FR3026951A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A MIXTURE OF ESSENTIAL OILS - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a cedar essential oil, a cypress essential oil, a juniper essential oil, a rosemary essential oil and a Ylang-ylang essential oil and its cosmetic use for the treatment of hair fibers, prevention of hair loss, hair breakage and / or strengthening and / or densification of the hair fiber, and / or hair.The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process non-therapeutic comprising the application of a cosmetic composition comprising a cedar essential oil, a cypress essential oil, a juniper essential oil, a rosemary essential oil and a Ylang-ylang essential oil. The present invention finds application particularly in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a cedar essential oil, a cypress essential oil, a juniper essential oil, a rosemary essential oil and an essential oil. Ylang-ylang essential oil. The present invention also relates to the cosmetic and / or dermatological use of a composition comprising a cedar essential oil, a cypress essential oil, a juniper essential oil, a rosemary essential oil and a Ylang essential oil. -ylang for the treatment of hair fibers, prevention of hair loss, hair breakage and / or strengthening and / or densification of the hair fiber, and / or hair. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method comprising the application of a cosmetic composition comprising a cedar essential oil, a cypress essential oil, a juniper essential oil, a rosemary essential oil and an essential oil of Ylang-ylang. The present invention also relates to a hair treatment kit comprising a hair cosmetic composition comprising a Cedar essential oil, Cypress essential oil, Juniper essential oil, Rosemary essential oil and Ylang essential oil. -ylang. The present invention finds application particularly in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields.

In the description below, references in square brackets ([]) refer to the list of references presented at the end of the text.

3026951 2 State of the Art Hair is part of a complex system called pilosebaceous follicle. They consist of keratin (95%), fats, minerals, water and melanin (colored substances, eumelanin in brown hair and pheomelanin in red, blond or golden brown hair). In the hair, we can distinguish the external visible part of the hair follicle called stem, the internal part called root, the deep inner part of the follicle called bulb where the matrix is at the base. The cells of the matrix have a very high mitotic index and the equivalent of which exists only in the multiplicative activity of the bone marrow. In combination with other proteins, keratins are structured into proto then microfibrils. These are enclosed in an outer envelope, formed of keratinous scales and are very rigid due to the presence of disulfide bridges between the keratin proteins. Keratin and other keratin-associated proteins give the hair the strength and relative elasticity of the hair. Numerous compositions exist in the state of the art in order to improve the appearance and the resistance of the hair, in particular of the sheathing compositions, for example masks, balms, serum, spray, which make it possible to improve the appearance of the hair. aspect of the hair. In particular, the known hair compositions, in particular for improving the appearance of the hair, for example their gloss, and / or their softness and / or to protect them from external aggression, include in particular silicones. In particular hydrophobic silicones, are known to allow, in particular to protect the hair fiber from moisture, oxidation. In addition, the hair compositions comprising silicones make it possible, in particular to cover the hair, the capillary fibers of a smooth film, thus facilitating disentangling, brushing and smoothing of the hair.

However, after several applications of composition comprising silicones, the latter can accumulate on the hair and form, instead of a smooth and shiny appearance, a greasy appearance. In addition, the accumulation of silicones on the hair fibers can cause "choking" and / or weighting of the hair and / or capillary fibers that may cause breakage and / or alteration of the hair fiber. In addition, silicones are compounds obtained by chemical synthesis from, in particular pure silicon, obtained from quartz by electrometallurgy. These are non-biodegradable compounds that can, in extreme cases, be the source of pollution and / or ecological problems. There is therefore a real need to find new hair compositions overcoming these defects, disadvantages and obstacles of the prior art, in particular compositions making it possible in particular to densify the hair and / or to dress, to discipline and / or to smooth the hair. hair. Hair is also an important physical element regarding the appearance of individuals. The total number of hair follicles that an individual will have for life is determined during embryogenesis. This average number in man is 2 million over the entire body surface. The scalp alone accounts for an average of 1 million while only 100,000 to 150,000 hairs are present on an adult scalp. The majority of hair follicles produce a fine and colorless hair, having a very short life cycle called down or vellus. On the contrary, the hair follicles of the eyelashes, eyebrows and scalp, so-called terminals, produce a long hair, thick, pigmented and having a very long life cycle. However, each hair follicle retains some plasticity allowing a down follicle to turn into a terminal follicle and vice versa. This is particularly observed during puberty or many down follicles are recruited in response to an androgen peak to produce terminal hair. A person loses about 40 to 100 hairs a day with peaks of up to 175, especially in the spring and fall.

The hair is subjected to a life cycle. This cycle is divided into 3 phases: a growth phase, the anagen phase, a regression phase or catagen phase, and a rest phase or telogen phase. [1]. Under physiological conditions, 85% of scalp follicles are in the anagen phase and 15% in the telogen phase [1]. The average duration of the anagen phase of a hair is from 2 to 6 years and it is mainly this which determines the length of the hair. This anagenic phase is followed by a short catagenic phase, characterized by a halt within 1 to 2 weeks of keratin and pigment production, hair follicle involution and extracellular matrix restructuring. .

During the telogen phase, the hair follicle shrinks by more than half, limiting itself to a few epithelial cells on a group of quiescent cells of the dermal papilla. The hair remains in place for about 3 months before falling off [1]. Recent research suggests that hair loss is an active and highly controlled process that differs from the quiescent phase. The expulsion of so-called exogenous hair requires proteolysis of the hair sheath. A loss of desmoglein 3 in particular causes the fall of the hair [2]. The empty hair follicles, before the new anagen phase, are in a stage called kenogen [3]. Although follicles in the kenogenic stage can be seen in healthy skin, their frequency and duration are significantly higher in individuals with androgenetic alopecia [4]. Under normal conditions, a follicle continues to cycle throughout life. Cycles are complexly regulated by signaling changes in the surrounding environment such as changes in the expression of cytokines, hormones, neurotransmitters and their receptors as well as transcription and enzyme factors. acting autocrine paracrine or endocrine [5]. The factors determining the duration of the anagen phase in a given individual are not fully known. However, the life cycle of a follicle activates the same pathways required for its formation during embryogenesis and some factors favoring the anagen or catagenic phase have been identified. Thus the Wnt / p-catenine pathway is the first signal driving the formation of a new capillary fiber [5, 6, 10 7]. A decrease in the duration of the anagen phase, the number of active follicles per cutaneous surface as well as the size of the hair follicles can lead to a decrease in the density of hair. In the case of telogen effluvium, hair loss is diffuse and abundant. It is a rapid passage of hair in the telogen phase, which is akin to an accelerated death of it. In this case neither the size of the follicles nor their density are affected. The cause may be psychological, medicinal, or organic (iron deficiency, menstrual bleeding, postpartum period and / or breastfeeding period ...) 20 [5]. Scarring alopecia is characterized by permanent destruction of the hair follicle resulting in a decrease in the density of the hair follicles. This destruction is usually an inflammatory cause [5].

