FR2986138A1 - Method for developing patronage for tailoring of e.g. garment, from measurements of individual, involves changing computer file containing parts of basic pattern corresponding to nearest size of individual determined from measurements - Google Patents

Abstract

The method involves developing a set of basic patterns in the form of a set of computer files stored in a database (4), where each pattern corresponds to a size and a type of clothing, and each pattern is developed from an assembly of items of clothing. Measurements of an individual are taken by an automatic installation (1) in the form of a cabin with a body scanner. The computer file containing parts of the basic pattern is changed corresponding to the nearest size of the individual determined from the measurements. An independent claim is also included for a system for developing a patronage for tailoring of a garment from measurements of an individual.

Description

B11-5410 1 Method and system for developing patterns for the tailoring of garments The invention relates generally to the manufacture and manufacture of tailored clothing. The invention relates, more particularly, to the manufacture and manufacture of all types of tailored clothing, shirt, jacket, pants, tailor, costume, ..., for men, women or children.

The making of a tailor-made garment is generally done in a traditional way and involves the taking of measurements of an individual, the possible realization of a pattern, then the size, the cut and the assembly of the various pieces of the garment. All these operations are generally done manually, so that the delivery time of the finished garment, from the initial measurement, are relatively long. In addition, making a quality custom-made garment is relatively expensive. To reduce manufacturing costs, some clothing suppliers offer their customers a half-measure service. The making of a half-measure garment remains essentially manual so that the time and manufacturing costs remain relatively important. The object of the invention is therefore to overcome the disadvantages of custom clothing manufacturing techniques and, in particular, to propose a method of developing patterns for making tailor-made garments that can significantly reduce costs and delays. while maintaining the quality and precision of the traditional measurement.

The object of the invention is therefore, according to a first aspect, a method of developing a pattern for the tailoring of a garment, based on the measurements of an individual, comprising the steps of: a set of basic patterns in the form of a set of computer files of patterns stored in memory, each corresponding to a size and type of clothing, and each elaborated from an assembly of pieces of clothing; taking measurements of the individual by means of an automatic measurement installation; and alteration of the computer file containing the pieces of a basic pattern corresponding to the size closest to the individual and determined from the measurements. The taking of measurements being performed automatically, including using a body scanner, and alterations of the basic pattern being made by modifying computer files, the development of the final patronage for the making of the finished garment is a particularly fast step and also allows to control that the pattern thus altered corresponds exactly to the measurements of the individual, before manufacture of the garment.

The achievement of patronage from a computer file also allows the remote transmission of the file using computer communication means and therefore without delay, to garment workshops capable of producing clothes at high rates and with high quality.

According to another characteristic of the method according to the invention, during the step of taking measurements, a report is produced containing the indication of the pattern whose size is closest to that of the measurements of the individual, and a set alteration values of the said pattern by comparing the measurements taken and corresponding characteristics of the basic pattern. When tampering with one of the pieces of the pattern, the other pieces of the basic pattern can be changed automatically so as to maintain an adjustment of the piece assembly.

It is also possible to take additional manual measurements and modify the values of the measurements according to the measurements taken manually. According to yet another characteristic of the method according to the invention, a visual representation of the individual is developed, in particular on a computer screen, the modifications to be made to said basic pattern are determined from an application of the pattern of the computer. based on said visual representation, and the alteration values of said pattern are modified according to the modifications thus determined. It is thus possible to check that the indications appearing in particular in the alteration values of the pattern developed during the step of taking measurements correspond to those which can be applied to the basic pattern to exactly match the measurements of the pattern. individual. It is also possible to modify the pieces of the basic pattern stored in memory from a comfort coefficient. According to yet another characteristic, a purchase order is prepared containing the identification of the individual and the stylistic characteristics of the garment chosen by the individual, and a computer file containing the pieces of the altered basic pattern, and transferring the order form and the computer file to a remote confectionery workshop. The invention also relates, in a second aspect, a system for developing a patronage for tailoring a garment from the measurements of an individual. This system comprises a storage server of a set of basic patterns in the form of a set of computer files each corresponding to a size and a type of clothing, and each comprising an assembly of pieces of clothing, a network of commercial premises each equipped with an automatic installation for taking measurements, and means for altering the computer file containing the pieces of a basic pattern corresponding to the size closest to the individual and determined from the measurements. According to another characteristic, the means for altering the computer file comprise means for automatically modifying at least part of the pieces of the basic pattern in response to the modification of one of the pieces of the pattern. The installation may further comprise means for developing a computer file comprising a report containing the indication of the pattern whose size is closest to that of the measurements of the individual, and a set of values of alteration of said pattern by comparison of the measurements taken and corresponding characteristics of the basic pattern. According to yet another characteristic, the installation comprises means for developing a visual representation of the individual, and means for applying the basic pattern on said visual representation, for determining the modifications to be made to said basic pattern and for modifying the patterns. alteration values according to the modifications thus determined. Other objects, features and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the following description, given solely by way of nonlimiting example, and with reference to the appended drawings, in which: FIG. 1 is a diagrammatic view of a pattern development system according to the invention; Figure 2 is a schematic view of an automatic installation of measurements; Figures 3 and 4 show, respectively, the result of taking measurements and a size scale for the determination of the base pattern closest to the measurements of the individual; Figure 5 is an example of a purchase order extract showing additional modifications to be made to the base pattern; Fig. 6 is an example of modification to be made to the basic pattern; Figure 7 is a view of a dummy for simulation of a garment test; and Figure 8 illustrates the procedure of altering the basic pattern. Referring first to Figure 1, which is a simplified schematic view of a pattern development system for the tailoring of garments.

