FR3029414A1 - OIL-IN-WATER EMULSIONS COMPRISING WAX AND SILICONE OIL - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an aqueous phase and a fatty phase, containing: at least one wax, a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one silicone oil, the the wax (es) being insoluble in said liquid fatty phase, in particular in the silicone oil (s), and at least one pigment.

Description

The present invention relates to compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, comprising at least one wax and at least one silicone oil, these compositions being in the form of oil-in-oil emulsions. -water. The present invention also relates to the use of these compositions for makeup and / or care, especially of the skin.

In the field of cosmetics, and more specifically complexion makeup, consumers are more and more in search of products, offering both a natural makeup result with a feeling of lightness. The foundations are mostly water-in-oil emulsions (W / H) to provide coverage to hide imperfections but can be correlated to a sophisticated make-up. The presence of pigments, fillers as well as oils in the external phase of these inverse emulsions, confer a feeling of heaviness, of effect "mask", accompanied by a feeling of fat which can displease the consumers who are waiting for lightness and natural makeup. The oil-in-water emulsions, whose external phase is watery, will have the advantage of bringing lightness, but, on the other hand, often lack of coverage to be perceived by the consumers as a true foundation.

Also, the presence of pigments in the external phase (aqueous) of these oil-in-water emulsions contributes during the application to a braking effect, exacerbating a difficult implementation, contributing, during the application, to a makeup not homogeneous (trail of foundation). This difficult application, otherwise referred to as "lack of play time", most often results in a fast drying of the film accompanied by a lack of slippery. It remains therefore necessary to seek a technical solution that can achieve a consistent makeup result and covering while maintaining the product easy and pleasant spreading properties and a light deposit and fresh.

The object of the present invention is thus to provide oil-in-water emulsions with good cosmetic application properties. The present invention also aims to provide oil-water emulsions having satisfactory covering properties, that is to say capable of masking color imperfections and / or able to matify the face and / or capable of smoothing the skin. embossed imperfections. The present invention also aims to provide oil-water emulsions having a significant freshness to the application without printing heaviness.

The present invention also aims to provide oil-in-water emulsions having good application properties in terms of playtime. The present invention also aims to provide oil-water emulsions having a homogeneous makeup result.

Thus, the present invention relates to a composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an aqueous phase and a fatty phase, comprising: at least one wax, a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one oil silicone, the wax (es) being (are) insoluble in said liquid fatty phase, in particular in the silicone oil (s), and at least one pigment. The constituents of the compositions of the invention are chosen in order to maintain, within the fat phase of the emulsion, crystallizable particles.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the presence of crystallizable particles, via the precise addition of waxes, makes it possible to significantly improve the play-time, the coverage and the homogeneity of the emulsion foundation deposits. direct. The introduction of wax, the crystallizable particles of which are present in the internal phase of direct emulsion and the pigments of which are in the external phase, has made it possible to significantly improve the play-time of the foundation deposit. The establishment of these foundation becomes easier and less restrictive. A composition according to the invention comprises a solid fatty phase comprising at least one wax according to the invention and a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one silicone oil according to the invention.

3029414 3 Wax (s) The composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax. A composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax which is not solubilized in the liquid fatty phase, in particular comprises at least one wax which is not solubilized in the silicone oil (s) in accordance with the invention. According to the invention, the term "wax" denotes a lipophilic compound, crystallizable, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 ° C., go up to 120 ° C. Preferably, the wax (es) according to the invention is (are) devoid of amphiphilic properties. The wax (es) according to the invention is (are) devoid of surfactant properties. In particular, the wax (es) according to the invention is (are) distinct from a fatty alcohol, in particular consisting in isolation of a 0-16-022 alkyl chain. The waxes according to the invention do not have a liquid fraction at 25 ° C.

In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 40 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 45 ° C. or even 50 ° C., and more particularly 55 ° C. but lower than or equal to 110 ° C, in particular at 100 ° C, more particularly at 90 ° C, or even 80 ° C, more precisely at 75 ° C.

Within the meaning of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3 standard; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920®" by the company TA Instruments.

Preferably, the measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at the heating rate of 10 ° C. ° C / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / min and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at heating rate of 5 ° C / minute During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of the temperature is measured. The melting point of compound 35 is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of curve 3 representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one melting peak corresponding to the melting point (s) of the wax (es) in accordance with the invention. The wax may especially have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, and preferably ranging from 3 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive strength measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm. moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based or fluorinated and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a wax content (s) greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.2% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight. %, preferably 1% and 6%, more preferably 1.2% to 5% by weight, more preferably 1.4% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty phase comprises less than 5% by weight of wax (s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, in particular of the liquid fatty phase. According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty phase comprises 5% by weight of wax (es) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, in particular of the liquid fatty phase.

According to one embodiment, the fatty phase comprises from 0.2% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 7%, and preferably from 1% to 5%, by weight of wax (s) relative to total weight of said fatty phase.

The wax (es) according to the invention are (are) chosen from the group consisting of polar waxes, apolar waxes, and mixtures thereof. Apolar waxes According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one apolar wax.

According to the invention, the term "apolar wax" refers to a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C. as defined below, S, is equal to 0 (J / cm 3) 1/2. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - SD characterizes the dispersion forces of LONDON resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; 10 - 8p characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - Sh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); 15 - Sa is determined by the equation: Sa = (81,2 + 81,2) 1/2 The parameters 8p, 8h, SD and Sa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/2. The apolar waxes according to the invention are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention are The invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based apolar wax. In particular, apolar wax means a wax which consists solely of apolar wax and not a mixture which would also include other types of waxes which are not apolar waxes. As examples of apolar waxes that are suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned hydrocarbon-based waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.

As polyethylene wax, mention may be made of waxes sold by the company CIREBELLE. OZOKERITE WAX SP 1020 P may be mentioned as ozokerite. As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of MULTIWAX W 445® sold by the company SONNEBORN and MICROWAX HW® and BASE 35 WAX 30540® marketed by PARAMELT.

As microscreens which can be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, there may be mentioned in particular polyethylene microwires such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the MICRO POWDERS company.

According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least one apolar wax chosen from paraffin waxes. Mention may in particular be made of those sold under the names CERAFFINE 56-58 PASTILLES or SASOLWAX 5603 by the companies BAERLOCHER or SASOL. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a content of apolar wax (s), in particular apolar hydrocarbon, greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.2% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 8%, preferably from 1% to 6%, more preferably from 1.2% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1.4% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition . Polar wax According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polar wax. According to the invention, the term "polar" wax designates a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C. Sa, as defined above, is different from 0 (J / cm 3) 1/2. In particular, "polar" wax is understood to mean a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an atom of oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus. The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone. By "polar hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom. or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. By "silicone wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a polar hydrocarbon wax. As hydrocarbon polar wax, mention may be made in particular of a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes. According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ester wax. By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. In particular, it is possible to use, as ester wax, such as those chosen from: i) waxes of formula R 1 COROR 2 in which R 1 and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50 , which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P, and whose melting temperature varies from 25 ° C to 120 ° C. In particular, a C 20 -C 40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate, may be used as the ester wax. Such waxes are sold, for example, under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®", "Kester Wax K 80 P®", or "Kester KSH WAX" by the company Koster Keunen.

It is also possible to use a montanate (octacosanoate) of glycol and butylene glycol, such as the wax LICOWAX KPS FLAKES (INCI name: montanate glycol) marketed by Clariant. ii) di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name HEST 2T-45® by the company HETERENE, iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of the general formula R3- ( -000R4-000-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are the same or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents an aliphatic group of C4-C30 (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) linear branched may or may not contain 1 or more unsaturations, and preferably linear and unsaturated, iv) triesters, including glycerol triesters.

In particular, mention may be made of glycerol tribehenate such as SYNCROWAX HRC-PA- (RB) or SYNCROWAX HRC-PA- (MH) wax (INCI name: tribehenin) marketed by Croda. V) waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched, C8-C32 fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, oil hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM . Such waxes are described in application FR 2 792 190 and the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol such as that sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57" or else; Vi) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, wax of Ouricury, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax; sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax. According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. According to one embodiment, the polar wax may be silicone-like silicone beeswax, or an alkyl dimethicone such as C30-45 alkyl dimethicone sold under the reference SF1642 by Momentive Performance Materials.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a content of polar wax, and in particular of polar hydrocarbon wax, and preferably of ester wax, ranging from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight. %, and in particular from 1% to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty phase A fatty phase according to the present invention comprises at least one wax in accordance with the invention and at least one liquid fatty phase, the liquid fatty phase comprising at least one silicone oil.

The compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and a liquid fatty phase (or oily phase) dispersed. By liquid or solid is meant the state of the compounds at a temperature of 25 ° C. According to one embodiment, the compositions comprise from 5% to 50%, preferably from 10% to 30%, and in particular from 15% to 25%, by weight of fatty phase, in particular of liquid fatty phase, by relative to the total weight of said composition. The liquid fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention therefore comprises at least one silicone oil but may also comprise at least one other oil or several other oils. It may consist of a single oil or a mixture of several oils. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one embodiment, the oils are chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils and their mixtures. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon oil", an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acidic radicals. According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil.

Silicone oil As indicated above, the compositions of the invention comprise at least one silicone oil as defined above. They can therefore comprise at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone oil, or a mixture of these. According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise from 5% to 50%, preferably from 10% to 30%, and in particular from 15% to 25%, by weight of silicone oil relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one volatile silicone oil. The term "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or the lips, in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm 2 / min, inclusive. To measure this evaporation rate is introduced into a crystallizer, diameter 7 cm, placed on a scale located in a large enclosure of about 0.3 m3 temperature-controlled, at a temperature of 25 ° C, and 20 ° C. hygrometry, at a relative humidity of 50%, 15 g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions per minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed to the crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm2) and per unit of time (minute).

As volatile silicone oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cst) (8 × 10 -6 m 2) / s), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxyl groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cst, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane and heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane. hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, as silicone volatile oil, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil. Preferably, a silicone oil according to the present invention is non-cyclic, in particular linear or branched.

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm 2 / min. Among the nonvolatile silicone oils, mention may be made of non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as caprylylmethicone; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenyl ethyl trimethyl siloxysilicates. Other oils As indicated above, in addition to the silicone oil, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one other non-silicone oil. Non-volatile non-silicone oil According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one non-volatile oil. The oily phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of several non-volatile oils.

The non-volatile non-silicone oils may, in particular, be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon or fluorinated oils. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be mentioned include: hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl glutamate / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular, whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and especially from C18 to C36, these oils which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, bancoulier, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, oil of baobab, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, prairie pearl oil ('meadowfoam'), St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil 20 , walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, ki seed oil wi, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, pumpkin oil, rose hip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, oil sunflower, castor oil, and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under them. Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane; synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether; synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RiCOOR 2, in which R 1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing from 1 at 40 carbon atoms provided that the sum of the number of carbon atoms of the R 1 and R 2 chains is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, as for example: cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearate or isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxyl esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoate ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene dioctanoate glycol, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diethyl 2 -hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, sold by the Japanese company fine chemical and described in application US 2004/175338; copolymers of diol dimer and of diacid dimer and their esters, such as dimeric dilinoleyl diol / dimeric dilinoleic copolymers and their esters, for example Plandool-G; copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer; branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain-containing liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher 0-12-022 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; The di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; oils of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass of from about 400 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7,500 g / mol, and more particularly, ranging from about 1,000 to about 5,000 g / mol. As oil of high molar mass that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of oils chosen from: lipophilic polymers, linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, esters hydroxyls, aromatic esters, esters of branched fatty alcohols or of C24-C285 fatty acids, silicone oils, oils of vegetable origin, and mixtures thereof; fluorinated oils which may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones as described in document EP 0 847 752; and - their mixtures. According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one apolar hydrocarbon oil. According to one embodiment, the apolar hydrocarbon oil is devoid of heteroatom (s). By heteroatom is meant an atom other than carbon or hydrogen. According to one embodiment, the apolar fatty phase comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based nonpolar oil. According to one embodiment, the apolar oil is a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil chosen from saturated, linear or branched alkanes. According to one embodiment, the fatty phase comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil selected from the group consisting of squalene, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, petrolatum and naphthalene oils, polybutene polyisobutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated, isoeicosane, squalane, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers including Indopol L14, polydecenes such as PURESYN 10, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the fatty phase comprises hydrogenated polyisobutene (in particular Parleam). Non-silicone volatile oil In addition, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one non-silicone volatile oil. The oily phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of several non-silicone volatile oils. The non-silicone volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon or fluorinated oils. The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular 08-20 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins or isoalkanes), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4, 4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isoparse or Permethyls®. As hydrocarbon-based volatile oils, mention may also be made of linear C9-C17 alkanes, such as dodecane (O12) and tetradecane (C14), sold respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 (Sasol). ) and as the alkanes obtained according to the process described in the international application WO2007 / 068371, such as the mixture of undecane (Cil) and tridecane (013). As the fluorinated volatile oil, there may be mentioned for example nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise from 5% to 50%, preferably from 10% to 30%, and in particular from 15% to 25%, by weight of oil (s) relative to total weight of said composition.

According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise from 5% to 40%, preferably from 10% to 30%, and in particular from 10% to 25%, by weight of apolar oil (s) ( s) relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil, preferably apolar, preferably the hydrocarbon oil (s) is (are) nonvolatile (s). Preferably, the total content of hydrocarbon oil (s) represents from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the liquid fatty phase represents from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Lipophilic Gelling Agent According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention further comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent. The lipophilic gelling agent may be chosen from particulate gelling agents, and in particular modified clays, silicas such as pyrogenic silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels; organopolysiloxane elastomers; semi-crystalline polymers; hydrocarbon block copolymers; dextrin esters; hydrogen-bonded polymers; and their mixtures. According to one embodiment of the invention, a lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, hydrocarbon block copolymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers and mixtures thereof. .

As representative of the lipophilic particulate gelling agents suitable for the invention may be particularly mentioned, modified clays, silicas such as pyrogenic silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels. a) The clays can be natural or synthetic and are rendered lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a 0-10 to 022 ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. They can be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites. Preferably, they are chosen from hectorites. Preferably, the lipophilic clays used are hectorites modified with a 0-10 to 022 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed under The name of Bentone 38V® by Elementis or the bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® 3029414 17 (Isododecane 87% / Disteardimonium Hectorite 10'3 / 0 / Propylene carbonate 3%) by the company Elementis. In particular, lipophilic clay may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.15% to 10%, more particularly from 0.2% to 8% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. b) the fumed silica is advantageously hydrophobic treated surface. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by Cabot. c) Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. The aerogels used according to the present invention are more particularly aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate). By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example by halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, in order to functionalize the OH groups by Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups. Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725. Hydrophobic silica airgel particles which are surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably INCI name Silica silylate.

Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention include, for example, the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass of from 600 m 2 / g to 800 m 2 / g. There may also be mentioned aerogels marketed by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1100, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1200.

Among the lipophilic polymeric gelling agents may be particularly mentioned: a) The hydrocarbon block copolymers of the invention, also called block copolymers, are preferably soluble or dispersible in the oily phase.

Such hydrocarbon block copolymers are described in US 2002/005562 and US Pat. No. 5,221,534. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin. Particularly preferred are block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or a mixture thereof. The hydrocarbon block copolymer can be hydrogenated to reduce residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers. In particular, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C 3 -C 4 alkylene blocks. The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, preferably chosen from styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers and styrene-ethylene / butylene copolymers. Diblock polymers are sold in particular under the name Kraton® G1701E by Kraton Polymers. The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one triblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, preferably chosen from styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers and styrene-isoprene copolymers. Styrene, styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers. Triblock polymers are sold, for example, under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® D1101, Kraton® D1102 and Kraton® D1160 by Kraton Polymers. The hydrocarbon block copolymer can be a triblock styrene / butylene-styrene copolymer.

In particular, it is possible to use a mixture of a styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock copolymer and a styrene-ethylene / butylene diblock copolymer, in particular those sold under the name Kraton® G1657M by Kraton Polymers. The composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock hydrogenated copolymer and ethylene-propylene-styrene hydrogenated star polymer, such a mixture possibly being in isododecane or in another oil. Such mixtures are for example sold by PENRECO under the trade names VERSAGEL® M5960 and VERSAGEL® M5670.

The hydrocarbon-based block copolymer (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. B) The hydrogen-bonded polymers that are suitable for the invention may be very particularly polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides. According to one particular embodiment, the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (Ia): ## STR2 ## in which X represents a group -N (R 1) 2 in which R 1 is a linear alkyl radical or C2-branched at 022, which may be the same or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue of 028-042, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is 2 to 5; And mixtures thereof.

