FR3039374A1 - PROCESS FOR TREATING CAPILLARY FIBERS - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for treating hair fibers, comprising (i) a combing of the hair fibers, (ii) an application of a composition to the hair fibers, (iii) a treatment of the hair fibers by the application of steam (iv) heat treatment of the hair fibers by conduction and / or radiation, step (i) taking place before step (ii).

Description

The present invention relates to a method of treating hair fibers.

It is known to smooth the hair with pliers of smoothing. These clamps make it possible to obtain a smoothing of the keratin fibers at high temperature. However, to obtain a smooth appearance, it is necessary to perform several passes of the clamp which significantly increases the treatment time of the hair fibers. Moreover, the repeated application of the smoothing flat grippers can sometimes cause a degradation of the hair fibers due to the application temperature of the smoothing gripper.

It is known from the international application WO 2014/064660 a device for applying a cosmetic product on the hair, to expose them to steam, to submit them to a heat treatment and to comb them. The comb is disposed downstream of the applicator member of the cosmetic product and the combing step is therefore after the product application step.

There is a need to develop a new process for treating human keratin fibers which makes it possible to fully benefit from the properties of the applied cosmetic product and which is easy and quick to implement. The invention aims to meet this need, according to a first aspect, with the aid of a method for treating hair fibers, comprising: (i) a combing of the hair fibers, (ii) an application of a composition on the capillary fibers, (iii) a treatment of the capillary fibers by the application of steam, (iv) a thermal treatment of the capillary fibers by conduction and / or radiation, the step (i) taking place before step (ii) .

The fact of combing before the application of the product makes it easier to penetrate the hair product into the treated lock.

In addition, this makes it easier to treat the hair fibers by facilitating the movement of the tool (s) implementing the method along the hair fibers, in particular by reducing the force that the user must exert to deposit a quantity of predetermined product.

By "hair fibers" is meant human keratinous fibers such as the hair or synthetic fibers called "extensions" which are reported on the hair of a person by various means, including by gluing, and this for example to change the appearance of a person's natural hair.

The process steps can be performed by at least two different tools.

Preferably, the steps (i) of combing and (ii) application of a hair product, are carried out using a single tool.

As a variant, all the steps of the method can be carried out using a single tool, in particular using a device for shaping the hair configured to implement the different steps successively on the same portion. of hair fibers. Preferably, the process steps are performed by moving the tool or tools along a wick of hair fibers. The step (iv) of heat treatment of the hair fibers can be implemented by a hair straightener.

According to this embodiment, the method of the invention makes it possible to improve the smoothing of the hair, in particular to reduce the volume of the hair.

The steps can be carried out successively in the following order: - (i), (ii), (iv) then (iii), - (iii), (i), (ii) then (iv), - (iii) , (iv), (i) then (ii), - (iv), (iii), (i) then (ii), - (iv), (i), (ii) then (iii), or preferentially, - (i), (ü), (iu) and then (iv).

Preferably, the steps (i) and (ii) are carried out, for example during the same session in the hairdresser, with a delay between them less than or equal to 5 min, better still less than or equal to 1 min, even better inferior or equal to 30 s, preferably less than or equal to 15 s, and still more preferably less than or equal to 5 s.

Preferably, all the successive steps are performed with a delay between them less than or equal to 5 min, better still less than or equal to 1 min, more preferably less than or equal to 30 s, preferably less than or equal to 15 s.

The method is preferably free of a combing step after step (ii) within 15 seconds.

Preferably, the method comprises a single combing step. The fact that there is only one step of combing makes it possible to simplify the process without the effectiveness of the treatment being affected.

Preferably, step (iv) takes place after step (ii), in particular less than 5 min, better less than 1 min after step (ii), even better less than 30 s, preferably less than 15 s. after step (ii).

Preferably, step (iii) takes place after step (ii) and before step (iv), in particular less than 5 min, better less than 1 min, even better less than 30 s, preferentially less than 15 min. s before step (iii) and after step (ii).

The heat treatment can be carried out by contacting the capillary fibers with hot surfaces, especially hot surfaces applying to the hair a tension allowing, for example, smoothing, combing or disentangling the hair fibers.

The heat treatment may be carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 90 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 120 ° C, more preferably greater than or equal to 140 ° C, even more preferably greater than or equal to 170 ° C and / or less than 230 ° C, preferably less than 220 ° C, more preferably less than 210 ° C; hot surfaces are preferably brought to such temperatures.

The amount of vapor applied during step (iii) may be greater than or equal to 1 g / min, preferably greater than or equal to 2.5 g / min and less than or equal to 60 g / min, preferably less than or equal to at 30 g / min, preferably less than or equal to 10 g / min, more preferably less than or equal to 6 g / min, and even more preferably less than or equal to 4.5 g / min. The water vapor applied to the hair fibers during step (iii) may contain one or more cosmetic ingredients and / or active ingredients such as a perfume, and / or a shaping and / or conditioning active.