As seen in this figure, the system is based on the implementation of a set of commercial premises L1, ... Ln to which customers are present when ordering a custom made garment. As can be seen, each of these premises is equipped with an automatic measurement installation 1, arranged in the form of a cabin equipped with a body scanner allowing, by shots, to obtain the measurements of an individual. Each measurement installation is associated with control units 2, constituted for example by microcomputers, and communicates, via a computer network R, to a remote management center 3 incorporating a database 4 in which are loaded basic patterns each corresponding to a type and size of clothing to be made.

The basic patterns stored in the database 4 are stored in the form of a set of computer files grouping, for each size, all the parts of the garment to achieve. This base of pattern 4 is made from a software brick 5, dedicated to the production of patterns and the gradation of the patterns, that is to say the declination of the patterns in the various sizes, conventionally used in the field of computer-assisted clothing. In this regard, it is possible to use, for example, the PDS software from OptiTex.

When taking measurements, the body scanner extracts, from the base of patterns 4, a pattern having the size closest to that of the individual measured, and prepares an attribution report R in the form of a computer file indicating the nearest base pattern and the differences between the measurements taken and the corresponding measurements of the basic pattern. This attribution report R is then used locally, by a designer employee, to modify each piece of the basic pattern to match the measurements of the individual.

A computer file, including the R report accompanied by a BDC purchase order including the identification of the customer and its stylistic choices, is then developed and then sent to a remote workshop A, for the actual garment making. Referring now to Figure 2, the automatic installation of measurements is, for example, provided in a C cabin dedicated to this measurement and is equipped with shooting means, such as 7 and 8, arranged for example, compared to an acquisition zone materialized by markers 9 to identify the positioning of the individual to be measured.

The cameras 7 and 8 are, for example, associated with means for generating a wall of light consisting of electronic flash units, the triggering of which is synchronized with that of the cameras. For example, there will be provided a set of shooting means arranged around the cabin, so as to acquire the three-dimensional shape of the individual and its measurements (Figure 3). In this respect, reference may be made to document FR 2 816 821 in the name of Telma Industrie. As indicated above, from the extracted measurements, the control unit 2 retrieves, in a scale of sizes previously stored in memory, for example locally or in the management center 3, the indication of the size closest to the 'individual. FIG. 4 shows an example of a scale of sizes which, for each type of garment (pants, jacket, shirt), takes the measurements of the body for each standardized size (48, 50, 52 ...). The indication of the size closest to the individual, together with the difference between the measurements taken by the body scanner and the corresponding measurements of the nearest standardized size, are stored in the attribution report R. This allocation report R is then used, by the second software brick 6, to alter the basic pattern closest to the measurements of the individual to develop a final pattern.

Note that with respect to this second software brick 6, we can use the custom-made software MODULATE of the company OptiTex complementary software "PDS" for the parametrization of the basic pattern. Referring again to FIG. 1, it can be seen that, when measurements are taken, the processing unit 2 also prepares an ORD file from the measurements taken during the measurement. This ORD file is then used by a third software brick 7 of the management center 3, to create a three-dimensional digital avatar or manikin having the morphology of the individual. In this respect, the "3D Runway Creator" tool of the OptiTex® software can be used. The designer can thus, thanks to this digital mannequin displayed on a screen of the control unit 2, try the basic pattern and see the alterations to be made to the basic pattern, and compare them with those indicated in the attribution report. R, if necessary, to modify this ratio R. We will now describe in detail the method of developing a pattern according to the invention implemented by means of the system which has just been described.

In a first step, a customer, who wishes to purchase a tailor-made garment, enters the commercial premises and presents himself to a salesman so that he can note the information concerning him in the order form, and in particular concerning his identity, contact details, ...

The stylistic choices of the customer as well as the type of garment to be made are also noted in the order form and, in particular: the fabric, the type of lining, the buttons, the bending, the type of collar or wrist, the rigidity of the collars and cuffs, the type of pockets, the color of the inside of the collar and wrist ... It should be noted that this information, which is not usually visible on the basic patterns, is entered on a separate document. FIG. 5 shows an example of a purchase order extract showing the various adjustments to be made to a standard jacket size according to the customer's choice or a comfort criterion. At the end of this phase of preparation of the purchase order, the customer enters the cabin of the measurement installation. At the end of this measurement, additional measures can be taken manually and noted on the order form. Note that when taking measurements, about 200 measurements are taken in various parts of the body. However, out of all these measures, a certain number are not exploitable or must be replaced to, for example, take into account a comfort criterion advised or requested by the individual, for example taking into account its corpulence . It will be noted, however, that about fifteen measurements taken automatically or confirmed by manual measurements may be sufficient in the context of the method according to the invention to allow the rapid development of faithful patronage. For example, the following fifteen measures are taken: stomach turn, wrist turn, shoulder length, arm length, choker, pelvis round, chest circumference, stature, waist circumference, lap under chest, waist, shoulder width to shoulder, hip circumference, shoulder slope and biceps. As indicated above, during the measurement phase, the control unit 2 retrieves from the database the indication of the size closest to the individual and prepares the attribution report R. Each measurement of base pattern is then associated with an alteration coefficient that can be changed manually according to the customer's wishes or by the designer. FIG. 6 shows an example of a software tool for modifying, for each piece of a pattern, a measurement provided by the attribution report with respect to the beating of an individual having a size of jacket of 50, and for which the measured chest circumference is 98, 174 cm.

Thus, in this example, the measured chest circumference on the garment, which consists of four pieces, respectively designated TPdosD, (Right Back Chest), TPdosG (Left Back Chest), TPdvtG (Chest In Front) Left) and TPdvtD (Right Front Chest) will need to be altered to match the client's measure. Referring to Figure 7, it will be appreciated that the ORD file constructed from the measurements of the individual is used to create a manikin on which the garment is attempted in the nearest size.

Using pressure zone verification tools, we can see the alterations to be made to this basic size and compare them with those indicated in the attribution report R. Once this step is completed, we open the second software brick 6, and the alterations of the attribution report are applied to the pattern (FIG. 8). Note that at this stage, the pattern still contains all possible options, including the neck, wrists, ... From the alteration of the basic pattern, which includes all the pieces of the basic pattern , a computer file is generated which can then be exported with the purchase order including the identification of the customer as well as all of his non-visible choices on the pattern, such as the color, the type of fabric, the buttons, for then be sent to Workshop A.

Note that during the alteration step of the basic pattern, the software is able to modify, during the alteration of one of the pieces of the pattern, all the other pieces of the pattern to maintain a precise fit of parts with each other.5

Claims (11)

REVENDICATIONS1. A method of developing a pattern for the tailoring of a garment from the measurements of an individual, characterized in that it comprises the steps of: - developing a set of basic patterns under the form of a set of computer files of patterns stored in memory (4) each corresponding to a size and a type of clothing, and each elaborated from an assembly of pieces of clothing; - taking measurements of the individual by means of an automatic installation (1) of taking measurements; and - alteration of the computer file containing the pieces of a basic pattern corresponding to the size closest to the individual and determined from the measurements. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that during the step of taking measurements, a report (R) is produced containing the indication of the pattern whose size is closest to that of the measurements of the individual. , and a set of alteration values of said pattern by comparing the measurements taken with corresponding characteristics of the basic pattern. 3. Method according to one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that during the alteration of one of the parts of the basic pattern, the other parts of the basic pattern are automatically modified so as to maintain a fitting of the assembly of the pieces. 4. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it takes a further manual measurements and changes the values of measurements according to the measurements taken manually. 5. Method according to claim 4, characterized in that a visual representation of the individual is developed, determining the modifications to be made to said basic pattern from an application of the basic pattern to said visual representation and the onmodifies the alteration values of the pattern according to the modifications thus determined. 6. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that one further modifies the basic pattern pieces stored in memory from a coefficient of comfort. 7. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that elaborates a purchase order (BDC) containing the identification of the individual and stylistic characteristics of the garment chosen by the individual and a computer file containing the pieces of the altered basic template and the order form and the computer file are sent to a remote confectionery shop. 8. System for developing a patronage for tailoring a garment, based on the measurements of an individual, characterized in that it comprises a server (4) for storing a set of patterns in the form of a set of computer files each corresponding to a size and type of clothing, and each comprising an assembly of clothing parts, a network of commercial premises (L1, ..., Ln) each equipped with an automatic installation (1) for taking measurements, and means (6) for altering the computer file comprising the pieces of a basic pattern corresponding to the size closest to an individual and determined from the measurements . 9. Installation according to claim 8, characterized in that the means for altering the computer file comprise means for automatically modifying at least part of the pieces of the basic pattern in response to the modification of one of the pieces of the pattern. 10. Installation according to one of claims 8 and 9, characterized in that it comprises means for developing a computer file comprising a report containing the indication of the pattern whose size is closest to that of the measurements of the individual, and a set of alteration values of said pattern par comparison of the measurements taken and corresponding characteristics of the basic pattern. 11. Installation according to claim 10, characterized in that it comprises means (7) for developing a visual representation of the individual, and means for applying the basic pattern on said visual representation, to determine the changes to be made to the basic pattern and to modify the alteration values according to the modifications thus determined.