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may furthermore additionally comprise, in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (Ib): X ± C-RF C-NH-R3NH + CR, CX In which X represents a group -OR1 in which R1 is a linear or branched Cg to C22, preferably C16 to C22, alkyl radical which may be the same or different from each other, R2 is a diacid dimer residue in 028-042, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5, such as the commercial products sold by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 Uniclear or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer". The silicone polyamides may preferentially be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV): ## STR2 ## in which: R 4, R 5, R6 and R7, which are identical or different, represent a group chosen from: saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, C1 to Cao hydrocarbon-based groups, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and and / or nitrogen, and which may be partially or completely substituted by fluorine atoms, - C 6 to C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups, the polyorganosiloxane chains which may or may not contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms; the Xs, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkylene di-yl group which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms e, Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to C50 group, which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or substituting one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C3-C8 cycloalkyl, C1-C40 alkyl, C5-C10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted by 1-3 C 1-6 alkyl groups to 03, C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl and C1 to C6 alkylamines, or Y is a group of the formula: wherein - T is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, from 03 to 024 optionally substituted by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al, and - R8 represents a C1 to C50 alkyl group, linear or branched, or a chain p olyorganosiloxane, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide groups which may or may not be linked to another polymer chain; n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200 and m is an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200.

As an example of a silicone polymer that can be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained according to Examples 1 to 3 of US Pat. No. 5,981,680. Mention may be made of the compounds marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC. 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15) whose INCI name is "Nylon-611 / dimeth icone copolymers" that is to say Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymers. The silicone polymers and / or copolymers advantageously have a transition temperature of the solid state in the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C. to 190 ° C. Preferably they have a solid state transition temperature in the liquid state of 70 ° C to 130 ° C and more preferably 80 ° C to 05 ° C. c) "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" means a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere.

It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer. The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer, that is to say an organopolysiloxane elastomer containing no hydrophilic chain, and in particular not containing polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) units or polyglyceryl units.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone elastomer. In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention may be selected from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI Name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI Name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI Name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (Name INCI). The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may be conveyed in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in particular in patents EP 0 242 219, EP 30 0 285 886, EP 0 765 656 and in the application JP-A-61-194009. Mention may in particular be made of the following INCI name compounds: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as USG-105 and USG-107A from Shin Etsu; "DC9506" and "DC9701" from Dow Corning; Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" from Shin Etsu; Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Cyclopentasiloxane, such as "KSG-15"; Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9040", "DC9045" and "DC5930" from Dow Corning; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from Dow Corning; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning (a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked with hexadiene / polydimethyl siloxane (2 cSt)); 10 - 04-24 Alkyl Dimethicone / Divinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as NuLastic Silk MA by Alzo; Dimethicone / Dimethicone Vinyl Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" from Shin Etsu; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from Dow Corning; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning (Hexadiene / Polydimethylsiloxane Crosslinked Polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt)); and the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene / polydimethylsiloxane (5cst) sold under the name DC 9041 by Dow Corning. The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may also be used in the form of a powder, in particular mention may be made of the powders sold under the names "Dow Corning 9505 Powder" and "Dow Corning 9506 Powder" by the company Dow Corning. These powders have the following properties: for INCI name: dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer. The organopolysiloxane powder may also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104", "KSP-105" by the company Shin Etsu, and have the name INCI: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer. d) "Semi-crystalline polymer" means, in the context of the invention, polymers having a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid transition -liquid). The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the backbone. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin. According to one embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from: homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying hydrophobic side chain (s) crystallizable (s) ), polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, polyester polycondensates, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic, metallocene catalyzed ethylene and propylene copolymers, and acrylate copolymers. /silicone. The semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from: - block copolymers of controlled crystallization polyolefins, the monomers of which are described in EP 0 951 897, - polycondensates, and in particular of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic, - copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, - homo- or co-polymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and homo- or co-polymers carrying in the skeleton at least a crystallizable block, such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,156,911, such as the (C10-C30) alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to Intelimer® from Landec, described in the brochure "Intelimer® Polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97 ) and for example the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1 from Landec, which is a stearyl polyacrylate with a molecular weight of about 145,000 and whose the melting temperature is equal to 49 ° C., homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular with fluorinated group (s), as described in document WO 01/19333, acrylate / silicone copolymers, such as copolymers of acrylic acid and polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl acrylate, polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, and polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate and acrylic acid copolymers; copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, 2-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers sold by the company SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol), KP-545 (CTFA name : 5 acrylates / dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane), and mixtures thereof. The polymeric gellant may also be a dextrin ester. It is preferably at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid, preferably C12 to C24, in particular C14 to C18, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, this may for example be chosen from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling and Rheopearl 15 MKL-2 by Chiba Flour Milling. . A composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise from 0.01% to 8% by weight of gelling agent (s), preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase The compositions according to the invention in the form of oil-in-water emulsions therefore comprise a continuous aqueous phase. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise from 15% to 70%, preferably from 30% to 55%, and preferably from 40% to 50%, by weight of aqueous phase relative to the total weight of said composition. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 30% by weight of water, in particular more than 35% by weight of aqueous phase, and in particular of water, relative to the total weight of said composition .

A water suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water. The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature - 25 ° C.), for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; the polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 26 to 26 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as mono (di-or tripropylene glycol) (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, (C1-C4) alkyl mono, di or triethylene alkyl ethers; glycol, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention comprises phenoxyethanol, butylene glycol, ethanol or a mixture thereof.

The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

Pigment The compositions of the invention comprise at least one pigment. Thus, the compositions according to the invention can also be a mixture of different pigments. The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film. The pigments according to the invention may be uncoated, they will then be in the aqueous phase, or they may be coated with a lipophilic compound and will then be in the fatty phase.

According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise from 0.1% to 30%, and preferably from 1% to 25%, and preferably from 5% to 20%, by weight of pigment particles, optionally coated with at least one lipophilic compound, relative to the total weight of said composition.

As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate. Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least titanium oxides and iron oxides.

Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine lacquers, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo lacquers. pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) described in EP 0 542 669, EP 0 787 730, EP 0 787 731 and WO 96/08537.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pigment particles are particles of iron oxides and / or titanium oxide, which may optionally be coated with a lipophilic compound selected from the group consisting of disodium stearoyl glutamate, trisostearyl isopropyl titanate, dimethicone, triethoxy caprylylsilane, hydrogenated lecithin and mixtures thereof.

Coated pigment The compositions of the invention may also comprise at least one pigment coated with a lipophilic compound. They may therefore comprise mixtures of coated pigments of different nature.

These coated pigments will also be referred to as "hydrophobic pigments". The particle size of the coated pigment is strictly greater than 100 nm. For the purposes of the invention, the "size" of a particle means its D50. The D50, or volume mean size, corresponds to the particle size defined so that 50% by volume of the particles are smaller than D50.

The average volume size can be appreciated by diffraction of light using a Malvern MasterSizer laser granulometer, said particles to be evaluated being dispersed in a liquid medium such as, for example, octyldodecyl neopentanoate. According to one embodiment, the size of the pigment particles according to the invention ranges from 100 nm to 25 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 10 μm. The pigments are treated and / or hydrophobically coated so as to be in the fatty phase. of the emulsion, that is to say in the internal phase. The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound. For the purposes of the invention, the coating of a pigment according to the invention generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment. The coating of the pigment particles according to the invention may be partial or total. In the context of the present invention, "partial coating" means that the pigment is coated with at least one coating layer in a proportion of 50% to 99.9% of the surface of said pigment. According to the invention, the coating of the pigments may comprise one or more lipophilic compounds, and optionally also one or more non-lipophilic compounds. The coated pigments according to the invention are obtained by total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a lipophilic compound (or surfactant). This surfactant is thus absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigments / nacres.

The surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical surface-treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used. The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond. According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of solid particles. The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

The coating may be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simply stirring the particles and said surfactant, possibly with heating, before the incorporation of the particles into the particles. other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

The coating may be carried out for example by chemically reacting a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creating a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,578,266. The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent. so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments. Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from the group consisting of silicone surface-active agents, fluorinated surface-active agents and fluorosilicone surfactants, metal soaps, N-acyl amino acids or their salts, lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes, fatty esters, phospholipids and mixtures thereof. Silicone surface agent According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be surface-treated wholly or partially with a compound of silicone nature.

The silicone surfactants may be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof. By organopolysiloxane compound is meant a compound having a structure comprising an alternation of silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and including organic radicals bonded to silicon atoms. i) Non-Elastomeric Organopolysiloxane Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes that may especially be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogensiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes. The alkoxy group may be represented by the radical R-O- such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

A method for surface-treating pigments with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane is to disperse the pigments in an organic solvent and then to add the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment. According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surface agent may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, especially chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes. ii) Alkylsilanes and Alkoxysilanes Alkoxy functional silanes are described in particular by Witucki in "Silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxy silanes, Journal of Coatings technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993".

Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes marketed under the references Silquest A-137 (OSI Specialties) and Prosil 9202 (PCR) can be used for coating the pigments.