The composition applied to the hair fibers is preferably in the fluid state during application.

The composition may be aqueous or anhydrous.

The composition may comprise at least one ingredient chosen from solvents, surfactants, thickeners, preserving agents, perfumes, coloring precursors, direct dyes, silicone polymers or not, fixing or not, fatty substances, especially mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, and waxes, reducing agents, oxidants, UV filters, conditioning agents, anti-free radical agents, sequestering or stabilizing agents, antioxidants, acidifiers, agents alkalis, silicones, volatile or not, chemically reactive or inert polymers, pigments, organic or mineral solid particles, vitamins, plant extracts or pro-penetrating or swelling agents of the fiber.

Preferably, the composition is a hair fiber care composition. The application step of the composition may be followed or preceded by a rinsing, a fiber washing step, a shaping step or the control of the shape for example by means of a fixing gel, a shaping foam, a lacquer, a non-rinsed conditioner in the form of a cream, a permanent, semi-permanent or temporary coloring step, a permanent deformation step by means of a reducing agent and optionally a fixing agent, an alkaline straightening step, in particular with sodium hydroxide or with guanidine carbonate. According to a second of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a method for treating hair fibers, comprising: (i) a single step of combing the hair fibers, (ii) an application of a composition to the hair fibers (iv) a heat treatment of the hair fibers, step (i) taking place before step (ii).

The method may, according to this aspect of the invention, comprise or not a step (iii) of treatment of capillary fibers by the application of steam.

The characteristics described in connection with the method according to the first aspect of the invention also apply to the method according to the second aspect of the invention. The invention will be better understood on reading the following detailed description, non-limiting implementation examples thereof, and on examining the appended drawing, in which: FIG. FIG. 2 is a graph obtained according to example 1 described below; after, and - Figure 4 represents a graph obtained according to Example 3 described below.

In the example illustrated in FIG. 1, the method comprises four successive steps 10, 12, 14 and 16 carried out on a wick of hair fibers by a device for shaping the hair. The device is configured to carry out the various steps of the process successively on the hair fibers, by moving the latter along the lock of hair, in particular on a portion of the capillary fibers inserted between two arms of said device, forming a clamp . Step 10 is a hair combing step for separating the hair fibers before applying a composition in step 12. The application of the composition 12 is preferably done immediately after step 10. The hair fibers are then subjected to a steam treatment 14 which takes place immediately before step 12. Finally, the hair fibers are subjected to a heat treatment 16 to smooth them. They are brought into contact with hot plates, in particular each disposed on an arm of the device, between which they are clamped. The application of the composition 12 can be done using an applicator member disposed on one of the arms and tightening the portion of hair fibers being treated against a counter-bearing surface of the other arms. Alternatively, the application of the composition 12 can be done using two tools, including an applicator member and a composition of the distribution member on the hair fibers.

Alternatively, the various steps above are performed with at least two different devices. The steps 10 and 12 can be performed with the same device, for example a comb or a hairbrush applying the composition, and the steps 14 and 16 can be performed by the same device, in particular a smoothing device or by two separate devices. , in particular a device for applying steam and a device for smoothing the hair.

Example 1

A first device adapted to the treatment according to the invention is used on locks of natural hair of the Caucasian type, having a type IV curl.

These locks are combed by passing through a comb and then the hair care composition A, the formulation of which is given in Table 1, is applied to said locks by pinching the locks between an applicator member and a counter surface. support.

Table 1: Composition A.

w XIAMETER MEM-8299 EMULSION sold by the company Dow Corning

(2) XIAMETER MEM-2664 EMULSION sold by the company Dow Corning

The locks are then subjected to steam with a flow rate of about 3.5 g / min, then the locks are clamped between two plates of the device, heated to a temperature of 200 ° C.

In parallel, a second device is used on locks of hair of the same type as before. This device makes it possible to carry out the same steps as above, but the combing step takes place after the application of the product.

For these two treatments, the time intervals between the different steps are substantially the same and the locks of hair are from the same batch.

The combing force is measured using a traction machine, in particular a Lloyd LSI® with a 50N sensor, by measuring the mechanical strength of the device by passing over a lock of hair. The results are shown in Table 2 and Figure 2.

Table 2: Combing force measured for the first and second devices, equivalent amount of product applied.

It can be seen in the graph of FIG. 2 that when the combing step is upstream of the application step (application with the first device), the force required by the user to move the device along the wick of hair for the same amount of composition applied is on average lower than when the combing step takes place downstream of the application step (application with the second device).

The fact of proceeding to the combing step before the application step facilitates the movement of the device along the lock of hair while maintaining a good application of composition.

Example 2

A first device adapted to the treatment according to the invention is used on a lock of natural hair of the Caucasian type, having a type IV curl.

The wick is combed by passing through a comb and composition A is applied to the wick by pinching the latter between an applicator member and a counter-support surface. The wick is then subjected to steam with a flow rate of about 3.5 g / min, then it is pinched between two plates heated to a temperature of 200 ° C. The above treatment is performed by a passage of a duration of 15s of the device along the lock of hair.