Androgenetic alopecia of the top of the skull and forehead affects mainly men. The age at which the process starts is variable. Male hormones play a role in this mechanism, which explains why male pattern baldness does not begin until after puberty. Testosterone, converted to dihydrotestosterone (DHT) by 5-alpha reductase, causes hair loss. DHT will pack the process of making hair that will renew itself more and more quickly. The duration of the anagen phase is shortened in favor of the telogen phase and the percentage of follicles in the telogen phase increases. After 25 cycles, the follicle becomes exhausted and the hair becomes thinner and thinner until it becomes a fine, clear down without any covering power [8]. Alopecia areata or hair loss in patches is due to an autoimmune reaction. Indeed, the hair follicle loses its immune privilege leading to the exposure of hair self-antigens and the infiltration of inflammatory cells. Inflammation causes arrest of hair growth, followed by fall. As in androgenetic alopecia, the hair becomes more and more fine, and unlike alopecia areata, a rise in inflammation allows a reversion of the phenotype to the terminal follicle [9]. Inflammation in the context of autoimmunity is also one of the causes of scarring alopecia [10]. Thus, the main causes of capillary density loss can be of genetic, environmental, hormonal or inflammatory origin. If for a type of alopecia a cause predominates, it seems that all are present and contribute to aggravate hair loss. Inflammation is thought to participate in all forms of alopecia, in greater or lesser proportions depending on the origin of alopecia [8]. Thus one can observe local alopecia in an area of inflamed skin in lupus erythematosus. If the inflammation does not specifically target the hair, it is affected. [11] Inflammation may also be associated with androgenetic alopecia, which, if not the direct cause, aggravates the signs [12]. There exist in the state of the art compositions capable of slowing hair loss, for example minoxidyl which, when applied topically on the scalp, can slow down hair loss. Its effectiveness is related to its vasodilator power which allows the hair to be better irrigated. However, this compound does not stimulate hair regrowth and has many potential side effects (irritation, dryness, scaling and redness of the scalp). Awareness can also develop. Other compounds are also known to slow down hair loss, for example finasteride and dutasteride, however these compounds also have very significant side effects as they are compounds originally used to treat hair loss. benign prostatic hypertrophy and that they act via a decrease in the rate of DHT. There is also in the prior art treatments for hair loss or treatments to densify the hair or give renewed vigor to tired hair, for example herbal treatments using in particular essential oils of rosewood (Aniba rosaedora), tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) or grapefruit (Citrus paradisii), the essential oils being rather generally used for the treatment of oily hair. On the other hand, the effectiveness of herbal treatments to densify the scalp or treat tired hair is limited or contested. Hair loss can be very different from one individual to another, ie a normal state or a profound change in one's appearance that can be difficult to accept. Especially in women, a significant hair loss is likely to cause a loss of hair density is often poorly accepted. There is therefore a real need to find new compositions overcoming these defects, disadvantages and obstacles of the prior art, in particular compositions making it possible in particular to prevent hair loss, breakage of the hair, strengthen the hair fiber, and densify the hair. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention is specifically intended to meet these needs and disadvantages by providing a cosmetic composition comprising a cedar essential oil, an essential oil of 3026951 8 Cypress, a Juniper essential oil, an essential oil of Rosemary and an essential oil of Ylang-ylang. The inventors of the present invention are indeed the first to have demonstrated, quite unexpectedly, that a cosmetic composition comprising both a Cedar essential oil, a Cypress essential oil, an essential oil juniper, an essential oil of rosemary and a Ylang-ylang essential oil advantageously makes it possible to strengthen and / or densify the hair fiber and / or the hair.

In addition, the inventors of the present are the first to have demonstrated, quite unexpectedly, that a cosmetic composition comprising both a Cedar essential oil, a Cypress essential oil, an essential oil Juniper, an essential oil of rosemary and an essential oil Ylang-ylang 15 advantageously prevents hair breakage and / or prevent hair loss and / or soothe the scalp. As used herein, "Cedar essential oil" means an essential oil obtained by steam distillation. It may be for example an essential oil obtained from all or part of the plant, for example from wood, stump or sawdust of Cedrus atlantica. It may be for example any essential oil of Cedar known to those skilled in the art and / or commercially available. It may be, for example a cedar oil marketed by the company Golgemma, under the trade reference HE cedar wood atlas.

Advantageously, it may be an essential oil of Cedrus atlantica. According to the invention, the essential oil of cedar may contain a mixture of sesquiterpenes and / or sesquiterpenic ketones. The cedar essential oil may contain, for example, at least one sesquiterpene selected from the group consisting of beta-himachalene, alpha-thihalene, gamma-himachalene or a mixture thereof. The essential cedar oil may contain, for example, at least one sesquiterpene ketone selected from the group consisting of (E) -alphaatlantone, or a mixture thereof. According to the invention, Cedar essential oil can be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art. It may be for example an essential oil obtained by steam distillation or by microwave extraction. According to the invention, the essential oil of cedar may be present in the composition at a concentration of 1 × 10 -7 to 1%, of 1 × 10 -5 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In the present "Cypress essential oil" means an essential oil obtained for example by steam distillation, by extraction with microwaves. It may be for example an essential oil obtained from all or part of the plant, for example from branches, branches of Cupressus sempervirens. It may be for example any essential oil Cypress known to those skilled in the art and / or commercially available. It may be, for example a Cypress oil marketed by In Lustrys, under the commercial reference Essential Oil Cypress Provence.

Advantageously, it may be an essential oil of Cupressus sempervirens. According to the invention, the cypress essential oil may contain monoterpene, sesquiterpenic and / or diterpenic carbides. According to the invention, the cypress essential oil can be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art. It may be, for example, an essential oil obtained by microwave extraction and / or by steam distillation. According to the invention, the essential oil of cypress may be present in the composition at a concentration of 1 × 10 -7 to 1, from 1 × 10 -5 to 0.5 percent by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As used herein, "Juniper essential oil" means an essential oil obtained for example by steam distillation. It may be for example an essential oil obtained from all or part of the plant, for example from fruits (berries), 5 branches, branches of Juniperus communis. It may be for example any essential oil of juniper known to those skilled in the art and / or commercially available. It may be, for example a Juniper oil marketed by the company Elixens, under the trade reference HE Juniper berries + ram. bio sica. Advantageously, it may be an essential oil of Juniperus communis. According to the invention, the juniper essential oil may contain monoterpenes. Juniper essential oil may contain, for example, at least one monoterpene chosen from the group comprising alpha-pinene, myrcene, sabinene and / or a mixture thereof.

According to the invention, the essential oil of Juniper can be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art. It may be, for example, an essential oil obtained by microwave extraction and / or by steam distillation. According to the invention, the essential oil of Juniper may be present in the composition at a concentration of 1 x 10- to 1, from 1 x 10-5 to 0.5 weight percent based on the total weight of the composition. In the present "essential oil of Rosemary" is meant an essential oil obtained for example by distillation with water vapor. It may be for example an essential oil obtained from all or part of the plant, for example from leaves, stems, or branches of Rosmarinus officinalis. It may be for example any essential oil Rosemary known to those skilled in the art and / or commercially available. It may be, for example, an essential oil of rosemary marketed by the company Elixens or In Lustrys, under the commercial reference HE rosemary pyramidal bio sica or HE Rosemary.

Advantageously, it may be an essential oil of Rosmarinus officinalis. According to the invention, the essential oil of rosemary may contain terpene oxides, monoterpenones and / or monoterpenes.

The rosemary essential oil may contain, for example, at least one terpenic oxide selected from the group consisting of 1.8-cineole, at least one monoterpenone selected from the group consisting of camphor, alpha-cocaine, and / or at least one selected monoterpene. in the group comprising camphene, alpha-pinene, betapinene and / or a mixture thereof. According to the invention, the essential oil of rosemary can be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art. It may be for example an essential oil obtained by cold pressing, an essential oil obtained by microwave extraction or by steam distillation. According to the invention, the essential oil of rosemary may be present in the composition at a concentration of 1 × 10 -7 to 1, from 1 × 10 -5 to 0.5 percent by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. As used herein, "ylang-ylang essential oil" means an essential oil obtained for example by steam distillation. It may be for example an essential oil obtained from all or part of the plant, for example from flowers, for example Cananga odorata. It may be for example any essential oil of ylang-ylang known to those skilled in the art and / or commercially available. It may be, for example an essential oil of ylang-ylang marketed by the company Fytosan, under the commercial reference essential oil of ylang ylang extra biological. Advantageously, it may be an essential oil of Cananga odorata. According to the invention, the essential oil of Ylang-ylang may contain at least one sesquiterpene. Ylang-ylang essential oil may contain, for example, at least one sesquiterpene selected from the group consisting of D-germacrene, beta-caryophyllene, alpha-farnesene and / or a mixture thereof. According to the invention, the ylang-ylang essential oil can be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art. It may be for example an essential oil obtained for example by microwave extraction or by steam distillation. According to the invention, the ylang-ylang essential oil may be present in the composition at a concentration of 1 × 10 -7 to 1, from 1 × 10 -5 to 0.5 percent by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. . Advantageously, the inventors of the present have surprisingly demonstrated that the composition comprising both a Cedar essential oil, a Cypress essential oil, a Juniper essential oil, a Rosemary essential oil and a Ylang essential oil. -ylang surprisingly and synergistically makes it possible to densify the hair, for example by limiting inflammation of the scalp and / or hair follicles noted, for example, in the alopecia situation, for example making it possible to slow hair loss and, for example, to increase the number of hair on the surface of the scalp. The inventors of the present invention have also demonstrated that the composition according to the invention advantageously also advantageously makes it possible to prevent breakage of the hair. The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention may comprise one or more adjuvants known to those skilled in the art.