The use of alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive end group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino or imino are described in JP application H07196946. They are also suitable for the treatment of pigments. Silicone-Acrylate Polymers Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone as described in US Pat. No. 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US Pat. US 5,468,477, and US 5,219,560 and EP 0388,582 may be used. Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers having in their structure the unit of formula (I) below: ## STR1 ## ) b (G 2), 7S-G 4 (G 2), TS-G 3 G 1 (I) in which the radicals G 1, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen, a C 1 -C 10 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; the radicals G2, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; G4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one hydrophobic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation; m and n are 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer ranging from 10 to 350, c is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0. Preferably, the unit of formula (I) above has at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics: radicals G1 denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical; n is non-zero, and the radicals G 2 represent a divalent C 1 -C 3 radical, preferably a propylene radical; - G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type monomer, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; G 4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the (C 1 -C 10) alkyl (meth) acrylate type, preferably of the isobutyl or methyl (meth) acrylate type; . Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting link, mixed polymeric units of the poly (meth) acid type. acrylic and of the poly (meth) acrylate type. Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, by means of a thiopropylene type connecting member, polymer units of the poly (meth) type. isobutyl acrylate. iv) Silicone resins The silicone surface agent can be chosen from silicone resins. By "resin" is meant a three-dimensional structure.

Silicone resins can be soluble or swellable in silicone oils. These resins are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The nomenclature of the silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described as a function of the different siloxane monomer units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH 3) 3 SiO 1/2, the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit. The letter D signifies a difunctional unit (CH 3) 2 SiO 2, in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms.

The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (CH3) SiO3,2. In the units M, D and T defined above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted by a group R other than the methyl group such as a hydrocarbon radical (especially alkyl) having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or else a hydroxyl group.

Lastly, the letter Q signifies a tetra-functional SiO4.2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, themselves linked to the rest of the polymer. Various resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the type and number of substituted radicals, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the hanging chains. By way of example of these silicone resins, mention may be made of: siloxysilicates which may be trimethylsiloxysilicates of formula [(CH 3) 3 SiO] x (SiO 4, 2) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, polysilesquioxanes of formula (CH3SiO3,2) x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and at least one of the methyl radicals may be substituted with a group R as defined above, polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in US Pat. No. 5,246,694. By way of examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units CH3SiO3,2 (T units), which can also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH3) 2SiO2,2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000, 25 - by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH3SiO3,2 and have Si-OH end groups (silanol), under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or alternatively under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups. As siloxysilicate resins, there may be mentioned trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the references SR1000, .E. 1 170-002 or SS 4230, by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC or under the references TMS 803, WACKER 803 and 35 804 by the company WACKER SILICONE CORPORATION.

The trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by Dow Corning, may also be mentioned.

By way of example of commercial treatments for treating the pigments with a silicone compound, mention may be made of: a Triethoxycaprylylsilane treatment such as the AS surface treatment marketed by LCW; an octyltriethylsilane treatment such as the OTS surface treatment marketed by Daito; a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW; a dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW or the SA SA from Miyoshi; A dimethicone / trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment such as the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW; and an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment such as the ASC surface treatment marketed by Daito.

Fluoro surface agent The pigments may be surface-treated wholly or partially with a compound of a fluorinated nature. The fluorinated surfactants may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylene (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides and polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups. The term "perfluoroalkyl radical" means an alkyl radical in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms. Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in patent application EP 0 486 135 and sold under the trade names FOMBLIN by MONTEFLUOS. Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in application JP H05-86984. The perfluoroalkyl phosphate-diethanolamine sold by Asahi Glass under the reference AsahiGuard AG530 can be used.

Among the linear perfluoroalkanes, there may be mentioned perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, aromatic perfluorinated hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and hydrocarbon organo-perfluorinated compounds comprising at least one heteroatom. Among the perfluoroalkanes, there may be mentioned the series of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), there may be mentioned perfluorodecalin sold under the name "FLUTEC PP5 GMP" by Rhodia, perfluoro (methyldecalin), perfluoro (C3-C5 alkylcyclohexanes) such as perfluoro ( butylcyclohexane). Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes, mention may be made of the bicyclo [3.3.1] nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo [3.3.1] nonane, the adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane and the perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosafluoro- tetradecahydrophenanthrene. Among the perfluoroarenes, there may be mentioned perfluorinated derivatives of naphthalene such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphthalene.

By way of example of commercial treatments for treating the pigments with a fluorinated compound, mention may be made of: a perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment marketed by LCW; and perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment such as the PF surface treatment marketed by Daito. Fluoro-silicone surface-active agent The pigments can be totally or partially surface-treated with a fluoro-silicone compound. The fluoro-silicone compound may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes. As perfluoroalkyl silanes, mention may be made of LP-IT and LP-4T products marketed by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

The perfluoroalkyl dimethicones may be represented by the following formula: ## STR2 ## wherein: R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group; Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical, having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and m is chosen from 0 to 150, preferably from 20 to 100, and n is chosen from 1 to 300, preferably from 1 to 100. By way of example of commercial treatments for treating the pigments with a fluoro-silicone compound, mention may be made of: an acrylate copolymer treatment / Dimethicone and Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito; a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito; an Octyltriethylsilane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the surface treatment FOIS marketed by Daito; and a perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane treatment such as the FHS surface treatment marketed by Daito. Other lipophilic surfactants The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate. As metal soaps, mention may be made in particular of metal fatty acid soaps having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

The metal metal soap may in particular be zinc or magnesium. As the metal soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof can be used. The fatty acid may in particular be chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and palmitic acid. The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from N-acyl amino acids or their salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl or myristoyl group. , palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl.

The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, for example stearoyl glutamate. aluminum. The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from: lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, natural vegetable or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes, fatty esters, in particular by jojoba esters, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.

The waxes mentioned in the compounds mentioned above may be those generally used in the cosmetics field. They can in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

In particular, the polar waxes are as defined above and have a mean parameter of solubility Elp, HANSEN at 25 ° C such that EIA> 0 (J / cm3) 112 and better EIA> 1 (J / cm3) 112, Elp, being as defined above. By way of example of commercial treatments for treating the pigments with a compound mentioned above, mention may be made of: a Lauroyl Lysine treatment such as the LL surface treatment marketed by LCW; A Lauroyl Lysine Dimethicone treatment such as the LL / SI surface treatment marketed by LCW; a magnesium Myristate treatment such as the MM surface treatment marketed by LCW; A hydrogenated lecithin treatment such as the HLC surface treatment marketed by LCW; an aluminum dimyristate treatment such as the MI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the HS surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; a Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate treatment such as the NAI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; a Dimethicone / Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate treatment such as the SA / NAI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; A Hydrogenated Stearyl Olive Ester treatment such as the MiyoNAT surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; a Lauryl Lysine / Aluminum Tristearate treatment such as the LL-StAl surface treatment marketed by Daito; an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito; and a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito. The pigments coated according to the invention with at least one lipophilic compound may be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30%, better still from 1% to 20%, by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants, fluorinated surfactants, N-acyl amino acids or their salts, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, hydrogenated lecithin, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pigments used are particles of iron oxides and / or titanium oxide coated with a lipophilic compound selected from the group consisting of disodium stearoyl glutamate, trisostearyl titanate 3029414 38 isopropyl, dimethicone, triethoxy caprylylsilane, hydrogenated lecithin and mixtures thereof. Hydrophilic or Water-Soluble Gelling Agent The cosmetic compositions of the invention may further comprise a hydrophilic or water-soluble gelling agent as defined below. They may also comprise a mixture of several hydrophilic or water-soluble gelling agents as defined below. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 5%, and preferably from 0.1% to 3%, by weight of hydrophilic gelling agent active material or water-soluble relative to the total weight of said composition. As hydrophilic or water-soluble gelling agents, mention may be made of: the homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and their esters and in particular the products sold under the names "VERSICOL F" or "VERSICOL K" by the company ALLIED COLLOID, "UTRAHOLD 8" by the company CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of SYNTHALEN K type, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names "RETEN" by the company HERCULES, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name "DARVAN No. 7" by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name "HYDAGEN F" by the company HENKEL, - the polyacrylic acid copolymers / alkyl acrylates of the PEMULEN type, - AMPS (Partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid) marketed by the CLARIANT company, the AMPS / acrylamide copolymers of the SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type sold by the company SEPPIC, and the polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or otherwise) and their mixtures. As other examples of water-soluble gelling polymers, mention may be made of: proteins, such as proteins of vegetable origin, such as wheat or soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonics; Anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, and quaternized cellulose derivatives; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; associative polyurethanes such as the C16-0E120-C16 polymer from the company Servo Delden (sold under the name SER AD FX1100, urethane function molecule and the weight average molecular weight of 1300), EO being an oxyethylenated unit, the rheolate 205 with a urea function sold by RHEOX or again with Rheolate 208 or 204 (these polymers being sold in pure form) or DW 1206B from RHOM & HAAS with 0.20 alkyl chain and with urethane bond, sold at 20% by weight. dry in water. It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes, especially in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. By way of examples of such polymers, mention may be made of the SER AD 20 fx1010, the SER AD FX1035 and the SER AD 1070 from the company SERVO DELDEN, the Rheolate 255, the Rheolate 278 and the Rheolate 244 sold by the company RHEOX. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J, as well as Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from Rhom & Haas, or else Borchigel LW 44 from Borchers, the original polymers. natural, possibly modified, such as: - Arabic gums, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; alginates and carrageenans; glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; 30 - shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; deoxyribonucleic acid; and mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulphates, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is xanthan gum. The xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1,000,000 g / mol and 50,000,000 g / mol and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% of xanthan gum ( measured at 25 ° C. on the Brookfield viscometer, type LVT at 60 all per minute). Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company RHODIA CHIMIE, under the name SATIAXANETM by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry), under the name NOVAXANTM by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco. Surfactant The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one surfactant. This surfactant is selected from surfactants well known to those skilled in the art. They may also include mixtures of several different surfactants.

