FR3059230B1 - SOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POWDER AND A CATIONIC POLYMER - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a solid composition comprising (i) one or more powders, and (ii) one or more cationic polymers, and its use for styling hair.

Description

Solid composition comprising a powder and a cationic polymer

The present invention relates to a solid composition comprising at least one powder and at least one cationic polymer, its manufacturing method, its use for shaping keratinous fibers and a cosmetic treatment method using this composition.

In the field of the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers, such as the hair, and more particularly in the field of styling and hair care, hair styling powders have existed for some years, either in the form of loose powder or in the form of 'aerosol. By being deposited on the surface of the hair, they create roughnesses and allow to obtain a detachment of the roots and the volume, to bring texture and body to the hair as well as a repositionable hold of fast way without wetting the hair.

The powders used may be of mineral origin, organic or synthetic but are usually of a mineral nature.

In practice, the free powders distributed in salt or aerosol are not entirely satisfactory and can cause discomfort because of their volatile and nano-scale nature. They have a tendency to matify the hair and have a crunchy touch that is not very cosmetic. They are more difficult to eliminate with a shampoo.

There is therefore a need to develop new compositions to overcome the aforementioned drawbacks.

The Applicant has now discovered that the combination of at least one powder with at least one cationic polymer as binder used to offer improved use qualities such as in particular ease of handling, lower volatility, low friability, especially when the composition according to the invention is in the form of compacted powder, and styling properties such as a volume and mass to the hair, a detachment of the roots, while being easily removed with a shampoo.

In addition, it provides a more cosmetic feel, namely softer, more homogeneous and less crunchy on the hair, compared to the products used so far. The invention therefore relates to a solid composition comprising: (i) one or more powders, and (ii) one or more cationic polymers.

By "solid" composition is meant a composition which has a hardness such that it does not flow under its own weight, as opposed to so-called fluid compositions, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm). of Hg).

This composition is preferably in a compacted form.

A compacted powder refers more particularly to a powder pressed using a manual or mechanical press.

The present invention also relates to a process for preparing this composition, preferably in the form of a compacted powder.

Another subject of the invention consists of a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers, such as the hair, and more particularly of shaping and / or conditioning of the hair, comprising the use of the composition according to the invention. 'invention. The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for shaping and / or conditioning keratinous fibers, especially human fibers, such as the hair. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follows.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field, especially in the expressions "between" and "from ... to ...". The expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

According to the invention, the solid composition comprises: (i) one or more powders, and (ii) one or more cationic polymers.

The composition according to the invention comprises, as the first essential ingredient, one or more powders.

Preferably, the powder may be styling.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair styling powder" means a powder having an aptitude for shaping the hair or for the durability of this shaping. The aptitude for shaping or durability of the shaping of the powder may notably be due to its chemical nature and / or its geometrical shape and / or its setting configuration during the deposition on the keratin fiber, Indeed , the irregularities created on the surface of the hair favor the attachment of the fibers between them.

The powder may be of any form such as lamellar, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, rhombohedral or tetragonal). In a preferred embodiment, the powders are not spherical.

The average number-size of the powder may range from 0.001 to 50 μm, more preferably from 0.002 to 40 μm, and still more preferably from 0.003 to 35 μm.

This average size in number corresponds to the size measured from the statistical distribution of particle sizes for half the total number of particles. The latter is called D50.

In addition, the average number size of these particles can be measured as a mean value by an optical microscope observation method, an electron microscope, or a particle size analyzer using laser diffraction. .

In the case where the particles do not have a spherical shape, their number average size can be determined in the form of a longest diameter average, the shortest or the thickness.

Said powder may be mineral or organic, preferably mineral. It may especially be a filler, a pigment or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the powder is a filler.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filler" is understood to mean natural or synthetic, white or colorless particles, which are in any form and which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

The fillers may be organic or inorganic, and of any shape such as lamellar, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, rhombohedral or tetragonal). In a preferred embodiment, the charges are not spherical.

By "pigment" in the sense of the present invention is meant organic or mineral particles, white or colored, of any form, which are insoluble in the physiological medium and which gives a color to the composition.