This may be, for example, one or more adjuvants selected from ester-type agents, moisturizing agents, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, mineral thickeners, organic thickeners, associative or not, perfumes, preservatives, ceramics, and pseudo-ceramics, vitamins and provitamins, proteins, sequestering agents, alkalinizing agents, acidifying agents, reducing agents, oxidizing agents, mineral fillers, dyes or any other adjuvant which may be cited in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) dictionary published by the PCPC (Personal Care Products Council).

According to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition may, for example, be in any form known to those skilled in the art that may be used in the hair and / or topical field, without any particular pharmaceutical restriction. It may be, for example, an oil-in-water, water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, a microemulsion, a nanoemulsion, a solid emulsion, an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic gel, a mist, an ointment, a mask, a shampoo, a conditioner, a serum, a hair lotion . According to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition may be a hair composition. It can be any hair composition known to those skilled in the art. It may be for example a shampoo, a conditioner, a balm, a hair lotion, a mask, a hair spray. According to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition may be a topical composition. It may be any topical composition known to those skilled in the art. It may be for example a cream, a lotion, an oil patch. In the present, the cosmetic or dermatological composition can be obtained by any suitable method known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition. It can be a mixture of surfactants in water. It may also be, for example, a method comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example a rotor-stator type turbine. It may also be for example a method using Phase Inversion Temperature (TIP), a method conventionally used by those skilled in the art to obtain 14 oil-in-water emulsions whose dispersed droplets are particularly fine, for example with a diameter of 0.1 to 1 μm. According to the invention, the cosmetic composition can be used in a treatment of hair fibers. In particular, the composition according to the invention can be used by direct application to hair and / or dry or wet hair fibers. In addition, the composition according to the invention can be used in a treatment of hair fibers rinsed or not. Advantageously, the composition of the invention makes it possible to soothe the scalp, to densify and fortify the hair fiber, thus advantageously making it possible both to prevent and / or reduce the breakage of the hair, the hair loss while toning the hair. hair fiber and densifying it. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also makes it possible to prevent hair loss, to strengthen and / or densify the hair fiber and / or to densify the hair. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method comprising the application on the skin of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

For this application, it is possible, for example, to use the dosage forms described above. The application to the skin can therefore be carried out according to the dosage form used. This may be, for example, a simple application to the skin or an application accompanied by a massage of the skin with the composition of the present invention. The application is preferably carried out with a sufficient amount of the composition so that the entire surface of the skin to be treated is treated. It may be for example a conventional application, such as a cream on the skin. For example, it may also be an application for forming a treating mask.

The application may be, for example, a daily, weekly and bi-monthly application. This may be for example an application once a day, twice a day or more. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method comprising the application to the hair of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. For this application, it is possible, for example, to use the galenic forms described above. The application to the hair can therefore be carried out according to the dosage form used.

This may be, for example a simple application to the hair or an application accompanied by a rinsing hair. The application is preferably carried out with a sufficient amount of the composition so that the entire surface of the hair to be treated is treated. It may be for example a conventional application, such as a shampoo, after shampoo on the hair. For example, it may also be an application for forming a treating mask. The application can be any application desired by the user, for example a daily, twice daily, weekly and / or bi-monthly application. This may be for example an application once a week, twice a week, three times a week or more, once a day, twice a day or more. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic care method for hair care comprising a step of applying to the hair of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

For this application, it is possible, for example, to use the dosage forms described above. The application to the hair can therefore be carried out according to the dosage form used. It may be, for example a simple application on the hair, an application accompanied by a rinsing hair.

The application is preferably carried out with a sufficient amount of the composition so that the entire surface of the hair to be treated is treated. It may be for example a conventional application, such as a shampoo, after shampoo, a mask on the hair, a lotion, a water on the hair. The subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of hair consisting in applying to the hair at least one cosmetic composition according to the invention, then optionally in rinsing. According to the invention, the hair treatment method may comprise, for example, the application of at least two, three cosmetic compositions according to the invention. It may be for example the application of a shampoo, optionally followed by rinsing, and / or a conditioner, optionally followed by a rinse and / or mask possibly followed by a rinse. The hair treatment method may further include, for example, the application of a lotion. For this application, it is possible, for example, to use the galenic forms described above. The application to the hair can therefore be carried out according to the dosage form used. The application may be any application desired by the user, for example a daily, twice daily, weekly and / or bi-monthly application. This may be for example an application once a day, twice a day or more. The application can be carried out for example on dry or wet or wet hair.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition as defined above for its soothing efficacy, especially for the treatment of itchy scalp and / or skin. It may be for example a treatment of itchy scalp, possibly associated with dandruff.

Surprisingly, the inventors herein have demonstrated that the composition comprising a Cedar essential oil, a Cypress essential oil, a Juniper essential oil, a Rosemary essential oil, and a rosemary essential oil. Ylang-ylang has soothing properties allowing, after application on the scalp, to calm the itching of it.

The present invention also relates to a hair treatment kit comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention and a support comprising instructions for the use of the hair composition on the hair. The carrier with instructions for use of the hair composition may be a manual or a notice, particularly to explain to the user the manner and frequency of application to the hair of the composition of the present invention. According to the invention, the cosmetic care kit may also comprise an applicator, for example a spatula, a brush, a dynamic applicator, for example a massage device impregnated with the cosmetic composition of the invention. According to the invention, the kit may further comprise a hair post-treatment cosmetic composition selected from a conditioner, a perm, a relaxer, a hair coloring or bleaching product. According to the invention, the cosmetic composition for post-treatment of the hair may be a composition according to the invention and / or a composition available commercially.

Other advantages may still be apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the examples below, illustrated by the appended figures, given for illustrative purposes. EXAMPLES Example 1: Example of cosmetic compositions according to the present invention A base composition described in Table 1 below was prepared according to the following method: the various ingredients were previously prepared and weighed, then in a container of 1 to 5 liters, humectants and water-soluble ingredients were dispersed using a laboratory mixer such as a Turbotest or Supertest benchtop agitator from VMI at a rotational speed of 600 rpm until complete solubilization. The gelling agents / thickeners, previously mixed, were then dispersed at a speed of 600 rpm until homogenization. Finally, the solutions / phases containing the active ingredients, plant proteins, perfumes, preservatives and pH regulators were added with stirring at a speed of 600 rpm until homogenization.