Among the surfactants, there may be mentioned nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least one nonionic surfactant, or a mixture of several nonionic surfactants.

Nonionic Surfactant The nonionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, polyoxyethylenated or unsaturated polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, polyoxyethylenated or unsubstituted alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, sucrose alkyl and polyalkyl esters, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glucose, polyoxyethylenated or unsubstituted glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl esters, glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, whether or not polyoxyethylenated, geminate surfactants; silicone surfactants, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. 1) Poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters are preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of from 2 to 200. For example, the PEG-8 stearate product, which is marketed under the trade name Myrj S8 SO by Croda, stearate 40 0E, stearate 50 OE, stearate 100 OE, laurate 20 OE, laurate 40 0E, distearate 150 0E. (2) Poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers are preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of from 2 to 200. For example, cetyl ether 23 0E, oleyl ether 50 OE, phytosterol 30E, steareth 40, steareth 100, beheneth 100. 3) As oxyalkylenated alcohols, especially oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene, those which comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular containing from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular ethoxylated, in particular C 5 -C 24 and preferably C 12 -C 18 fatty alcohols, which may be ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated, by for example, stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units (INCI name Steareth-20), for example Brij 78 sold by Uniqema, ethylene cetyl alcohol ethoxylated with 30 oxyethylene units (INCI name: Ceteareth-30), and the mixture of fatty alcohols in C1 2-C15 comprising 7 oxyethylene units (INCI name: C12-C15 Pareth-7), for example the product sold under the name Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals; or in particular oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) alcohols containing from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular C 5 -C 24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols, and preferably C 12 -C 15 fatty alcohols, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with two oxyethylenic units (INCI name: Steareth-2), for example the Brij 72 product sold by Uniqema. 4) Polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters are preferably used with those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) ranging from 0 to 100. For example, laurate may be mentioned. sorbitan 4 or 20 OE, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) such as Tween 20 sold by Uniqema, sorbitan palmitate 20 0E, sorbitan stearate 20 OE, oleate Sorbitan 20 OE or Cremophor (RH 40, RH 60 ...) from BASF. There may also be mentioned the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (sold under the name Arlacel 2121 U-FL by Croda). (5) Polyoxyethylenated or unsubstituted polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers are preferably used with a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) ranging from 0 to 100. 6) As alkyl- and polyalkyl- glucosides or polyglucosides, those containing an alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18 or even 8 to 16 carbon atoms and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5, especially 1, 2 to 3 units of glucoside. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen for example from decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9 / Cl-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by Henkel and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis or ORAMIX CG 110® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel; cocoglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by Henkel; caprylylglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by Cognis; the mixture of arachidyl glucoside and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol, whose INCI name is Arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside, sold under the trade name Montanov 202 by the company Seppic; cetearylglucoside, sold under the trade name Tego Care CG 90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt; methyl glucose sesquistearate sold under the trade name Glucate SS emulsifier by Lubrizol; the mixture of C12-C20 alkylglucoside and C14-C22 alcohol (INCI name: C14-C22 alcohol (and) C12-C20 alkylglucoside) sold under the trade name Montanov L by the company Seppic; and their mixtures. 7) As sucrose alkyl and polyalkyl esters, in particular C 12 -C 26 alkyl esters, mention may be made, for example, of sucrose stearate, sold in particular under the trade name Tegosoft PSE 141 G by the company 3029414. Evonik Goldschmidt; the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (sold under the trade name Arlatone Arlacel 2121 U-FL by Croda), Crodesta F150, sucrose monolaurate marketed under the name Crodesta SL 40, the products marketed by Ryoto Sugar Ester 5 for example, sucrose palmite marketed under the reference Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA 1695, Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570. 8) As polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, Those having a number of units of ethylene oxide (OE) ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30 are preferably used. Examples that may be mentioned include PEG-150 distearate sold under the Kessco PEG 6000 DS trade name by ltalmatch Chemicals Arese; hexaglyceryl monolaurate; the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate whose INCI name is glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, sold under the trade name Tego Care 180 by the company Evonik Goldscmidt or under the trade name Arlacel 165-FL- (CQ) by the company Croda or under the trade name Simulsol 165 by the company Seppic; the mixture of methylglucose distearate and polyglyceryl (INCI name: polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate) sold under the trade name Tego Care 450 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt; the citric and stearic polyglycerol ester (INCI name: polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate) sold under the trade name Tego Care PSC 3 by Evonik Goldschmidt and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate. 9) As polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ether ethers, those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 are preferably used. By way of example, mention may be made of Nikkol Batyl alcohol 100 and Nikkol chemyl alcohol 100. 10) cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol; 11) Gemini surfactants which may be mentioned include the mixture of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine and butylene glycol (INCI name: sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine) sold under the trade name Pellicer LB -30G by Asahi Kasei Chemicals. The gemini surfactants may also meet the following formula (I): embedded image in which: R 1 and R 3 represent, independently of one another, a radical alkyl containing from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 represents a spacer group consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y represent, independently of one another, a group - (C2H40) a (C3H60) bZ, in which: Z represents a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, 1 () -P (O) (OM) 2, -C 2 H 4 -SO 3 M, -C 3 H 6 -SO 3 M or -CH 2 (CHOH) 4 CH 2 OH, wherein M and M 'represent H or an alkali or alkaline earth metal ion or an ion ammonium or alkanolammonium; a varies from 0 to 15; b varies from 0 to 10; and the sum of a + b varies from 1 to 25; and n ranges from 1 to 10. The gemini surfactant of formula (I) is preferably such that each of R 1 -CO- and R 3 -CO- comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably represents a residue. of coconut fatty acid (mainly comprising lauric acid and myristic acid). Moreover, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and ba has an average value ranging from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the group - SO 3 M, where M is preferably an alkali metal ion such as sodium ion. The spacer R2 advantageously consists of a linear C1-C18 alkylene chain, and preferably an ethylene chain (CH2CH2). Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1. A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name: Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure: ## STR2 ## It is understood that PEG represents the group CH 2 CH 2 O and that cocoyl represents the coconut fatty acid residue. ## STR2 ## This surfactant has a molecular structure very similar to that of ceramide-3.

Preferably, the geminate surfactant according to the invention is used in admixture with other surfactants, and in particular as a mixture with (a) an ester of a C 6 -C 22 (preferably C 14 -C 20) fatty acid, such as stearate) and glyceryl, (b) a diester of a C6-C22 (preferably C14-C20) fatty acid such as stearate) and citric acid and glycerol (particularly a diester of a fatty acid C6-C22 and glyceryl monocitrate), and (c) a C10-C30 fatty alcohol (preferably behenic alcohol). Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate monocitrate and behenic alcohol.

Preferably, the geminate surfactant according to the invention represents from 10% to 20% by weight, and advantageously 15% by weight; the fatty acid ester of 06022 and glyceryl is from 30% to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight; the diester of the C 6 -C 22 fatty acid and of citric acid and of glycerol represents from 10% to 20% by weight, advantageously 15% by weight; and the C 10 -C 30 fatty alcohol is from 30% to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the surfactant mixture containing the geminate surfactant. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of 10% to 20% by weight of sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, from 30% to 40% (in particular 35%) by weight of glyceryl stearate, from 10% to 20% (in particular 15%) by weight of glyceryl stearate monocitrate and from 30% to 40% (in particular 35%) by weight of behenic alcohol, relative to the total weight of the surfactant mixture comprising the geminate surfactant.