In parallel, a second device is used on a lock of hair of the same type as before. This second device makes it possible to carry out the same steps as above, but the combing step takes place after the application of the composition. The treatment time is the same.

For these two devices, the time intervals between the different steps are substantially identical.

Finally, a commercial smoothing device, here a Styler® ghd gold classic, is used on a lock of hair of the same type as before. This smoothing device has no means of combing and application of the composition. He passed 3 times along the lock of hair, each passage for 8 s.

The locks of hair used for these different treatments come from the same batch.

Figure 3 shows four locks of hair. The first bit 20 starting from the left is a lock of hair of the type described above, having undergone no treatment. The second lock of hair 22 is a lock of hair of the same type having been treated with the first device. The third lock of hair 24 is a lock of hair of the same type that has been treated with the second device. Finally, the last lock of hair 26 is a lock of hair of the same type having been treated with the device of the trade.

It can be seen that when the combing step takes place upstream of the application step, better smoothing is obtained. The capillary fibers are straighter and thus have a better alignment between them. The hair fibers also occupy a smaller volume.

Example 3

A first treatment according to the invention is carried out on a lock of natural hair of the Caucasian type, having a type IV curl.

In a first application step, a first device is used. The device makes it possible to comb the wick by passage in a comb, then to apply the composition A on the latter by pinching between an applicator member and a counter-support surface. The first device makes two passages lasting 15 s on the lock of hair.

In a second smoothing step, the lock of hair goes into a commercial smoothing device, here the Styler® ghd gold classic used previously. This smoothing device makes it possible to pinch the lock of hair between two heated plates at a temperature of 190 ° C. It is passed twice along the lock of hair, each passage for 15 s.

In parallel, a second treatment is performed on a lock of hair of the same type as before. The second treatment is identical to the first except that the application step is performed with a second device. The latter makes it possible to carry out the same steps as above, but the combing step takes place after the application of the composition. The treatment time and the number of passes on the lock of hair are the same.

For both treatments, the time intervals between the different steps are substantially identical.

The combing force as a function of the amount of product applied is determined by measuring the resistance of each device to the passage on a lock of hair using a traction machine, in particular a Lloyd LSI® with a 50N sensor. Measurements are made for each step of application and smoothing.

The measurements are made on 3 locks of different hair of the aforementioned type.

The results are shown in Figure 4.

It can be seen from the graph of FIG. 4 that when the combing step is upstream of the application step (application with the first device), the forces necessary for the user to move the first device and the device Smoothing during the first treatment along the lock of hair for the same amount of applied composition is on average lower than that required with the second device and the smoothing device during the second treatment.

The fact of proceeding to the combing step before the application step facilitates the movement of the devices along the lock of hair while maintaining a good application of composition.

Claims (15)

A method of treating hair fibers, comprising: (i) combing (10) the hair fibers, (ii) applying (12) a composition to the hair fibers, (iii) treating the hair fibers with the hair fibers. application of steam (14), (iv) heat treatment (16) of the hair fibers by conduction and / or radiation, step (i) taking place before step (ii). 2. Method according to claim 1, being devoid of combing step after step (ii) within 15 s. 3. Method according to one of the preceding claims, comprising a single combing step. 4. A method of treating hair fibers, comprising: (i) a single combing step (10) of the hair fibers, (ii) an application (12) of a composition on the hair fibers, (iv) a heat treatment ( 16) capillary fibers, step (i) taking place before step (ii). 5. Method according to the preceding claim, comprising a step (iii) of treating the hair fibers by the application of steam (14). 6. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and 5, step (iii) taking place after step (ii) and before step (iv), in particular less than 5 min, better less than 1 min, even better less than 30 s, and preferably less than 15 s before step (iii) and after step (ii). 7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein step (i) takes place less than 5 min, is preferably less than 1 min, more preferably less than 30 s, preferentially less than 15 s, and even more preferably less than 5 s before step (ii). 8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, step (iv) taking place after step (ii), in particular less than 5 min, better less than 1 min, even better less than 30 s, and preferentially less 15 s after step (ii). 9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the process steps being carried out by at least two different tools. The method of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the steps of (i) combing and (ii) applying a composition are performed using a single tool. 11. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, the process steps being performed using a single tool, in particular using a hair shaping device configured to implement implement the different steps successively on the same portion of hair fibers. 12. Method according to any one of claims 9 to 11, the process steps being performed by moving the tool or tools along a wick of hair fibers. 13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, the heat treatment being carried out by contact of the capillary fibers with hot surfaces. 14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, the heat treatment being carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 90 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 120 ° C, more preferably greater than or equal to 140 ° C, still more preferably greater than or equal to 170 ° C, and / or less than 230 ° C, preferably less than 220 ° C, more preferably less than 210 ° C. 15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, the composition being in a fluid state during application.