Table 1: Basic composition for a cosmetic and / or dermatological product of the shampoo type Ingredients Quantity in% relative to the weight of the composition in% Surfactants / conditioners 10 to 30% Vegetable proteins 0.5 to 5% Preservers qsp Perfume qs Water qs 100% In this composition the surfactants were sulfonated, amphoteric (betaine) and nonionic surfactants based on sugar glucoside, nonionic solubilizing on glycerol base, nonionic thickener, the conditioners were, for example In polyquaternium, plant proteins were hydrolyzed potato vegetable proteins coupled to a propyl silanetriol derivative. Another basic composition described in Table 2 below was also prepared according to the following method: the different ingredients were previously prepared and weighed, then in a container of 1 to 5 liters, the humectants, the water and the water-soluble ingredients were mixed using a laboratory mixer such as a Turbotest or Supertest bench-top stirrer from VMI at a rotation speed of 600 rpm until complete solubilization, the oily phase previously prepared by mixture and heated to 75 ° C containing the emollients / conditioners were introduced and then the whole was allowed to cool with stirring, 600 rpm, at 40 ° C. Finally, the phases containing the actives, vegetable proteins, perfumes, preservatives and pH regulators were introduced with stirring at a speed of 600 rpm until homogenization. Table 2: Cosmetic / dermatological composition of the after-shampoo type Ingredients Quantity in% relative to the weight of the composition in ° / 0 Emulsifier 1 to 5% Conditioner / Emollient 1 to 5% Vegetable oil 1 to 5% Humectant 1 to 10% Thickener 0.5 to 5% Vegetable proteins 0.5 to 5% Assets Qs Preservatives Qsp 3026951 20 Perfume Qsp Water qs 100% In this composition, the emulsifiers were of the alkyl and alkyl glucoside type, the conditioners / emollients were of the polyquaternium type and The vegetable oils were jojoba oil, the humectant was glycerin, the thickeners were raw materials derived from sugars, the vegetable proteins were hydrolysed vegetable potato proteins coupled to a propyl derivative. silanetriol, the ingredient designated as "active" in the base composition were D-panthenol.

A third base composition described in Table 3 below was also prepared according to the following method: the various ingredients were previously prepared and weighed, then in a container of 1 to 5 liters, the humectants, the water and the The water-soluble ingredients were mixed using a laboratory mixer such as a Turbotest or Supertest bench-top agitator from VMI at a rotational speed of 600 rpm until complete solubilization, the gelling agents / thickeners, previously prepared. were dispersed by mixing at a speed of 600 rpm until complete homogenization. Finally, the phases containing the active ingredients, vegetable proteins, perfumes, preservatives and pH regulators were introduced with stirring at a speed of 600 rpm until homogenization. Table 3: cosmetic / dermatological composition of the hair lotion type: Ingredients Quantity in% relative to the weight of the composition in ° / 0 Emulsifier 0.5 to 5% 3026951 21 Humectant 1 to 5% Vegetable proteins 0.05 to 3% Qs Preservatives Qsp Qf Fragrance Water / Alcohol qs 100% In this composition the emulsifiers were nonionic surfactants derived from castor oil, the vegetable proteins were hydrolysed vegetable proteins of potato coupled to a propyl silanetriol derivative l The humectant was glycerine, the ingredient designated "active" in the base composition was D-panthenol, arginine and alpha bisabolol. From these three base compositions, compositions comprising respectively: 10 -7,6x10-4; 9.5x10-4 or 1.10-3.3% by weight of Cedar essential oil relative to the total weight of each composition, 1.5x10-3%; 1.9x10-3% or 2.3x10-3% by weight of cypress essential oil relative to the total weight of each composition, - 1.5x10-3%; 1.9x10-3% or 2.3x10-3% by weight of Juniper essential oil relative to the total weight of each composition, 5.4x10-3%; 6.7x10-3% or 8.0x10-3% by weight of rosemary essential oil relative to the total weight of each composition and - 1.5x10-3%; 1.9x10-3% or 2.3x10-3% by weight of ylang-ylang essential oil based on the total weight of each composition were prepared. Cedar essential oil was the essential oil of Cedar marketed by the company Golgemma.

The essential oil of Cypress was the essential oil of Cypress marketed by the company In Lustrys The essential oil of Juniper was the essential oil of Juniper marketed by the company Elixens 5 The essential oil of Rosemary was the oil Rosemary essential oil marketed by the company Elixens or In Lustrys The essential oil of Ylang-ylang was the essential oil of Ylangylang marketed by the company Fytosan, the values in perfume, preservative and water then being adjusted 10 as indicated in Table 1 above. The percentages by weight of Cedar essential oil, Cypress essential oil, Juniper essential oil, Rosemary essential oil and Ylang-ylang essential oil are indicated in the following Table 4.