For example, the geminate surfactant can be used as a mixture with other surfactants in the form of products sold by Sasol under the trade name Ceralution®, such as in particular the following products: 5-Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name), - Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name), - Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabic, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI name). The gemini surfactant represents from 3% to 50% by weight of these mixtures.

Preferably, the composition comprises, as a gemini surfactant, the compound INCI name: Behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, sold under the trade name Ceralution® H by the company Sasol. 12) the term "silicone surfactant" refers to a silicone compound comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain, in particular comprising at least one oxyethylenated (-OCH 2 CH 2 -) and / or oxypropylenated (-OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -) chain and / or a polyglycerolated chain. As the silicone surfactant, there may be mentioned as examples polydimethylsiloxanes comprising both oxyethylenic groups and oxypropylene groups. For example, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxane with an oxyethylene / oxypropylene end-point sold as a mixture with caprylic / capric acid triglycerides sold under the trade name Abil care 85 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt (INCI name: BIS-PEG / PPG-16 / PEG / PPG-16/16 Dimethicone / Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), polydimethylsiloxane comprising an alpha-omega polyether group (0E / OP: 40/60), sold under the trade name Abil B8832 by the company Goldschmidt (INCI name BISPEG / PPG-20/20 Dimethicone), the oxyethylenated oxypropylene polydimethylsiloxane sold under the trade name Abil B88184 by the company Goldschmidt (INCI name: PEG / PPG-20/6 Dimethicone), the polydimethylsiloxane with oxyethylene / oxypropylene termination, sold under the trade name Abil Care XL 80 by Evonik Goldscmidt (INCI name: BIS-PEG / PPG-20/5 PEG / PPG20 / 5 3029414 47 Dimethicone; Methoxy PEG / PPG-25/4) Dimethic one; caprylic / capric triglyceride and oxyethylenated oxypropylene polydimethyl / methylsiloxane sold under the trade name Abil B8852 by the company Goldschmidt (INCI name: PEG / PPG-4/12 Dimethicone), and mixtures thereof. Alternatively, the silicone surfactant may also be a polydimethylsiloxane with polyglyceryl chains, such as 3-polyglyceryl polymethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, 3-laurylpolyglyceryl-3-polymethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone and 3-polyglyceryl-disiloxane dimethicone and mixtures thereof. Such silicone surfactants are described in patent application EP 1 213 316. According to one particular embodiment, the silicone surfactant is a polyglyceryl-3-disiloxane dimethicone sold under the trade name KF 6100 by the company Shin Etsu. 13) and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least one polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylated alkyl- and polyalkyl ester of glycerol. Preferably, there may be mentioned the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG100 stearate whose INCI name is glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, sold under the trade name Tego Care 180 by the company Evonik Goldscmidt 20 or under the trade name Arlacel 165-FL- (CQ) by the company Croda or under the trade name Simulsol 165 by the company Seppic. Anionic Surfactant The anionic surfactants can be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides and metal salts. fatty acids in 010-030, in particular C12-O20, in particular metal stearates and mixtures thereof. 1) Alkyl ether sulphates include, for example, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70-30) (2.2 OE) sold under the names SIPON AOS225 or TEXAPON N702 by the company Henkel, lauryl ether ammonium sulphate (C12-14 70-30) (30E) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370 by the company Henkel, the alkyl (C12-O14) ether (90E) ammonium sulphate sold under the name RHODAPEX AB / 20 by Rhodia Chimie, and the mixture of lauryl and sodium and magnesium oleyl ether sulphate sold under the name EMPICOL BSD 52 by Albright & Wilson. 2) As carboxylates, there may be mentioned, for example, the salts (for example alkaline) of N-acylamino acids, glycolcarboxylates, amido ether carboxylates (AEC) and polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts. The glycol carboxylate type surfactant may be chosen from alkylglycol carboxylic or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxyacetate), their salts and mixtures thereof. These alkyl glycol carboxylic acids comprise a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic and / or aromatic, having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. These carboxylic acids can be neutralized with mineral bases such as potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide. As surfactants of the carboxylic glycol type, mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate or sodium 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy acetate), such as the product sold under the name Beaulight Shaa® by the company Sanyo, Beaulight LCA-25N ® or the corresponding acid form Beaulight Shaa (Acid form) ®. As amido ether carboxylate (AEC), mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (30E), sold under the name AKYPO FOAM 30® by the company Kao Chemicals.

As the polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salt, mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (C12_14_16 65/25/10) oxyethylenated (6 OE) sold under the name AKYPO SOFT 45 NV® by the company Kao Chemicals, the acids polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated olive oil of the origin marketed under the name OLIVEM 400® by the company BIOLOGIA E TECNOLOGIA, the oxyethylenated tri-decyl ether carboxylate (60E) marketed under the trademark NIKKOL ECTD-6NEX® by the company Nikkol company. 3) As amino acid derivatives, there may be mentioned in particular the alkaline salts of amino acids, such as: sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name SARKOSYL NL 97® by the company Ciba or sold under the name ORAMIX L 30® by Seppic, the sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN® by Nikkol, the sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN® by the company Nikkol. Alaninates, such as the sodium N-lauroyl-N-methyl amidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by the company Nikkol, or sold under the name Alanone Ale® by the company Kawaken, N-lauroyl N methyl alanine triethanolamine sold under the name ALANONE ALTA® by the company Kawaken. glutamates, such as the triethanolamine mono-cocoyl glutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-12® by the company Ajinomoto, the triethanolamine lauroylglutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12® by the company Ajinomoto.

The salts and / or derivatives of glutamic acid are further described below. aspartates, such as the mixture of N-lauroyl aspartate triethanolamine / N-myristoyl aspartate triethanolamine marketed under the name ASPARACK® by the company Mitsubishi. Glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as the sodium N-cocoyl glycinate sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by the company Ajinomoto. citrates, such as the mono-citric ester of oxyethylenated coconut alcohols (9 moles), sold under the name WITCONOL EC 1129 by the company Goldschmidt. galacturonates, such as the sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate marketed by Soliance. 4) As sulphonates, mention may be made, for example, of alpha-olefin sulphonates, such as the sodium alpha-olefin sulphonate (C14-16) sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40® by the company Stepan, sold under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE® and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12® by the company Witco or sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG® by Stepan, the secondary sodium olefin sulfonate marketed under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 30® by the company Clariant; 5) As isethionates, mention may be made of acylisethionates such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name JORDAPON Cl P® by the company Jordan. 6) As taurates, mention may be made of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON CT PAIE® by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, such as the sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF® by the company 3029414 Clariant or sold under the name NIKKOL CMT-30-T® by the company Nikkol, palmitoyl sodium methyltaurate sold under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol. 7) As sulfosuccinates, there may be mentioned, for example, the oxyethylenated (30E) lauryl alcohol (C12 / C14 70/30) mono-sulfosuccinate sold under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL®, REWOPOL SBFA 30 K 4® by the company Witco, the di-sodium salt of a hemi-sulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, sold under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated di-sodium oléamidosulfosuccinate 10 (20E) sold under the name STANDAPOL SH 135® by Henkel, the oxyethylenated lauric amide mono-sulfosuccinate (50E) marketed under the name LEBON A-5000® by the company Sanyo, the di-sodium salt of oxyethylenated lauryl citrate monosulfinate ( 10 0E) marketed under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50® by the company Witco, the ricinoleic mono-ethanolamide mono-sulfosuccinate sold under the name REWODERM S 1333® by the company Witco. It is also possible to use polydimethylsiloxane sulphosuccinates such as the disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulphosuccinate marketed under the name MACKANATE-DC30 by Mac Intyre. 8) As alkyl sulphoacetate, mention may be made, for example, of the mixture of sodium lauryl sulphoacetate and di-sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate sold under the name STEPAN-MILD LSB by Stepan. 9) Phosphates and alkylphosphates include, for example, monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl mono-phosphate sold under the name MAP 20® by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecyl acid; phosphoric mixture of mono- and di-ester (diester majority) sold under the name CRAFOL AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of monoester and octylphosphoric acid di-ester, sold under the name CRAFOL AP- 20® by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and diester of ethoxylated 2-butyloctanol phophoric acid (7 moles of EO), sold under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTER® by the company Condea, the potassium salt or triethanolamine monoalkyl (C12-C13) phosphate sold under the references ARLATONE MAP 230K-40® and ARLATONE MAP 230T-60® by the company Uniqema 35, lauryl potassium phosphate commercia DERMALCARE MAP XC-99 / 09® by the company Rhodia Chimie, and the potassium cetyl phosphate 3029414 51 marketed under the name ARLATONE MAP 160K by the company Uniqema. 10) The polypeptides are obtained for example by condensation of a fatty chain on the amino acids of cereals and in particular wheat and oats.

