date of the present invention, it remains necessary to develop a composition allowing the straightening of the hair effectively and lastingly under conditions of easy application without deteriorating the quality of the hair.

Now, a composition has now been found which makes hair straightening efficient and lasting, according to an easy application process while preserving the quality of the hair.

The present invention therefore relates to a composition for straightening hair comprising:

- an amino acid;

- a protein;

- an alcohol; and

- a vegetable oil.

The composition according to the present invention allows an effective and lasting straightening of the hair, according to an easier application process and preserving the quality of the hair, in particular due to the absence of the use of straightening iron.

In the context of the present invention:

- "Smoothing" means any treatment allowing to flatten or straighten the hair in order to give it a smooth apparent surface;

- The term "amino acid" means any amino acid known to a person skilled in the art, in particular the amino acids of general formula (I) or (II) below

(D (II) in which • R represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C ₅ -alkyl group optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, amino; -C (O) -OH; -S (O) ₂ -OH; -C (O) -O ', M +; -S (O) ₂ -O', M +;

• M + representing a cationic counter ion such as alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium;

• n is 0 yes;

as well as their betaine forms; their optical isomers; their solvates such as hydrates, and their salts, acid or base, organic or inorganic;

said amino acids possibly being grafted on a heteromolecule which can be a silicone, a glucidic compound, a fatty acid or derivative, a surfactant of an anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric character;

- “vegetable oil” means any fatty substance extracted from an oleaginous plant, that is to say a plant whose seeds, nuts or fruits contain lipids;

- “protein” means any protein, heteroprotein or protein derivative such as a grafted protein on a heteromolecule which may be a silicone, a glucidic compound, a fatty acid or derivative, a surfactant of anionic, cationic, non- ionic or amphoteric, of variable size and shape, formed by one or more chain (s) charged (s) in amino acids and connected (S) by peptide bonds. Preferably, the protein is of tertiary or quaternary structure;

- “C _x -C _y -alkyl” means a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, and comprising from x to y carbon atoms;

- “alcohol” means any linear or branched carbon chain containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms substituted by a hydroxyl group, an amino alcohol, an aldol or a ketol. Preferably, “alcohol” designates any linear or branched compound of the formula C _n H ₂ n + iOH in which n is an integer between 1 and 10; and

- The term "polyol" means any Ci-Ci _O -alkyl group substituted by at least two hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the term “polyol” means any compound chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol or sorbitol.

In addition, in the context of the present invention, and unless otherwise stated, the proportions expressed in% correspond to mass percentages relative to the total weight of the entity considered.

The composition according to the present invention therefore contains an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol and a vegetable oil. Preferably, the subject of the present invention is a composition as described above having the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination:

- the amino acid is a proteinogenic amino acid or one of its salts, acid or base, organic or mineral. More preferably, the amino acid is chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, leucine, isoleucine, methionine, N- phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, glycine, alanine, serine, beta alanine, taurine, lysine and arginine or one of their salts, acid or base, organic or mineral. Most preferably, the amino acid is chosen from glutamic acid, cysteine and arginine;

- the protein is chosen from optionally hydrolyzed creatine, optionally hydrolyzed keratin, optionally hydrolyzed wheat protein, optionally hydrolyzed silk protein, optionally hydrolyzed soy protein, optionally hydrolyzed collagen, optionally hydrolyzed elastin, protein optionally hydrolyzed pea, optionally hydrolyzed rice protein, optionally hydrolyzed conchiolin protein and optionally hydrolyzed whey protein. Most preferably, the protein is chosen from creatine, keratin, optionally hydrolyzed wheat protein, optionally hydrolyzed silk protein and optionally hydrolyzed soy protein.

- The alcohol is chosen from butanol, isopropanol and ethanol. More preferably, the alcohol is chosen as being ethanol;

- vegetable oil contains at least 1% sulfur or sulfur amino acids. More preferably, the vegetable oil is chosen from sweet almond oil, olive oil, argan oil, Haarlem oil, Babassu oil, broccoli, avocado oil, linseed oil, apricot oil, cucumber oil, cumin oil, brazil nut oil, grape seed oil, shea olein, sesame oil and tomato oil. Very preferably, the vegetable oil is chosen as being broccoli oil or Haarlem oil;

- The composition also contains a polyol; and or

- The composition also contains pigments or dyes to obtain hair coloring.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a single composition or in the form of a kit comprising two, three or four separate compositions each containing one or more of the ingredients of the composition according to the present invention. Preferably, the present invention also relates to a kit useful for straightening hair comprising:

- On the one hand, a composition containing the amino acid as defined above and the protein as defined above; and

- On the other hand, a composition containing alcohol as defined above and vegetable oil as defined above.

Preferably, the subject of the present invention is a kit as described above having the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination:

the kit contains from 50% to 70% of the composition comprising the amino acid and the protein and from 30% to 50% of the composition comprising the alcohol and the vegetable oil;

the composition containing the amino acid and the protein contains from 0.1% to 20% of amino acid as defined above, preferably from 0.1% to 5% of amino acid as defined above, preferably further from 0.1% to 1% of amino acid as defined above;

the composition containing the amino acid and the protein contains from 0.1% to 20% of protein as defined above, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% of protein as defined above, completely preferred from 0.1% to 2% protein as defined above;

- The composition containing the amino acid and the protein is in the form of cream, gel, oil in water or water in oil emulsion, hair lotion or shampoo. More preferably, the composition containing the amino acid and the protein is in the form of a cream;

- The composition containing alcohol and vegetable oil is in the form of cream, gel, oil in water or water in oil emulsion, two-phase lotion or shampoo. More preferably, the composition containing alcohol and vegetable oil is in the form of a two-phase lotion;

the composition containing the alcohol and the vegetable oil contains from 1% to 50% of alcohol as defined above, more preferably from 10% to 50% of alcohol as defined above, in a completely preferred manner from 10% to 30% alcohol as defined above;

the composition containing the alcohol and the vegetable oil contains from 50% to 95% of vegetable oil as defined above, more preferably from 50% to 80% of vegetable oil as defined above, so as to preferred fact from 70% to 80% vegetable oil as defined above;

- The composition containing alcohol and vegetable oil additionally contains a polyol; and or

- pigments or dyes for hair coloring are incorporated into the preparation containing amino acids and proteins or into a complementary preparation.

The composition according to the present invention, whether it is in kit form or not, can be applied according to any process known to a person skilled in the art. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is applied according to the method comprising the following stages:

- When the composition is in the form of a kit as described above, mix the composition comprising the amino acid and the protein as defined above and the composition comprising the alcohol and the vegetable oil as defined above for the purpose of obtaining the composition according to the present invention;

- apply the product obtained (i.e. the composition according to the present invention) strands by strands from root to tip

- leave the product to act for a period which can vary from 15 minutes to 45 minutes;

- dry the hair, preferably with hot air, for example using a blow dryer;

- rinse the hair with water; and

- styling with a blow dryer.

The method according to the present invention can be easily implemented and allows effective and lasting straightening of the hair without the use of a straightening iron, thus preserving the quality of the hair.

The method according to the present invention can also be supplemented by:

the application of a shampoo prior to the application of the composition according to the invention;

- A partial pre-drying of the hair before the application of the composition according to the invention; and or

- the application of a capillary “mask” type composition after rinsing with water and before styling the hair.

The present invention is illustrated in a nonlimiting manner by the following examples.

Example 1 - Kit according to the invention

A kit containing a smoothing composition in the form of a cream comprising an amino acid and a protein and a biphasic activator in the form of a biphasic lotion comprising an alcohol and a vegetable oil, the compositions of which are reported respectively in Tables 1 and 2 below is prepared.

ingredients Quantity (% w / w) Glutamic acid 0.1 Cysteine HCl 0.3 arginine 0.1 creatine 0.05 Hydrolyzed wheat protein 0.3 Hydrolyzed soy protein 0.3 Hydrolyzed keratin 0.3 Polyquaternium 7 0.25 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 0.25 Perfume 0.3 phenoxyethanol 0.3 Amisol Trio ™ phospholipids Soybean oil glycine glycolipids Soy glycine sterol 0.2 Ascorbic acid 0.05 Cetearyl alcohol 4 Cetrimonium chloride 2 Ceteareth20 0.3 Glycerin 0.25 Ethylhexylpalmitate 0.25 Triticum vulgare (wheat germ oil) 0.25 Orbignya oleifera (Babassu seed oil) 0.25 Lactic acid 0.05 Citric acid 0.05 Ceramide-3 0.05 BHT 0.05 PEG 90 M 0.1 Water 89.35

Table 1 - Smoothing composition

ingredients Quantity (% w / w) Broccoli oil 75 Ethanol 20 Glycerin 2.5 Water 2.5

Table 2-Biphasic activator

Example 2 - Smoothing test

2.1 - Smoothing process

The kit described in example 1 above is used to smooth an afro type of hair, very weakened by old hair straighteners with thio acid until a significant breakage is obtained over the entire part of the plate. preventing any use of a strong reducing agent product (Figure 1). A microscope analysis of a hair before treatment also reveals a clear corrosion of the internal structure (Figure 2).

The application of the composition according to the invention is carried out according to the following protocol.

Step 1: Hair preparation

A double shampoo is carried out using a preparative shampoo.

Step 2: Preparation of the composition according to the invention

The smoothing composition and the two-phase activator of Example 1 are mixed in a dilution ratio of the smoothing composition / two-phase activator of 60/40.

Step 3: Application of the composition according to the invention

We untangle and pre-dry the hair to 70% using a blow dryer.

The composition according to the invention is applied strands by strands from root to tip. Each lock is kneaded and combed in order to distribute the product well.

The hair is then covered with a cellophane and the composition is left to act for 30 minutes.

Step 4: Drying

The hair is then dried in hot air with a blow dryer, directing the breath of air from root to tip to descend the cuticle. Wicks 3 cm wide are selected and kept perpendicular to the scalp to be 100% dried.

Step 5: Rinsing

The hair is then allowed to cool and the hair is rinsed with water. Then apply a classic "mask" composition and leave to act for 5 minutes before rinsing the hair again with water.

Step 6: Smoothing

The hair is then styled by hand with a blow dryer.

2.2 - Results obtained

We note that during straightening, the hair straightens directly and is put in place without the need to use a straightening iron.

A smooth hair is thus obtained simply in contact with the heat of the dryer, without resorting to the pulling effect or intense heat of the straightening iron. The volume is under control and there is a significant reconstruction effect of this fiber which was previously sensitized (Figure 3). The analysis under a microscope of a hair after treatment also reveals the presence of smoothing over the entire surface of the fiber as well as an improvement in the internal structure compared to the hair before treatment (Figure 4).

An intense shine is observed and the hair has found a significant fluidity and lightness.

In addition, the effects observed are lasting (around three months).

Claims (14)

1. Composition for straightening hair comprising: - an amino acid; - a protein; - an alcohol; and - a vegetable oil. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the amino acid is a proteinogenic amino acid or one of its salts, acid or base, organic or inorganic. 3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the amino acid is chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, leucine, l isoleucine, methionine, Nphenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, glycine, alanine, serine, beta alanine, taurine, lysine and l ' arginine or one of their salts, acid or base, organic or mineral. 4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the protein is chosen from optionally hydrolyzed creatine, optionally hydrolyzed keratin, optionally hydrolyzed wheat protein, optionally hydrolyzed silk protein, protein from optionally hydrolyzed soybeans, optionally hydrolyzed collagen, optionally hydrolyzed elastin, optionally hydrolyzed pea protein, optionally hydrolyzed rice protein, optionally hydrolyzed conchiolin protein and optionally hydrolyzed whey protein. 5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the protein is chosen from creatine, keratin, optionally hydrolyzed wheat protein, optionally hydrolyzed silk protein and optionally hydrolyzed soy protein. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the alcohol is chosen from butanol, isopropanol and ethanol. 7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the alcohol is ethanol. 8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7 above, characterized in that the vegetable oil is chosen from sweet almond oil, olive oil, argan oil, oil from Haarlem, Babassu oil, broccoli oil, Avocado oil, Linseed oil, apricot oil, cucumber oil, black cumin oil, Brazil nut oil, grape seed oil, shea olein, sesame oil and tomato oil. 9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the vegetable oil is broccoli oil. 10. Kit useful for straightening hair comprising: - On the one hand, a composition containing the amino acid according to one of claims 1 to 3, and the protein according to one of claims 1, 4 or 5; and - on the other hand, a composition containing the alcohol according to one of claims 1, 6 or 7, and the vegetable oil according to one of claims 1, 8 or 9. 11. Kit according to claim 10, characterized in that it contains from 50% to 70% of the composition comprising the amino acid and the protein and from 30% to 50% of the composition comprising the alcohol and the oil vegetable. 12. Kit according to claim 10 or 11, characterized in that the composition containing the amino acid and the protein is in the form of a cream, gel, oil in water or water in oil emulsion, hair lotion or of shampoo. 13. Kit according to any one of claims 10 to 12, characterized in that the composition containing the alcohol and the vegetable oil is in the form of a cream, gel, oil in water or water in oil emulsion , two-phase lotion or shampoo. 14. Hair straightening process comprising the following steps: - When the composition is in the form of a kit according to one of claims 10 to 13, mix the composition comprising the amino acid and the protein and the composition comprising the alcohol and the vegetable oil; - apply the product obtained strands by strands from root to tip - leave the product to act for a period which can vary from 15 minutes to 45 minutes; - dry one's hair ; - rinse the hair with water; and 5 - styling with a blow dryer.