Table 4: Percentage by weight of Cedar essential oil, Cypress essential oil, Juniper essential oil, Rosemary essential oil and Ylang-ylang essential oil in relation to the total weight of the basic composition of Table 1 (shampooing) Composition by weight per cent by weight per cent by weight per cent by weight of Cedar essential oil, based on the total weight of the oil composition Ylangylang essential oil essential oil essential oil weight (%) compared to the weight (%) of Rosemary Juniper Cypress relative to the weight of the total weight of the total weight of the total of composition composition composition (%) (%) (%) 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 5.0E-01 5.0E-01 5.0E-01 5.0E-01 5.0E-01 2 4 , 0E-01 4.0E-01 4.0E-01 4.0E-01 4.0E-01 3026951 23 4 3.0E-01 3.0E-01 3.0E-01 3.0E-01 3.0E -01 5 2.0E-01 2.0E-01 2.0E-01 2.0E-01 2.0E-01 6 1.0E-01 1.0E-01 1.0E-01 1.0E-01 1 , 0E-01 7 7.5E-02 7.5E-02 7.5E-02 7.5E- 02 7.5E-02 8 5.0E-02 5.0E-02 5.0E-02 5.0E-02 5.0E-02 9 2.5E-02 2.5E-02 2.5E-02 2, 5E-02 2.5E-02 10 1.0E-02 1.0E-02 1.0E-02 1.0E-02 1.0E-02 11 1.9E-03 3.8E-03 3.8E-03 1,3E-02 3,8E-03 12 1,7E-03 3,4E-03 3,4E-03 1,2E-02 3,4E-03 13 1,5E-03 3.0E-03 3.0E -03 1,1E-02 3,0E-03 14 1,3E-03 2,7E-03 2,7E-03 9,4E-03 2,7E-03 15 1,1E-03 2,3E-03 2 , 3E-03 8.0E-03 2.3E-03 16 1.0E-03 1.0E-03 1.0E-03 1.0E-03 1.0E-03 17 1.05E-03 2.09E- 03 2.09E-03 7.37E-03 2.09E-03 18 9.5E-04 1.9E-03 1.9E-03 6.7E-03 1.9E-03 19 8.6E-04 1, 7E-03 1.7E-03 6.0E-03 1.7E-03 20 7.6E-04 1.5E-03 1.5E-03 5.4E-03 1.5E-03 21 6.7E-04 1.3E-03 1.3E-03 4.7E-03 1.3E-03 22 5.7E-04 1.1E-03 1.1E-03 4.0E-03 1.1E-03 23 4.8E -04 9,5E-04 9,5E-04 3,4E-03 9,5E-04 24 3,8E-04 7,6E-04 7,6E-04 2,7E-03 7,6E-04 25 2 , 9E-04 5.7E-04 5.7E-04 2.0E-03 5.7E-04 26 1.9E-04 3.8E-04 3.8E-04 1.3E-03 3.8E-04 27 9.5E-05 1.9E-04 1.9E-04 6.7E-04 1.9E-04 28 1.0E-04 1.0E-04 1.0E-04 1.0E-04 1.0E -04 In the table above "aE-b" means axl 0-b Table 5: Percentage in ids of Cedar essential oil, Cypress essential oil, Juniper essential oil, Rosemary essential oil and Ylang-ylang essential oil in relation to the total weight of the base composition of the plant. Table 2 (After shampooing): 3026951 24 Composition by weight per cent by weight per cent by weight of cedar essential oil, based on the total weight of the oil composition essential oil of Ylangylang essential oil essential oil of Ylangylang (%) compared to the weight (%) of Rosemary Juniper Cypress relative to the weight of the total weight of the total weight of the total of the composition composition composition (%) (%) (%) 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 5.0E-01 5.0E-01 5.0E-01 5.0E-01 5.0E-01 2 4, 0E-01 4.0E-01 4.0E-01 4.0E-01 4.0E-01 4 3.0E-01 3.0E-01 3.0E-01 3.0E-01 3.0E-01 5 2.0E-01 2.0E-01 2.0E-01 2.0E-01 2.0E-01 6 1.0E-01 1.0E-01 1.0E-01 1.0E-01 1.0E-01 01 7 7.5E-02 7.5E-02 7.5E-02 7.5E-02 7.5E-02 8 5.0E-02 5.0E-02 5.0E-02 5.0E-02 5.0E-02 9 2.5E-02 2.5E-02 2.5E-02 2.5E-02 2.5E-02 1.0E -02 1,0E-02 1,0E-02 1,0E-02 1,0E-02 11 1,9E-03 3,8E-03 3,8E-03 1,3E-02 3,8E-03 12 1 , 7E-03 3,4E-03 3,4E-03 1,2E-02 3,4E-03 13 1,5E-03 3,0E-03 3,0E-03 1,1E-02 3,0E-03 14 1,3E-03 2,7E-03 2,7E-03 9,4E-03 2,7E-03 15 1,1E-03 2,3E-03 2,3E-03 8,0E-03 2,3E -03 16 1.0E-03 1.0E-03 1.0E-03 1.0E-03 1.0E-03 17 1.05E-03 2.09E-03 2.09E-03 7.37E-03 2 , 09E-03 18 9.5E-04 1.9E-03 1.9E-03 6.7E-03 1.9E-03 19 8.6E-04 1.7E-03 1.7E-03 6.0E- 03 1.7E-03 20 7.6E-04 1.5E-03 1.5E-03 5.4E-03 1.5E-03 21 6.7E-04 1.3E-03 1.3E-03 4, 7E-03 1,3E-03 22 5,7E-04 1,1E-03 1,1E-03 4,0E-03 1,1E-03 23 4,8E-04 9,5E-04 9,5E-04 3,4E-03 9,5E-04 24 3,8E-04 7,6E-04 7,6E-04 2,7E-03 7,6E-04 25 2,9E-04 5,7E-04 5,7E -04 2.0E-03 5.7E-04 3026951 25 26 1.9E-04 3.8E-04 3.8E-04 1.3E-03 3.8E-04 27 9.5E-05 1.9E- 04 1.9E-04 6.7E-04 1.9E-04 28 1.0E-04 1.0E-04 1.0E-04 1.0E-04 1.0E-04 In the table above "aE -b "means axle Table 6: Percentage by weight of oil e ssential of Cedar, 5 of Cypress essential oil, Juniper essential oil, Rosemary essential oil and Ylang-ylang essential oil compared to the total weight of the basic composition of Table 3: lotion Capillary and / or scalp composition Weight (%) by weight of cedar essential oil based on the total weight of the oil oil composition Ylangylang Essential Oil (%) Essential Oil Essential Oil Weight (%) of Rosemary Juniper Cypress Relative to Weight to Total Weight to Total Weight of Total composition composition composition (%) (%) (%) 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 5.0E-01 5.0E-01 5.0E-01 5.0E-01 5.0E-01 2 4.0E -01 4.0E-01 4.0E-01 4.0E-01 4.0E-01 4 3.0E-01 3.0E-01 3.0E-01 3.0E-01 3.0E-01 5 2 , 0E-01 2.0E-01 2.0E-01 2.0E-01 2.0E-01 6 1.0E-01 1.0E-01 1.0E-01 1.0E-01 1.0E-01 7 7.5E-02 7.5E-02 7.5E-02 7.5E-02 7.5E-02 8 5.0E-02 5.0E-02 5.0E-02 5.0E-02 5.0E-02 9 2.5E-02 2.5E-02 2.5E-02 2.5E-02 2.5E-02 1.0E -02 1,0E-02 1,0E-02 1,0E-02 1,0E-02 11 1,9E-03 3,8E-03 3,8E-03 1,3E-02 3,8E-03 12 1 , 7E-03 3,4E-03 3,4E-03 1,2E-02 3,4E-03 13 1,5E-03 3,0E-03 3,0E-03 1,1E-02 3,0E-03 3026951 26 14 1,3E-03 2,7E-03 2,7E-03 9,4E-03 2,7E-03 15 1,1E-03 2,3E-03 2,3E-03 8,0E-03 2 , 3E-03 16 1.0E-03 1.0E-03 1.0E-03 1.0E-03 1.0E-03 17 1.05E-03 2.09E-03 2.09E-03 7.37E- 03 2.09E-03 18 9.5E-04 1.9E-03 1.9E-03 6.7E-03 1.9E-03 19 8.6E-04 1.7E-03 1.7E-03 6, 0E-03 1,7E-03 20 7,6E-04 1,5E-03 1,5E-03 5,4E-03 1,5E-03 21 6,7E-04 1,3E-03 1,3E-03 4.7E-03 1.3E-03 22 5.7E-04 1.1E-03 1.1E-03 4.0E-03 1.1E-03 23 4.8E-04 9.5E-04 9.5E -04 3,4E-03 9,5E-04 24 3,8E-04 7,6E-04 7,6E-04 2,7E-03 7,6E-04 25 2,9E-04 5,7E-04 5 , 7E-04 2.0E-03 5.7E-04 26 1.9E-04 3.8E-04 3.8E-04 1.3E-03 3.8E-04 27 9.5E-05 1.9E- 04 1,9E-04 6,7E-04 1,9E-04 28 1,0E-04 1,0E-04 1,0E-04 1,0E-04 1,0E-04 Example 2: Usage test of three examples of cosmetic compositions according to the invention and evaluation of cosmetic qualities of this composition 5 To confirm the effects of three examples of compositions according to the invention, three different usage tests under dermatological control have been implemented on three independent panels of an average of 30 volunteers. The shampoo-type composition (Table 7) was evaluated by a first panel of 30 volunteers (23 women and 7 10 men), aged 20 to 69, with naturally fine and / or devitalized hair, tired and refined, and / or or weak and weak, with a tendency to fall. The product was applied 3 times a week for 4 weeks, with scalp massage followed by rinsing. The shampoo-type composition used includes the compounds shown in the following Table 7: Table 7: Shampoo composition 3026951 Ingredients Amount in% relative to by weight of the composition (%) Surfactants / conditioners 10 to 30% Sodium laureth sulfate 10 to 15% Cocamido propyl betaine 1 to 3% Cedar essential oil 1,1E-03 Cypress essential oil 2,3E-03 Essential oil of Juniper 2,3E-03 Rosemary Essential Oil 8,0E-03 Ylang Ylang Essential Oil 2,3E-03 Plant Protein Hydrolysed PG-Propyl 0,5 to 5 `) / 0 Silanetriol Preservatives qs Perfume qs pH Regulators qs Water qs 100% In the table above "aE-b" means ax10-b The results of the use test are summarized in the following Table 8: Table 8: Overall Judgment of the Composition General Assessment of the Product application The shampoo is easy to apply 97% 3026951 28 The shampoo foam well 93% The shampoo is easy to rinse 97% The perfume is pleasant 97% The perfume is well balanced 83% After the first application once the hair is dried The hair is gently 87% The hair is perfectly clean 97% The hair is shiny 90% The hair is soft 90% The hair is more toned 87% The hair is more dense 83% The hair is thicker 67% The hair has more volume 70 % The hair gets less brushing 57% After the first application at the end of the day The hair is more resistant 67% The hair is thicker 60% The hair keeps its volume all day 67% The hair is more dense 67% The hair is less fragile 77% The hair falls less when brushed 70% The hair is more toned 63% After one month of use The hair is thicker 93% The hair is stronger 90% The hair is so More dense 77% Hair is softer 80% Hair is more resistant 83% Hair is more toned 87% Hair looks healthier 93% Hair is less brittle 77% Brushing hair loss is reduced 80 % 3026951 29 General product evaluation The product is pleasant 90% The tested product is suitable for the hair type 90% The product is "good" 90% The tester is ready to use this product instead of its usual product 87% La The composition of Table 7 has therefore been recognized as being very effective by users. In particular, as demonstrated, an example of a composition according to the invention makes it possible to densify the capillary fiber, protect it from breakage and reduce hair loss. The second composition of the lotion type was evaluated by a use test on a second panel of 30 volunteers (25 women and 5 men), aged 20 to 69, with naturally fine hair and / or devitalized hair, tired, and refined and / or fragile and weakened hair, with a tendency to fall (related to breakage). The lotion was sprayed 1 to 2 times / day (morning and / or evening) on dry or wet hair in the roots, at the rate of 8 sprays, line by line on the entire scalp. The lotion was then gently massaged before styling and without rinsing. The lotion used comprises the compounds indicated in the following table 9: Table 9: gasoline / lotion composition Ingredients Quantity in% relative to the weight of the composition in% PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.5 to 5% glycerin 1 to 5 % Cedar Essential Oil 7,6E-04 Cypress Essential Oil 1,5E-03 Juniper Essential Oil 1,5E-03 3026951 30 Rosemary Essential Oil 5,4E-03 Ylang Ylang Essential Oil 1,5E-03 Hydrolyzed vegetable protein PG-0 05 at 3% Propyl Silanetriol Panthenol 0.1 to 2% Arginine 0.1 to 2% Bisabolol 0.1 to 2% pH regulator Qs Preservatives Qs Perfume Qs Water / Alcohol qs 100% In the table Above "aE-b" means ax10-b The test composition was in the form of a spray. The results of the use test are summarized in the following table: Table 10: Overall judgment of the composition of Table 8 General assessment of the product At application The spray is easy to apply 97% The formula penetrates pleasantly into the leather hairy 97% The perfume is pleasant 87% The perfume is well dosed 87% After the first application The hair is revitalized at the root 57% The hair is fortified from the root 53% The hair is reinforced 60% The hair is more than tone from the root 53% 3026951 31 The hair has more tone 57% The hair is more vigorous from the root 53% The scalp is soothed 63% The scalp is as purified 63% The hair falls less brushing 53% La hair loss (due to breakage) is decreased 60% Hair regains more material 57% Hair is thicker from the root 50% Hair is denser from the root 50% After one month of use Hair is Revitalized 70% Hair is fortified from root to tip 77% Hair is strengthened 73% Hair has more tone right from the root 73% Hair is stronger from the root 67% Hair is stronger from the root 70% The scalp is soothed 70% The scalp is as purified 70% The hair loss (due to breakage) is decreased 67% The hair finds more material 73% The hair is thicker from the root 70% The hair is denser from the root 70% The hair falls less brushing 70% The composition of Table 9 has been recognized as being very effective by users. In particular, as demonstrated, an example of a composition according to the invention makes it possible to densify the capillary fiber, protect it from breakage and reduce hair loss. In addition, the composition according to the invention also makes it possible to soothe and / or purify the scalp.