As polypeptides, there may be mentioned, for example, the potassium salt of hydrolysed lauroyl wheat protein, sold under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by the company Croda, the triethanolamine salt of cocoyl soy protein hydrolysed, sold under the name MAY- TEIN SY by the company Maybrook, the sodium salt of lauroyl amino acids of oats, sold under the name PROTEOL OAT by the company Seppic, the collagen hydrolyzate grafted on the coconut fatty acid, marketed under the name GELIDERM 3000 by the company Deutsche Gelatin, soy proteins acylated with hydrogenated copra acids, sold under the name PROTEOL VS 22 by the company Seppic. 11) As metal salts of C 10 -C 30 fatty acids, in particular C 12 -C 20, mention may in particular be made of metal stearates, such as sodium stearate and potassium stearate, as well as polyhydroxy stearates. Charge 20 The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or inorganic nature, allowing, in particular, to impart to them additional properties of dullness, coverage, strength and / or improved stability. By "filler" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to makeup. The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other form intermediate between these defined forms. The fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler. the composition.

As examples of mineral fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride and microcapsules. glass or ceramic, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG 5 series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass. According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise mica as a filler. Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned are polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene, polymethylmethacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap of the company). Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Toshiki Plastic Powder), microbeads of silicone resin (Toshiba Tospearl, for example) synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, especially silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793, polyurethane powders, in particular cross-linked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyl lactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example, under the name PLASTIC POWDER D400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® from TOSHIKI, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one silicone filler, and in particular that sold under the name KSG1 6® by the company Shin-Etsu. Additives A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example chosen from gums, resins, dispersing agents, polymers, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptic agents, UV protective agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizing, emollient or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.

It is a routine practice for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof not affected.

Cosmetic Compositions The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above. By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the skin or the lips. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.

Applications The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined above. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous substances, in particular the skin, comprising a step of applying to the keratin materials, in particular to the skin, at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined above. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be skincare products, face or body make-up products. In particular, they can be in the form of foundation.

The compositions of the invention are therefore especially intended to be applied to the skin.

Throughout the application, the wording "comprising a" or "comprising a" means "comprising at least one" or "comprising at least" one unless the contrary is specified. Throughout the above description, unless otherwise stated, the term "inclusive (e) between x and y" corresponds to an inclusive range, i.e. the x and y values are included in the range.

EXAMPLES Compositions according to the invention with wax (es) as well as comparative compositions without wax were prepared and their application, coverage and homogenization properties were evaluated. Protocol for preparing said compositions The main beaker was weighed and the phase A compounds were weighed in the main beaker and stirred with the moritz. The compounds of the A2 phase were introduced and left under homogenization with the moritz. Then, the pigments were milled in 10 g of water and Al and this ground material was introduced into the main beaker and allowed to homogenize until the color development was good, controlling that the temperature in the beaker was about 68 ° C. Phase A3 was added at a temperature below 68 ° C and allowed to homogenize for 5 minutes. In an auxiliary beaker, the compounds of phase B were melted and the beaker temperature was monitored by maintaining it at 68 ° C. Then, the annex beaker phase was added to the main beaker and the whole was emulsified with vigorous stirring at the moritz for 10 minutes while maintaining the temperature at 68 ° C. After 10 minutes of emulsification, it was allowed to cool with normal Rayneri stirring and then at 30 ° C phase C was introduced. Once the water tare is made, the formula is finalized. Cosmetic compositions with and without waxes were prepared according to the tables below.

Examples 1 and 2 according to the invention comprise a paraffin wax and an ester wax, respectively, whereas Comparative Example 3 does not comprise a wax according to the invention.

3029414 56 Phase INCI Chemical Name Reference Ex.

1 Ex.

2 Ex. 3 commercial (inv.) (Inv.) (Comp.) (Supplier) ACID ETHYLENE DISODIUM EDTA DISSOLVINE NA2-S 0.05 0.05 0.05 TETRACETIC DIAMINE, (AKZO NOBEL) DISODIUM SALT, 2 H2O Al TITANIUM OXIDE TITANIUM DIOXIDE HOMBITAN FF 12.98 12.98 12.98 (ANATASE UNTREATED) PHARMA (CI: 77891) (SACHTLEBEN) Al IRON RED IRON OXIDE OXIDE SUNPURO RED IRON 0.4 0.4 0.4 (CI: 77491) OXIDE C33-8001 (SUN) Al IRON YELLOW IRON OXIDE OXIDE IRON OXIDE C33-9001 1.5 1.5 1.5 (CI: 77492) SUNPURO YELLOW (SUN) Al IRON OXIDE BLACK IRON OXIDE IRON OXIDE C33-7001 0.12 0.12 0.12 (CI: 77499) SUNPURO BLACK (SUN) TO 2-PHENOXYETHANOL PH ENOXYETHANOL NEOLONE PH 100 0.4 0.4 0.4 PRESERVATIVE (DOW CHEMICAL) A3 CHLORHEXIDINE CHLORHEXIDINE CHLOREXIDINE 0.25 0.25 0.25 GLUCONATE DIGLUCONATE DIGLUCONATE AQUEOUS SOLUTION USP SOLUTION (SCHUTZ DISHMAN BIOTECH) B CETEARYL ALCOHOL NAFOL 1618 IN 1 1 1 CETYLSTEARYLIC ALCOHOL (SASOL) (C16 / C18 / 50/50) B PARAFFIN WAXES AND PARAFFIN PASTILLES SASOLWAX 5603 (1,516 CERAFFINE WAXES 56-58 SASOL) HYDROCARBONS (BAERLOCHER STABILIZED TRIBEHENIN TRIBEHENATE SYNCROWAX HRC- 1,516 GLYCEROL PA- (RB) SYNCROWAX HRC-PA- (MH) (CRODA) B ISOPARAFFIN (6-8 HYDROGENATED PARLEAM (NOF 20 20 20 MOLES OF ISOBUTYLENE) POLYISOBUTENE CORPORATION) HYDROGENEE A2 XANTHAN GUM XANTHAN GUM RHODICARE XC 0.2 0.2 0.2 KELTROL CG (RHODIA SOLVAY CP KELCO) Al COPOLYMERS ACID RSY15007 VERSION 0.65 0.65 0.65 METHACRYLIC CO COSMETIC POE METHACRYLATE (ARKEMA-COATEX) PPO OH: POLYETHER POLYCARBONATE, SODIUM SALT IN AQUEOUS SOLUTION B POLY DIMETHICONE ELEMENT14 PDMS 10- 5 5 DIMETHYLSILOXANE TO XIAMETER PMX-200 (VISCOSITY: 10 CST) SILICONE FLUID 10CS (MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS DOW CORNING) B MIXTURE OF POLY DIMETHICONE KSG 16 7 7 7 DIMETHYLSILOXANE RETICLE AND POLY DIMETHYLSILOXANE (6 (and) (SHIN ETSU) CST) (24/76) DIMETHICONE / YL WINE DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER A2 1,3-BUTYLENE GLYCOL BUTYLENE 1, 3 BUTYLENE 5 5 GLYCOL GLYCOL (DAICEL) C ALCOHOL ETHYL ALCOHOL DENATE ETHANOL S DA 40B 5 5 5 ABSOLUTE DENATURE '200 PROOF (SASOL) WITH WATER DESIONIZED WATER qsp qsp qsp MICROBIOLOGICALLY 100 100 100 CLEAN 3029414 57 B MIXTURE GLYCERYL TECO CARS 180 3 3 3 MONO / DISTEARATE FROM STEARATE (and) ARLACEL 165-FL- ( CQ) GLYCERYLE / STEARATE PEG-100 (POLYETHYLENE EVONIK STEARATE GOLDSCHMIDT GLYCOL (100 OE) CRODA) Evaluation Protocol for the Compositions The various compositions were evaluated in terms of their appearance and their cosmetics, in particular their application properties. , coverage and homogenization. In order to characterize in vitro one of the components of the play-time, namely the in vitro gliding of the deposits, tribological measurements were carried out on the formulas with and without waxes (examples 1 to 3). + Application Tribology is the science and technology of friction. It makes it possible to study the behavior of a material under the effect of friction and gives an indication of the sliding in vitro. The gliding vitro is measured by a measurement of friction on a tribometer of the pion-disk type (CSM instrument), the coefficient of friction being supposed to be related to the percentage of sliding of the formulas perceived vivo. The measurement is carried out on a Supplal support (in vitro substitute for the skin) on which the wet deposition preheated to 35 ° C. is deposited. A software then analyzes the measurements made. Indeed the software measures the displacement force (tangential force). The normal charge applied to the surface is predefined by the operator. It is from these two parameters that the software calculates the coefficient of friction 1..1, given by the following relation: FT 25 N = FN FT: Tangential force FN: Normal force (load). Then a software allows to visualize in real time the evolution of the coefficient of friction as a function of displacement.