The term "mineral" includes chemical compounds that are inorganic, natural or synthetic. The mineral substances are mainly in a crystalline form. By way of examples of mineral or inorganic powder, mention may be made in particular of: fillers such as carbonates, oxides and metal sulphates, such as those of alkaline earth metals, aluminum, gallium and indium; silicates; modified or unmodified silicas; sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, talc, natural or synthetic mica, especially white mica, gold mica, red mica, black mica, mica-lithium oxide; calcium phosphate, silicic acid, silicic anhydride, silicon carbide, metal salts of tungstic acid, magnesium aluminate, bentonite, zeolites, smectite, hydroxyapatite, powder ceramic, boron nitride, and glass or ceramic microcapsules; specific composite fillers such as those marketed under the names Excel Mica, Excel Pearl and La Vie powder by the company Miyoshi Kasei, Inc.; white pigments such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide; colored pigments such as red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, inorganic blue pigments, carbon black, lower titanium oxides,, manganese violet, cobalt violet, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder ; pearlescent pigments such as bismuth oxychloride, mica / titanium, pearl essence, powder prepared by coating synthetic mica with titanium dioxide, powder prepared by coating silica flakes with titanium dioxide , which is available under the trademark "Metashine" from Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd., the powder prepared by coating alumina flakes with tin oxide and titanium dioxide, the powder prepared by coating of aluminum flakes with titanium dioxide, the powder prepared by coating copper flakes with silica, sold by Eckert Inc. USA, the powder prepared by coating bronze flakes with silica, and the powder prepared by coating aluminum flakes with silica; ultrafine powders having an average particle size of less than 0.1 μm, such as ultrafine titanium dioxide, ultrafine zinc oxide, ultrafine iron oxide, and ultrafine cerium oxide; other powders such as the luminescent powder sold under the trade mark "Luminova Sériés" by Mitsui & Co., Ltd., aluminum powder, aluminum powder, stainless steel powder, tourmaline powder, and amber powder; and - one of their mixtures.

Examples of organic powder are wool powder, polyamide powder (Nylon® or Arkema's Orgasol®), polyester powder, polyethylene powder, polypropylene powder, polystyrene powder, polyurethane powder , benzoguanamine powder, polymethyl benzoguanamine powder, tetrafluoroethylene powder, poly (methyl methacrylate) powder, cellulose powder, silk powder, silicone powder, silicone rubber powder, synthetic resin powders such as a styrene / acrylate copolymer, a divinylbenzene / styrene copolymer, a vinyl resin, a urea resin, a phenolic resin, a fluororesin, tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), a silicone resin, a acrylic resin, a melamine resin, an epoxy resin, and a polycarbonate resin, polymeric hollow microspheres, such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acryloni trile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrop® from Dow Corning), silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example), particles formed of elastomers polyorganosiloxane, microcrystalline fiber powder, starch powder, acylated lysine powder, poly-3-alanine, lauryllysine, (long-chain alkyl) phosphate metal salt powder, metallic soap powder , the yellow pigments of the Color Index (CI), the orange pigments of CI and the pigments derived from tar prepared in the form of lacquer, and the dyes naturally existing prepared in the form of lacquer.

Tar derived dyes include, for example, Red No.3, Red No.10, Red No.106, Red No.201, Red No.202, Red No.204, Red No.205, Red No. 220, Red No.226, Red No.227, Red No.228, Red No.230, Red No.401, Red No. 505, Yellow No.4, Yellow

No.5, Yellow No.202, Yellow No.203, Blue No.204, Yellow No.401, Blue No. 1, Blue No. 2, Blue No.201, Blue No. 404, Green No. 3, Green No.201, Green No.204, Green No.205, Orange No.201, Orange No.203, Orange No.204, Orange No.206, and Orange No.207.

Natural dyes include powders such as carmine, laccaic acid, carsamine, brazilin, and crocin.

The doped or non-composite powder may also be suitable as a base powder for surface treatment. Examples of these include powder prepared by coating inorganic coloring pigments such as red iron oxide with silicic anhydride, powders prepared by coating nylon with white pigments and powders prepared by charge coating with coatings. ultrafine white pigments.

The mineral powder or powders according to the invention may (optionally) be surface-modified with organic compounds.

More preferably, the powder is a mineral powder consisting of one or more mineral compound (s) insoluble (s) in water.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "insoluble in water" means a compound whose solubility at spontaneous pH in water at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure is less than 0.1%.

The water-insoluble mineral compound (s) are preferably chosen from metal carbonates, oxides and sulphates, silicates, modified or unmodified silicas, mica, talc, and mixtures thereof. By way of examples, mention may be made more particularly of carbonates, oxides and sulphates of alkaline-earth metals such as beryllium, magnesium, calcium, strontium, barium and radium, better magnesium and calcium; oxides, sulphates and carbonates of aluminum, gallium and indium; silicates such as kaolinite or kaolin (natural silicates containing kaolinite), silicates containing magnesium, in particular those containing a magnesium content greater than 10% by weight (in dry basis) expressed as magnesium oxide, such as silicates of Li-Mg-Na such as Laponite XLG proposed by ROCKWOOD; modified or unmodified silicas, better modified; mica; talcum; and their mixtures.

Among the modified silicas, it is preferred to use surface-treated silicas such as hydrophobic silicas, for example nanometric sized hydrophobic fumed silica, and surface-treated with hexamethyldisilazane such as the silica sold under the trade name Aerosil R812S or Aerosil R972 by the company EVONIK, or HDK H115 by Wacker, or hydrophobic fumed silica surface-treated with dimethylsilane.

More preferentially, the powder or powders are chosen from calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, alumina, barium sulfate, magnesium oxide, kaolinite or kaolin, modified or unmodified silicas, which are better modified and more preferably nanometric-sized hydrophobic fumed silica and surface-treated with hexamethyldisilazane or hydrophobic fumed silica treated surface-treated with dimethylsilane; mica; talcum; and their mixtures. The hydrophobic silica is especially chosen from silicas having a specific surface area of 50 to 500 m 2 / g, a number average particle size ranging from 3 to 50 nm, and a packed density ranging from 40 to 200 and better still from 50 to 150. g / 1.

The powder (s) is (are) present preferably in an amount of greater than or equal to 30% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solid composition.

More particularly, the powder (s) is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 30 to 99% by weight, better still from 40 to 95% by weight, even more preferably from 50 to 93% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the solid composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises, as a second essential ingredient, one or more cationic polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "cationic polymer" generally refers to any polymer containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups.

The cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that may either be part of the main polymer chain or may be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.

The cationic polymers used generally have a weight average molecular weight of between about 500 and 5 × 10 6, and preferably between about 103 and 3 × 10 6.

Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following units of formula:

in which: R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; A, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R 1 and R 2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of the family (1) may further contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by C1-C4 alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of: copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a halide

of dimethyl, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by Hercules, copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, the acrylamide copolymer and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, - vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, whether or not quaternized, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by ISP, as example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or the products referred to as "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French Patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, the dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl-vinyl copolymers. dimethylamine, such as those sold under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP; quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylamino-propylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by ISP, the polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4) ammonium salts; such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking by an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA. (2) cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

The cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are especially described in FR1492597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR). 400, LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

The cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, are described in particular in the US4131576 patent, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl cellulose grafted in particular with a salt methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl diallylammonium. The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the company National Starch.

The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in the patents US Pat. No. 3,098,578 and US Pat. No. 4,031,307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed in particular under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar C162 by Rhodia. (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and linear or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent groups, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or else by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halogenide, epilhalohydrin, diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functional groups, quaternized. (5) polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz. (6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid being preferably between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine. (7) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or of dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (PI) or (PII):

in which - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; - R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; - Rio and Ru, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C 1 -C 4 amidoalkyl group; ; or else Rio and R11 can designate

together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Rio and Ru, independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium for example sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company NALCO (and their counterparts of low molecular weight average) and the copolymers of salts (by example chloride) diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR". (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula:

III) in which: R13, R14, Ris and RiO, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-4alkylalkylaliphatic groups, or else R13, R14, Ris and Rm, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or R13, R14, Ris and Rm represent a linear C1-C6 alkyl group or branched substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide group or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D where R17 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; - Al and Bi represent divalent polymethylenic groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or

a plurality of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and - X "denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; that Al, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

In addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, Bi may also denote a (CH 2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH 2) n- group in which D denotes: a) a residue of glycol of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CEb-CEb-Ojx-CEb-CEb- and - [CH2-CH (CH3) - Where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or the divalent group -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X "is an anion such as chloride or bromide These polymers have a number average molecular weight (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100,000.

Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which consist of repeating units corresponding to the formula:

in which R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to approximately 20 and, X "is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A particularly preferred compound of formula (PIV) is that for which R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 represent a methyl group, n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA). (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (PV):

in which: - Ris, R19, R20 and R21, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl or β-hydroxypropyl group or -CFUCH ^ OCFUCFUjpOH, where p is equal to 0; or to an integer from 1 to 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, - r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, q is 0 or an integer between 1 and 34, X- denotes an anion such as a halide, - A denotes a radical of a dihalide or is preferably -CH2-CH2-O-CH2 CH2.

For example, the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol can be mentioned. (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F. (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary. (12) polymers having in their structure:

(a) one or more of the following Forms (A):

(b) optionally one or more units of the following formula (B):

In other words, these polymers may in particular be chosen from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B) , preferably from 10 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

These polymers can be obtained for example by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be done in acidic or basic medium.

The weight average molecular weight of said polymer, measured by diffraction of light, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.

The cationic charge density of these polymers can vary from 2 to 20 meq / g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq / g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq / g.

The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are in particular sold under the name LUPAMIN by the company BASF, such as, for example,

and in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamine 9095, Lupamine 5095, Lupamine 1095, Lupamine 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamine 9010. Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

Preferably, the cationic polymers used in the present invention are chosen from those of the family (8), more particularly from polymers which consist of repeating units corresponding to the formula (PIV), and in particular that referred to as INCI Hexadimethrin nomenclature. chloride.

Preferably, the cationic polymer (s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the solid composition.

The powder (s) and the cationic polymer (s) are preferably present in a weight ratio of powder (s) / cationic polymer (s) greater than or equal to 1, more preferably 2. more preferably 5, and more preferably 10.

More particularly, said ratio is preferably from 1 to 50, more preferably from 2 to 40, more preferably from 5 to 35, and even more preferably from 10 to 30.

The solid compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additives chosen from anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, nonionic polymers, nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, ceramides, pseudoamines and the like. ceramides, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, water-soluble and fat-soluble sunscreens, pearlescent and opacifying agents, sequestering agents, solubilising agents, antioxidants, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, anti-hair loss agents and / or regrowing hair, penetrating agents, perfumes, peptizers and preservatives, or any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field.

These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the solid composition. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additives and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a compacted powder. They can be used as styling products.

The solid composition according to the invention can be manufactured by a known method. In particular, the method which consists in compression molding the solid composition as described above can be cited.

The method of manufacturing by compression molding a composition according to the invention comprises the following steps: (1) mixing the powder (s) with the cationic polymer (s) with stirring, at room temperature (18-25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure, (2) optionally crush and sift the mixture obtained in the first step, (3) transfer the mixture into a container such as a metal cup, and (4) mold compression at a pressure of from 0.5 to 10 MPa, preferably from 1 to 5 MPa.

In step (1), any type of apparatus can be used. As examples of apparatus, there may be mentioned in particular a Henschel mixer, a mixer-mixer, a V-mixer, a ribbon mixer, a Nauta mixer and a high speed mixer.

In step (2), any grinding can be done by means of a grinding apparatus such as a hammer mill, a pin mill or an atomizer. This grinding is then followed by a sieving of the ground material obtained. In addition, it is possible to apply vibrations in order to increase the homogeneity of the mixture.

In step (4), a hydraulic or electric compactor can be used.

In particular, the VETRACO CP012 electric compacting machine allows a better control of the compaction parameters such as the pressure, the holding time under pressure, the filling of the cup, the rate of rise in pressure.

The container, like the metal cup, is placed in a tool filled with powder in which is slipped a punch which compact the powder to the desired pressure. There are different shapes and sizes of cups depending on the packaging of sale. The weight of the powder and the pressure are to be optimized in the retaining cup.

The finished product is evaluated by the following characteristics: disintegration, which is the ability of a compacted composition to release the quantity of powder necessary for use. It involves rubbing the surface of the product, using the applicator specified for marketing, or finger if the product is intended to be used as well. If it is too hard the product will be difficult to disintegrate. In the opposite case, if it is not hard enough, the product will disintegrate too easily; the hardness which represents the resistance to penetration in a compacted composition. The higher it is, the more difficult the disintegration is; - the mechanical resistance that is assessed by the drop test. These falls are done manually: the cups are dropped 10 times from a height of 30 cm on a calibrated surface hard and flat. The average is carried out on 6 dishes. The maximum tolerated percentage of loss is 10%.

This process for preparing the powder makes it possible to obtain a compact galenic form of less volatile powder having a styling effect. This results in particular by a contribution of volume and a detachment of the roots. Moreover, this composition makes it possible to provide a more cosmetic touch, that is to say softer, more homogeneous and smooth during the setting and application, and it is easier to eliminate with a shampoo than the existing products such as, for example, the one sold under the trademark Carré d'Or of Piacelabo.

The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, and more particularly to the shaping, of keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers, and in particular of the hair, which comprises the application to said fibers of an effective amount of a solid composition as described above.

This application is not rinsed.

The present invention also relates to the use of the solid composition according to the invention for shaping the hair. The invention is illustrated by the following example.

Example

Compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. The amounts are indicated in% by weight of raw material as is with respect to the total weight of the composition.

MA: active ingredient

1 - Supreme kaolin from IMERYS

2 - Aerosil R812S - EVONIK 3 - Magnesium stearate - stearinerie Dubois

4 - Mexomere PO (Hexadimethrin chloride) - CHIMEX

5 - Sepicide LD - SEPPIC 6 - MINACARE octiol - Minasolve

This composition was prepared by: mixing powders and solid raw materials in a mixer with blades, a stirrer and a double jacket, in order to obtain the most homogeneous product possible, incorporation of the liquid raw materials, by spraying by means of a spray nozzle, manual or automatic sieving to make the powder more uniform and to break any agglomerates beforehand

compaction, the sieve used having a mesh opening of 250 μm, and compacting in metal cups using an electric compactor, at a pressure expressed in force, for example, between 500 and 1200 kg.

The powder thus compacted is applied by means of a finger or a suitable applicator to the hair.

The result is a smooth, homogeneous and smooth feel as well as a volume and mass contribution and a detachment of the roots.

Claims (11)

A process for the cosmetic treatment, and more particularly shaping, of the hair, comprising the application of an effective amount of a solid composition comprising: (i) one or more powders, and (ii) one or more polymers cationic. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the powder is mineral, preferably consisting of one or more mineral compound (s) insoluble (s) in water, more preferably selected from carbonates, metal oxides and sulphates, silicates, modified or unmodified silicas, mica, talc and mixtures thereof. 3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the powder is chosen from calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, alumina, barium sulfate, magnesium oxide, kaoliteite or kaolin, modified or unmodified silicas, better modified, mica, talc and mixtures thereof. 4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the powder (s) is (are) present in an amount greater than or equal to 30% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight. weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solid composition, 5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of powder (s) ranges from 30 to 99% by weight, preferably from 40 to 95% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 93% by weight. relative to the total weight of the solid composition. 6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer is chosen from polymers which consist of repeating units corresponding to the formula: in which R 1, R 5, R 4 and R 4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to approximately 20 and X 'is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. 7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer (s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the solid composition. 8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the powder (s) and the cationic polymer (s) are present in a weight ratio of powder (s) to polymer (s). ) cationic (s) greater than or equal to 1, more preferably 2. 9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a compacted powder. A method of manufacturing by compression molding a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, comprising the following steps: (1) mixing the powder (s) with the cationic polymer (s) (S) stirring at room temperature (18-25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure, (2) grinding and sieving the mixture obtained in the first step, (3) transferring the mixture into a container, and (4) compression molding at a pressure of from 0.5 to 10 MPa, preferably from 1 to 5 MPa. 11. Use of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 for shaping the hair.