The third composition of the type after shampooing was evaluated by a usage test on a third panel of 32 volunteers (29 women and 3 men), aged between 18 and 68, volunteers with naturally fine hair and / or devitalized, tired and 5 refined and / or fragile and weakened hair, with a tendency to fall (related to breakage). The shampoo composition was applied for 4 weeks at 3 times a week on the lengths after shampooing on wet hair. The composition was laid for one minute and then rinsed. The composition used comprises the compounds indicated in the following Table 11: Table 11: Concentrated care composition Ingredients Quantity in% relative to the weight of the composition in% Cetearyl alcohol 0.1 to 2% Cetearyl glucoside 0.1 to 2% Conditioner (polyquaternium) 1 at 5% Vegetable oil 0.5 to 5% Glycerin 1 to 10% Cedar essential oil 1,1E-03 Cypress essential oil 2,3E-03 Juniper essential oil 2,3E-03 Rosemary essential oil 8,0E-03 Essential oil of Ylang Ylang 2,3E-03 Thickener 0.5 to 5% Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein 0.5 to 5% PG-Propyl Silanetriol 3026951 33 Panthenol 0.05 to 1% pH regulator Qs Preservatives Qs Perfume Qs Water qs 100% The tested composition was in the form of a cream. The results of the use test are summarized in the following Table 12: Table 12: Overall judgment of the composition of Table 11 General assessment of the product At application The texture is melting 97% The product is easy to apply 100% Au rinsing, the hair is easily disentangled 100% The product rinses easily 94% The perfume is pleasant 75% The perfume is well dosed 75% After the first application once the hair is dry The hair is delicately scented 88% The hair is Perfectly disentangled 97% Hair is shiny 94% Hair is soft 97% Hair is easy to comb 91% Hair is loaded: it is denser 81% Hair is loaded: it's thicker 66% 3026951 34 The hair has more volume 72% The hair falls less while brushing 81% The product does not weigh down the hair 88% After the first application at the end of the day The hair is shiny 91% The hair is more resistant 84% The hair is thicker 72% The hair keeps its volume throughout the day 75% The hair is more dense 72% The hair falls less at the brushing 78% After a month of use The hair regains more matter 84% The hair is stronger 84% The hair is thicker 75% The hair is more dense 72% The hair is brighter 88% The hair is softer 94% The hair is more resistant 88 % Hair is easier to disentangle 94% Hair falls less when brushed 88% Hair loss (due to breakage) is decreased 81% The composition of Table 11 has therefore been recognized as being very effective by users. In particular, as demonstrated, an example of a composition according to the invention makes it possible to densify the capillary fiber, protect it from breakage and reduce hair loss. Example 3 Comparative Example of the Efficacy of Compositions According to the Invention Compared to Known Compositions In this example, an in-vitro comparison was made between 10 compositions according to the invention and a known composition. The compositions according to the invention were the compositions of Tables 7, 9 and 11. The known composition was a neutral shampoo comprising the following list of INCI ingredients of water, sodium laureth sulfate, acid citric acid, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium chloride, hexylene glycol, CI 47005, sodium methylparaben, DMDM hydantoin, polyquaternium-10, tilia cordata (tilia cordata flower extract), linalool, propylene glycol, tartaric acid, geraniol, methylpropional butylphenyl, citronellole, hexyl cinnamal, glyceryl laurate, perfume.

The comparative test was carried out over a period of 28 days using 10 strands of identical hair of a length of 20 cm, color 6/0, load 274, cut into a piece of 3 cm. For carrying out the test, 5 locks were processed according to the following method: 12 applications of the composition of Table 7, 12 applications of the composition of Table 11 and 28 applications of the composition of Table 9; the other 5 locks were treated with 12 applications of the neutral shampoo composition. Following these applications after 28 days, the wicks were placed on a device comprising brushing brushes attached to a cylindrical shaft which was rotated and subjected to a hair dryer. The rotation speed was 75 rpm and was applied for 1 hour representing about 9000 brushings then the hair dryer was applied for one hour. One hour after this treatment, each strand of hair was divided into three parts and then a technician manually combed each part 5 times and counted the broken hair. A comparison of the number of broken hair was then performed. A normal value check was performed via a Shapiro-Wilk statistical test at a threshold of 0.01, if the normal is rejected, a Mann-Whitney statistical test at a threshold of 0.05 was performed. if the norm is accepted, a Fisher test at a threshold of 0.05 was performed.

The results obtained are summarized in Table 12 below: As demonstrated in this example, examples of compositions according to the invention make it possible to significantly reduce hair breakage compared with compositions of the state of the art. . In particular, the compositions according to the invention make it possible to reduce the breakage of the hair fiber by a factor greater than 4 and advantageously makes it possible to reduce the percentage of hair loss by more than 75%. EXAMPLE 4 Effect on hair follicle gene expression of a mixture of essential oils of rosemary, juniper, ylang-ylang, cedar and cypress The experiments were carried out with a mixture of essential oils Cedar, Cypress, Juniper, Rosemary, Ylangylang. Compositions Table composition shampoo 7.9 and 11 neutral Number of broken hair Average 33 140 Standard deviation 18 64 Reduction factor of hair loss related to breakage compared to neutral shampoo composition Percentage reduction of hair loss related Breakdown 4.2 76.1% 3026951 37 Cedar essential oil was the essential oil of Cedar marketed by the company Golgemma. The essential oil of Cypress was the essential oil of cypress marketed by the company In Lustrys 5 The essential oil of Juniper was the essential oil of Juniper marketed by the company Elixens The essential oil of Rosemary was the essential oil of Rosemary marketed by the company Elixens. Ylang-ylang essential oil was the essential oil of Ylang-ylang marketed by the company Fytosan. This example clearly demonstrates by ex-vivo transcriptomic analysis by DNA chips that the composition of the invention makes it possible to stimulate genes involved, in particular in the regulation of inflammation.

The transcriptome is the set of messenger RNAs (molecules that serve as a template for the synthesis of proteins) resulting from the expression of a part of the genome of a particular tissue or of a given cell type. The characterization and quantification of the transcriptome in a given tissue and under given conditions makes it possible to identify the activated genes, to determine the mechanisms for regulating the expression of the genes and to define the expression networks of the genes. One of the techniques used to simultaneously measure the level of expression of a large number of different types of messenger RNA is that of the DNA chip. DNA chips make it possible to measure and visualize very quickly the expression differences between the genes and this at the level of a complete genome. 1. Material and method 1.1 Culture and treatment of hair follicles: The ex vivo human hair follicle culture model makes it possible to test compounds capable of modulating the growth and survival of hair. This model is considered as an isolated complete organ, representing a model of "natural" co-culture of cutaneous differentiated cells (keratinocytes, fibroblasts, melanocytes, stem cells ...). Essential oils of rosemary, juniper, cedar, ylang-ylang, cypress and the combination of these 5 essential oils have been placed in the presence of hair follicles maintained in survival, for transcriptomial analyzes. After carrying out a cell viability test as described in the publication of Khalegi S et al. [13] to determine for each composition a maximum concentration to be tested, 6 hair follicles per condition from facial lifting of a patient were incubated independently. They were incubated in the presence of Rosemary essential oil or Juniper essential oil or Cedar essential oil or Ylang-ylang essential oil or Cypress essential oil or combination thereof. 5 essential oils for 7 days in William's E medium (supplemented with 50 U / ml penicillin - 50 μg / ml streptomycin, 2 mM L-glutamine, 10 μg / ml insulin, 4 ng / ml hydrocortisone ) at 37 ° C at 5% CO2 in a humid atmosphere (98%). 6 untreated hair follicles were incubated under the same conditions. Table 13 below summarizes the concentrations applied for each composition: Table 13: Concentrations applied for each composition Compositions Concentration in essential oil (%) Rosemary essential oil 0.0001 Cypress essential oil 0.0001 Cedar essential oil 0 , 0001 Juniper essential oil 0.0001 Ylang-ylang essential oil 0.0001 3026951 39 Essential oils of rosemary, of 0.0001 + 0.0001 + 0.0001 + 0.0001 cypress, cedar, juniper, + 0.0001 ylang-ylang Total RNA Extraction After incubation, the hair follicles were frozen in liquid nitrogen and then the total RNAs from 6 hair follicles were extracted using the TriPure Isolation Reagent (Roche Applied Science). ). The total RNAs were quantified and then their quality was verified using the BlOanalyzer 2100 with the RNA 6000 Nano LabChip Kit (Agilent Technologies, Santa Clara, USA). An RIN (RNA Integrity Number) between 7.5 and 10 attests to the good quality of the total RNA extracted.

Measurement of On-Chip Gene Expression Oligonucleotides and Data Acquisition: 60-mer oligonucleotide chips on 1 "x 3" glass slides, SurePrint G3 Human Gene Expression 8x60K v2 Microarray 15 (G4851B, Agilent Technologies, Santa Clara, USA) were used for each gene expression analysis (SurePrint G3 Human Gene Expression 8x60K v2, Agilent Technologies, Santa Clara, USA). Documentation and the full experimental protocol are available on the Agilent Technologies website [14].

Briefly, retrotranscription and amplification of the total RNAs in cDNA and then cRNA and their labeling with cyanine 3 is performed using the Low Input Quick Amp Labeling Kit (Agilent Technologies). Purification of the cRNAs was performed using the RNeasy mini kit (Qiagen, Hilden, Germany) and hybridization with the Microarray hybridization chamber kit (Agilent Technologies). The chips were then scanned using the SureScan scanner (Agilent Technologies) and the Agilent Scan control software. The scanned images were then extracted and standardized with 3026951 Feature Extraction software. Statistical analysis of the data is performed using the Genespring GX 12.6 software (Agilent Technologies). Ingenuity Pathways Analysis (Ingenuity® Pathway Analysis (IPA), Ingenuity Systems, Redwood City, CA, USA-5 http://www.ingenuity.com) was then used to analyze and predict the activation status of biological pathways modulated by essential oils alone or the combination of 5 essential oils. For each treatment condition, 3 independent tagging experiments were performed (ie, 3 chips / oligonucleotides / condition) to increase the reproducibility of the data. Treated hair follicle genes were considered to be induced or inhibited if their level of differential expression is greater than a factor 2 compared to untreated hair follicles. The nonparametric, unpaired Student T-Test was used with the GeneSpring software to calculate the statistical difference in gene expression between the untreated hair follicles and the treated hair follicles. Genes whose p-value was less than 0.05, were considered differentially expressed. These genes were then analyzed by the Ingenuity Pathways Analysis software. This software allows a functional analysis of the regulated genes in the different treatment conditions, an analysis of the signaling pathways in which these genes fit and the analysis of the regulators upstream of these pathways. Table 14 shows the inflammation regulators identified by the Ingenuity Pathway Analysis software. A Z-score is calculated by the software. The biological pathways that are differentially significantly regulated have a Z-score> 2 or <-2. A Z-score> 2 or <-2 indicates that, within a 99% confidence interval, the biological pathways induced or repressed are not only by chance, but specifically.

Table 14: Z-score of inflammation interferon gamma (IFNy), tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNFα), IL-1cc, IL-113, IL-4, interleukin response to the treatment of hair follicles by essential oils alone or the combination of 5 essential oils. Oils Rosemary Cypress Cedar Genivia Ylang- Rosemary + essent r Ylang Cypress + cedar + Juniper + Ylang-Ylang IFNy 1,997 2,813 - -2,293 -0,728 -1,719 IL113 3,552 3,202 - - -2,389 TN Fa 3,682 3,746 - - 0,115 -1,457 ILI cc 3,299 2,935 - - -0,494 -1,654 IL-4 - - - -2,531 5 The results obtained show that the treatment of hair follicles by the combination of 5 essential oils induces an inhibition of the inflammation pathways mentioned in the table. With a Z-score <-2 for the IL-1I3 and IL-4 pathways. The IFNy, IL-1a and TNFa pathways have Z-score greater than or equal to -1.5, showing that these pathways could be potentially inhibited by the combination of essential oils. Thus, as demonstrated above, an example of a composition according to the invention comprising a mixture of essential oils of rosemary, cypress, cedar, juniper and ylang-ylang advantageously allows, in particular by an inhibition inflammation pathways, densify the scalp, slow down hair loss. The composition according to the invention also advantageously makes it possible to soothe the scalp and / or to reduce / soothe the itching of the scalp. TNFa is known to play a major role in the pathology of alopecia areata. TNF-a is synthesized by epidermal keratinocytes and is known to be a cell proliferation inhibitor.

302 6 95 1 42 In vivo studies have shown that TNF-a in combination with interleukins IL-1a and IL-113 will induce abnormal development of hair follicle and hair cells (vacuolation of the cells of the follicular bulb, decreased size of the matrix, disorganization of follicular melanocytes, abnormal differentiation and keratinization of the hair). Injection of TNF-α causes apoptosis of follicular bulb keratinocytes and its association with IL-1I3 will accelerate apoptosis [15]. As demonstrated by the aforementioned signaling pathway is inhibited by the composition according to the invention, namely comprising the essential oils and thus reduces the hair loss associated with the cell death of hair keratinocytes. In addition, interleukin IL-1I3 is known to induce hair loss inducer because it inhibits the cell cycle by increasing the telogen phase. In patients with alopecia areata, excessive expression is detected especially in the early phase of the disease [16]. Inhibition of this route by the composition comprising the essential oils therefore advantageously makes it possible to reduce hair loss associated with inflammation of the scalp.

IFN-γ is the major cytokine known to be aberrantly expressed in alopecia areata. IFN-γ is produced by follicular antigen-presenting cells that will prevent dermal papilla cells from maintaining the anagen phase [17]. In addition, IL-4 anti-inflammatory interleukin has been shown to induce apoptosis in a dose-and-time-dependent manner on keratinocytes of the hair in culture. This apoptosis mediated by interleukin IL-4 will partly regulate the formation of hair follicles during the catagen phase. Brittle hair is the result of an abnormality of the hair follicle cycle; the hair is no longer associated with the hair follicle. It is the entry into apoptosis of keratinocytes, in particular induced by interleukin IL-4, which leads to a shortening of the anagen phase and a faster induction of the catagen phase. Indeed, the premature differentiation of keratinocytes, associated with apoptosis, is one of the characteristics of the catagen phase [18].

Inhibition of this pathway by the composition comprising the essential oils will help reduce hair loss associated with cell death of hair keratinocytes. Thus, as demonstrated in this example, the composition according to the invention comprising a Cedar essential oil, a Cypress essential oil, a Juniper essential oil, a Rosemary essential oil and a Ylang-ylang essential oil advantageously allows prevent hair breakage, prevent hair loss, soothe the scalp, strengthen and densify the hair fiber and / or hair.

References 3 1. Vogt A, McElwee KJ, Blume-Peytavi U. Biology of the hair follicle. In: Blume-Peytavi U, Tosti A, Whiting DA, et al, editors. Hair growth and 5 disorders. Berlin: Springer-Verlag; 2008. p. 1-22. 2. Hanakawa Y, Matsuyoshi N, Stanley JR. Expression of desmoglein 1 compensators for genetic loss of desmoglein 3 in keratinocyte adhesion. J Invest Dermatol. 2002; 119: 27-31. 3. Rebora A, Guarrera M. Kenogen. A new phase of the hair cycle? Dermatology 2002; 205: 108-10. 4. Guarrera M, Rebora A. Kenogen in female androgenetic alopecia. A longitudinal study. Dermatology 2005; 210: 18-20. 5. Kevin J. McElwee, Rodney Sinclair Hair Physiology and Its Disorders. Drug Discovery Today: Disease Mechanisms 2008; 5: e163-el 71. 6. Oro AE, Scott MP. Splitting hairs: dissecting the roles of signaling systems in epidermal development. Cell. 1998; 95: 575-8. 7. Ito M, Yang Z, Andl T, Cui C, Kim N, Millar SE, Cotsarelis G. Wntdepend on de novo hair follicle regeneration in adult mouse skin after wounding. Nature. 2007; 447: 316-20. 8. Breitkopf T, Leung G, Yu M, Wang E., McElwee KJ. The basic science of hair biology: What are the causal mechanisms for the disordered hair follicle? Dermatol Clin. 2013 31: 1-19. 9. Lu W, Shapiro J, Yu M, Barekatain A, Lo B, Finner A, McElwee K. Alopecia areata: pathogenesis and potential for therapy. Expert Rev 25 Mol Med. 2006; 8: 1-19 10. MJ Harries, Paus R. The pathogenesis of primary cicatricial alopecias. Am Pathol. 2010; 177: 2152-62 11. Hordinsky M. Cicatricial alopecia: discoid lupus erythematosus. Dermatol Ther 2008; 21: 245-8 3026951 12. Whiting DA. Diagnosis and predictive value of horizontal sections of scalp biopsy specimens in male pattern androgenetic alopecia. J Am Acad Dermatol 1993; 28: 755-63. 13. Khaleghi S, Aziz AA, Razali N, Junit SM. Microarray analysis 5 revealed different gene expression patterns in HepG cells treated with low and high concentrations of Western Anacardium shoots. Genes Nutr. 2011 6 (4): 413-27 14. http://www.chem.agilent.com/library/usermanuals/Public/G4140- 90040_GeneExpression_OneColor_6.6.pdf 10 15. Rückert R, Lindner G, Bulfone-Paus S , Paus R. High-dose proinflammatory cytokines induce apoptosis of hair bulb keratinocytes in vivo. Br J Dermatol. 2000; 143): 1036-9 16. Philpott MP, Sanders DA, Bowen J, Kealey T (1996) Effects of interleukins, colony-stimulating factor and tumor necrosis factor on human hair follicle growth in vitro: possible role for interleukin-1 and tumor necrosis factor-alpha in alopecia areata. Br J Dermatol 135: 942-948. 17. Ito T, Ito N, Saathoff M, Bettermann A, Takigawa M, et al. (2005) Interferon is a potent inducer of catagen-like changes in cultured human anagen hair follicles. Br J Dermatol 152: 623-631. 18. Bodemer C, Peuchmaur M, Fraitaig S, Chatenoud L, Bush N, Prost Y. Role of cytotoxic T cells in chronic alopecia areata. J Invest Dermatol. 2000; 114 (1): 112-116

Claims (20)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a Cedar essential oil, Cypress essential oil, Juniper essential oil, Rosemary essential oil and Ylang-ylang essential oil. 2. Composition according to claim 1, in which Cedar essential oil is an essential oil of Cedrus atlantica. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the essential oil of Cypress is an essential oil of Cupressus sempervirens. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the essential oil of Juniper is an essential oil of Juniperus communis 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the essential oil of Rosemary is an essential oil of Rosmarinus officinalis. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the Ylang-ylang essential oil is an essential oil of Cananga odorata. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the concentration of Cedar essential oil is from 0.0000001 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 3026951 47 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the concentration of the essential oil Cypress is from 0.0000001 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 5 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the concentration of the essential oil of Juniper is between 0.0000001 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 10 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the concentration of the essential oil of rosemary is 0.0000001 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 15 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the concentration of Ylang-ylang essential oil is from 0.0000001 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 20 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being in one of the forms selected from a cream, a lotion, an oil, a balm, a mask, a spray, a shampoo and a conditioner. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being a hair cosmetic composition. 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, said composition being a topical cosmetic composition. 3026951 48 15. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for its use for the treatment of itchy scalp 5 16. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for its use for the treatment of hair fibers and / or hair. 17. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for its use for the prevention of hair loss. 18. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for its use for the prevention of hair breakage. 15 19. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for its use for the reinforcement and / or densification of the hair 20. A cosmetic hair treatment kit comprising a hair cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 and a carrier including instructions for use of the hair composition on the hair. 20. A kit according to claim 20, further comprising a hair post-treatment composition selected from a conditioner, a perm, a straightener, a hair coloring or bleaching product.