The following observations have been made: The composition of Comparative Example 3 has a high coefficient of friction as a function of the number of revolutions. The composition containing the tribehenin wax (Example 2) has a significantly lower coefficient of friction than the wax-free formula (Comparative Example) as a function of the number of turns. The composition containing the paraffin wax (Example 1) has the lowest coefficient of friction as a function of the number of turns.

In conclusion, the compositions according to the invention have a lower coefficient of friction than compositions without waxes. They are therefore more slippery than the composition without waxes. + Couvrance 15 In order to characterize in vitro the coverage of deposits, applications on the forearm and visualizations by the expert lab are performed. The following results are obtained: Example 3 Example 1 Example 2 (Comparative) Homogenization 0.5 3 3 of the deposit 20 * Scale notation: 0 = bad 5 = very good In order to characterize vivo the coverage of the deposits, the 3 compositions with and without Waxes are evaluated on women by a beautician through measurements, the samba (measuring tool), the immediate color effect.

The results of these in vivo measurements are shown below: Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 without waxes with wax of tribehenin paraffin Color effect 0.99 1.89 1.95 immediate measured in evaluation The composition without wax has no dye effect on the skin after makeup, while the compositions according to the invention have a significant coloring effect on the skin. In conclusion, the compositions according to the invention have the most covering deposits, in comparison with a composition without wax. Homogeneity In order to characterize the homogeneity of the deposits in vitro, visualizations in electronic scanning microcopy (SEM) were carried out according to the following protocol: Visual evaluation of the homogenizing power after application of the compositions 1 to 3 The compositions 1 to 3 are applied on an in vitro skin model, this model representing the cheekbone of a 40-year-old individual. 1 to 2 mg / cm 2 of each of compositions 1 to 3 were thus applied to the finger and then allowed to dry for 24 hours at room temperature. The deposits obtained after application of these compositions have been observed in particular with the Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) (4 or 5 KV with a magnification × 100), thus allowing to have a global vision.

The composition of the Comparative Example exhibits a heterogeneous, porous and highly cracked deposit, while the composition of Example 1 is very homogeneous, smooth and non-porous. Similarly, the composition of Example 2 is also homogeneous and non-porous.

Another composition according to the invention was prepared as follows: Phase INCI Chemical Name US Trade Reference Ex. 4 (Provider) (Invention) ACID ETHYLENE DISODIUM EDTA DISSOLVINE NA2-S 0.05 TETRACETIC DIAMINE, (AKZO NOBEL) DISODIUM SALT, 2 H2O Al TITANIUM OXIDE TITANIUM DIOXIDE HOMBITAN FF PHARMA 12.98 (NON-TREATED ANATASE) (SACHTLEBEN) (CI: 77891) Al IRON RED IRON OXIDE OXIDES SUNPURO RED IRON 0.4 (CI: 77491) OXIDE C33-8001 (SUN) Al YELLOW IRON OXIDE (CI: 77492) SUNPURO YELLOW IRON 1.5 OXIDE OXIDE C33-9001 (SUN) Al OXIDE IRON BLACK (CI: IRON OXIDES SUNPURO BLACK IRON 0.12 77499) OXIDE C33-7001 (SUN) A 2-PHENOXYETHANOL PHENOXYETHANOL NEOLONE PH 100 0.4 PRESERVATIVE (DOW CHEMICAL) A3 CHLORHEXIDINE CHLORHEXIDINE GLUCONATE SOLUTION 0.25 DIGLUCONATE DIGLUCONATE USP (SCHUTZ DISHMAN AQUEOUS SOLUTION CHLOREXIDINE BIOTECH) B ALCOHOL CETEARYL NAFOL 1618 EN (SASOL ) 1 CETYLSTEARYLIC ALCOHOL (C16 / C18 / 50/50) B PARAFFIN WAXES AND PARAFFIN CERAFFIN E 56-58 1.5 SASOLWAX HYDROCARBON PASTILLES 5603 (STABILIZED BAERLOCHER SASOL) B ISOPARAFFIN (6-8 HYDROGENATED PARLEAM (NO. 10 ISOBUTYLENE MOLDS) POLYISOBUTENE CORPORATION) HYDROGENATED A2 XANTHAN GUM XANTHAN GUM RHODICARE XC KELTROL 0, 2 GC (RHODIA SOLVAY CP KELCO) B POLY DIMETHICONE ELEMENT14 PDMS 10-A 5 DIMETHYLSILOXANE XIAMETER PMX-200 (VISCOSITY: 10 CST) SILICONE FLUID 10CS (MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS DOW CORNING) B MIXTURE OF POLY DIMETHICONE (and) KSG 16 (SHIN ETSU) 7 RETICULATED DIMETHYLSILOXANE AND POLY DIMETHYLSILOXANE (6 DIMETHICONE / VINYL CST) (24/76) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER A2 1,3-BUTYLENE GLYCOL BUTYLENE GLYCOL 1,3 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 1,5 (DAICEL) C ALCOHOL ETHYL ALCOHOL DENATE. ETHANOL SDA 40B 200 5 ABSOLUTE DENATURE PROOF (SASOL) WITH WATER DESIONIZED WATER E 100 MICROBIOLOGICALLY WATER DESIONIZED MICROBIOLOGICALLYPROPRO (L'OREAL FACTORY) CLEAN B MIXTURE GLYCERYL TEGO CARE 180 3 MONO / DISTEARATE OF STEARATE (and) ARLACEL 165-FL- ( CQ) GLYCERYLE / STEARATE PEG-100 STEARATE (POLYETHYLENE CRODA EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) GLYCOL (100 OE) 3029414 61 The following results are obtained with Example 4: 5 The rate of 1.5% wax (ie 5% wax) in proportion to the fat phase) corresponds to a state of the unconnected wax crystals which seems to participate in the perceived homogenization performance. Indeed, when the level is greater than 5% in proportion to the fatty phase, the homogenization is less good because there is a connection wax crystals thus limiting the homogenization of the deposit. Example 1 (Invention) Example 3 (comparative) Example 4 (invention) with 5% paraffin wax in proportion to the fat phase with 7.5% paraffin wax in proportion to the fat phase without waxes Effect homogenizing at t. 3h measured in evaluation 3.67 ± 3.31 0.58 ± 3.79 1.29 ± 3.46

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an aqueous phase and a fatty phase, comprising: - at least one wax, - a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one silicone oil, the wax (s) ( s) being insoluble in said liquid fatty phase, in particular in the silicone oil (s), and at least one pigment. 2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one melting peak corresponding to the melting point (s) of the wax (es) according to the invention. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the wax (es) is distinct from a fatty alcohol, in particular distinct from a fatty alcohol consisting of a C16-C22 alkyl chain. 4. Composition according to claim 1, 2 or 3, comprising from 0.1% to 10% by weight of wax (s) relative to the total weight of said composition. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (the) wax (es) are present (s) at a content less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, in particular of the liquid fatty phase. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the wax (es) comprise at least one hydrocarbon wax, in particular a hydrocarbon-based apolar wax, preferably an ester wax. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone oil (s) is (are) preferably non-cyclic, in particular linear or branched, preferably the oil (s). ) silicone (s) is (are) preferably nonvolatile (s), preferably the total content of silicone oil (s) representing 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 3029414 63 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one hydrocarbon oil, preferably apolar, preferably the hydrocarbon oil (s) is (are) nonvolatile (s), preferably the total content of hydrocarbon oil (s) representing from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the liquid fatty phase is from 5% to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of said composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising more than 35% by weight of aqueous phase, and in particular water, relative to the total weight of said composition. 15 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.1% to 30% by weight of pigment particles, optionally coated with at least one lipophilic compound, relative to the total weight of said composition. 20 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the pigment particles are particles of iron oxides and / or titanium oxide, optionally coated with a lipophilic compound chosen from the group consisting of disodium stearoyl glutamate. , isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, dimethicone, triethoxy caprylylsilane, hydrogenated lecithin and mixtures thereof. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one surfactant, preferably at least one nonionic surfactant. 14. Composition, in particular cosmetic, according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of a liquid foundation at a temperature of 25 ° C. 35 3029414 64 15. Cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, in particular non-therapeutic care and / or makeup of keratinous substances, in particular the skin, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous substances, in particular to the skin, of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims.